You could use this pulley method to stick clip up any sport route, always clipping the two bolts above you. Or you could convert it to a single-line system by tying a noose and pulling the slack, then toprope with two ascenders as you'd been doing. Pretty cool!
Thanks for making these videos. I’ve got some complimentary gear on the way in for TR solo (shunt & micro trax). Climbing with friends is great and my preferred option, but when they can’t make it, nice to be able to head out anyways.
Yep, I agree. I prefer climbing with friends, but it's hard to get schedules to line up sometimes. It's nice to be able to enjoy climbing on my own. It's a different kind of experience tr soloing too.
Hi Lisa, thanks for the videos. You were my primary inspiration how to set up top rope solo. I did a lot of research on diferent systems and at the end went ahead with the SOB. I did use is for 2 or 3 seasons , droped in it many times and it never failed me. Also use secondary stop rope device on the 2nd lose side of the rope. I find out that SOB doesn't need the rope to get weighted to move up itself. First few meters of climbing I need to pull the slack by hand , but then weight of the rope is enough that SOB moves up itself. This aloves me to climb side ways and greatly expands possible top rope solo routes. I use static rope for this, quite harder then my dinamic one which alovs the SOB to slip up . English is my second lenguage, sorry for the faults. good luck
Also I use SOB as my primary device because it catches inmediately and it doesn't need to pull the slack. Good when going thru few dificult, nonstop moves where I can't pul the slack. PS: Quite sweaty describing these things in secondary lenguage.
That's awesome! Thanks for the updates about your system. It's a good tip about the SOB not needing a weighted rope. I never tried it. Your English is very good for it not being your primary language!! Keep climbing and be safe!
Hi, thanks for writing. I'm currently attending flight school in Florida. There's practically no climbing here. So the soonest I'll be able to get some more videos together is next season.
A question as I’m trying out my setup at home - What’s your solution to transition to belay if you don’t make it to the top and the rope is under tension in the micro/shunt? (E.g if you fall on an overhang) .. Maybe I’d need a jumar/ladder setup for that scenario, or is there another option? (I suppose a GriGri for the ascent solves that, but then more hassle with having to lift the rope and have to pull with one hand all the time, loosing the elegant “auto-setup” of a micro+shunt)
That's a good question. In general tr soloing doesn't work very well on overhangs. I would recommend picking a different wall. But in the event of not being able to climb past a section / get back on the wall, I use a large sling attached by prussik above my grigri. Step in it with my foot and then take in the slack. Then re-engage the grigri and slide the prussik back up. I usually have the large sling with me to clean the anchors anyway, but it is awkward and tiring. If I want to come down, I just use the grigri to let myself down with 1 finger lightly keeping the ascender from engaging.
My favorite setup is the fixed rope at the anchor. One side of the rope is weighted (down at the bottom of the wall) and has the ascender. The other side of the rope is loose and has the grigri. As I climb the ascender slides on it's own and I pull the rope through the grigri. It's better than this setup because with self-belay it's twice as much rope to go through the grigri (the belay side and climber side slack). So with the fixed top it isn't so annoying to pull through the grigri and feels more like stopping to clip if you were leading. It's easier to set up a sling assist too, because I set that up on the fixed ascender side and allows easier stepping up and pulling slack out of the grigri side. Then I sit back on the grigri and slide up the ascender and prussik for another step. Hopefully this makes sense! Best wishes!
Actually I am going through flight school right now. That unfortunately means I don't have time to go climbing. I hope to get back to it next season. Thanks for checking on me!! :)
Your videos are terrific and very informative. My only negative is that I bought a Camp Ascender because I despise the way the Chinese knock off good free world technology. The SOB is identical to the Camp Ascender, leading me to suspect patent infringement. For the extra $30 I'd prefer to patronize the company that came up with the idea in the first place.
Additionally, I've come to prefer the grigri on the loose side of the fixed rope and the ascender on the weighted side of the rope. The shunt is heavy and at least mine had a lot of friction to drag up the rope. This system feels more natural to climb with. The stops to pull slack through the grigri feel like stopping to clip. Whereas the shunt tended to pull on me and I was always needing to slide it or adjust it. Great question, thx!
thanks for your reply, would it be possible to use the shunt for both sides of the rope and not tie in to one end and tie both ends to your anchor? or is this dangerous? also have you tried the rescucender by petzl? this looks like it moves up more freely on the rope all be it heavier
@@adammcneill8637 I haven't used that device. As for the shunt, it sounds like you are describing tieing the rope in the middle on the anchor and using the shunt on both sides at the same time. Yes, this can be done, but the huge caution with the shunt is how easily it can be released. I would not trust it alone because of that reason. I had a friend who had a set up like that, who slipped and grabbed his shunt and fell 20ft before he reacted enough to let go. He was fine but a bit shocked. That's why I like pairing an ascender type device, like the shunt, with the grigri - because they each stop you in different ways. :)
@@lisahisownfamily Right, I dig that. What I mean is the ones you stick clipped and had the rope running through them. How did you get those ones? Did you come from above?
Thank you for the great videos. The information you share and the inspiration you give is very much appreciated.
Thank you! :) I appreciate your encouragement and feedback as well.
That's was just neat... thanks for the video I loved it
Thank you, I'm glad you liked it!!
You could use this pulley method to stick clip up any sport route, always clipping the two bolts above you. Or you could convert it to a single-line system by tying a noose and pulling the slack, then toprope with two ascenders as you'd been doing. Pretty cool!
Yeah, those are good ideas. I do something similar on routes that are too long to reach from the ground. Thanks for posting!
@@lisahisownfamily I'd be really interested to see how you do that. Thanks for the vid!
me and many other people, we can t wait for you return, hugs Lisa // that was a great video
Thanks! Maybe this summer I'll have time to make some more videos.
Thanks for making these videos. I’ve got some complimentary gear on the way in for TR solo (shunt & micro trax). Climbing with friends is great and my preferred option, but when they can’t make it, nice to be able to head out anyways.
Yep, I agree. I prefer climbing with friends, but it's hard to get schedules to line up sometimes. It's nice to be able to enjoy climbing on my own. It's a different kind of experience tr soloing too.
Hi Lisa, thanks for the videos. You were my primary inspiration how to set up top rope solo. I did a lot of research on diferent systems and at the end went ahead with the SOB. I did use is for 2 or 3 seasons , droped in it many times and it never failed me. Also use secondary stop rope device on the 2nd lose side of the rope.
I find out that SOB doesn't need the rope to get weighted to move up itself. First few meters of climbing I need to pull the slack by hand , but then weight of the rope is enough that SOB moves up itself. This aloves me to climb side ways and greatly expands possible top rope solo routes. I use static rope for this, quite harder then my dinamic one which alovs the SOB to slip up . English is my second lenguage, sorry for the faults. good luck
Also I use SOB as my primary device because it catches inmediately and it doesn't need to pull the slack. Good when going thru few dificult, nonstop moves where I can't pul the slack.
PS: Quite sweaty describing these things in secondary lenguage.
That's awesome! Thanks for the updates about your system. It's a good tip about the SOB not needing a weighted rope. I never tried it. Your English is very good for it not being your primary language!! Keep climbing and be safe!
Hey, why did you stop posting videos...these are great!
I've just been super busy and haven't had time to put videos together. Thank you though!
What stick clip is that?
Hi from France, i hope you good. When did you post new vidéos?
Hi, thanks for writing. I'm currently attending flight school in Florida. There's practically no climbing here. So the soonest I'll be able to get some more videos together is next season.
@@lisahisownfamily hi, "pratycally no" is different than "no". 😋
Enjoy your flying school. And don t forget to add"i am a leaf on the wind" stiker .😉👍
Just discovered your climbing vids. Great info. Do you still climb?
I haven't been able to climb for a while due to my job. But hopefully next season I'll be able to get back out.
A question as I’m trying out my setup at home - What’s your solution to transition to belay if you don’t make it to the top and the rope is under tension in the micro/shunt? (E.g if you fall on an overhang) .. Maybe I’d need a jumar/ladder setup for that scenario, or is there another option? (I suppose a GriGri for the ascent solves that, but then more hassle with having to lift the rope and have to pull with one hand all the time, loosing the elegant “auto-setup” of a micro+shunt)
That's a good question. In general tr soloing doesn't work very well on overhangs. I would recommend picking a different wall. But in the event of not being able to climb past a section / get back on the wall, I use a large sling attached by prussik above my grigri. Step in it with my foot and then take in the slack. Then re-engage the grigri and slide the prussik back up. I usually have the large sling with me to clean the anchors anyway, but it is awkward and tiring. If I want to come down, I just use the grigri to let myself down with 1 finger lightly keeping the ascender from engaging.
My favorite setup is the fixed rope at the anchor. One side of the rope is weighted (down at the bottom of the wall) and has the ascender. The other side of the rope is loose and has the grigri. As I climb the ascender slides on it's own and I pull the rope through the grigri. It's better than this setup because with self-belay it's twice as much rope to go through the grigri (the belay side and climber side slack). So with the fixed top it isn't so annoying to pull through the grigri and feels more like stopping to clip if you were leading. It's easier to set up a sling assist too, because I set that up on the fixed ascender side and allows easier stepping up and pulling slack out of the grigri side. Then I sit back on the grigri and slide up the ascender and prussik for another step. Hopefully this makes sense! Best wishes!
Where did you go!!!
Actually I am going through flight school right now. That unfortunately means I don't have time to go climbing. I hope to get back to it next season. Thanks for checking on me!! :)
hello from France , why do you use a shunt with you grigri ?
It is just for redundancy. Some people use grigri only.
Thanks!
Your videos are terrific and very informative. My only negative is that I bought a Camp Ascender because I despise the way the Chinese knock off good free world technology. The SOB is identical to the Camp Ascender, leading me to suspect patent infringement. For the extra $30 I'd prefer to patronize the company that came up with the idea in the first place.
Hey Lisa, love your content! You should get back into making videos.
Thank you! I've been very busy with flight school.
@@lisahisownfamily Well that’s a pretty solid excuse alright. 😂 Good luck!
@@superdeluxesmell thanks 😁
I climb solo too and i have other chest harness. Is it interesting for you?
25 feet! Wow! Maybe use some cord to steady the clip?
why did you move away from the petzl shunt i saw you using in another video? that looked less hastle
At this crag, I cannot access the top anchors to set up the tr solo system. That's why I'm using the stick clip.
Additionally, I've come to prefer the grigri on the loose side of the fixed rope and the ascender on the weighted side of the rope. The shunt is heavy and at least mine had a lot of friction to drag up the rope. This system feels more natural to climb with. The stops to pull slack through the grigri feel like stopping to clip. Whereas the shunt tended to pull on me and I was always needing to slide it or adjust it. Great question, thx!
thanks for your reply, would it be possible to use the shunt for both sides of the rope and not tie in to one end and tie both ends to your anchor? or is this dangerous? also have you tried the rescucender by petzl? this looks like it moves up more freely on the rope all be it heavier
@@adammcneill8637 I haven't used that device. As for the shunt, it sounds like you are describing tieing the rope in the middle on the anchor and using the shunt on both sides at the same time. Yes, this can be done, but the huge caution with the shunt is how easily it can be released. I would not trust it alone because of that reason. I had a friend who had a set up like that, who slipped and grabbed his shunt and fell 20ft before he reacted enough to let go. He was fine but a bit shocked. That's why I like pairing an ascender type device, like the shunt, with the grigri - because they each stop you in different ways. :)
I thought that might be the issue. Thanks for your help
Cool.....so how do you get those beeners back?
Good question. After I've climbed back to the top, I clean anchors like normal and rappel down retrieving my gear as I go.
@@lisahisownfamily Right, I dig that. What I mean is the ones you stick clipped and had the rope running through them. How did you get those ones? Did you come from above?
Here's another video I did that shows how to clean the anchors at the top.
th-cam.com/video/-5LL8T2un70/w-d-xo.html
No videos in two years, I hope you are alright.
I'm fine! thank you for asking. I've been going through flight school and haven't had much free time.
Do you trust the chinese stuff ?
No, I recommend the CAMP ascender.
@@lisahisownfamily i have some from Petzl, but i would never trust the copy cats.