I'm a dumb dumb that knows very little but finds HAM very fascinating. It really causes that much, issue/interference/noise wise for you shortwave operators? Are there things that us car nuts can do to things like small engines or equipment to help remedy it, without redesigning entire systems? Any quick tips/tricks would be appreciated, I'd like to do my part to reduce what I can. One day I'll get into it. It seems like a blast, and I have trouble sleeping, might give me something to do when I can't sleep 😂
@goosenotmaverick1156 I think it does very little to cause interference with radio signals, because by that same logic the sparkplugs on a car would cause problems with radio signals, and don't get me wrong they likely do, but technology has progressed so far that it really isn't an issue. The main thing he is doing by putting the diode across the electro magnet on the relay is to eliminate the back EMF, which is generated when the magnetic field collapses , this in turn generates a voltage in the opposite direction. Now this voltage is usually a high voltage, and in the case of microcontrollers or other small electronics, they are sensitive to high voltages, so the diode helps eliminate the back emf that would otherwise destroy your microcontroller. In my opinion the noise it creates isn't a concern, is the high voltage that is part of the so called "noise" that is a problem to other voltage sensitive electronics.
@@JuniorJunisonCars with leaky ignition systems and the diesel garbage trucks cause local Channel 5 & 13 to go out. Most people don't realize it because of cable/streaming and the fact that Channel 5 isn't picked up well since the digital transition. Just because its unlilely doesn't mean it doesn't happen regularly.
@@goosenotmaverick1156 The biggest thing you can do is make sure your spark ignition systems have resistors on the spark lead. This can either be a resistored plug, a resistive spark plug wire, or resistance in the coil. Most systems have this already. Also if you have points ignition make sure your condenser is good.
Jimbo, you overthought this, when you tried the SS relay and cap, you were on the right path to K.I.S.S., Rather than grab the time-delay relay, you could have simply controlled a regular 40A relay with a switching transistor (say a 2n2222) with that 470 mfd cap across the base & ground, (collector to relay coil, emitter to ground, so the output would be inverted, so coil reference is positive) then tuned the timeout with a parallel resistor if it's too long. I've done automotive electronics for years and have built many simple "bounce-prevention" circuits on a budget of "whatever is in the tool box" I know you like cheap and reliable, and this simple circuit is just that.
Was thinking the same thing. Would be nice if RadioShack was still a thing but part of the reason I keep broken things around. Device might be dead but components are still good to harvest.
For a circuit such as this, couldn't you go even simpler and just put a capacitor between the switched hot and ground lines to the relay? Sure, it would add a slight delay to the relay triggering on, and it would remain on slightly longer, but it would be even KISSier... Edit: Right, he addressed that.
@@ghosttheoremproductions5469 I still have a local radioshack. They had 3 franchise stores in my area and when things went south, they closed all but one. I was just in there a couple weeks ago. they're rare but some are still hanging on. It's been sad to see them struggle. When I still had time for projects like that I used to frequent the one that's now closed, it was close by and I could go on my lunch and buy more resistors or whatever I needed. Also the Vaughn family that owns the store, are very nice folks.
You’re going to need those brakes to work well when you are going fast enough to travel back to the future after you get that coal roller supercharged!!! Thanks for the detailed explanation, I like learning in the nitty-gritty!
The problem solving is half the fun, for me! Some of the solutions are a bit above my knowledge, but it's always fascinating. The end result is just sweet, sweet glorious victory over said problem!
A reservoir would help (but not necessarily solve) the chatter but not by volume of gas. Part of the cause of the chatter is from temperature change. The remaining gas is cooled on pump-down due to the decrease in pressure. It immediately begins to re-warm, increasing the pressure slightly, re-triggering the switch. This will always happen in a decreasing oscillation until equilibrium. A reservoir adds gas volume which also means a larger thermal buffer as well as thermal exchange area. Decreasing the frequency of the oscillation. A bunch of variables go into how much of a "fix" this would be. Too hard to say with the small system you're working on. But it is cheap and simple to try. - Oh, and this is why on older cars you'd often see a vacuum reservoir mounted down in the fender. So that engine bay temps would have less of an effect on the remaining gas volume.
The _cause_ of the chatter is that the switch has no hysteresis, the contacts gradually get pulled apart as the vacuum increases rather than snapping open, and then snapping closed when the vacuum falls by some preset amount. A reservoir will not change this behaviour, a better vacuum switch would be the correct solution.
Dude the animation was the best. I am watching the normally closed switch working but the relay was just hanging out, I was like "where there's your problem lady!" thanks for the explanation
you one smart cookie, I totally understand what you did and why you did it but I wouldn't have ever come up with it on my own, I think you just helped me with a dilemma I've had for some time, thanks
I was getting all sorts of ideas while watching this video for building a mechanical vacuum pump similar to and old chevy fuel pump working off of some sort of cam, but then I realized the little diesel engine is already strapped and the parasitic load of another device would lower your 0-50 times to a painful level …. Ah well, Thanx for the lesson in electronics ❤
Put the reserve tank next to the vacuum pump and have several feet of vacuum tube before the the pressure switch. This way the friction of air movement in the tube results in the pressure at the switch to briefly continuing to fall after the pump has stopped as the system pressure balances.
a restriction on a shorter hose will accomplish the same thing. Carb synchronization gauges had knobs that crushed the hose to take the bounce out of the guages
I wish I found your channel a year from now and could binge watch it. Each episode is about half the length of a TV show episode, so it takes a lot of patience to wait for the next episode and for it all to come together. I'm still waiting on the supercharger.
I'm not much of an electronics guy, but I follow along the best I can, in the hope it may prove use full somewhere down the road. Simple and easy to understand.
I get all excited when I get up on Sunday mornings because I know there's going to be a new RC video posted. By the way, thank you for your explanation on the capacitor solution and why it would be a bad idea. You explained it perfectly.
I actually found this very interesting because I have toyed with the idea of electric vehicle conversion and electric motors share one thing in common with your diesel, they also don't produce vacuum.
A nice use of electronics to debounce the vacuum switch. A reservoir canister inline near the pump and moving the vacuum switch near the booster would have done the same. Pressure drop with flow in a vacuum system might surprise you if you run the numbers. You end up near sonic easily. It's your show, which I enjoy greatly. Thanks.
Appreciate your videos. Your wiring diagrams explain how it works very well. This little car is going to be like factory when you are completed. I think this is what they should be developing instead of the EV only. Thanks for the videos, Jimbo.
I think you could do it with a mechanical solution by having an accumulator right before the vacuum pump and an orifice. There would be an excess of vacuum in the accumulator because of the restriction and it would pull the vacuum in the booster below the vacuum needed to disengage the switch, but electronics is ofc fine too
GM used some for their headlamps too (I think it was headlamps? They used them for sure though somewhere) around the GMT800 era I think. My memory is specifically recalling the trailblazer/envoy(and the often forgotten Buick Rainier) platform, but I could be wrong. I very specifically remember it being GM though so they should be fairly available at a reasonable cost these days I figure? I love that I'm not the only one that remembers little things like this. First one I ever sold, someone about shat at the price (they were real high still about 10 ish years ago) 😂
@@goosenotmaverick1156 Oh yeah good call I forgot about the gmt360/370 Trailblazer low beam and radiator fan using solid state relays 15-20amp I believe. It's the one with the weird pin layout it had 3 pins on one side then a single pin on the other side instead of the normal 2 pins on each side. If I recall correctly.
Love to see the ins and outs of this stuff, personal I don't have a clue as to what electric stuff does but it doesn't mean I don't try to follow what's going on .odd really because I made circuit boards and tested stuff for over 13 years (put board in jig press button light goes green or red put board in good box or re work box )
I used the exact relay for my heated steering wheel retrofit on my 2003 Dodge Ram. I installed a 2018 Laramie wheel that had built In heat, however when I began reverse engineering the controls I noticed the heated wheel worked off of a built In thermistor that sent a temp to the computer to determine if it should send power to the element. Long story short I used this relay In your video to jog power to the element to maintain a constant temperature.
I had a similar problem with making a bed light for my 2016 Tacoma. I used a supercapacitor and charged it with a car brake light bulb to get over the surge issue. The supercap is about the size as the one you in your video, it held the relay on for about 38 seconds, long enough for me to go into the house with plenty of light 🙂 No semiconductors needed.
Just some points about electrical noise. The large caps across the solid state relay input will filter the low frequency noise spikes. Adding a 0.1 uf cap in parallel will filter the high freq noise spikes. Putting a reverse diode across the input: +ve (anode) to ground, -ve (cathode) to positive side will prevent negative voltage spikes. Lastly, the car battery acts as a monster capacitor. Run a fused wire directly to the battery - consider the battery as a clean power source.
Sunday morning, get a cup of coffee and watch the new episode of Robot Cantina. I do like the episodes where you 'deep dive" into some of the problems you overcome.
I really appreciate all the little experiments you did, I never thought about the solid state relay. I have some sitting around and that might work for similar circuits.
It looks like you figured out a system that works well. If it hadn't I was going to suggest a high/low relay similar to what a well pump uses at the holding tank.
Jimbo, I love the channel and content; thoughtful, interesting and entertaining. I meant to make a comment last week but didn't. The timer works great, I really like that solution. After last week's episode my mind went to a two pressure switch option to deal with the low hysteresis switch chatter problem. I think that this works. Taking Switch 1 as activating at 15" Hg and the Switch 2 at 25" Hg (and both having low hysteresis values individually). Wire the supply to Switch 1, then from Switch 1 connect Switch 2 in series, and then on to the coil in the relay. Opening either pressure switch will cause the supply to the vacuum pump to stop. Then make a connection from the relay output powering the vacuum pump to the supply side of Switch 2 passing through a diode. With this configuration the supply side of Switch 2 is maintained with voltage while the vacuum pump is powered, effectively latching the action of first switch until Switch 2 turns off the vacuum pump. The vacuum pump will start again when the vacuum is less than 15" (both pressure switches closed), but will continue to run until 25" before stopping. This provides a wide gap between switch-on and switch-off for the pump, and the pump will only ever run for as long as it needs to (not that this is important or even relevant, but I'm a bit OCD on these things sometimes). The diode stops Switch 1 from supplying the pump motor directly when it closes. I'd be curious to know if you like this approach or not, I'm guessing that you had already thought of it and set it aside in favour of the timer option. Cheers
Just wanted to say the addition of a vacuum reservoir would help more than you think. You'll be pulling a vacuum on a rigid object. The brake booster diaphragm isn't sturdy enough to act as a consistent reservoir with the setup you are using, especially considering the booster wasn't receiving a vacuum for a long time, it is likely stretching a bit. Also, the diaphram will creep a bit every time you use the brakes and will never "settle" under driving conditions. So I would recommend you use a reservoir still
His arrogance bites him again. If he just tried it he'd see. Some of us speak from experience and don't rely on what we think will happen based on a diagram.
I would say that Jimbo thinking the unassisted brakes were acceptable was the arrogance. I'm happy he's using the booster at all. As an automotive technician, I know that the booster isn't a reservoir. And I don't think the pump is a consistent enough source, and he shouldn't rely on excess vacuum to compensate. So, it needs a reservoir to be safe and consistent anyway. But the consistent part would likely have solved the chattering issue.
From the way things are going the man wants this thing DOT approved for mass sale. Honestly given all the jank-jobs to not even or at best barely road legal; i cannot wait to see how far he goes to that aim.
As always I enjoyed your video. Talking about adding capacitors brought back memories of when I raced slotcars and guy's would add a bunch of capacitors to their controllers to get any advantage they could. I can't wait to see the next video.
The quick and dirty (but effective) fix for the chattering switch without any wiring changes is to plumb your pressure switch into a small reservoir with a flow restriction. The system vacuum will overshoot the reservoir on drawdown, but it does so smoothly and will pass the switch threshold cleanly. You will also overshoot the other way, so a little tuning so there's always adequate vacuum is needed, but you've added $1 worth of parts and gotten the desired results. You're basically adding mechanical hysteresis.
Man I needed you when I was growing up as a teacher , cuz you are damn sure smarter or atleast know how to break down and explain stuff alot better 😅.. peace and love jimbo keep it radical stay safe and build on broski .. l8z and have fun brotha
This is "the fly" episode for me. I love your channel and watch for power, efficiency, and how well you narrate. This one is probably well liked by the electronic gurus that can augue over what you "should have done" .
@@flyonbyya any regular bipolar transistor and a cap to build a solid state relais, plus some diodes for protection. Values and amount depending on the desired effort. Discrete electronics are super cheap if one knows what he's doing.
In the electronics world it might be a large capacitor but in the car audio world it is tiny lol, we use thousands of farad caps by maxwell as a load spike buffer. Love your videos. And yes I know 6 3k farad caps in series is 500f and has I huge inrush current and output current.
You're saving me some work for when I convert my van to electric later on. I think I actually have a couple of those timer cirtuics lying around for a battery charging circuit.
You could always use a mechanical relay to drive the input of the capacitor for the solid state relay to eliminate the inrush current issues. To keep the programmable relay but simplify the circuit you could de-solder the low power relay from the programmable board, then tap off of the board for the relay trigger signal and run that to the high power snubbed relay. Or the time delay board may even have a snubber diode on the coil driver, so you can go back to the cheaper automotive relays.
Wanting to do a kubota diesel swap in a toyota 4runner. You have no idea how much your videos have helped me. The vacuum booster was something I had been wondering about. This will be perfect! Thank you for your videos Jimbo!
Another great video. I like the animated wirig diagrams, I'll have to remembered this video when someone is interested in how relays work. Looking forward to the supercharger install and experiments.
Great explanations! Love learning 👍 I think the vacuum tank could have worked, but the problem it solves could be better solved by putting the pump very near the reservoir. The chatter appears to be from rebounding air, or pressure normalizing.
25in of vacuum seems like a bit much, might be hard on the pump and booster over time. Love these projects, inspires me to get out there and tinker around when I can, Thank you!
I designed a 3D printed centrifugal electric supercharger that I plan to put it in a 1,6 L Elantra this summer in a really janky way. I tested the concept on my Volvo V50 diesel and it actually works.
I suppose that education is part of the value here, but sometimes it seems that you (Jimbo) need to spend an inordinate amount of time explaining why comment suggestions won't work. Popular comments probably deserve a response, but please know that not all of us are out here claiming that you're doing it wrong ;). You explained the brake chattering problem perfectly clearly in the last video, yet had to spend much of this one explaining it again, so thank you for your patience.
Wow today's the first time I viewed the main page of your channel. I've always watched via suggested videos etc. So I never saw your Spit till now. I really liked my Spitfire. What a fun and easy to work on car. It's one of the few wouldn't mind owning again.
The modified KISS solution is usually the best, that being the Keep It Stupid Simple approach in terms of reliability. The only other thing that came to mind was a pressure switch that has a fair amount of wiggle room for the on/off cutout, though the cheapie diaphragm-based ones like to blow out at the worst time (aka, when you Need it!) Your electronic timer is perfect though, and should remain Much more reliable. Kudos my man!
A small transistor plus capacitor triggering the relay input would work pretty well. The capacitor would be able to be really small, and could be tuned with a potentiometer to adjust how long it stays on for. Basically an "RC" circuit. If you're going as far as using a programmable time delay relay, might as well just bite the bullet and swap it out for an Arduino and actual pressure sensor. You can program it to work at any pressure you want, use latching to avoid chattering (turn on at 8psi, turn off at 10psi), have inputs for the brake lights to proactively add more vacuum, turn on a warning LED if the pressure is too low, etc. Much simpler, cheaper, and more reliable than a hodgepodge of electrical components. The pressure sensor would likely be an old MAP sensor from your spare parts drawer.
Thanks very much Jimbo for your videos! I do learn so much and especially this and the last episode will help me put an electrical vacuum pump on my oldtimer 🙂
Nice exposition of the problem and solution Jimbo. Keeps me coming back for more! I almost thought you had a 555 timer in your future, but there's always something reassuring about off the shelf components.
Interesting, you talked about snubber relays. I can't connect to grid power so I'm on wind and solar. I'm wanting to set up a control system in my cabin to opporate my generator that sits 100 feet away. I plan to use a raspberry pi or something that activates some relays. Looks like the snubber may be worthwhile. This whole off grid thing is getting out of hand with all the odds and ends. My lights run off of 2 relays that I set up as a 3 way switch. I can turn the lights on at the door or on from my bed😂 great video!
I'm leaving a comment as an offering to the TH-cam algorithm. This channel deserves more attention!
ALL HAIL THE ALGORITHM!!~!
Matt would approve
Amen brother!!!
All hail
Al G Rithm and Robot Cantina!
I hate algorithms...but this is a cool channel and if comments help I'm in.
*As a ham radio operator... Thank you for being conscience of RF noise pollution.*
I'm a dumb dumb that knows very little but finds HAM very fascinating. It really causes that much, issue/interference/noise wise for you shortwave operators?
Are there things that us car nuts can do to things like small engines or equipment to help remedy it, without redesigning entire systems? Any quick tips/tricks would be appreciated, I'd like to do my part to reduce what I can.
One day I'll get into it. It seems like a blast, and I have trouble sleeping, might give me something to do when I can't sleep 😂
@goosenotmaverick1156 I think it does very little to cause interference with radio signals, because by that same logic the sparkplugs on a car would cause problems with radio signals, and don't get me wrong they likely do, but technology has progressed so far that it really isn't an issue. The main thing he is doing by putting the diode across the electro magnet on the relay is to eliminate the back EMF, which is generated when the magnetic field collapses , this in turn generates a voltage in the opposite direction. Now this voltage is usually a high voltage, and in the case of microcontrollers or other small electronics, they are sensitive to high voltages, so the diode helps eliminate the back emf that would otherwise destroy your microcontroller. In my opinion the noise it creates isn't a concern, is the high voltage that is part of the so called "noise" that is a problem to other voltage sensitive electronics.
@@JuniorJunisonCars with leaky ignition systems and the diesel garbage trucks cause local Channel 5 & 13 to go out. Most people don't realize it because of cable/streaming and the fact that Channel 5 isn't picked up well since the digital transition.
Just because its unlilely doesn't mean it doesn't happen regularly.
Oof. The very worst "as a" that I have ever read.
@@goosenotmaverick1156 The biggest thing you can do is make sure your spark ignition systems have resistors on the spark lead. This can either be a resistored plug, a resistive spark plug wire, or resistance in the coil. Most systems have this already. Also if you have points ignition make sure your condenser is good.
Men of TH-cam, gather around.
Jimbo has brought forth our Sunday dose of sanity.
Grab your coffee, it'll be needed.
Very interesting, Jimbo. I learn a little something from every video. Thank you for that, sir.
Jimbo, you overthought this, when you tried the SS relay and cap, you were on the right path to K.I.S.S., Rather than grab the time-delay relay, you could have simply controlled a regular 40A relay with a switching transistor (say a 2n2222) with that 470 mfd cap across the base & ground, (collector to relay coil, emitter to ground, so the output would be inverted, so coil reference is positive) then tuned the timeout with a parallel resistor if it's too long. I've done automotive electronics for years and have built many simple "bounce-prevention" circuits on a budget of "whatever is in the tool box" I know you like cheap and reliable, and this simple circuit is just that.
Was thinking the same thing. Would be nice if RadioShack was still a thing but part of the reason I keep broken things around. Device might be dead but components are still good to harvest.
For a circuit such as this, couldn't you go even simpler and just put a capacitor between the switched hot and ground lines to the relay? Sure, it would add a slight delay to the relay triggering on, and it would remain on slightly longer, but it would be even KISSier...
Edit: Right, he addressed that.
Great idea, you beat me to the solution.. you are probably a time zone ahead of me. :)
@@ghosttheoremproductions5469
I still have a local radioshack. They had 3 franchise stores in my area and when things went south, they closed all but one. I was just in there a couple weeks ago. they're rare but some are still hanging on.
It's been sad to see them struggle. When I still had time for projects like that I used to frequent the one that's now closed, it was close by and I could go on my lunch and buy more resistors or whatever I needed. Also the Vaughn family that owns the store, are very nice folks.
I thought the issue with that was emf which is why he went to an upgraded relay
What I love about this channel is Jimbo doesn't just show how it's done, he also shows how it's NOT done and explains why for both
@@johnnybagofdoughnuts4193💯
@@seymoarsalvage🎵”I ain’t afraid o’ no gays!” 🎶
I love a show that teaches us how to do the wrong thing the right way.
Oh thanks, that triggered MY alexa to announce shes not spying on me...
Of course, it's programmed to say that...
Imagine having that in your house. Do you also use Tiktok?
Educational and entertaining, thank you.
Time for a coffee and robot cantina!
Yep!
I'm late but I'm here with my coffee! 😂
Man I'm late as hell today, I'm usually here sometime during the second hour of it being up 😂
You’re going to need those brakes to work well when you are going fast enough to travel back to the future after you get that coal roller supercharged!!! Thanks for the detailed explanation, I like learning in the nitty-gritty!
Solution, purchase an Alternator with vacuum pump mounted on rear of unit fitted to many deisel cars.
I like the variety of problems that you need to solve with these projects, and I appreciate that you choose to show them to us as you go along.
The problem solving is half the fun, for me! Some of the solutions are a bit above my knowledge, but it's always fascinating. The end result is just sweet, sweet glorious victory over said problem!
I find myself fantasizing about building a diesel powered micro car everyday now. Thank you Jimbo! I love this channel.
A reservoir would help (but not necessarily solve) the chatter but not by volume of gas. Part of the cause of the chatter is from temperature change. The remaining gas is cooled on pump-down due to the decrease in pressure. It immediately begins to re-warm, increasing the pressure slightly, re-triggering the switch. This will always happen in a decreasing oscillation until equilibrium. A reservoir adds gas volume which also means a larger thermal buffer as well as thermal exchange area. Decreasing the frequency of the oscillation. A bunch of variables go into how much of a "fix" this would be. Too hard to say with the small system you're working on. But it is cheap and simple to try. - Oh, and this is why on older cars you'd often see a vacuum reservoir mounted down in the fender. So that engine bay temps would have less of an effect on the remaining gas volume.
The _cause_ of the chatter is that the switch has no hysteresis, the contacts gradually get pulled apart as the vacuum increases rather than snapping open, and then snapping closed when the vacuum falls by some preset amount. A reservoir will not change this behaviour, a better vacuum switch would be the correct solution.
Dude the animation was the best. I am watching the normally closed switch working but the relay was just hanging out, I was like "where there's your problem lady!" thanks for the explanation
MOAR BOOST!
Great thinking outside the box to make a solution for the lack of vacuum!
you one smart cookie, I totally understand what you did and why you did it but I wouldn't have ever come up with it on my own, I think you just helped me with a dilemma I've had for some time, thanks
I was getting all sorts of ideas while watching this video for building a mechanical vacuum pump similar to and old chevy fuel pump working off of some sort of cam, but then I realized the little diesel engine is already strapped and the parasitic load of another device would lower your 0-50 times to a painful level …. Ah well, Thanx for the lesson in electronics ❤
Put the reserve tank next to the vacuum pump and have several feet of vacuum tube before the the pressure switch. This way the friction of air movement in the tube results in the pressure at the switch to briefly continuing to fall after the pump has stopped as the system pressure balances.
a restriction on a shorter hose will accomplish the same thing. Carb synchronization gauges had knobs that crushed the hose to take the bounce out of the guages
I love how you show people how to do it. The policy of K.I.S.S. is working well in your world.
Well done. Reading those 12V diagrams is second nature to me - so I am glad to see that you thought to add a little clarification around them.
I wish I found your channel a year from now and could binge watch it. Each episode is about half the length of a TV show episode, so it takes a lot of patience to wait for the next episode and for it all to come together. I'm still waiting on the supercharger.
I come for funny engine swaps, but I stay to learn electronics knowledge for circuits.
Thanks for all the lessons Jimbo, they really mean a lot.
Hey. Thanks for explaining why a capacitor was a bad idea on the analog relay.
I'm not much of an electronics guy, but I follow along the best I can, in the hope it may prove use full somewhere down the road. Simple and easy to understand.
I get all excited when I get up on Sunday mornings because I know there's going to be a new RC video posted.
By the way, thank you for your explanation on the capacitor solution and why it would be a bad idea. You explained it perfectly.
Enjoy!
I suspect your making all these driving improvements to
Possible go on power tour this summer .. keeping my fingers crossed
That would be a cool reliability test
@@Heapsofjeff the coolest!
FUN! What a fantastic tutorial on simple electrical circuits. You are a terrific teacher. Thanks.
I actually found this very interesting because I have toyed with the idea of electric vehicle conversion and electric motors share one thing in common with your diesel, they also don't produce vacuum.
A nice use of electronics to debounce the vacuum switch. A reservoir canister inline near the pump and moving the vacuum switch near the booster would have done the same. Pressure drop with flow in a vacuum system might surprise you if you run the numbers. You end up near sonic easily. It's your show, which I enjoy greatly. Thanks.
Appreciate your videos. Your wiring diagrams explain how it works very well. This little car is going to be like factory when you are completed. I think this is what they should be developing instead of the EV only. Thanks for the videos, Jimbo.
I think you could do it with a mechanical solution by having an accumulator right before the vacuum pump and an orifice. There would be an excess of vacuum in the accumulator because of the restriction and it would pull the vacuum in the booster below the vacuum needed to disengage the switch, but electronics is ofc fine too
A big cheap Solid state relay comes in the 2004 Ford Expedition as the rear air bag pump relay. I believe it's a 40 or 60 amp relay.
GM used some for their headlamps too (I think it was headlamps? They used them for sure though somewhere) around the GMT800 era I think. My memory is specifically recalling the trailblazer/envoy(and the often forgotten Buick Rainier) platform, but I could be wrong. I very specifically remember it being GM though so they should be fairly available at a reasonable cost these days I figure?
I love that I'm not the only one that remembers little things like this. First one I ever sold, someone about shat at the price (they were real high still about 10 ish years ago) 😂
@@goosenotmaverick1156 Oh yeah good call I forgot about the gmt360/370 Trailblazer low beam and radiator fan using solid state relays 15-20amp I believe. It's the one with the weird pin layout it had 3 pins on one side then a single pin on the other side instead of the normal 2 pins on each side. If I recall correctly.
The amount of effort you're putting into this project makes me think you're going to end up daily driving this car once you're far enough along!
I agree with using the brake light as backup switch for redundancy. That's nice 👍.
Love to see the ins and outs of this stuff, personal I don't have a clue as to what electric stuff does but it doesn't mean I don't try to follow what's going on .odd really because I made circuit boards and tested stuff for over 13 years (put board in jig press button light goes green or red put board in good box or re work box )
I used the exact relay for my heated steering wheel retrofit on my 2003 Dodge Ram. I installed a 2018 Laramie wheel that had built In heat, however when I began reverse engineering the controls I noticed the heated wheel worked off of a built In thermistor that sent a temp to the computer to determine if it should send power to the element. Long story short I used this relay In your video to jog power to the element to maintain a constant temperature.
This channel honestly deserves more attention I agree 💯 percent
I had a similar problem with making a bed light for my 2016 Tacoma. I used a supercapacitor and charged it with a car brake light bulb to get over the surge issue. The supercap is about the size as the one you in your video, it held the relay on for about 38 seconds, long enough for me to go into the house with plenty of light 🙂 No semiconductors needed.
I just love your videos. They are made so easy to understand, just beatiful
It’s awesome that you continue to demonstrate building a one off vehicle.
Great explanation of all the ideas, what works and what doesn't.
Just some points about electrical noise. The large caps across the solid state relay input will filter the low frequency noise spikes. Adding a 0.1 uf cap in parallel will filter the high freq noise spikes. Putting a reverse diode across the input: +ve (anode) to ground, -ve (cathode) to positive side will prevent negative voltage spikes. Lastly, the car battery acts as a monster capacitor. Run a fused wire directly to the battery - consider the battery as a clean power source.
Sunday morning, get a cup of coffee and watch the new episode of Robot Cantina. I do like the episodes where you 'deep dive" into some of the problems you overcome.
I really appreciate all the little experiments you did, I never thought about the solid state relay. I have some sitting around and that might work for similar circuits.
It looks like you figured out a system that works well. If it hadn't I was going to suggest a high/low relay similar to what a well pump uses at the holding tank.
Jimbo, your work load seems to be enormous!! Well done!!
Man I’m thankful that you follow your schedule, these videos mark the end of the weekend for me, it’s become a routine
Jimbo, I love the channel and content; thoughtful, interesting and entertaining. I meant to make a comment last week but didn't. The timer works great, I really like that solution. After last week's episode my mind went to a two pressure switch option to deal with the low hysteresis switch chatter problem. I think that this works. Taking Switch 1 as activating at 15" Hg and the Switch 2 at 25" Hg (and both having low hysteresis values individually).
Wire the supply to Switch 1, then from Switch 1 connect Switch 2 in series, and then on to the coil in the relay. Opening either pressure switch will cause the supply to the vacuum pump to stop. Then make a connection from the relay output powering the vacuum pump to the supply side of Switch 2 passing through a diode. With this configuration the supply side of Switch 2 is maintained with voltage while the vacuum pump is powered, effectively latching the action of first switch until Switch 2 turns off the vacuum pump. The vacuum pump will start again when the vacuum is less than 15" (both pressure switches closed), but will continue to run until 25" before stopping. This provides a wide gap between switch-on and switch-off for the pump, and the pump will only ever run for as long as it needs to (not that this is important or even relevant, but I'm a bit OCD on these things sometimes). The diode stops Switch 1 from supplying the pump motor directly when it closes.
I'd be curious to know if you like this approach or not, I'm guessing that you had already thought of it and set it aside in favour of the timer option. Cheers
I really love this channel, I also love the increasing complexity and specificity, thanks Jimbo.
Just wanted to say the addition of a vacuum reservoir would help more than you think. You'll be pulling a vacuum on a rigid object. The brake booster diaphragm isn't sturdy enough to act as a consistent reservoir with the setup you are using, especially considering the booster wasn't receiving a vacuum for a long time, it is likely stretching a bit. Also, the diaphram will creep a bit every time you use the brakes and will never "settle" under driving conditions. So I would recommend you use a reservoir still
His arrogance bites him again. If he just tried it he'd see. Some of us speak from experience and don't rely on what we think will happen based on a diagram.
I would say that Jimbo thinking the unassisted brakes were acceptable was the arrogance. I'm happy he's using the booster at all. As an automotive technician, I know that the booster isn't a reservoir. And I don't think the pump is a consistent enough source, and he shouldn't rely on excess vacuum to compensate. So, it needs a reservoir to be safe and consistent anyway. But the consistent part would likely have solved the chattering issue.
Easily in my top three favorite TH-cam channels. Thanks for all your hard work, Jimbo.
From the way things are going the man wants this thing DOT approved for mass sale. Honestly given all the jank-jobs to not even or at best barely road legal; i cannot wait to see how far he goes to that aim.
I was just driving through rural Kansas the week for work and I was keeping an eye out for a diesel powered Insight!
As always I enjoyed your video. Talking about adding capacitors brought back memories of when I raced slotcars and guy's would add a bunch of capacitors to their controllers to get any advantage they could. I can't wait to see the next video.
Your my Sunday TH-cam appointment, the only one I really enjoy !
The quick and dirty (but effective) fix for the chattering switch without any wiring changes is to plumb your pressure switch into a small reservoir with a flow restriction. The system vacuum will overshoot the reservoir on drawdown, but it does so smoothly and will pass the switch threshold cleanly. You will also overshoot the other way, so a little tuning so there's always adequate vacuum is needed, but you've added $1 worth of parts and gotten the desired results.
You're basically adding mechanical hysteresis.
Man I needed you when I was growing up as a teacher , cuz you are damn sure smarter or atleast know how to break down and explain stuff alot better 😅.. peace and love jimbo keep it radical stay safe and build on broski .. l8z and have fun brotha
Great progress can’t wait to see that dash installed! Thanks Jimbo keep em coming.
This is "the fly" episode for me. I love your channel and watch for power, efficiency, and how well you narrate.
This one is probably well liked by the electronic gurus that can augue over what you "should have done" .
LOL, there is always a dozen or so ways to solve the problem with electronics... I'm sure they will tell me every one.
Coffee, Cantina. Sunday is good ❤
Much love Jimbo, thanks for making my sunday morning routine my favorite one!
Fascinating
Just a few years ago… none of these electronics would be cheap and available.
You could reduce the box he uses to a handful of standard components that only cost pennies even decades ago
List out the components complete with part numbers you’d propose
@@flyonbyya any regular bipolar transistor and a cap to build a solid state relais, plus some diodes for protection. Values and amount depending on the desired effort. Discrete electronics are super cheap if one knows what he's doing.
@@flyonbyya could also do ne555 circuit.
In the electronics world it might be a large capacitor but in the car audio world it is tiny lol, we use thousands of farad caps by maxwell as a load spike buffer. Love your videos. And yes I know 6 3k farad caps in series is 500f and has I huge inrush current and output current.
Absolutely marvelous! I do like the South Park grade of animation in schematics - it's quite enough to understand =)
You're saving me some work for when I convert my van to electric later on. I think I actually have a couple of those timer cirtuics lying around for a battery charging circuit.
Rockauto is usually much cheaper than the jungle for automotive stuff. Love your videos.
Great video and schematics. Always enjoy the time spent on explaining your systems. 👍👍
You could always use a mechanical relay to drive the input of the capacitor for the solid state relay to eliminate the inrush current issues.
To keep the programmable relay but simplify the circuit you could de-solder the low power relay from the programmable board, then tap off of the board for the relay trigger signal and run that to the high power snubbed relay. Or the time delay board may even have a snubber diode on the coil driver, so you can go back to the cheaper automotive relays.
Wanting to do a kubota diesel swap in a toyota 4runner. You have no idea how much your videos have helped me. The vacuum booster was something I had been wondering about. This will be perfect! Thank you for your videos Jimbo!
A vacuumed resivior may be needed. Along with the time delay. It will also give you more time when breaking.
Another great video. I like the animated wirig diagrams, I'll have to remembered this video when someone is interested in how relays work. Looking forward to the supercharger install and experiments.
Thank you for the detail - it's nice to have episodes like this......top work Jimbo!
Great explanations! Love learning 👍
I think the vacuum tank could have worked, but the problem it solves could be better solved by putting the pump very near the reservoir. The chatter appears to be from rebounding air, or pressure normalizing.
25in of vacuum seems like a bit much, might be hard on the pump and booster over time.
Love these projects, inspires me to get out there and tinker around when I can, Thank you!
Juice the Algo
I designed a 3D printed centrifugal electric supercharger that I plan to put it in a 1,6 L Elantra this summer in a really janky way. I tested the concept on my Volvo V50 diesel and it actually works.
I just learned something about electronics. Thanks, Jimbo! 👍
If this was ElectroBoom, the cap would have blown up.
Nothing worse than an exploding capacitor...LOL
@robotcantina8957 They do smell terrible!
I suppose that education is part of the value here, but sometimes it seems that you (Jimbo) need to spend an inordinate amount of time explaining why comment suggestions won't work. Popular comments probably deserve a response, but please know that not all of us are out here claiming that you're doing it wrong ;). You explained the brake chattering problem perfectly clearly in the last video, yet had to spend much of this one explaining it again, so thank you for your patience.
Good job Jimbo! Always a treat to watch another video. Keep on keepin’ on!!!
Wow today's the first time I viewed the main page of your channel. I've always watched via suggested videos etc. So I never saw your Spit till now. I really liked my Spitfire. What a fun and easy to work on car. It's one of the few wouldn't mind owning again.
You probably can just remove the relay from the programmable relays circuit board and just wire the larger relay in place of the original relay.
The marsupials will appreciate your quick brake response time
I was awaiting for another video, as a brazilian we call this a "Gambiarra"
I look forward to each new episode. Great projects abc the perfect mix of humor to make pleasantly entertaining. Thanks Jimbo
The modified KISS solution is usually the best, that being the Keep It Stupid Simple approach in terms of reliability. The only other thing that came to mind was a pressure switch that has a fair amount of wiggle room for the on/off cutout, though the cheapie diaphragm-based ones like to blow out at the worst time (aka, when you Need it!) Your electronic timer is perfect though, and should remain Much more reliable. Kudos my man!
A small transistor plus capacitor triggering the relay input would work pretty well. The capacitor would be able to be really small, and could be tuned with a potentiometer to adjust how long it stays on for. Basically an "RC" circuit.
If you're going as far as using a programmable time delay relay, might as well just bite the bullet and swap it out for an Arduino and actual pressure sensor. You can program it to work at any pressure you want, use latching to avoid chattering (turn on at 8psi, turn off at 10psi), have inputs for the brake lights to proactively add more vacuum, turn on a warning LED if the pressure is too low, etc. Much simpler, cheaper, and more reliable than a hodgepodge of electrical components. The pressure sensor would likely be an old MAP sensor from your spare parts drawer.
Top of the morning Jimbo. I always look forward to Sunday mornings spending my time with a cup of coffee and a robot.
6:48 watching Jimbo and seeing a random video from Türkiye, I wasn't ready for this encounter.
Thanks very much Jimbo for your videos! I do learn so much and especially this and the last episode will help me put an electrical vacuum pump on my oldtimer 🙂
As well as enjoying the Robot cantina video I learned something new about relays.
Thanks Jimbo
Great job. Thanks for the lesson Uncle Jimbo.
Nice exposition of the problem and solution Jimbo. Keeps me coming back for more! I almost thought you had a 555 timer in your future, but there's always something reassuring about off the shelf components.
Excellent presentation. Thank you. This one was extra "good".
Thanks for a great start to my Sunday!
Excellent video series I love all the theory and planning coolest Honda out there to me
Well worked out Jimbo!.
Turn the boost up!! 😎
Interesting, you talked about snubber relays. I can't connect to grid power so I'm on wind and solar. I'm wanting to set up a control system in my cabin to opporate my generator that sits 100 feet away. I plan to use a raspberry pi or something that activates some relays. Looks like the snubber may be worthwhile. This whole off grid thing is getting out of hand with all the odds and ends. My lights run off of 2 relays that I set up as a 3 way switch. I can turn the lights on at the door or on from my bed😂 great video!
Very well explained about circuitry and engineering!
This is a great setup! Would be very useful for old VW's being converted to diesel!