The one KLR 650 valve cover guide that spells out the directional cheat code. lol It took me forever, I almost gave up after the other videos. Fresh at it today and pulled it off, finally. Thanks.
Thanks for the tips, this is great to watch before opening the manual. The factory manual provides little when it comes to tips and tricks. This made the job that much easier.
Thank you very much for making/posting this video! I just bought a KLR and suspect the clearances have never been checked. I am sure it will go as smoothly as it did in your video ; )
I want to thank you for this video and the others of KLR. It's gives me a good idea what I'm going to do. It's a good pace and you have friendly voice. ;)
If the 250 valve system is the same as the 650, then the .008 and .009" is between the cam and the valve shim when the cams (egg-shaped things) point AWAY from each other: exhaust pointing to the front of the bike and the intake point to the rear of the bike.
The wire I mention at 1:25 is the temp gauge wire, yes. You likely have a short on that wire (to ground). The fan runs off a different switch, which is on the bottom of the radiator on the left side of the bike. This is an analog switch (fan on, fan off).
Geez, That is a freaking LONG description! Thanks a lot for this info, and the others. Good stuff! Hey, by the way, it would help if you got yourself a tripod, some of the sections are so bouncy I could not see what you were talking about, and I need as much detail as I can as I am new to this bike. Thanks again! Really great info, thanks for your time and efforts!
Kind of lost you at one point. It's where you figured out that the engine was not at TDC. So you said to remove the caps on the side cover with a large screw driver or quarter. But then it skips to checking the valve clearances. How did you get the engine to TDC?
If you get to a leaf that you can't slide under the cam, try the next one smaller; if that on can slide underneath, that's your measurement. Sorry for the laggy response time.
I just took the valve readings as follows, all of them look out of spec Inlet => Left : .004 , right : .003 Exhaust=> Left .0015, right - .003 I took these readings with the left cover open since I was changing the doohickey at the same time , I put the generator temporary to see the engine top end so that all the cams were pointing outwards. What shims I should use to bring them back in spec?
Maybe it's a stupid question..=) But do I have to drain the engine oil before I start the valve check procedure? I have a very little experience working on bikes =)
i have a question ...rigth at 1:25 you mentioned a temperature wire is that the gauge reading one? my klr always read hot but fan works when suposed to and i am not boiling the water you think i have a problem with that wire?
On the CDI ignition systems and timing advance for ignition; how is advance achieved. Is there a centrifugal weight/vacume advance? I don't think there is a revolution sensor. I am mostly just curious about how functions.
i take that back! it doesnt read always hot ,it warms up to top red and fan comes on, i havent boil the water like i said but i dont think this is normal for a 2003 with 14 hundred miles .any ideas?? aprettiate your help !!!
i have a klr 250 and have not done the valves...they are supposed to all be between .008 and .009 inches, and that is the area between the cams looking identical on each side?? and the cams, the egg looking things are supposed to be pointed down??? i am a noooooob to engines!
Whoa, sorry, I didn't see this comment earlier. The video wouldn't have gone over the time limit if I had should that part. In the description, there's a paragraph a little more than halfway down that describes what to do.
The one KLR 650 valve cover guide that spells out the directional cheat code. lol It took me forever, I almost gave up after the other videos. Fresh at it today and pulled it off, finally. Thanks.
Thanks for the tips, this is great to watch before opening the manual. The factory manual provides little when it comes to tips and tricks. This made the job that much easier.
Tim2Wheels video is the best I've seen on this. For anyone wanting more detail
I should have also added that I appreciate you taking the time to do the video. VERY helpful.
Very helpful video! I appreciate that you have some grease on your hands too.
I'm about to get my first KLR 650, doing a cross-USA ride in October
Thank you very much for making/posting this video! I just bought a KLR and suspect the clearances have never been checked. I am sure it will go as smoothly as it did in your video ; )
My favourite bit was where you took the camera away for the most important bit of the valve cover removal 😄
Seconded all the thanks and compliments, you're a great contributor to the KLR community.
I want to thank you for this video and the others of KLR. It's gives me a good idea what I'm going to do. It's a good pace and you have friendly voice. ;)
If the 250 valve system is the same as the 650, then the .008 and .009" is between the cam and the valve shim when the cams (egg-shaped things) point AWAY from each other: exhaust pointing to the front of the bike and the intake point to the rear of the bike.
The wire I mention at 1:25 is the temp gauge wire, yes.
You likely have a short on that wire (to ground).
The fan runs off a different switch, which is on the bottom of the radiator on the left side of the bike. This is an analog switch (fan on, fan off).
Geez, That is a freaking LONG description!
Thanks a lot for this info, and the others. Good stuff!
Hey, by the way, it would help if you got yourself a tripod, some of the sections are so bouncy I could not see what you were talking about, and I need as much detail as I can as I am new to this bike. Thanks again! Really great info, thanks for your time and efforts!
Up left down right cheat code.
Thanks, no other video had that dialogue.
(Finally got it out)
Very good video! This helped clarify a few things since I'm doing the same thing on a Ninja 250, but the concept is close to the same.
Excellent video. Have you removed the carb before? I'd like to take mine off and clean it.
Thanks great detail, I wish I would have seen your video before my first shim replacement.
No. If you have a new bike, you should check the valves at or around the 500 - 600 mile mark, then roughly every 6,000 miles.
Yes, I have. Many times. It isn't too hard. I'll make a video when i take it off next time. Not sure when that'll be, though.
Kind of lost you at one point. It's where you figured out that the engine was not at TDC. So you said to remove the caps on the side cover with a large screw driver or quarter. But then it skips to checking the valve clearances. How did you get the engine to TDC?
great video! thanks a lot for your work!! any suggestions on doing a 2007 with the little nubby thing between the rear bolts (how to get the head off)
Every 6,000 miles, after the initial 500 mile check up.
There's a table in the owner's manual with maintenance intervals for reference.
I wanted one of these... but now I know why in all my years of riding and racing MX I NEVER had a 4 stroke.... so much for that.
So how do you get the engine top dead center? It seems like he was just about to show how to in the video, but skip ahead...
If you get to a leaf that you can't slide under the cam, try the next one smaller; if that on can slide underneath, that's your measurement.
Sorry for the laggy response time.
I just took the valve readings as follows, all of them look out of spec
Inlet => Left : .004 , right : .003
Exhaust=> Left .0015, right - .003
I took these readings with the left cover open since I was changing the doohickey at the same time , I put the generator temporary to see the engine top end so that all the cams were pointing outwards. What shims I should use to bring them back in spec?
Possibly a bad (or on its way out) fan switch.
Does it do this even when you're moving, say, on the highway, or just letting it idle?
Maybe it's a stupid question..=) But do I have to drain the engine oil before I start the valve check procedure?
I have a very little experience working on bikes =)
You know your stuff! Did you ever replace a blown head gasket on a car?
i have a question ...rigth at 1:25 you mentioned a temperature wire is that the gauge reading one? my klr always read hot but fan works when suposed to and i am not boiling the water you think i have a problem with that wire?
Thanks for giving back. I feel like I should pay you for that!
On the CDI ignition systems and timing advance for ignition; how is advance achieved. Is there a centrifugal weight/vacume advance? I don't think there is a revolution sensor. I am mostly just curious about how functions.
Awesome instructive video! Had a problem with the fourth bolt, but your idea is pretty sweet. Just wish you had a tripod for your camera :D
No problem!
Glad I could help.
i take that back! it doesnt read always hot ,it warms up to top red and fan comes on, i havent boil the water like i said but i dont think this is normal for a 2003 with 14 hundred miles .any ideas?? aprettiate your help !!!
i have a klr 250 and have not done the valves...they are supposed to all be between .008 and .009 inches, and that is the area between the cams looking identical on each side?? and the cams, the egg looking things are supposed to be pointed down??? i am a noooooob to engines!
how do you know when to check the valves
hey dude do you put the silicone on 1 side only or on both sides?
Whoa, sorry, I didn't see this comment earlier. The video wouldn't have gone over the time limit if I had should that part.
In the description, there's a paragraph a little more than halfway down that describes what to do.
Where do you buy the shims? What size? Do you buy them after you measure or is there a kit?
I bought the shim kit from Arrowhead Motorsports (www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/parts_frames.html), part number 20-4610.
ghotioutofh2o Thanks!!
PLEASE TRANSLATE TO SPANISH LENGUAGE WITH SUBTITLES ,THIS VIDEOS ARE VERY HELPFUL.THANKS FOR THE VIDEO
very nice ! thanks to share this with we all :)
No, you do not need to drain the oil.
If you drop something down the engine, it might help to find it. But just don't drop anything. :-)
Thanks kindly, great video!
thanks!
thank you
Okay, thanks a lot mate =)
Good video. It's too bad you couldn't put the camera on a tripod or get someone to hold the camera for you.
do you have to check the valves every 500 miles??
Not selfish. God will aways bless.
👍🏻🙏🏻😀
Well I certainly wouldn't turn down a donation!
aaaaaarrrggh!!"
Holy Shit, what a pain in the Ass compared to a DR 650 ‼️‼️👎
Thanks!
Thanks!