As a plastic model assembler, I scan the parts before I remove them from the parts tree. After the scan had been completed, I printed the scan on my 3D printer using resin filament. If I break a model part doing model assembly or afterwards it can easily be replaced.
for the annoying prep-work for marker mode, it is useful to take some time in advance to attach the sticky markers to a thin sheet of magnetic rubber sheet like the material used for fridge magnets and these adhere well to ferrous steel metal body work, allowing you to very quickly attach and recover them for reuse. i use a pen magnet to pick them up swiftly after use instead of all the faff with picking the little blighters using finger tips. You do have to have patience in advance to cut the magnetic sheet around the little markers, but a little perseverance and intelligence will pay dividends when you realise the ease of use and re-use many times over of the magnetic markers.
Have you ever tried scanning part of the same object multiple times quickly from similar angles and averaging a point cloud from that? I used to do that when the best home scanner available was the Kinect. It definitely helped pick up finer details than a single scan should have been able to, like eyelids and lashes when scanning faces. Sometimes it appears that details get lost the longer a scanning session is
It looks to me as if you haven't removed the peel off protective covering film from the front of the device. Perhaps I need to get my eyes tested after years of self abuse but if it's still in place, could it affect the correct operation? Great review - many thx for posting this. I'm struggling to avoid another of those serious mouse accidents I seem prone to. I've got a feeling I may succumb, particularly as they available next day from Amazon with 10% discount....
How do you think this would handle dashboard panels? I'm doing custom radio installations and my Einstar hates small details like the mounting hardware on the back of the dashboard panels. I need something that will do medium to tiny detailed objects like radio knobs that the Einstar isn't built for. As always, STAY HYDRATED!
Just a thought, one wonders if scanning an accurate scale model of the mini first, then splicing it with actual scans of the full-sized mini would create the required base reference points?
I have Einstar Shinning 3D for bigger parts and car stuff, which is just great with it. Now, I'm trying to figure out should I buy Revo Mini for smaller things, which Einstar is just not meant for of go for Pop 2/3. I figure Pop is kind of middle ground, so Mini would be better choice (buttons, clips and misc. small things). Then I'd use FMD + Einstar for big things and SLA + Revo for smaller. Anyhow, great to have you review it, because use case is mostly the same as mine, so really appreciate it! Cheers!
Same thoughts here. Most objects I want to scan is fishing accessories and Model car spare parts. The pop3 is the newer model, the mini is equipped with blue Light. Does anyone know if the mini can use the same updated version of the Software?
Thanks for posting. I have been struggling with the Pop3 and learned of a few features from the video. (ie.. back button!!!) Trying to scan a front bumper / air dam and it is struggling. Going to again with that back button! Do you believe the hand-held stabilizer is necessary?
Hi Michael, I don’t think the stabiliser is needed, as most of the tracking errors come from lack of features rather than jerky movements… Try adding more features, little scrunches of masking tape can work, all over the place, it’s more work to remove them after but it does help with tracking…
Thanks for the review, really helpful. I'm looking for a multi range consumer level offering and have been considering the Revopoint Miraco. Have you had any experience with this scanner?
@@starfox_wr-45e93 pop is meant for small objects, range is meant for large. owning both will cover all objects being scanned. If you only want to buy one. then choose carefully. so many people make this mistake and then say the scanner is rubbish. Another example... If you look at shining 3d's offerings. einstar is good but small objects it struggles, you need to pair it with an einscan se or sp
thanks for the reviews. checked all of them but wondered if you had any thoughts on the ferret pro. (looking for a budget-friendly portable scanner for some motorcycle fairing-diy and bits and bobs) cheers
As someone that 3D scans vehicles for a living, from super small items all the way to HGVs, Excavators, Tractors etc, you cant get away from having to use tracking dots and scalebars if you want a scan thats useable and worthwhile in terms of quality and precision. Unless you're spending a lot of money going for a scantech trackscan or creaform version its just how it is. If you think you hate markers, try putting multiple thousands on and taking them off afterwards!
I'm looking to get a scanner for doing stuff on an hgv, what would recommend to get and you mention scalebars, could you share products and videos to give me an idea of whats needed to get best results. Thanks
@@DelBouy-lc5wx What are you wanting to scan on the HGV and for what purpose? Most home gamer scanners don't come with scale bars from what ive seen. Their main purpose isn't precision as such, more just a general "i need a model" type deal. The scanners we use at work are metrology grade used in various industries for very accurate measurement of components, pipework and mechanical items etc. Way out of budget for most people. unless they have lots of disposable income!
Amazing! One question though, why do people would want to scan a differential? I get the point for automotive industry, but in your particular case, what would you do with that 3d model?
Awesome, I'm impressed with the result, purchased the pop3 but haven't fully test it yet, but the way what are the specs of your laptop? I need to upgrade mine for a powerful one that could run the einstar in future
Is this enough of a scanner to produce a mesh file good enough to use with Fusion360 for decent automotive accuracy? For instance, if I built a one-off brake caliper mount in a custom car build, can I use this scanner to capture the finished part to produce accurate cad drawings so I can CNC replicate it later should it get damaged and need replacement?
Engine bays are a tough spot no matter what. The amount of foreground/background items means the tracking gets tough when you go around objects. My Einstar has to do some tough work especially with things like hoses, worong looms, hard/acute angles, etc...
Dude I absolutely love your content and yours is one of the very few channels that I let the adds run because I hope that it helps the channel out. However, you've moved so far from your original content that it seems that you're being a long for add for your sponsors and not looking out for your supporters. Get back to making for motorsport and put massive smiles on your supporters faces. We're rooting for you buddy but you're making it very difficult for us.
I came here because of the speeduino vids, and the individual thottle bodies and 3d printed parts. I do find 3d scanning interesting but all of these vids feel kinda the same, sure, it's been a year but only 4 vids back to find another 3d scanner testing video
I hear you and I feel the same…. without going into a huge amount of detail it’s been a tough period for me and getting these videos out is key to getting back on track… more good stuff coming
@@MakingforMotorsport buddy I'm sure that I speak for many of your supporters, we're here for you and to be able to be there to see you reach the heights that we know you can? That will be epic. Keep the faith in us as we do for you. Hell or high water, we got you.
Can you manipulate a scanned object after it's scanned? Probably a dumb question. I'm new to 3D scanning and printing. For example, let's say I scanned the same bust that you did in this video, but I wanted to put a bunch of holes in it (I'm just throwing out random ideas) that go all the way through, can I do that using Sketchup or other software?
I just so happen to have a 32gb Miraco on the way. You could adapt the pop3 to attach to your baseball cap, and suddenly you ARE THE BORG, only good instead, a good BORG. 👁👁
If you have a POP 2, is it worth upgrading to the POP 3? I assume POP Scan v5 software will work with the POP 2 so you will get the benefits from that anyway. Looking forward to the Range review.
Awesome testing looks like you really put it through its paces and tested it to the extremes of what it was designed for. Do you think it will fit into your workflow more than any of your other scanners?
(New to game development and can't code, but am trying to learn the basics by starting with the terrain) I want to make a game that looks realistic and don't want to use Assets from any Asset store, have compatibility issues and issues with possible copyright. I've been looking at the 3D scanners as a possible way to create my own assets. I was wondering if any of the revopoint scanners also picks up and creates the textures? (Hoping to be able to scan and import plants, trees, rocks, sea shells, etc.)
Because 3D scanners like this let me scan something and have a mesh model in a few minutes… something I have never managed with Photogrammetry… But CPP is new to me, any resources you would recommend?
@@MakingforMotorsportfrom what I’ve seen this scanner is giving out legacy results and the pipeline isn’t faster than loading a set of photos into Metashape for example, the solve, in fact looks worse vs time. It literally takes 5 minutes or less with Metashape once you are used to. About CPP there isn’t much about it, use a circular flash with polarized film which you can buy a sheet and cut out the donut shape yourself. Than a second CPL filter on the lens of a good mirrorless cam. Bonus: you can scan big spaces (without the polarizer flash rig) and little surfaces.
Great Video review! My one question is would this be usable to scan humans from the shoulder up? Or Does this require the Range? Trying to have my cake and eat it too by just getting the Rev Pop 3 for the small stuff but also do family busts.
Honestly...this has the same problem as every single one of revopoints scanners. What comes out of it is smoothed to hell and loses all the detail, theres nothing crisp about it. If they used the frames taken and made a photogrammetry pass on top of it and compared that to the structured light pass they'd have a great software, but they dont...and I cant write an alternative so were just screwed until someone does.
For reference, I've tried pop 2 and mini 2, the mini 2 barely gets any better detail than the pop 2, and my open scan that I printed and built to do JUST photogrammetry scans comes out absolutely WORLDS better than anything revopoo can crap out, and at a price point about 400 dollars lower.
It’s horses for courses, I know that some people get fantastic results from photogrammetry, but I’ve never managed it, primarily as I lack the patience required… and when time is money and I want functional rather than decorative results it’s had to justify the photogrammetry option.
For anyone about to say that they want to compare this scanner with the other comparison video I did last year… hold tight, it’s coming!
I would love to see comparisiong with revopoint mini.
Yes Einstar vs this is what the world wants to see.
@MakingforMotorsport awesome content! Do you have an estimate on when this will be up? :)
would you do a comparision to a kinect 360 scan setup ? :D
Einstar vs Pop3 vs Raptor vs Otter
As a plastic model assembler, I scan the parts before I remove them from the parts tree. After the scan had been completed, I printed the scan on my 3D printer using resin filament. If I break a model part doing model assembly or afterwards it can easily be replaced.
for the annoying prep-work for marker mode, it is useful to take some time in advance to attach the sticky markers to a thin sheet of magnetic rubber sheet like the material used for fridge magnets and these adhere well to ferrous steel metal body work, allowing you to very quickly attach and recover them for reuse. i use a pen magnet to pick them up swiftly after use instead of all the faff with picking the little blighters using finger tips. You do have to have patience in advance to cut the magnetic sheet around the little markers, but a little perseverance and intelligence will pay dividends when you realise the ease of use and re-use many times over of the magnetic markers.
This
Excited to see your range review. I love mine. Totally agree that the new software is a huge improvement over the old software as well.
Cheers bud, had a play with it, better for our kind of application I reckon, especially bodywork.
Gotta say this is quality content- great presenter glad I found it thank you
Great video as always! Excited to see the Range version.
Have you ever tried scanning part of the same object multiple times quickly from similar angles and averaging a point cloud from that? I used to do that when the best home scanner available was the Kinect. It definitely helped pick up finer details than a single scan should have been able to, like eyelids and lashes when scanning faces. Sometimes it appears that details get lost the longer a scanning session is
13:38 - "BUT WAIT THERE'S MORE...!!!" (best Ron Popeil voice)
😂 maybe less infomercial in my next video then!
The Einstar got a back button as well with the latest software. Very useful.
The part I struggle with is getting the mesh oriented properly in fusion to something workable in proper XYZ planes matching faces ect
Hi there, check out my video on Reverse Engineering as that has a method to do exactly that…
GOM Inspect free version!
Just a heads up, you might want to use youtube's blur edit to cover up at 3:50 ish
Good shout! 🤦♂️
It looks to me as if you haven't removed the peel off protective covering film from the front of the device. Perhaps I need to get my eyes tested after years of self abuse but if it's still in place, could it affect the correct operation?
Great review - many thx for posting this. I'm struggling to avoid another of those serious mouse accidents I seem prone to. I've got a feeling I may succumb, particularly as they available next day from Amazon with 10% discount....
I’m pretty sure I have… but having subjected myself to similar years of abuse I may just double check! 😂
Great channel! That's exhausting what i am trying to do, scan and reverse engineer parts for my bmw 😅
great review I love how we all have a item thats our benchie scan
Looking forward to your range review, might help me decide on which way to go to scan my GR Yaris
Gonna have a bash at my Beemer outside with the Range…. Hopefully it does a good job!
@@MakingforMotorsportHello, is there a way to contact you?
If you go to the channel page on TH-cam there is an address you can email.
Dave
How do you think this would handle dashboard panels? I'm doing custom radio installations and my Einstar hates small details like the mounting hardware on the back of the dashboard panels. I need something that will do medium to tiny detailed objects like radio knobs that the Einstar isn't built for. As always, STAY HYDRATED!
Great review as always. Between the pop3 and the einstar which one do you prefere (also regarding the new softwares)?
I am excited for the next scanner review.
Just a thought, one wonders if scanning an accurate scale model of the mini first, then splicing it with actual scans of the full-sized mini would create the required base reference points?
I have Einstar Shinning 3D for bigger parts and car stuff, which is just great with it. Now, I'm trying to figure out should I buy Revo Mini for smaller things, which Einstar is just not meant for of go for Pop 2/3. I figure Pop is kind of middle ground, so Mini would be better choice (buttons, clips and misc. small things). Then I'd use FMD + Einstar for big things and SLA + Revo for smaller. Anyhow, great to have you review it, because use case is mostly the same as mine, so really appreciate it! Cheers!
Same thoughts here. Most objects I want to scan is fishing accessories and Model car spare parts. The pop3 is the newer model, the mini is equipped with blue Light. Does anyone know if the mini can use the same updated version of the Software?
i have einstar too and buy mini2, now wait delivery
Thanks for posting. I have been struggling with the Pop3 and learned of a few features from the video. (ie.. back button!!!)
Trying to scan a front bumper / air dam and it is struggling. Going to again with that back button!
Do you believe the hand-held stabilizer is necessary?
Hi Michael, I don’t think the stabiliser is needed, as most of the tracking errors come from lack of features rather than jerky movements…
Try adding more features, little scrunches of masking tape can work, all over the place, it’s more work to remove them after but it does help with tracking…
Thanks for the review, really helpful. I'm looking for a multi range consumer level offering and have been considering the Revopoint Miraco. Have you had any experience with this scanner?
How -good- much better is the Range scanner?
With the current discounts it's only £60 odd more that the pop3 at the moment.
Thanks for the vids
Bare in mind they are 2 completely different scanners. which one is best for you?
@@davecoggan9619 The only major difference I can see is the accuracy and FOV. Based on that, the Range.
@@starfox_wr-45e93 pop is meant for small objects, range is meant for large. owning both will cover all objects being scanned. If you only want to buy one. then choose carefully. so many people make this mistake and then say the scanner is rubbish.
Another example... If you look at shining 3d's offerings. einstar is good but small objects it struggles, you need to pair it with an einscan se or sp
thanks for the reviews. checked all of them but wondered if you had any thoughts on the ferret pro. (looking for a budget-friendly portable scanner for some motorcycle fairing-diy and bits and bobs) cheers
Not tried the Ferret Pro, just rounding out a review of the Otter tho… Creality seem to have upped their game!
@@MakingforMotorsport Thanks, that's the bigger brother of FerretPro. I like the software update too - Looking forward to your review mate!
As someone that 3D scans vehicles for a living, from super small items all the way to HGVs, Excavators, Tractors etc, you cant get away from having to use tracking dots and scalebars if you want a scan thats useable and worthwhile in terms of quality and precision. Unless you're spending a lot of money going for a scantech trackscan or creaform version its just how it is.
If you think you hate markers, try putting multiple thousands on and taking them off afterwards!
I'm looking to get a scanner for doing stuff on an hgv, what would recommend to get and you mention scalebars, could you share products and videos to give me an idea of whats needed to get best results. Thanks
@@DelBouy-lc5wx What are you wanting to scan on the HGV and for what purpose? Most home gamer scanners don't come with scale bars from what ive seen.
Their main purpose isn't precision as such, more just a general "i need a model" type deal. The scanners we use at work are metrology grade used in various industries for very accurate measurement of components, pipework and mechanical items etc.
Way out of budget for most people. unless they have lots of disposable income!
@Section59. it's an 18t military truck. Want to scan the whole thing really but in sections so I can make stuff to fit on it.
Amazing! One question though, why do people would want to scan a differential? I get the point for automotive industry, but in your particular case, what would you do with that 3d model?
Could be used to scan attachment points and build a custom frame to hold it into a different car / swap project
Awesome, I'm impressed with the result, purchased the pop3 but haven't fully test it yet, but the way what are the specs of your laptop? I need to upgrade mine for a powerful one that could run the einstar in future
Is this enough of a scanner to produce a mesh file good enough to use with Fusion360 for decent automotive accuracy? For instance, if I built a one-off brake caliper mount in a custom car build, can I use this scanner to capture the finished part to produce accurate cad drawings so I can CNC replicate it later should it get damaged and need replacement?
cant wait for the range video
Engine bays are a tough spot no matter what. The amount of foreground/background items means the tracking gets tough when you go around objects. My Einstar has to do some tough work especially with things like hoses, worong looms, hard/acute angles, etc...
I’ve had a decent results with the Einstar, nothing published tho, but you’re right, it’s a tricky proposition!
Dude I absolutely love your content and yours is one of the very few channels that I let the adds run because I hope that it helps the channel out. However, you've moved so far from your original content that it seems that you're being a long for add for your sponsors and not looking out for your supporters. Get back to making for motorsport and put massive smiles on your supporters faces. We're rooting for you buddy but you're making it very difficult for us.
I came here because of the speeduino vids, and the individual thottle bodies and 3d printed parts. I do find 3d scanning interesting but all of these vids feel kinda the same, sure, it's been a year but only 4 vids back to find another 3d scanner testing video
I hear you and I feel the same…. without going into a huge amount of detail it’s been a tough period for me and getting these videos out is key to getting back on track… more good stuff coming
@@MakingforMotorsport buddy I'm sure that I speak for many of your supporters, we're here for you and to be able to be there to see you reach the heights that we know you can? That will be epic. Keep the faith in us as we do for you. Hell or high water, we got you.
now if creality can just get their setup sorted post processing scans might even become worth while even on their smaller budget scanners
Can you manipulate a scanned object after it's scanned? Probably a dumb question. I'm new to 3D scanning and printing. For example, let's say I scanned the same bust that you did in this video, but I wanted to put a bunch of holes in it (I'm just throwing out random ideas) that go all the way through, can I do that using Sketchup or other software?
I just so happen to have a 32gb Miraco on the way.
You could adapt the pop3 to attach to your baseball cap, and suddenly you ARE THE BORG, only good instead, a good BORG.
👁👁
If you have a POP 2, is it worth upgrading to the POP 3? I assume POP Scan v5 software will work with the POP 2 so you will get the benefits from that anyway. Looking forward to the Range review.
Definitely try the upgraded software, night and day for usability…. The hardware probably isn’t the same step up…
@@MakingforMotorsport I'll give it a try, thanks
Hello
what is the configuration and brand of your laptop?
thanks in advance
Awesome testing looks like you really put it through its paces and tested it to the extremes of what it was designed for. Do you think it will fit into your workflow more than any of your other scanners?
Thats the reviev I wanted to find ❤
(New to game development and can't code, but am trying to learn the basics by starting with the terrain) I want to make a game that looks realistic and don't want to use Assets from any Asset store, have compatibility issues and issues with possible copyright. I've been looking at the 3D scanners as a possible way to create my own assets. I was wondering if any of the revopoint scanners also picks up and creates the textures? (Hoping to be able to scan and import plants, trees, rocks, sea shells, etc.)
Great video, excellent
Why use this when cross polarization photogrammetry solves are so much more precise? True scale is also not an issue with CPP
Because 3D scanners like this let me scan something and have a mesh model in a few minutes… something I have never managed with Photogrammetry…
But CPP is new to me, any resources you would recommend?
@@MakingforMotorsportfrom what I’ve seen this scanner is giving out legacy results and the pipeline isn’t faster than loading a set of photos into Metashape for example, the solve, in fact looks worse vs time. It literally takes 5 minutes or less with Metashape once you are used to.
About CPP there isn’t much about it, use a circular flash with polarized film which you can buy a sheet and cut out the donut shape yourself. Than a second CPL filter on the lens of a good mirrorless cam. Bonus: you can scan big spaces (without the polarizer flash rig) and little surfaces.
Thanks mate
Einstar is the better choice of low budget scanners
Those do require a hefty Nvidia graphics card though; the Revopoint scanners don’t
@@crosswick when I bought an einstar, it was immediately followed by the purchase of a computer at twice the price of the scanner itself XD
Yew!!! More content!!
Stella! 👍
Great Video review! My one question is would this be usable to scan humans from the shoulder up? Or Does this require the Range? Trying to have my cake and eat it too by just getting the Rev Pop 3 for the small stuff but also do family busts.
It will work for people, in that with effort it will do the job, just the range is likely better for that particular use case….
Eihän se nyt auta tollasta sumua auton päälle laittaa :)
What would be the best scanner for scanning faces and clothes?
Love your videos!
I would recommend you check out my recently released (in the last 10mins) video on the Range…
You need the 3D scanning spray, AESUB BLUE - MATTE DISAPPEARING SPRAY FOR 3D SCANNING
Honestly...this has the same problem as every single one of revopoints scanners. What comes out of it is smoothed to hell and loses all the detail, theres nothing crisp about it. If they used the frames taken and made a photogrammetry pass on top of it and compared that to the structured light pass they'd have a great software, but they dont...and I cant write an alternative so were just screwed until someone does.
For reference, I've tried pop 2 and mini 2, the mini 2 barely gets any better detail than the pop 2, and my open scan that I printed and built to do JUST photogrammetry scans comes out absolutely WORLDS better than anything revopoo can crap out, and at a price point about 400 dollars lower.
It’s horses for courses, I know that some people get fantastic results from photogrammetry, but I’ve never managed it, primarily as I lack the patience required… and when time is money and I want functional rather than decorative results it’s had to justify the photogrammetry option.
Curse you and your video sir, now I have to buy it!