That final sentiment, about watching peeps learn as they go struck a chord with me. All the time you see YT vids with comments like "You fool, why didn't you do A B C before jumping to X Y Z" It's not helpful or encouraging to the person putting the effort in to make a video, especially when they are already on the back foot. I do wish the internet could take a huge dose of chill at times.
Thanks, I am glad you said that =D Yes, people need to remember that not everyone is an expert at everything - often people are trying to learn and kicking people whilst they learn just isn't cool.
Yep, I agree! And I know what you meant =D We have enough people on my videos saying I dont know WTF I am on about lol. They get hit with a 10 tonne ban hammer!
Hey Gadget! Not sure where else to show you this but i came across something that looks like it would make a pretty cool repair video www.ebay.com/itm/SNK-NEO-GEO-CD-console-Japan-import-system-US-seller-please-read/273451912629?epid=110703103&hash=item3fab010db5:g:wssAAOSwOuBblS2x
I really like the way you add additional info, corrections, etc when you're explaining things. I imagine it's easier during editing, but I think it adds some nice humor as well. Great video!
I would have to disagree, I've had 3 units they all died! Poor switch mode power supply! Better off with a Aoyue 474A++ Desoldering Station with mains transformer.
I would expect that the amount of soldering irons amongst viewers is higher than the amount of desoldering stations. Therefore demonstrating ways to do it manually videos makes a lot of sense. If you do regular desoldering though... a desoldering station is a good investment.
Thanks! I do have a desoldering station - a Weller one. I could have used that and it would have saved me a few minutes for sure. But as Daniël Mantione mentioned, lots of people want to generally see the cheapest easiest way to do something themselves. I will show more use of the desoldering station on some future videos though! I might also need to get something to replace the Weller as its kind of on its last legs really.
www.amazon.co.uk/Velleman-VTDESOL3-Vacuum-Soldering-Multi-Colour/dp/B005HCQRQ2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1537448688&sr=8-2&keywords=desolder+iron pretty sure this is it
Another quality video, nice to see youtubers helping each other out, I nearly bought some of the vacuums from the same seller as he did just because I wanted a go at fixing some myself, unfortunately they sold out whilst pondering where I’d put them whilst repairing them :(
Hehehe =D The same thing happened to me! We were probably both watching the same vacuums on eBay, and whoever won the auction was probably hunting them after watching Vinces video lol :o)
How nice of you!! I'm actually following Vince's channel as well and I like his videos a lot (of course I'm a long-time subscriber of yours in the first place :D).
Man, original Sonic the Hedgehog carts are dropping like flies. I’ve encountered a few myself. Obviously, Sega made a disproportionate amount of those compared to most of their games. This was their first hit of that caliber, so it was their first experience ramping up production. You can find carts from Thailand, Taiwan, Japan, Mexico, etc. It seems that some of their ROM producers weren’t up to snuff. In particular, whoever made the one with the large circular impression in the middle and a groove running the entire length for marking the PIN1 side. Instead of relying on extra software like a HEX editor, you can use the command line for duplicating and concatenating two copies of the ROM together in one file. You use the COPY command with the /B switch (binary) and basically use the + symbol to combine the same file twice. IIRC, “COPY /B FILEIN.BIN+FILEIN.BIN FILEOUT.BIN”
I watched that video last week where he got Sensible Soccer to work and then got stumped on PBoy, cool that you ended up helping him. I'd like to get an EPROM programmer to use with my Arcade cabinets. Thanks for the vid
Great vid 👍 I have a back log of repairs 😞 Atari 2600, Jaguar, 3x c64 boards and an A500 board with bad Battery leakage, with these videos I’m learning a lot, thanks for your great work 👍
Will do, but have done any vids on TH-cam just watch and learn, I must get cracking on with them as parts are getting harder to source, also got a double FDD external drives for an Amiga not working and no information on the internet about it 😞 and a side expansion pcb with 4mb Simms and a SCII to sd card converter to play with. Just keep up the great work, cos your help loads of people out there restoring these great computers 👍
Nice selection of EPROM burners and adapters there Chris, I use a TL866-A for everyday EPROM burning but I also have a old Parallel port Needhams EMP-20 EPROM burner it's great as it has a 48 pin ZIF socket and can burn those higher (40+) pin EPROM's, it can also program gals and proms also. I'm already subbed to My Mate Vince's channel.
Just been watching the vince video I'm amazed he got that game running at all, he made a right mess of the board. I think he's gotten a lot better since then though.
Been watching a lot of your retro repair video's and now I've got the retro bug again. Just went and bought a ZX Spectrum +2 (Not +2a), the cassette drive doesn't work but I have a DivMMC to use on it.
Thanks for this vlog gadget it has explained a lot I have never messed around with cartridges and this vid has given me confidence to give it a go. Nice vid 😁😁😁Kim😁😁😁
At around 8:15 you mention using solder to de-solder, which works by the way, But for the most it works best if the solder has a flux core or set of Flux cores "Multicore Solder" to it, "Flux is a good heat conductor so a flux multicore works best for amalgamating high and low temp solders to help expediate desoldering at lower temperatures" Mind you most electronics are assembled with low temp solder these days, so a heat station, flux and either a solder wick or solder sucker is all that one needs, even for devices old as the game cartridge here, As its been found the ceramic like substance that chips are made of take quiet a while to actually transfer heat internally "Just bare in mind chips are made up of a ceramic like substance much like the space shuttles insulative heat tiles" And I do stress much like" so when one heats up "around" key word being "around" the chips for the most it takes quite a while for the heat to slowly seep inward and thus do damage .. I always smirk when I watch newbs when they first do a heat station de-soldering, as it seems they don't realise how insulative the chips ceramic encasing really is, to which I always blow on the chips ASAP once removed or installed, unlike the many pros and tinkerers I have thus far observed that just dont bother about doing that, I see it that, the quicker you cool em down the les heat eventually ends up slowly seeping to vital silicon, gallium aluminium layers that make up an integrated circuit..
For this chip I used a Willems programmer with 16 bit adapter board. But something like the GQ4X with the adapter board should work too:- www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PRG-113-GQ-4X-Willem-Programmer-ADP-054-16-Bit-EPROM40-42pin-Tool-007-UV-Eraser/291805708840?hash=item43f0f9c228:g:HeMAAOSwclVbq-61:rk:16:pf:0
27C800 is an 8 megabit chip, which can be organized either as 1MB*8bit or 512kB*16bit. If EPROM is bigger than image, why not add a switch to excessive address line(s) and put some more images on 1 EPROM. Instead of UV-EPROMs you may also use Flash EPROMs (like 29F800), as they were also JEDEC compatible.
Absolutely! Yes, possible to use the TSOP versions of those chips too with a replacement PCB. OSH Park have a design on there for a replacement Megadrive card which supports both the DIP and TSOP versions.
Great video. Been coming back to look at these again allot since getting a programmer. Having trouble at the moment with Shadow Dancer (512), starts ok but soft resets once you press a button. Goes into attract mode fine if you leave it alone. Strange. Changed the cap and beeped out the pcb. Have some C800 chips so I'll try the floating pins trick next. Thanks again for the videos.
Did you verify that the ROM image works (in an emulator) and that it matches what is programmed onto the chip? Was the board a 256K board or a 512K board?
@@GadgetUK164 Original Mask Rom , just about to dump it, setting up the ZD-915 at the mo to de-solder. The cartridge just arrived today. Had the box and the manual but gave the original copy to a friend a few years back. Will let you know how it goes.
Swapped original mask ROM for EPROM and even tried different cart PCB combinations. Same behavior. Have a Sonic 1 on the Old Shadow Dancer board and works fine. Testing on my modded Mega Drive 1 with the Arduino Nano MD++ inside. Will try it out on one of my other MD's over the weekend. Have a good feeling it might be the mod. Will burn a Japanese version and test that too. Strange but having allot of fun messing about with my new toy.
Shadow Dancer, I picked up an original cart last week. Popped it into the console and ever time I pushed any button ( including D-pad) on the start screen it resets. Goes into attract/demo mode fine. So I cleaned it with an eraser and some isoprop, no difference. Next I changed the cap, no difference. After that I burned a fresh copy to a 27C800 and soldered that to the PCB, same behavior. As a test, I put an original Sonic mask rom on the Shadow Dancer PCB, worked fine. I'll test out the original shadow dancer cart tonight on one of my other MD consoles. If it works, I'll know that it may have some thing to do with my recently modded PAL MD. Might also try burning a Japanese version of the rom and see if that behaves the same. It's the only game in my collection giving me any trouble. All my other PAL & Genesis games work fine. Don't have an everdrive but it would be interesting to test shadow dancer out on that. I strongly suspect my mod work. The mod allows you to change region and rest the console from the control pad. There could be some thing about how Shadow Dancer handles inputs that conflicts with the mod. Here's a link to the MOD github.com/SukkoPera/MegaDrivePlusPlus I'll get the soldering tools out after dinner and I'll record a video of my adventures. The video should do a better job of explaining things then I can. Sorry for the essay Gadget.
Yeah, that's one problem and the reason I ended up with 4 or 5 EPROM programmers lol. There's always that one or two chip types that any particular device just happens to not cover.
hello there, i am making a repro of contra hard corps, but i cant make it work. i byte swapped the rom and all. The Rom is a 2MB size and i put into a 1MB PCB. since is the same dip 42 pin IC. Do i need to rewire something on the pcb? thanks
You need to connect a wire from the A19 pin 42 on the chip, to A20 on the cart edge. In this video I connected A18 from the chip to A19 on the cart edge. So A20 on the cart edge goes to A19 on the chip (lift the A19 pin on the chip to make sure its not fed ground or VCC from the board).
@@GadgetUK164i put the eprom in a 2MB donor and it worked, i then checked both pcbs and is exactly what you said. I cut the trace on the board instead lifting the pin, and then i ran a wire to that pin. I will leave the contra in its new donor but i wil prep this 1MB pcbs for the 2MB eproms. Thank you for the help!
@@GadgetUK164 If Im not bother too much about this topic, i am actually trying to make a Sonic 3 complete repro with save feature. Unfortunally the info is so poor about Mega Drive Repros. I am looking a article on 8bitplus where a user stated that it can use a 2 IC donor for that game. Although the rom must be split into 512kb pieces and them mount in 2 16Mbit eproms. Do you a good info source about this? Thank you once again!
Yep, that will work too =D I often use a hex editor as with other ROMs there's nearly always a header that needs removing too and its easy to just do it in the hex editor.
I also had trouble with 27C800s I got from China. Some couldn't be erased, some could but failed programming like yours. The ones that refused to be erased should be left longer in UV Eraser. I read somewhere (datasheet?) that it's recommended 50+ minutes. As a general rule, the higher the capacity of an EPROM, the longer the erasing process.
They seemed to erase OK but then fail on a specific location when writting. I suspect they need more erasure time, or I might have to play with the speed / timing settings to try and slow / speed up the program.
I'll have to check out the original vid. I always thought the problem with Tengen Sega Genesis carts weren't with the ROM chips but with the crummy cartridge PCBs they used. It's as if they selected whichever PCB manufacturer Activision selected for their Atari 5200 cartridge PCBs. I'd imagine anyone still wanting to use Tengen cartridges - instead of an EverDrive - would want to buy up as many disposable Sega Sports cartridges for $0.50 - or cheaper - and then de-solder those ROM chips and install the Tengen ROM chips in their place. Makes me wonder if installing a socket would take up too much room inside the cartridge shell...
Vince puts some good videos together, kudos for helping him.
For sure! And thanks =D
That final sentiment, about watching peeps learn as they go struck a chord with me. All the time you see YT vids with comments like "You fool, why didn't you do A B C before jumping to X Y Z" It's not helpful or encouraging to the person putting the effort in to make a video, especially when they are already on the back foot. I do wish the internet could take a huge dose of chill at times.
Thanks, I am glad you said that =D Yes, people need to remember that not everyone is an expert at everything - often people are trying to learn and kicking people whilst they learn just isn't cool.
Just to be clear, I was not implying that Vince's viewers were replying with that sentiment.
Yep, I agree! And I know what you meant =D We have enough people on my videos saying I dont know WTF I am on about lol. They get hit with a 10 tonne ban hammer!
Gadge, you have no bloody clue. Please fit your cats with an anti static collar....etc.
My Mate Vince (Follow Up Video - Testing the EPROM) - th-cam.com/video/G51FDB2znC8/w-d-xo.html
My Mate Vince (Original Megadrive Cart Repair Video) - th-cam.com/video/mAPBLOxOkQE/w-d-xo.html
Byte Swap Utility (Win XP, 2000, 7, 8, 10) - www.dropbox.com/s/iox0kxreszv63ht/ByteSwap.zip?dl=0
Hey Gadget! Not sure where else to show you this but i came across something that looks like it would make a pretty cool repair video www.ebay.com/itm/SNK-NEO-GEO-CD-console-Japan-import-system-US-seller-please-read/273451912629?epid=110703103&hash=item3fab010db5:g:wssAAOSwOuBblS2x
I really like the way you add additional info, corrections, etc when you're explaining things. I imagine it's easier during editing, but I think it adds some nice humor as well. Great video!
Thanks!! Much appreciated =D
You made my mate vice happy, and in turn you made me happy. I thank you good sir. 👍👍
Thanks =D
I can't recommend a desoldering station highly enough, e.g. ZD-985. Amazed how much repair work you get done using those manual solder suckers!
I would have to disagree, I've had 3 units they all died! Poor switch mode power supply! Better off with a Aoyue 474A++ Desoldering Station with mains transformer.
I would expect that the amount of soldering irons amongst viewers is higher than the amount of desoldering stations. Therefore demonstrating ways to do it manually videos makes a lot of sense. If you do regular desoldering though... a desoldering station is a good investment.
Thanks! I do have a desoldering station - a Weller one. I could have used that and it would have saved me a few minutes for sure. But as Daniël Mantione mentioned, lots of people want to generally see the cheapest easiest way to do something themselves. I will show more use of the desoldering station on some future videos though! I might also need to get something to replace the Weller as its kind of on its last legs really.
If your talking cheap, Amazon has one thats a manual pump integrated onto a desolder iron. Cost me 9 bucks and It works great (so far).
www.amazon.co.uk/Velleman-VTDESOL3-Vacuum-Soldering-Multi-Colour/dp/B005HCQRQ2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1537448688&sr=8-2&keywords=desolder+iron pretty sure this is it
Another quality video, nice to see youtubers helping each other out, I nearly bought some of the vacuums from the same seller as he did just because I wanted a go at fixing some myself, unfortunately they sold out whilst pondering where I’d put them whilst repairing them :(
Hehehe =D The same thing happened to me! We were probably both watching the same vacuums on eBay, and whoever won the auction was probably hunting them after watching Vinces video lol :o)
How nice of you!! I'm actually following Vince's channel as well and I like his videos a lot (of course I'm a long-time subscriber of yours in the first place :D).
Thanks =D
Man, original Sonic the Hedgehog carts are dropping like flies. I’ve encountered a few myself. Obviously, Sega made a disproportionate amount of those compared to most of their games. This was their first hit of that caliber, so it was their first experience ramping up production. You can find carts from Thailand, Taiwan, Japan, Mexico, etc. It seems that some of their ROM producers weren’t up to snuff. In particular, whoever made the one with the large circular impression in the middle and a groove running the entire length for marking the PIN1 side.
Instead of relying on extra software like a HEX editor, you can use the command line for duplicating and concatenating two copies of the ROM together in one file. You use the COPY command with the /B switch (binary) and basically use the + symbol to combine the same file twice. IIRC, “COPY /B FILEIN.BIN+FILEIN.BIN FILEOUT.BIN”
I watched that video last week where he got Sensible Soccer to work and then got stumped on PBoy, cool that you ended up helping him. I'd like to get an EPROM programmer to use with my Arcade cabinets. Thanks for the vid
=D
Great vid 👍 I have a back log of repairs 😞 Atari 2600, Jaguar, 3x c64 boards and an A500 board with bad Battery leakage, with these videos I’m learning a lot, thanks for your great work 👍
=D Let us know how you get on with a YT video! =D
Will do, but have done any vids on TH-cam just watch and learn, I must get cracking on with them as parts are getting harder to source, also got a double FDD external drives for an Amiga not working and no information on the internet about it 😞 and a side expansion pcb with 4mb Simms and a SCII to sd card converter to play with. Just keep up the great work, cos your help loads of people out there restoring these great computers 👍
Yes! Was just wondering when you'd have a new video up. Good stuff dude.
I've got a mate called Vince, said I should subscribe.
Hehe, thanks for subscribing =D
thanks for helping vince
Thanks and no worries =D
Nice selection of EPROM burners and adapters there Chris, I use a TL866-A for everyday EPROM burning but I also have a old Parallel port Needhams EMP-20 EPROM burner it's great as it has a 48 pin ZIF socket and can burn those higher (40+) pin EPROM's, it can also program gals and proms also. I'm already subbed to My Mate Vince's channel.
Thanks mate =D I need to add a TL866 to my collection - I've heard nothing but good things about it!
Thanks very much for helping Vince. Subscribed and I look forward to seeing more videos
Thanks for the sub =D
Thanks!
I came from my mate Vinces channel and I subscribed
Thanks, very much appreciated =D And thanks to Vince =D
Fantastic! Lovely to see a cooperation video or like helping another youtuber. Watching his video now. Which EEPROM programmer are you using?
Thanks my friend =D In this video I used the Willem one, its 5 or so years old now and is the Parallel port version, but there is a USB version.
Great video, with great explanations! Thanks!
Amazing repair video as always
Informative vid. Not that you need another programmer, but have you ever tried the TL-866? Just curious about your thoughts on it if you have used it.
I've heard good things about the TL-866 - I just don't have one lol
Yeah, I'm pretty sure your programmer collection has you covered.
Just been watching the vince video I'm amazed he got that game running at all, he made a right mess of the board.
I think he's gotten a lot better since then though.
Yes, Vince has come on leaps and bounds for sure!
Thanks! Never knew how to clean one of those desolder pumps mines probably a mess in there.
Been watching a lot of your retro repair video's and now I've got the retro bug again. Just went and bought a ZX Spectrum +2 (Not +2a), the cassette drive doesn't work but I have a DivMMC to use on it.
Vince is my best mate! 👍😂
"My Best Mate Vince" =D
Subbed to his channel great guy .
Thanks =D
Thanks for this vlog gadget it has explained a lot I have never messed around with cartridges and this vid has given me confidence to give it a go. Nice vid 😁😁😁Kim😁😁😁
Thanks =D
At around 8:15 you mention using solder to de-solder, which works by the way, But for the most it works best if the solder has a flux core or set of Flux cores "Multicore Solder" to it, "Flux is a good heat conductor so a flux multicore works best for amalgamating high and low temp solders to help expediate desoldering at lower temperatures" Mind you most electronics are assembled with low temp solder these days, so a heat station, flux and either a solder wick or solder sucker is all that one needs, even for devices old as the game cartridge here, As its been found the ceramic like substance that chips are made of take quiet a while to actually transfer heat internally "Just bare in mind chips are made up of a ceramic like substance much like the space shuttles insulative heat tiles" And I do stress much like" so when one heats up "around" key word being "around" the chips for the most it takes quite a while for the heat to slowly seep inward and thus do damage ..
I always smirk when I watch newbs when they first do a heat station de-soldering, as it seems they don't realise how insulative the chips ceramic encasing really is, to which I always blow on the chips ASAP once removed or installed, unlike the many pros and tinkerers I have thus far observed that just dont bother about doing that, I see it that, the quicker you cool em down the les heat eventually ends up slowly seeping to vital silicon, gallium aluminium layers that make up an integrated circuit..
Thanks, I use multicore solder =D
You just got another subsciber thanks to Vince :)
Thanks =D Welcome to the channel!!
watched the vid from vince other day. he needs to get an eprom reader/burner
I came here from Vince's channel. Sub.
Thank you for the sub =D
Which eprom programmer do you use? What adapter board was that ontop?
For this chip I used a Willems programmer with 16 bit adapter board. But something like the GQ4X with the adapter board should work too:- www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PRG-113-GQ-4X-Willem-Programmer-ADP-054-16-Bit-EPROM40-42pin-Tool-007-UV-Eraser/291805708840?hash=item43f0f9c228:g:HeMAAOSwclVbq-61:rk:16:pf:0
Cool channel. Instant sub.
Thanks =D Cheers for the sub =D
27C800 is an 8 megabit chip, which can be organized either as 1MB*8bit or 512kB*16bit. If EPROM is bigger than image, why not add a switch to excessive address line(s) and put some more images on 1 EPROM. Instead of UV-EPROMs you may also use Flash EPROMs (like 29F800), as they were also JEDEC compatible.
Absolutely! Yes, possible to use the TSOP versions of those chips too with a replacement PCB. OSH Park have a design on there for a replacement Megadrive card which supports both the DIP and TSOP versions.
Great stuff dude
Why not use a 27C400??
Indeed! I just didn't have one =D
Great video. Been coming back to look at these again allot since getting a programmer. Having trouble at the moment with Shadow Dancer (512), starts ok but soft resets once you press a button. Goes into attract mode fine if you leave it alone. Strange. Changed the cap and beeped out the pcb. Have some C800 chips so I'll try the floating pins trick next. Thanks again for the videos.
Did you verify that the ROM image works (in an emulator) and that it matches what is programmed onto the chip? Was the board a 256K board or a 512K board?
@@GadgetUK164 Original Mask Rom , just about to dump it, setting up the ZD-915 at the mo to de-solder. The cartridge just arrived today. Had the box and the manual but gave the original copy to a friend a few years back. Will let you know how it goes.
Swapped original mask ROM for EPROM and even tried different cart PCB combinations. Same behavior. Have a Sonic 1 on the Old Shadow Dancer board and works fine. Testing on my modded Mega Drive 1 with the Arduino Nano MD++ inside. Will try it out on one of my other MD's over the weekend. Have a good feeling it might be the mod. Will burn a Japanese version and test that too. Strange but having allot of fun messing about with my new toy.
Sonic is 256K, Shadow Dancer is 512K. What game are you trying to put onto the PCB?
Shadow Dancer, I picked up an original cart last week. Popped it into the console and ever time I pushed any button ( including D-pad) on the start screen it resets.
Goes into attract/demo mode fine. So I cleaned it with an eraser and some isoprop, no difference. Next I changed the cap, no difference.
After that I burned a fresh copy to a 27C800 and soldered that to the PCB, same behavior.
As a test, I put an original Sonic mask rom on the Shadow Dancer PCB, worked fine.
I'll test out the original shadow dancer cart tonight on one of my other MD consoles. If it works, I'll know that it may have some thing to do with my recently modded PAL MD.
Might also try burning a Japanese version of the rom and see if that behaves the same.
It's the only game in my collection giving me any trouble. All my other PAL & Genesis games work fine. Don't have an everdrive but it would be interesting to test shadow dancer out on that. I strongly suspect my mod work. The mod allows you to change region and rest the console from the control pad. There could be some thing about how Shadow Dancer handles inputs that conflicts with the mod. Here's a link to the MOD github.com/SukkoPera/MegaDrivePlusPlus
I'll get the soldering tools out after dinner and I'll record a video of my adventures. The video should do a better job of explaining things then I can. Sorry for the essay Gadget.
How about the TL866? cheap and works great.
Yes! I have that on my wish list already =D
The GQ4X is a great device but it doesn't do GAL's. Think I paid around £100 with 16bit adapter.
I also have one of those dodgy EPROM erasers :)
Yeah, that's one problem and the reason I ended up with 4 or 5 EPROM programmers lol. There's always that one or two chip types that any particular device just happens to not cover.
hello there, i am making a repro of contra hard corps, but i cant make it work. i byte swapped the rom and all. The Rom is a 2MB size and i put into a 1MB PCB. since is the same dip 42 pin IC. Do i need to rewire something on the pcb? thanks
You need to connect a wire from the A19 pin 42 on the chip, to A20 on the cart edge. In this video I connected A18 from the chip to A19 on the cart edge. So A20 on the cart edge goes to A19 on the chip (lift the A19 pin on the chip to make sure its not fed ground or VCC from the board).
@@GadgetUK164i put the eprom in a 2MB donor and it worked, i then checked both pcbs and is exactly what you said. I cut the trace on the board instead lifting the pin, and then i ran a wire to that pin. I will leave the contra in its new donor but i wil prep this 1MB pcbs for the 2MB eproms. Thank you for the help!
@@GadgetUK164 If Im not bother too much about this topic, i am actually trying to make a Sonic 3 complete repro with save feature. Unfortunally the info is so poor about Mega Drive Repros. I am looking a article on 8bitplus where a user stated that it can use a 2 IC donor for that game. Although the rom must be split into 512kb pieces and them mount in 2 16Mbit eproms. Do you a good info source about this? Thank you once again!
does it have to be IPA?, or can you use bitter? LOL.
LOL :o)
Have a sub from me mate! I'm so glad to see my favourite Console from my childhood getting the love it deserves!
Thanks =D Welcome to the channel, I hope you find something useful or interesting here =D
You should still be able to use good old *copy /b file1.bin + file1.bin file2.bin* to double up a copy.
Yep, that will work too =D I often use a hex editor as with other ROMs there's nearly always a header that needs removing too and its easy to just do it in the hex editor.
Oh yeah, there is that in some of them.
I also had trouble with 27C800s I got from China. Some couldn't be erased, some could but failed programming like yours. The ones that refused to be erased should be left longer in UV Eraser. I read somewhere (datasheet?) that it's recommended 50+ minutes. As a general rule, the higher the capacity of an EPROM, the longer the erasing process.
They seemed to erase OK but then fail on a specific location when writting. I suspect they need more erasure time, or I might have to play with the speed / timing settings to try and slow / speed up the program.
All Vince needs to know is to try putting it in and out of the slot about 20 times...
=D
Maybe instead of wd40 you can use Balistal usually used for firearms. Stuff works great for everything tho!
Great idea lol! Although I imagine the secret services in the UK taking a particular interest in me if I start buying gun lubrication liquid lol =D
HATED THIS... Only 23m ? :p this is cool
Visitor from vince.
=D
👍
0:17 are you taking the piss? 17 seconds in to a 23 minute video, "a really short video"? That's longer than most American sitcom episodes.
You're new here, aren't you?
Far from it ;)
LOL!!! Well, in fairness - at the intro I thought it would be 5 minutes long. It just ended up running away lol!
Hehe, StuRoRo is one of my oldest long term viewers!
This PC -> XP (D:)
😂😂😂
LOL :o) It's actually a Win 10 machine! I just happen to have an XP drive that I can boot into!
@@GadgetUK164 Yeah, I figured that out, but the D: emoji next to the XP drive made me chuckle :D
I'm guessing you need XP for the EPROM programmers.
I'll have to check out the original vid. I always thought the problem with Tengen Sega Genesis carts weren't with the ROM chips but with the crummy cartridge PCBs they used. It's as if they selected whichever PCB manufacturer Activision selected for their Atari 5200 cartridge PCBs. I'd imagine anyone still wanting to use Tengen cartridges - instead of an EverDrive - would want to buy up as many disposable Sega Sports cartridges for $0.50 - or cheaper - and then de-solder those ROM chips and install the Tengen ROM chips in their place. Makes me wonder if installing a socket would take up too much room inside the cartridge shell...