Converting Delta Saw to Metal Cutting
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ต.ค. 2024
- This is a several part series on slowing down the DELTA 14" bandsaw for metal cutting.
Part 1 TIPS #488 Pull Gear Speed Reducer
Part 2 TIPS #489 Gear Motor Reduction
Part 3 TIPS #490 DC Motor Reduction
Part 4 TIPS #491 VFD Motor Control
Watch all 1000 of my shop videos.
Thank you Mr. Pete for all the hard work you put into making these videos. I'm sure there are people watching that are learning a great deal from you.
You probably had no idea how many people think about doing this. But you'll also never know how many hours of frustration and wasted money you saved your viewers by making these videos.
Exactly. A metal cutting saw is way out of my price range, but wood cutting saws are ubiquitous and much, much cheaper.
@Yusuf Landyn what does this have to do with anything? Useless spam.
This series had good information. I appreciate the work involved in making them.
Thanks.
Thank you Mr. Pete. Great video series. You gave me lots to think about, pulleys, belts, motors, fpm, and gear motors. Your a teacher that talks to the subject, but you also get my mind wondering off and around the topic. Thank you.
I did indeed, enjoy this series, Mr. Pete. I was kind of surprised at how fast you could run the saw and still cut steel without ruining the blade. Thank you for all you do.
Yes, but not too fast or the blade will quickly fail
Thank You so very much for the video series on converting wood cutting bandsaws to metal cutting bandsaws. I'm in the process of converting a 12 inch woodcutting bandsaw to metal cutting. I was considering a saw speed of 100 inches per minute. However after watching your videos, it's apparent that 100 FPM is too slow even for steel and perhaps a speed of 150 FPM is more desirable. I plan to use a worm/gear box and a motor with two belt drives (motor to gear box, gear box to saw). The stand for the saw is large enough to accomodate this drive arrangement. Thanks again for the fine presentation and the information
👍👍
I bought an M42 14TPI blade for my Metabo 12" Wood bandsaw which runs at 1200 FPM. I fitted it and just couldn't wait to try it before attempting to gear it down. I told myself that it was necessary so I could compare results but really it was just because I couldn't wait.
I tried both Aluminium and mild steel, both 1" bar. I couldn't believe the results! It cut without effort with very little if any force applied, the sound was quiet and steady and the finish was comparable with a facing cut on the lathe!
The blade cost me £17 ($21) delivered. The amount of cutting I will be doing is minimal so I guess I'll just use it at 1200 FPM and see how long the blade lasts, I'll still keep an eye open for a gearbox but I think that a once redundant Bandsaw has now been given new life. Thank you for giving me the confidence to try this, I don't think you realise how helpful your videos are to so many people.
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You can't believe how much I learned and enjoyed this series of videos.It was fantastic, enjoyable, and very educational. Great job. :-)
Thanks
A roller coaster ride of insightful successes and failures. Great video. Thank you.
Thanks for this series. It shows the engineering involved to make a functional metal cutting bandsaw. If you search TH-cam for converting wood saws to metal you will find lots of videos and approaches, you took the time to show the pitfalls of the conversion. It really helped me because I was wanting to do the conversion. I was interested in this type of saw because of the size of the saw. If successful it could be parked in a corner similar to my horizontal HF saw. Instead I plan on using my portable bandsaw and stand.
Good series, thanks for taking the time and effort to make them much appreciated..👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Good series. I think I will keep my roll-in even though it takes a lot of room.
You have solved the mystery ,and made a dual use bandsaw out of a standard wood bandsaw Another victory for edutainment Mr. Pete Style
Thanks
Very detailed series. I have 1/2 HP variable speed DC motors for both my benchtop and horizontal mill. They allow me to vary speeds easily AND I can reverse the direction for taping. Very convenient!
Just curious where you got the DC motors? I'm on the look out for a 1/2 or 1hp DC motor for a wood lathe but can't find cheap sources. Apparently treadmills are one good source but I'm obviously looking in the wrong junkyards for those.
@@lemagreengreen Check local adds, for defective threadmills, motors are rarely the cause of failure, they should come cheap enough or free, also put up an add saying you're looking for one... You never know...!!!
Go on craigslist people advertise them for free if you haul them away, I've acquired four that way.@@pierresgarage2687
I got both of mine from Ebay. Dayton brand motors are very good quality and are permanent magnet motors not series wound. Good luck!
They probably have a real speed controller on them too. Those used in the video just dump a constant voltage so the motor slow down and stall when the power required increase. Real DC controllers increase the voltage to keep the rpm constant.
Good thing you did this, got one saw to put back up and running, this could give me ideas... ;)
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Arthur, this answers my original question, just shows I should watch all videos before asking questions lol
Man Lyle, I think you nailed it on this one. WTG on this pal.
Thanks
hello Tubalcain. most excellent presentation. even tho one would be hard pressed to find the variable speed assem bley you show here for the band saw conversion - Jeremy Fielding makes use of a 3\4 horse treadmill motor with a variable speed control that could very well be utilized in this set up you have here. The pulley attached is one that uses a ribbed belt to power the machine, and one could realize much success especially having the luxury of controlling hte speed using a potentiometer.
Mr. Pete, Thanks for this final Delta conversion. I mailed you several photos today of my conversion using a 1/2 HP 135 rpm 115 V Delta gear motor with step pulleys. My set up has delivered plenty of torque at low speed for over 20 years and works well on tool steel, aluminum, and wood. Feel free to share with your viewers if you choose.
Thank you, I will watch for it it
Think of it this way Mr. Pete Thomas Edison found how many ways not to make a light bulb until he found the right way. I really appreciate this info because I was thinking about turning my 90's model delta bandsaw into a metal cutting one. Which is a exorcise in futility because it was a bad saw at best for wood. So I was leaning towards just making one.
Yes
tread mill motors up to 5 HP are lurking in peoples basements and garages. Have used DoALL saws from High school to retirement, they are the best. I ended up with a Grizzly 16" for wood and a H.F. 4x6 for metal, cant afford a DoALL. Much appreciate your long suffering testing and experimenting.
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Excellent series and well done for the ages!
Just bought this saw for $100. It is like the old Enterprise meat grinders in that the parts interchange about 100 years back. Cute little saw and fun to clean up
Thank you for this series, sir! Gives me some ideas for my wood band saw, though I only have a 12" Craftsman.
Thanks
Nicely done. Great series, as always. Thanks, Mr. Pete! :-)
Thanks
excellent and timely series. thanks much
Good series! I have one of those DC motor controllers hooked to my Derbyshire watchmaker's lathe although the motor is way smaller than the monster you were using.
Enjoy your videos. I have a taiwan knockoff from the 80's and converted
it using a worm gear reducer coupled directly to the wheel.I also fabricated a "C" shaped riser that increases the throat depth to 28". Definitely not practical for the average hobbyist but I like it.
Hi Mr Pete last time i wrote a comment on this three part series converting a delta wood saw . I said i was going to release a video well i have lots of footage to do a three part video as a Tribute to you and still have plans to . but it's harder than it sounds so here's an update . I used a 14 inch Delta band saw made in the usa it douse have a webbed casting , 1 hp motor , in closed stand .I bought a 1hp GE 3ph motor , a VFD , right angle 10-1 dodge gear box w bell housing and had to make a new main shaft and install a front bearing to support it also fab. a cradle to mount the motor and gear box . then made two Micro V pulleys from motor to gear box then two 2 step Micro V pulleys for final drive . My low speed at the main shaft is under 30 rpm and high will get 3000 + FPM .
The saw works great and with the VFD and reversible 2 in. to 6 in. pulley sizes plenty of speed choses and added weight makes it more stable . it's a good little saw thanks for the idea and am looking forward to your new videos . Thanks JM
Sounds interesting. I will be glad to see that video when you get it done
Thanks for this series. Have really enjoyed it. FYI, the HF Chinese 14 band saw has a jack shaft built in. With stepped pulleys, its slowest speed is 568 fpm. I think it might be fairly easy to get it slower with a pulley change or two, if I ever wanted to convert it. Belt slippage is a big problem though as the pulleys get smaller and the center-to-center distances short.
Yet another good video. I think you may have even made a 4th video? The DC motor did loose a lot of torque at lower speed. I have a 1/2 hp DC motor that I didn't think would work, but maybe? Question: would the DC motor fit on the 90 degree gearbox from the previous video? If it would, a chain drive from the gearbox to the saw might work with no slip and the motor speed could be adjusted with the control. I know that my gearboxes are rated high enough because I called the factory, but you might not know if it's not marked. If it worked, the max speed could be fine tuned with the two sprockets ratio and then the slow speed might be half? (like 350 max / 175 low, feet per minute). Just throwing that out there, I don't know if it would work. Moving on to the next video. This is great...
I like the VFD. The pull gear is cumbersome and clunky. The VFD got the job done.
Many commenters have written that MrPete needs the right type of speed controller to make the DC motor work. What type of controller does one need and where would I get one? A would have tried using an inverter duty 3 ph motor and VFD, but I'm not sure how easy it is to find them used for a low price.
Great series, I now have options on which band saw to buy. I'm wondering if a 2hp tread mill 90-120vdc motor would have enough low speed torque.
Thank you for this series of videos. I have a Consew CSM1000 brushless DC motor with controller that I will be putting in my Craftsman 14" wood saw. I've been thinking about doing it for quite awhile. Unlike your DC motor, the Consew motor is only about 6" in length and weights about 5 pounds. It will easily fit in about any cabinet. Cheap too, only about $130.00 for motor with controller. BTW it has great torque at low RPM.
I would consider sending it to you to try on your band saw if you are interested. I will pay shipping both ways. I think the shaft size is 15 or 16mm, can't remember for sure. It is made to retrofit commercial grade sewing machines.
If you are interested you can contact me at whardin4719@gmail.com .
Thank you that is a kind offer. But not at this time. I am moving on in the next video to a three phase motor with a VFD.
@@mrpete222 Okay
I would use that, definitely. Its actually more than fast enough for a home shop.
Mr Peterson: if it has not been mentioned yet, cutting oil may likely destroy your rubber tires. I use Tapmatic cutting wax on my portaband with great results but these tires are a lit cheaper so I don't worry. It also works great for the carbide metal cutting saws and drilling stainless or aluminum. Tapping is also easier and there is little mess. I could not believe the speed increase in 6061 _10× faster on portaband. Hope this helps. Paul
Thanks
L510-101-H1 VFD and a 1hp 3PH motor ..Best route to take and not very expensive
Pulley belt slipping
thanks for the very nice series, I may eventually do something similar. The dc motor controllers I've dealt with, require setting the trim pots for the motor HP. Probably in the manual for the drive if you have one. There is usually a minimum and max speed, acceleration, and current limit and ir compensation.
Looks like I’ll try DC or VFD. Thanks for the experiment!
Very instructive. Thanks as always!
Mr Pete, saw a youtube video where a bandsaw was being built from scratch. He used a 1/2" variable speed a/c hand drill. its 8 amps and final drive geared. good approach i think.thumbswitch for speed range on drill. bet u got one.
I have experimented with treadmill DC motors. The ones I have range from 2.25 hp to 2.65. What's more interesting than the hp is that the speed controller has the ability to sense load through the current draw and adjust the torque accordingly. I paid less than $100 for each (including the speed controller)
Thanks
Thank you! Planning on converting my powermatic in the future.
A Powermatic was given to me yesterday. I plan on using it in future videos
Mr. Pete, excellent series, I wondered why you did not consider a reeves drive unit? You could get the full speed range without any swap outs
👍👍👍👍good series, it will be helpful to me. Thank you!
That was a big surprise! I was agreeing that the variable speed dc would stall until you reached mid range rpm.
You ´ve seen the video from Keith Rucker? He just bought a Doall. I believe, the best combination could be the DC motor with the pull gear. But that would use a lot of room. The controller is fine. But the pull gear would deliver the torque in slow speed. At the end, a switching gearbox would be great, but find one small enough, and have the space.... Thanks for all your great work, i enjoy it very much.
You should be able to change vary the rpm of a a/c motor also. You will need different starting circuit springs for the ciyntrifical starter and a capacitor to match the starting speed for the starter. Very easy to do. You could also run a motor thru a 90° reduction worm gear box. You can get a used reduction gear box for less than $200 and use your existing 120 volt a/c motor
Wonderful solution for the person that has only a wood bandsaw. I do have one request from all your viewers that use ear buds - PLEASE lower the volume when you turn/cut/machine work... we want to be able to hear what you say and playing constantly with the volume button doesn't allow it...and if we don't do that we won't hear a thing in no time...:)
I have this same setup on my valve seat and guide machine, however it uses a 5:1 gear reduction box on it. I don't know what kind of dc drive controller it uses. It will drive a tap at 15 rpms with no loss in torque, or minimal loss. If your dc motor is a 56c face frame, you could probably take the gear box off of your ac motor and install it on your dc motor.
Thank you I really enjoyed this series of videos. I have recently retired thus with time to work on my projects. I am learning to work in both timber and metal. Currently I am cutting metal by hand. I have a fourteen inch cast iron frame band saw -setting it up for both metal and wood is an interesting proposition. Who is the Australian you alluded to? In Australia old machinery in hard to find and both new and old is expensive. I have never seen a place like where you bought the pulleys at such low prices. Timber and metal is also expensive here.
Thank you for commenting. Everything is fairly cheap or reasonable here
What about pouring and milling your own custom pulleys?
I’ve cut aluminum and brass many times with wood cutting saws including my tablesaw, however you do need to use a finer tooth blade than with wood. We had a big Grob saw where I used to work that had a blade welder and grinder built in, also had a counterweight system that used a cable setup that could be hooked around your workpiece so it would self-feed.
Thanks
Hi Mr pete
I'm now restoring an old atles 912 power King bandsaw and plan on fitting a reduction gear box to for metal cutting and have been watching your videos on the subject, excellent viewing, just have a quick question 😉 do you recommend tyres on the wheels or not???
Keep up the good work 👏
Many thanks Glyn
Yes, use tires
Besides the pull-gear, of the 3 methods we were shown, I think the compact jackshaft was the one with the most desirable, because it didn't lose torque, and it wasn't prohibitively expensive. It does however, require the most work to construct.
Great video as usual. One idea Could you use toothed belts for the drive belts? They would not slip as easily under load when using smaller dia pulleys.
Yes, I wish I had some. But I am just using what I have in my own shop without spending money for experimenting
I'm working on a powermatic 14" conversion to metal cutting. my plan is to combine dc motor with speed controller and a gear reduction (homemade pull gear).
Just a simple question, how is the DC motor wound? Traction motors are series wound and have the highest torque at the lowest speed.
Master Pete, can you do a video about your metal band saw?
Mr Pete would it make a difference if there was a substantial fly wheel on that D.C. Motor for low end torque ? By the way great series thanks
My saw has the right angle drive is it still OK to use for wood
keith rucker has just got a doall band saw like the one you showed in the the cataloge
I think there are more people trying to this than you think. I have an old Craftsman 3 wheel bandsaw that I'm trying to slow it down enough to cut metal.
This was an interesting but somewhat painful series to watch. As you have found hitting the sweet spot of blade speed and torque at the blade is no small feat. That "torque at the blade" is a critical factor, in many of your configurations you were not taking (for lack of a better term) "leverage" (it's the ability of the work on the saw blade to overcome the motor speed/motor pulley/saw shaft pulley combination) into account. When you had the gear motor set up running and you were using a very small pulley on the saw shaft and a larger one on the gear motor that is simply never going to work, it's not even a good setup with chain and sprockets because of the leverage the large band wheels have so much leverage on that small pulley. That leverage is why when you tightened the belt up and it was "working" after a fashion the motor was getting warm because the motor is pulling a lot of amps to overcome the leverage built into the drive setup.
A worm gear reducer will work just fine but this leverage factor needs to be taken into account. the saw drive shaft pulley needs to be the large pulley in the setup and it should be a relatively large fraction of the band wheel. I've found it should be at least 1/3 the size of the band wheel and more is better. This is all dependent of course on the motor speed and gear reducer ratio, you never want anything faster than 1725 with slower than that being better because slower nameplate rpms are where you need to be to get all of the torque and leverage factors working for you a low rpm motor with a high ratio gear reducer will give a lot better "in the wheelhouse" rpm/torque/leverage balance.
For the most part a saw that is maximized for metal cutting will only ever be a marginal wood cutting saw because the drive setup needed will never allow the high wood cutting blade speeds. that is why the old Deltas had the transmission with what is basically a back gears setting for cutting metal. Even with a VFD when you have a saw that is maximized for metal cutting when you set the VFD to double or even more your 60hz you will be pushing your drive system to the maximum to get marginal wood cutting speeds.
I have a Rockwell 21" saw that originally had a mechanical transmission that was worn out when I got the saw. I set it up with a vfd and a high ratio gear reducer and 1725 rpm motor and the appropriate sized pulleys and it is an excellent metal cutting saw now. It will do a passable job of wood cutting but that's just now what it's meant to do.
If I'm not wrong, you could increase the stator current so it will have more torque at lower RPM. To increase the stator current you need to change internal wire configuration and maybe drive the stator circuit independently from rotor wiring
Do you know how much power your DC supply is furnishing the DC motor?
THANK YOU...for sharing.
If you added a flat idler with a longer belt the small sheave would grip more of the belt. Just Subscribed
Good idea
if slipping was your only issue, you could have increased the wrap by using a little longer belt and adding an idler.
i am confused-- i have hooked up lots of true DC motors for industry, and they had the same torque throughout their speed range.
lol "wallowed out" and/or out of round pulleys have the side advantage of converting standard tooth pitches into variable pitch. ;-)
I amusing a treadmill motor DC, no issues, but I have a higher gear reduction. I'm using V belts , but automotive type thin profile serpentine multi-rib belts allow much more wrap by placing idlers where deeded to get good wrap around small diameter pulleys. "Thin" belt profiles allow "serpentine" routing wheres thicker styles "V" belts wont allow it ("back bending") etc.........What was used for the DC POWER SUPPLY in this vid...or does the control box have that internally?
Yes lol
great details and well presented. Did you consider the pull gear with the DC motor ?
Boelube is great. I keep it in the top drawer of my toolbox
I well remember the electric welder on the Do-All band saw. The machine is very heavy. Not intended for the home shop.
great video sir how did the blade look after the higher speed ?
It did not last long
I think 2 jack shafts and 4 pullies this would all work out.
Did the school build a new and improved shop with bigger better stuff or did they scrap the program?(which would be sad)
The latter
put the pull gear on the DC motor that would be interesting to see
I converted mine using a jackshaft andthe biggest and smallest pulleys I could find. It cuts steel with authority but it won't cut stainless because the blade is shot in a couple of minutes.
You were need a bimetall blade. .
I vote for the planetary gears on the DC motor going to the 12” pulley and sheet metal Gard
Would a higher HP dc motor help with the stalling ? Maybe a 2 or 3 HP
All I have is 1/2 hp
I have gotten some treat mills with 2 and 3 HP dc motors with them around my area I usually get them for free. People buy them with good intentions but end up giving them away . They also have large heavy steel flywheels on them not sure if that would help with the stalling also . Plus they also have metal frames good for projects you know how expensive metal is today to buy . Good luck with you experiment always enjoy your videos
Sure would be handy to control speed with a knob!
I'm confused. Pully size is all about ratios. If you need saw input shaft speed of 100, and output of drive is 300, You will need 1:3 ratio. or 3" x 9" pulleys drive and driven. or 2 x 6", or 4 x 12"
Thanks for all the frustrating hard work but ... I personally don't like the mixing of wood and metal on the same saw and since I seldom work with metal, I'd probably work with angle grinders and hacksaws on those occasions I would need to use metal.
can belt slippage not be helped by larger pulley with more belt pulley contact ? pulleys are your ratio for speed, but also can not go too low diameter because of slippage ?
A idler pulley might help...
It appears you can only get so much work out of a single old dried up belt that gets stored for years in an attic. If you do too much of the reduction by gears before the belt drive, then you have to have a lot of pulley-belt surface. Alternately, dual or multiple belts as seen in automotive or industrial applications.
I used to work at a Exxon service station when I was in high school. I used to cringe sometimes selling some old belt or tire that had been in the shop for who knows how long, sitting way up high on the wall where it gets so hot every day
May I be the first to say good morning, Mr Pete.
Kind of a misnomer calling that box a speed controller, although I know that's what they tend to be called. It's more like an effort controller and the speed varies a bit according to the selected effort. Something called a speed control should control the speed, like a governor on a tractor engine.
Thanks for sharing sir...
Nice Video with practical information. A frequency converter will not work perfect. I have converted my lathe from 1 fase to 3 fase with a frequency converter. I have torque form 25 hz and up. Below there is not enough torque to do real turning work. Advantace in my case is that the 3-fase motor has the same size as the old one.
There should be a torque compensation setting in the control that will boost the output voltage slightly as the output current increases. What happens is that the IR voltage drop on the motor results in lower effective voltage, which slows the motor down. You can't make the compensation complete, or you'd risk the control/motor running away with positive feedback.
Hooking a voltmeter across the motor should prove illustrative. Better yet if you have two meters, one in series to measure current and a second in parallel to measure current.
None of the pots are marked torque.
@@mrpete222 A little googling turned up the manual. What you want is the "IR Compensation” trimpot:
12.6 - IR COMPENSATION TRIMPOT (IR)
The IR Trimpot sets the amount of compensating voltage required to keep the motor speed constant with varying loads. If the load does not
vary substantially, the IR Trimpot may be set to a minimum level (approximately 25% rotation). The IR Trimpot is factory set to provide 3 Volts
of compensation for 90 Volt DC output controls and 6 Volts of compensation for 180 Volt DC output controls. To increase the amount of
compensating voltage, rotate the IR Trimpot clockwise. To decrease the amount of compensating voltage, rotate the IR Trimpot
counterclockwise. See Figure 10 on page 11.
Notes: 1. The correct value Plug-In Horsepower Resistor must be installed for the IR Compensation to operate properly. Calibration of the IR
Trimpot is normally not required when the proper Plug-In Horsepower Resistor is installed. 2. Excessive IR Compensation will cause the motor
to become unstable, which causes cogging.
To Recalibrate the IR Trimpot:
1. Set the IR Trimpot to approximately 25% rotation.
2. Run the motor unloaded at approximately 1/3 speed and record the RPMs.
3. Run the motor with the maximum load and adjust the IR Trimpot so that the motor speed under load equals the unloaded speed recorded
in step 2.
4. Remove the load and recheck the RPMs.
5. If the unloaded RPM has changed, repeat steps 2 - 4 for more exact regulation. The control is now compensated to provide minimal speed
change with varying loads.
Thanks Paul--I will try that--and I now have the manual
I think I am missing a part of the DC motor situation. I learned, and the Internet confirms, that a DC motor has maximum torque at zero speed. As speed increases torque decreases.
his "speed controller" only provide enough voltage(power) for the motor to turn at a set rpm without load. As soon as he start cutting, the power delivered doesn't change but the torque required does, so the rpm decrease. Proper DC controllers increase the voltage to keep the rpm constant, so the torque is there.
I know this has nothing to do with your video post today
I had a question about an south bend 9a lathe
And was wondering g if there was a source for the bushings for the motor pulley and shaft
Thank you for your time to put these great videos together
Thank you for your time to answer my question
No, I do not know of a source. You'll have to make your own
High amps low volts to get torque and not stall the motor at low rpm. You should be able to adjust the controller internally for that and not affect amps at high volts. It is the same principle as how a locomotive operates. High amps low volts at low speed and higher volts as speed picks up and eventually amps drop off to nearly nothing as the load against the motor lessens.
This would be a better option, 1 Hp Reeves drive, no belt change required and with a 2;1 pulley setup would give you wood and metal cutting
Thanks for this series, I'm going to have to do a conversion myself. I think the ideal way for me would be a 3ph motor and VFD setup like your DC motor setup but go with a 2hp motor or similar. Only issue with that is the VFD is almost as expensive as the bandsaw. and together, even with a good craigslist find, the motor and VFD would be. So I think I'm going to end up building a pulley box that mounts to the current motor mount and has pulleys to reduce the speed as needed. I can use this site: www.blocklayer.com/pulley-belteng.aspx to figure out the pulley sizes I need with less trial and error. Of course I'll post my progress, will likely be one of my first projects for the new year.
About 6 months ago I started a mission to use a treadmill motor to power my bandsaw and drill press etc... I have yet to do either one BUT so far I am perplexed about the torque and the slipping with the DC motor(mr petes tests) but makes me wonder about treadmills and the torque needed to not bog down when a adult gets on the treadmill...however treadmills from what i have found use flat belts...more surface area?
Try Jeremy Fielding th-cam.com/video/h1E4PkHS364/w-d-xo.html.
Yeah i have watched him...and many others ...thanks
I have noticed that tread mill motors have a large heavy steel flywheel on them that might help with the stalling not sure .
I put a 2hp treadmill motor on my 10 inch rockwell and used the speed sensor and control board as well. The speed sensor detects the load and ramps up the power to maintain the speed you set it at. It works quite well
That motor should have the same torque at low speed as it does at high speed, the problem is in your control box
Exactly. That's the most frustrating part of these videos!. DC motors can have an insane amount of torque at 0 or low rpm provided a real controller.
helluva lot of work....I tried ....pulleys -belt more pulleys more belts thanks