Great video. Guess the old saying “only a poor tradesman blames his tools” stands true here. Only problem is sometimes it’s difficult to figure these things out and you’ve done a fantastic job explaining what’s happening and how to get around them. Well done and thank you!
Another great video; thanks for sharing some awesome shots. I've used the R7 with RF100-500 for over a year, mostly for birds and sports, stills and video. The truth is that I've never wanted to use the maximum frame rate of 30 fps, since I find it hard to review so many shots in post. As a result, I never ran into the problems you describe with the AF "defocusing" at faster frame rates. While I understand why some users might be disappointed by Canon's lack of transparency as to its maximum specs, this wasn't a major impediment for me, and it might perhaps have been unrealistic to expect the same performance as in the R5 given the price difference. Perhaps more important to me is how the light-weight body makes it susceptible to shutter shock with the mechanical shutter, but this can be easily avoided with the electronic first curtain shutter, again as long as you can live with 7-15 fps. This also avoid the issue of rolling shutter, as I rely on the electronic shutter only if I want a "silent" mode. I have no regrets, particularly when paired with the RF 100-500. The dual USM focus motors make for accurate, responsive AF; the lens OIS works well with the built-in IBIS; and the image quality is spectacular. I'm waiting to see how well it works with the rumoured RF 200-800 (soon to be announced according to Canon Rumours), so I'm hoping you plan to review it. The only other comment I would make is there is now a third party battery grip from Custom Battery Grips, which provides a longer battery life and accommodates larger hands.
Is the shutter shock a problem in general or just certain shooting conditions? I’ve heard a couple of people mention it but most never do. It’s making me wary of getting this model as I’m used to always using a camera with mechanical shutter and see no need to use anything else. I don’t do very high frame burst photography as a rule so never needed to look into using (or understanding ) electrical shutter. I am currently looking to come back to Canon so it’s a big decision that I don’t want to get wrong! I used to have a 90d and traded to go mirrorless. The main difference for me was seeing a live representation of the image exposure which I think I might miss if I go back to a dslr - maybe?! I really like the ergonomics of canon but don’t have a high lens budget so it’s a dilemma! Thanks
@@traceybartlam7737 I was initially sceptical, but then I systematically compared images with the mechanical shutter under a variety of conditions and found that image sharpness was compromised with the. mechanical shutter in virtually all shooting scenarios. It's not really an impediment, though, as the first curtain electronic shutter avoids the problem, without the rolling shutter issues seen with the electronic shutter i.e. just use the first curtain electronic shutter as your primary shutter mode. In addition to eliminating shutter shock, there is less wear-and-tear on the mechanical shutter. The only downside is the maximum of 15 frames per second, like the mechanical shutter.
@@traceybartlam7737 In my experience, the shutter shock is seen with the mechanical shutter in all shooting conditions. But it's easy to avoid by using the first curtain electronic shutter, which also reduces the wear-and-tear on the mechanical shutter and avoids the rolling shutter issues seen with the electronic shutter. The only downside of the FCES is the limitation of maximum frame rate to 15 fps, just like the mechanical shutter.
@@traceybartlam7737 For some reason, my reply doesn't seem to "take". So apologies if this is a repeat. In my experience, the mechanical shutter was associated with softer images in all shooting scenarios. But this is easily avoided with the first curtain electronic shutter, which also avoids the rolling shutter issues of the electronic shutter. The only downside is the maximum frame rate (15 fps, just like the mechanical shutter). Also, to be frank, I only appreciated the difference in image quality when I switched from mechanical to first curtain electronic shutter, so I might have merrily continued with the mechanical shutter without knowing any better 😄. Incidentally, I agree with you: Once you have adapted to the WYSIWYG mode of mirrorless cameras, it's impossible to go back.
I bought mine for the reach and AF. Could not be happier. Problem is, that sensor is actually pretty good. So now I am doing stuff I never planned for - buying lenses for wide etc. Never what I intended, but man. Still use a ton on EF glass and very happy. My staple is R7 with used EF 100-400 F5.6 L ii and 1.4x iii sometimes. At $2350 all in that is a killer setup for budget.
Terrific video and I sincerely appreciate it! As a R7/RF 100-500 owner, I found your tips on the R7 autofocus invaluable. I enjoy all of your videos and always look forward to your next production. Many thanks!
Great video. I was planning to upgrade to an R7 from my older Canon DSLR and was always hearing about the autofocus issues. You were the first person to really explain the issues and how to overcome them. I'm now really looking forward to purchase the Canon R7. Thank you for your great video.
Great stuff Scott. It's rare that 'power users' such as yourself, will take the time after a full year of use to re-visit the equipment and give an honest review. I use the combo of R7 and 100-500mm Rf photographing sea mammals and birds on the central and north coast of BC and believe it is a very effective package for handheld use! To avoid rolling shutter I shoot electronic first and find that 15fps is fine in most cases. Thanks once again for the great content that you post here.
The R7 is the best camera I ever use. Before I used a 7D mark II and I can't believe in the performance of the R7 compared to any DSLR. I shot more small birds in dark rainforest and even with my Sigma 150-600, a lens that many people say that don't march well with the R7 I come back from the field with amazing photos and videos.
The Sigma takes great pictures. The hit rate suffers a hair on the canon R system cameras, but nothing you can't get around. I have a video on the channel with the Tamron equivalent and the point was to prove that the lens was sharp and could get great images.
@@WILDALASKA nice to know that you have a video testing the Tamron. I'll watch. Yes, these lenses are very sharp and despite we get some soft shots I still get much more sharp ones than with the 7D.
I picked up a R7 about 6 months ago and have shot a few thousand photo's with it. Works fantastic even with the few limitations you mentioned for the price its an amazing value for what you get. I've been using EFC for panning and birds flying and have set the DOF button to electronic shutter for when I'm not worried about rolling shutter. Great video as always thanks for time you put into making them !
You’ve gotten it soaked in the rain for many hours? I’ve heard mixed things about the weather sealing. I’d love to take it out shooting in the snow but I’ve been afraid to.
Yes, The video buttons stopped working but I could still shoot stills after a few hours. Once the camera dried out after a couple hours, everything was fine and dandy. It's been in a lot of snow also. No issues there. NONE of this is advisable lol. But it happened @@leemarkowitz4709
Amazing video. I currently own the R7 and the RF 100-500. What an amazing combo. Not holding down the back AF button helped 95% in getting sharp shots. Love your videos and thanks for sharing. 📸👍
@@alansach8437agree obviously when birds in flight you’ll have to hold it down. But the hit rates about 85%. Let’s be honest here, let’s say the hit rate was 100% and you hold down on that shutter for 3 seconds that’s 90 photos. So now you have 90 in focus shots, are you keeping all of them?? Are you editing all 90?? Guaranteed you’ll keep 5.
consistent actions.e. moving out of initial focal plane is different. Say BIF or hopping branches etc, the autofocus will work fine as its following the subject detected, unless you hit. branch as It can still get confused.
R5 100-500 shooter here. I find the R7 intriguing as a second body. Weight being a consideration for me. The reach would be welcome. I appreciate your comments about laying off the focus button after it’s locked. It’s something I’m trying to remember to do. I shoot mostly birds and they are always on the move. I really appreciate you showing us, in the field, how the operation of these cameras work! I can’t wait to check out your other videos!
Hey Scott, great in depth chat on the R7. It's my second body next to m R5 and it's been great. My only quibble is the occasional rolling shutter but otherwise it's pretty terrific for bird and wildlife. I will take your advise and back off continuously pressing down the back button autofocus. I also had the issue with the eye piece but i followed your recommendation for replacing it and that has worked out well. I'm thinking that the R7 paired with the expected new RF 200-800mm will be quite the set up when available. Thanks again for the sage advice, and kudos to you for delivering a great review with your back to a bull moose!!!
What a fantastic video on the R7! The best I've seen on youtube so far. I love the technical details that are easy to understand and make perfect sense. I watched the whole video and really enjoyed it.
Just received my R7 and can’t wait to start shooting. Will be using my 70-200 and 100-400 IS using an adapter , shooting mostly wildlife here in Montana as well as some landscapes using the 24-70. Thanks for the tips. I enjoyed the video. Keep em rolling..
Completely agree with the letting the button los, if you have the af looking for movement and there is t movement it's going to get lost for short periods till it notices that actually there was nothing moving
Again a very, very nice video. My compliments, superb. I'm using the combo R7 with the RF 100-500 for some months. Using it as you showed it at several video's (BB-setup, single point, eye detections, settings, etc.). Shooting 30 fps without any problems (for 90%). An amazing combo!! It would be very nice if you make a long term video about this combo.
I shoot 15fps and haven't seen the in focus / out of focus thing very much. Once in a while but not frequently. I keep it at 15 so that I have consistency between electronic shutter and mechanical. I can't say honestly that I've missed a shot at 15fps that 30fps would have captured. It is an easy enough switch should I ever really want to bump it up for a specific situation. My experience with the R7 is similar to yours.
I just keep it in 30 as I never know when I'll get that wild moment on a bird or fox, etc. Example is the red necked phalaropes eating bugs. It happens so fast you never see it, they just look like they are bobbing their heads real fast. But after going through the images shooting that high speed, I was like WOW. Bug was even too small to see with the naked eye lol.
Thank you! Great, helpful video! You're a great R7 advocate! I'm looking to move to mirrorless (from D7), and I do have a budget to consider. I've read/watched all the "issues" raised with the R7: Inconsistent AF, rolling shutter, wobble... Those concerned me about buying a R7 vs R6MKii. I want to love the R7 because of the crop reach and higher MP's as I slowly build my RF lens collection (I'd rather invest in lenses than bodies). R7 features potentially give me the best options for wildlife photography. I've been shooting with a R7 for the past couple weeks with those things in mind, and I've experienced all the inconsistencies and frustrations. But I realize those are A) Operator error or B) Learning the equipment. Your videos on the R7 have done a lot to help me learn and appreciate the R7!
Great Video. Found the same with my R7. Exposure for AF is often a little brighter than I would like to accomodate the AF. Also found that in really low contrast/dark environments I gemuch better results remembering to use manual AF to get the subject roughly where it needs to be. Then let the back-button AF take over. Really stopped the continual hunting. Esp when the ambient light levels meant I'm at around iso 12800/25600 in dark rainforests. Really enjoyed the video and insight here.
I have an EOS R7 on the way to me now. I made the decision to jump ship, from my trusty, decade old, and well used, Nikon D7100 and start fresh with Canon in the mirrorless space. I had seen lots of other videos regarding the AF issues, and how to combat them, but non went into as much detail as you did here, so thank you for that. I think I'm prepared now for birding, and sports photography. I can't wait to get started with it. Thank you for sharing your thoughts.
In my experience the box stays on the eye but the focus still drifts, even when the subject is not moving. I think it's actually a firmware flaw/bug that should be able to be fixed. There are other, well established, firmware bugs that Canon has not addressed, like IBIS with manual lenses in video mode. I suspect, the issues with slower sensor readout are also true, and I can accept missed shots in those situations, but not with a static subject and the box firmly lock on.
Even though that box looks locked on, it's not. It's GUI, not necessarily the true micro movements once your hammering 30fps. Now, yes, this is ALL software fixable. Updated models and lens motor timing changes due to those speeds of a given sensor (and whatever processor and bus speeds that are needed) wow getting into the weeds pretty deep lol. Case in point : If you remember the R5 had an issue in the first year where the first shot or 2 in a burst was out of focus, but the rest would be in focus. They patched that out. Mostly anyway :) BUT I think we're all expecting a LOT from a $1,500 camera. I think my main point of the video was how to circumvent the drawback and not have those drifts in your bursts. Love you channel BTW. Never miss a video.
@@WILDALASKA That's a good point on the GUI. I do hope the R7 at least gets a bit more reliability, I have had enough issues that I'm on the verge of selling it. Side note: the "in the filed video", up against the tree, was really cool, loved that. Thanks for the kind words on my Chanel.
Understand on the camera ( I was same was in first 6 months on the r5 believe it or not) I try to do my reviews and such in the field, but weather up here doesn't always allow me to. Not just kind words...your channel is one that I always watch for reliable content and advise. And I have learned a lot from your videos.@@markwiemels
@@WILDALASKA it's funny with R7, cause adapted 100mm macro L has far less focus drifting than RF 100-400. This camera has no problem focusing on Saturn but has drifting when focusing a bird 50 meters away. My guess is that focus systems have become too sophisticated for sensor tech. They need to be more balanced.
@8:10 pls tell me if I understood d workaround correctly. Do you mean that in order to lock focus, and prevent it from jumping back and forth, all you have to do are the ff: 1. Increase exposure 2. Half press shutter and hold 3. Decrease the exposure 4. Full press shutter And you are good to go. Is it it correct?
increase exposure, get lock and hold lock then decrease exposure. don't release the lock if moving. if the subject is not moving then just get lock and release and then decrease exposure as you are now in the plane of focus you need.
If your contrast is too low it's still not going to lock. We shoot in very poor light most of the year. here in AK. So it's been tested heavily. Your MF pop is doing what I discuss with the single point of juts getting 'cloer' to the subject for the sensor and processor to determine its a subject of interest 😊
Hello, thank you for this video and the information in it. To clarify. If i understand you correctly. Your saying when a subject is stationary. I should be able to focus and get off the button (ive set up double back button focus) and take the photo as to avoid it hunting.. i should get more keepers this way. Correct? Obviously on stationary subjects..
Scott, another absolutely fantastic video and invaluable tips about how to use modern autofocus systems. You make a really strong argument for using back button autofocus. Knowing the strengths and limitations of your equipment is so important for obtaining great results.
Great video! It really is about how you learn to use the system you have within its limits and wring out performance. I think I'm looking @ the Cannon RF100-400 for my T7 in meantime(have to verify compatibility..EF series I KNOW works but RF+adaptermay still serve better..?), want to eventually get a R7 body also (for better control fine tuning)..I'd be happy with the 2 bodies/lens sets for different "reaches". I have gotten great close proximity (I walk alongside, behind, in front of, whichever way our travels play out) video & zoom stills of wildlife with the EF18-55mm & EF75-300mm lenses..I'm not having the reach of the 400-800mm range lenses, but with my groundwork and the approximately $600 Walmart bought kit, I'm getting great joy of the flexibility as I use the less "professional" grade camera to great effect..I may have some awaiting epiphanies in becoming even more proficient with it.. Knowing how the autofocus systems work has been a learning experience for me.. I photograph whitetail deer in low light, THAT is a greater challenge..usually have to revert to manual focus, which is not as "refined" as I would like when it comes to touch/feel/control, but works(I FEEL where I can upgrade, but pics come out good..IF I DON'T PUSH LIMITS..such as bright scenes & chromatic aberration!😬). You have a nice "quiet" spot there, don't mind the background noise..can't hear it in stills! Thanks for a great video!
This is a good video. Thanks for doing it. Yes, please do a video with the R7 and the RF 100-400. Maybe add the 1.4 teleconverter in a part of the video. I have them and use them a lot but maybe you’ll mention something about the combination that I never thought of. Again, thanks for the information.
I have a video of the combo but not the TC. If you watch any of the Kodiak trip videos, all the shots from my uncle, Don. are with that setup with the TC. I'll do one for sure at the first of 2023 for sure
Great video and explanation of this cameras AF. I have a R5 as well, and notice the differences that you explain in this video. I have also used the R7 for astrophotography, and let me tell you, the images you get are pretty amazing.
Thanks for the video. I am an amateur, and do almost exclusively I guess street or landscape, hard to say, but in urban environments. The R7 and 70-200 is a pretty appealing combination because I like long focal length since it's easier to grab the shots you want if you can get them from anywhere. And the R7 is high megapixel, opening up reframing in post. But the "soft focus" problem all over the Internet is not well explained. This is the video I needed.
If you can see you're subject and get the focus pointing the subject then hit 3d. I don't really use it as on large animals they don't move much so once I have focus plane, i'm good. and birds the auto af area works well.
Very insightful video. Completely agree about the R7/RF100-400 combination. A bargain that delivers excellent results in a compact form factor and low cost. I have had AF problems, though only with the EF100-400 Mk2 which also happens to be my favourite lens. The issue is not obtaining focus, but the confirmed in-focus AF point not coincident with the plane of focus i.e. what Duade comprehensively demonstrated. I have also seen it in good light too, and in one-shot as well as servo AF. By following your advice and Duade's I have managed to reduce this, and I suspect it is as you say down to the sensor readout speed. But I have not seen this with the RF100-400 (bought one for travel) or the RF100-500 (hired for a few days to see if the problem occurred with this lens). However others have. Canon have suggested getting the EF lens serviced, because this might improve the performance. Canon have been perhaps a little too keen with some claims for wildlife, especially small fast birds, but it is a fabulous camera as long as you know its strengths and weaknesses.
SO the EF 100-400... That's a lens I used a LOT with my 5D iii and iv. Loved that lens. When I got the R5 it was good but was slow to hit the focus point and missed like you described. SO it got traded in for RF glass. The difference was very noticeable. It may be a focus issue with that lens due to the mirrorless flange distance as I noticed it front focusing a lot. Or my lens had an issue. But it went bye-bye regardless which made me sad. Such a great lens on the 5D cameras.
@@WILDALASKA That's very interesting; thanks for sharing. The only 'problem' with hiring the RF 100-500 is that I now understand why people like it so much so will have to start saving. Noticeably lighter and the extra 100mm is most welcome. Just a shame the control ring isn't further forward. I use it for exposure conpensation and found it awkward to find. Whilst the new 200-800 should be great for wildlife, I have found the EF100-400 so versatile for all sorts of things. Having said that, now I have the RF100-400, maybe the 200-800 should be first on the list. I'll be looking out for your video! Keep up the great work.
Nice to have a detailed 1-year review video. As you mentioned, it would be really helpful if you make a video on R7 + 100-400rf as I'm planning to get that combo.
Great video, i was in the beginning also dissapointed by the AF performance, but since it was also a Sigma 150-600C where i had this issues mainly, known to be problematic regarding to AF... i didn't mind it too much. Also because im not spamming AF(C) too much, its not an issue and its very advised with the 3rd party 150-600 lens. Where i think its somewhat sad to see... when using lets say my Canon EF-S 17-55 2.8 indoors and at shorter focus distances, jumping forward/backward a lot to the point im giving up and either use single-AF or manual focus and proper focus peaking or b/w filter on my external screen (iPhone...). Also when doing BIF.... a good working AF-C is mandatory, otherwise you end up a lot with probably "nice" shots, but they are slightly out of focus. Then you can pick your poison: 30 fps with rolling shutter and missed focus 15 fps EFCS, no rolling shutter, still missed focus 15 fps electronic... rolling shutter but more precise and sticky AF 7 fps EFCS.... not too bad performance in overall, but canon advertised 15 EFCS/mech. and 30 fps electronic... so is it "just" a EOS 90D converted to mirrorless? My RF 800 F11 for example works not too bad, with a more sticky and slower AF setting as shown in one of Duade Patons videos i can pretty much hold AF-C nonstop, but with less light or less contrasty situations the habits learned with the Sigma 150-600C also applies. Im not so sure about the R7... on one side, its hard to find anything better for my needs at this price point (and the R7 was already like 2x over the planned budget for the camera...), on the other side with all of Canons claims about the R7 and marketing gags such as paid/supported youtubers praising it with leaving out some of the crucial downsides and limitations... i dont know. Im happy with it since its already way above my needs and budget, but if i could afford... R5 or R6 II all the way!
Check out the R8. you will be surprised with it. As far as the R7, nothing really hit the market like especially at the price point. The slower sensor is the achilles heel of it, but with this video I am trying to show how to overcome the AF on this camera and all the others by any manufacturer. Thanks for the info also.
@@WILDALASKA yeah, the R8 seems nice. I had the RP for over 2 years and LOVED it, but the R7 gave me more reach with RF 800 and 150-600mm lens For Astro stuff on a 750mm newtonian i miss the RP the most. But it would decrease reach again for wildlife so i just stick with R7
I watched this video when it first came out and just rewatched it now. I primarily photograph bald eagles. Any suggestions for the auto focus system for capturing birds in flight?
Same as I have in the setup video.It shoots well. If you shoot birds close to background subject (really close) then you may have some drift off. I don't like those images much unless I can blow out the background myself or motion blur it etc.
@@WILDALASKA When I'm tracking a BIF, I'll see the focus locked on the bird in the view finder. Then when I review my images in camera , Quite often I'll often see that the focus box is off the subject. Sometimes, it will grab a part of the body but many will be totally off the bird. I'm shooting an R7 setup exactly as you've describe in your setup video. RF100-500 lens. Same results with either electronic or electronic first curtain shutter. Both at 15 FPS.
I really like how you describe how the camera does a cycle for focusing. A lot of people really don’t understand what’s involved every time you push that magic little button. I have said it before and I’ll say it again. I really love using my R7. Mostly with either my RF 24-70 or my EF 70-200 2.8 mkii mounted. You mentioned I think your uncle uses his R7 with the EF 100-400 L mkii? I’m on the fence on purchasing that lens now that they brought out that RF 200-800 lens. I’m still leaning on the EF even though it’s half the focal range overall but brighter and better build overall. I’m still not crazy over the plastic design with these longer focal zooms. I still would love a really professional level build R7 crop sensor from Canon. Larger, all magnesium body and full weather sealing. This kind of reminds me of when they kept making cell phones smaller and smaller. Now look at them. Bigger and bigger. One big question I have for you? How do you get those moose to pose for you? I can’t even get my cat to pose for me. Anyways I really like the detailed info on just how to correct those missed focus issues with the R7. Totally makes sense. That’s how I think a pro series crop camera may possibly help out more. I always felt they have their place along with the full frame bodies. Sorry for the book I wrote. Just keep doing what you do. It’s great.
Great advice, had mine 6 months and still learning. Keep forgetting to go from bird to human when photographing wife she thinks I have a dud camera. I use Fv mostly but think I need to use the C buttons, 1 for animal,2 for humans and 3 for landscape. Thanks
Scott love your video's, thank you for taking your time to produce them. I'd like to ask if you have made any changes to your R7 set up from your intial video when it was first released or are they still the same? For photo's and video.
I had the R7 before i dropped it in a pond lol. For the price, think its limitations are warranted. I enjoyed the AF on the camera. The video specs are great for $1,500, and Im hoping the r7mk2 will fix the rolling shutter a bit more and a slightly bigger buffer I'd buy it as a b cam alongside the r5mk2 as my main camera. Heck, I'd still pick up a used r7 today for those on a budget for nature and wildlife for many of the features you stated. Even with its flaws. Wonderful shots Scott, and great review.
As an avid hobby photographer that is focused on birding and interview videos, the R7 looks like a great b cam next to my R5. I really need a backup camera anyway, as the R5 is my only camera and my son (5y) recently has started to join me on my birding outings.
Great video . . . but still wandering if it is really needed to remove AF from shutter button? I should think that BBF will override that when your are pressing it?
Yes it is. If you have your af on the shutter, it's going to compete with whatever Af you are selecting. And in my setup that set af that the shutter would initiate is the single point. And if im in subject detect or set my focus somewhere and don't want it to move and I hit that shutter...I move my af point. With this setup a LOT of the time I have already set my focus don't want that plane of focus to move. Like the moose. I got the focal plane set and don't need to move it again and may take several shots and not hit the focus anytime during those shots as I nor the moose have moved. And if I had that set to the shutter and my moose is in the left of the frame and I hit the shutter and my single point is in the center of the screen, now im focused somewhere wayyyy behind the moose. And conversely, if I had the subject detect depressed and hit the shutter (with af attached) I get a override to the single point. Hope that makes sense.
Great and helpful video. One question I have is about the point you made regarding using point and then capturing the eye using the AF button. I have been keeping my finger on the button as you mentioned whilst pressing the shutter button. Hence it can jump around. However I have just been out to try and practice what you said and as sound as I remove finger off of the AF button I lose the eye. What have I got incorrectly set? I thought I used you set up video some months ago to customise the buttons. Can you help? cheers Martin
You shouldn't be loosing the eye. Unless you seeing the eye out of focus in the image. Once you get lock and let go your focus doesn't move as its set to that distance. Only you or the bird will move to get it out of focus. I usually suggest reseting the camera before starting a new setup just in case something old you have set could interfere with the setup. Plus you have a clean slate to work with.
Focal plane….this is the key word AND the one, as a beginner photographer, I till have not a clear understanding of how to ether ‘calculate’ or determine in any respect for any given shot. Is there one thing on the R7 I should be setting or looking for in order to be very confident that my focal plane will get the ‘eye’ tack sharp?
So you can get apps like photopill and such for your phone or just make notes of your photos. Shoot your subject and when you get ti review time on your pc. Note the aperture , mm length and distance to subject and then see if you got the right amount of focal plane death for your subject.
Hello, good explanation I'm thinking of buying the r7 with a sigma 18-50 and a canon rf 100-400 My idea is to photograph motorsport events (mainly rally) and some air shows, do you think I will have this problem? If so, maybe the canon r8 would be a better choice?
Both are very good options. The sensors readout is better on the R8 for less rolling shutter and the MP on the r8 for your subject matter isn't an issue. So I would lean towards the r8, but the reach on the r7 and ibis in the body make it compelling also. Hard choice
@WILDALASKA i have been hasking on redit and youtube coments opinios and most of them lean toard the r7 because of 15 fps mecanical shuter so i dont have roling shuter, for now im just doing some serching But now i have been seing that R7 as some AF issue like you explained and i m afraid that i miss my shots
I think you need an apprentice, I volunteer myself. :) Thank you for imparting all your wisdom and experience to us with less experience, we appreciate all you do!
Have the R7 and love it....yes issues with autofocus at times but when upgrading from the 80D it is such a game changer. Shooting with Sigma 18-35 1.8 ART and 70-200 2.8 Sport. Just noticed that Canon released firmware update in December so maybe that will help with some of the issues?
I'm reasearching to upgrade from a Canon 80D to an R7 or R8, mainly for wildlife and bird photography. My go to lenses are the Sigma 150-600 mm C and the Canon EF 70-300mm IS USM. I've seen in a few reviews that the animal's eye tracking auto focus does not perform well with the EF mount lenses. Did you had issues with the EF mount that unable you to use them with the R7, or even the R8?
! Hello my dear friend, please tell me how on Canon R7, is it possible to make a test frame in video mode? (take a picture) without changing the settings, without taking a video or switching to photo mode? I mean, when you've set everything up, but you're not taking it off yet. Thanks to everyone who will help. I can't find how to do it... .
At 2:30. What exactly you mean with "exposure up". This has to do with translating to Dutch/English. You mean aperture up (to smaller number)? Or over expose with some stops? Sorry, im a noob.... :)
That's cool! I use a lot of the same focus techniques with my 7D ii. I don't have eye detect, but the single point trick that you were referring to in the beginning is a staple for me on deer, bear, and elk. Thanks for your thoughts on this! I am considering the R7 as my next camera body, but it is in competition with the R6. I do like the crop sensor on the R7 with that being what I am used to with the 32 mega pixles that I would love to have.
Changing the exposure sounds like a brilliant idea. I have been even shooting dark, to keep the highlights. I am definitely trying this tip, thank you. However i do think the readout speed of the sensor is the big difference with the R5. If i had not used the R5 the R7 would seem nearly perfect, much better than the 77D.
Hi Scott, top drawer video as ever, none of the sensationalist crap that clutters YT either. I agree with what you say 100%, its a damned good camera, is it the best out there? No it is not but at £1400 would you expect it to be? My gripe is that Canon sold it to us all as 'same AF as the R3 (for a much lower price)' and while it's very good i don't think its that good. What i would say is that the issue of the sensor read out speed is crucial (as you stress in the video), the R7 is 31m/s but.......the R8 is 14m/s and out in the field it shows. I am lucky enough to have both and the R8 is 'stickier' there are no two ways about it. Having said that i have taken great photos with the R7 and i love it.
It's the same technology for the af that is (R3). It reacts fairly close to the r3. Same with the R8 whip also love. And yes you can tell with that sensor speed. Thanks for the kind words also :) Happy shooting 🐻
Great video!! I'm planning to buy the R7 in the near future. One question, between the RF 100-400 and the Ef 100-400 II, which is better? I can buy the RF100-400 new or the Ef 100-400ii second handed.
Both are great lenses. The RF is very sharp and very light. The EF is a very good lens and great glass and 5.6 aperture. The only drawback is that the AF will not be as good as the RF. BUT it's still very good and usable AF. So me if I had a choice of the 2. most days id pick the EF just due to its construction, aperture and glass
You really make me miss Alaska! I lived there for 8 years in the ‘90’s and did a lot of photography. Of course, it was on film back then 😂 I haven’t been shooting much for a while and I’m looking at getting the R7 and I’ve been watching your videos on it. The last cameras I bought were the 7D and 5D2, so an upgrade is called for. I’m really looking forward to the autofocus, especially the eye recognition. That is new to me and I struggled with eye sharpness on birds with my 7D, especially with BIF. Is that an EF 500 you’re using? Is there any quality loss on an RF body? My biggest lens is the EF 300 f/4L and I’d like to continue using it, as well as perhaps getting the RF 100-400 that you and many others recommend. Thanks for the great videos and reminders of my time in Alaska!
Yes it's an EF 500f4 MKII and it works without issue. The r7+ RF 100-400 is a great combo. My uncle uses it and loves it. Ive used it also and its cool little rig.
I haven't done but on early update. All the updates have been minor or lens compatibility. Ill check when I get a chance and mention what version im suing for firmware in the next r7 video
Already did one on the combo 😉. Check through my videos as you might find a lot of of other stuff also. Here's the link to the video. th-cam.com/video/Gqazzuyadyo/w-d-xo.html
@@manmohangour368 The main things to note on the RF 100-400 especially on R10/R7 are: - know the limitations.... F8 can be "horrendous" for photographic usage, but also "enough" under different, yet similar circumstances especially for video mostly. - 400mm sounds more than it is, also on 1,6x crop. Im mainly a birder of small birds, but i found 400mm too SHORT. 500-800mm (so 750-1280mm effective) is my sweet spot i use the most. - OIS/IBIS performance is awesome on R7 and just for that i would love the RF 100-400 lens as a "compact" general use telezoom - price.... yes, its "good"... but if you are willing to make other compromises, such as + 1000g added weight and less good stabiliser as well some AF quirks (easy to come by with technique), you get for example with a Sigma 150-600C (or Tamron) for the same price (or less, 2nd hand) a very different, "better" lens. 600mm F6.3 are... very good, stopped down to F7.1 or even F8/F9 AWESOME crisp and "professional" looking, 400 F8 on the RF 100-400, "ok" at best.
Absolutely. Here are 3 videos I made on the R10: th-cam.com/video/x8cuHsk53_0/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/TfVJWyg_nVA/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/za22WQqPG7w/w-d-xo.html
@@WILDALASKA FYI a little tip if you replace with this eye piece from amazon. I had my replacement come apart in short order. I popped it apart reseated the rubber eye cup. Then cut a piece of black electrical tape and ran around the outside over the joint where the rubber meets the base. No more issues in the last few months. ..I'd suggest the tape on initial install.
Hey Scott. One thing I'm Constantly fighting with my r6mk2 is as an osprey dives I may be locked on but almost every time I lose him on his way to the water. Someone suggested using one of those group focus boxes? If I have trees way off say 100 yards away on the banks of the lake as soon as the osprey gets in line with the trees I lose him. Soooooo frustrating. Seems like the r7 is better in those circumstances? Thanks and no hurry for reply or suggestion. I practice all the time and have only had a couple good diving osprey experiences.
I would say play with the AF cases and see if you can find one that tracks your movement and the birds. Also you may need to be on setting 1 on your lens also for the vert stab will help. Ive found if I concentrate more on where I 'lose' a bird in flight with that AF case and my concentration, I have more success in hitting that area of flight. Kingfishers diving comes to mind. Once I concentrate more on the last bit of flight before water entry I get more success, than trying to grab its initial drop from the perch.
Makes sense Scott and I really appreciate you taking time to help. Absolutely love all you do. I'm also considering down the road getting a used r7. For reach and the megapixel since I crop alot. Thanks again my friend 😊
Hello Scott, thank you for sharing this! Just a question as I ordered the RF 200-800 and have a Sigma 150-600, when you mount the 500mm F4 are your autofocus settings very different compared to your RF 100-400 by example or have you managed to find a common setting for all your lenses? Thank you, best from France, Ludo
Exactly the same. The AF works exactly the same on the EF lenses as a RF lens. Now the sigma will have issues as its 3rd party. Duade Paton had a video on some settings you could change.
Thank you for your reply ! this confirms what I think I am going to sell my Sigma because I don't see using several autofocus settings depending on this or that lens! I am already applying Duade Paton's settings with a few modifications and I suspect that the settings for my future RF200-800 will be very different! Thanks again, best from France, Ludo@@WILDALASKA
Scott the best practical explanation on how to use this great camera by far I was out last night with the R7 I have had it a month and I am still learning but due to your practical advice I way further advanced on one month. Love your content many thanks Ian.
I guess I need to try this before I knock it :) I've contemplated getting off of my EAF after I've acquired focus, but my thought is, How do I know that at the micro second I remove my thumb from my back button focus, that it is hitting perfect focus ??? "Most" of the time, with good contrast, my EAF box stays small, and right on the eye. Yet critical focus jumps around somewhat. So, in my mind, taking my thumb off of the EAF button, "might" result in a big long burst of shots, every one sharp as a tack.... OR, a big long burst, every one of them soft :( So instead of 1 sharp, 2 soft, 2 sharp 2 soft, 3 sharp, 1 soft..... It will be either 19 sharp... or 19 soft ? Love my two R7's btw. I've taken about 130K shots with my original one in the last 14 months. Almost always end up getting some razor sharp ones, in a burst.
Just remember Plane of Focus. See what's in focus when you get a snap to eye. If it's too shallow , increase it. Or if it's right and your subjects head is staying within that plane of focus, then you will get sharp shots. Staying on that AF while shooting can cause drift.
@@WILDALASKA Interesting... i had the EF 100-400 Mk2 for some weeks but sold it. Not because i didnt like it, but because someone else paid me more money than i did. I really thought about replacing the Sigma 150-600C with the EF Mk2, mainly because of the noticeable better image stabiliser and less AF pulsing, but the missing 200mm were pretty harsh to come by once used to 400-600mm usage on the Sigma lens. My only "issue" with the 100-400 II was... 100-399mm... couldnt have cared less about them, it was exclusively used on 400mm. I guess for a wildlife lens more than 400mm is just advised in many cases, but im also a birder and our local birds are small and jumpy, so i need reach most of the time.
I’m using the 100-400 v2 and getting great results even with the TC v3. The key for me was ES first curtain, 15fps and C raw. I have the problem with a busy background affecting focus so I have a custom setting set for single point focus and that seems to help it.
Need some help here Does the R7 perform well in -6 degrees? Is it in any danger if used in -6 degrees temperatures? I am going on a trip where the temperatures range from 4 degree Celsius to -6 degrees Celsius. I am torn between taking the R7 and leaving it behind. I am dying to take the camera as the views and landscapes are really beautiful, and u don’t want to loose this opportunity. So it will be a great help if I can know about the above. And if there are any precautions I can take to avoid the worst. It’s a brand new camera btw. So please help me here.
Mine has been down to -30 several times. Just have extra batteries and put the camera in a ziplock bag after extended exposure in negative temps when bringing it back into the vehicle or house after your done with it.
Wow Scott after watching this and shooting mostly predator birds with my r6mk2 and ef 100 to 400L2 I'm about to sell my r6mk2 and get the r7. Great review thanks brother
@waynedettman6472 oh I was being sarcastic my friend. I love my r6mk2. I may pick up a used r7 sometime. If I ever decide to get rid of the mark 2 I will reach out. Sorry if I was misleading.
I am serious going for the Canon R7 because I a plane spotter. In your video are you near Seattle Airport, there is lots of airplane noise in the background of the video.
It's Anchorage, Ted Stevens airport. And you can be anywhere in the city and hear airplanes. 3 civilian airports and 1 military. Anchorage is one big airport lol.
The RF100-400 an awesome lens on the R7. Good you’re sharing the tips on cameras. Contrast and use of single focus AF and BBF. I’m mainly into sports and use Servo and even electronic indoors works great for me, for critical events I use 1st curtain (I think gives more bit depth along with the anti flickr feature). RF600/11 is cool too when I walk around and shoot the deer at the local woods
So hummingbirds...This approach works great as you are probably going to be set up on a feeder or a perch near the feeder. In this case you would get a point close to where they are going to come in to the feeder and have your depth of field set to capture the whole bird at that spot. So once it pops into the area your AF will be primed and lock on well. Pop the lock, get off the button and Hamer the shutter. Once it starts to back away hit the auto focus again and repeat
Don't stay on the subject detect too long if subject is in plane of focus to avoid the dreaded "drift" and its a very good camera especially for the price for wildlife.
😱 Tell me about Wild Alaska, Wild Alaska ! Is this not the most NOISY place on Earth !? I mean : The whole Earth !? Thank you for the content 👍, but...😱😱😱
A bunch of us were having auto focus jumping issues with the 100-500 A guy finally got an answer from canon on this. Basically the r7 should not have as much FPs as it does for the processor it has here is his video.. th-cam.com/video/hsmY4f1J0t8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=kKy0YqyC00BlXqgb
Yes I referenced it in the video. The jump is 2 things, using the af on too much and the sensors speed communicating with the lens motors. the combination at 30 fps will cause this. Happens on r5 also except less frequent as the sensor speed is twice as fast and your fps is lower. Use the subject detect ONLY when needed if your subject stays within the depth of field. By using the subject detect too long once you have lock and within the depth of field you give the ai more time to decide to move the focal point away from where you want it.
Why do Sony owners feel the constant need to feel validated, that they bought the 'right' brand ? Why are they so insecure ? Canon users never jump on the comments of a Sony gear video, and proclaim Canon is best, so why do Sony fanbois do that ?
Great video. Guess the old saying “only a poor tradesman blames his tools” stands true here. Only problem is sometimes it’s difficult to figure these things out and you’ve done a fantastic job explaining what’s happening and how to get around them. Well done and thank you!
True. Its never our fault, it has to be the camera.. 😆
Another great video; thanks for sharing some awesome shots. I've used the R7 with RF100-500 for over a year, mostly for birds and sports, stills and video. The truth is that I've never wanted to use the maximum frame rate of 30 fps, since I find it hard to review so many shots in post. As a result, I never ran into the problems you describe with the AF "defocusing" at faster frame rates. While I understand why some users might be disappointed by Canon's lack of transparency as to its maximum specs, this wasn't a major impediment for me, and it might perhaps have been unrealistic to expect the same performance as in the R5 given the price difference. Perhaps more important to me is how the light-weight body makes it susceptible to shutter shock with the mechanical shutter, but this can be easily avoided with the electronic first curtain shutter, again as long as you can live with 7-15 fps. This also avoid the issue of rolling shutter, as I rely on the electronic shutter only if I want a "silent" mode. I have no regrets, particularly when paired with the RF 100-500. The dual USM focus motors make for accurate, responsive AF; the lens OIS works well with the built-in IBIS; and the image quality is spectacular. I'm waiting to see how well it works with the rumoured RF 200-800 (soon to be announced according to Canon Rumours), so I'm hoping you plan to review it. The only other comment I would make is there is now a third party battery grip from Custom Battery Grips, which provides a longer battery life and accommodates larger hands.
Thanks for sharing. I heard about that grip and looked at it but I don't remember why I dismissed it. I'll need to check it out again. The thanks
Is the shutter shock a problem in general or just certain shooting conditions? I’ve heard a couple of people mention it but most never do. It’s making me wary of getting this model as I’m used to always using a camera with mechanical shutter and see no need to use anything else. I don’t do very high frame burst photography as a rule so never needed to look into using (or understanding ) electrical shutter. I am currently looking to come back to Canon so it’s a big decision that I don’t want to get wrong! I used to have a 90d and traded to go mirrorless. The main difference for me was seeing a live representation of the image exposure which I think I might miss if I go back to a dslr - maybe?! I really like the ergonomics of canon but don’t have a high lens budget so it’s a dilemma! Thanks
@@traceybartlam7737 I was initially sceptical, but then I systematically compared images with the mechanical shutter under a variety of conditions and found that image sharpness was compromised with the. mechanical shutter in virtually all shooting scenarios. It's not really an impediment, though, as the first curtain electronic shutter avoids the problem, without the rolling shutter issues seen with the electronic shutter i.e. just use the first curtain electronic shutter as your primary shutter mode. In addition to eliminating shutter shock, there is less wear-and-tear on the mechanical shutter. The only downside is the maximum of 15 frames per second, like the mechanical shutter.
@@traceybartlam7737 In my experience, the shutter shock is seen with the mechanical shutter in all shooting conditions. But it's easy to avoid by using the first curtain electronic shutter, which also reduces the wear-and-tear on the mechanical shutter and avoids the rolling shutter issues seen with the electronic shutter. The only downside of the FCES is the limitation of maximum frame rate to 15 fps, just like the mechanical shutter.
@@traceybartlam7737 For some reason, my reply doesn't seem to "take". So apologies if this is a repeat. In my experience, the mechanical shutter was associated with softer images in all shooting scenarios. But this is easily avoided with the first curtain electronic shutter, which also avoids the rolling shutter issues of the electronic shutter. The only downside is the maximum frame rate (15 fps, just like the mechanical shutter). Also, to be frank, I only appreciated the difference in image quality when I switched from mechanical to first curtain electronic shutter, so I might have merrily continued with the mechanical shutter without knowing any better 😄. Incidentally, I agree with you: Once you have adapted to the WYSIWYG mode of mirrorless cameras, it's impossible to go back.
I bought mine for the reach and AF. Could not be happier. Problem is, that sensor is actually pretty good. So now I am doing stuff I never planned for - buying lenses for wide etc. Never what I intended, but man. Still use a ton on EF glass and very happy. My staple is R7 with used EF 100-400 F5.6 L ii and 1.4x iii sometimes. At $2350 all in that is a killer setup for budget.
very cool 👍
Terrific video and I sincerely appreciate it! As a R7/RF 100-500 owner, I found your tips on the R7 autofocus invaluable. I enjoy all of your videos and always look forward to your next production. Many thanks!
Great to hear!
Great video. I was planning to upgrade to an R7 from my older Canon DSLR and was always hearing about the autofocus issues. You were the first person to really explain the issues and how to overcome them. I'm now really looking forward to purchase the Canon R7. Thank you for your great video.
Glad it was helpful!
Great stuff Scott. It's rare that 'power users' such as yourself, will take the time after a full year of use to re-visit the equipment and give an honest review. I use the combo of R7 and 100-500mm Rf photographing sea mammals and birds on the central and north coast of BC and believe it is a very effective package for handheld use! To avoid rolling shutter I shoot electronic first and find that 15fps is fine in most cases. Thanks once again for the great content that you post here.
👍 thanks
The R7 is the best camera I ever use. Before I used a 7D mark II and I can't believe in the performance of the R7 compared to any DSLR. I shot more small birds in dark rainforest and even with my Sigma 150-600, a lens that many people say that don't march well with the R7 I come back from the field with amazing photos and videos.
The Sigma takes great pictures. The hit rate suffers a hair on the canon R system cameras, but nothing you can't get around. I have a video on the channel with the Tamron equivalent and the point was to prove that the lens was sharp and could get great images.
@@WILDALASKA nice to know that you have a video testing the Tamron. I'll watch. Yes, these lenses are very sharp and despite we get some soft shots I still get much more sharp ones than with the 7D.
I picked up a R7 about 6 months ago and have shot a few thousand photo's with it. Works fantastic even with the few limitations you mentioned for the price its an amazing value for what you get.
I've been using EFC for panning and birds flying and have set the DOF button to electronic shutter for when I'm not worried about rolling shutter.
Great video as always thanks for time you put into making them !
Thanks
You’ve gotten it soaked in the rain for many hours? I’ve heard mixed things about the weather sealing. I’d love to take it out shooting in the snow but I’ve been afraid to.
Yes, The video buttons stopped working but I could still shoot stills after a few hours. Once the camera dried out after a couple hours, everything was fine and dandy. It's been in a lot of snow also. No issues there.
NONE of this is advisable lol. But it happened @@leemarkowitz4709
Amazing video. I currently own the R7 and the RF 100-500. What an amazing combo. Not holding down the back AF button helped 95% in getting sharp shots. Love your videos and thanks for sharing. 📸👍
Great to hear!
That's fine, except when shooting constant action.
@@alansach8437agree obviously when birds in flight you’ll have to hold it down. But the hit rates about 85%. Let’s be honest here, let’s say the hit rate was 100% and you hold down on that shutter for 3 seconds that’s 90 photos. So now you have 90 in focus shots, are you keeping all of them?? Are you editing all 90?? Guaranteed you’ll keep 5.
consistent actions.e. moving out of initial focal plane is different. Say BIF or hopping branches etc, the autofocus will work fine as its following the subject detected, unless you hit. branch as It can still get confused.
@@WILDALASKA 👍
very concise and very thorough …. Covered a lot of important topics and ways to work with R7 effectively thank you great video
Glad you enjoyed it!
Love this video. Not holding the AF will be a game changer for me… This video also really hits on the vibe that makes wildlife photography so great.
Glad you enjoyed it!
R5 100-500 shooter here. I find the R7 intriguing as a second body. Weight being a consideration for me. The reach would be welcome. I appreciate your comments about laying off the focus button after it’s locked. It’s something I’m trying to remember to do. I shoot mostly birds and they are always on the move. I really appreciate you showing us, in the field, how the operation of these cameras work! I can’t wait to check out your other videos!
glad it was helpful
Hey Scott, great in depth chat on the R7. It's my second body next to m R5 and it's been great. My only quibble is the occasional rolling shutter but otherwise it's pretty terrific for bird and wildlife. I will take your advise and back off continuously pressing down the back button autofocus. I also had the issue with the eye piece but i followed your recommendation for replacing it and that has worked out well. I'm thinking that the R7 paired with the expected new RF 200-800mm will be quite the set up when available. Thanks again for the sage advice, and kudos to you for delivering a great review with your back to a bull moose!!!
Glad it was helpful!
What a fantastic video on the R7! The best I've seen on youtube so far. I love the technical details that are easy to understand and make perfect sense. I watched the whole video and really enjoyed it.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Just received my R7 and can’t wait to start shooting. Will be using my 70-200 and 100-400 IS using an adapter , shooting mostly wildlife here in Montana as well as some landscapes using the 24-70. Thanks for the tips. I enjoyed the video. Keep em rolling..
Congrats 🎉 here's a setup video that may be helpful th-cam.com/video/tQwyMzlj1gE/w-d-xo.html
Completely agree with the letting the button los, if you have the af looking for movement and there is t movement it's going to get lost for short periods till it notices that actually there was nothing moving
👍
Again a very, very nice video. My compliments, superb. I'm using the combo R7 with the RF 100-500 for some months. Using it as you showed it at several video's (BB-setup, single point, eye detections, settings, etc.). Shooting 30 fps without any problems (for 90%). An amazing combo!! It would be very nice if you make a long term video about this combo.
Thanks. That's a good combo
Is it better to shoot in mechanical or electronical 1st curstain. I always shoot on spot AF and never have issues but my arm movement btw
I shoot 15fps and haven't seen the in focus / out of focus thing very much. Once in a while but not frequently. I keep it at 15 so that I have consistency between electronic shutter and mechanical. I can't say honestly that I've missed a shot at 15fps that 30fps would have captured. It is an easy enough switch should I ever really want to bump it up for a specific situation. My experience with the R7 is similar to yours.
I just keep it in 30 as I never know when I'll get that wild moment on a bird or fox, etc. Example is the red necked phalaropes eating bugs. It happens so fast you never see it, they just look like they are bobbing their heads real fast. But after going through the images shooting that high speed, I was like WOW. Bug was even too small to see with the naked eye lol.
@@WILDALASKA Thanks. I will have to give 30 a try and see how it would impact my workflow. Always open to new ideas. That is how we learn and grow.
Thank you! Great, helpful video! You're a great R7 advocate! I'm looking to move to mirrorless (from D7), and I do have a budget to consider. I've read/watched all the "issues" raised with the R7: Inconsistent AF, rolling shutter, wobble... Those concerned me about buying a R7 vs R6MKii. I want to love the R7 because of the crop reach and higher MP's as I slowly build my RF lens collection (I'd rather invest in lenses than bodies). R7 features potentially give me the best options for wildlife photography.
I've been shooting with a R7 for the past couple weeks with those things in mind, and I've experienced all the inconsistencies and frustrations. But I realize those are A) Operator error or B) Learning the equipment. Your videos on the R7 have done a lot to help me learn and appreciate the R7!
good info and agree, you have to learn each camera in and out.
Great Video. Found the same with my R7. Exposure for AF is often a little brighter than I would like to accomodate the AF. Also found that in really low contrast/dark environments I gemuch better results remembering to use manual AF to get the subject roughly where it needs to be. Then let the back-button AF take over. Really stopped the continual hunting. Esp when the ambient light levels meant I'm at around iso 12800/25600 in dark rainforests. Really enjoyed the video and insight here.
thx
I have an EOS R7 on the way to me now. I made the decision to jump ship, from my trusty, decade old, and well used, Nikon D7100 and start fresh with Canon in the mirrorless space. I had seen lots of other videos regarding the AF issues, and how to combat them, but non went into as much detail as you did here, so thank you for that. I think I'm prepared now for birding, and sports photography. I can't wait to get started with it. Thank you for sharing your thoughts.
👍
Would definitely benefit from you doing another video with the RF 100-400 please , thank you
soon
In my experience the box stays on the eye but the focus still drifts, even when the subject is not moving. I think it's actually a firmware flaw/bug that should be able to be fixed. There are other, well established, firmware bugs that Canon has not addressed, like IBIS with manual lenses in video mode. I suspect, the issues with slower sensor readout are also true, and I can accept missed shots in those situations, but not with a static subject and the box firmly lock on.
Even though that box looks locked on, it's not. It's GUI, not necessarily the true micro movements once your hammering 30fps.
Now, yes, this is ALL software fixable. Updated models and lens motor timing changes due to those speeds of a given sensor (and whatever processor and bus speeds that are needed) wow getting into the weeds pretty deep lol.
Case in point : If you remember the R5 had an issue in the first year where the first shot or 2 in a burst was out of focus, but the rest would be in focus. They patched that out. Mostly anyway :)
BUT I think we're all expecting a LOT from a $1,500 camera.
I think my main point of the video was how to circumvent the drawback and not have those drifts in your bursts.
Love you channel BTW. Never miss a video.
@@WILDALASKA That's a good point on the GUI. I do hope the R7 at least gets a bit more reliability, I have had enough issues that I'm on the verge of selling it. Side note: the "in the filed video", up against the tree, was really cool, loved that. Thanks for the kind words on my Chanel.
Understand on the camera ( I was same was in first 6 months on the r5 believe it or not) I try to do my reviews and such in the field, but weather up here doesn't always allow me to. Not just kind words...your channel is one that I always watch for reliable content and advise. And I have learned a lot from your videos.@@markwiemels
@@WILDALASKA it's funny with R7, cause adapted 100mm macro L has far less focus drifting than RF 100-400. This camera has no problem focusing on Saturn but has drifting when focusing a bird 50 meters away. My guess is that focus systems have become too sophisticated for sensor tech. They need to be more balanced.
Well done & I've found the same issues & now I know how to overcome these limitations.
🐻👍
@8:10 pls tell me if I understood d workaround correctly.
Do you mean that in order to lock focus, and prevent it from jumping back and forth, all you have to do are the ff:
1. Increase exposure
2. Half press shutter and hold
3. Decrease the exposure
4. Full press shutter
And you are good to go.
Is it it correct?
increase exposure, get lock and hold lock then decrease exposure. don't release the lock if moving. if the subject is not moving then just get lock and release and then decrease exposure as you are now in the plane of focus you need.
@@WILDALASKA owryt
.. ill try this one
Thank you so much for this video. Awesome explanation of how everything works and what to expect of it at 30 frames per second.
Glad it was helpful 🐻
I find that rather than bumping up iso for a sec in these situations, just using the manual focus ring and reengaging AF works pretty well.
If your contrast is too low it's still not going to lock. We shoot in very poor light most of the year. here in AK. So it's been tested heavily. Your MF pop is doing what I discuss with the single point of juts getting 'cloer' to the subject for the sensor and processor to determine its a subject of interest 😊
Hello, thank you for this video and the information in it.
To clarify. If i understand you correctly.
Your saying when a subject is stationary. I should be able to focus and get off the button (ive set up double back button focus) and take the photo as to avoid it hunting.. i should get more keepers this way. Correct? Obviously on stationary subjects..
yes
Scott, another absolutely fantastic video and invaluable tips about how to use modern autofocus systems. You make a really strong argument for using back button autofocus. Knowing the strengths and limitations of your equipment is so important for obtaining great results.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! It really is about how you learn to use the system you have within its limits and wring out performance.
I think I'm looking @ the Cannon RF100-400 for my T7 in meantime(have to verify compatibility..EF series I KNOW works but RF+adaptermay still serve better..?), want to eventually get a R7 body also (for better control fine tuning)..I'd be happy with the 2 bodies/lens sets for different "reaches".
I have gotten great close proximity (I walk alongside, behind, in front of, whichever way our travels play out) video & zoom stills of wildlife with the EF18-55mm & EF75-300mm lenses..I'm not having the reach of the 400-800mm range lenses, but with my groundwork and the approximately $600 Walmart bought kit, I'm getting great joy of the flexibility as I use the less "professional" grade camera to great effect..I may have some awaiting epiphanies in becoming even more proficient with it..
Knowing how the autofocus systems work has been a learning experience for me..
I photograph whitetail deer in low light, THAT is a greater challenge..usually have to revert to manual focus, which is not as "refined" as I would like when it comes to touch/feel/control, but works(I FEEL where I can upgrade, but pics come out good..IF I DON'T PUSH LIMITS..such as bright scenes & chromatic aberration!😬).
You have a nice "quiet" spot there, don't mind the background noise..can't hear it in stills!
Thanks for a great video!
RF lenses only work on R series cameras. Won't work on a T7
@@WILDALASKA I hadn't checked for an adapter or functionality to step down..
This is a good video. Thanks for doing it. Yes, please do a video with the R7 and the RF 100-400. Maybe add the 1.4 teleconverter in a part of the video. I have them and use them a lot but maybe you’ll mention something about the combination that I never thought of. Again, thanks for the information.
I have a video of the combo but not the TC. If you watch any of the Kodiak trip videos, all the shots from my uncle, Don. are with that setup with the TC. I'll do one for sure at the first of 2023 for sure
Great video and explanation of this cameras AF. I have a R5 as well, and notice the differences that you explain in this video. I have also used the R7 for astrophotography, and let me tell you, the images you get are pretty amazing.
Thanks and very cool. I shot some aurora on it last year also. Performs pretty well.
Thanks for the video. I am an amateur, and do almost exclusively I guess street or landscape, hard to say, but in urban environments. The R7 and 70-200 is a pretty appealing combination because I like long focal length since it's easier to grab the shots you want if you can get them from anywhere. And the R7 is high megapixel, opening up reframing in post.
But the "soft focus" problem all over the Internet is not well explained. This is the video I needed.
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for more great info on how to focus with today’s cameras. Do you have anything that explains how and when to use Nikon’s 3D Tracking?
If you can see you're subject and get the focus pointing the subject then hit 3d. I don't really use it as on large animals they don't move much so once I have focus plane, i'm good. and birds the auto af area works well.
Thanks so much for sharing another wonderful video like always, I love my R7 and I am super happy with the results I get 👍🐦
Great to hear!
Very insightful video. Completely agree about the R7/RF100-400 combination. A bargain that delivers excellent results in a compact form factor and low cost.
I have had AF problems, though only with the EF100-400 Mk2 which also happens to be my favourite lens. The issue is not obtaining focus, but the confirmed in-focus AF point not coincident with the plane of focus i.e. what Duade comprehensively demonstrated. I have also seen it in good light too, and in one-shot as well as servo AF.
By following your advice and Duade's I have managed to reduce this, and I suspect it is as you say down to the sensor readout speed. But I have not seen this with the RF100-400 (bought one for travel) or the RF100-500 (hired for a few days to see if the problem occurred with this lens). However others have. Canon have suggested getting the EF lens serviced, because this might improve the performance.
Canon have been perhaps a little too keen with some claims for wildlife, especially small fast birds, but it is a fabulous camera as long as you know its strengths and weaknesses.
SO the EF 100-400... That's a lens I used a LOT with my 5D iii and iv. Loved that lens. When I got the R5 it was good but was slow to hit the focus point and missed like you described. SO it got traded in for RF glass. The difference was very noticeable. It may be a focus issue with that lens due to the mirrorless flange distance as I noticed it front focusing a lot. Or my lens had an issue. But it went bye-bye regardless which made me sad. Such a great lens on the 5D cameras.
@@WILDALASKA That's very interesting; thanks for sharing. The only 'problem' with hiring the RF 100-500 is that I now understand why people like it so much so will have to start saving. Noticeably lighter and the extra 100mm is most welcome. Just a shame the control ring isn't further forward. I use it for exposure conpensation and found it awkward to find. Whilst the new 200-800 should be great for wildlife, I have found the EF100-400 so versatile for all sorts of things. Having said that, now I have the RF100-400, maybe the 200-800 should be first on the list. I'll be looking out for your video! Keep up the great work.
Nice to have a detailed 1-year review video. As you mentioned, it would be really helpful if you make a video on R7 + 100-400rf as I'm planning to get that combo.
I'll Probably do a new one soon. IN the meantime here's the original one I made last year. th-cam.com/video/Gqazzuyadyo/w-d-xo.html
Great video Scott! Thank you
Glad you liked it!
Great video, i was in the beginning also dissapointed by the AF performance, but since it was also a Sigma 150-600C where i had this issues mainly, known to be problematic regarding to AF... i didn't mind it too much. Also because im not spamming AF(C) too much, its not an issue and its very advised with the 3rd party 150-600 lens.
Where i think its somewhat sad to see... when using lets say my Canon EF-S 17-55 2.8 indoors and at shorter focus distances, jumping forward/backward a lot to the point im giving up and either use single-AF or manual focus and proper focus peaking or b/w filter on my external screen (iPhone...). Also when doing BIF.... a good working AF-C is mandatory, otherwise you end up a lot with probably "nice" shots, but they are slightly out of focus. Then you can pick your poison:
30 fps with rolling shutter and missed focus
15 fps EFCS, no rolling shutter, still missed focus
15 fps electronic... rolling shutter but more precise and sticky AF
7 fps EFCS.... not too bad performance in overall, but canon advertised 15 EFCS/mech. and 30 fps electronic... so is it "just" a EOS 90D converted to mirrorless?
My RF 800 F11 for example works not too bad, with a more sticky and slower AF setting as shown in one of Duade Patons videos i can pretty much hold AF-C nonstop, but with less light or less contrasty situations the habits learned with the Sigma 150-600C also applies.
Im not so sure about the R7... on one side, its hard to find anything better for my needs at this price point (and the R7 was already like 2x over the planned budget for the camera...), on the other side with all of Canons claims about the R7 and marketing gags such as paid/supported youtubers praising it with leaving out some of the crucial downsides and limitations... i dont know. Im happy with it since its already way above my needs and budget, but if i could afford... R5 or R6 II all the way!
Check out the R8. you will be surprised with it.
As far as the R7, nothing really hit the market like especially at the price point. The slower sensor is the achilles heel of it, but with this video I am trying to show how to overcome the AF on this camera and all the others by any manufacturer.
Thanks for the info also.
@@WILDALASKA yeah, the R8 seems nice.
I had the RP for over 2 years and LOVED it, but the R7 gave me more reach with RF 800 and 150-600mm lens
For Astro stuff on a 750mm newtonian i miss the RP the most. But it would decrease reach again for wildlife so i just stick with R7
Hello! Please write if a flash is suitable
Godox Ving V860IIIC to my Canon EOS R7?
in mechanical shutter it should be
@@WILDALASKA Thank You. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I also think the higher pixel density can adversely effect the contrast between pixels as well. As each pixel is getting less light.
👍
Thanks for the video and the tips! I recently purchased a used R7 and I love it! I was wondering if you could share what your strap is please?
its in the video description. Its a peak design strap
I watched this video when it first came out and just rewatched it now.
I primarily photograph bald eagles. Any suggestions for the auto focus system for capturing birds in flight?
Same as I have in the setup video.It shoots well.
If you shoot birds close to background subject (really close) then you may have some drift off. I don't like those images much unless I can blow out the background myself or motion blur it etc.
@@WILDALASKA When I'm tracking a BIF, I'll see the focus locked on the bird in the view finder. Then when I review my images in camera , Quite often I'll often see that the focus box is off the subject. Sometimes, it will grab a part of the body but many will be totally off the bird.
I'm shooting an R7 setup exactly as you've describe in your setup video. RF100-500 lens.
Same results with either electronic or electronic first curtain shutter. Both at 15 FPS.
I really like how you describe how the camera does a cycle for focusing. A lot of people really don’t understand what’s involved every time you push that magic little button. I have said it before and I’ll say it again. I really love using my R7. Mostly with either my RF 24-70 or my EF 70-200 2.8 mkii mounted. You mentioned I think your uncle uses his R7 with the EF 100-400 L mkii? I’m on the fence on purchasing that lens now that they brought out that RF 200-800 lens. I’m still leaning on the EF even though it’s half the focal range overall but brighter and better build overall. I’m still not crazy over the plastic design with these longer focal zooms.
I still would love a really professional level build R7 crop sensor from Canon. Larger, all magnesium body and full weather sealing. This kind of reminds me of when they kept making cell phones smaller and smaller. Now look at them. Bigger and bigger.
One big question I have for you? How do you get those moose to pose for you? I can’t even get my cat to pose for me. Anyways I really like the detailed info on just how to correct those missed focus issues with the R7. Totally makes sense. That’s how I think a pro series crop camera may possibly help out more. I always felt they have their place along with the full frame bodies. Sorry for the book I wrote. Just keep doing what you do. It’s great.
Don uses the RF 100-400. The moose are really used to people here around Anchorage ;)
Excellent video Scott👍
Thanks 👍
Thanks for the great video. Looking for a new strap. Please share which strap you prefer. Did not see a link below.
Peak Design SL-BK-3 Slide, Camera Strap amzn.to/48rGL9R
Thanks, Scott. Live in ER. Hopefully, Amazon will deliver. LOL@@WILDALASKA
Great advice, had mine 6 months and still learning. Keep forgetting to go from bird to human when photographing wife she thinks I have a dud camera. I use Fv mostly but think I need to use the C buttons, 1 for animal,2 for humans and 3 for landscape. Thanks
Good stuff!
Scott love your video's, thank you for taking your time to produce them. I'd like to ask if you have made any changes to your R7 set up from your intial video when it was first released or are they still the same? For photo's and video.
I made a second video a few months after the initial one. Its set up pretty much the same. here's the link. th-cam.com/video/YE6iyp16lb4/w-d-xo.html
I had the R7 before i dropped it in a pond lol. For the price, think its limitations are warranted. I enjoyed the AF on the camera. The video specs are great for $1,500, and Im hoping the r7mk2 will fix the rolling shutter a bit more and a slightly bigger buffer I'd buy it as a b cam alongside the r5mk2 as my main camera. Heck, I'd still pick up a used r7 today for those on a budget for nature and wildlife for many of the features you stated. Even with its flaws. Wonderful shots Scott, and great review.
Thanks for sharing
As an avid hobby photographer that is focused on birding and interview videos, the R7 looks like a great b cam next to my R5. I really need a backup camera anyway, as the R5 is my only camera and my son (5y) recently has started to join me on my birding outings.
I will be good in that role for sure
Great video . . . but still wandering if it is really needed to remove AF from shutter button? I should think that BBF will override that when your are pressing it?
Yes it is. If you have your af on the shutter, it's going to compete with whatever Af you are selecting. And in my setup that set af that the shutter would initiate is the single point. And if im in subject detect or set my focus somewhere and don't want it to move and I hit that shutter...I move my af point.
With this setup a LOT of the time I have already set my focus don't want that plane of focus to move. Like the moose. I got the focal plane set and don't need to move it again and may take several shots and not hit the focus anytime during those shots as I nor the moose have moved. And if I had that set to the shutter and my moose is in the left of the frame and I hit the shutter and my single point is in the center of the screen, now im focused somewhere wayyyy behind the moose.
And conversely, if I had the subject detect depressed and hit the shutter (with af attached) I get a override to the single point.
Hope that makes sense.
Great and helpful video. One question I have is about the point you made regarding using point and then capturing the eye using the AF button. I have been keeping my finger on the button as you mentioned whilst pressing the shutter button. Hence it can jump around. However I have just been out to try and practice what you said and as sound as I remove finger off of the AF button I lose the eye. What have I got incorrectly set? I thought I used you set up video some months ago to customise the buttons. Can you help? cheers Martin
You shouldn't be loosing the eye. Unless you seeing the eye out of focus in the image. Once you get lock and let go your focus doesn't move as its set to that distance. Only you or the bird will move to get it out of focus.
I usually suggest reseting the camera before starting a new setup just in case something old you have set could interfere with the setup. Plus you have a clean slate to work with.
@@WILDALASKA thanks Scott and keep up the great work.
Focal plane….this is the key word AND the one, as a beginner photographer, I till have not a clear understanding of how to ether ‘calculate’ or determine in any respect for any given shot. Is there one thing on the R7 I should be setting or looking for in order to be very confident that my focal plane will get the ‘eye’ tack sharp?
So you can get apps like photopill and such for your phone or just make notes of your photos. Shoot your subject and when you get ti review time on your pc. Note the aperture , mm length and distance to subject and then see if you got the right amount of focal plane death for your subject.
Hello, good explanation
I'm thinking of buying the r7 with a sigma 18-50 and a canon rf 100-400
My idea is to photograph motorsport events (mainly rally) and some air shows, do you think I will have this problem? If so, maybe the canon r8 would be a better choice?
Both are very good options. The sensors readout is better on the R8 for less rolling shutter and the MP on the r8 for your subject matter isn't an issue. So I would lean towards the r8, but the reach on the r7 and ibis in the body make it compelling also. Hard choice
@WILDALASKA i have been hasking on redit and youtube coments opinios and most of them lean toard the r7 because of 15 fps mecanical shuter so i dont have roling shuter, for now im just doing some serching
But now i have been seing that R7 as some AF issue like you explained and i m afraid that i miss my shots
I think you need an apprentice, I volunteer myself. :)
Thank you for imparting all your wisdom and experience to us with less experience, we appreciate all you do!
😄
Have the R7 and love it....yes issues with autofocus at times but when upgrading from the 80D it is such a game changer. Shooting with Sigma 18-35 1.8 ART and 70-200 2.8 Sport.
Just noticed that Canon released firmware update in December so maybe that will help with some of the issues?
👍
I'm reasearching to upgrade from a Canon 80D to an R7 or R8, mainly for wildlife and bird photography. My go to lenses are the Sigma 150-600 mm C and the Canon EF 70-300mm IS USM. I've seen in a few reviews that the animal's eye tracking auto focus does not perform well with the EF mount lenses. Did you had issues with the EF mount that unable you to use them with the R7, or even the R8?
It tracks fine with the EF lenses. Both the r8 and r7 track great with them.
@@WILDALASKA Thank you for the information! Your videos are amazing.
!
Hello my dear friend,
please tell me how on Canon R7, is it possible to make a test frame in video mode? (take a picture) without changing the settings, without taking a video or switching to photo mode?
I mean, when you've set everything up, but you're not taking it off yet.
Thanks to everyone who will help.
I can't find how to do it...
.
just hit the record button on top
would love to see another video on the r7 and 100-400 :)
Coming soon!
At 2:30. What exactly you mean with "exposure up". This has to do with translating to Dutch/English. You mean aperture up (to smaller number)? Or over expose with some stops? Sorry, im a noob.... :)
Anything to bring your exposure up, shutter, aperture, iso. I personally just bump my iso usually.
That's cool! I use a lot of the same focus techniques with my 7D ii. I don't have eye detect, but the single point trick that you were referring to in the beginning is a staple for me on deer, bear, and elk. Thanks for your thoughts on this! I am considering the R7 as my next camera body, but it is in competition with the R6. I do like the crop sensor on the R7 with that being what I am used to with the 32 mega pixles that I would love to have.
Very cool!
Changing the exposure sounds like a brilliant idea. I have been even shooting dark, to keep the highlights. I am definitely trying this tip, thank you. However i do think the readout speed of the sensor is the big difference with the R5. If i had not used the R5 the R7 would seem nearly perfect, much better than the 77D.
👍
Hi Scott, top drawer video as ever, none of the sensationalist crap that clutters YT either. I agree with what you say 100%, its a damned good camera, is it the best out there? No it is not but at £1400 would you expect it to be? My gripe is that Canon sold it to us all as 'same AF as the R3 (for a much lower price)' and while it's very good i don't think its that good. What i would say is that the issue of the sensor read out speed is crucial (as you stress in the video), the R7 is 31m/s but.......the R8 is 14m/s and out in the field it shows. I am lucky enough to have both and the R8 is 'stickier' there are no two ways about it. Having said that i have taken great photos with the R7 and i love it.
It's the same technology for the af that is (R3). It reacts fairly close to the r3. Same with the R8 whip also love. And yes you can tell with that sensor speed.
Thanks for the kind words also :) Happy shooting 🐻
hello Scott, do you use mechanical, EFCS or only electronic shutter?
Always electronic
Great video!! I'm planning to buy the R7 in the near future. One question, between the RF 100-400 and the Ef 100-400 II, which is better?
I can buy the RF100-400 new or the Ef 100-400ii second handed.
Both are great lenses. The RF is very sharp and very light. The EF is a very good lens and great glass and 5.6 aperture. The only drawback is that the AF will not be as good as the RF. BUT it's still very good and usable AF. So me if I had a choice of the 2. most days id pick the EF just due to its construction, aperture and glass
@@WILDALASKA Thank you so much.
I have the EF version and it works great on my R6mii so should work great on the R7@@rubengarlin
@branonpsu Thank you
You really make me miss Alaska! I lived there for 8 years in the ‘90’s and did a lot of photography. Of course, it was on film back then 😂 I haven’t been shooting much for a while and I’m looking at getting the R7 and I’ve been watching your videos on it. The last cameras I bought were the 7D and 5D2, so an upgrade is called for. I’m really looking forward to the autofocus, especially the eye recognition. That is new to me and I struggled with eye sharpness on birds with my 7D, especially with BIF. Is that an EF 500 you’re using? Is there any quality loss on an RF body? My biggest lens is the EF 300 f/4L and I’d like to continue using it, as well as perhaps getting the RF 100-400 that you and many others recommend. Thanks for the great videos and reminders of my time in Alaska!
Yes it's an EF 500f4 MKII and it works without issue. The r7+ RF 100-400 is a great combo. My uncle uses it and loves it. Ive used it also and its cool little rig.
Good video I have a R7 too. Do you recomend to update the firmware? I see a lot of people saying that autofocus and IBS went worse after the updates.
I haven't done but on early update. All the updates have been minor or lens compatibility. Ill check when I get a chance and mention what version im suing for firmware in the next r7 video
R7+ Rf 100-400 video please
Is it enough?
Already did one on the combo 😉. Check through my videos as you might find a lot of of other stuff also. Here's the link to the video. th-cam.com/video/Gqazzuyadyo/w-d-xo.html
@@WILDALASKAI have seen it already, can you make more videos on it please 🥺 because I'm looking forward to buy this combo 😇
@@manmohangour368 The main things to note on the RF 100-400 especially on R10/R7 are:
- know the limitations.... F8 can be "horrendous" for photographic usage, but also "enough" under different, yet similar circumstances especially for video mostly.
- 400mm sounds more than it is, also on 1,6x crop. Im mainly a birder of small birds, but i found 400mm too SHORT. 500-800mm (so 750-1280mm effective) is my sweet spot i use the most.
- OIS/IBIS performance is awesome on R7 and just for that i would love the RF 100-400 lens as a "compact" general use telezoom
- price.... yes, its "good"... but if you are willing to make other compromises, such as + 1000g added weight and less good stabiliser as well some AF quirks (easy to come by with technique), you get for example with a Sigma 150-600C (or Tamron) for the same price (or less, 2nd hand) a very different, "better" lens. 600mm F6.3 are... very good, stopped down to F7.1 or even F8/F9 AWESOME crisp and "professional" looking, 400 F8 on the RF 100-400, "ok" at best.
Nice video. But, for me, the R7 is expensive. Can a R10 be used instead especially for bird photography?
Absolutely. Here are 3 videos I made on the R10:
th-cam.com/video/x8cuHsk53_0/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/TfVJWyg_nVA/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/za22WQqPG7w/w-d-xo.html
Nice love canon too how is it compared to the Z9 new firmware update?
For birds, it's pretty close now. For everything else, the canon is snappier
@@WILDALASKA And the thing is Canon doesn't need a bird option which is a plus.
What camera did you film yourself on for this video?? It looks absolutely amazing
Sony ZV-e1
Can you please link the product for the eye piece? Thanks
JJC Eyecup for Canon EOS R7 amzn.to/3YYXYDy
@@WILDALASKA FYI a little tip if you replace with this eye piece from amazon. I had my replacement come apart in short order. I popped it apart reseated the rubber eye cup. Then cut a piece of black electrical tape and ran around the outside over the joint where the rubber meets the base. No more issues in the last few months. ..I'd suggest the tape on initial install.
Hey Scott. One thing I'm Constantly fighting with my r6mk2 is as an osprey dives I may be locked on but almost every time I lose him on his way to the water. Someone suggested using one of those group focus boxes? If I have trees way off say 100 yards away on the banks of the lake as soon as the osprey gets in line with the trees I lose him. Soooooo frustrating. Seems like the r7 is better in those circumstances? Thanks and no hurry for reply or suggestion. I practice all the time and have only had a couple good diving osprey experiences.
I would say play with the AF cases and see if you can find one that tracks your movement and the birds. Also you may need to be on setting 1 on your lens also for the vert stab will help.
Ive found if I concentrate more on where I 'lose' a bird in flight with that AF case and my concentration, I have more success in hitting that area of flight. Kingfishers diving comes to mind. Once I concentrate more on the last bit of flight before water entry I get more success, than trying to grab its initial drop from the perch.
Makes sense Scott and I really appreciate you taking time to help. Absolutely love all you do. I'm also considering down the road getting a used r7. For reach and the megapixel since I crop alot. Thanks again my friend 😊
Hello Scott, thank you for sharing this! Just a question as I ordered the RF 200-800 and have a Sigma 150-600, when you mount the 500mm F4 are your autofocus settings very different compared to your RF 100-400 by example or have you managed to find a common setting for all your lenses? Thank you, best from France, Ludo
Exactly the same. The AF works exactly the same on the EF lenses as a RF lens. Now the sigma will have issues as its 3rd party. Duade Paton had a video on some settings you could change.
Thank you for your reply ! this confirms what I think I am going to sell my Sigma because I don't see using several autofocus settings depending on this or that lens! I am already applying Duade Paton's settings with a few modifications and I suspect that the settings for my future RF200-800 will be very different! Thanks again, best from France, Ludo@@WILDALASKA
Scott the best practical explanation on how to use this great camera by far I was out last night with the R7 I have had it a month and I am still learning but due to your practical advice I way further advanced on one month. Love your content many thanks Ian.
Great to hear!
very good video.
thx
What fireware do you have as I do not have the horse selection just animals? I have the vers. 1.3.1 and here in Sweden it is the latest fireware.
Its just added to the animal model.
What should you buy as a main Camera? I have a R10 and want to sell them and buy an R8 or R7.
r8 for sure, 300 dollars off in BestBuy.
go rent each and check them out to see what's best for you
I guess I need to try this before I knock it :) I've contemplated getting off of my EAF after I've acquired focus, but my thought is, How do I know that at the micro second I remove my thumb from my back button focus, that it is hitting perfect focus ??? "Most" of the time, with good contrast, my EAF box stays small, and right on the eye. Yet critical focus jumps around somewhat. So, in my mind, taking my thumb off of the EAF button, "might" result in a big long burst of shots, every one sharp as a tack.... OR, a big long burst, every one of them soft :( So instead of 1 sharp, 2 soft, 2 sharp 2 soft, 3 sharp, 1 soft..... It will be either 19 sharp... or 19 soft ?
Love my two R7's btw. I've taken about 130K shots with my original one in the last 14 months. Almost always end up getting some razor sharp ones, in a burst.
Just remember Plane of Focus. See what's in focus when you get a snap to eye. If it's too shallow , increase it. Or if it's right and your subjects head is staying within that plane of focus, then you will get sharp shots.
Staying on that AF while shooting can cause drift.
Pre-ordered it when it came out and 0 regret. Thanks for the autofocus clarifications and technical tips!
👍
My R7 paired with my EF 100-400L v2 refuses to focus with there is a busy background.
The EF 100-400 is one of the few lenses that I didn't have much luck on the RF bodies and it was my favorite lens for a long time on my 5DIII and IV.
@@WILDALASKA Interesting... i had the EF 100-400 Mk2 for some weeks but sold it. Not because i didnt like it, but because someone else paid me more money than i did.
I really thought about replacing the Sigma 150-600C with the EF Mk2, mainly because of the noticeable better image stabiliser and less AF pulsing, but the missing 200mm were pretty harsh to come by once used to 400-600mm usage on the Sigma lens.
My only "issue" with the 100-400 II was... 100-399mm... couldnt have cared less about them, it was exclusively used on 400mm. I guess for a wildlife lens more than 400mm is just advised in many cases, but im also a birder and our local birds are small and jumpy, so i need reach most of the time.
I’m using the 100-400 v2 and getting great results even with the TC v3. The key for me was ES first curtain, 15fps and C raw. I have the problem with a busy background affecting focus so I have a custom setting set for single point focus and that seems to help it.
Need some help here
Does the R7 perform well in -6 degrees?
Is it in any danger if used in -6 degrees temperatures?
I am going on a trip where the temperatures range from 4 degree Celsius to -6 degrees Celsius. I am torn between taking the R7 and leaving it behind. I am dying to take the camera as the views and landscapes are really beautiful, and u don’t want to loose this opportunity. So it will be a great help if I can know about the above. And if there are any precautions I can take to avoid the worst. It’s a brand new camera btw. So please help me here.
Mine has been down to -30 several times. Just have extra batteries and put the camera in a ziplock bag after extended exposure in negative temps when bringing it back into the vehicle or house after your done with it.
Sir, have you tried sony A6700 ?
Not yet.
How does the AF compare to the R3 do you know?
Close. R3 wins due to the BSI stacked sensor, but its close as far as tracking
How do you think the R3 stacks up against the Z8 Z9 with AF?
Wow Scott after watching this and shooting mostly predator birds with my r6mk2 and ef 100 to 400L2 I'm about to sell my r6mk2 and get the r7. Great review thanks brother
It's a good camera. The allure to the R7 is the larger MP. The R6mkII sensor is much faster, but raptors won't really kill you with rolling shutter.
Hi wayne from Sydney Australia,am looking for r6mkll what are you asking for it.
@waynedettman6472 oh I was being sarcastic my friend. I love my r6mk2. I may pick up a used r7 sometime. If I ever decide to get rid of the mark 2 I will reach out. Sorry if I was misleading.
I am serious going for the Canon R7 because I a plane spotter. In your video are you near Seattle Airport, there is lots of airplane noise in the background of the video.
It's Anchorage, Ted Stevens airport. And you can be anywhere in the city and hear airplanes. 3 civilian airports and 1 military. Anchorage is one big airport lol.
Merci Scott pour cette vidéo particulièrement intéressante et pédagogique. 👏
👍🐻
The RF100-400 an awesome lens on the R7. Good you’re sharing the tips on cameras. Contrast and use of single focus AF and BBF. I’m mainly into sports and use Servo and even electronic indoors works great for me, for critical events I use 1st curtain (I think gives more bit depth along with the anti flickr feature). RF600/11 is cool too when I walk around and shoot the deer at the local woods
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Hi, I have a question, does anyone try this autofocus on Hummingbirds??
So hummingbirds...This approach works great as you are probably going to be set up on a feeder or a perch near the feeder. In this case you would get a point close to where they are going to come in to the feeder and have your depth of field set to capture the whole bird at that spot. So once it pops into the area your AF will be primed and lock on well. Pop the lock, get off the button and Hamer the shutter. Once it starts to back away hit the auto focus again and repeat
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Does anyone have a TLDW summary?
Don't stay on the subject detect too long if subject is in plane of focus to avoid the dreaded "drift" and its a very good camera especially for the price for wildlife.
😱 Tell me about Wild Alaska, Wild Alaska ! Is this not the most NOISY place on Earth !? I mean : The whole Earth !?
Thank you for the content 👍, but...😱😱😱
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Thanks for the video and your view on it's system.
Only thing is that the pics you show are in focus but not tack sharp.
They are tack sharp. TH-cam compression isn't going to show that.
A bunch of us were having auto focus jumping issues with the 100-500 A guy finally got an answer from canon on this. Basically the r7 should not have as much FPs as it does for the processor it has here is his video.. th-cam.com/video/hsmY4f1J0t8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=kKy0YqyC00BlXqgb
Yes I referenced it in the video. The jump is 2 things, using the af on too much and the sensors speed communicating with the lens motors. the combination at 30 fps will cause this. Happens on r5 also except less frequent as the sensor speed is twice as fast and your fps is lower. Use the subject detect ONLY when needed if your subject stays within the depth of field. By using the subject detect too long once you have lock and within the depth of field you give the ai more time to decide to move the focal point away from where you want it.
Nothing wrong with the Autofocus. Only if your settings are wrong.
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For $1500 you van buy a great Sony A9 with best af, noise and buffer. Waste of money apsc nowadays.😮
Tested and the r7 af beats the a9ii af
Maybe- but then you still have a Sony POS
Why do Sony owners feel the constant need to feel validated, that they bought the 'right' brand ? Why are they so insecure ?
Canon users never jump on the comments of a Sony gear video, and proclaim Canon is best, so why do Sony fanbois do that ?