Thanks for the info, I just fixed my ATV 250 as it had bad wiring on the automatic choke of the GY6 carb. As soon as you said the choke works on resistance, I was ohhhh I better check the wire connectors.
@thieving1 it is most likly that the float is sinking or set way off this can be checked by puting the float in a bowl of water if it sinks find the hole and plug it with gas resistant epoxy if it floats then its out of tune there is a tab between the floats this can be adjustedbend it towards the needle to close it more
One of the hoses that goes to nowhere is the overflow tube. If your carb has too much fuel in it it will leak out of that hose. The other one is the drain tube. Screw it open to empty the carb of fuel before disassembly.
Symptoms I experienced before the valve adjustment were that it took forever to get the scooter started, then acted like it lost 1/4 of its power - like it was bogging down. PS if your choke stops working, the engine will run rich (more than likely) but it depends on which position the choke sticks. You can get a manual primer and forget about the automatic choke - there are articles on the web on how to remove and replace the choke.
Before to replace your carburetor check the air filter and it is dirty just replace it. You could check the float valve height too, so you can measure this height with a vernier caliper ( the height measure is 20.5 mm or 3/4 inches)
The carb. hoses helps with the vaccum in the acelerator pumps and the fuels gets in to the carb. because at the outlet of the fuel tank exist a vaccum valve that works just when the engine runs. If you have any air leaks in the carburetor your engine it won`t start . To fix this problem just retight the intake manifold and the other air hoses. If ypu speak spanish I try to explain much better I hope it helps
I´m working on one of my private scooters and have a "lingben 50cc eu" scooter that i couldn´t get started and it took a damn long time to go through everything on it and the last thing i checked up was the choke on the carb.I totaly agree that they are bad things and can fail easily.I have hooked it up directly too the battery so now it gets 12v DC instead of AC wich is the currency it gets original and the choke works awesome.You can adjust the choke by disasembling it and adjust it tho.
@chrilla1980 Forgot also to mention that you can measure that choke and it´s around 7ohms resistance if it´s not defective in any way.You can also put 12volt dc and see how far out the needle goes after around 5minutes too see that the length is correct of the needle pushing out and if you have to adjust it.
the current flowing to the choke is not resisted. its like 10 or 12 volts and takes about 2-5mins to heat up completely. in the mean time, your carb is being "choked". after the needle is fully extended into the carb it will limited gas flow and idle better.
the hose you're referring to go to the top of the head and whenever you start rubbing on your engine it's going to suck harder which meeting you get more top-end middle throttle to Full Throttle and it's going to suck the needle out of the main jet instead of it sitting in there and the pilot taking over if that makes sense
i had about 1500 miles on it and replaced it with a new carb... turned out it wasn't the carb at all but a valve adjustment instead. I posted that video, but left this one up there since nobody explained the gy6 carb hoses. I thought it might be useful. I T'ed off the other hoses to an overflow exit hose
Mine is identical to yours and those holes you don't no shit about are for vacuum lines that run to your fuel tank vacuum tap! The hole left of the auto choke is a breather. The only "breather" there.
@mattYoung17754 does it need the autochoke hooked up to work? i had my quad running without it but its not very good i cut all the wiring except the spark plugs circut (if you need the wiring diagram leave me a message) but i can wire the choke back in but only if it needs it to run
Alright, I am in dire need of help. My scooter won't start unless I spray starting fluid into it. We've done a ton of testing and it seems like air is being sucked into the metal piece that connects the automatic choke to the carburator. There looks to be a small gasket missing. I am desperately searching for the name of the piece that the automatic choke slides into (I can see it at 3:59 in your video) and I'm wondering if you know the name of the metal piece or of the gasket on the inside?
@mattYoung17754 this is probably goin to sound stupid but i bought a 50 cc scooter and want to get it a bit higher for now until i swap the engines 4 a 150cc can i put a bigger carb (lets say this one ) on the 50cc or will i blow it up so to speak
@londonjig Your comment here was a year ago but it could be the auto choke has ribrated loose or off and caused your problem. How many miles was on it?
i just got a Lance 150cc scooter. It starts up and runs fine, but when i stop the scooter, engine cuts off. In other words, it cuts off at idle. Is this a carberator problem?
@liltuckk THanks so much. I took it to a mechanic and he fixed it. He cleaned the carbeurator and air intake out. It was working fine, but now when I drive at full throttle, the engine sometimes boggs down and will cut off unless i release the throttle. Is this a screw setting problem u think??
full throttle bogging down? Main jet a bit too large. Do you get max power and speed at about 3/4 of throttle, and with full, it bogs down slightly? that's you're main jet. Too much gas, not enough oxygen ratio. I actually don't want to change it on my old Puch moped, because at 3/4 throttle I can go 53 km/h while the official limit is 45 km/h in my country. So when a cop puts it on his testbed (and they have done that) they crank the throttle wide open and it only goes 44-46 km/h. Nice.
You said the barb on the bottom goes to no where. Yours had 2,On my 150cc Carb there is 1 barb and also a screw with an o ring. My question is does any gas come out of those barbs or screw and if so should the be routed somewhere? The o ring on mine is shot so i wasn't sure if I could just tighten the screw and be fine? Any help would be appreciated.
Hey everyone, I have a question. I got a 150cc gy6 . I swab the "3700"miles engine for a 500 miles motor. There is a problem when I try to start it. It wont start unless I keep try hitting the starter for around 2 minutes. Also, It will not start with no throttle application, only when I open the throttle around 1/16th it starts....Also, when it does starts, it feels very bogged.....Is this a carb adjustment issue? I don't think I need valve adjustment because the motor only have 500miles on it
Get a new spark plug and adjust your carb. Oh, and just because the engine only has 500 miles on it doesn't mean it's valves are properly adjusted. Get a workshop manual for the GY6 range of scooters
Basically just plug the canal..remove the electric choke and plug the hole. Mind you, starting it in winter is going to be a bitch. You can test the automatic (electric choke) by putting 12 volt through it, either form a set of batteries, a car battery or a lab power supply ( like I did).. connect it to 12 volt, and in about 5 minutes you will see the needle move out to about half a centimeter more. Since you really can't see the movement unless you gaze at it for 5 full minutes, a lot of people tend to think it's broken. If you test it like this detached from anything else, and otherwise it doesn't work, somewhere upstream you have an electrical fault. Try starting your engine and letting it run for five minutes. Then stop it, and unscrew your choke..if it's not extended (and you can easily see it because it will be visible from the choke body) and you tested your choke before then you have bad wiring or parts upstream. HTH
Alternatively, keep the electric choke in there but put some c-clips on it while it's extended. Unless they break, that will keep it extended, and plug the choke canal. It's actually not a choke, but an enricher.
Difference is, chokes deprive the engine from airflow, and enrichers aid more fuel. Effect is the same, more fuel/less air ratio going into the engine, the way in which they do it is different.
Hi, I am from Philippines. How to adjust an Automatic Choke or Enricher in a GY6 Carburetor? Mine has this issue: The Auto Choke turns off prematurely or in an early stage of where the engine is not that hot yet for stable idling, thus engine turns off. I tried cleaning the GY6 Carburetor hoping it was just caused by dirty system but same result, the Pin inside the Automatic Choke/Enricher extends prematurely/in an early stage even if the engine is not that hot yet resulting to stall. It my Automatic Choke or Enricher damaged? This is exactly how the Carb with the Auto Choke or Enricher looks like (Same with your video): i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh302/turbostang331/150carb1.jpg Please guys, I need your help...
Chipmunkski Test the resistance of the wires. They should be around 10 ohms, I believe. If the auto choke (also called a bystarter) is bad, simply replace it. You can get them fairly cheaply on eBay. You can get an entire carb, including a bystarter for not much more.
![[Live] : ONE 168 วันนี้!! "โจนาธาน vs ซุปเปอร์เล็ก"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0jIN65KgJsI/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the video, helped me understand which connections are inlet and outlets :)
Thanks for the info, I just fixed my ATV 250 as it had bad wiring on the automatic choke of the GY6 carb. As soon as you said the choke works on resistance, I was ohhhh I better check the wire connectors.
The vent hoses you are referring to are vacuum lines and work the fuel pump and carburetor auxiliary pump.
@thieving1 it is most likly that the float is sinking or set way off this can be checked by puting the float in a bowl of water if it sinks find the hole and plug it with gas resistant epoxy if it floats then its out of tune there is a tab between the floats this can be adjustedbend it towards the needle to close it more
One of the hoses that goes to nowhere is the overflow tube. If your carb has too much fuel in it it will leak out of that hose.
The other one is the drain tube. Screw it open to empty the carb of fuel before disassembly.
Symptoms I experienced before the valve adjustment were that it took forever to get the scooter started, then acted like it lost 1/4 of its power - like it was bogging down. PS if your choke stops working, the engine will run rich (more than likely) but it depends on which position the choke sticks. You can get a manual primer and forget about the automatic choke - there are articles on the web on how to remove and replace the choke.
Before to replace your carburetor check the air filter and it is dirty just replace it. You could check the float valve height too, so you can measure this height with a vernier caliper ( the height measure is 20.5 mm or 3/4 inches)
The carb. hoses helps with the vaccum in the acelerator pumps and the fuels gets in to the carb. because at the outlet of the fuel tank exist a vaccum valve that works just when the engine runs. If you have any air leaks in the carburetor your engine it won`t start . To fix this problem just retight the intake manifold and the other air hoses.
If ypu speak spanish I try to explain much better
I hope it helps
I´m working on one of my private scooters and have a "lingben 50cc eu" scooter that i couldn´t get started and it took a damn long time to go through everything on it and the last thing i checked up was the choke on the carb.I totaly agree that they are bad things and can fail easily.I have hooked it up directly too the battery so now it gets 12v DC instead of AC wich is the currency it gets original and the choke works awesome.You can adjust the choke by disasembling it and adjust it tho.
@chrilla1980 Forgot also to mention that you can measure that choke and it´s around 7ohms resistance if it´s not defective in any way.You can also put 12volt dc and see how far out the needle goes after around 5minutes too see that the length is correct of the needle pushing out and if you have to adjust it.
do you need to apply power to the choke to keep the choke open?
@londonjig theres a screw you can adjust for the speed of rpm during idle, that should be whats wrong
the current flowing to the choke is not resisted. its like 10 or 12 volts and takes about 2-5mins to heat up completely. in the mean time, your carb is being "choked". after the needle is fully extended into the carb it will limited gas flow and idle better.
the hose you're referring to go to the top of the head and whenever you start rubbing on your engine it's going to suck harder which meeting you get more top-end middle throttle to Full Throttle and it's going to suck the needle out of the main jet instead of it sitting in there and the pilot taking over if that makes sense
Thanks! This is so useful for me.
Nice
th-cam.com/video/vnjRNz81MFs/w-d-xo.html
@londonjig hmm i dont think so, it should either be because you are at very low gas, or its the engine or carburetor problem
When autoshoke fails the engine runs like a loss power mode, this means irregular ways alternating rpms
i had about 1500 miles on it and replaced it with a new carb... turned out it wasn't the carb at all but a valve adjustment instead. I posted that video, but left this one up there since nobody explained the gy6 carb hoses. I thought it might be useful. I T'ed off the other hoses to an overflow exit hose
If you remove the screw, and the end is beveled and seats in the bowl, sealing off the port, then you should be fine. If it leaks, replace the O-ring.
unless your carb is dropped or broken, you should never have to replace. they are so easy to clean. $50. bucks is fifty bucks.
thanks this should me lots
Mine is identical to yours and those holes you don't no shit about are for vacuum lines that run to your fuel tank vacuum tap! The hole left of the auto choke is a breather. The only "breather" there.
@mattYoung17754 does it need the autochoke hooked up to work? i had my quad running without it but its not very good i cut all the wiring except the spark plugs circut (if you need the wiring diagram leave me a message) but i can wire the choke back in but only if it needs it to run
Alright, I am in dire need of help. My scooter won't start unless I spray starting fluid into it. We've done a ton of testing and it seems like air is being sucked into the metal piece that connects the automatic choke to the carburator. There looks to be a small gasket missing. I am desperately searching for the name of the piece that the automatic choke slides into (I can see it at 3:59 in your video) and I'm wondering if you know the name of the metal piece or of the gasket on the inside?
How would a GY6 150cc engine perform, if the auto choke literally fell off from road vibration?
What were the symptoms that you were experiencing prior to valve adjustment.
Thanks
dude there was two plugs on the bottom. one drain and what was the other one next to it? you just skipped it!
@mattYoung17754 this is probably goin to sound stupid but i bought a 50 cc scooter and want to get it a bit higher for now until i swap the engines 4 a 150cc can i put a bigger carb (lets say this one ) on the 50cc or will i blow it up so to speak
@londonjig Your comment here was a year ago but it could be the auto choke has ribrated loose or off and caused your problem. How many miles was on it?
Hooverdarnit mine has took a shit
The excessive valve noise or rocket arm moves
i just bought a new carb but i noticed the manifold vacuum nipple was closed off no hole what so ever what does this mean?
i just got a Lance 150cc scooter. It starts up and runs fine, but when i stop the scooter, engine cuts off. In other words, it cuts off at idle. Is this a carberator problem?
@liltuckk THanks so much. I took it to a mechanic and he fixed it. He cleaned the carbeurator and air intake out. It was working fine, but now when I drive at full throttle, the engine sometimes boggs down and will cut off unless i release the throttle. Is this a screw setting problem u think??
full throttle bogging down? Main jet a bit too large. Do you get max power and speed at about 3/4 of throttle, and with full, it bogs down slightly? that's you're main jet. Too much gas, not enough oxygen ratio. I actually don't want to change it on my old Puch moped, because at 3/4 throttle I can go 53 km/h while the official limit is 45 km/h in my country. So when a cop puts it on his testbed (and they have done that) they crank the throttle wide open and it only goes 44-46 km/h. Nice.
QUESTION..I HAVE A 2006 VENTO R4i DOES THE GY6 HAVE THE SAME CARBURETOR AS MINE/
do you know why there are two drain lines in this?
WERE DOES THE CHOKE PLUG IN TO
can some one please tell me were all the hoses go from the carb to the engine
I need help!!! I have a GMW 150cc and it will not Start.
where does the choke plug in to?
You said the barb on the bottom goes to no where. Yours had 2,On my 150cc Carb there is 1 barb and also a screw with an o ring. My question is does any gas come out of those barbs or screw and if so should the be routed somewhere? The o ring on mine is shot so i wasn't sure if I could just tighten the screw and be fine? Any help would be appreciated.
Hey everyone, I have a question. I got a 150cc gy6 . I swab the "3700"miles engine for a 500 miles motor. There is a problem when I try to start it. It wont start unless I keep try hitting the starter for around 2 minutes. Also, It will not start with no throttle application, only when I open the throttle around 1/16th it starts....Also, when it does starts, it feels very bogged.....Is this a carb adjustment issue? I don't think I need valve adjustment because the motor only have 500miles on it
Get a new spark plug and adjust your carb. Oh, and just because the engine only has 500 miles on it doesn't mean it's valves are properly adjusted. Get a workshop manual for the GY6 range of scooters
my scooter all of a sudden stop taking off fast also it wont go pass 28 miles no matter what. what u think is wrong
Can i set that carb on GY6 50CC . ?
where does the hose from valve cover go
+thomas fenner did you ever find out an answer?
What Was Wrong With Yours?
how can i permanently disable the automatic choke?
Basically just plug the canal..remove the electric choke and plug the hole. Mind you, starting it in winter is going to be a bitch. You can test the automatic (electric choke) by putting 12 volt through it, either form a set of batteries, a car battery or a lab power supply ( like I did).. connect it to 12 volt, and in about 5 minutes you will see the needle move out to about half a centimeter more. Since you really can't see the movement unless you gaze at it for 5 full minutes, a lot of people tend to think it's broken. If you test it like this detached from anything else, and otherwise it doesn't work, somewhere upstream you have an electrical fault. Try starting your engine and letting it run for five minutes. Then stop it, and unscrew your choke..if it's not extended (and you can easily see it because it will be visible from the choke body) and you tested your choke before then you have bad wiring or parts upstream. HTH
Alternatively, keep the electric choke in there but put some c-clips on it while it's extended. Unless they break, that will keep it extended, and plug the choke canal. It's actually not a choke, but an enricher.
Difference is, chokes deprive the engine from airflow, and enrichers aid more fuel. Effect is the same, more fuel/less air ratio going into the engine, the way in which they do it is different.
Hi, I am from Philippines. How to adjust an Automatic Choke or Enricher in a GY6 Carburetor? Mine has this issue: The Auto Choke turns off prematurely or in an early stage of where the engine is not that hot yet for stable idling, thus engine turns off. I tried cleaning the GY6 Carburetor hoping it was just caused by dirty system but same result, the Pin inside the Automatic Choke/Enricher extends prematurely/in an early stage even if the engine is not that hot yet resulting to stall.
It my Automatic Choke or Enricher damaged?
This is exactly how the Carb with the Auto Choke or Enricher looks like (Same with your video): i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh302/turbostang331/150carb1.jpg
Please guys, I need your help...
Chipmunkski Test the resistance of the wires. They should be around 10 ohms, I believe. If the auto choke (also called a bystarter) is bad, simply replace it. You can get them fairly cheaply on eBay. You can get an entire carb, including a bystarter for not much more.
revving not rubbing LOL
DUDE, YOU WERE NO HELP. WASTE OF MY TIME