Good job Brian. Just thinking that you might want to use two back draft dampers and isolate each supply instead of the one at the dehumidifier. Just a thought in case one system is running and one is not or maybe use electronic dampers in each line...again just a thought. Good job!
What do you think about attaching the supply from the dehumidifier into the air handler return duct? That way you don't have to add a back draft damper and the dehumidifier does not have to fight against the supply air pressure from air handler blower.
I see a guy who likes his whirlygigs! 😛 Fantastic info in this video. I work in a large hospital with a research facility and humidity is always an issue! Our OR rooms must be maintained between 45 and 52% RH and it can be a struggle here in the South East during the summertime. It's much easier to control humidity once you can make the facility neutral pressure or slightly positive.
Always thought spray foam was the way to go till I started researching dehumidifiers and noticed all the videos of dehumidifiers are in homes with foam insulation. Seems connected to me.
Thanks Bryan for the time you spend sharing. I do have a question related to cleaning indoor and outdoor coils. How dirty do coils have to be before we realize a decrease in efficiency? Would you wait until you can see the coating/film/dirt on the coil OR would you make it a part of an annual preventive maintenance procedure? Would it be reasonable to say that a clean coil would help with dehumidifying indoor air?
Condenser Coil cleaning is important as a regular maintenance item. Will it help dehumidification? Usually not unless it’s really bad. It will impact longevity and power consumption. Evap coils won’t get dirty if you keep a good filter in place replaced regularly and possibly a UV light in a very high growth climate
So what’s the best way to deal with the heated air? By dumping it into the supply lines is it divided up enough where you don’t feel the warm air blowing?
In hot, humid climates like FL, I think just putting a 12-15 kbtu mini-split running on dehumidify mode (low air flow rate) would be more efficient than a dehumidifier. Why dump 95 deg F heat from dehumidifier condenser back into house. 95 degs F @ 24% RH dehumidifier output translates to 75 degs F at 45% RH equivalent dehumidifier output when brought down to room temp and eats up about 6.5 kBTU's sensible heat removal energy from your regular air conditioner to bring the 95 degs F air back down to 75 degs F at 300 CFM on dehumidifier. On my central air, I went with a slightly higher btu outside fixed capacity unit and a variable speed air handler to help with humidity control. I preferred to avoid the inverter VFD compressor outside unit.
Love the videos. Can you explain how the damper stays open when using a whole house dehumidifier while running the air handler blower? The cfm of the dehumidifier is lower than the air handler blower so how does this work? Thanks
If the dehumidifier supply is ducted to supply of air handler is there a damper to keep the ac from blowing back through dehumidifier? If so if both are running at the same time can the dehumidifier over come the blower from the AC ?
Hi Brian, thanks for sharing this clip, it is very useful! Would you please share the brand name of this dehudifier? My house's attic is pretty hot during the Summer time, I wonder if this dehudifier could work in that hot condition? Please let me know. Thanks
Does the dehu need to be pitched towards the drain side of the unit or install level? Curious if mine is actually draining adequately with the unit leveled like it is.
How much juice is reheat burning? Can you post screenshots? Maybe you could buy a Sense or other energy monitor and figure it out? I'm curious to see someone else's data. =) From what I'm seeing, reheat probably uses a bit more, maybe $10-20/month more than a dehu, but saving a $3-4K dehu buys a lot of juice. We do it both ways, and the 155XT only burns 800 watts, which is pretty sweet considering 70 pint dehus burn 600.
You might try turning off the ERV and just running the dehu when you get the fresh air hooked up. We like the pressurization strategy in humid weather, it pushes dried air through the leaks, should help prevent moisture damage. BUT you have a ton of occupants, the 40-60 cfm of that unit is probably inadequate for your family.
would you connect the 24V to the star terminal on a nest thermostat to allow the nest to control the dehumidifier? Looking at the Ultra Aire 120H for my 2600 sq ft house.
HVAC School you could tee it in with the one for the dehum and then the t&p would be isolated. I'm just picturing the possibility of scalding hot water spraying everywhere in your nice mechanical room.
Maybe this video is your attempt to sell some dehumidifiers, but I don't believe that an air conditioned residence needs a whole house dehumidifier. Did you try simply reducing cfm through the evaporator and, if necessary, adding a freeze stat to turn off the compressor only when imminent freezing is detected?
Paul Ohlstein I never said they “NEED” one. I have a very advanced dehumidification system on my home and the dehumidifier helps me maintain below 55% RH which is great for IAQ and comfort especially during edge seasons
I would disagree Paul. Depending on where you are located "coastal,northern, etc. " whole home dehumidifier is a great investment. Let's say you leave home everyday for long periods and raise your indoor temp reducing Ac run time, Your system is not cycling as well as only cycling on sensible heat. Also during shoulder seasons your systems are not on long enough for humidity control. The dehumidifier doesn't care what temperature it is and will maintain the home reducing the load on your AC system. If your needing fresh air the dehumidifier will help bringing it in and lowering the fresh air moisture load. This home has closed Cell insulation and when moisture is introduced and creeps into the encapsulated space it becomes trapped, The Ac drys the home but some of that moisture creeps up into the attic. It then travels up to the highest point and pushed back into the home depending on temperature swings "day, night" Your Ac does a fair job at humidity control so long as it's running....They dont always run. If your putting freeze stats on systems to control moisture you chance damaging your compressor, sweating of the ductwork depending on r values and duct pressures, overcooling the space, and still only controlling humidity while its running . It's just not really worth it
@@HVACS 55% RH isn't that low TBH... any AC unit can do that. When it feels comfortable and cool the RH should be closer to 40%. 55% takes no effort at all for any system to achieve.
@@enkrypt3d sure you can reach 40% but at what temperature? I personally wouldn't put one in my house. But if I wanted to maintain a low humidity 40% at a higher temperature let's say 78° you would probably need a dehumidifier. But then again like I said I would not install a dehumidifier in my home under normal circumstances. More maintenance, more electrical cost plus cost to install. I personally wouldn't make the investment. I would rather go with a higher seer rating on an a new a/c system or install a dehum compatable system.
I don't know where you are, Paul, but down here in southeast Texas, only 50 miles from the Gulf of Mexico, humidity is a big thing. In a new house or total A/C replacement, you could use a variable speed condenser unit with matching furnace fan. We had two speed units at our last house. It would run full speed to get the set temperature, but then if the humidity was higher than that setting, the condenser and fan would run at low speed to reach target RH. For us, 74-75 degrees at 45-48% RH was quite comfortable. We moved a couple years ago to a spec home with "builder grade" AC. On or off. High seer but only one speed. We can cool down to 70-72 and still not be comfortable. Code here requires fresh air intake, so when our downstairs unit (the larger one) is running, it is pulling in outside air--which at the moment is 89 degrees and 78% RH. The A/C can cool it easily, however...Cool and clammy is one description of the feel. Also, we're under voluntary conservation right now, asked to set thermostats to 78. Upstairs is 61% RH; downstairs 56%. We're looking now at a whole house dehumidifier. Or maybe two. :-)
Hi Brian, just wanted to confirm that you decided to leave the Dehumidifiers input ducting open, to draw in the humid air from the attic only? The climate where i am doesn't really get humid, so i'm thinking of running the Dehumidifiers input ducting from my two bathrooms and kitchen and then the output ducting from the Dehumidifier will join into my HVAC system to distribute the dry air around the house. Do you think this would work ok?
If there is a vibration noise you wish to isolate record it on your phone, place the phone against the vibrating part to get a better recording, and send it to me. Also let me know the weight of the unit you are isolating. I can direct you to a possible solution. Good to see you "eat your own dogfood" aka dogfooding (that's a real word btw) (Prez of Kal Kan Pet Food if you want to know) if you didn't use the products you recommend then you don't know what you are selling.
![“อ.เบียร์ คนตื่นธรรม” มาตามคำเรียกร้อง แหกศาสตร์ฮวงจุ้ย เตือนสติอย่างมงาย | แฉ 7 พ.ย. 67 [1/3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5fc4S3xBNfc/mqdefault.jpg)
Good job Brian. Just thinking that you might want to use two back draft dampers and isolate each supply instead of the one at the dehumidifier. Just a thought in case one system is running and one is not or maybe use electronic dampers in each line...again just a thought. Good job!
You make a really good point
John looks thrilled to be there
Jonathan's enthusiasm is truly infectious.
What do you think about attaching the supply from the dehumidifier into the air handler return duct? That way you don't have to add a back draft damper and the dehumidifier does not have to fight against the supply air pressure from air handler blower.
I see a guy who likes his whirlygigs! 😛 Fantastic info in this video. I work in a large hospital with a research facility and humidity is always an issue! Our OR rooms must be maintained between 45 and 52% RH and it can be a struggle here in the South East during the summertime. It's much easier to control humidity once you can make the facility neutral pressure or slightly positive.
Always thought spray foam was the way to go till I started researching dehumidifiers and noticed all the videos of dehumidifiers are in homes with foam insulation. Seems connected to me.
Thanks for sharing Bryan! Really nice system!
Thanks Bryan for the time you spend sharing.
I do have a question related to cleaning indoor and outdoor coils. How dirty do coils have to be before we realize a decrease in efficiency? Would you wait until you can see the coating/film/dirt on the coil OR would you make it a part of an annual preventive maintenance procedure? Would it be reasonable to say that a clean coil would help with dehumidifying indoor air?
Condenser Coil cleaning is important as a regular maintenance item. Will it help dehumidification? Usually not unless it’s really bad. It will impact longevity and power consumption.
Evap coils won’t get dirty if you keep a good filter in place replaced regularly and possibly a UV light in a very high growth climate
So what’s the best way to deal with the heated air? By dumping it into the supply lines is it divided up enough where you don’t feel the warm air blowing?
just ordered the ultra aire 120H ..... really hoping it doesn't heat up my house too much
@@enkrypt3d How'd it go? Did it introduce much heat into your system?
@@AJoshMorrow no it's not noticeable
In hot, humid climates like FL, I think just putting a 12-15 kbtu mini-split running on dehumidify mode (low air flow rate) would be more efficient than a dehumidifier. Why dump 95 deg F heat from dehumidifier condenser back into house.
95 degs F @ 24% RH dehumidifier output translates to 75 degs F at 45% RH equivalent dehumidifier output when brought down to room temp and eats up about 6.5 kBTU's sensible heat removal energy from your regular air conditioner to bring the 95 degs F air back down to 75 degs F at 300 CFM on dehumidifier.
On my central air, I went with a slightly higher btu outside fixed capacity unit and a variable speed air handler to help with humidity control. I preferred to avoid the inverter VFD compressor outside unit.
Your house is awesome 😎
Love the videos. Can you explain how the damper stays open when using a whole house dehumidifier while running the air handler blower? The cfm of the dehumidifier is lower than the air handler blower so how does this work? Thanks
Would you consider breaking the longer videos into smaller segments🤔
If the dehumidifier supply is ducted to supply of air handler is there a damper to keep the ac from blowing back through dehumidifier?
If so if both are running at the same time can the dehumidifier over come the blower from the AC ?
Hi Brian, thanks for sharing this clip, it is very useful!
Would you please share the brand name of this dehudifier?
My house's attic is pretty hot during the Summer time, I wonder if this dehudifier could work in that hot condition? Please let me know. Thanks
It's a Clean Comfort. Clean Comfort is owned by Daikin who owns Amana, Goodman etc.
Does the dehu need to be pitched towards the drain side of the unit or install level? Curious if mine is actually draining adequately with the unit leveled like it is.
nice harwoods!
What hvac system do you have with reheat/preheat?
I have the Aprilaire 1850 and have it set to 40% RH. At this setting is it possible for the unit to reach this level. My home is only 1100 Sq. Ft.
great video. question, 1 dehumidifier on 2 systems are you running the blowers while dehumidifying?
no it's independent .
Which system are turns on the blower since you have them tied together?
How much juice is reheat burning? Can you post screenshots? Maybe you could buy a Sense or other energy monitor and figure it out? I'm curious to see someone else's data. =)
From what I'm seeing, reheat probably uses a bit more, maybe $10-20/month more than a dehu, but saving a $3-4K dehu buys a lot of juice. We do it both ways, and the 155XT only burns 800 watts, which is pretty sweet considering 70 pint dehus burn 600.
Closed cell! Sweet!
You might try turning off the ERV and just running the dehu when you get the fresh air hooked up. We like the pressurization strategy in humid weather, it pushes dried air through the leaks, should help prevent moisture damage. BUT you have a ton of occupants, the 40-60 cfm of that unit is probably inadequate for your family.
would you connect the 24V to the star terminal on a nest thermostat to allow the nest to control the dehumidifier? Looking at the Ultra Aire 120H for my 2600 sq ft house.
@HVAC School no engagement on any of your YT videos? really?
Do you have the t&p valve tied into the condensate drain on that water heater?
Joe Shearer yes... how many separate drains do you expect me to run!
HVAC School you could tee it in with the one for the dehum and then the t&p would be isolated. I'm just picturing the possibility of scalding hot water spraying everywhere in your nice mechanical room.
I really like adding a primary inline drain switch directly at the drain outlet like the ss1
Dehumidifier? Pfft... I need some humidifier install vids... its dry as hell up here in the Rockies...
nsboost grew up in New Mexico. Didn’t realize how freaking dry it was until my wife and I went to Denver.
Not exactly an endorsement of Ultra Aire quality control that the consumer had to trim the backflow damper so it wouldn't stick.
7:00 someone is spying on their neighbors or why else would there be binoculars next to a window?
Um... birds, kids playing “let’s look out the window” 😂😂
Maybe this video is your attempt to sell some dehumidifiers, but I don't believe that an air conditioned residence needs a whole house dehumidifier. Did you try simply reducing cfm through the evaporator and, if necessary, adding a freeze stat to turn off the compressor only when imminent freezing is detected?
Paul Ohlstein I never said they “NEED” one. I have a very advanced dehumidification system on my home and the dehumidifier helps me maintain below 55% RH which is great for IAQ and comfort especially during edge seasons
I would disagree Paul. Depending on where you are located "coastal,northern, etc. " whole home dehumidifier is a great investment. Let's say you leave home everyday for long periods and raise your indoor temp reducing Ac run time, Your system is not cycling as well as only cycling on sensible heat. Also during shoulder seasons your systems are not on long enough for humidity control. The dehumidifier doesn't care what temperature it is and will maintain the home reducing the load on your AC system. If your needing fresh air the dehumidifier will help bringing it in and lowering the fresh air moisture load. This home has closed Cell insulation and when moisture is introduced and creeps into the encapsulated space it becomes trapped, The Ac drys the home but some of that moisture creeps up into the attic. It then travels up to the highest point and pushed back into the home depending on temperature swings "day, night" Your Ac does a fair job at humidity control so long as it's running....They dont always run. If your putting freeze stats on systems to control moisture you chance damaging your compressor, sweating of the ductwork depending on r values and duct pressures, overcooling the space, and still only controlling humidity while its running . It's just not really worth it
@@HVACS 55% RH isn't that low TBH... any AC unit can do that. When it feels comfortable and cool the RH should be closer to 40%. 55% takes no effort at all for any system to achieve.
@@enkrypt3d sure you can reach 40% but at what temperature? I personally wouldn't put one in my house. But if I wanted to maintain a low humidity 40% at a higher temperature let's say 78° you would probably need a dehumidifier. But then again like I said I would not install a dehumidifier in my home under normal circumstances. More maintenance, more electrical cost plus cost to install. I personally wouldn't make the investment. I would rather go with a higher seer rating on an a new a/c system or install a dehum compatable system.
I don't know where you are, Paul, but down here in southeast Texas, only 50 miles from the Gulf of Mexico, humidity is a big thing. In a new house or total A/C replacement, you could use a variable speed condenser unit with matching furnace fan. We had two speed units at our last house. It would run full speed to get the set temperature, but then if the humidity was higher than that setting, the condenser and fan would run at low speed to reach target RH. For us, 74-75 degrees at 45-48% RH was quite comfortable. We moved a couple years ago to a spec home with "builder grade" AC. On or off. High seer but only one speed. We can cool down to 70-72 and still not be comfortable. Code here requires fresh air intake, so when our downstairs unit (the larger one) is running, it is pulling in outside air--which at the moment is 89 degrees and 78% RH. The A/C can cool it easily, however...Cool and clammy is one description of the feel. Also, we're under voluntary conservation right now, asked to set thermostats to 78. Upstairs is 61% RH; downstairs 56%. We're looking now at a whole house dehumidifier. Or maybe two. :-)
Hi Brian, just wanted to confirm that you decided to leave the Dehumidifiers input ducting open, to draw in the humid air from the attic only? The climate where i am doesn't really get humid, so i'm thinking of running the Dehumidifiers input ducting from my two bathrooms and kitchen and then the output ducting from the Dehumidifier will join into my HVAC system to distribute the dry air around the house. Do you think this would work ok?
I will try to answer this in my Q/A video
Check the Santa Fe/Ultra Aire manual, but I believe they do not want you pulling from those locations.
Is the foam fire retardent?
Dear God get some oil on that front door! That was frightening.
Heat doesn't dehumidify.
If there is a vibration noise you wish to isolate record it on your phone, place the phone against the vibrating part to get a better recording, and send it to me. Also let me know the weight of the unit you are isolating. I can direct you to a possible solution. Good to see you "eat your own dogfood" aka dogfooding (that's a real word btw) (Prez of Kal Kan Pet Food if you want to know) if you didn't use the products you recommend then you don't know what you are selling.
You’re nuts
Again
Gosh he’s trying too hard to be witty and engaging and it makes this video cringey! Use a tripod, minimize the camera movement.