Hi Mark. I only just came upon this video a couple of years late but I have a few inputs to suggest that may be very useful to most paracord crafters. 1. Silicone Finger Protectors These are very inexpensive and a tremendous aid to anyone who needs to melt, form, finish, or join paracord. They are often sold in sets of 3, each being a different size so that a set will fit all of your fingers. I always put one on my thumb and a 2nd one on my index finger. They are soft, flexible, and have a melting temperature that is considerably higher than melting / burning paracord, leaving your fingers always protected from burns. They can be used to form a nice conical point on a single cord preventing the ends from fraying but also forming a nice conical tip which can be easily thread into a lacing needle. These finger protectors can also be used to flatten melting ends in your work in case you want a shiny finish or do not want to use a knotters tool to pattern the cord's finish. I find these devices are excellent for joining together two melting ends to join two pieces of paracord. I find this method much faster and easier than the Manny method of joining paracord. It makes a smooth almost seamless bond which is rock strong. Here is an example where you can buy 4 sets of 3 (12) protectors for less than $10 for the whole lot. If you search Amazon using Silicone Finger Protectors you will find a huge number. www.amazon.ca/Silicone-Protector-JDWG-Cracking-Arthritis/dp/B07PT9G6DK/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=silicone+finger+cots&qid=1618013803&s=hi&sr=1-16 2. Cutting Device During the many years of paracord work I used knives, scissors, animal claw trimmers, and a few other tools to cut paracord. But by far the best I find are wire cutters like the Igan-330. While they were designed for cutting electrical wire, they are fantastic for cutting paracord. They are small in size (approx 3" x 5") and the arms are spring loaded so they spring back open after use. They a very sharp and if you only use them to cut paracord they will last forever. They are excellent to fit into tight places of your work where you need to clip off ends of loose cord which are often nestled between other cords that you do not want to nick. Because the blades come together edge to edge, they never twist and overlap like scissors often do. The cuts are super easy and the edges they leave are smooth and clean. At the end of last year I purchased one of these for myself and two for my friends and they cost $9.00 each. I should not have promoted them because the price has jumped to about $20 but there are a large number of brands and you can probably get a low cost high quality one at your neighborhood hardware store. This is what the IGAN-330 looks like www.ebay.ca/itm/124087694535?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=706-53473-19255-0&campid=5337674825&toolid=10049&customid=992580081-6-1265781731.1618012240 Frankly I never see any use or any mention of these tools in any of the hundreds of paracord tutorials out there. But these are low cost tools that will make every paracord crafters work a lot easier and efficient. Cheers, Murray
As a guy who used zippos back when I was a smoker, I carried them on me all the time. Let me say I DO NOT RECOMMEND If you want a reliable lighter use a BIC. The reason why is this. You can have BICs for very long periods of time and no issues other than eventually they run low. EVENTUALLY. Where as Zippos...Dry up. They dry up fast. They are a pain in the ass to keep buying fuel for and you get it all over your hands and on your gear if you intend to carry it. USE A BIC. The only plus side to a zippo is you might have a little wind resistance. You can over that with a bic by cupping your hand around the lighter. Bics do not dry out nearly as fast as a Zippo. Ive owned and carried a few Zippos they need to be refilled every few weeks. IF you find yourself in a situation and you eventually will where you need a lighter...Your zippo will likely be dryed out. BIC has never let me down.
I keep a carabiner with a bunch of elastic hair ties. They come in very handy for cord management on projects that use long lengths of cord like belts.
Zippo isnt very good takes forever to melt and since i dont smoke, always seem to evaporate on me when i need it. You can upgrade the zippo with a vector or blazer insert. I use a single flame or torch for most of my work (prefer the xikar tech single), but also have a triple torch for if i need to ghetto hot knife either a dental pick in a shape I hate, or some vice grips and a piece of bailing wire (prefer jobon triple or vector thundra). I have a Weller hot knife kit at home on a floor lamp dimmer so i can keep the temps low and the welds clear instead of black. +1 on osbourne tools. I have a cheap hair straightener iron and it works greeeat to flatten gutted cord. Temps dont matter as much as being smooth....you want the cord even and consistant. Also, try buying a pack of aligator clips, file down the teeth a little, and cover the teeth with heat shrink tubing. Good for holding braids if you need to take a break, or mark which direction you are going on a tightening pass.
I would add a Spanish or Swedish fid (I've seen it called both). Nothing beats it when you have to pass a cord into a tight weave. It's very inexpensive too. Here's a link to an example outdoorxscape.co.uk/store/splicing-tools/kingfisher-small-swedish-fid.html . They are available at most marine supplies, along with a variety of marline spikes.
Great channel, I really like your projects, keep up the great idea's. When you were using your penknife, what was the knot/bracelet you were cutting, a bit like a ladder. Thanks.
Thanks Mark. It was informative. I've looked at Amazon but there they do not have the ones you use. Where can I get the tools you use? Otherwise a good video with good explanation. Thanks.
Robert Johan Romuld Tandy Leather Perma-Lok Super Jumbo Paracord / Leather Lacing Needle www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFH6F7Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_as18AbC8WA9G5 The long flat one he mentions by tandy leather. 3 Different Size Stainless Steel Paracord Lacing Needles by Jig Pro Shop www.amazon.com/dp/B07523GLQT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nE18AbCFXD60Y I have these ones personally. The stainless steel is well worth the extra cost. They are much stronger than aluminium and can be used as a marlin spike in a pinch. The long tapered shape makes them highly useful using the manny method to join paracord, or you can start the hole with the large, then put on a medium and it goes through like a hot dog in a hallway.
1) where do you get the curved lacing needles? the bent tip is actually quite useful for my work. 2) when you're fusing, you don't really have a hand for the lighter (or you're more dextrous than I am 8-). I use an alcohol lamp for my fire needs 3) I've only just purchased some lacing needles (and grip fids from the ply-split crafters), usually I use pincher bodkins (www.crafterhoursblog.com/2011/06/bodkin-really-thats-word.html)
The accent actually calms me and takes away a lot of the inner stress of a learning curve. His videos are the best.
Hi Mark. I only just came upon this video a couple of years late but I have a few inputs to suggest that may be very useful to most paracord crafters.
1. Silicone Finger Protectors
These are very inexpensive and a tremendous aid to anyone who needs to melt, form, finish, or join paracord. They are often sold in sets of 3, each being a different size so that a set will fit all of your fingers. I always put one on my thumb and a 2nd one on my index finger. They are soft, flexible, and have a melting temperature that is considerably higher than melting / burning paracord, leaving your fingers always protected from burns. They can be used to form a nice conical point on a single cord preventing the ends from fraying but also forming a nice conical tip which can be easily thread into a lacing needle. These finger protectors can also be used to flatten melting ends in your work in case you want a shiny finish or do not want to use a knotters tool to pattern the cord's finish. I find these devices are excellent for joining together two melting ends to join two pieces of paracord. I find this method much faster and easier than the Manny method of joining paracord. It makes a smooth almost seamless bond which is rock strong. Here is an example where you can buy 4 sets of 3 (12) protectors for less than $10 for the whole lot. If you search Amazon using Silicone Finger Protectors you will find a huge number. www.amazon.ca/Silicone-Protector-JDWG-Cracking-Arthritis/dp/B07PT9G6DK/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=silicone+finger+cots&qid=1618013803&s=hi&sr=1-16
2. Cutting Device
During the many years of paracord work I used knives, scissors, animal claw trimmers, and a few other tools to cut paracord. But by far the best I find are wire cutters like the Igan-330. While they were designed for cutting electrical wire, they are fantastic for cutting paracord. They are small in size (approx 3" x 5") and the arms are spring loaded so they spring back open after use. They a very sharp and if you only use them to cut paracord they will last forever. They are excellent to fit into tight places of your work where you need to clip off ends of loose cord which are often nestled between other cords that you do not want to nick. Because the blades come together edge to edge, they never twist and overlap like scissors often do. The cuts are super easy and the edges they leave are smooth and clean. At the end of last year I purchased one of these for myself and two for my friends and they cost $9.00 each. I should not have promoted them because the price has jumped to about $20 but there are a large number of brands and you can probably get a low cost high quality one at your neighborhood hardware store. This is what the IGAN-330 looks like www.ebay.ca/itm/124087694535?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=706-53473-19255-0&campid=5337674825&toolid=10049&customid=992580081-6-1265781731.1618012240
Frankly I never see any use or any mention of these tools in any of the hundreds of paracord tutorials out there. But these are low cost tools that will make every paracord crafters work a lot easier and efficient.
Cheers, Murray
Your accent is just fine. Thanks for such a great video.
You can also use a grinding wheel to turn an old screw driver into a scratch awl or belt fid in a couple of minutes.
As a guy who used zippos back when I was a smoker, I carried them on me all the time. Let me say I DO NOT RECOMMEND
If you want a reliable lighter use a BIC. The reason why is this. You can have BICs for very long periods of time and no issues other than eventually they run low. EVENTUALLY. Where as Zippos...Dry up. They dry up fast. They are a pain in the ass to keep buying fuel for and you get it all over your hands and on your gear if you intend to carry it. USE A BIC.
The only plus side to a zippo is you might have a little wind resistance. You can over that with a bic by cupping your hand around the lighter. Bics do not dry out nearly as fast as a Zippo. Ive owned and carried a few Zippos they need to be refilled every few weeks. IF you find yourself in a situation and you eventually will where you need a lighter...Your zippo will likely be dryed out. BIC has never let me down.
I use a small pair of needlenose pliers, jeweller's ones with smooth jaws - they're great for pulling cords through and pulling out slack.
I keep a carabiner with a bunch of elastic hair ties. They come in very handy for cord management on projects that use long lengths of cord like belts.
Zippo isnt very good takes forever to melt and since i dont smoke, always seem to evaporate on me when i need it. You can upgrade the zippo with a vector or blazer insert. I use a single flame or torch for most of my work (prefer the xikar tech single), but also have a triple torch for if i need to ghetto hot knife either a dental pick in a shape I hate, or some vice grips and a piece of bailing wire (prefer jobon triple or vector thundra). I have a Weller hot knife kit at home on a floor lamp dimmer so i can keep the temps low and the welds clear instead of black. +1 on osbourne tools.
I have a cheap hair straightener iron and it works greeeat to flatten gutted cord. Temps dont matter as much as being smooth....you want the cord even and consistant.
Also, try buying a pack of aligator clips, file down the teeth a little, and cover the teeth with heat shrink tubing. Good for holding braids if you need to take a break, or mark which direction you are going on a tightening pass.
Very nice to see your kit. I'd add a selection of mandrels, some sewing scissors, and a craft knife.
I would add a Spanish or Swedish fid (I've seen it called both). Nothing beats it when you have to pass a cord into a tight weave. It's very inexpensive too. Here's a link to an example outdoorxscape.co.uk/store/splicing-tools/kingfisher-small-swedish-fid.html . They are available at most marine supplies, along with a variety of marline spikes.
This is one I have to try! I am familiar with it, but never quite figured I could use it with paracord too. Thank you for the idea!
Mark
You'll love it!
Thanks for sharing that. Very interesting.
Great channel, I really like your projects, keep up the great idea's. When you were using your penknife, what was the knot/bracelet you were cutting, a bit like a ladder. Thanks.
Hey!
The weave would be this:
www.paracordguild.com/aztec-sun-bar-paracord-bracelet-tutorial
Mark
Where did you find the flat spike that you tighten your knots with?
I use a pair of wire cutting pliers for close in cutting nice neat and can cut close in :)
Paracord guild what tape measure is that?
Thanks Mark. It was informative. I've looked at Amazon but there they do not have the ones you use. Where can I get the tools you use? Otherwise a good video with good explanation. Thanks.
Hey Robert!
Which tools are you after?
Mark
Especially those you sew with in different dimensions.
Robert Johan Romuld
Tandy Leather Perma-Lok Super Jumbo Paracord / Leather Lacing Needle www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFH6F7Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_as18AbC8WA9G5
The long flat one he mentions by tandy leather.
3 Different Size Stainless Steel Paracord Lacing Needles by Jig Pro Shop www.amazon.com/dp/B07523GLQT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nE18AbCFXD60Y
I have these ones personally. The stainless steel is well worth the extra cost. They are much stronger than aluminium and can be used as a marlin spike in a pinch. The long tapered shape makes them highly useful using the manny method to join paracord, or you can start the hole with the large, then put on a medium and it goes through like a hot dog in a hallway.
1) where do you get the curved lacing needles? the bent tip is actually quite useful for my work.
2) when you're fusing, you don't really have a hand for the lighter (or you're more dextrous than I am 8-). I use an alcohol lamp for my fire needs
3) I've only just purchased some lacing needles (and grip fids from the ply-split crafters), usually I use pincher bodkins (www.crafterhoursblog.com/2011/06/bodkin-really-thats-word.html)
Great info! Thanks
I'm sorry for not writing in English that you're the best.
Cara você é o melhor
thank you
For tool and cord storage: Rigger's Bag
www.harborfreight.com/canvas-riggers-bag-38124.html