I’ve recently ordered an the IONIQ. After carefully considering the new leaf and e-golf I must say after watching your videos I really think I made the right decision.
Great work Bjorn, we continue to learn about the intricacies of this new technology (and marketing) so we can understand how these cars will behave for normal people. Drive safe!
Really appreciate your scientific quest for the truth. I agree you have to minimise any variables as much as possible, only realistic way is to test all the cars at the same time on the same day which is obviously impossible. This is why most tests are done in the lab in controlled conditions. Some manufacturers even managed to corrupt lab data, naughty Germans 🤔 keep up the good work avoiding opinions and fake news. Never sell out Bjorn!
AS always an informative video - thanks. It does suggest that ambient temperature is very important. I regularly drive an Ioniq EV on the Pacific Motorway in New South Wales Australia. At around 20 degrees C without lights or climate control switched on I average just over 12 kWh/ 100 km with cruise control set at 110km/h. We dont get really cold days here but when its 30+ degrees C consumption is substantially higher because of the aircon .
90 miles at 70mph with ambient temperature of -11ºC is pretty impressive for 28kWh My B250e would be lucky to make 60 miles from 28kWh at that speed/temperature, even if setting off with it pre-warmed.
brilliant video mate on the Hyundai ioniq. these are a great car, im getting the hybrid in 8 days, so looking forward to that. you was so lucky on the cars charge to reach a charge station lol thanks for sharing a great video and sharing. *****THUMBS UP*****
Got the Hyundai hybrid Premium SE model recently. (2018 -UK) Loving it. Easily the best car I have ever had. Early days but averaging 62 mpg although I did have it in the sport mode a few times which makes it feel a different car again. Have to get used to a silent car on start up. Looks stunning in the platinum silver finish and much better looking than the Prius. Dual clutch automatic super smooth.
Bjorn great videos. This is a more real world test for here in the US where most traffic flows at 70 to 75mph. This car will be a monster with a bigger battery pack.
Don't forget that the battery size isn't just power used for range etc... If you have regen the battery size will appear to be larger. More regen will make the battery look bigger. When you vary the regen the range can increase at higher speed by using no regen or more regen on steeper hills, road resistance, tire resistance, patch and regen levels. Also tires with a bigger diameter will go further for slightly less torque starting out. Tire diameter can cause a 1-2-3% difference in range. All sorts of things will make the battery appear larger or smaller.
Tire diameter won't show up in the GOM unless the car uses a GPS and battery sensor, but you can drive 1-2-3% further for what the computer thinks is 1-2-3% less and speedo will read slower than actual speed with larger tire diameter. But if you want more range use a larger tire diameter. for example if you have a base 25" tire diameter but use 26" tires. That is 4% larger tire. You can drive 104 km or miles for what the other tire will see as 100 km or miles etc... and at 104 when the speedo says 100. Torque during acceleration will be 4% less, 181 will be 174. If you use gps for speed the motor will be using 4% less effort (give or take). Tire patch may increase which will be a negative... Clearance will decrease too but 1" is 1/2" for clearance, turning clearance in the wheel well will be at max turn .71% of an inch less space. Where tire size is noted as 215/17/50 this means 215mm wide tire with 17 inch inner diameter rim, and the sidewall is 50% of 215mm = 107.5mm x 2 top and bottom plus 17 x 25.4mm = 431.8mm + 215mm = 646.8mm or 25.464 inches. There is also tread depth... Patch depends on inflation tire construction sidewall stiffness etc... A 225/17/50 is 25.858 inches. not much difference 1.5% the patch is 225 mm vs 215 mm 4% but the actual area is harder to figure out and depends on too many factors that constantly change. Tires also have roll resistance a snow tire or performance summer tire will have less range than a Michelin AS energy saver no season low roll resistance tire. 5% to 20%. This will show up in the GOM.
These tests reiterate the fact that the driver can’t really see anything except what the manufacturer wants you to see based on the way the BMS was programmed. If they program the BMS to report a 30 kWh battery capacity when new, that’s what it will report in Tesla/Leaf spy. If Tesla wants you to see 310 miles as the range on a model 3, that’s what you will see, regarding of the true range. If the manufacturer wants the battery meter to report in a non-linear way, it will. I think the only time you can trust the BMS is when it’s sold by a third party, such as for your DIY powerwall project. They have no reason to report anything but the truth since they didn’t sell you the battery. It doesn’t mean manufacturers are purposefully trying to deceive people, but merely that its impossible to take a reading on a battery and know the exact range, so it uses some algorithms based on available data, including expected degradation or measured degradation. The BMS may also try to guess what you are doing that might use more power later, and go ahead and subtract that power early so you don’t get stranded. Such as having 5 miles range left, and 4 mikes to the charger, but a 3000 ft increase in elevation change anticipated, so it will say 0 miles range until you head downhill with a tailwind to an alternate charge location.
I agree with you that the driver can only see what the car wants to display but there is a very good reason for those tests: you charge the car, you know how many kWh you put in, then you drive the car and you see how many km you can do. This is the only true way to measure what the car can do, I believe. And after owning the car for some time, and repeating this procedure, you can start to make an educated guess about what would be your range. I would appreciate that the car does that estimation for you automatically: according to *your* habits, this is how many km/mi it would do. I really don't understand the interest of what Tesla does by considering that your car is supposed to use that many Whs per km/mi and make all calculation based on that. It's kinda ridiculous for me, it would practically never happen that way exactly. Actually, very few ICE cars do it. They tell you what remains in the tank and it's up to you the driver to guess how many km/mi you will do with it. Why would it be different with an EV ?
Alexis de Wouters, if you can verify the car’s BMS is reporting properly, and that what you are measuring is only kWh going to the battery, and you can charge under identical situations from 3.3v to 4.1v, and record all the data, then you can see some changes and might be able to determine degradation from those. But consider that as a battery degrades, it’s internal resistance increases, so some of the kWh measured going in, is converted into heat, and not really stored energy. And you won’t know this until you can drain the battery under laboratory conditions, which is also nearly impossible while in the car. The advanced BMS uses an algorithms to determine how much of the energy that was measuring going in will be useable as stored energy. Since there is no direct correlation between battery voltage and the amount of energy you can get out, the BMS uses a very sophisticated algorithm to factor in all known variables, and then take its guest guess to get kWh remaining, and then take its best guess to get range remaining. The BMS establishes the minimum protection the manufacturer wants on the battery to make it last, and this is a balance between EPA range and battery degradation. Most push it to the ragged edge, and recommend only charging to 80% and discharging no lower than 20%. Some, like Chevy Volt, build in the limits to use only the middle 60% of the battery, since it’s a hybrid. I think those who babied their cell phone and laptop battery will also baby their EV battery, and it will last a long time. Those who always rely on the BMS to set the limits of abuse, will suffer higher degradation. And of course any car you park outside in direct sunlight 100F temperature that doesn’t activity cool the battery will suffer degradation. The hardest part will be when buying a used EV, and trying to determine how much it was abused. The first EVs were so basic that they pretty much told the truth, so you can see the Nissan Leaf battery degradation bar. But Tesla and many others don’t report that. And the BMS can be updated OTA to change what it does report, unlike the basic first gen Leaf. Eventually someone will make an app like Tesla Spy that has a database of what all the new batteries should do, and let you drive it through a test cycle, including max acceleration, max regen, and it will give the best estimate of battery health. The modern day “rolling back the odometer” is going to be resetting the BMS to show less charge cycles than it actually had, even if they need to replace that chip which holds that data.
@IMHO thanks for the explanation it's much clearer now. So basically to evaluate the "state of health" of an EV compared to an ICE the thing is no more how the mechanics have been used and abused but how the battery have been treated. Instead of an old engine used and performing less good and efficiently than a fresh new one, it's a battery holding less efficiently its electrons and developing more internal resistance. Obviously yes we need new tools to measure this 😊
Alexis de Wouters, yes, and the drive units have bearings, gears, seals just like any car, and will someday need service. Lots of Tesla had failed drive units, replaced under warranty. We don’t know how many used Tesla have a weak drive unit that wasn’t yet discovered because the driver was very easy on the car. It’s very hard to find the lost of improvements on Tesla because they want people to believe the car never needs repairs. We can’t really see if they fixed the issues causing all the drive units to fail.
I believe they fixed the issues, what's the point in keeping a faulty process? Of course perfection is not of this world and Tesla is still young so problems are kinda expected I would say, but they are improving
My Ioniq was averaging 18.3 kWh/100 km on a 91 km trip. 50% 100 km/h, and about 25/25% 80/100 km/h. And that in temperatures ranging from -18 to -11. It does like to warm-up a bit first. It consumed close to 23 kWh/100km the first 20 minutes. Messy comment, I know. Uploaded a messier video on my channel on it.
I think the Ioniq reports a more "realistic" battery percentage, with a little to no buffer at 0%, while the new leaf could probably drive 20km+ when the display shows 0%
You should really check the tire pressure on the cars you test. The Leaf already had very low tire pressure (only 2.4 bar) and the IONIQ has the warning symbol illuminated as well. I do not drive Bumblebee with less than 2.8 bar. And that helps a lot.
ye i work at the Hyundai and Honda dealership as a mechanic and we always fill 2.5 bars at service. dont want to much as it will cause premature wear on the middle of the tires
2.4 bar very low pressure? the standard pressure for non low profile tyres is 2.2 bar. Saw that the car is completely unloaded 2.4 is quite high pressure, perfect for motorway. 2.8 bar is a pressure for very low profile tyres such as 35/40... ioniq tyres sidewall is 55!
2.4 bar is like 35 psi which is pretty much what everyone inflates car tires to around here. I have inflated my fossil past 40 psi, but i worry about tire wear and the ride isn't so great...a tradeoff for sure.
Will not those fast chargers soon be flooded by i-paces on their way to the mountains? They will be standing there in line and watch all those teslas beeing charged.
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what a great test. thank you so much, you made me confident I want this "little" car. :)
Hey Björn, again an awesome and really informative video. I have made an EV-calculation and range-Excel-sheet. Compared the values from many of your tests and roadtrips (e.g. eGolf 35,8 kWh, Ioniq) with my calculations. And the results fit really well. Is it possible to send you this Excel-sheet? Perhaps it will help you a bit with your range calculations.
Unfortunately not. If there was then I would probably have over 100 referrals by now :P Hyundai should lend me a car for an unlimited time so I can do some crazy tests with it.
Unfortunately not. If there was then I would probably have over 100 referrals by now :P Hyundai should lend me a car for an unlimited time so I can do some crazy tests with it.
From what I can see , even with a compromised design : ie hybrid, phev, ev , and not ideal battery size or placement, Hyundai seems to have turned out an excellent ev. When they are designing pure uncompromised Ev's, I think that Hyundai, will be hard to beat.
i have tpms sensors in both winter and summer. i work as a mechanic at the hyundai and honda dealer and i never seen a ioniq without tpms sensors in the original summer and winter rims
Its lack of heat loss is because the excess heat goes into the car so the A/c doesn't have to work hard so makes it more efficient. Its basically using the heat instead of releasing the heat to atmosphere.
Its thrue the car needs to warm up before becomming efficiënt. I am a ioniq owner and see the numbers getting better whith longer drives. This stops when the outside temp gets above 8 degrees. Greetings from Holland and love your channel btw!
I use leaf spy all the time and my observation is battery are not like bucket. The quantity of energy they can store varies depending on numerous factors. One is temperature of course. I've seen 102% reported in new battery with and estimated 28+ kWh I don't remember the exact number. Strangely its looks like battery can charge more in cooler temperature. But this gain is largely lost due to others factors. Leaf Spy report a more accurate picture of the SoC than the dashboard and the difference is quite large at both ends of the range. The reported Soc jumping up and down is likely a display bug not a radical change in the battery themselves.
My 2018 leaf can easily do over 200km at highway speeds. May be the issue is what you mentioned, that the leaf battery was still too cold when you started the test.
According to the display on my Bioniq, it is doing 159.34 wh/km or 256.41 wh/mile. Based on 15p/kW power price this is 3.9p/mile. At 9p/kW it is 2.2p/mile. Stick that in your pipe and smoke it Fossil fans. Most of this was highway driving at 0°C to -6°C in the snow.
According to the display on my Bioniq, it is doing 159.34 wh/km or 256.41 wh/mile. Based on 15p/kW power price this is 3.9p/mile. At 9p/kW it is 2.2p/mile. Stick that in your pipe and smoke it Fossil fans. Most of this was highway driving at 0°C to -6°C in the snow.
I believe Hyundai picked this battery size to get the highest efficiency of all EV's. bigger battery = heavier car and reduces range/kwh. We just need to get over this Range Fright that people have with EV's.
@@dae3xt Spot on, imho. Still, the car has a very low cx coefficient, i bet a 40kw battery might just do for quite a lot of people. If it does 140km with that 28kw battery in cold weather, with a 40kw pack i would bet it could be really close to 200km, take 5 to 10% less depending on the weight and you might still get 180/190km, all of that in cold weather. Wouldn't that be fancy?
There are just too many variables. You cannot have them all under control, so there is always some random error. Question is, how large is it so how realiable are your results. For example when trying to compare available energy from battery. You can only guess the error from one single test. It's understandable. You'd need a LOT of time to make some statistics.
I have owned Hyundai vehicles in the past and they are very sneaky with their numbers ( like many other manufacturers). My theory is that the battery is bigger than 28kwh...everything is new in the EV world so anything goes when it comes to Marketing...for example let’s speculate that if the ioniq has a 35 kWh battery but hyundai says it has a 28 kWh battery, then the numbers will look like they are the industry’s best... and then the marketing department can say it has a competitive advantage when in fact the consumption numbers are the same as the other EVs. As you know, the laws of physics can’t be circumvented so unless the ioniq gets hooked up to a leafspy gadget, we will never know the real numbers.
Sounds like the Ioniq's GoM is a bit optimistic vs. the Leaf which is a bit pessimistic. Still the Hyundai is a very efficient car - I just wished the interior quality was better (it feels so cheap inside) and 28 kWh battery is a little on the small side these days.
I drive the IONIQ regularly at 130 km/h to work (120 km over Autobahn), effectively reaching 110-120 km/h average speed and reach about 160-180 km in summer. Currently I make it to 135 km. But my tired pressure (2.8-2.9 bar) is most likely a lot higher than Bjørn's.
that dont make sense bjørn. i suck at driving my ioniq economically and when i got the car it was maybe +10 or 15. had easy 200km when driving like i stole it
Keep in mind that speedometer is 5 % off. When you think you drive at 110 km/h, real speed is 104-105 km/h. When I tested, I drove in 115 km/h on speedometer.
impressive result, 185 wh/km is a very low consumption and 143km are very good for a so small battery! The problem is only one: in Germany, Czech Republic, Poland and Italy 110km/h are far from being high speed; here usually the car flow is going at 140-150 km/h so high speed is at least 160 km/h. At those speed for now only Tesla and soon i-pace and e-tron but the problem then is that they cost 80k Euro.
@@bjornnyland In this video you speculated that the car is more efficient, because you first drove from home to the charging station and consequently preheated the batteries, which you didn't do on previous tests (including when testing average consumption at 90km/h). Then you said you should probably redo all previous tests, because they are flawed, because of this very reason. I disagree. I believe all previous tests are as they should be and this one is flawed. Because most people unplug at home and drive away with cold batteries and this is the consumption they would be interested in. Then again, it's also true that over a longer trip and multiple charging stops, the battery would eventually heat up and reach peak efficiency, negating the initial higher consumption, while the batteries were colder. Good review, btw, whenever I wonder something about electric cars, it's usually already answered in your videos. I'm still waiting for a 100kWh Ioniq / Niro, because the charging network in Eastern Europe is still appalling. Keep it up!
These older tests are still really useful for second hand car buyers👍
I second this, bought mine based on Bjorns reviewes a couple od months ago
I’ve recently ordered an the IONIQ. After carefully considering the new leaf and e-golf I must say after watching your videos I really think I made the right decision.
How is it so far, after a year?
I am also interested in buying one. Give us some feedback.
Had mine for 2 1/2 years, only driven @40,000km. Drives like a dream, no drop in range and have never run out. Sweet car !
Great work Bjorn, we continue to learn about the intricacies of this new technology (and marketing) so we can understand how these cars will behave for normal people. Drive safe!
Normal people with typical impatience. 😂
I just bought a 2019 ioniq electric comes tomorrow 👀
Really appreciate your scientific quest for the truth. I agree you have to minimise any variables as much as possible, only realistic way is to test all the cars at the same time on the same day which is obviously impossible. This is why most tests are done in the lab in controlled conditions. Some manufacturers even managed to corrupt lab data, naughty Germans 🤔 keep up the good work avoiding opinions and fake news. Never sell out Bjorn!
I dit 172 km/h for 20 km (A3 Germanie) and 142 km/h for 85 km. The Heather at 22 C° drivers only. The temp. was 5 - 10 C°.
I had 40 km left after that
AS always an informative video - thanks. It does suggest that ambient temperature is very important. I regularly drive an Ioniq EV on the Pacific Motorway in New South Wales Australia. At around 20 degrees C without lights or climate control switched on I average just over 12 kWh/ 100 km with cruise control set at 110km/h. We dont get really cold days here but when its 30+ degrees C consumption is substantially higher because of the aircon .
90 miles at 70mph with ambient temperature of -11ºC is pretty impressive for 28kWh
My B250e would be lucky to make 60 miles from 28kWh at that speed/temperature, even if setting off with it pre-warmed.
I love this guy! He’s so legendary 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
brilliant video mate on the Hyundai ioniq. these are a great car, im getting the hybrid in 8 days, so looking forward to that. you was so lucky on the cars charge to reach a charge station lol
thanks for sharing a great video and sharing.
*****THUMBS UP*****
Got the Hyundai hybrid Premium SE model recently. (2018 -UK) Loving it. Easily the best car I have ever had. Early days but averaging 62 mpg although I did have it in the sport mode a few times which makes it feel a different car again. Have to get used to a silent car on start up. Looks stunning in the platinum silver finish and much better looking than the Prius. Dual clutch automatic super smooth.
Bjorn great videos. This is a more real world test for here in the US where most traffic flows at 70 to 75mph. This car will be a monster with a bigger battery pack.
Don't forget that the battery size isn't just power used for range etc... If you have regen the battery size will appear to be larger. More regen will make the battery look bigger. When you vary the regen the range can increase at higher speed by using no regen or more regen on steeper hills, road resistance, tire resistance, patch and regen levels. Also tires with a bigger diameter will go further for slightly less torque starting out. Tire diameter can cause a 1-2-3% difference in range. All sorts of things will make the battery appear larger or smaller.
Tire diameter won't show up in the GOM unless the car uses a GPS and battery sensor, but you can drive 1-2-3% further for what the computer thinks is 1-2-3% less and speedo will read slower than actual speed with larger tire diameter. But if you want more range use a larger tire diameter. for example if you have a base 25" tire diameter but use 26" tires. That is 4% larger tire. You can drive 104 km or miles for what the other tire will see as 100 km or miles etc... and at 104 when the speedo says 100. Torque during acceleration will be 4% less, 181 will be 174.
If you use gps for speed the motor will be using 4% less effort (give or take). Tire patch may increase which will be a negative...
Clearance will decrease too but 1" is 1/2" for clearance, turning clearance in the wheel well will be at max turn .71% of an inch less space.
Where tire size is noted as 215/17/50 this means 215mm wide tire with 17 inch inner diameter rim, and the sidewall is 50% of 215mm = 107.5mm x 2 top and bottom plus 17 x 25.4mm = 431.8mm + 215mm = 646.8mm or 25.464 inches. There is also tread depth... Patch depends on inflation tire construction sidewall stiffness etc...
A 225/17/50 is 25.858 inches. not much difference 1.5% the patch is 225 mm vs 215 mm 4% but the actual area is harder to figure out and depends on too many factors that constantly change.
Tires also have roll resistance a snow tire or performance summer tire will have less range than a Michelin AS energy saver no season low roll resistance tire. 5% to 20%.
This will show up in the GOM.
These tests reiterate the fact that the driver can’t really see anything except what the manufacturer wants you to see based on the way the BMS was programmed. If they program the BMS to report a 30 kWh battery capacity when new, that’s what it will report in Tesla/Leaf spy. If Tesla wants you to see 310 miles as the range on a model 3, that’s what you will see, regarding of the true range. If the manufacturer wants the battery meter to report in a non-linear way, it will.
I think the only time you can trust the BMS is when it’s sold by a third party, such as for your DIY powerwall project. They have no reason to report anything but the truth since they didn’t sell you the battery.
It doesn’t mean manufacturers are purposefully trying to deceive people, but merely that its impossible to take a reading on a battery and know the exact range, so it uses some algorithms based on available data, including expected degradation or measured degradation. The BMS may also try to guess what you are doing that might use more power later, and go ahead and subtract that power early so you don’t get stranded. Such as having 5 miles range left, and 4 mikes to the charger, but a 3000 ft increase in elevation change anticipated, so it will say 0 miles range until you head downhill with a tailwind to an alternate charge location.
I agree with you that the driver can only see what the car wants to display but there is a very good reason for those tests: you charge the car, you know how many kWh you put in, then you drive the car and you see how many km you can do. This is the only true way to measure what the car can do, I believe. And after owning the car for some time, and repeating this procedure, you can start to make an educated guess about what would be your range.
I would appreciate that the car does that estimation for you automatically: according to *your* habits, this is how many km/mi it would do. I really don't understand the interest of what Tesla does by considering that your car is supposed to use that many Whs per km/mi and make all calculation based on that. It's kinda ridiculous for me, it would practically never happen that way exactly.
Actually, very few ICE cars do it. They tell you what remains in the tank and it's up to you the driver to guess how many km/mi you will do with it. Why would it be different with an EV ?
Alexis de Wouters, if you can verify the car’s BMS is reporting properly, and that what you are measuring is only kWh going to the battery, and you can charge under identical situations from 3.3v to 4.1v, and record all the data, then you can see some changes and might be able to determine degradation from those. But consider that as a battery degrades, it’s internal resistance increases, so some of the kWh measured going in, is converted into heat, and not really stored energy. And you won’t know this until you can drain the battery under laboratory conditions, which is also nearly impossible while in the car.
The advanced BMS uses an algorithms to determine how much of the energy that was measuring going in will be useable as stored energy. Since there is no direct correlation between battery voltage and the amount of energy you can get out, the BMS uses a very sophisticated algorithm to factor in all known variables, and then take its guest guess to get kWh remaining, and then take its best guess to get range remaining.
The BMS establishes the minimum protection the manufacturer wants on the battery to make it last, and this is a balance between EPA range and battery degradation. Most push it to the ragged edge, and recommend only charging to 80% and discharging no lower than 20%. Some, like Chevy Volt, build in the limits to use only the middle 60% of the battery, since it’s a hybrid.
I think those who babied their cell phone and laptop battery will also baby their EV battery, and it will last a long time. Those who always rely on the BMS to set the limits of abuse, will suffer higher degradation. And of course any car you park outside in direct sunlight 100F temperature that doesn’t activity cool the battery will suffer degradation.
The hardest part will be when buying a used EV, and trying to determine how much it was abused. The first EVs were so basic that they pretty much told the truth, so you can see the Nissan Leaf battery degradation bar. But Tesla and many others don’t report that. And the BMS can be updated OTA to change what it does report, unlike the basic first gen Leaf.
Eventually someone will make an app like Tesla Spy that has a database of what all the new batteries should do, and let you drive it through a test cycle, including max acceleration, max regen, and it will give the best estimate of battery health. The modern day “rolling back the odometer” is going to be resetting the BMS to show less charge cycles than it actually had, even if they need to replace that chip which holds that data.
@IMHO thanks for the explanation it's much clearer now. So basically to evaluate the "state of health" of an EV compared to an ICE the thing is no more how the mechanics have been used and abused but how the battery have been treated. Instead of an old engine used and performing less good and efficiently than a fresh new one, it's a battery holding less efficiently its electrons and developing more internal resistance. Obviously yes we need new tools to measure this 😊
Alexis de Wouters, yes, and the drive units have bearings, gears, seals just like any car, and will someday need service. Lots of Tesla had failed drive units, replaced under warranty. We don’t know how many used Tesla have a weak drive unit that wasn’t yet discovered because the driver was very easy on the car. It’s very hard to find the lost of improvements on Tesla because they want people to believe the car never needs repairs. We can’t really see if they fixed the issues causing all the drive units to fail.
I believe they fixed the issues, what's the point in keeping a faulty process? Of course perfection is not of this world and Tesla is still young so problems are kinda expected I would say, but they are improving
My Ioniq was averaging 18.3 kWh/100 km on a 91 km trip. 50% 100 km/h, and about 25/25% 80/100 km/h. And that in temperatures ranging from -18 to -11.
It does like to warm-up a bit first. It consumed close to 23 kWh/100km the first 20 minutes.
Messy comment, I know. Uploaded a messier video on my channel on it.
I've never been a Hyundai fan, but way too go Hyundai, a kick ass ev. I think i could become a Hyundai fan.
I think the Ioniq reports a more "realistic" battery percentage, with a little to no buffer at 0%, while the new leaf could probably drive 20km+ when the display shows 0%
You should really check the tire pressure on the cars you test. The Leaf already had very low tire pressure (only 2.4 bar) and the IONIQ has the warning symbol illuminated as well.
I do not drive Bumblebee with less than 2.8 bar. And that helps a lot.
ye i work at the Hyundai and Honda dealership as a mechanic and we always fill 2.5 bars at service. dont want to much as it will cause premature wear on the middle of the tires
This was temporary due to cold weather. Just like what happened in Optimus Prime at -36°C.
2.4 bar very low pressure? the standard pressure for non low profile tyres is 2.2 bar. Saw that the car is completely unloaded 2.4 is quite high pressure, perfect for motorway. 2.8 bar is a pressure for very low profile tyres such as 35/40... ioniq tyres sidewall is 55!
2.4 bar is like 35 psi which is pretty much what everyone inflates car tires to around here. I have inflated my fossil past 40 psi, but i worry about tire wear and the ride isn't so great...a tradeoff for sure.
Will not those fast chargers soon be flooded by i-paces on their way to the mountains? They will be standing there in line and watch all those teslas beeing charged.
what a great test. thank you so much, you made me confident I want this "little" car. :)
Hey Björn, again an awesome and really informative video. I have made an EV-calculation and range-Excel-sheet. Compared the values from many of your tests and roadtrips (e.g. eGolf 35,8 kWh, Ioniq) with my calculations. And the results fit really well. Is it possible to send you this Excel-sheet? Perhaps it will help you a bit with your range calculations.
Do you have a referral link for Hyundai as well? Because i just ordered an Ioniq because of your videos (and test drives). Its the best EV out there!
Unfortunately not. If there was then I would probably have over 100 referrals by now :P Hyundai should lend me a car for an unlimited time so I can do some crazy tests with it.
Unfortunately not. If there was then I would probably have over 100 referrals by now :P Hyundai should lend me a car for an unlimited time so I can do some crazy tests with it.
From what I can see , even with a compromised design : ie hybrid, phev, ev , and not ideal battery size or placement, Hyundai seems to have turned out an excellent ev.
When they are designing pure uncompromised Ev's, I think that Hyundai, will be hard to beat.
the TPMS lamp is on. meaning 1 or more tires might have to low air pressure. could make the range shorter
wowgt93 or he's got winter tires on with no tpms sensors
i have tpms sensors in both winter and summer. i work as a mechanic at the hyundai and honda dealer and i never seen a ioniq without tpms sensors in the original summer and winter rims
Pretty normal in Europe. I didn't buy TPMS sensors to winter tires either.
well due to law in norway evry new car comes with it
wowgt93 Eu regulation only demands that summer tires are equipped with tpms sensors, which is great because full set costs app. 300e.
Its lack of heat loss is because the excess heat goes into the car so the A/c doesn't have to work hard so makes it more efficient. Its basically using the heat instead of releasing the heat to atmosphere.
Ioniq doesn't have liquid cooled system. The new Ioniq can do that but not the old one.
Its thrue the car needs to warm up before becomming efficiënt. I am a ioniq owner and see the numbers getting better whith longer drives. This stops when the outside temp gets above 8 degrees. Greetings from Holland and love your channel btw!
I use leaf spy all the time and my observation is battery are not like bucket. The quantity of energy they can store varies depending on numerous factors. One is temperature of course. I've seen 102% reported in new battery with and estimated 28+ kWh I don't remember the exact number. Strangely its looks like battery can charge more in cooler temperature. But this gain is largely lost due to others factors. Leaf Spy report a more accurate picture of the SoC than the dashboard and the difference is quite large at both ends of the range. The reported Soc jumping up and down is likely a display bug not a radical change in the battery themselves.
My 2018 leaf can easily do over 200km at highway speeds. May be the issue is what you mentioned, that the leaf battery was still too cold when you started the test.
At high speeds Cx is the most important for high efficiency
According to the display on my Bioniq, it is doing 159.34 wh/km or 256.41 wh/mile. Based on 15p/kW power price this is 3.9p/mile. At 9p/kW it is 2.2p/mile. Stick that in your pipe and smoke it Fossil fans. Most of this was highway driving at 0°C to -6°C in the snow.
Yeah, but Fossil makes some really nice watches.
They do indeed
In Spain with 20 degrees you can do 180 km aproximately, the temperature makes the autonomies really different
👍👍👍👍👍THUMBS UP👍👍👍👍👍
at 5:11 it's a Tesla-Fest. They seem to have managed to block half the chargers.
You should have fixed the tire pressure!
sorry but I am not good with all the numbers , so was the range at this speed 142km with 95%battery? I want to know before I buy one.
Yes, with this cold outside temperature and constantly driving at 110 km/h, he reached 142km (87 miles), with 5% battery left.
6:56 Yes, 142 km with 5% left, which is about as low as you can go in practice before the car goes into turtle mode. ☮️
you could even get more milage if you deactivate the heat option on the climate and just rely on the heatpump itself
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Very efficient, but the battery is still too small 😓
The same car with a 60 kWh battery would be the perfect one.
According to the display on my Bioniq, it is doing 159.34 wh/km or 256.41 wh/mile. Based on 15p/kW power price this is 3.9p/mile. At 9p/kW it is 2.2p/mile. Stick that in your pipe and smoke it Fossil fans. Most of this was highway driving at 0°C to -6°C in the snow.
I believe Hyundai picked this battery size to get the highest efficiency of all EV's. bigger battery = heavier car and reduces range/kwh. We just need to get over this Range Fright that people have with EV's.
@@dae3xt Spot on, imho. Still, the car has a very low cx coefficient, i bet a 40kw battery might just do for quite a lot of people. If it does 140km with that 28kw battery in cold weather, with a 40kw pack i would bet it could be really close to 200km, take 5 to 10% less depending on the weight and you might still get 180/190km, all of that in cold weather. Wouldn't that be fancy?
What was your tayer pressure?? The screen showing red light of Tyler's pressure on
There are just too many variables. You cannot have them all under control, so there is always some random error. Question is, how large is it so how realiable are your results.
For example when trying to compare available energy from battery. You can only guess the error from one single test. It's understandable. You'd need a LOT of time to make some statistics.
wish malaysia had ev rip. not that i can buy it but atleast when i grow up i can buy it for myself for a cheaper price
I have owned Hyundai vehicles in the past and they are very sneaky with their numbers ( like many other manufacturers). My theory is that the battery is bigger than 28kwh...everything is new in the EV world so anything goes when it comes to Marketing...for example let’s speculate that if the ioniq has a 35 kWh battery but hyundai says it has a 28 kWh battery, then the numbers will look like they are the industry’s best... and then the marketing department can say it has a competitive advantage when in fact the consumption numbers are the same as the other EVs. As you know, the laws of physics can’t be circumvented so unless the ioniq gets hooked up to a leafspy gadget, we will never know the real numbers.
I think it's 31 kWh gross.
On ioniqforum.com the debate is still going on on the size of the battery... anywhere from 31.5 to 35 kWhs
10km / kwH is good to assume this is what you got on this trip?
6:56 185 Wh/km is about 5.4 km / kWh
Why does it show low tire pressure light?
The brutto capacity of the Hyundai Ioniq battery must be around 30-33 kWh
I'm guessing 31 kWh.
2:43 why is your TPMS light lit?
Sounds like the Ioniq's GoM is a bit optimistic vs. the Leaf which is a bit pessimistic. Still the Hyundai is a very efficient car - I just wished the interior quality was better (it feels so cheap inside) and 28 kWh battery is a little on the small side these days.
if the outside temp was more like +15 degrees then about how many mile would you estimate could have been achieved instead?
+ad8m Maybe 160 km.
Just 20km more than in -8c ? Really?
I drive the IONIQ regularly at 130 km/h to work (120 km over Autobahn), effectively reaching 110-120 km/h average speed and reach about 160-180 km in summer. Currently I make it to 135 km. But my tired pressure (2.8-2.9 bar) is most likely a lot higher than Bjørn's.
that dont make sense bjørn. i suck at driving my ioniq economically and when i got the car it was maybe +10 or 15. had easy 200km when driving like i stole it
Keep in mind that speedometer is 5 % off. When you think you drive at 110 km/h, real speed is 104-105 km/h. When I tested, I drove in 115 km/h on speedometer.
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Good morning. Have you ever tested the Peugeot 3008 hybrid diesel?
I don't test fossils.
Now, if they double the battery, it's my car :)
impressive result, 185 wh/km is a very low consumption and 143km are very good for a so small battery!
The problem is only one: in Germany, Czech Republic, Poland and Italy 110km/h are far from being high speed; here usually the car flow is going at 140-150 km/h so high speed is at least 160 km/h. At those speed for now only Tesla and soon i-pace and e-tron but the problem then is that they cost 80k Euro.
Wait for Kona then.
Bjorn, do you know expected price for Kona? Or maybe just estimate?
Seems the Kona is superior in efficiency
You're joking right?
This test is flawed, not the others. People charge at home and then go driving.
+Jerubei What is the problem?
@@bjornnyland In this video you speculated that the car is more efficient, because you first drove from home to the charging station and consequently preheated the batteries, which you didn't do on previous tests (including when testing average consumption at 90km/h). Then you said you should probably redo all previous tests, because they are flawed, because of this very reason.
I disagree. I believe all previous tests are as they should be and this one is flawed. Because most people unplug at home and drive away with cold batteries and this is the consumption they would be interested in.
Then again, it's also true that over a longer trip and multiple charging stops, the battery would eventually heat up and reach peak efficiency, negating the initial higher consumption, while the batteries were colder.
Good review, btw, whenever I wonder something about electric cars, it's usually already answered in your videos. I'm still waiting for a 100kWh Ioniq / Niro, because the charging network in Eastern Europe is still appalling.
Keep it up!
Incorrect. Many people will preheat the car in winter before departing.
@@bjornnyland Is there an explicit option on the Ioniq to preheat the batteries before leaving, while still connected, or is it up to the BMS?