Can you root Maple cuttings?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 มิ.ย. 2020
- Thanks for watching my channel. I started my gardening channel based on my collection figs, at one point I had over 350 varieties in Seattle. Now I've expanded my channel to Bonsais and Kois as well.
In this video I show the method I used to root larger maples cuttings.
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Yes you can grow maples from cuttings, and depending on the time of year is to how you do it, and maples are completely different then figs, you can’t compare the 2. First thing is to use course sand, it holds moisture and drains well as well as being sanitary , if you use dirt your introducing microbes and diseases and fungus immediately. If you use just plain perlite, it drains too fast and doesn’t hold the moisture long enough to keep them moist not wet. The cuttings you took wear you tore the leaves off, big mistake, you needed those leaves for photosynthesis. The moisture from the sand as well as the buds give the cuttings the nutrients it needs to make the cells to root out, while the leaves catch the energy from the light and send it down to the wound to help form roots. Also the cuttings steal the energy from the leaves to help survive. Japanese maples take longer to root out, so your best bet is to do hardwood cuttings early, bottom heat so it calluses up and then let them root out the rest of the year. And it’s really important you keep them in shade until fully rooted out, no sun period. Hopefully this will help you in the future. I do this for a living.
Growing from cuttings is definitely a powerful but tricky method to master! Definitely useful for anyone who wants to make bonsai forests, or for cloning the tree to make grafting supplies for new branches or for improving the nebari - not to mention just getting more trees for free!
1-5 cuttings rooted . Went to take em out after what i thought were failed cuttings & to my surprise one had plenty of roots
Regarding the ones that died, you put them into a bag, and then into a green house. I wouldn't think the bag would be needed if it's in a green house, just one or the other. I'm trying the bag method for the first time, so far so good. Leaves are not wilting, but I'm only one week into it at this point. And I used root promoter.
awesome man, most people say this cant be done, you a maple ninja ? subscribed
Air layering works great for creating a new tree. Some variety work better than others. I have made a few bonsai from this method. The cuttings seem to root better for me, if I take the cutting during late fall. And usually start rooting in late spring.✌️😎
Remarkable! You did that in spring? You are the best!
Whoa thats sick! Getting cuttings from a branch that thick? Good shit!
Exactly. It's actually impressive. Maples tend to root better from the freshest, most supple shoots.
Thanks for new technique, let me try now
Good stuff Ben. 👍👍
wow good job another learning from niwaki
For Japanese maples it's best to use the first flush of growth after it harden off. Very nice experiment. I was eager to see if those thick Sango Kaku cutting was going to take.
The Sango Kaku's still haven't rooted yet, I'll have to check on them again. It doesn't look likely though
thank you very clear, i will try
I found that sometimes the JM cuttings can take many months to root. In December I potted winter cuttings in clear plastic yogurt pots. In March, two started leafing out, and by about June you could see the roots through the clear plastic. Never had luck with trident cuttings though.
Hi Blue Sky thank you for the suggestion, I am going to go all out and try yours and the video. Wish me luck 🤞🤞.
@@bluewaters3118 good luck! Softwood cuttings & patience!! 🌳👍🏻
Blue Sky, I have always rooted cuttings the same way you did - upright. Perhaps it is easier for the cuttings to root laying down, as they were in this video? Four weeks seems surprisingly quick to me, but then I have not tried Trident maples.
@@B30pt87 certainly worth a try. I have successfully rooted a quite big boxwood cutting at a diagonal angle (it was a branch that accidentally snapped off my box hedge). The problem with diagonal or lying down is that the roots are now much higher one side of the trunk than the other, so I need to spend a few more years uprighting the trunk.
@@BlueSkyBonsai Ah, thank you for that information. I did notice that the roots, while individually thick, were not growing from all sides. I think I'll stick to upright rooting - it works well.
Thx, so useful video ! :)
Thank you fir share!!!
I had a similar result with Acer palmatum (a couple varieties) when trying to root cuttings in sphagnum moss, although it seemed they dehydrated despite being in a "terrarium" to maintain high humidity. I had left 3 or 4 leaves on the tip of the cutting though, so perhaps removing those would have reduced moisture loss. I would have thought some leaf was necessary to move water through the stem, but your shoebox experiment would indicate that leaf transpiration is not essential.
i have tried two seasons it was the same none . wont give up yet
I just rooted a few mulberry cuttings of different sizes. I either removed most or all of the leaves and cut them back heavily if left on. The quickest cuttings to root and produce new shoots were consistently the ones without any leaves or small branches left on. Different species, granted, but the concept of removing leaves to reduce transpiration is the same. Perhaps not having any leaves is the best way to reduce moisture loss before rooting takes place.
Sounds like you’re doing a lot of deflecting & blaming others, instead of taking responsibility for your own problems & mishaps
thankyou very much
good job
Doesn't Peter Chan say it's imperative to have "rooting trays" that allow optimum soil drainage to never allow complete saturation. Mold breeds in stagnation.
No.
@@macysondheim you are one lonely person. I have seen your other comments on deferent topics. You are no help to people who try to help each other and learn.
Thank you
Nice yard bro! I’m actually from seattle too, just cut my maple yesterday and also wondering if I can propagate it, ty for the vid🙏
Did you try?
@@waltstehlin3418 I tried just sticking maple cuttings on the shady wet part of my yard, didn’t work but hydrangeas did:)
Hello,
Can you please tell me if you watered the cutting after putting container on shelf for 4 weeks? Or was the initial first watering all you needed during the 4 weeks before roots appeared?
This is very useful information.I have been trying this with no success for a couple of times.What type of media did you use?And is there a substitute for clonex ?
I am going to try this method. So, I gotta goo out & buy a decent plastic shoebox , bag of perlite , a new spray mister (so I won't use my old ones that may have been contaminated with fungus potential), rooting hormone (this stuff can be sooo expensive). Plus, I think I will use a scalpel to get a real "fine cut" that is precision rather than typical snips that can cause microscopic crushing of the cutting at the cut end. Me thinks that is actually quite important is to keep from using snips that are DULL ... as in the medical arena, crushing tissue is one of the most problematic things during surgery. This is why everything is always sharp as could be to make an incision. Crushed cells at the periphery really screws up healing in human tissue, so we should be extrapolating that to nursery cuttings.
I agree. I use a box knife with a new blade for taking cuttings and I think that's one of the reasons my cuttings work. Pruning shears always crush - they squeeze the plant until the sharp edge cuts through.
Thank you for the comparison to human tissue. I have always felt this way but it hadn't occurred to me why.
Out of all those cuttings, is that the only one that rooted?
The popsicle stick is where your mold started . I've used them in the garden and every time I pull one out there's fluffy green or grey mold .
Same here. I used to use these 4" bamboo mini signs to label the species and when I planted my seeds, but mold would start to grow on them almost immediately. Then, I tried doing the same with wooden popsicle sticks and mini post-it notes, but again, mold would start to grow right where the wood and soil met, almost immediately.
I find using a small amount of hydrogen peroxide in water to spray the soil helps stop mold.
@@mustafaguven7920 that’s not good for the plants health. Terrible advice
@@macysondheim it is not terrible advise have you even tried it. There is videos on TH-cam with other people doing it as well. Have you even done research on it because I have. Mix five parts hydrogen peroxide with one part water to control mold and fungus in your soil to prevent it damaging your seedlings/plants
@@macysondheim can you tell me why it’s bad for the plants instead of saying it’s just bad advice.
Maple wants fairly strong rooting hormone, you can root without it, but it does increase the odds everything else equal.
The recommended strength is 0.8% IBA, Clonex is something like 0.3%-0.35% better than nothing but ideally you want something stronger for the best odds. Rooting hormone may all seem the same, but the strength can make a world of difference for some plants.
I thought you stripped off all the leaves before placing tbe cuttings into the shoe box. Did the leaf grow when sitting in the shoe box?
What was the proportion of your steriliser mix please, enjoy your videos John UK
Great video, I am going to try and take Acer cuttings this year. I tried for my October 2021 video update but this didn't work I think due to dormancy and being in the warm. I might try again this spring sometime.
mid-late summer through fall is the best time for maple cuttings.
@@sharonrose9552 I got nine Acer cuttings that made it through winter 7 taken last March and 2 in August. Spring is right around the corner, I think my April update will show their first significant growth from cuttings into plants.
@@jameswilmot4537 what I was reading about silver maples and sugar maples was late season, then bring them inside for the winter, but I don't want to run lights and heat over the winter, and they are claiming a like 90% success rate. Then I read a paper from like the 1930s that stated they took them in the fall, covered them in dirt, pulled them out in february and started them in a greenhouse. and they used vinegar as the rooting hormone, which I do not know if that is naptha-vinegar or cider vinegar. But for silvers the canadians said between 2000-2500 of hours above 5C for optimal success.
I am going to pull some cutting probably tomorrow and see what happens. I have a tall straight silver that I want to clone. And then I will try again in the fall because it is too close to a building and I have to take it down. It is syrup season here so they are mostly dormant.
@@sharonrose9552 Let me know how your cuttings do. I have also got more maples from seed that fell 6 months ago, I will update in these this month.
Perlite needs to be washed for more sensitive species. Glad your experiment worked. Maples are basically weeds tho…
Wow really interesting. Is there a time of year best suited to maximise the chance of survival? Cheers and thanks for your content
Cant say for sure yet, I know with figs during the dormant season is best but with maples from what I've read spring time works best
I would like to know as well.
Acer Ps are much harder to root than Tridents (which are easy).
Yes
Thank you for the tips, is it safe to prune a JP maple right now during the hot summer?
Summer, late fall, winter are all ok. Avoid early to mid-spring as the plants are expending a lot of energy and will therefore have fewer reserves to draw on. Mid-summer is best avoided as it's already very hot and a stressful environment.
Is there a specific time of year to attempt this or will anytime of the year be okay?
Yes you can I have done it with a floating cloud japanese maple. You need sand!!! Not soil, and dip and grow
You have some nice water pressure in your sink.
How long did it take to put your climapod up
U know a lot about the coral maple tree right?
Do you disinfect after checking/when you open? e.g. water + peroxide?
If i see mold I'll give it a sprits of peroxide. But it's hard to keep it perfectly sterile
Clonnex is good for roots
Question: did you place the new c
Sorry hit wrong button, but did you immediately put the new cuttings in pots to grow, and did you place in greenhouse or well lighted area?
What do I use if I dont have perlite can I use vermiculite??
try cococoir
If you remove all of the leaves from a cutting it has no way to move water up through the stem. Sure death will ensue. If you don't want leaves causing mold take cuttings while dormant.
true for conifers but not true for all deciduous
45° cut
Fungus is the biggest challenge.
try Japanese maple
Much harder but can root from tip cuttings
@@BenBSeattle what i would like is to root vine maple ( native ) southern Oregon
@@christined3953 Vine maples root very easily. In the wild they ground layer and root where ever they touch the ground
Anyone had success with this method?
I tried just sticking the maple sticks on the ground almost under the mother tree about six months ago and so far nothing😢😢 I was flying solo though, now I know better and with this video I know I will succeed. I hope you try this method. Good luck.
Yep. Gotta breathe…
The bag was the greenhouse you just used two greenhouses
Yes. I’ve made that mistake before also.