Insulation for Masonry Buildings - Historic Retrofit
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 มี.ค. 2016
- For more Building & Remodeling videos & Best Practices visit my blog at www.MattRisinger.com
See Kristof's Podcast here: www.positiveenergy.pro/buildin...
Best, Matt Risinger - Risinger Homes in Austin, TX
Very cool to see building science practices applied to historical building.
I've got essentially your "Michigan instance" here in south central PA. We have a concrete block perimeter wall, built in 1946. We've gutted it and are in the process of rebuilding. I couldn't find an exterior insulation/siding combination I liked, so I've chosen to put two layers of R-10 sheet insulation, then a stud wall inside. The stud bays will have another 2" sheet insulation with vapor seal to the studs via foam or caulk. I lose some interior floor space but will have a final nominal thermal performance that is about 50% above local code. My exterior windows will provide weather protection and I'm going to install an interior set of windows/shutters for a thermal barrier in particularly cold weather. I've decided to go with a PEX in floor heat system installed in the joist bays to save the space of an air handling system. I'll cover the heat load with mini-splits on the south side of the house and the master bedroom.
I say all this to express my appreciation for this video, it confirmed my thinking and research into building science over decades (since the '70's). It's always nice when the pro's confirm my choices. :) I'm sure your historic house will turn out fabulous! :)
Oh, and I found you through Wranglerstar's channel, hope you guys work together!
Literally watching this form Michigan looking to restore a brick building from 1886.
Your guest is sharp Matt. Great discussion.
What about the mid south? We get temps from 0 to 100 plus with very high humidity.
Fantastic video Matt and Kristof. Y'all are two of the best in the biz. Saludos.
In the UK we call it due point in the brick winter moves inward summer moves out.
Awesome information! I've got solid masonry walls, no insulation, and a damp issue on the interior walls. The solution is addressed at the end of this video. Thanks so much! 🙂
What did you go with I have the same issue on my remodel? I'm thinking fluid applied on the inside with 1-2" of insulation then fir strips with drywall.
@@Retired_SeniorChief I didn't do the stud wall with insulation yet (as I had planned) because of cost, but hope to in the near future... However what you are describing sounds like you're adding the necessary air cavity to properly insulate the walls. Did you go forward with this yet?
@@SheenaRea No insulation interior I did foam in the block cavity, fur strips on the block wall then an interior vapor barrier then drywall.
Hey Matt, Thank you for all these awesome videos!
I have a similar scenario here in FL, I removed all my interior drywall and noticed the Masonry block walls only had a paper with aluminum backing between the drywall and the wall, which I assume it's some kind of vapor barrier but no insulation on the inside between the furring strips. I have an insulation contractor coming in next week but I wanted to know if insulation was at all helpful here in FL for these type of walls and/or if the paper backing or vapor barrier was all that was needed. Thanks!!
Matt,
I'm trying to build a Quonset Hut house in South Carolina, and to circumvent the issue with the curved arch roof inhibiting useful square footage, I was thinking of building an 8 foot(ish) high wall on the slab to serve as a "foundation" for the Quonset metal frame. Despite all the research, I cannot for the life of me figure out what kind of material to use. Cost is more important than appearance, and I was thinking of using cinder block construction - but it is also important to be energy efficient. Is there a way to build new masonry walls cheaply while also having modern insulation? I have seen the Insulating Concrete Forms being advertised, but they seem to be some 15 times more expensive than a cinder block. Any help would be appreciated from anyone!
~Bradford
Watching this in 2022 with the channel at almost 1,000,000 subscribers! Didn’t have the outro down yet 😜
Love it!
Limestone is very porous. I always assumed that's why it's not used in construction much because of moisture. I guess this video partially confirms that, but it's good to know how the heat transfers through it especially because I live in Texas where limestone is pretty much everywhere.
Good video.
Can we get a 6 year follow-up video?
Hi Matt,
Watching your awesome show for the last few years! I live in central Utah, temperatures range from 10° in winter to 110° in the summer.!average humidity 15%.
My 2 story house built in 1909 with one layer of fire rated brick and two layers of adobe brick! With that said this house does a terrible job of protecting the occupants from the extremes outside temperatures.
So here’s my question?
Attaching Exterior rigid OW (Owens corning) XPS 2” insulation R-10 value. attaching 1x1 or 2x2 battens with Masonary screws onto the brick (not the mortar!) creating a 3/4” or 1 1/2” air space. then attaching Ridgid foam insulation board like OW 2” XPS. To the above mentioned battens and attaching 1/2x4x8 plywood (not OSB!)
My concern is the extra weight of 45 pounds per each 1/2” x 4x8 plywood (8 sheets on the 20’ wide side 360 Lbs + 2x2 Barton’s + 3/8” shiplap will add to the total structure. essentially sheer walling the brick
My neighbor house was built in 1895 with limestone, he hired a company to install a different rigid foam 2” insulation 10 years ago an added ugly vinyl insulation. In my opinion shiplap would’ve looked much better!
There is no insulation inside the house whatsoever except blown in the attic laying on the ceilings. The previous homeowner installed 2x2 batons interior Adobe walls in the living room with 1/2” drywall with no insulation in between the battens. cosmetic only.
0:35 He is like a mix of Benedict Cumberbatch and Matt Damon put together. :-D
Love the build science you guys do. I wish more construction and remodeling took as much care as you guys do.
So the real question: How are you going to insulate this building (besides the roof) since you can't insulate the preferred outside surface?
+RJParker he might spray some transparent coat on the outside, to vapor proof the wall. I would go for that. With the additions to the roof, it should be more than enough in terms of temperature control.
You don't. There's no practical way to do it. An clear exterior coating is unlikely to work very well for very long. Insulate the roof and focus on air and humidity control
You're better than Holmes on Homes! :P
+Christopher Arksey I agree, and it's not even close. Also Matt is not a narcissistic libtard bossypants closet-gay etc. etc.
Wouldn't insulating from the inside nullify the thermal mass benefit?
Yeah, that's why he said they're not doing it.
Insulating the outside would probably nullify the stone work for most peoples' homes, so that's another reason. Why have a stone house if no one can see it, right?
@@digitalconsciousness Yea the building science has not evolved for solid masonry walls, rather its been evolved around an inferior building product. By them sealing up the roof they creating problems, that vapor has nowhere to escape now and they are going to possibly have condensation/mold problems in the future.
Great Video. How is this not Brent Hull's brother ?
This guy kind of looks like Randy Travis :-)
Dexter!
I see dexter!
I thought we were watching an episode of Dexter for a moment.
I don't see the practicality of doing anything to that house. So what, you have 10-15 degree temperature swings. Your saving by not having to use air conditionioning, then when heating months occur its thermal mass radiates it. Comfort all year round and structurally sound. Your going to mess it up by enclosing the roof! You seal that roof up. How long would that roof have to leak for you to realize its leaking? Would it be too late and cause rotting of the rafters and create a potentially dangerous situation? Also by sealing up the roof you'll probably create interior condensation because it has no where to escape. I'm a firm believer in solid masonry walls and believe the building science has evolved around an inferior product. The only reason we shifted away from solid masonry such as brick is because of the abundance of wood in the US and mass production of nails so it was more economical to use these materials. Today with all the codes and requirements I question the economies of scale and wish the powers at be would actually revert back to SMW's and build the science off that.
You nailed it. Having an inspector see over 4k homes in my area and said the bricks on my 1960's home was the best he'd seen so far. The problem today is that "maintenence free" updates are not actually sustainable because they don't last for 20+ years. The problem is compounded with flippers who have no idea how the design of the home was intended to work. The previous owner did the opposite with mine: They vented western cedar rafters & dovetails that haven't seen the elements in over 50 years. Covered the the home in plastic. They created more problems than they "fixed." There needs to be inspections on "house flipping."
"Diurnal" effect. Refers to night time occurrences.
Did he say "Dynamo Effect" ?? 3:15
No.The closest thing to Dynamo is diurnal effect
Diurnal effect
wranglerstar says hi
Christof looks like John Cena's dad... or John Cena AS a dad...
Wrangler star say hello
Historic ? C`mon.
Nice. This guest said everything in such a way that, if you already knew all the information, you might understand him. For the rest of us, useless.
They didn’t do shit but talk!!!🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦