Just completed my 5” build with a Apex EVO, and putting together the build video now. Love it so far! Although it was missing one of the stack bolts IIRC - kind of annoying
Apex user here. Been flying it for years. I understand the stack screws rant, I thought about it when choosing frames. Never ever in all this years I had to touch those screws.
One note about running the O3 air unit. If you use their included screws and tighten them all the way, the air unit will bend. Super dumb honestly since they have so much bs on their website about isolation of the video transmitter and then the mounting actively damages your 200$ transmitter. Theres 3d printed isolaters that add enough material to prevent this but its so dumb that it wasnt a consideration and you have to get something that isnt included with the kit.
@@DanoFPV Yea the LR Evo and regular dc Evo are exactly the same aside from the arm length. I built mine so I can hot swap the arms and motors to change prop sizes.
I switched from the aos 5.5 to the apex frame. The aos arms suffered from delamination and broke. So after lots of battery packs and changing many arms, the rest of the frame also started loosing stiffness. I guess it was delamination too. The apex has been more durable and better resonance in the long run. Also I get what steele means about the aos frame, when he said why aren't the arms together in the middle of the frame. It just makes the frame so much stiffer in the long run. No hate for chris rosser. I appreciate all his work. But there is also some aspect where I think he doesn't get the part of real life testing. It's not just ideal thrust stand with motors. I totally agree with KabaFPV about motors
The aos 5.5 had a bad habit of loosening up the stand-off bolts and this will cause the continuation of delaminating your described. I had to stop buying them because of this.
Hey JB! All your gripes with this fantastic frame is what I aimed to fix with NordFPV Nord5 HD, a frame you have at home! You should try that one. Just follow basically the same steps as with this one ;)
When you promote the Warranty for this frame. Just know it is a JOKE. They will replace the single part, and you will have to pay shipping. If you pay shipping, you might as well buy it from your favorite online shop. So don't buy it for the Warranty because it isn't worth the paper it is written on. Bardwell knows this. 🤷♂️
Are you going to review (re review) the current tbs source one as a possible contender for good/best budget frame with all these other frames fresh in your mind?
For the stack mounting bolts I have changed out the nylock nuts before because they allow a bit more vertical space and also because you can tighten them without taking the frame apart. Usually the friction on the screw against the carbon is enough to keep it from spinning while you tighten the nut. I just usually add a little Loctite and then use nylock nuts on top of the stack if there is room. Also the note about flipping the camera mounts, I dont see how flpping the inserts is any different to flipping the aluminum bracket? Does it not accomplish the same thing?
The kit includes the plate for electrically isolating the Air Unit - which makes sense to me, from my experience with analog FPV. a few years back (I'm just getting back into the hobby - maybe). But DJI's install guidelines says, get as much contact between the AirUnit and the frame as possible so the frame can act as a heat sink. So you want an electrically non-conductive, but very heat conductive isolating plate. Does such a material exist?
I have never flown an Apex until ImpulseRC dropped this newer version, and I fell in love with just the aethetics. Bought 2 and built carbon copies. BBB has been helping me get the tunes ironed out, as I was having a weird motor noise/desync issue. Even with the tuning problem, it was and has been the best flying frame I have ever touched, and this is after around 50 other popular fpv frames over the last 3 or 4 years. I am hooked on the Apex Evo.
You can crank those impulserc apex pressnuts. Ive only stripped one out of 4 apexs. It was because i used the same bolt to pull in 2 frames worth of pressnuts. On the last one, the m2.5mm wore out, stipping the press nut. They are deffetly stronger than others.
Is it possible to convert the X-frame to a DC frame? Asking because I heard that the deadcat has original Apex 5 inch in front and original Apex 6 inch arms in the back.
One reason is has such good resonance performance is the bottom plate is cut at 45 deg from the carbon layup. When assembled its a more isotropic structure than most.
For me it is the best freestyle frame. It has accomplished this f.e. by sacrificing the easy access to the stack screws. Usually you never change them, unless you change the electronic component category. So that is fine. You could state though, that is is a more simple design compared to others. Like having a XT60 Mount or LED cut outs ... . But I still go for the Apex Frames! Durability is perfect enough.
If vbat accidentally gets to the frame it can damage the air unit (or the FC uart..or both) if its ground is connected to the frame, so the insulating plate would protect you in that case.
Is there a structural integrity thing with counter sinking a bolt into a carbon fiber lay-up? It looks great and protects batteries etc but seems like that would weaken that bolt/plate connection 🤔
Just stripped two of the inner four pressnuts when tightening upper and lower main plate together. Didn’t even tighten it that much. Very strange. Don’t know how to fix it from here, hope it’s not 117€ into the bin 😔
One more comment about the warranty, my frame is about 3 years old, warranty already expired, and I never broke anything. I recommend using some 3d printed protections on the arms and it will last a lot more. Downside on my opinion is not much protection for the motors another reason to use some tpu protection there.
Great review Joshua! Been flying Apex since it came out- that and aliens are my all time favs. Haven’t built anything new in a while- think I’ll build another 🙂
I swear my timing. I just built an apex evo the other day and i scrubbed for that manual, couldn't find it. Built it and messed up by not dry-fitting. Stack didn't fit, so I had to desolder 2 motors flip the top plate take off those annoying stack bolts . Was rough, but i still enjoyed this build. Was my first build too.
I'm flying the 7" version of this (LOVE IT), but my biggest disappointment when buying this, especially considering the price was that it doesn't have chamfered edges and the press nuts weren't pre installed. Apart from that, it's an amazing frame that's well worth the money.
I have the same. Why on earth do you think it's "worth the money"?? It's an overprices, thoughtless re-hash of their 5". Parts come into a bag. Hardware is thrown together. It's a fucking joke. Compare this to something like a speedybee kit.
Completed my second build ever and used the Apex Evo; definitely a nice kwad. Apex evo, DJI O3, RCinpower GTSv4 1950kv, Speedybee F7 stack. "Assembly guide" however was a bit of a joke. Also how they have just a big mess of hardware all in one bag.. too lazy to separate or organize it?
Been flying the Apex Evo for the last couple of weeks as my main quad and I absolutely hated building it, and hate working on it. If I were to build another one with o3, I'd use a 20x20 stack to make room. The o3 just takes up so much of the already very limited space. Also, couldn't find a good way to run two battery straps, but luckily I had an extra ummagrip in my parts bin, and I've been fine with just one. Flies like ABSOLUTE BUTTER though.
You think the Evo is bad try the original apex HD. It was such a tight build I had to mount my 4 in 1 backwards so the battery leads would fit. The Evo is still tight but it's so much better. They made the bottom plates a little longer for the Evo which really helps. I have run 1 battery strap forever and it's always been fine. However I don't see how running two would be an issue? Looking at my Evo build I definitely could fit 2 of I wanted above the electronics stack 🤔.
@@aidanfarley9566 I fully trapezoided a battery on concrete earlier today and it didn't budge. So I should probably worry more about my flying than my build lol.
The 7in Apex HD 'deadcat' frame is even better, as it has arm braces. I have made a 'clone' Crocodile75HDV3, using the Apex7HD, and (IMHO) it is the best frame in the world!!!
I'll just keep flying the one and only Iflight Titan for the last couple years or so. Still have 4 extra arms and a number of extra parts that I can't ever see myself switching to anything else. I'm over the spending money on stuff I don't need. I'm not the best at FPV and I've found out that buying more stuff and better stuff doesn't make any difference. The only thing that I care about is that every time I crash or hit a tree, bounce off concrete over and over and over again. That I will never have to worry about my frame breaking, or anything inside of it getting damaged no matter what. So yeah 90+ bucks on a frame that's not going to be as durable as my Titan with 6mm arms no thank you. I do understand how one might feel better or different over the other...but yeah so over it.
Yeah when I started off I'd go with the suggestions....every time I'd buy something it would end up breaking...all this long range/freestyle biz....more like until you crash and then you're out of luck for a bit...now it just all seems the same to me. @@cafub2650
The apex is known for being a tank, arguably the best 5" fpv frame of all time. It's durability is 2nd to none. I've had plenty of iflight frames as a beginner....what a waste of money. The bleeding didn't stop until I got an apex. 9 times out of 10X when my drone is down its gonna be from electronics or motors not my frame. They are 5.5mm arms ...0.5mm is literally one less sliver of CF lamination. Iflights carbon fiber is junk anyway so you can't compare thick cheap arms to slightly thinner high quality. The weave is tighter different resin. You can feel it in your hands. There's a reason iflight makes a new frame every week to make business. The apex has been around forever but evolved (EVO😂) with the hobby and refined into the perfect 5" frame it is, supporting ImpulseRC and steele. Your right buying new crap all the time, doesn't change anything. Buying the right stuff helps. When you've finally had enough, try something other than iflight, you'll never look back. If you only knew how many iflight escs and FC and frames I've been through...going cheap costs more in the long run in this hobby
Been on the APEX for years. All the points mentioned are spot on. I've ditched the stack screws entirely and mount AIO's on foam pads secured together by zip ties. Works perfectly, easy to remove and provides the same (if not better) resonance performance. LOVE this frame. Great review !
I'm curious how the standard frame and dead cat styles differ in flight characteristics and durability. If I'm going to build a quad around the O3 air unit I would like to have props out of view but I don't want to screw up the way it flies.
I've been on the fence about giving another frame a try. Flown iflight nasgul both v1 and v2. Currently flying a quadmula f5 split and earlier today ordered an apex evo Mr steele for a new build. Perfectly timed with the video Bardwell. Keep up the amazing work!
Timing of this review is so perfect.. I have one inbound now to build up! Glad to hear your review is pretty solid as this was my alternative to your frame specifically for the camera mount. I may still do a Bardwell frame after this just to compare. I expect my build will go much smoother after watching your review, as you gave a heads up on all the little things! Thank you!
Everyone is soo biased about this frame, if other frames doesn't have pre installed presnuts it's the end of the world, here it's no problem :D AOS still the beeest :P :D
"The best 5 inch freestyle frame ever made" *unless you're not flying DJI. Then you'll find it doesn't have 30.5x30.5 VTX mounting holes for the HDZero VTX and who knows if it would even fit at all...
@@flyingdutchmanfpv And that is the kind of information that is really good to include in a review like this one... (Or, even better for Apex themselves to mention it on the product page.)
..can ya move the ImpulseRC link to the bottom of that list... don't want those dirty Yankies buying up Aussie frames from AUS.. leave some for us aye meeeeight.. worth a shot...
Westpsyde disagrees with you and after his video I'd say it should have torque settings where you say you have control but not everyone does and saying that is the one to get is wrong for most people
Just completed my 5” build with a Apex EVO, and putting together the build video now. Love it so far! Although it was missing one of the stack bolts IIRC - kind of annoying
.... Calling the stack screw nut the "Golden Nut" gives some really weird urban dictionary vibes.
Not just urban ,hell country too
Bando banging!
I hope Criss was just naive, calling it that, all evidence from other people say otherwise ( shen drones Squirt, money shot)
A bunch of pervs 😂
😂
Apex user here. Been flying it for years. I understand the stack screws rant, I thought about it when choosing frames. Never ever in all this years I had to touch those screws.
Same here. Not an issue imho. And there is just something about this frame that feels just right in the air.
Same here, tip for new apex user. Test fit your flight stack before attaching the bottom plate.
One note about running the O3 air unit. If you use their included screws and tighten them all the way, the air unit will bend. Super dumb honestly since they have so much bs on their website about isolation of the video transmitter and then the mounting actively damages your 200$ transmitter. Theres 3d printed isolaters that add enough material to prevent this but its so dumb that it wasnt a consideration and you have to get something that isnt included with the kit.
APEXLR Evo suffers from the same problem.
I just use the newbeedrone O3 mount. No need to print anything.
@@DanoFPV Yea the LR Evo and regular dc Evo are exactly the same aside from the arm length. I built mine so I can hot swap the arms and motors to change prop sizes.
I switched from the aos 5.5 to the apex frame.
The aos arms suffered from delamination and broke. So after lots of battery packs and changing many arms, the rest of the frame also started loosing stiffness. I guess it was delamination too. The apex has been more durable and better resonance in the long run.
Also I get what steele means about the aos frame, when he said why aren't the arms together in the middle of the frame. It just makes the frame so much stiffer in the long run.
No hate for chris rosser. I appreciate all his work.
But there is also some aspect where I think he doesn't get the part of real life testing. It's not just ideal thrust stand with motors. I totally agree with KabaFPV about motors
The aos 5.5 had a bad habit of loosening up the stand-off bolts and this will cause the continuation of delaminating your described. I had to stop buying them because of this.
@@Carboneye7 You are right. I bought longer screws to go into the standoffs. Still same issue.
Hey JB! All your gripes with this fantastic frame is what I aimed to fix with NordFPV Nord5 HD, a frame you have at home! You should try that one. Just follow basically the same steps as with this one ;)
When you promote the Warranty for this frame. Just know it is a JOKE. They will replace the single part, and you will have to pay shipping. If you pay shipping, you might as well buy it from your favorite online shop. So don't buy it for the Warranty because it isn't worth the paper it is written on. Bardwell knows this. 🤷♂️
thoughts it’s well know that rotor riots, impulserc and bardwell are all mates
Don't crash???
I figured that one out a few frames in 😂@@1337flite
Are you going to review (re review) the current tbs source one as a possible contender for good/best budget frame with all these other frames fresh in your mind?
For the stack mounting bolts I have changed out the nylock nuts before because they allow a bit more vertical space and also because you can tighten them without taking the frame apart. Usually the friction on the screw against the carbon is enough to keep it from spinning while you tighten the nut. I just usually add a little Loctite and then use nylock nuts on top of the stack if there is room.
Also the note about flipping the camera mounts, I dont see how flpping the inserts is any different to flipping the aluminum bracket? Does it not accomplish the same thing?
The kit includes the plate for electrically isolating the Air Unit - which makes sense to me, from my experience with analog FPV. a few years back (I'm just getting back into the hobby - maybe).
But DJI's install guidelines says, get as much contact between the AirUnit and the frame as possible so the frame can act as a heat sink.
So you want an electrically non-conductive, but very heat conductive isolating plate. Does such a material exist?
I have never flown an Apex until ImpulseRC dropped this newer version, and I fell in love with just the aethetics. Bought 2 and built carbon copies. BBB has been helping me get the tunes ironed out, as I was having a weird motor noise/desync issue. Even with the tuning problem, it was and has been the best flying frame I have ever touched, and this is after around 50 other popular fpv frames over the last 3 or 4 years. I am hooked on the Apex Evo.
It’s 10yr old design ffs
@@Carboneye7 No shit sherlock.. Your point?
Try AOS5?
You can crank those impulserc apex pressnuts. Ive only stripped one out of 4 apexs. It was because i used the same bolt to pull in 2 frames worth of pressnuts. On the last one, the m2.5mm wore out, stipping the press nut. They are deffetly stronger than others.
Is it possible to convert the X-frame to a DC frame? Asking because I heard that the deadcat has original Apex 5 inch in front and original Apex 6 inch arms in the back.
Yes you need to buy the 6 inch arms, dead cat arm key, and the two dead cat bottom plates.
Pretty sure you are wrong, rigid carbon is much more likely to shatter than carbon that is allowed to slightly flex or move.
One reason is has such good resonance performance is the bottom plate is cut at 45 deg from the carbon layup. When assembled its a more isotropic structure than most.
Hi @Joshua, would you still need the "golden nut" if the stack screws are secured using press nuts instead? Thanks Joshua. 👍
No. The stack screw is the golden nut.
For me it is the best freestyle frame. It has accomplished this f.e. by sacrificing the easy access to the stack screws. Usually you never change them, unless you change the electronic component category. So that is fine. You could state though, that is is a more simple design compared to others. Like having a XT60 Mount or LED cut outs ... . But I still go for the Apex Frames! Durability is perfect enough.
If vbat accidentally gets to the frame it can damage the air unit (or the FC uart..or both) if its ground is connected to the frame, so the insulating plate would protect you in that case.
Carbon strips easy with those dip nuts, so add force but gently =)
I have broken the main arm screw multiple times. Its the screw with a shoulder made on the shaft and they brake alot.
Is there a structural integrity thing with counter sinking a bolt into a carbon fiber lay-up? It looks great and protects batteries etc but seems like that would weaken that bolt/plate connection 🤔
Just stripped two of the inner four pressnuts when tightening upper and lower main plate together. Didn’t even tighten it that much. Very strange. Don’t know how to fix it from here, hope it’s not 117€ into the bin 😔
One more comment about the warranty, my frame is about 3 years old, warranty already expired, and I never broke anything. I recommend using some 3d printed protections on the arms and it will last a lot more. Downside on my opinion is not much protection for the motors another reason to use some tpu protection there.
Great review Joshua! Been flying Apex since it came out- that and aliens are my all time favs. Haven’t built anything new in a while- think I’ll build another 🙂
you are the man !
thanks for all your help in the industry
I have 2 Apex Dead cats and love them with the 03 unit… great review🎉
what stack did you put esc+fc on?
I swear my timing. I just built an apex evo the other day and i scrubbed for that manual, couldn't find it. Built it and messed up by not dry-fitting. Stack didn't fit, so I had to desolder 2 motors flip the top plate take off those annoying stack bolts . Was rough, but i still enjoyed this build. Was my first build too.
Just built a Mr Steele version. Pretty awesome frame well designed and thought out.
What does the Mr Steele version come with?
@@omarferrer3188just a slightly less weight hardware, you will save a couple of grams for the extra 50$ ish )
Short question,, is that motor hole support 12x12mm?
Hey, I just bought the iflight Nazgûl evoque, and the frsky elite Taurinus transmitter. I can’t bind it to the FPV drone can you help me?
Test fit your flight stack before attaching the lower bottom plate
I need help with my radio. I've watched all the videos.. lost. My expresslrc stuck on loading.
I f you mean the ELRS Lua script is stuck on loading, try and switch to another quad and back. Mostly solves it for me on my TX16s
Awesome review, Joshua! Thanks! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Nice job JB! That's top quality right there!
I'm flying the 7" version of this (LOVE IT), but my biggest disappointment when buying this, especially considering the price was that it doesn't have chamfered edges and the press nuts weren't pre installed. Apart from that, it's an amazing frame that's well worth the money.
I have the same. Why on earth do you think it's "worth the money"?? It's an overprices, thoughtless re-hash of their 5". Parts come into a bag. Hardware is thrown together. It's a fucking joke. Compare this to something like a speedybee kit.
Completed my second build ever and used the Apex Evo; definitely a nice kwad. Apex evo, DJI O3, RCinpower GTSv4 1950kv, Speedybee F7 stack. "Assembly guide" however was a bit of a joke. Also how they have just a big mess of hardware all in one bag.. too lazy to separate or organize it?
Been flying the Apex Evo for the last couple of weeks as my main quad and I absolutely hated building it, and hate working on it. If I were to build another one with o3, I'd use a 20x20 stack to make room. The o3 just takes up so much of the already very limited space. Also, couldn't find a good way to run two battery straps, but luckily I had an extra ummagrip in my parts bin, and I've been fine with just one. Flies like ABSOLUTE BUTTER though.
You think the Evo is bad try the original apex HD. It was such a tight build I had to mount my 4 in 1 backwards so the battery leads would fit. The Evo is still tight but it's so much better. They made the bottom plates a little longer for the Evo which really helps. I have run 1 battery strap forever and it's always been fine. However I don't see how running two would be an issue? Looking at my Evo build I definitely could fit 2 of I wanted above the electronics stack 🤔.
@@aidanfarley9566 I fully trapezoided a battery on concrete earlier today and it didn't budge. So I should probably worry more about my flying than my build lol.
@@shellbournian lol rip well I guess that was a good durability test
The 7in Apex HD 'deadcat' frame is even better, as it has arm braces.
I have made a 'clone' Crocodile75HDV3, using the Apex7HD, and (IMHO) it is the best frame in the world!!!
Question: If i have a spectrum slrx2 micro receiver (spm4650) do i wire that up to ground, 5v and rx1
SRXL2 goes to TX not rx.
Ok cool so the TX pad on the flight controller
Question: will this frame support the Avatar HD video system?
Wish they added a key stone to the 3-4 inch reverb they sold . I own both and the arms always move making the frame shit
What’s the diff between reverb and evo?
Love the Apex frames. Collecting the parts to build the EVO version. 😎
The dewalt drill has a much better version with a clutch for extreme tightening control and has a convertible grip position. Pls get the good one
Did he just weld that screw down?
what foam padding should i get for the Fatshark Dominator hd's ? Thank you anyone
I’m all Apex!!! Let’s goo!! Thanks Bardwell!!!
I'll just keep flying the one and only Iflight Titan for the last couple years or so. Still have 4 extra arms and a number of extra parts that I can't ever see myself switching to anything else. I'm over the spending money on stuff I don't need. I'm not the best at FPV and I've found out that buying more stuff and better stuff doesn't make any difference. The only thing that I care about is that every time I crash or hit a tree, bounce off concrete over and over and over again. That I will never have to worry about my frame breaking, or anything inside of it getting damaged no matter what.
So yeah 90+ bucks on a frame that's not going to be as durable as my Titan with 6mm arms no thank you. I do understand how one might feel better or different over the other...but yeah so over it.
If you happy with what you have. It’s all good bro
Fly and have fun. You don’t always need the latest gear.
Most reviewers are just doing commercials.
Yeah when I started off I'd go with the suggestions....every time I'd buy something it would end up breaking...all this long range/freestyle biz....more like until you crash and then you're out of luck for a bit...now it just all seems the same to me. @@cafub2650
The apex is known for being a tank, arguably the best 5" fpv frame of all time. It's durability is 2nd to none. I've had plenty of iflight frames as a beginner....what a waste of money. The bleeding didn't stop until I got an apex. 9 times out of 10X when my drone is down its gonna be from electronics or motors not my frame. They are 5.5mm arms ...0.5mm is literally one less sliver of CF lamination. Iflights carbon fiber is junk anyway so you can't compare thick cheap arms to slightly thinner high quality. The weave is tighter different resin. You can feel it in your hands. There's a reason iflight makes a new frame every week to make business. The apex has been around forever but evolved (EVO😂) with the hobby and refined into the perfect 5" frame it is, supporting ImpulseRC and steele. Your right buying new crap all the time, doesn't change anything. Buying the right stuff helps. When you've finally had enough, try something other than iflight, you'll never look back. If you only knew how many iflight escs and FC and frames I've been through...going cheap costs more in the long run in this hobby
Apex Evo for president!
Plastics included are made by HQ, same plastic they use on their props
Been on the APEX for years. All the points mentioned are spot on. I've ditched the stack screws entirely and mount AIO's on foam pads secured together by zip ties. Works perfectly, easy to remove and provides the same (if not better) resonance performance. LOVE this frame. Great review !
This way You may get rid of any rezonanse and BF filters are blind
I like the camera plates on mine but it’s still no armattan!
It's an amazing frame!!! Love it 😎🔥
Flown impulserc frames since I saw Steele and chad og guys flying them the fly great and a reliable and tough can’t fault the frames ultimately
Good enough for mr steele davis......good enough for pretty much everyone else tbh.....he is quite particular about his equipment! 😊
Qav-s JB edition is better 😊
(Easily swappable arms)
A 4year old or older design with no functional changes is well a disservice to the fpv community
If it ain’t broke don’t fix it
I like that it stays the same. always parts available and lots of arm options 5, 5.5, 6, and 7.
I'm curious how the standard frame and dead cat styles differ in flight characteristics and durability. If I'm going to build a quad around the O3 air unit I would like to have props out of view but I don't want to screw up the way it flies.
In my experience deadcat is smoother when cruising cinematic style, you trade smoothness for agility with an X frame compared to a deadcat.
@@glonkfpv thanks!
I've been on the fence about giving another frame a try. Flown iflight nasgul both v1 and v2. Currently flying a quadmula f5 split and earlier today ordered an apex evo Mr steele for a new build. Perfectly timed with the video Bardwell. Keep up the amazing work!
Oof - you got scammed.
@mlentsch.. yeah ....scammed into buying iflight crap
That title goes to the iFlight XL5 frame.
Timing of this review is so perfect.. I have one inbound now to build up! Glad to hear your review is pretty solid as this was my alternative to your frame specifically for the camera mount. I may still do a Bardwell frame after this just to compare. I expect my build will go much smoother after watching your review, as you gave a heads up on all the little things! Thank you!
Send it back. It's a $40 frame.
Everyone is soo biased about this frame, if other frames doesn't have pre installed presnuts it's the end of the world, here it's no problem :D AOS still the beeest :P :D
"The best 5 inch freestyle frame ever made" *unless you're not flying DJI. Then you'll find it doesn't have 30.5x30.5 VTX mounting holes for the HDZero VTX and who knows if it would even fit at all...
Very few modern frames can fit the Freestyle in back. The recommneded workaround is to mount the Freestyle in the center and use a 20mm stack in back.
@@JoshuaBardwell A fair few can. And there's a 3D printed adapter for 20x20 to 30.5x30.5 so you can still mount it in the back.
I have a Apex 5 HD version it fits the HDZero freestyle vtx just fine in the back. Fitted it with a 20 to 30mm 3D printed bracket.
@@flyingdutchmanfpv And that is the kind of information that is really good to include in a review like this one... (Or, even better for Apex themselves to mention it on the product page.)
Lol i have a Volador and an Apex. Honestly i fly the Volador more. There's something that just feels better about it to me.
$91.49 plus shipping
The best.
Sub 250 freestyle is the new freestyle.
We need to shrink our favorite quads so we can preserve freedom.
No, you have to fight against tyranny.
Don’t worry they’ll regulate the shit out that next
Apex ImpulseRC Is The Best,...........!... ❤it,....Good Job ImpulseRC 👍
Oh interesting
..can ya move the ImpulseRC link to the bottom of that list... don't want those dirty Yankies buying up Aussie frames from AUS.. leave some for us aye meeeeight.. worth a shot...
Apex, no thanks . Quadmula Siren F5 is way more modern .
I am disagreeing with you…. “Saying things, saying things.”
So now you can reply and disagree with me!
Westpsyde disagrees with you and after his video I'd say it should have torque settings where you say you have control but not everyone does and saying that is the one to get is wrong for most people
👽👊
I'm sorry Josh but the Evo is nothing compared to the Demi Bot freestyle frame!I've never even heard of the Evo until I ran across this video.
Motors are exposed you'll dent em
Dewalt is the worst power tool brand going, simple. On another note please review the armattan beaver...
Nothing to review . Bulky and not really good for o3 or even hdzero freestyle .
Clearly you havent used that driver
flying arrmattan in 2023? thats a joke, they have bad resonance
Worse than Ridgid Ryobi and craftsman?
I think not LMAO.
@@Halphbaked210 I have a $15 electric screwdriver from Harbor freight that does the exact same thing.
mr steele
You can buy 2 or 3 very good frames for that price 🫣