Yeah cause you're definitely not going to do something shady with this and leaving it bright shiny and safety yellow would be fine. Not to mention it looks like shit if you don't paint it. Fucking derp and a half.
I use metallic fleck hot pink rolled in glitter with it’s pronounced stenciled on the side so the door feels less offended😂 It’s pronouns are “it and aircraft”.
You've really done a great job with this tool and it's such a practical solution if you don't mind doing a bit of work. Thanks so much for posting this ITS!
In a professional and industrial setting, tools are modified several times a day, no questions asked. Hell, I've cut the drive section off 1" drive impact sockets, plasma cut a new socket, and tigged the drive section plate onto the cut pieces to make a socket that took over 2,000 ft/lb of torque. Those who say "Don't modify tools! Think of the safety!" are those whom most likely don't have tools in the first place. This is an excellent idea, I plan on modifying the idea a bit as well. Thanks!
@RnW93 Not a bad idea. I remember seeing a special "hatchet" type tool on a MC130 for cutting through aircraft skin. It had some type of spike on one end. ~Eric
You’ve never seen me use an angle grinder😂 there’s a reason I use a saws-all for as much as possible. My brother is the metal work guy I’m the “can whack a chunk off with an angle grinder or cutting torch and sorta stick things together with a stick welder guy.”
i laughed so much when you said "i plobably need to get a new one" and "my disk is pretty much toasted" about the grinding disk...man, that disk has about 95% use left or even more...
This isn't my video, but I have to say something about one or two of these comments... 1. those are solid T304 stainless to the best of my knowledge, unless you are cutting this thing with a blowtorch, you will not "ruin the metallurgy". 2. you don't use cutting fluid with fiber cutting wheels and/or grinding discs. you would use cutting fluid on carbide or HSS cutting tools though. 3. while I agree with most of you on if you're a L.E.O. you probably would just buy a breaching tool. Who knows? maybe dudes got 20 kids and 19 ex's and because of child support had to make an inexpensive one. I'm just saying, cut this guy a little slack! Fuckin A! Everyone's a critic now days when no one is a master of what they're critiquing. @ITStactical ALWAYS hold the grinder so the wheel is spinning toward the ground, or pulling the grinder away from you. Sometimes you have to take stuff out of the vise an flip it over, but it beats getting stitches or losing a finger... (I've had stitches more than once from rushing through something and having the grinder kick back at me. A trip to the ER takes more time than repositioning something in the vise) I didn't notice if you did or not, but you should flip the can over and spray until you just get air out of the nozzle. Wiping off the outside of the nozzle doesn't matter if the nozzle is still full of paint that will dry and clog it... Not raggin on ya just trying to be helpful. While I'd love to keep correcting some of the idiots that are giving you all kinds of shit in these comments, I recently realized that trying to fix stupid is a waste of energy. Great info and product demos in the majority of your videos brother, keep it up!
19 minute video could have been 9 minutes if you didn't say "AH" every eleven seconds. Be sure and wear body, hand and eye protection, but take the safety guard off the angle grinder.
ITS, found your site a while ago, didn't know you had a youtube channel- 13 yr Blue Cord Vet- great info and gear. The comment section with all the interweb ecksperts is hilarious, keep on keeping on. Thanks for this block of instruction!
Great video. There is something about the efficiency of a Halligan-styled tool. By the way Stanley's latest iteration is their 36" FatMax Xtreme FuBar III. That is a tool!
I was thinking paracord and plastidip. They brought up a good point in the article about glass being a liability with a cord wrap, but going over the cordage with plastidip should help mitigate that.
I got to looking for this thing online so that I could make one of these breaching tools, but now that I’m looking into it’s features, I’m going to have to get two and keep one intact for construction and demolition. Very cool.
Grinding the teeth down music was the best. I like the idea. Very ingenious imo. I'm gonna do it. Holding the can upside down to clear the tube and nozzle of paint? Dude I never thought of doing that before.
interesting point I heard on this topic while watching a different video: although a halligan is obviously better since a single purpose tool is more efficient at that one thing than a multitool would be for the same task. but most people who carry them in a bag or trunk are thieves, at least in the minds of some police officers. sure, firemen use halligans at work all the time, but the tools belong to the city. those same firemen might not have one at home. many construction workers certainly travel with halligans, BUT they also have entire truckloads of other building tools that give them credibility. so the point the other video was trying to make was that using a Fatmax from Walmart could pass as just a simple tool that John Doe, law abiding citizen, may just happen to have in his car. obviously painting and modding it out kinda kills that excuse. but I know I've had run ins with individual officers who didn't know all of the laws regarding some of the tools and equipment that I had on me. and in 1 incident they just tried to find something else to find fault with. so I just try to keep all of my gear discreet and make my kids look close to stock issue. every city and state are different just like our individual prep/survival philosophies. I still thought it was interesting point to consider. GREAT WORK ON THE TOOL THOUGH!
I like this idea! I had looked at a Halligan tool before, but they're so large and heavy that they would be impractical to carry for any distance. Also, nice work with the paintjob.
A hint for safety, make a habit of always laying down your angle grinder with the disk facing upwards. Otherwise, if you accidently hit the switch while picking it up, or if you lay it down while the disk is still spinning, violent things may happen.
Do you have any plans to do this again with the new 30" Stanley FUBAR? It looks like it's actual haligan sized. And I'd like to see a video with you actually using this one and/or the 30" as a haligan to breach a door.
I went on E-Bay and it is actually named a Fubar tool! How funny! I have an Estwing Cat's Paw in my B.O.B. for just such occasions. After being without power for 12 days in NJ I learned a few things. I was looking around thinking that my 10KW generator, chain saws, tools to hot wire a car and break into a home might be more effective than wilderness survival gear.
I actually think you can buy a hammer that looks like this . The only issue with the hammer is the face might be hard enough one light need to de harden it it a bit so it doesn’t shatter
Love the video and love modifing things , but a question. why not just buy the stanley Precision Claw Bar? No cutting off pieces, seems the same result with no work. Whats the diff between the two?
You should modify a fence puller and use it as a door hammer or like use a sledge hammer, you can also use a cordless angle grinder and masonary hole saw set for lay up hides in urban areas
I have to echo the sentiment of other posters on here, use the guard for your grinder! Better yet, use a portaband, it's easier, quicker and safer. While I do like your ingenuity, mini halligans can be bought for less than $100, are more functional and don't need the mod work. Also, tipping the spray paint over and spraying for just a second cleans the whole nozzle pretty quick. Keep up the good work!
Of course, there's always the MLD-K version, although that doesn't work on metal doors. But hey, what else are dustbusters, det cord, and saline bags good for anyway?
I knew this would be hilarious as soon as I saw "tactical".. and then I got to the part when he is spraying patterns onto the tool to enhance his army man fantasy
How about a video update with the molle sheath for the fubar fatmax that you mention you were having made ? Finally made the commitment and took a air driven cutoff tool to mine ;>)
You point out to have safety glasses and gloves but the guard has been removed and side handle from the grinder. I bought a pack of zip blades where every time i started cutting the metal arbor in the middle of the blade would come off the wheel sending the wheel flying. I took the pack back and was told there was a recall on those blades for that reason. If I never had the guard on I could of got that blade in the neck, chest, or arm very easily. I would use a guard before gloves that can melt any day. Stay safe and wear leather or at least gloves that wont melt to your skin and put that guard back on!
Hey ITS have you tried putting a ax edge between the hammer face and the handle. Looks like it would be a good spot for it or would it just get in the way?
Not to bash or anything but he was really taking his sweet dandy time. Being and iron worker, it was funny seeing him scratch at the tool with the cutting wheel and then the grinder
@ITStactical well im not sure of the handle construction, but i would like to at least get rid of the yellow borders. if it is just rubber coated over the steel tool i would maybe remove it and have a more simple slimline handle. then again i havent held this tool so i dont know how i could do it yet.
thirteenospades I KNOW WHAT IT IS FOR I WANTED TO SEE YOUR MODIFICATION IN USE TO SEE IF IT WOULD HOLD UP AFTER YOUR MODIFICATION ( JUST TO LET YOU KNOW I HAVE A REGULAR L.E. BREACHER )
Apparently some people are missing the point of this tool. This will make a lightweight entry tool. It's purpose is is breach doors. Not necessarily for firefighters, but for Police, SWAT, and military use. A halligan tool is nice; I've used them. They are spendy, and not really of a size to carry in a patrol bag or pack. I'm going to make one. Thanks ITS.
just a few thoughts... wouldnt you want use a rasp to put a better edge on that, and wouldnt you want to avoid paining the edges your gonna stick into say a door frame? the paint would cause sticking and would chip. really like the pattern tho.
You could rough up the rubber handle and spray it with plastidip, get rid of the yellow so it fits with the color scheme and doesn't lose the grip. Some of my tools I even put stuff like fine grain sand in the plastidip for texture.
I had one of the original fat max tools and carried it in Iraq. Had it for years and then became a cop. Left it in my patrol vehicle over the weekend and someone decided they liked it as much as I did, I haven’t seen it since.
Im considering doing mine like this. I dont need to breach doors but it would have been nice if they made this with the sharper back spike. Alot of times it would come in handy trying to get between tighter thick boards.
Right? I really tried to like the board bender, but it really isn't all that useful. I have a modded one and a stock one and I find the modded one to be far more useful.
Cool! The Stanley 55-119 is a pretty similar design to the stock model 55-099 you use here, its slightly shorter and only about half the weight. You could do the same mod to the 55-119 and have a lighter more compact tool. With the mod how much weight did the tool lose?
Like I can see the use in making essentially a hammer/pick for breeching. But as others have said, this seems like a really expensive way of doing what a cheaper crowbar will do or even a reprofiled crowbar.
One question. How much weight does it lose from cutting and grinding it? One thing i like about this thing is the weight. I guess they are only $30 so if i dont like it i can just get a new one.
Those grinding and cutting disks still have 99.5% life left. They are designed to wear away and maintain the cutting and grinding ability throughout the whole disk. Unlike a saw blade they do not dull. The cutting disks can be used until you cannot physically touch them to the work material as the gearbox of the grinder touches first. Grinding wheels can be used until they are a stub no bigger the the mounting flanges.
secondly both your cutting and grinding discs have a lot more use in them grinding discs have a very long use life and unless your using them all the time they will last about 20 hours of good use and a cutting disc will still cut even down at 2" ask at your local hardwear store for the right disc to use when grinding differant metals as there are discs for both soft and hard metals
@thinkagain96 I didn't go into breaching on purpose. That is something I would recommend you get hands on training with and make sure you have a legitimate trainer. ~Eric S.
I suggest if you buy a grinder you invest a little more and get a 6" so you can use the extremely handy 6" cutting disks. Instead of a grinding "rock", I prefer flap discs for blending and shaping because they polish as they cut. If you want to keep your work cool just periodically dunk it in a pail of water. Take your time and you won't overheat the steel. If in doubt, periodically check and if the work isn't hotter than your bare hand can stand you are at no risk annealing the metal.
why would you not just sharpen the end with the nail puller since it isn't hooked anymore? just buy a new one and sharpen the "pry" end to fit between a doorjamb
So, this is what you do with your dads tools when he's gone. You're so grounded when he finds out.
Painting it camo helps you sneak up on the door.
It definitely won’t see you coming
Yeah cause you're definitely not going to do something shady with this and leaving it bright shiny and safety yellow would be fine. Not to mention it looks like shit if you don't paint it.
Fucking derp and a half.
Facts
I did that but then I couldn't find it anymore
I use metallic fleck hot pink rolled in glitter with it’s pronounced stenciled on the side so the door feels less offended😂
It’s pronouns are “it and aircraft”.
Ignored the comments from the haters and watched it through to the end. I love the mesh and spray paint idea. Great looking paint job.
What happend to the good old days of using a crow bar?
You've really done a great job with this tool and it's such a practical solution if you don't mind doing a bit of work. Thanks so much for posting this ITS!
I have a Annihilator Wrecking Bar from home depot that I've been bs'n on wanting to do something like this. Good vid man!
In a professional and industrial setting, tools are modified several times a day, no questions asked. Hell, I've cut the drive section off 1" drive impact sockets, plasma cut a new socket, and tigged the drive section plate onto the cut pieces to make a socket that took over 2,000 ft/lb of torque.
Those who say "Don't modify tools! Think of the safety!" are those whom most likely don't have tools in the first place. This is an excellent idea, I plan on modifying the idea a bit as well. Thanks!
@RnW93 Not a bad idea. I remember seeing a special "hatchet" type tool on a MC130 for cutting through aircraft skin. It had some type of spike on one end. ~Eric
Wish we can see a video of the breaching tool "in action"😊
I have never seen a human use a angle grinder in such an unskilled manner. Bravo for the ppe.
You’ve never seen me use an angle grinder😂 there’s a reason I use a saws-all for as much as possible. My brother is the metal work guy I’m the “can whack a chunk off with an angle grinder or cutting torch and sorta stick things together with a stick welder guy.”
i laughed so much when you said "i plobably need to get a new one" and "my disk is pretty much toasted" about the grinding disk...man, that disk has about 95% use left or even more...
This isn't my video, but I have to say something about one or two of these comments... 1. those are solid T304 stainless to the best of my knowledge, unless you are cutting this thing with a blowtorch, you will not "ruin the metallurgy". 2. you don't use cutting fluid with fiber cutting wheels and/or grinding discs. you would use cutting fluid on carbide or HSS cutting tools though. 3. while I agree with most of you on if you're a L.E.O. you probably would just buy a breaching tool. Who knows? maybe dudes got 20 kids and 19 ex's and because of child support had to make an inexpensive one. I'm just saying, cut this guy a little slack! Fuckin A! Everyone's a critic now days when no one is a master of what they're critiquing. @ITStactical ALWAYS hold the grinder so the wheel is spinning toward the ground, or pulling the grinder away from you. Sometimes you have to take stuff out of the vise an flip it over, but it beats getting stitches or losing a finger... (I've had stitches more than once from rushing through something and having the grinder kick back at me. A trip to the ER takes more time than repositioning something in the vise) I didn't notice if you did or not, but you should flip the can over and spray until you just get air out of the nozzle. Wiping off the outside of the nozzle doesn't matter if the nozzle is still full of paint that will dry and clog it... Not raggin on ya just trying to be helpful. While I'd love to keep correcting some of the idiots that are giving you all kinds of shit in these comments, I recently realized that trying to fix stupid is a waste of energy. Great info and product demos in the majority of your videos brother, keep it up!
+Micah Thomason thank you. Not going to lie, I was sort of around of that one when I read it back LOL
+Ryan Daniels proud* autocorrect
19 minute video could have been 9 minutes if you didn't say "AH" every eleven seconds. Be sure and wear body, hand and eye protection, but take the safety guard off the angle grinder.
ITS, found your site a while ago, didn't know you had a youtube channel- 13 yr Blue Cord Vet- great info and gear. The comment section with all the interweb ecksperts is hilarious, keep on keeping on. Thanks for this block of instruction!
Thumbs down for no breeching demo.
+ernie5229 I know, right? NO DEMO!?!? GTFO! lol
@@mdsuave13 he told you all you need to know in a brief sentence; jam the spike between the door and frame
Great video. There is something about the efficiency of a Halligan-styled tool. By the way Stanley's latest iteration is their 36" FatMax Xtreme FuBar III. That is a tool!
great idea, i will be on the way to making this one shortly. i need to think opf how to change that handle though...
I was thinking paracord and plastidip.
They brought up a good point in the article about glass being a liability with a cord wrap, but going over the cordage with plastidip should help mitigate that.
Nice modification and great paint job.
Any plans to show it breaching?
I got to looking for this thing online so that I could make one of these breaching tools, but now that I’m looking into it’s features, I’m going to have to get two and keep one intact for construction and demolition. Very cool.
I don't see many SWAT teams pulling up 2X4s, which is pretty much all that lower jaw is good for. I actually like this version better.
@Hedgehog, I have no idea. They are great cheap gloves though. ~Eric
Thanks for the vid. I totally did it myself as well. Turned out great. Thanks for the tip.
Grinding the teeth down music was the best. I like the idea. Very ingenious imo. I'm gonna do it. Holding the can upside down to clear the tube and nozzle of paint? Dude I never thought of doing that before.
Some cans need it,some don't. He was a bit excessive. One short pritz and a wipe would do it.
@thegrahamreaper1 Yes, those teeth help when you rake glass from a window frame.
~Eric S.
interesting point I heard on this topic while watching a different video: although a halligan is obviously better since a single purpose tool is more efficient at that one thing than a multitool would be for the same task. but most people who carry them in a bag or trunk are thieves, at least in the minds of some police officers. sure, firemen use halligans at work all the time, but the tools belong to the city. those same firemen might not have one at home. many construction workers certainly travel with halligans, BUT they also have entire truckloads of other building tools that give them credibility. so the point the other video was trying to make was that using a Fatmax from Walmart could pass as just a simple tool that John Doe, law abiding citizen, may just happen to have in his car. obviously painting and modding it out kinda kills that excuse. but I know I've had run ins with individual officers who didn't know all of the laws regarding some of the tools and equipment that I had on me. and in 1 incident they just tried to find something else to find fault with. so I just try to keep all of my gear discreet and make my kids look close to stock issue. every city and state are different just like our individual prep/survival philosophies. I still thought it was interesting point to consider. GREAT WORK ON THE TOOL THOUGH!
I like this idea! I had looked at a Halligan tool before, but they're so large and heavy that they would be impractical to carry for any distance. Also, nice work with the paintjob.
Exactly.
This solution isn't without its drawbacks, but I think it's a more feasible option for the average person.
A hint for safety, make a habit of always laying down your angle grinder with the disk facing upwards.
Otherwise, if you accidently hit the switch while picking it up, or if you lay it down while the disk is still spinning, violent things may happen.
utilizing the guarding would have been a better starting point
Do you have any plans to do this again with the new 30" Stanley FUBAR? It looks like it's actual haligan sized. And I'd like to see a video with you actually using this one and/or the 30" as a haligan to breach a door.
Did you ever get the holster. I couldn't seem to find it on either of the websites.
Cool vid, bro. Was gonna get a Halligan bar but those suckers are $350. Your Fatmax Fubar only costs about $50. You saved me some $$
Nice Work, ---- Great Paint Job !!!
SO glad I learned how to spray paint :o
Very cool tool.I really like the paint job you did.
I went on E-Bay and it is actually named a Fubar tool! How funny! I have an Estwing Cat's Paw in my B.O.B. for just such occasions. After being without power for 12 days in NJ I learned a few things. I was looking around thinking that my 10KW generator, chain saws, tools to hot wire a car and break into a home might be more effective than wilderness survival gear.
@blackhatch46 What are you looking to change about the handle?
~Eric S.
Nothing from 5-11 is cheap...
Good idea, have you had chance to try it?
@siafulinux Great let us know how it turns out.
~Eric S.
Looks like a pretty expensive way to create a crowbar, which you can get at that size for about $16.
***** $10 bucks
I actually think you can buy a hammer that looks like this . The only issue with the hammer is the face might be hard enough one light need to de harden it it a bit so it doesn’t shatter
Could you do a vid of you using it on various locks and doors?
Also, the website your article is on seems to be on the fritz.
Made 3 in the last month for me and buddies. They work!
Love the video and love modifing things , but a question. why not just buy the stanley Precision Claw Bar? No cutting off pieces, seems the same result with no work. Whats the diff between the two?
@MobFrenziedHomicide Its about the same after the mod, around 4 pounds.
Can you please make a cideo with this in action! Like prying a house door open, maybe a car door and some other stuff. Thanks
How well does it work when slugs are comming the other way thru the door? There are doors that will still take you hours to get in.
i dont know how well this thing is gonna hold up, but it looks to me you put alot of effort into re-creating a roofing hammer..
@DemonHide If you not going to "set" it with another tool (in a traditional sense) then you can leave it as is.
~Eric S.
the paint job is badass!
You should modify a fence puller and use it as a door hammer or like use a sledge hammer, you can also use a cordless angle grinder and masonary hole saw set for lay up hides in urban areas
I have to echo the sentiment of other posters on here, use the guard for your grinder! Better yet, use a portaband, it's easier, quicker and safer. While I do like your ingenuity, mini halligans can be bought for less than $100, are more functional and don't need the mod work. Also, tipping the spray paint over and spraying for just a second cleans the whole nozzle pretty quick. Keep up the good work!
What are mini halligans?
Cool idea with the paint!
Given that your finished FatSlack has no wear marks whats the reason for the second unit? Do you sell them?
Can we see this in action?
Of course, there's always the MLD-K version, although that doesn't work on metal doors. But hey, what else are dustbusters, det cord, and saline bags good for anyway?
I knew this would be hilarious as soon as I saw "tactical".. and then I got to the part when he is spraying patterns onto the tool to enhance his army man fantasy
@ITStactical I am curious. What possible reason would you have for using such a tool?!?
doesnt the regular prybar have a thicker nose on it? can u fit it in a doorframe and still fit it in your belt or a pouch?
How about a video update with the molle sheath for the fubar fatmax that you mention you were having made ? Finally made the commitment and took a air driven cutoff tool to mine ;>)
You point out to have safety glasses and gloves but the guard has been removed and side handle from the grinder. I bought a pack of zip blades where every time i started cutting the metal arbor in the middle of the blade would come off the wheel sending the wheel flying. I took the pack back and was told there was a recall on those blades for that reason. If I never had the guard on I could of got that blade in the neck, chest, or arm very easily. I would use a guard before gloves that can melt any day. Stay safe and wear leather or at least gloves that wont melt to your skin and put that guard back on!
What was the purpose of removing that piece of the tool? Was it just to conserve weight?
It's in the way of the breaching pick if you want to use it for proper breaching techniques.
And it's not very useful.
great vid. Im gonna make a couple of these for some guys at my firehouse
Bro you just made a hammer that can’t pull nails😂
Hey ITS have you tried putting a ax edge between the hammer face and the handle. Looks like it would be a good spot for it or would it just get in the way?
Not to bash or anything but he was really taking his sweet dandy time. Being and iron worker, it was funny seeing him scratch at the tool with the cutting wheel and then the grinder
@gjr4315 You are correct, I'm in law enforcement,, but thanks for asking so eloquently.
~Eric S.
very cool vid, extremely thorough and informative. How'd the rig for the vest turn out?
@ITStactical well im not sure of the handle construction, but i would like to at least get rid of the yellow borders. if it is just rubber coated over the steel tool i would maybe remove it and have a more simple slimline handle. then again i havent held this tool so i dont know how i could do it yet.
WELL IT'S A GREAT VIDEO ON HOW TO MODIFY A TOOL I WANT TO SEE HOW THE FRACKING THING WORKS DO VIDEO ON THAT
If you don't know what it's for you probably don't need it.
thirteenospades
I KNOW WHAT IT IS FOR I WANTED TO SEE YOUR MODIFICATION IN USE TO SEE IF IT WOULD HOLD UP AFTER YOUR MODIFICATION ( JUST TO LET YOU KNOW I HAVE A REGULAR L.E. BREACHER )
Talon Gunter 1. Not my video. 2. I think your caps lock is stuck. 3. Good for you.
I don't think this feller needs to be in charge of a fingernail file, much less a grinder,etc.
Love the paint job!
I like it, I will be making one of those, great idea...
Couldn't you use the lower handle as a crow bar as is in the original form?
Apparently some people are missing the point of this tool. This will make a lightweight entry tool. It's purpose is is breach doors. Not necessarily for firefighters, but for Police, SWAT, and military use. A halligan tool is nice; I've used them. They are spendy, and not really of a size to carry in a patrol bag or pack. I'm going to make one. Thanks ITS.
that disk was barely used so why would you need a new one?
Haha no shit. That wheel still had like %75 life left.
looks like it was only used for like a minute and a half of grinding. dude must not know they can be used more than once
Can you do a vid demonstrating it on a door?
Are those Mechanix gloves made in the US?
Really like it ,thanks for the vid I will be making my own shortly
just a few thoughts... wouldnt you want use a rasp to put a better edge on that, and wouldnt you want to avoid paining the edges your gonna stick into say a door frame? the paint would cause sticking and would chip. really like the pattern tho.
The fat max and fubar are amazing tools
Looks good, but wouldnt a small crowbar have the same profile without having to cut off one of the jaws?
Can we see a demonstration of breaching? Either a structure door or maybe a vehicle extrication?
You could rough up the rubber handle and spray it with plastidip, get rid of the yellow so it fits with the color scheme and doesn't lose the grip. Some of my tools I even put stuff like fine grain sand in the plastidip for texture.
I had one of the original fat max tools and carried it in Iraq. Had it for years and then became a cop. Left it in my patrol vehicle over the weekend and someone decided they liked it as much as I did, I haven’t seen it since.
Excellent tutorial bud!! I really dig the conversion to true breaching tool!
Im considering doing mine like this. I dont need to breach doors but it would have been nice if they made this with the sharper back spike. Alot of times it would come in handy trying to get between tighter thick boards.
Right?
I really tried to like the board bender, but it really isn't all that useful.
I have a modded one and a stock one and I find the modded one to be far more useful.
Cool! The Stanley 55-119 is a pretty similar design to the stock model 55-099 you use here, its slightly shorter and only about half the weight. You could do the same mod to the 55-119 and have a lighter more compact tool. With the mod how much weight did the tool lose?
do you think an oxy-fuel torch would also work to cut through it?
No.
Too much heat.
That will definitely screw up the heat treatment.
Like I can see the use in making essentially a hammer/pick for breeching. But as others have said, this seems like a really expensive way of doing what a cheaper crowbar will do or even a reprofiled crowbar.
How much does this weigh after the mod?
What’s the grinding do yo the heat treatment
One question. How much weight does it lose from cutting and grinding it? One thing i like about this thing is the weight. I guess they are only $30 so if i dont like it i can just get a new one.
Wow, those disks have tons of life left.. When it starts coming apart, which is many many hours away, is when you replace them.
Those grinding and cutting disks still have 99.5% life left. They are designed to wear away and maintain the cutting and grinding ability throughout the whole disk. Unlike a saw blade they do not dull. The cutting disks can be used until you cannot physically touch them to the work material as the gearbox of the grinder touches first.
Grinding wheels can be used until they are a stub no bigger the the mounting flanges.
secondly both your cutting and grinding discs have a lot more use in them grinding discs have a very long use life and unless your using them all the time they will last about 20 hours of good use and a cutting disc will still cut even down at 2" ask at your local hardwear store for the right disc to use when grinding differant metals as there are discs for both soft and hard metals
@thinkagain96 I didn't go into breaching on purpose. That is something I would recommend you get hands on training with and make sure you have a legitimate trainer.
~Eric S.
pretty cool, now lets test it ;)
I suggest if you buy a grinder you invest a little more and get a 6" so you can use the extremely handy 6" cutting disks. Instead of a grinding "rock", I prefer flap discs for blending and shaping because they polish as they cut. If you want to keep your work cool just periodically dunk it in a pail of water. Take your time and you won't overheat the steel. If in doubt, periodically check and if the work isn't hotter than your bare hand can stand you are at no risk annealing the metal.
why would you not just sharpen the end with the nail puller since it isn't hooked anymore? just buy a new one and sharpen the "pry" end to fit between a doorjamb
Why not use the other end of the tool?
@Rodgerrynd08 Its Florida, what can I say...
~Eric S.