You must love your Morris as much as I love my Sprinter campervan I built. Thankfully the rust was only panels and not structural pillars on mine. I think I'd have have passed on your task.You must have some tenacity, well done.
You’re very lucky today with the use of mig welders! Back in my day it was either gas welding with oxygen & acetylene or brazing ! But brazing was actually stronger then gas welding especially if you did a lap joint! Your really spoilt having a mig welder! I have one now but don’t do any panel work on my vehicles but I think I made a suggestion to remove the shielded cover from the end of your torch so you can actually see the wire & where you want to weld, without having to cock your head to one side or the other! You can only do this using the gasless wire!
Fantastic job you're doing. May I suggest that it's OK to take the guard off the angle grinder when you need to get into some tight spaces. Just be sure to keep wearing the face shield and watch for your hands moving up the grinder toward the cutting wheel. I run mine this way most of the time and it helps a lot. Nobody is going to arrest you or fine you for doing this. LOL ;) Cheers..! Chris
Haha, yeah, I much prefer to keep it on if I can help it with the thin 1mm cutting disks - it's such a habit I forget I can take it off for very tight jobs. Thanks for the reminder, came in useful cutting the end of the cross member!
You appear to be removing a lot of solid metal. It is sometimes better to cut out the portion of the patch panel you need and weld tat in rather than replace the entire part. A lot less work and the end result is often better.
Interesting, I found replacing whole panels honestly easier than places where I patched it (like welding the floor edges on!) when I did the other side and it was very hard assessing how bad those inner sills and the back face of the boxing panel was. I was worrying I was taking too much out at some points though, knowing what is "good enough" metal is tricky. When I did this side I ended up taking a bit more out, the biggest difference was the door pillar (just replaced the bottom with a patch on the other side) but it was in pretty bad condition on this side in my opinion. Definitely wasn't super sure if it was the right thing to do though, really didn't want to touch the hinge locations... I'm much happier having some surface protection on the inside of those sills though. Probably would have been much easier leaving the upper sill - just did a few patches on the other side for that. Think I regret removing the whole of that panel certainly. But hey, learning as I go. First car I've restored. Thanks for the advice!
Interesting to watch you do this job with the few tools you have. You are very determined and have a positive attitude. However spent a lot of the time cringing, it's a wonder you haven't gashed your hands. Do yourself a favour and save my nerves 😂 get a decent pair of work gloves.
I've never been keen on gloves, had a friend who had his hand degloved and never liked the idea of wearing them using angle grinders and spinning tools. Always figured the odd scrape was better than getting a glove caught in a grinder.
It's a special spot weld removal drill, odd profile and it seems a huge pain to sharpen from what I've read. I had ordered a replacement but it was stuck in the post for ages so I uses this one for *far* too long!
@@hanvyj2 I would still learn how to sharpen it, you would not believe how much faster the drill works (you would have forgotten by now from when you first started using it) it's all about the angles of the drill bit. You can also get drill bit angle gauges for sharpening your old drill bits, this will save you money in the future and a skill that is worth having. Plus a skill that no-one seems to learn anymore. Then you can teach all of your followers your new skills!, Also I am loving watching you cutting out the old spot-welds. Yes it is long and tedious, but no-one else shows this and so anyone who wants to rebuild their morrie from the ground up will not have the foggiest of what to do! Well done you! top marks! (as I would say to my gaming friends "Have a Frog, I just cleaned it for you")😁.
Sometimes it's better to remove surplus metal leaving just a narrow strip with spot welds in and then grind away at the residual strip until it is so thin you can peel it off leaving the remains of the spot welds to be ground away. I would also suggest that you get a panel splitter or grind the end of your old wood chisel to a longer bevel. Blunt tools are a pain in the nether regions, but I can understand why you persevered with the worn out spot weld removal drill until you could get a replacement. Looks like you have plenty of work to do, and I hope that your replacement panels don't need too much fettling to fit. I'm enjoying the videos and wish you good luck.
Damn ! What a lot of rusty metal removal ! Reminds me of a MGB I once restored .
You must love your Morris as much as I love my Sprinter campervan I built. Thankfully the rust was only panels and not structural pillars on mine. I think I'd have have passed on your task.You must have some tenacity, well done.
You’re very lucky today with the use of mig welders! Back in my day it was either gas welding with oxygen & acetylene or brazing ! But brazing was actually stronger then gas welding especially if you did a lap joint!
Your really spoilt having a mig welder! I have one now but don’t do any panel work on my vehicles but I think I made a suggestion to remove the shielded cover from the end of your torch so you can actually see the wire & where you want to weld, without having to cock your head to one side or the other! You can only do this using the gasless wire!
Fantastic job you're doing. May I suggest that it's OK to take the guard off the angle grinder when you need to get into some tight spaces. Just be sure to keep wearing the face shield and watch for your hands moving up the grinder toward the cutting wheel. I run mine this way most of the time and it helps a lot. Nobody is going to arrest you or fine you for doing this. LOL ;)
Cheers..!
Chris
Haha, yeah, I much prefer to keep it on if I can help it with the thin 1mm cutting disks - it's such a habit I forget I can take it off for very tight jobs. Thanks for the reminder, came in useful cutting the end of the cross member!
You appear to be removing a lot of solid metal. It is sometimes better to cut out the portion of the patch panel you need and weld tat in rather than replace the entire part. A lot less work and the end result is often better.
Interesting, I found replacing whole panels honestly easier than places where I patched it (like welding the floor edges on!) when I did the other side and it was very hard assessing how bad those inner sills and the back face of the boxing panel was. I was worrying I was taking too much out at some points though, knowing what is "good enough" metal is tricky.
When I did this side I ended up taking a bit more out, the biggest difference was the door pillar (just replaced the bottom with a patch on the other side) but it was in pretty bad condition on this side in my opinion. Definitely wasn't super sure if it was the right thing to do though, really didn't want to touch the hinge locations...
I'm much happier having some surface protection on the inside of those sills though.
Probably would have been much easier leaving the upper sill - just did a few patches on the other side for that. Think I regret removing the whole of that panel certainly.
But hey, learning as I go. First car I've restored. Thanks for the advice!
Interesting to watch you do this job with the few tools you have. You are very determined and have a positive attitude. However spent a lot of the time cringing, it's a wonder you haven't gashed your hands. Do yourself a favour and save my nerves 😂 get a decent pair of work gloves.
I've never been keen on gloves, had a friend who had his hand degloved and never liked the idea of wearing them using angle grinders and spinning tools.
Always figured the odd scrape was better than getting a glove caught in a grinder.
Invest in a youtube vid on sharpening your drill! you won't regret it.
It's a special spot weld removal drill, odd profile and it seems a huge pain to sharpen from what I've read.
I had ordered a replacement but it was stuck in the post for ages so I uses this one for *far* too long!
@@hanvyj2 I would still learn how to sharpen it, you would not believe how much faster the drill works (you would have forgotten by now from when you first started using it) it's all about the angles of the drill bit. You can also get drill bit angle gauges for sharpening your old drill bits, this will save you money in the future and a skill that is worth having. Plus a skill that no-one seems to learn anymore. Then you can teach all of your followers your new skills!,
Also I am loving watching you cutting out the old spot-welds. Yes it is long and tedious, but no-one else shows this and so anyone who wants to rebuild their morrie from the ground up will not have the foggiest of what to do!
Well done you! top marks! (as I would say to my gaming friends "Have a Frog, I just cleaned it for you")😁.
Sometimes it's better to remove surplus metal leaving just a narrow strip with spot welds in and then grind away at the residual strip until it is so thin you can peel it off leaving the remains of the spot welds to be ground away. I would also suggest that you get a panel splitter or grind the end of your old wood chisel to a longer bevel. Blunt tools are a pain in the nether regions, but I can understand why you persevered with the worn out spot weld removal drill until you could get a replacement. Looks like you have plenty of work to do, and I hope that your replacement panels don't need too much fettling to fit. I'm enjoying the videos and wish you good luck.
@@georgeclements2742thanks, hadn't thought of grinding a better shape into the chisel, might do that if I end up splitting many more spot welds!
wear some gloves