Deck Foundations with the Makita 40v Earth Auger!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ก.พ. 2023
- Today we start building the new deck! We are drilling the foundations with the 40v Makita ground auger. Crazy drill!
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There are a lot of spam comments at the moment pretending to be me, offering prizes, and asking people for personal information. Please ignore and report them. We are trying to delete them but bots work fast!
These scams are all over TH-cam, only replies that have a tick next to my name are real.
Yeah I report them every time. Doubt it makes any difference but I do.
Yep just had the third one from same source...I wish everything they do to others upon them and their families forever
@@stuartcraigon2003 They are too busy demonetarizing good content to worry about spam.
1:56 you hammer them down and they go up! What magic! :)
I want one of those undo mallets. Sometimes the normal one overdoes it.
Ireland here, we dig out and pour concrete foundations/footings and fit the weed barrier membrane, the trend lately is to use adjustable decking pedestal risers made from recycled plastic set on the concrete-the odd fixing if even required as the weight of the deck means its not going anywhere. The plastic risers are great when you live in a climate where the ground is as wet as an otters pocket 6+ months of the year.
Do you have any earthquakes in Ireland ? I was wondering how the plastic (and I realise all plastics are not equal) risers would cope .
@@Chris-NZ Very rarely, and mostly off the coast; or when a plane full of American tourists land..
@@S7tronic 😀😀😀
Hi, plastic Corconian here. I am a 4th-year apprentice and I am doing a lot of decks for my boss. What we do is just slap a slab or block on the ground and then pack up the joist to the height. I always thought this is wrong but 4 years old deck didn't move at all.
Warms my heart to see pythagorus be whipped out for a deck! Programmer by trade here in Welly, recently put up my first fence and have been binging almost all of your content. That project forced my hand to move from Ozito to Makita (circular saw baseplate on Ozito would slip to max depth, mid cut...). Have loved watching you renovate your own house as, other than the gifted tools, cost of the work/tools seems to be a big factor in this series. Wish I had a bigger auger bit when I was doing my things. Love your stuff Scott, keep them coming!
I was thinking there was a wee bit of Archimedes too 🙂
Who says we don't use math in our day to day lives.
1947 the year of my birth Scott,decking foundation coming on well. Thank you for the latest exciting episode.👍👍
Us in Canada pour concrete footings for decks with no post in the ground, and then a bracket with a post is anchoured to the footing. Depending on the deck, you could have piles of snow sitting against the wood post all winter, which isn't ideal. Also, if the post every rots out, it's easier to change out the post if it isn't embedded into the ground.
This also means we are not having to brace posts when we pour footing for decks, which makes life a little easier. For a fence mind you, we do it like everybody else sink the post into the ground with some concrete, need that for lateral stability anyway.
This is also done in Australia and New Zealand I don't know why Scott decided to do this can't really see the benefits
@@dengshomeinvasions1273 Future house extension plans maybe? Doing a good footing so he can easily expand the house size in the future when funds allow?
And that's why WE in Canada should use gravel instead of concrete.
I'm with you there. When I built my deck in California i poured concrete footings and at the base I have 4 inches of crushed rocks.
@@RobBread1 You get a lot of frost heave in California?
I am fully impressed! It’s just a complete th-cam.com/users/postUgkxGqOCINHE0Z0E5gxzSdNi9NWGugRY5Hm2 plan with the best resources and step by step instructions . These shed plans are so satisfying as if the sheds build themselves on their own. Worthy work Ryan!
Well, in Germany we would use metal post supports with a knock-in sleeve. Firstly it is faster and secondly it lasts longer.
Hey mate could you share a link to the type of product you use? Interested to see 🙂
A lot of interesting comments from around the world. Scott in NZ is using what is available as, I am guessing, things can get expensive at the end of the supply chain.
A Kiwi building a deck is double-entendre heaven 😂
My neighbour's wife prefers my deck to his. She says it's just so big.
Jess missed a trick when you were both digging a square space…..
❤
Canadian here. We have hollow pvc tapered tubes that can be used as deck supports (product name is Sonatubes). You put them all at the same rough level in dug holes, then bury around them with dirt. Then you can laser level all of the tubes and cut the difference off with a skill saw. The tubes are then ready to pour cement in the hollow tubes.The tubes are tapered because in Canada where it is cold, the frost can push up just regular posts.
I built a 2 container/hybrid home and placed them on 6 sonatubes per container.
In Australia we have used round iron bark power pole posts as stumps set in concrete. The bearer is rested on the top of the stump with an ant cap and tied in with bracket bolted to the bearer and side of the stump. I also like using adjustable galvanized stirrups to help get a marginal fall in the deck away from the house for better drainage of storm water.
Crazy Mate! In California, we don't embed wood in concrete below grade for anything (the building code doesn't allow it). With so much of the soil having a higher clay content that retains water, the "higher end" custom home builders will place some gravel in the bottom of the hole & pour concrete around the rest of the way on fence posts otherwise the post (even pressure treated ones) will rot out usually just below the ground level; for deck posts, the wooden posts are attached to precast concrete piers with Simpson Strong-Tie hardware and the piers are "wet-set" into a poured in place concrete pier.
these posts will not rot.They are treated to H5. H6 is marine grade treatent. As Scott says we can build houses withH5. Certailn piles are buried deeper because they will form the bracing in the subfloor because we have high wids and earthquakes here
@@pauls4708 I remember."4 seasons in a day"! I lived in Wellington back in the late 80's as I was the project manager for Hawkins on the Air New Zealand Domestic Terminal addition at Wellington airport.
We also get earthquakes and high winds in California.
They will definitely rot cus
I am with Jess, I love hard work I can watch it all day too
I can't tell you how much i enjoy the jazzy musical carpet in the background...The rest is equally enjoyable too!
One of the best feelings in carpentry is when you eye it for square, check the 3,4,5 and it’s spot on on within a mm or 2
Exciting to see the start of the deck . Cannot wait to see it finished. You guys are doing a great job☺️👍
Nearly bought that auger drill so many times but I have to keep reminding myself when I see it in the shop "no, you only have 100mm of soil in your yard before there's rock. You don't need it"
In that case you need the Makita 2x40V SDS-MAX 😁
@@toolscientist got it 😅😂
I am looking forward to new updates, as my new home project is a new deck! Keep doing a great job 👍 👏 👌 . Cheers from Wales (Uk)
I live in New Bern, North Carolina which is on the east coast of the states. I think our ground and soil conditions are very similar to yours (Minus the volcanic rock). Im a Geotechnical Technician working with foundational soils and concrete is what I do. its very common to not only put posts in concrete, we also drive piles 10-15 feet plus in to ground than cap them with concrete for a foundation. love your videos keep up the amazing work.
Was thinking that wouldn't be a bad tool for taking asphalt cores, much better then annoying gas powered drills.
*_" we also drive piles 10-15 feet plus in to ground than cap them with concrete for a foundation."_*
We do that in peaty soils in NZ - and driven friction piles with a crawlspace too.
Thanks for explaining the profiles and layout. Understanding how to correct the 10mm out of square would be helpful too. Love your videos Scott.
Very interesting preparing to build your deck ! Looking good SBC🎉😎👍
Damn that auger is impressive!
I just come here to watch people work Jess, its that kind of channel ! . Bet you are glad you are not trying to work in Auckland this summer.
These are the episodes of Scott Brown Carpentry that I missed. Showing us how it’s done. ‘10mm off, can you live with that?’….’nah!’ Love the perfectionism. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Scotty an excellent build
Scott brown, doing a deck, with only 1 other person (minus jess)... its soo nostalgic to the OG north island days
Posts direct in the ground also provide resistance to sideways pressure and minimise further bracing requirements. They work well in New Zealand!
In the Netherlands to.
The issue is not in whether the wood provides structural integrity, it is that CCA leeches into the soil and can be absorbed by plants. CCA is no longer used in residential construction in Canada, since 2003. If New Zealand still allows it, go ahead.
@@Major-Dan Not many plants growing under my house and deck.
@@mikerichardson415 Good, then as long as you don't use CCA in your garden, you should be just fine.
I did a bit of building-work in Queensland, where I live; and tens of thousands of houses have local-species of hardwood 'stump' directly into the dirt, no concrete, nothing.
Stumps are often more than 1.5metres in, to provide bracing.
Many of those houses are now 70+ years old, and plenty are 100+
Often a house needs one or two stumps replaced after 50 years.
The replacement - where visible from the street [to maintain "character'] - is usually a CCA treated hardwood pole [typically a power-pole] into concrete, little metal termite-cap on the top.
Replacements where not-visible [such as the second row] are often steel, for convenience, ease and price.
Nice poles man, you (NZ) build even houses on them! We build complete citys on wooden poles,...yep.. like the centre of Old Amsterdam.
Even better than watching someone else dig wholes, the sound of the rail and the nail gun is so relaxing.
Not just in the "States" ;-) The principle issue I can see with embedding chemically treated wood into the ground is leeching of those chemicals into the soil. Don't do it near your vegetable garden... In Canada, we pour a concrete tube and using a post bracket, keep the post above the soil. Not a lot more concrete being used in this method and a lot less post. Clearly, climate is a big factor. We have freeze thaw cycles that can penetrate beyond 1.5 metres in some areas. PS. Love your videos. Seeing the difference in building codes, materials and methods are a great way to not just compare but we can learn from each other.
As Scott described how the posts are buried in concrete, I would not think that the posts will transfer any chemicals to the soil.
But where I am from post brackets are most likely used as you mentioned.
@@BSCequalBOS I agree, it's quite likely not an issue, but I prefer to err on the side of caution and only suggest he keep them away from where he grows his veggies. PS. Concrete is not a moisture block. It will delay any moisture (including dissolved chemicals) but will not stop it.
As deck builder too in Canada (and watching the annual ground freeze & thaw cycles take place), I now much prefer setting my ACQ pressure lumber posts on top of the concrete posts with metal connector plates. Me thinks the Simpson Strong-Tie company is doing well now.
How do these concrete post perform in earthquakes. ? We sit on the boundary between two tectonic plates and earthquakes are frequent .
We use the same wood for building our raised garden beds without any issues.
another top quality video by Scott and the team
Such great cinematography.
In the states we do it the same way. The plastic lifters are neat time saver.
When I built my deck last summer I used a earth auger to drill out the holes for the pillars. Your soil looks easy to drill in. I had thick clay whit little rocks. 11 holes and 3 of them I had to use stone wedges to crack upp som large stones I could not dig upp by hand. The auger is my new friend when doing lots of digging 😁
Shocked at how well that drill and battery worked. Fantastic.
This was great!
Some awesome tips here! I’ve been planning a deck extension but I’m only an amateur DIYer from Northland.
A day with a new Scott Brown video is always a good day 👌
We don't use treated Timber in Germany, so we use zinc coated metal braces in various shapes that we screw onto the post and then either anchor them on top of the foundation or pour concrete around them. They also allow you to raise the post above groundlevel so the wood is protected from spray when it's raining
Same in serbia, malta and greece, guess its a european thing 😁
How does the timver and zinc stand up to the weather conditions. Just curious cause here that would fall apart in a few months
@@dozaroner642 depending on the species of tree, any further protective coating, the quality of your hardware (you can also get stainless steel for corrosive environments) and the effort you put in for maintenance, I would say something from 15 to 50 years in most cases
Yes. We call it "structural wood protection" to make shure, that the wood will not be in contact with water, and, if it will happen, that the wood can dry fast.
love the videos man already starting my weekend off right🎰
Always love a build project. Good onya guys👍👍
Nice video Scott .. those pile supports look amazing ! great work !!
By the way Scott is using SubBase125 pile supports ..
Thanks for the upload great as always 👍✌️
Really enjoying watching this deck being built. Would love more videos though!
Great stuff Scott Good to see you can make profiles grow up by hammering them 🙂 1:57
Nelson looks amazing
Not jealous at all
Nice work Scott. We do what we know here in NZ. Been watching your Channel from the start. Love it
Thanks from France for this episode Scott 😉
thanks
That auger is also very handy in the garden 😊
They are brilliant for hedge planting😁
Well Jess, that is some nice B roll there ❤
Never missed an episode of your channel, never seen those spacers for the posts before, good idea. If posts in the ground are done properly, they will last years.
Here in Finland the climate is too harsh for wooden posts, (ground is frozen many months of the year) so concrete is what we use. But if wood is a proven method in NZ, then you use it, of course. Always looking forward to your videos, keep up the good work.
We bought this auger on your recommendation. Works great on normal soils, but stalls constantly on rocky soils. Which is pretty much all we have here in Hobart!
I can't imagine I would be that good in clay either
Nice job Scott. You build with the systems and products which have proven to work in your area, why charge. I’m a little jealous of your weather right now, Dallas, TX is under ice at this moment 😖.
That auger made short work of the holes. Love the videos.
For low to ground decks like that here in Aus, we hang concrete stumps off the bearers drop the whole thing in, prop it to level then fill holes with conc. Job done.
I've used a multitude of methods to install posts for both decks and pergola's...stirrups embedded, posts embedded, brackets fastened or embedded into the footings...all work well, and I think it's up to personal preference...unless your Codes dictate the post installment method...i.e. high wind loadings for pergola's, but whenever I@ve embedded posts into footings...have ALWAYS wrapped them in plastic and taped edges/seams, cut the plastic off at footing level...then run a small bead of silicone around it to prevent water ingress...can then hide the footing/post with whatever floats your boat...works a treat everytime...and unlike our Canadian/US/UK commenters...never have the snow issue to worry about here 😁😁😁😁
Agree with other comments about using stirrups. For me this is aesthetically more pleasing and you can always check the integrity of the post
nice job👍👍
We put an end to CCA in 2003. Kind of surprised you guys still had it there. That drill really saved you guys some serious time!
Most of the stuff here in NZ is ammonium sulfite treated. NZ and I think the rest of Australasia use an grading system of protection called H rating. The higher the number the higher the protection. The piles here are pretty high rated H4 hence why the old school CCA treatment. Most fences are made with H3 treated timber and interior timberwork normally H2. H2 is the bright pink timber you houses framed with :P
@@hughbugger Awesome info....thanks!
If there’s one thing I love to watch, it’s a Scott brown Deck Video.
Like Scott said, it's not that kind of channel!
good job
Using a brick to hold post off of the dirt works well, also can be used as aggregate if you don't have enough concrete to fill the hole
Finishing a beautiful deck video from 4 years ago that you built is the way you should do yours, Great TH-cam channel
Im in the US we do the same thing with post and we also do a concrete footing and then attach wood just depends on the build or what someone wants.
Gotta love Kiwis chatting about their decks.
Great video as always! Built a few decks and fences with 36v one. Absolutely loved it but sold because I jumped to all 40v tools. Still thinking if I should get xgt one or 82v greenworks. They have similar price but green one has much less speed which should result in much more torque. In my place there is mostly clay with a lot of rocks, old foundations that were bombed in WW2(they are hard af, waiting 80v demo hammer to be avaliable to dig past them) I know that I would totally use Makita's auger attachments for sure.
The moment your friend asked you if you can live 10mm off and the answer is celar 🤣 No! When you are using the Nailgun, i can see how heavy the work was, looks tired 🙂 Great job and awesome work!
Always ensure you check for cables, pipes, irrigation etc, before you dig.
The more you know 🌈⭐️
Love the edit banging "in" the posts
In Japan posts sit on a concrete blocks if you’re lucky. Sometimes it’s a rock but that works too 😅
I’m amazed by how similar the landscape is where you are and coastal Japan. Check out Shimoda in Shizuoka, it’s uncanny.
Ground screws would also be a good option here 👍
Woah the work bench got some wheelies 🫶
Jess and her brutal honesty 😂😂😂😂😂😂
While we are talking digging, the carbide pruning blades are amazing for cutting roots out. I usually end up breaking the blade attachment off before the blades are dull.
DangyouScott, that was way to quick and ya leaving us wanting, suppose the point😉
Cheers,and I wat that makita 40v augur here in States,as awesome! Definitely needs a 12Ah me thinks…
✌🏻
In Minnesota footings are all concrete, but they also have to be 6 feet deep, to be below the frost line. If they were less deep than that the frost heaves in the spring will lift and break up your foundation.
Coat timber posts in bitumen below ground level it really helps protect them
Wish I had those ground conditions here in Sydney! For a lot of us once you get 300mm from the surface your into shale or solid sandstone - time for a jackhammer.
When I saw how easily you guys those holes, I thought to myself, you lucky bustard! Here we have solid clay...
Great job, Scott. And co.
We use this method of conc post in Melbourne
That ground is so nice for digging , here in north west England that drill would have been really tested as well as your arms wrestling the monster drill 😬😆🧱👍🏼😊
In the ground with concrete works for us in Oz. First time I have seen 'Stools' that big. My experience has been coffee cup size to support Reo bar. You did well to get the holes dug with the battery power auger. I have the 18v Ryobi which does about four holes. But have plenty of batteries. 😎
yes those 'stools' are SubBase125's - SubBase also make the Subbase100 which has signoff for using 90x90 H% piles for residential timber decks !!
As many other comments have stated, I typically pour a concrete footing with a metal bracket above the surface to accept to post (Canada). In the past I did use an additional product that could/should make the method Scott used last forever. You drill a hole in the post, drop in a pellet that dissolves and leaches when moisture reaches it, and prevents rot. The hole is capped with a removable plug so new pellets can be added every 5 or 10 years. It is common to see these in utility poles I’ve noticed as well.
I use plastic pipe 6" or 8" , set in ground laser level off, cut to level fill with concrete, use saddles or metal adjustable feet for frame work
Always interesting to see how construction is done outside of the US. I don't think we even use CCA here any more, as I thought it was phased out years ago.
Hello and greetings from CT, USA! I have been watching since the start of the reno. Nice work... Regarding the deck post supports, I had been using the adjustable helical pier post or the diamond pier post which spread the loads evenly without the need of digging holes and using concrete. Either pier can be driven directly into undisturbed soil with the use of an auger machine or jackhammer.
We get so much rain where I live the post just rots out if you encase it like that. No matter the chemicals. We don't use concrete anymore, just crushed rock. Works great. All depends on your climate I guess.
Here in west coast of the U.S we pour concrete footings and use metal brackets on top of footing to hold posts. Much easier to mend down the road. As someone once told me “ there’s a million ways to make a cake”
Could even add post sleeves around each of the posts, for some extra protection
Nice we also use the 3,4,5 method out here in the U.S. but it’s in feet
I'm too lazy to walk that far, so I use centimetres.
Just what my dad showed me 55 years ago, keep you datums outside your work area.
"We're 10 mil off, can you live with that?"
"Nah" .... oooof! That moment was so satisfying, surprisingly so 😍
*Hey Scott, I'm from the Westside of Auckland.... that was just a wee drizzle of rain you got in this video. Come on back to Auckland see what rain really was...! Lots of work to had up here now, after the flooding and slips. Ok back to the post holes. I have always dug them out by spade at 600 deep (lie on belly & put in my arm as it is my arm length for measurement). Back then we never had those yellow thingees... put in a bit of concrete, place in posts... square them off... brace them on two sides.... and then finish off putting in the rest of the concrete mix. Last lot I seen poured was empty in the bag-mix and then add in water. Times sure have changed.*
Hi Scott really like your videos picked up some good tips for setting out the decking, you could think about using bugle screws instead of nails when fixing the braces off so it’s easier to take apart and no de nailing haha but it was raining so wouldn’t of been overly ideal in the rain screwing oppose to nailing haha
I'd love to see the Makita 40V Earth Auger go head to head with the Stihl BT45 Wood/Earth Auger because those have a lot of grunt for their size.
Prefer to use concrete decking posts,available in various lengths, they are recessed to accept up to 100mm -150mm timbers and are pre-drilled for easy use, here in England.
I built a 7 by 4 meter deck and puored 24 concrete foundations. I uses steel ancors and screwed the wood into them so i got 50mm ground clearing
You are possibly all over this, but just incase..... that red flower you were enjoying Jess, is a dahlia and so so easy to move. Just use a garden fork to loosen the soil up around it and grab the juicy tuber roots, dig a hole elsewhere and dump it in. They are the easiest flowers to grow... and they keep coming back every year... please excuse me if you already know all of that!