Building a Sturdy Shed Foundation ... this was hard
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 พ.ย. 2023
- Starting my 10x12 DIY Shed with how to build a sturdy shed foundation with gravel base.
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Pt 2. Framing a Sturdy Shed - • Framing a Shed by Your...
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When I was growing up, if I did something bad, my step dad used to make me dig fence post holes. I feel like your tip about having your kid dig the hole is a GREAT tip. It really made me not want to do bad things any more.
welp, looks like Holes is getting a sequel
It made me get smarter in not getting caught doing something bad.
@@bozzskaggs112 When I look at the high level of mediocracy in todays young adult workforce, I wonder if teaching kids that hard work is a punishment wasn't a very bright idea.
This is a very new/interesting/weird way to do a building foundation to me. We've always done cinder blocks on a leveled/tamped gravel perimeter with a higher middle (doesn't need to be flat) that then gets filled with gravel and throw a concrete slab on top of it. No worry about warping, less digging/tamping, no worry about eventual wood rot, no worry about critters etc. making homes underneath, etc. Also, outdoor rated screws are a far superior choice here as opposed to framing nails. Screws will stay in place and hold things together much better, particularly if the wood is open to the elements and bending/moving etc.
oddly enough interesting and weird are some of the top adjectives people use to describe me 😂
@@Fixthisbuildthat ditto my man.
Agree ... wood will rot fast.
It’s just a shed. I did the same way over 20 years ago and no problem.
@@OtikaOtikaOtikait depends what fast is to you. I have a 60yo retaining wall here made of 6x6 and it is still holding fine
Treat the cut ends to prevent rotting and cut the rebar at a sharp angle to make it easier to pound into soil
Great video! I'm gearing up to build this same style foundation for my new 14'x16' woodworking shop. Pretty sure you've saved me from making some boneheaded mistakes along the way.
I have a suggestion, when drilling through the beam. You can use a bit extension to give you the extra length. They come in 6", and 12" lengths. Could also been useful when attaching the rim joist . By the looks of the floor, the shed is going to be solid as a rock,... 👍
A true engineer 👍🏼 over design and over build, loved it! This is the theme of most of my projects, well done sir.
if you're gonna do it, over do it :)
Thank you so much for getting to shed building! I’m about to start my own shed project as we’ve recently purchased and built on some land. Excited to see your step by step and follow your lead!
other tutorials are also available................... jus sayin
Great job, Brad. I enjoy watching someone else working. I've done plenty of it in my life.
Bill
I'm building a 12 x 16 shed. I used my 5 x 10 trailer to purchase and haul the #57 gravel....1 - 1.25 tons at a time. I did not want a large pile sitting in one area of my yard even if it was right next to my location or the large truck doing damage. Made 7 trips and totaled 9 tons. I backed the trailer to the area and used the scoop shovel to hand load in place. Your foundation is very similar to what I built. The shed almost completed. I am down to installing the siding. I also built the doors from oak lumber harvested from trees we took down in our back yard. I very much enjoy your videos and your quirky(?) nature!
Very good to see you taking the tamping seriously. I come from a mine engineering background, and our prof for tailings dams noted that one of the biggest concerns with building them is overseeing the compaction process. Apparently it's not uncommon for work crews to work fast and skimp on the compaction steps to get the job done faster. Which you can kinda get away with in a lot of applications (including stuff like this shed) but you'll always have some differential settling issues, and different drainage characteristics. Which, if you have an earth-fill dam, is a critical problem.
Hope that pressure treated wood works out for you. I live out on the coast of BC (Canada just north of Washington State), and out here we tend to have issues with pressure treated wood not being as rot resistant at the cut ends than is needed in our quite wet climate. Folks who can afford it tend to use cedar instead - you can cut into a cedar log that has another tree grown over/around it and still find good wood in the middle, cedar lasts *ages* - for outdoor applications, and folks using the pressure treated stuff instead buy a product that you brush onto the ends to seal up the end grain. But thats for fairly extreme wet climates, we literally use the terms "rainforest" and "hypermaritime climate" to describe this area. You're definitely in a drier region, going by the trees in the background.
Down here on the humid Gulf Coast, I also like to seal the ends of pressure treated, especially if there's ground contact, like my kids swingset legs. When you look at the clean crosscut, you can just see how deep the treatment penetrated. That's essentially raw wood in the center, just asking for termites and other wood devouring critters.
Great job. I recently installed a resin shed (couldn't pass up the clearance price - 50% off!) and had to weigh my options for the foundation. I considered installing a frame on a deck block foundation before finding a retired concrete pro who poured an 8x20 slab for $1600. My property sloped more than yours, and I have a wrist injury, so digging out the grade was not an option for me, but this looks much better than the frame option I was considering.
This is very similar (and sure a bit overboard) to a tent platform I've been planning, very glad to have this as a reference! Also love love the new property.
Thanks!
Great job Brad looking great. Can’t wait to see it finished
Great video. Lots of great info.
One thing I would change. Generally, when putting down sheet goods like plywood, I prefer to work across the sheet. Doing the perimeter first could leave a bow in the middle that you have to fight. Granted, it affects nailing more than screwing. But I still find it best practice to in essence roll it down while securing it.
I built a 12'x20' workshop and did a similar gravel pad foundation 14'x22'. I had about a 13" slope over 22' and the top 6" was compacted rock so it was not easy to dig out, especially doing it alone by hand. It turned out great and sure beats the option of a block foundation or paying for a slab to be laid. The gravel pad and workshop look amazing and added value to my propery so well worth all the hard work.
I used a block foundation for a 10 x 12 kit-style shed. Looked good,; worked good; for about 2 years. Then became worthless. And made we wish I had done slab instead. House built in subdivision circa 1950s; in what was USA's largest walnut orchard. Yeah. Critters! Clean every year with "everybody out" routine requiring removal of all contents, spaying 100% of interior with bleach/water solution, cleaning all contents with same solution. Next cycle, I'm tearing down old and using your slab style.
I have only seen this type of foundation once or twice and it is for balcony sheds.
Sheds where I live normally is on cinder blocks because it is easier and it is more often than not more than enough for what most people have in them.
Some bigger sheds have concrete slabs as a foundation since they know it will have heavy equipment in it.
The foundation you made are normally used where a house wants to have a raised land balcony/porch/deck where the difference of the lowest point on the ground and the underside of the balcony/deck will be is to big, they look super nice and many use the extra gravel space to have plants. But it is so much more expensive than a normal balcony/deck.... That foundation is also normally used for a middle of the lawn decking to just look nice, have good drainage, etc.
Excited about this series. I'm going to build a 10x12 in my yard for storage next year and this is helpful! Thanks for sharing
I'll make all the mistakes for you!
@@Fixthisbuildthat is the finale coming soon?
I appreciate those final rebar hits on beat with the music at 7:08.
All the buildings in our village,even the ancient stuff is built on raft style foundations,we are below the water table and have a huge lake right behind us, any timber on the ground,treated or not is done in just a few years. I used 24" lengths of 1- 3/4" rebar,to which I welded 4" squares to both ends,one end drilled for screws. These I then stood in my hole in the ground at 18" intervals so that only 9" was above ground level making sure the bottom square plates had at least 6" of gap under them and by using string lines to make sure the top plates were all level. I filled in around them to make my 'raft' and nothing has budged in 10 years or so and having insulated the floor timbers from the ground and the bracket via a rubber membrane between them( cut up truck mudflap😁) they are still in perfect condition.
Thanks Brad! I am planning my shed build. Mine too is 10 x 12 so this is a timely project for me. I have more slope in my back yard and after watching this, I am thinking of renting a tiller after I stake out the 12 x 14 plot. My thought process is tilling up the top soil might make it easier to move the dirt to level out the ground before I add the gravel base. Mine will be a spring of '24 build so I'll have some time to research this theory. Thanks again, and looking forward to the rest of the build.
I'd rent a tamper too, because you're right, the ground will be pretty loose after you run a tiller through it! 😅
@@serversurfer6169 That's a great idea. Thanks!!!
@@frankbiondo2476 I’m glad to help. Good luck! 🍀
I've built several sheds, decks, and fences over the years. You may consider doing a segment or a video on appropriate times to use nails vs screws. When I was first starting out doing DIY, I used screws for everything, but after a few fence sections fell over because of shear in the wind, I found there's a time and place for everything 😅. Can't wait to watch the rest of your build!
I'd love to see some data on ring shank vs screws in both shear and pull out strength.
Grk makes screws that are approved for framing. those are my go to
@@Fixthisbuildthattime to do a collab with Mathias. 😆
@@Russianmafia10 I see them called "construction" screws, vs "deck" screws. I typically get torx drive.
@@RossReedstrom construction screws are still not structural. They make special structural screws that are different.
Thanks for the video. I just built a pad exactly like this for my Standby Generator. However I didn't fill it to the top of the timbers. After seeing this I'm going to fill it up.
Thanks for showing how to build a shed from the ground up as this would help me immensely!.
This will be a great project and I'm absolutely sure that Brad will be a great instructor! Can't wait for the follow ons!
thanks, Jeff!
Something I was told about, after I did exactly what you did. Drill a 1/8 to 1/4 hole through the timber first. You can get 8-10" long drill bit for this. Then use the auger bit with the small hole as a guide for the tip of the auger. Cuts out the measurements and hoping you get the big holes from each side line up.
Great tip!
"pilot hole"
Good video, and even a small shed is a lot of work.
I just did a 48x16 deck with a 2 1/2' retaining wall w/gravel as water table made me second guess concrete piers. What I did was use Home Depot tool rental to save a ton of the hard work.
Sod cutter $69 for a 4 hour rental.
Sister had one of the Mantis type mini-tillers, so I removed a couple tines and had a 6-8" wide excavator.
$75 for a compactor rental.
Not sure the Threadloks were necessary, I would have just run 9/16 holes every 2-3' before placing the lumber and used some rebar to keep the lumber together.
Nice job, haven't finished the video so hope you're going to show the actual shed build.
Only critique is using deck screws....
This is awesome!! I need to figure out how to begin a similar job, but at 16'x20' in a yard that slopes...
I’ve done a lot of foundation in my life and I’ve never done it the way you did it! And you could if used a sds hammer drill to drive the rebar in the ground, and clear gravel doesn’t compact that good
Good job putting that together Brad! Watching you hand dig everything reminded me of my 14x16 "Covid" shed. The location I needed to use was so far out of level that I would have died if I had to hand dig it. Home Depot Rentals to the rescue with a one day rental of a mini bulldozer thingy with a nice big bucket to move dirt. We still had to hand tamp it because I blew my rental budget on the mini bulldozer. It was worth every penny though.
sounds awesome!
Brad this summer we redid our backyard and I hand poured and leveled 5 cubic yards of gravel and 11 yards of top soil all using the Gorilla Cart. Here is the crazy part...I really enjoyed it. It was hard work but was pretty rewarding. I do wish I'd maybe done it when the weather was cooler though.
I may be a masochist.
some of these commenters just don't understand...there can be a lot of value in just doing hard work. yes, I could have rented tools and done it 4x as fast, but I really enjoyed just putting in the work and seeing what I can accomplish with my hands and some basic tools
@@Fixthisbuildthat I feel that way whenever I see a home improvement project I completed: the setting sun shining off the painted garage siding that my kids helped me replace the rotted sill plate and repaint gives me a sense of pride that paying to have someone else do it does not.
I just did this for a 10x20 resin shed kit. Very stable and drains great. Renting a compactor was key. You’d be surprised how much the gravel will compact and make the base very solid.
yeah, I should have probably just rented one
@@Fixthisbuildthat Hey, but at least you don't have to hit the gym: biceps and lats already worked!
This is awesome. I wish I had used your method when I built my chicken coop. Especially like the gravel bottom.
Lol... as you were putting the gravel in by cart my first thought was I was going to suggest you get it delivered right to the foundation. I had the same problem years ago when I build my old shed. I was building it at my mother's house and I wasn't home when they delivered it. She didn't have them dump it where I needed it. Wasted a whole day just moving it over.
Of course, lots of people have issues with big trucks coming on their property. Make sure you don't have a leach field under where the truck needs to drive, but if you can get it to dump there it's the single thing that will save you the most time.
Gotta give you props for the tenacity with getting that last timber down.
Always enjoy your videos. Very well done.
@ 15:00ish.... It's all about that base, 'bout that base, more gravel.
Pretty massive work, Brad! But you did a fantastic job! Well done!!! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks, MC! 💪 💪
Great video and teaching as always... btw LOVE the shadow ghost deer in the frame that you added.
Also if you have a tiller or can borrow one use that to churn up the dig line to make things easier.
Great job my friend. Can't wait for plans. Good luck
This is interesting. I just did my shed. Used an auger to dig the holes. Threaded rod and cement and then two nuts to the right level tightened against each other. Metal plates on each one and then the timber right over each rod. Gonna do the same again next summer for a garden office.
that sounds cool
Why not just build it on concrete piers?
@@barneyhartman-glaser6972 well I probably could have but this is just a method that I used before that is relatively cheap and quick. All I have to do is dig the hole with the auger, pay for a delivery of concrete, pour and make sure the rod is level.
Maaaan, good work, I feel moving that gravel. I did a 15x25 gravel pad for a 10x20 shed this past summer. I anti-varmited under the base with some wire mesh stapled to the inside of the rim joist and buried into the gravel about 4 or 5". I put it on before sheeting the floor.
smart! I'm going to put something there but didn't consider burying it in the gravel, that's a great idea
Thanks for sharing this, Brad! I recently built an 8x16 shed, and I always like to have treated timber runners underneath in the event that I ever want to move it, it's ready to go. Once in place, I'll place pier blocks or solid cinder blocks/thick caps to keep the timbers away from the soil and have a hard surface on which to shim from. Also, using construction adhesive on top of all of your floor joists strengthens and quietens(yes, that's a word) the floor.
yes, I considered using construction adhesive, but since this will be utility storage I decided against it
Looks great! I would do something to coverup those ends so you don't have critters moving in under your shed!
That is a lot of work! I will have to take the frame with the gravel only!
Great video. Good explanations as it was being built.
Saved yourself a few trips to the gym. I never would have done all that "foundation" work if the shed was just being set on skids. But you have a nice clean space now and the drainage around there is great.
Hello Ghost deer 😊!
Looks like a stable foundation. When you were talking about the Gorilla Cart being a great tool to move gravel, I did wonder why you didn't have it dropped closer. Or why you weren't using a truck to move it. I don't have a truck, so I use my wheel barrow that has the 2 front wheels.
Yes, I vastly underestimated the time it would take to level the ground. And was not ready when gravel showed up
Looks good. I like the idea of mixing / pouring a concrete footer instead of 4x6 beams. My 2 cents.
Oh boy, a shed build! 😃🍿
This made me think of your build!
Very interesting to watch someone build a shed on their own. I'm considering adding a shed to my backyard in the near future and you may have just inspired me to hire someone to do it for me. I'm too old and incompetent to tackle that on my own.
Whats the pros/cons of building a foundation like you did versus pouring a concrete slab?
Excellent work. Your videos are always visually pleasing. 😃👍
Thank you so much 😀
I just did a very similar thing for a 12x18 shed and I spent more time on the foundation than I did the shed… so watching this was both traumatic and cathartic - I feel your pain 😅
Um. Am I the only one that saw the deer ghost at 9:42? Like I had to rewind three times because of how brief it was and making sure I wasn't losing my mind.
I built one for my 14x24 shed and did mot go to all your trouble. It is just as good to.
Quite refreshing to see you build something without all the fancy expensive tools, I've laid a few shed foundation in my back gardens and the work needed is real (so full credit for going the distance and digging it all yourself). I'm not sure a french drain style (ish - with the stone) is necessary but I am all for well over engineeing everything I build. Thumbs up from me.
it's refreshing seeing all these people telling me to use expensive tools vs talking about my expensive woodworking tools, lol
A big consideration to save your back…
Rent heavy equipment such as tractors and backhoes. They are available at the Orange or Blue stores as well as equipment rental stores. They’re for the larger pro power tools that are generally too expensive or specific to buy.
The perimeter encasing the ground can be made with large plastic landscaping ties which are more expensive but will NEVER rot.
We're used our "'Brad'Pacter!" It makes a big difference to learn from somebody who has a sense of humor and self awareness. The reason I learned to swap out a water pump in a VW Golf, fix a popped capacitor in an oldish TV, and swap out a ignitor in a gas dryer, (after breaking the first two) by pulling out the whole ignitor system, Kids! Dads gotta win!
can't wait to see the final product !
thanks!
Awesome! Video! Thanks for sharing!
I think I would have done everything differently? But this is a handy reminder of what it looks like when people have different ways of doing things 👌 You can buy longer framing screws btw
Very informative…..job well down!
Short and but ,a great job as normal 👏
Good video, thanks for sharing
You did a good job capturing audio in this one, Brad. It can be a real challenge outdoors.
Thanks! got a little windy there at spots, but that dead cat helped a ton
@@Fixthisbuildthat i don't think I'd have even known if you hadn't called it out. Great job!
Good to see another video. Always look forward for your content. Didn’t the new property have multiple out buildings. Haha never enough space.
Brilliant. Obvious but not obvious if know what I mean.
Most pre-made sheds have wooden bases that rot away due to damp.
Like the levelling idea.
Beautiful Job 🙏😀💕!
OK, a couple suggestions from experience (I helped a friend put in an above-ground pool many years ago).
1 -- it probably would have helped if you'd gotten a tiller to loosen up the soil beforehand. "Oh, but then it would be soft, and settle!!" Yes, which is why you then run a hose out to it (possibly not practical in your specific circumstance) and then water the ground down to "pack" it, especially using the tamper.
This leads to:
2 -- you can use a smallish 2x4 -- probably 2-3 feet long -- to gradually push some dirt to the opposite end (e.g., to "screed" it). Get it approximate when dry, and then you can scrape it better when wet, to even stuff out across the... ah... "board". This is probably easier than shoveling. You can even make it easier if you have two people and/or a small tractor/riding lawnmower -- you could have someone put weight on the board as the tractor pulls it slowly.THIS can make that levelling job far far easier. You could even rig something that let you stand and walk with it while keeping some weight on it as needed to find that nice middle ground that gets 2-4 inches at a time but not a hell of a lot more.
Water it down again when you get all the leveling done, so you can be sure it's packed tight. Having heavily watered it -- turned it into serious mud -- will help really really pack the dirt down. Do **NOT** underestimate the value of using *water* -- even if -- particularly if -- you're using a hand tamper, like that shown -- to get the water compact. Doing it when it is distinctly slushy mud allows the sand particles to flow around each other to get tightly packed. Obviously, you don't want too much water, you don't want it puddling on the top, but really "slushy". It's good if it splats a bit when it lands, then there's a puddle when you've hit it a couple times. Yeah, you're going to get dirty... That's half the fun, until you track it inside and the wife gets very annoyed, so prepare ahead of time to clean off outside. 😀
NOT applicable to this scenario -- for a circular bed (e.g., a gazebo or a circular above ground pool), you can use rebar to create a pivot point, and then push it around to scrape a circle level, using a beam level such as the one you show, to get it very flat very quickly, as the scraping will push stuff into the holes readily. Again, apply water routinely to turn it to mud, so it moves and packs readily.
You might have put some watershield -- tyvek -- down on the underside just because that part is going to collect dew and moisture?
I always take old chain-link fence or metal fence from the garden store and lay it underneath the gravel. It stops the woodchucks from building a home.
Nicely done and it will last a very long time.
Cant wait for the next video!
Did my foundation really fast. Hired a concert guy to lay a concrete foundation in one day! 😅 We get really high wind up on our exposed hill so I needed the weight.
00:00 🛠 Foundation's footprint is essential for a sturdy shed; check levelness, anticipate drainage, and account for variations in ground level.
01:08 🏗 Site selection impacts material usage; flatter ground reduces material needs and labor.
03:02 🛠 7ft level helps ensure evenness; digging trenches aids in leveling the gravel base.
04:17 🪨 Choosing clean, jagged gravel ensures proper drainage and compaction for the foundation.
05:16 🔨 Using a 2x6 as a stand-in for heavy 4x6 simplifies initial alignment for leveling.
07:32 🛠 Anchoring the foundation with rebar secures the base; adjusting for discrepancies ensures squareness.
09:32 🏠 Addressing family security via life insurance is emphasized; ethos simplifies the life insurance process.
10:41 🔩 Securing the timber base with screws and aligning dirt level ensures a stable foundation.
12:10 🌿 Weed fabric aids in preventing gravel from sinking into the soil; stapling gravel saves time and effort.
13:34 🚛 Proper gravel delivery placement saves time and effort in transporting gravel for the foundation.
14:36 📏 Screeding the gravel ensures a level surface before setting the wooden base.
16:01 🔨 Using 4x4 skids for the shed base facilitates potential movement; attention to skid alignment is crucial.
17:27 📐 Ensuring squareness in the shed frame is essential; checking diagonals aids in adjusting for squareness.
18:41 🔩 Warped joists require bracing to straighten; planning joist layout is crucial for plywood placement.
19:31 🪚 3/4 inch RTD sheathing for the shed floor requires secure screwing every 6 inches along the perimeter.
20:19 🛠 Chalking lines aids in screw placement for joists, ensuring a secure shed base.
Good job anchoring but I agree with other comments as should of keep the dirt away from the timber’s. But awesome job.
Yaay! Thank you for using a foundation that isn’t a concrete slab. I’ve wondered before if it’s truly necessary to have a concrete foundation for a shed
this option will be much much cheaper (and more work, lol). I have about $250 of materials in the gravel base vs close to $1000 if it were poured
Curious what the cost difference was for this vs a poured slab.
Brad,
Keep up the hard work, I appreciate how much work you put into your builds and videos! But let me speak for your back!
You own a massive chunk of land that has so much potential! But save your back and buy a tractor with a front loader or a buy skid loader. This would help so much with your projects especially because you work by yourself! You would also be able to get so much more done in a shorter amount of time! It would truly be a great investment! This also means more videos for us!😂
Do you need to add a protective layer to keep the wood from rotting due to contact with the soil?
Nice work on that shed foundation Brad. I would have put down either a concrete block or cement slab and then just purchased a prefabbed shed. Easy peasy..... 👍👍😉😉
That would be a very boring video, Steve 😂😂
You should do a concrete slab. Like a house. The reason is it will last a long time. And one more thing it might blow away.
I had some boards outside covered with plastic. The moisture from the ground started molding the bottom boards. Not sure how your plywood is going to keep from molding.
you might just get some holes dug 2'+ into the ground, put used phone poles in there for a free frame, and then lay baserock with a loader and back drag it. do you care if you have baserock around the shed and rampint the doorway? fill the holes for the poles with baserock too, you need no concrete. i made a shade awning this way and a greenhouse. 4' centers for poles will work with corrugated galvanized, and used stuff works.
Well be huge when it's finished 👍
I've honestly never seen a building foundation done this way. Around here most people would either pour a concrete pad, or probably use cinder block.
I've been known to overdue things a time or two
@@Fixthisbuildthat I think this may count as working harder/not smarter (no offense at all intended). Cinder block and concrete are much easier and bulletproof. Back breaking yes, but fewer days of it and it'll last longer.
@@jonathanzj620 Just did similar to this for a 46x16 deck except used retaining wall blocks. Got scared at how high the water table was for the proposed piers and made a snap decision in haste. This was only harder because he didn't just rent a couple machines from HD for under $200. That should last maybe 20 years before he'll have to replace some of the gravel rim lumber. Using PT would instead of actual GC (Ground Contact) wood is what everyone does, to sad effect after only 5-10 years. Here its probably mostly a non-issue since most of the lumber is going to see water drain away. Problem will be on the bottom of that lumber in contact with the ground.
I would have done a few coats of motor oil or wood preservative on that PT, especially the cut ends just for a little extra protection.
Also throwing some paint on both sides of any plywood before starting is a simple way to really extend working life.
But this should end up looking a lot nicer than a simple block base, and still a heck of a lot cheaper than a concrete pad.
@@boots7859 generally, this would be solved by digging deeper with the perimeter blocking. From a pressure treated lumber (I assume) standpoint I'm not sure how well that'd work.
@@boots7859 motor oil etc. is a very old school solution (yes I live where that is normal). Generally it is better/more normal to do block/brick with weather treatment membrane painting or equivalent and a French drain or equivalent if you're going that deep but you can certainly do whatever local code allows you to do. Just saying - in 40 years still have block/concrete foundations standing with zero issues.
nice job
at 9:43...was that the ghost of buck's past?
Yes it was 😂😂
Should always use a 1/2 lap joint at any corner or joint....
I wish I could pound rebar into my ground like that, but mine is so super full of sizeable rocks due to the glacial moraine. If I dig just a one foot cubed section of dirt, I'm sure to have at least 20 rocks in the 3 inch to 7 inch range, plus lots of smaller ones and frequently a bigger one. Every anchor I have tried to drive never makes it past 12 inches without hitting an impenetrable barrier. And forget trying the average auger.
Yeah, I only hit one rock (where I ground off the rebar) so I was lucky. It's pretty rocky here, but not like what you're saying
Curious as to why the 4x4 side is left exposed with the possibility of that providing shelter for skunks??
Try a long handle flat blade shovel on dirt work,occasionally dress with a file .
what is the function of the 4x4 skids vs just the 2x6 directly on the stone base? Is it for air flow? Or so the skunks can have a nice place to hang out?
Is the 4x6 PT that you used rated for ground contact? It looks a bit light on the chemical
I loved everything about this and it was educational! But I need to point out you have some kind of horse with horns ghost thing at 9:42 on the right side of the screen, I believe it is a good sign though 😅
I got a wagon like that for free on throw away week and I was in really good condition
how long would that pressure treated timber framing out the gravel base in the trenches last since it is directly in contact with the dirt?
Ghost of deer seasons past at 9:42.
Good choice on the term insurance. You get so much more insurance for your premium and while
universal and whole life are sold as investments they are poor vehicles to earn interest. Combining
insurance and investments is a lot like mixing oil and sand. It's easy to do and very hard to undo.
cool build, why not dry pour concrete base?
Love seeing you doing it manually, I'm sure your back is killing you. 😂
yeah, it's killing me alright
@@Fixthisbuildthat watching you gives me hope that I can do things around my property without tons of extra equipment and spending tons to rent it. Thank you for the inspiration!
My township requires a concrete slab under sheds. When ever someone brings it up in the neighborhood FB group because they are looking to have a shed built i bring it up as a complaint. It is amazing how people will defend the city in requiring the slab.