Preparing the Hull-To -Deck Joint E8
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- Project Seahorse: Restoring a 1974 O'day Mariner 19 Sailboat, Episode 8
The Hull-To-Deck project is in full bloom. In this video, I go over techniques that I used to prepare for laying up fiberglass to reinforce and rebuild the hull-to-deck joint and flange. I spent a significant amount of time just prepping and this video will reveal why. There's definitely some palpable frustration here and there. And as always, discovering new damage! Stay tuned for a follow-up episode of laying up fiberglass and epoxy resin...
The Mariner 19 has a large following of many owners, an active forum with repair and restoration information, and plenty of parts still available. These boats are still manufactured today by Stuart Marine. You can visit www.usmariner.org to check out the Mariner Class Association and learn more about Mariners!
Let me know what you think, including comments, suggestions, or questions!
#sailboatrestoration #sailboatrefit #projectboat #mariner19 #repair #restoration #mariner
Hi, my previous sailboat had similar hull to deck joint. After more than 30 years, the sealant used during factory assembly did dry out and rain water was getting in the cabin. However I was lucky since the fiberglass was still in good shape, there were a mechanical fastener ( bolt and nut ) every 4 inches and, most important, no previous owners spear silicone base product in the joint.
On my boat the joint is covered by a large PVC cover which I want to keep intact. Working in small section. I remove the dry sealant, from in between hull and deck ( using a thin blade ) and on the inside, using a Dremel tool with sanding disk. After cleaning with acetone, I did paint the surface with straight epoxy follows by thickened epoxy ( silica ) making sure to push the mixture in the gap and leave a smooth radius on the inside. I did clean the excess on the outside. When this mixture was partially cure, I did fiberglass over the joint with two layer of tape on the inside. Never leak again, will likely never do.
On your boat, you may need to re-enforce the joint from the outside, especially where the fiberglass is deeply cracked. Maybe this info can help. Good luck.
Note: the yellow/orange resin is likely badly mixed and/or cheap epoxy, never cure properly.
Lotta work there .. wow .. I don't think I have ever seen a more mistreated boat! There are many ways to enjoy your boat. Not just sailing. Once sealed up water tight consider boat camping with a motor. Take a day or two and do an overnight. You will learn a different aspect of Mariner use/ownership, have some fun and it will help you maintain enthusiasm for the project. I overnighted on my previous #3627 (same style as yours) many times, 5 and 6 days at a time, sailing and overnighting. Had some very memorable trips. Hope you will too!
Leave it to me to pick the one that needs to most work… consider it charity work to ensure that there’s another decent Mariner down here in Florida 😅. I think your idea is not only a good one but a necessary one. There are already a couple of projects that I’ve reluctantly pushed to low priority so I can get this boat in the water
Wow dude looks like you are doing it all! Best of luck look forward to watching the process
I knew I bought a project boat, but I didn't know just how many projects it would reveal! I'm on the journey now and will see it through.
Thank you and really impressive channel btw man, I'll definitely be watching
@@projectseahorsesailing I’m excited to see it. I already know I’ll be learning a lot from you. And thank you for the follow.
Wow, you are a rock star. I can't imagine crawling that far aft in my quarter berth, let alone doing all that grinding back there. Once you have the inside joint glassed it'll be stronger than the original. It might be easier to glass over the external flange too - like Sam Holmes did.
It’s pretty bad crawling back there. I bought a full face respirator which made a huge difference in my comfort, especially in those tight quarters. And I’m debating what to do with the external flange…
So bizarre I just messaged a guy that posted a trailer sailboat for $500 in my area. I have the exact same story as you do zero experience but 100% a dream thanks to various TH-camrs especially Sam Holmes! I’m currently in the USAF and will retire in 12 years and want to see if the live aboard life is for me (and my family). Excited to follow your learning experience!
Hope you find something! What part of the country are you in? There’s probably a Mariner near you… my Dad was a pilot in the Air Force (Vietnam) and I’m currently an aircraft mechanic for the airlines.
So, after glassing the inside of the joint to stabilize it, have you considered simply grinding off the outer flange (both top and bottom bits) and simply fairing and glassing the darned thing? I've seen that done with success several times. Probably a good bit faster as well as way stronger than the original. The only reason for the flange is to make initial production (even) cheaper and faster. Plus, you are my new persevering hero. Holy Cow!
I did consider it and it’s still on my mind… more so lately. I saw some posts on the Mariner forum that someone cut it off, glassed/faired it, then installed a wooden rub rail. For the life of me I can’t find any post or picture of someone that has actually done it. I’m afraid to alter the original look of the boat, but a wooden rail might look really nice and classic. Would the rubber rub rail do a better job of protecting the boat?
Oh, and this project has definitely tested my patience and perseverance… thank you!
@@projectseahorsesailing Sam Holmes did something like it on his Cape Dory 27. And then sailed here across the Atlantic. Sailing Uma also did it years ago. Many boaters have done it on smaller boats of that construction type. A wood rail would be probably more protection, and what's taking the force, ultimately? the two bits of flange, which are a weak point. I will add that the rub rail is seen by many as a thing to avoid rubbing hahaha. Lastly, IMO a wood rail would look good.
Years ago I saw another Mariner restoration involving cutting off the flange. He glassed the inside to maintain the hull/deck alignment then cutoff the flange and glassed the outside joint. The n my 93 Mariner they used 5200 to seal hull/deck joint.
That’s what I almost did. I ended up finishing the port side, inside and out. I left the flange. A couple of tricks learned along the way- I’ll have a video out in a week or two once I get the starboard exterior done.
I'd be wary of grinding off the flange. I see it as integral to the strength of the hull if properly glued and secured.
its only a little boat a couple of weeks work be on the water ,,i thought that with mine until i started looking behind things and pulling bits off now it a full rework🤔 😂😂 but you,ll have confidence when it does go on water that everything is done and no unexpected fails
Hahaha that's exactly how it happened! If only I wasn't so OCD I think it would go a little faster... but yes, I'll be confident that she's a sturdy vessel
I'm trying to get my O'Day up and running today and I can't find anything that says how long I should make my control lines for my main and jib halyards and sheets would you by chance know how much line I need for each
Did you figure out the lengths? My lines are all mixed up, so I don't know what goes to what
@@projectseahorsesailing I got a rough idea, I'll let you know tomorrow afternoon when I can get out to the boat
@projectseahorsesailing I measured my main halyard at around 30 feet, my main sheet at around 32 feet and my jib halyard at around 25 feet, my jib sheet is attached to my jib and it is snowing out and I don't want to get it all wet before rolling it back up
@@MaskedGamer06 Thanks for the info. I’ll have to go through my lines and measure them. Most of them need to be replaced
@@projectseahorsesailing no problem!