Have my videos have helped you? why not support the channel in some way You can make a one off/ monthy donation here in only one click: www.buymeacoffee.com/MyRetroWatches If you would like to purchase any tools & equipment then please see my Amazon affiliate & eBay (I do earn a small commission from any sales.) Thank you. Link: Link: myretrowatches.co.uk/tool-sale-links/ If you would like to buy any of my T-Shirts then please look here: teespring.com/stores/my-retro-watches
Agustin Aguilar part 2 will be live soon. The rebuild will be hard to film and I may make mistakes ( as you will also see in part two..) I’m still very new to these movements but figured I’d give it a go
I imagine, for the pros, this is probably day-to-day stuff - but this set of videos gave me the confidence to have a go at [admittedly, very basic] repairs on my Seiko 6139-7100 (which, ordinarily, I'd not have done given, for my modest budget - and even though there's some aftermarket parts on it - it's one of the more expensive watches in my collection). As such, all went well - so many thanks for all your videos, Mike. They're really appreciated.
@@MyRetroWatches The 7100 is undoubtedly a bit of a 'marmite' watch - thankfully, like yourself, I'm a fan. Also, it's popularity (or lack of) means it's one of the few watches with a 6139 movement that's still offers a bit of value, given the prices of some of the other models in the range (notably the, ever popular, Pogue, and the Pulsations) have really shot up this past year or so (in the UK anyway).
Very informative video, helped me take out the movement to get rid of some haze on the back of the Crystal, as well as clean up some gunk off of the crown and pushers. Now I can easily change the day & date, and see my dial clear as day. Thank you!
This video was super helpful in figuring out how to fix the chronograph on my $3 6139-6019 from a local thrift store. It was extremely clean inside, but the chronograph was inoperable and it lost about an hour a day. The chronograph reset was stuck, causing the movement to stop when I tried to activate the chronograph. I was able to get the thing apart and jiggle the piece that the reset button contacts until it came free and started working again. I’ll be referring back here if there’s anything else I need to do to it. Thanks for posting!
@@MyRetroWatches thanks for the reply! It’s been running for about 8 hours now and has only lost 25 seconds, which could be down to a low power reserve (I tried to run it completely down before taking it apart), and/or maybe I have to adjust the regulator. I’m gonna shake it for a while to get the power reserve up, and maybe I can mess with the regulator next
Thank you , I want to learn as much from you as possible. This is my goal 🥅. To be a watchmaker like 👍🏼 Mike. I am retired and 67 yo. Needed a hobby. At it 4 months
Thank you. I am just a hobbyist but perhaps a bit further up the ladder is all. Good luck , you are never too old for a hobby and this one has it all. Big highs and some lows that turn into highs when you solve the problem.
It's great but a bit nerve racking to see my watch being taken apart. The adhesive looks horrible but I guess if it didn't get into things and foul them up, it sort of did its job. Great job Michael!
Watching this whilst rebuilding my 2428 Slava "tv", got a new movement for it so currently dissecting the old one as it was locked solid by the top balance jewel coming out of its socket and jamming the gears. Broke the top balance staff pivot sadly but the gear train survived with no damage to the teeth and the watch is free again. Putting together a rebuild vid and just finished bathing the bits removing 1970's dna and what looks and smells like earwax hehe
Hay just found your channel and fined it so interesting .I have been a Seiko owner since the mid 70's I just found my old sports 100 in a box of junk that had the hardest life as a welder mechanic .I had the watch rebuilt 4 times .Had a dozen bands on it and the pin holes are right wore out it had been retired the last 15 years that it last run .I thought I would put a new battery in an it fired right up so I got looking on line for a new band and found a good complete none runner so it is on the way I will swap out the works and keep it going again #7123-824LR Gold face So I own a lathe and have a tool and die shop at home so my new hobby is to make all the tools to work on my watches .Thanks to you.
Wow nice story and great to see you still have the desire to get this one back up and running. Seikos are very hard to kill so I am not surprised yours fired up again after all that time. Good luck with your tinkering.
I have a 6139 6002 that I bought when I was in the USN and over in Philippines. It just about looks like new, except the two buttons for stop/start and reset are sticking and hard to push, etc.. I popped them out, thanks to your video, and both have springs. Is there a lubrication recommended, or will this require more in-depth service? The watch works fine with the exception of the start/stop reset. I'm hesitant to go from functional to trash can! thanks!
no you dont grease the springs. its working out why they are hard to push. If you remove the springs and then just put the pushers in and try to operate, are they still tight? its making sure the mechanics of what the pushers operate are in order first. Many times I have found the pusher gaskets to have gone really hard which rubs on the tubes they slide in. I have used fine sandpaper on these to reduce them. Or I woulr replace but if you are not used to do that it can be quite an epic task. Ultimately though a watch needs a service just like a car does. if its never been done no oil is left and its all metal on metal which is not good.
@@MyRetroWatches Thanks for the reply. I was thinking more in line with some light oil on the pushers rather than any grease. The start/stop pusher isn't too bad, but the reset pusher will get stuck if pushed. I have to pull back out with tweezers or pliers to release. I noticed the gaskets you mentioned, which look like tiny o-rings. I'll try the sandpaper to smooth out. I have up to 2000grit within reach! Also, are there any critical points I could put a micro-drop of oil without disassembly which would help? I took a couple pictures and thought I could add to the post, but apparently not. Thanks!
JonTheComputerDoctor I did but don’t any more. I borrowed one from a friend to do my 6139s. I will either get one or just set them from a spare case I have.
Why my seiko 6139-7100 stop rotating when i push the 2 buttons many time..i opened it and put little oil on it...what do think sir...is it broken o damage...pls..reply thank you
Nice one Michael, was that calendar wheel bent?. Did you check mechanics under micro?. Since I got my micro I can not believe the information I can get just from viewing through micro, thanks to you. I replaced a battery in my wife's watch, replaced the back with a home made press and broke the glass!!! 😭. Frantic to find replacement, god its cold in the dog house!! 😂😂🐶. Enjoyed video, thanks. Adrian
Bill Pogue went up on Skylab in 1973. Bit controversial. The medicos were pretty unhappy with him because he spewed and didn't tell anyone about it (not that it's easy to keep a secret in those circumstances).
paul smith because I don’t have any good ones. The ones I have are too thick at the ends to get under to pry. When I look at Bergeon or Horotec they have many sizes and I don’t know which I should get. I have a Bergeon presto which works fine on anything else work on. The other vintage tool I used is like levers really. The dial guard was my downfall as it’s too thick. I openly admit I am no expert and you will find that out in part two 😂 If you can advise on levers I’d be interested
I’m only an amateur myself and not as advanced as you Mike, so I’ve learned a lot from your videos. I got a pair of horotec 2.50mm levers off the bay for £25 including delivery and they’re ideal. I’ve pretty much given up on using dial protectors because they’re too fiddly and often too thick, the cheap plaggy bag wins hands down every time.
I have the plastic robot legs type, the flat levers and the round sprung type and despite having to resolder a little tension bar on the round spring type I find they work very well on my Russian pieces, I also polished the flats at the end as they were a bit dial grindy rough, I also sanded and polished the two levers but they are still too thick for most hands :(
Have my videos have helped you? why not support the channel in some way
You can make a one off/ monthy donation here in only one click: www.buymeacoffee.com/MyRetroWatches
If you would like to purchase any tools & equipment then please see my Amazon affiliate & eBay (I do earn a small commission from any sales.) Thank you.
Link: Link: myretrowatches.co.uk/tool-sale-links/
If you would like to buy any of my T-Shirts then please look here: teespring.com/stores/my-retro-watches
Long awaited video Mike, now I'm looking forward for the rest of this series so I can buy and service my own 6139.
Agustin Aguilar part 2 will be live soon.
The rebuild will be hard to film and I may make mistakes ( as you will also see in part two..) I’m still very new to these movements but figured I’d give it a go
I imagine, for the pros, this is probably day-to-day stuff - but this set of videos gave me the confidence to have a go at [admittedly, very basic] repairs on my Seiko 6139-7100 (which, ordinarily, I'd not have done given, for my modest budget - and even though there's some aftermarket parts on it - it's one of the more expensive watches in my collection). As such, all went well - so many thanks for all your videos, Mike. They're really appreciated.
I am glad I can help. the 7100 Helmets are a favourite of mine I have both the black and white versions!
@@MyRetroWatches The 7100 is undoubtedly a bit of a 'marmite' watch - thankfully, like yourself, I'm a fan. Also, it's popularity (or lack of) means it's one of the few watches with a 6139 movement that's still offers a bit of value, given the prices of some of the other models in the range (notably the, ever popular, Pogue, and the Pulsations) have really shot up this past year or so (in the UK anyway).
Very informative video, helped me take out the movement to get rid of some haze on the back of the Crystal, as well as clean up some gunk off of the crown and pushers. Now I can easily change the day & date, and see my dial clear as day. Thank you!
This video was super helpful in figuring out how to fix the chronograph on my $3 6139-6019 from a local thrift store. It was extremely clean inside, but the chronograph was inoperable and it lost about an hour a day. The chronograph reset was stuck, causing the movement to stop when I tried to activate the chronograph. I was able to get the thing apart and jiggle the piece that the reset button contacts until it came free and started working again. I’ll be referring back here if there’s anything else I need to do to it. Thanks for posting!
3$ 6139 is the thing of dreams! Never happens to me.
Pleased you found the video useful , that’s why I make them!
@@MyRetroWatches thanks for the reply! It’s been running for about 8 hours now and has only lost 25 seconds, which could be down to a low power reserve (I tried to run it completely down before taking it apart), and/or maybe I have to adjust the regulator. I’m gonna shake it for a while to get the power reserve up, and maybe I can mess with the regulator next
Thank you , I want to learn as much from you as possible. This is my goal 🥅. To be a watchmaker like 👍🏼 Mike. I am retired and 67 yo. Needed a hobby. At it 4 months
Thank you. I am just a hobbyist but perhaps a bit further up the ladder is all.
Good luck , you are never too old for a hobby and this one has it all. Big highs and some lows that turn into highs when you solve the problem.
@@MyRetroWatches presently small accomplishments give great 👍🏼 highs. I feel better all day ! Thanks for the inspiration
Man, that watch is dirty with a lot of DNA. Like always awesome job on this video.
It's great but a bit nerve racking to see my watch being taken apart. The adhesive looks horrible but I guess if it didn't get into things and foul them up, it sort of did its job. Great job Michael!
I think that is a great bit of video and interesting. Top marks.
jon ohara orchard clock and watch repairs thank you sir
Technical guides and help documents can be found on my site, please click this link and scroll to 6139: myretrowatches.com/reference/movements/
Watching this whilst rebuilding my 2428 Slava "tv", got a new movement for it so currently dissecting the old one as it was locked solid by the top balance jewel coming out of its socket and jamming the gears. Broke the top balance staff pivot sadly but the gear train survived with no damage to the teeth and the watch is free again. Putting together a rebuild vid and just finished bathing the bits removing 1970's dna and what looks and smells like earwax hehe
Hay just found your channel and fined it so interesting .I have been a Seiko owner since the mid 70's
I just found my old sports 100 in a box of junk that had the hardest life as a welder mechanic .I had the
watch rebuilt 4 times .Had a dozen bands on it and the pin holes are right wore out it had been retired the
last 15 years that it last run .I thought I would put a new battery in an it fired right up so I got looking on
line for a new band and found a good complete none runner so it is on the way I will swap out the
works and keep it going again #7123-824LR Gold face So I own a lathe and have a tool and die shop
at home so my new hobby is to make all the tools to work on my watches .Thanks to you.
Wow nice story and great to see you still have the desire to get this one back up and running. Seikos are very hard to kill so I am not surprised yours fired up again after all that time. Good luck with your tinkering.
I have a 6139 6002 that I bought when I was in the USN and over in Philippines. It just about looks like new, except the two buttons for stop/start and reset are sticking and hard to push, etc.. I popped them out, thanks to your video, and both have springs. Is there a lubrication recommended, or will this require more in-depth service? The watch works fine with the exception of the start/stop reset. I'm hesitant to go from functional to trash can! thanks!
no you dont grease the springs. its working out why they are hard to push. If you remove the springs and then just put the pushers in and try to operate, are they still tight? its making sure the mechanics of what the pushers operate are in order first. Many times I have found the pusher gaskets to have gone really hard which rubs on the tubes they slide in. I have used fine sandpaper on these to reduce them. Or I woulr replace but if you are not used to do that it can be quite an epic task.
Ultimately though a watch needs a service just like a car does. if its never been done no oil is left and its all metal on metal which is not good.
@@MyRetroWatches Thanks for the reply. I was thinking more in line with some light oil on the pushers rather than any grease. The start/stop pusher isn't too bad, but the reset pusher will get stuck if pushed. I have to pull back out with tweezers or pliers to release. I noticed the gaskets you mentioned, which look like tiny o-rings. I'll try the sandpaper to smooth out. I have up to 2000grit within reach! Also, are there any critical points I could put a micro-drop of oil without disassembly which would help? I took a couple pictures and thought I could add to the post, but apparently not. Thanks!
What kind of tool do you use to get the back off?
I take it you have the correct movement holder for hand setting?
Chrono hands are keyed on these.
Great video.
JonTheComputerDoctor I did but don’t any more. I borrowed one from a friend to do my 6139s. I will either get one or just set them from a spare case I have.
Hi Michael, please could you tell me where you got the british made watch holder/stand from please?
Garry Cope they are no longer made. It’s a vintage tool. eBay . Pioneer movement holder is your search. They do come up every now and then.
I have Seiko kinetic watch that worked about 4-5 months and it has stopped working altogether is there any thing I can do
amazing as always
what are you views on the seiko 7019a movement
I like the 7019, its like most 7 series only it has an extra jewel plate to bump up the jewel count. If serviced correctly they perform very well.
@@MyRetroWatches thank you
much appreciated
There is dial feet repair tool from Ali express!
Why my seiko 6139-7100 stop rotating when i push the 2 buttons many time..i opened it and put little oil on it...what do think sir...is it broken o damage...pls..reply thank you
can you please describe your problem better so I can understand what the problem might be.
Great video, like always , sir . I would like to ask you, where do you source parts for your movements?
ebay, stock donor watches that I have bought over the years. Also speedtimerkollektion.com/
Nice one Michael, was that calendar wheel bent?. Did you check mechanics under micro?. Since I got my micro I can not believe the information I can get just from viewing through micro, thanks to you. I replaced a battery in my wife's watch, replaced the back with a home made press and broke the glass!!! 😭. Frantic to find replacement, god its cold in the dog house!! 😂😂🐶. Enjoyed video, thanks. Adrian
Adrian Birkett I’ve not inspected closely but all looked fine to me at the time.
on the machine it is marked 6138B. why
Hey pal, I'm looking at getting mine serviced and cleaned would you be interested in doing it????
Bill Pogue went up on Skylab in 1973. Bit controversial. The medicos were pretty unhappy with him because he spewed and didn't tell anyone about it (not that it's easy to keep a secret in those circumstances).
Actually I just looked it up and Pogue was part of the infamous Skylab Mutiny, when the crew switched off all communication with NASA!
Why don’t you just use a pair of levers to remove the hands? It’s much easier than using the presto type tool I find.
paul smith because I don’t have any good ones. The ones I have are too thick at the ends to get under to pry. When I look at Bergeon or Horotec they have many sizes and I don’t know which I should get.
I have a Bergeon presto which works fine on anything else work on. The other vintage tool I used is like levers really. The dial guard was my downfall as it’s too thick.
I openly admit I am no expert and you will find that out in part two 😂
If you can advise on levers I’d be interested
I’m only an amateur myself and not as advanced as you Mike, so I’ve learned a lot from your videos. I got a pair of horotec 2.50mm levers off the bay for £25 including delivery and they’re ideal. I’ve pretty much given up on using dial protectors because they’re too fiddly and often too thick, the cheap plaggy bag wins hands down every time.
paul smith pal, just knowing the 2.5 is a workable size is helpful enough for me so thanks for that
I have the plastic robot legs type, the flat levers and the round sprung type and despite having to resolder a little tension bar on the round spring type I find they work very well on my Russian pieces, I also polished the flats at the end as they were a bit dial grindy rough, I also sanded and polished the two levers but they are still too thick for most hands :(
:)
字幕が邪魔で肝心な映像が見えません
:)