I have found about a dozen Proof coins in my change or coin roll hunting. Someone robbed grandpa's coin collection. I don't crack open proof sets but I do mint sets if I have extras to fill holes or upgrade my albums.
Man I have so many proof sets I don't have the time to go through all of them. I even have quite a few from the 50's & 60's that have never been opened yet! Thanks for sharing Daniel always good Information sir I will be looking for some of the examples you just spoke of.
Hello Daniel, It is all up to you the individual on his coins. Proofs are nice if you know a little about them. MS 68-70 Coin All day long. MS67 maybe and so on. Keep the videos coming. Take care.
i,m starting to collect these, starting with a 39, 42, 64, are the ones i am looking to start with, nothing special just a proof set, great info, be strong, be safe, and be blessed
I crack any proof set 1968 onwards that I have not cracked before. I need the coins for my year mint set. I handle them by the edge with coin safe gloves, and I place them into 2x2s that then get placed into three ring binders. I find that this method is the sweet spot between protection, organization, and display.
For early modern proofs, the coins were not sold as sets but individually provided. Thus, the mintages of all denominations per year are different with the cents and nickels being more plentiful than dimes, quarter and halves, as you might expect, in the period from 1936 through 1942. The boxed sets from 1950 through 1955 were individually wrapped coins in small square boxes, and I believe they could only be purchased as sets, but the coins were easy to separate because only a staple held the 5 individually wrapped cellophane flips together. With 1955 came the flat pack with the set in cellophane (5 contiguous coin pouches in one flat wrap), mailed in a manila envelope. (To me, it seems the '55 flat packs are much more plentiful than '55 boxed sets -- so I think the boxes must have been phased out fairly early in the year -- but the boxes demand no additional value as far as I can tell.) The special mint sets from 1965-1967 were in a hard plastic holder. With 1968 came the 'S'-era proofs also coming in hard plastic packaging but of a different arrangement than the special mint sets. The hard plastic holder in various forms has remained, of course, to this day. Anyone lucky enough to find just about any proof set of entirely strong cameo coins from 1950-1964 is enormously lucky. I have maybe one DCAM quarter and one DCAM half in all my originally packaged proof sets from those years. I think the plastic-degradation discoloring of coins is really much more serious in the mint sets from 1947 into the early '50's, but time will tell. When you mentioned crack-outs, I thought you were going to talk more about the hard-plastic sets more. In the years around the change of millennium, I had heard that dealers were cracking up sets at a furious rate because of the memorabilia demand at the time (1999-2001) and I am pretty sure that originally packaged proof sets are much scarcer from those years than may be suspected. As a collector, to cut up sets on a mere hope that a grading service will grant an MS-67 Cameo on a coin is just not worth it although I can see the motivation. Cutting up or cracking up proof sets is like loosing virginity -- an irreversible action . I think I will leave my virgins in their original condition and let time enhance their scarcity, as long as they don't grow ugly.
I have a 1964 proof set none of the coins, have an S mint mark I haven’t been able to decide whether to crack it open and send it off for grading or to leave it as a whole. Any suggestions?
With all the talk about physical silver I decided to go back and look at my collection (I still enjoy coins thought I don't collect anymore). I have a surprising amount of silver. I have some proof sets but those were never my collecting focus. Much of the silver and proof coins I have I have because I like them. They have no great collector rarity value. I still think the 1982 Washington half is a beautiful modern coin. It's just a nicely made, well struck, coin with actual relief (as opposed to more recent circulation coins that are so flat an un-interesting.) I have a nice circulation strike Franklin half collection in AU or BU condition. Wonderful coins! I can see why they attact money in high grade proof. But I can't bring myself to break up proof sets.
Modern commemorative half’s are also ignored and have some really low mintages. Do you think there is any potential for these to be sleepers down the line?
Christopher Simpson Coins that are dormant in value. Sleepers meaning they could be “sleeping” at the moment and wake up in value at a later time. Hope that helps.
@@christophersimpson3642 think of it like , you go to the drag races and 2 cars pull up to race , a corvette and an old 1976 station wagon. well you just know the vette will win but you don't what the station wagon is running for a motor. they race and the station wagon wins. the station wagon is a sleeper, it does't look fast to anyone. with coins it's the same way some coins don't get much attention when they come out but after a few yews all of a sudden everyone whats one and the price starts to go up.
What is condition grade? 🤷🏽♂️ BTW, do you have USMC commemorative coins? I thought that I saw them on one of your videos but now I can’t find it. I’m trying to find a few USMC coins for a couple of friends and myself who joined the Corps together. Our enlistment date is coming up soon. I’d appreciate any leads. Thanks my friend.
Great video you told me before people don't submit because they are afraid they won't make the grade. I am not worried as I am pretty sure the 1936 to 42 and 50 to 64 will all get at least a 63 grade. As I said before, some have toning that I think should be restored. As for 68 to 73 and then modern after that, self grading to find a pf70 is hard. What makes a coin a 70 from a 68 to 69 is exactly as you said. A GAMBLR for what the grading companies will say. I have checked and rechecked the 36 through 73, there are some nickles, dimes and quarters that are close to cameo but no DCAM, no no S, no varieties. My plan is to conserve and grade the 36 to 42, 50 to 64 as they are in cello or capital holders. These are the best chance to become valuable but I will do the whole set penny through half so as to keep in tact. This is an investment to protect and conserve the coins. Amazing what a coin picks up in an album, toning and blotches. Now let's heal from this pandemic so the coin shops and shows can resume. I was hoping to go to the Dallas one. Every stay safe plesse.
I am thinking about buying some BU CC Morgan common date to stack silver to try to take advantage of an increase in the short-term price of silver, should these be grades?
I inherited a set from 1990 pobjoy mint of 3 QE2 black stamp coins. Two have gold edges. They are in the box but there isn't any paperwork. Where should I go to learn about them besides the mint website? They don't appear to have ever been opened. So shiny!
Two clad Washington quarter proof issues that I would recommend in 68-69 DCAM; 1968-S and 1971-S. Both are incredibly tough to find with true deep cameo surfaces.
The 1936 ain't cheap though, especially if you have the problem-free half, dime, and nickel coins in there. The quarter and cent are a little less desirable but still pretty expensive even in average grade. But you're right about the current value of the 1936. It simply hasn't kept up with inflation and was really worth more at times in the past.
Morning Daniel!🍵 I guess coin set cracking isn't as offensive as coin melting, but I am glad I am not one of those mint employees who meticulously assembled them in the first place, wondering what journey they would travel on in the future!!
I’ve been buying US Mint 1959-64 proof sets and P & D Uncirculated Silver sets before the prices are too far gone. I’ve paid $75 for the last 1958 Proof set a few months ago. Please understand that the same thing was $20 3-4 years ago. I’ve noticed the prices rising on the 1960-64 as well. I’ve acquired a couple hundred Silver Proof Sets with original COA and Envelopes. I’ve got around the same amount of 1960-64 US Mint P&D Uncirculated silver coins sets. I’ve been pondering whether to keep them in the Mint cellophane or move them into something more substantial. I have kept them in a climate controlled environment and I personally inspect them every year. I haven’t noticed any damage. JM Bullion has called a few times actually asking to buy them. At this point, I might sell.
Would you recommend cracking open proof sets and putting the coins in tubes or keeping them in the OGP, because a lot of them over time, tone and become milky, and even get spotted?
I'm getting rid of my proof and uncirculated sets that don't have silver, coin dealers won't give you anything for them. It's gotten to where I have no more room in my safe for the silver I am buying. I have gone from a collector to an investor to some extent. Clad proofs holding no silver look pretty but with few exceptions, worth no more than the change in your piggy bank.
Good video on proof sets. Is 2019 the first year the U.S. Mint started minting .999% silver coins? So would the first year proof set 2019 kept together be of more value then breaking it open?
They have silver quarters starting in 99 with the state ones. I have thousands. But they are same as junk silver to me. The content is more than the numismatic value. I might be wrong but I bought them at silver price at the time
I'm a hobbyist so I'm not looking to get rich by cracking open sets and pilfering them. I think it's a travesty that it's been done so massively. Alot of older sets are becoming rare
Mr.Malone. Laymans terms...you have a PCGS GRADED MS 70 SET. EACH COIN GRADED MS 70. DO YOU SELL THE SET...OR EACH COIN SEPARATE. MS DEEP CAM. LIMITED 700 SETS
Daniel, The other reason people crack open Proof sets is for filling their Dansco albums with the particular coins that they collect. A lot of collectors specialize in only one or two denominations of coin. Lincoln Cents are very popular with collectors, Roosevelt dimes not as much. So you buy the set crack it open, keep the coins you like/collect and sell the ones you don't. Voila, you just saved/made money and filled the hole in your album too. I collect the early Silver Proof coins 1940-'59 and can tell you from years of hunting that there are a LOT of loose coins out there and quite a few of them that are not worth buying because of poor strikes, over-dipping, improper storage and general mishandling.
@@CoinHELPu I was typing as I was listening, I did delete another comment I had that you did mention in the video. Whoops I guess I missed that one...My Bad
Playing the slabbing game is a way to make money as you show. But the very sad part is if the companies ever start becoming legitimate in how they grade by using technology with repeatable results, there could be a Beanie Baby type crash! Those prices being paid are not for the coin - they are for the coin, plastic, and label, and company name. The level of scanning/assessment technology has been used in businesses since the 90s technology. I truly believe a handheld iPhone app. could be made using its facial recognition IR scanner (30,000 points of data taken in the blink of an eye).
I buy unopened proof sets when I find a bargain. I opened a 1964 and got a 66 dcam cent, a 67 cam pointed 9 dime and a 67 cam accented hair half. All for $19. Good day😀. Jake
So is it not worth it to just send one in for grading if you think it's a high grade? Why do you say send in bulk? Should I not try to just send one or two in that I know are flawless and really deserve a high grade? Are they more relaxed on the grading of bulk submissions? Just trying to understand cause I have a few that definitely deserve a high grade. Thanks.
I'm glad you showed the 1971 proof set in the thumbnail because that one is the worst. It's as common as dirt and they didn't even put in the new Ike dollar that year. You can buy one on eBay for less than $7 including shipping. If you're willing to buy big lots of them you can knock the price per set way down. And who's going to crack open those sets today, unless there's a rare high-grade cameo in there? A hundred years from now the proof sets of that era will still be junk.
The 1970s was the ripoff glory days of the USmint fleecing collectors, specially with the Eisenhower dolllars. Today I can buy those same mint sets at the same or under the original price the USmint sold them and is fun.
I have a question to ask you how come all my 1965 ss mint set's have 90 percent silver half's it even says on the paper in them there are three clad coins but there's only two could you please tell me why? Thank you.
Daniel at 8:20 here, is the 2012-S silver proof Kennedy different between that taken from the Limited Edition Set & regular silver proof set? If not, then why the big PCGS price difference?
I got a 1986 Proof Set from the San Francisco mint all of it looks good but the penny has a white bump on the S and all the way around the back looks like little styrofoam balls is that an error
Daniel,I have 3 mint sets 1 is a 1977 s,everyone of them error the s looks like a B.The 1985 d and p all of them also have errors. An a godly amount of Wheaties only problem in my neck of the woods no one's deal with error coins
Uh oh I see a problem some people are going to clean their coins and not let the pros do it with a restoration service so you don't get a clean grade. Although sometimes they still get a clean grade. It just hurts the value dragging it down from full value to 70% value.
@@CoinHELPu Daniel can you do a video cleaning/ diping coins on ezest/ MS 70, of business/silver and proof strikes 1970s sets and send them for grading which the cleaning wasn't detected by TPG services and actually obtained a grade? That will be very informative/ educational.
Your time commenting on my video has an expiration date since you're making comments like this. I can choose who sees and comments on my video for a reason, it's my space, my free time and free videos I offer to help people. I don't have to do it, and you seem to not realize that.
I am not getting paid to put videos on TH-cam, I get paid if you watch the ads or click on them. No pay if you do not. Also, don't forget you get to watch these videos for FREE! I could easily charge a subscription. Have a good one.
I have found about a dozen Proof coins in my change or coin roll hunting. Someone robbed grandpa's coin collection. I don't crack open proof sets but I do mint sets if I have extras to fill holes or upgrade my albums.
At 8:50 you noted that "somebody" got a 70 on 69S ! Yeah ...you know who it was? ...it was the VP of PCGS's mother.
I smell shenanigans!
Man I have so many proof sets I don't have the time to go through all of them. I even have quite a few from the 50's & 60's that have never been opened yet! Thanks for sharing Daniel always good Information sir I will be looking for some of the examples you just spoke of.
A set is just that, a set. I'll never crack them open.
That was a Great run down on proof sets man. Thanks you.
Your videos are the best and most informative. Thank you
Great info Daniel! I think you've hit your stride with these last few videos.
Learn more everyday thanks man!!
Hello Daniel, It is all up to you the individual on his coins. Proofs are nice if you know a little about them. MS 68-70 Coin All day long. MS67 maybe and so on. Keep the videos coming. Take care.
i,m starting to collect these, starting with a 39, 42, 64, are the ones i am looking to start with, nothing special just a proof set, great info, be strong, be safe, and be blessed
I love to collect the proof sets, always have. Thanks for Sharing my friend
Thanks for watching!
I crack any proof set 1968 onwards that I have not cracked before. I need the coins for my year mint set. I handle them by the edge with coin safe gloves, and I place them into 2x2s that then get placed into three ring binders. I find that this method is the sweet spot between protection, organization, and display.
I buy two when I get mint sets and crack open one for albums
For early modern proofs, the coins were not sold as sets but individually provided. Thus, the mintages of all denominations per year are different with the cents and nickels being more plentiful than dimes, quarter and halves, as you might expect, in the period from 1936 through 1942. The boxed sets from 1950 through 1955 were individually wrapped coins in small square boxes, and I believe they could only be purchased as sets, but the coins were easy to separate because only a staple held the 5 individually wrapped cellophane flips together. With 1955 came the flat pack with the set in cellophane (5 contiguous coin pouches in one flat wrap), mailed in a manila envelope. (To me, it seems the '55 flat packs are much more plentiful than '55 boxed sets -- so I think the boxes must have been phased out fairly early in the year -- but the boxes demand no additional value as far as I can tell.) The special mint sets from 1965-1967 were in a hard plastic holder. With 1968 came the 'S'-era proofs also coming in hard plastic packaging but of a different arrangement than the special mint sets. The hard plastic holder in various forms has remained, of course, to this day.
Anyone lucky enough to find just about any proof set of entirely strong cameo coins from 1950-1964 is enormously lucky. I have maybe one DCAM quarter and one DCAM half in all my originally packaged proof sets from those years. I think the plastic-degradation discoloring of coins is really much more serious in the mint sets from 1947 into the early '50's, but time will tell. When you mentioned crack-outs, I thought you were going to talk more about the hard-plastic sets more. In the years around the change of millennium, I had heard that dealers were cracking up sets at a furious rate because of the memorabilia demand at the time (1999-2001) and I am pretty sure that originally packaged proof sets are much scarcer from those years than may be suspected. As a collector, to cut up sets on a mere hope that a grading service will grant an MS-67 Cameo on a coin is just not worth it although I can see the motivation. Cutting up or cracking up proof sets is like loosing virginity -- an irreversible action . I think I will leave my virgins in their original condition and let time enhance their scarcity, as long as they don't grow ugly.
It’s tough to find a set for sale that’s not been picked through.
I have a 1964 proof set none of the coins, have an S mint mark I haven’t been able to decide whether to crack it open and send it off for grading or to leave it as a whole. Any suggestions?
They don’t have mint marks from 1964 and earlier. I recommend buying a 2025 red book price guide, it has all of that information.
Thanks for another great video. I have a few proof sets from the 50s.
2 years ago I bought the proof sets 68 to 2008 haven't opened any of them
This was one of my questions, and here you are 3 years ago, answering my question.
Thanks. I really enjoy your informative videos
Daniel. as always another great and informative video.
Great info thanks again Daniel!
Does the errors and varieties makes them change the value for grading !
With all the talk about physical silver I decided to go back and look at my collection (I still enjoy coins thought I don't collect anymore). I have a surprising amount of silver. I have some proof sets but those were never my collecting focus. Much of the silver and proof coins I have I have because I like them. They have no great collector rarity value. I still think the 1982 Washington half is a beautiful modern coin. It's just a nicely made, well struck, coin with actual relief (as opposed to more recent circulation coins that are so flat an un-interesting.) I have a nice circulation strike Franklin half collection in AU or BU condition. Wonderful coins! I can see why they attact money in high grade proof. But I can't bring myself to break up proof sets.
Great info for new collectors
Great video. Thanks for sharing this information.
Modern commemorative half’s are also ignored and have some really low mintages. Do you think there is any potential for these to be sleepers down the line?
Always search my videos. Thanks th-cam.com/video/EX_2IbsENF8/w-d-xo.html
What are sleepers?
Christopher Simpson Coins that are dormant in value. Sleepers meaning they could be “sleeping” at the moment and wake up in value at a later time. Hope that helps.
@@christophersimpson3642 think of it like , you go to the drag races and 2 cars pull up to race , a corvette and an old 1976 station wagon. well you just know the vette will win but you don't what the station wagon is running for a motor. they race and the station wagon wins. the station wagon is a sleeper, it does't look fast to anyone. with coins it's the same way some coins don't get much attention when they come out but after a few yews all of a sudden everyone whats one and the price starts to go up.
CoinHELPu I remember when you made that video lol.. about the extremely low mintages on some more modern coins
Thanks for the information
Just got back into Coins by showing my young kids. Just subbed
Thank you! Great informative video! So appreciated!🤑🤑🤑
What is condition grade? 🤷🏽♂️
BTW, do you have USMC commemorative coins? I thought that I saw them on one of your videos but now I can’t find it. I’m trying to find a few USMC coins for a couple of friends and myself who joined the Corps together. Our enlistment date is coming up soon.
I’d appreciate any leads. Thanks my friend.
Very cool video and content thanks for posting!👍🏼😎❤️
Great video you told me before people don't submit because they are afraid they won't make the grade. I am not worried as I am pretty sure the 1936 to 42 and 50 to 64 will all get at least a 63 grade. As I said before, some have toning that I think should be restored. As for 68 to 73 and then modern after that, self grading to find a pf70 is hard. What makes a coin a 70 from a 68 to 69 is exactly as you said. A GAMBLR for what the grading companies will say. I have checked and rechecked the 36 through 73, there are some nickles, dimes and quarters that are close to cameo but no DCAM, no no S, no varieties. My plan is to conserve and grade the 36 to 42, 50 to 64 as they are in cello or capital holders. These are the best chance to become valuable but I will do the whole set penny through half so as to keep in tact. This is an investment to protect and conserve the coins. Amazing what a coin picks up in an album, toning and blotches. Now let's heal from this pandemic so the coin shops and shows can resume. I was hoping to go to the Dallas one. Every stay safe plesse.
I am thinking about buying some BU CC Morgan common date to stack silver to try to take advantage of an increase in the short-term price of silver, should these be grades?
Please give me info on how to send coins out to be graded and what would be the best deal to do so. TIA
Where will I send off my coins to have them grade or take them near Memphis Tennessee
I inherited a set from 1990 pobjoy mint of 3 QE2 black stamp coins. Two have gold edges. They are in the box but there isn't any paperwork. Where should I go to learn about them besides the mint website? They don't appear to have ever been opened. So shiny!
Two clad Washington quarter proof issues that I would recommend in 68-69 DCAM; 1968-S and 1971-S. Both are incredibly tough to find with true deep cameo surfaces.
And even then you have to watch out for haze and spotting. True problem-free gems will bring a large premium.
Great information as alway, thanks!
Very good Vid. Very informative for me.
Is the toning straight from the holders considered damaged? Thanks
Nice video! I collect proof sets also just for the possibility of a PR70 ... with your video maybe some of the sets will go up in value
I have loved proof sets for over 40 years and am disheartened to see the values of the sets actually decline over time, including the 1936.
The 1936 ain't cheap though, especially if you have the problem-free half, dime, and nickel coins in there. The quarter and cent are a little less desirable but still pretty expensive even in average grade. But you're right about the current value of the 1936. It simply hasn't kept up with inflation and was really worth more at times in the past.
I'm not sure about that. I've seen quite a few of the older sets go up in value the past few years!
Well this explains why I can buy so many PR70 Dcam dimes.
Nice Video, First comment. What do you think about the new American Innovation $ proof sets, are they good collectibles?
I do not think they will be
Aren't they like 40 dollars?
I would guess the 1976 Bicentennial 3pc silver set?
Super, Perfect and Very Importantes Informations Gran CANAL Like 100% from Morocco
Even in 68. I had quite a few of those since it’s my birthyear. It rubs the gambit. DCAM to cream of wheat toning
Morning Daniel!🍵 I guess coin set cracking isn't as offensive as coin melting, but I am glad I am not one of those mint employees who meticulously assembled them in the first place, wondering what journey they would travel on in the future!!
I’ve been buying US Mint 1959-64 proof sets and P & D Uncirculated Silver sets before the prices are too far gone. I’ve paid $75 for the last 1958 Proof set a few months ago. Please understand that the same thing was $20 3-4 years ago. I’ve noticed the prices rising on the 1960-64 as well. I’ve acquired a couple hundred Silver Proof Sets with original COA and Envelopes. I’ve got around the same amount of 1960-64 US Mint P&D Uncirculated silver coins sets. I’ve been pondering whether to keep them in the Mint cellophane or move them into something more substantial. I have kept them in a climate controlled environment and I personally inspect them every year. I haven’t noticed any damage. JM Bullion has called a few times actually asking to buy them. At this point, I might sell.
Would you recommend cracking open proof sets and putting the coins in tubes or keeping them in the OGP, because a lot of them over time, tone and become milky, and even get spotted?
No guarantee they still wont tone, storage methods are more important.
I've submitted several dozen coins to NGC over the years and never got one back that graded as high as I thought.
Good thing you didn't send them to PCGS -- your favorite coin might have come back: Authentic, questionable color!
@@TheAvenstar PCGS should be run out of town.
hello,where do u find the info on the proof sets, that u showed? I have never seen this.
Use our coinhelpu community to ask coin questions coinauctionshelp.com/welcome-to-coinhelpu-community/
Do you have any unopened old proof sets available for sale? 😊
I don't sell them sealed. LOL
@@CoinHELPu he might mean unopened by not broken apart
DAN,
❤ YOUR INFORMATIVE VIDEOS ! I HAVE A 1957 FRANKLIN GRADED PR- 69. IT'S IN A NGC SLAB.
WHAT DO YOU THINK THE CURRENT VALUE IS ?
SARASOTA, RICH
Go to their price guide
I'm getting rid of my proof and uncirculated sets that don't have silver, coin dealers won't give you anything for them. It's gotten to where I have no more room in my safe for the silver I am buying. I have gone from a collector to an investor to some extent. Clad proofs holding no silver look pretty but with few exceptions, worth no more than the change in your piggy bank.
Good video on proof sets. Is 2019 the first year the U.S. Mint started minting .999% silver coins? So would the first year proof set 2019 kept together be of more value then breaking it open?
2019 is the 1st set that cotains .999 silver coins, plus a 2019W reverse proof Lincon cent. I have one too, and probably wont ever crack it open.
They have silver quarters starting in 99 with the state ones. I have thousands. But they are same as junk silver to me. The content is more than the numismatic value. I might be wrong but I bought them at silver price at the time
Damn I just cracked open a 1974 S proof set I needed the Kennedy fit my Kennedy proof album ugh🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
I saw a COA for a CC Morgan go for $300 at auction yesterday -- the COA, not the coin. I hate to think why someone would pay that.
I don't get it either.
@@davidho2977 It's happened a couple times and I expect it to happen again.
a lot of good info, thx
Where would you find these kind of proof sets for sale?
Coin shop, ebay, coin show
CoinHELPu Thank you
What do you recommend a new sticker to start with? Best bang for buck as far as high value coins.
I'm a hobbyist so I'm not looking to get rich by cracking open sets and pilfering them.
I think it's a travesty that it's been done so massively.
Alot of older sets are becoming rare
I HAVE A QUESTION I RECENTLY BOUGHT A LB OF FOREIGN COINS AND FOUND TWO 1971 1 NEW PENNIES DO THEY HAVE VALUE NOT 2 NEW PENCE / 1 NEW PENNY ?
Mr.Malone. Laymans terms...you have a PCGS GRADED MS 70 SET. EACH COIN GRADED MS 70. DO YOU SELL THE SET...OR EACH COIN SEPARATE. MS DEEP CAM. LIMITED 700 SETS
Separately
Daniel,
The other reason people crack open Proof sets is for filling their Dansco albums with the particular coins that they collect. A lot of collectors specialize in only one or two denominations of coin. Lincoln Cents are very popular with collectors, Roosevelt dimes not as much. So you buy the set crack it open, keep the coins you like/collect and sell the ones you don't. Voila, you just saved/made money and filled the hole in your album too.
I collect the early Silver Proof coins 1940-'59 and can tell you from years of hunting that there are a LOT of loose coins out there and quite a few of them that are not worth buying because of poor strikes, over-dipping, improper storage and general mishandling.
Thanks for your comment but that one of the reasons I mentioned in my video, did you miss it?
@@CoinHELPu I was typing as I was listening, I did delete another comment I had that you did mention in the video.
Whoops I guess I missed that one...My Bad
Playing the slabbing game is a way to make money as you show. But the very sad part is if the companies ever start becoming legitimate in how they grade by using technology with repeatable results, there could be a Beanie Baby type crash! Those prices being paid are not for the coin - they are for the coin, plastic, and label, and company name. The level of scanning/assessment technology has been used in businesses since the 90s technology. I truly believe a handheld iPhone app. could be made using its facial recognition IR scanner (30,000 points of data taken in the blink of an eye).
I agree with you to a point but it's not that simple for software to be developed to grade coins.
@@CoinHELPu BINGO. Developing the "correct" software is a major challenge.
Very well put.
I buy unopened proof sets when I find a bargain. I opened a 1964 and got a 66 dcam cent, a 67 cam pointed 9 dime and a 67 cam accented hair half. All for $19. Good day😀. Jake
NICE!!
I will buy some proof sets for fun. Check for coins worth cracking our and for varieties. I’m just bored so it’ll give me stuff to do
So is it not worth it to just send one in for grading if you think it's a high grade? Why do you say send in bulk? Should I not try to just send one or two in that I know are flawless and really deserve a high grade? Are they more relaxed on the grading of bulk submissions? Just trying to understand cause I have a few that definitely deserve a high grade. Thanks.
We're talking about busting open multiple proof sets, bulk submission has nothing to do with the grades you get.
I have a 1998 Olympic silver set found it worth $45 is that a good price?
Check ebay sold auctions
I'm glad you showed the 1971 proof set in the thumbnail because that one is the worst. It's as common as dirt and they didn't even put in the new Ike dollar that year. You can buy one on eBay for less than $7 including shipping. If you're willing to buy big lots of them you can knock the price per set way down. And who's going to crack open those sets today, unless there's a rare high-grade cameo in there? A hundred years from now the proof sets of that era will still be junk.
The 1970s was the ripoff glory days of the USmint fleecing collectors, specially with the Eisenhower dolllars. Today I can buy those same mint sets at the same or under the original price the USmint sold them and is fun.
I have a question to ask you how come all my 1965 ss mint set's have 90 percent silver half's it even says on the paper in them there are three clad coins but there's only two could you please tell me why? Thank you.
I can’t answer that in these comments, post it in the help community
Read description in any Red Book.
My value of clad coins = Face Value
Daniel at 8:20 here, is the 2012-S silver proof Kennedy different between that taken from the Limited Edition Set & regular silver proof set? If not, then why the big PCGS price difference?
Might call PCGS to clarify on this one.
How do i know what my proof set from 1992?
Use a price guide or ebay sold auctions.
@@CoinHELPu I'm new to this so I really appreciate your kindness and help
Do u have address where I can send u a coin to look at for me
I only help in my coin community, linked in my video description.
I got a 1986 Proof Set from the San Francisco mint all of it looks good but the penny
has a white bump on the S and all the way around the back looks like little styrofoam balls is that an error
No wouldn't be an error
Thanks
How could one buy proof sets that dealers or anyone hasn't already put them under a scope
No one can answer that question
So there us no way to get old sets from the mint either?
If someone has a question for you, what is the best way to ask it? Here?
Join my help community and ask coinauctionshelp.com/forum/index.php
or search my videos I have done videos on many questions
I don't think I'll ever crack any sets open.
Sometimes the penny is worth the most, because it might be "red" and get a premium from people who are willing to pay for pennies.
Daniel,I have 3 mint sets 1 is a 1977 s,everyone of them error the s looks like a B.The 1985 d and p all of them also have errors. An a godly amount of Wheaties only problem in my neck of the woods no one's deal with error coins
I have 77s as well, one of mine the nickel obverse looks straight gold, dcam and all.
Uh oh I see a problem some people are going to clean their coins and not let the pros do it with a restoration service so you don't get a clean grade. Although sometimes they still get a clean grade. It just hurts the value dragging it down from full value to 70% value.
Oh wow so I've been wrong arguing with folks about coins getting cleaned and not graded as such??? Lesson learned
Not scrubbed, buffed or harshly cleaned but restored professional buy an experienced dealer, expert.
@@CoinHELPu best left to the pros which I am not lol
@@CoinHELPu Daniel can you do a video cleaning/ diping coins on ezest/ MS 70, of business/silver and proof strikes 1970s sets and send them for grading which the cleaning wasn't detected by TPG services and actually obtained a grade? That will be very informative/ educational.
Silver proof sets I will never crack open
I love cracking sets..It is like a lottery ticket...You got to pay to play..
Good info Daniel!!!
made absolutely no cents
Your time commenting on my video has an expiration date since you're making comments like this. I can choose who sees and comments on my video for a reason, it's my space, my free time and free videos I offer to help people. I don't have to do it, and you seem to not realize that.
the box sets rune the coins and the flat packs are no better. i want my proofs graded. government packaging was bad before 1990's
Yea but I can’t sell a messed up coin that is toned. People want white silver coins.
I like all your videos but don’t forget your getting paid for putting them on TH-cam !!!
I am not getting paid to put videos on TH-cam, I get paid if you watch the ads or click on them. No pay if you do not. Also, don't forget you get to watch these videos for FREE! I could easily charge a subscription. Have a good one.