66 year old western faller here. I put my full back cut in first on a small leaner like this one, drive a 7 1/2" K+H wedge tight and then carefully (making sure I don't cut through my holding wood) put in my undercut. Finish by continuing to drive the wedge. I like your technique in that the wedge can be driven past the plane of the holding wood whereas the way I do it the wedge bottoms out against the hinge if there's not enough lift to put the tree past center. You can too teach an old dog new tricks!
@@indigatorveritatis7343 If you put your wedge in the backcut before making your face cut and drive the wedge tight, it shouldn't go over backwards provided you don't cut your holding wood off while making your undercut. However, if your wedge bottoms out against your hinge wood before it's over center, the tree won't fall "forward" either. The term for this condition is "screwed". At this point, driving a wedge in from the side parallel to the holding wood will sometimes work if it creates enough lift to put the tree over center AND you can get your initial wedge out of the back cut. I've never had any luck doubling up 7 1/2" K+H wedges plus I only carry one in my wedge pouch. 7 1/2" K+H wedges don't double up very well with anything that I have found. The technique in this video could quite possibly replace everything I just wrote if done properly. And holding wood on most species of trees is really quite strong. I have found it extremely rare to have a tree go over backwards while the correct amount of holding wood is still in place. Cutting it off (oops) is another story. LOL If a tree is leaning back TOO hard, one would need more than a saw, an axe and some wedges.
@@loghog4392 Understood. I guess it depends - as you mentioned - on the amount of lean. I definitely see the advantage of not hitting the hinge and driving through the center for maximum lift... certainly over wedging in from the sides. I'll give this technique a try sometime. Thank you, sir.
I love these comments. I am a noob at this and have felled just a few trees over the years. But it's always nice to see someone explain another technique, give both an evaluation and conclude that there is value to the technique in the video. Cheers for open mindedness
Why would you say that? He's probably just trying to play it safely, with a little added security with the rope up in the top, for added leverage? Especially if it has a slight back lean? Or perhaps possibly the limbs are tightened up with the other trees? And he doesn't have to fight it coming down?
Hook up tractor and pull. If you don’t have tractor, then use wench tied off to a stump a safe distance away. Never get under it as that is why they are called “widow makers”.
This is a good technique, I love using different methods of felling trees? Especially if you have a lot of room, and you have free-reign to do anything you want to? Personally I like the beveled cut technique to fold the tree over, and your not relying on the hinge wood, to pull the tree during wedging? Because some tree fibers react differently than others during different times of the year? In the wet season and there's a lot of rain, it seems like fibers loosen up to accept the water more than other trees making them flex more easily during the felling of the tree? But yet almost seem to have a stronger hold? This is just something I noticed during the 40 plus years of climbing and felling trees. There are a lot more techniques an experienced cutter learns over time? And I like the cut this guy was using in video? And I have used it before. It just gives the wedge a place to go during the wedging process? And it can sometimes give you a faster lift? It's common sense really? Because the small tree doesn't have enough diameter to follow through with the wedge behind, the bar and chain? Thanks for the videos and be safe out there. God bless you guys and have a great day!
usually when these videos come up someone is doing something absolutely dumb. BUT THIS, seems like a solid method when felling against the lean on small diameter. I will definitely try this one out up north.
I love this videos, with people constantly using wedges, to 'push' the trees, from the base! Anyone ever heard of a come-along, to pull the tree, with leverage?
Wedges are faster, easier to carry around with you, don't require climbing or throwing a rope to a high part of the tree, and don't require an anchor point. Pulling with a line has its place, but for 99% of jobs, wedges are the better solution.
These days, I only put wedges in to stop the tree from potentially sitting down on the backcut. I use lines for any movement needed. It is often much less effort. With a tree this size, I use the maasdam rope puller. You can just pull the rope tight by hand and then a couple cranks gets the job done. Hard hammering is rough on your joints and tendons over time.
25 year arborist speaking, I would suggest not calling this the "best" for control as there are a lot of inexperience viewers. The best control in my experience would be to simply put a line in the canopy with a traditional notch and back cut. Wedge only felling are fine but consider them best used for lower risk situations. Good quality video.
@@richardhessing1283 what the fuck would you know "Richard"? Never cut a tree a day in your life and until you do I still won't respect you. Nance to a man.
Yeah, how you described is how it is normally done. Their cut seems very odd to me. But a lot of things are different and even odd with these guys. But I still watch. Not sure why. I guess it’s my natural nature to be mean. But their did is way freaking cool!
Ah good job! I was expecting you to finish cutting with one hand using the saw & the other hand-arm hitting in that wedge! But I quess it’s about safety.
I could see how this could go very wrong .. But if you’ve got a heavy lean that will get a lot of people stuck in a bad situation.. Very cool trick though !
In BC's manual for actual fallers the method you're supposed to use is backcut first wedge in pound it to where it's close to level and then do a facecut. It is definitely simpler and works well in trees bigger than this one but for stuff this size and smaller it can be pretty greasy trying to get a wedge in and not have your bar get pinched, just no room there. What I've been shown in the bush is similar, has a billion different names. Shallow face, come in perpendicular on the backcut, low side almost like your cutting an oversize and getting the far post cut up, wedge in then cut juuust below the wedge to finish off the high side, little more efficient and easier to actually get lift on a wedge with a fully cut up side than what's shown here. However I can definitely see doing this in the future if I have to get something to go against AND across a lean and had no pushers, seems like it'd have some more staying power in that case
Neither have i im gonna do 2 more the normal way pretty soon when i get my other 2 jobs done then i can do the trees im gonna use a rope on one though because its right next to the person's neighbors shed and house i have one drop spot for it And the other needs some top thinned out first cause im gonna make it weigh more on one side than the other so the weights gonna help it go were it needs to. This is were most other normal people mess up by not doing it this way and going right at it cutting the tree then they have problems
How often does the average person cut into one of those wedges. My guess is, I’d beat the record 😂 Great stuff, always love seeing how easy you make this
That can got terribly wrong ...this technique ist safer ...Here in Germany we do it even diffrent But the Harth plungecut ist known Here to ...WE use IT to Cut big trees with Out shorter Bars (18-24 inches ist the biggest Used Here in Germany Overall )
@@bjorn-e.t.6198 if a tree is leaning back and you put the face in first, it will lean back more and pinch the saw when you make the back cut. So make the back cut first, put wedges in, and then make the face cut.
You can’t do back cut first far enough without pinching bar, or deep enough without pinching to make it worth hammering the wedge in the back. This way appears to be far superior
Use caution when cutting with the tip of the chainsaw! Great in the hands of a pro, but dangerous for people who are new to kickback and other dangers. Experts only!
You can absolutely use this method to point a little tree into any direction you want. Used this method many times. A wedge is your best friend!
Just learnt this one in my course the other day
I like pull ropes
No wedges? GO HOME.
@@senseiborwick5259CABLE
Yes indeed but why cut in the middle makes zero sense and more work. Just cut on the other side of wedge and you're good no point to damage the chain
Learned this cut from you and have used it with great success many times. Thanks for the great videos!!
same man! I learned this from his as well. Use it every chance I get !
66 year old western faller here. I put my full back cut in first on a small leaner like this one, drive a 7 1/2" K+H wedge tight and then carefully (making sure I don't cut through my holding wood) put in my undercut. Finish by continuing to drive the wedge.
I like your technique in that the wedge can be driven past the plane of the holding wood whereas the way I do it the wedge bottoms out against the hinge if there's not enough lift to put the tree past center.
You can too teach an old dog new tricks!
Doesn't it depend on how much lean you have, though? If it's a heavy leaner, could the face cut make it fall backwards before you set your wedge?
@@indigatorveritatis7343 If you put your wedge in the backcut before making your face cut and drive the wedge tight, it shouldn't go over backwards provided you don't cut your holding wood off while making your undercut. However, if your wedge bottoms out against your hinge wood before it's over center, the tree won't fall "forward" either. The term for this condition is "screwed". At this point, driving a wedge in from the side parallel to the holding wood will sometimes work if it creates enough lift to put the tree over center AND you can get your initial wedge out of the back cut. I've never had any luck doubling up 7 1/2" K+H wedges plus I only carry one in my wedge pouch. 7 1/2" K+H wedges don't double up very well with anything that I have found.
The technique in this video could quite possibly replace everything I just wrote if done properly.
And holding wood on most species of trees is really quite strong. I have found it extremely rare to have a tree go over backwards while the correct amount of holding wood is still in place. Cutting it off (oops) is another story. LOL
If a tree is leaning back TOO hard, one would need more than a saw, an axe and some wedges.
@@loghog4392 Understood. I guess it depends - as you mentioned - on the amount of lean. I definitely see the advantage of not hitting the hinge and driving through the center for maximum lift... certainly over wedging in from the sides. I'll give this technique a try sometime. Thank you, sir.
I love these comments. I am a noob at this and have felled just a few trees over the years. But it's always nice to see someone explain another technique, give both an evaluation and conclude that there is value to the technique in the video. Cheers for open mindedness
This Gentleman is a great instructor & Professional Arborist.
Thank you! I couldn't figure out how to stop the tree from sitting on the bar, this solves that.
sounds like you better watch your step be safe
Currently a sawyer working a season and your videos are great, I've practiced some of your techniques on the field
Nicely done. I’ll have to add this to my bag of tricks for small trees. 👍🏼
Thanks for the advice. I've learned how to drop trees from you, bro.. seriously.
Yes line in the top with a little pull is the safest way but this is also a great method
you sound a little green
Why would you say that? He's probably just trying to play it safely, with a little added security with the rope up in the top, for added leverage? Especially if it has a slight back lean? Or perhaps possibly the limbs are tightened up with the other trees? And he doesn't have to fight it coming down?
Awesome video. Can you do a part 2 on how you get the leaner off the stump. I hate when that happens especially at high angles
Agree. That part always gets me too
Hook up tractor and pull. If you don’t have tractor, then use wench tied off to a stump a safe distance away. Never get under it as that is why they are called “widow makers”.
Under cut.
This is a good technique, I love using different methods of felling trees?
Especially if you have a lot of room, and you have free-reign to do anything you want to? Personally I like the beveled cut technique to fold the tree over, and your not relying on the hinge wood, to pull the tree during wedging? Because some tree fibers react differently than others during different times of the year? In the wet season and there's a lot of rain, it seems like fibers loosen up to accept the water more than other trees making them flex more easily during the felling of the tree? But yet almost seem to have a stronger hold? This is just something I noticed during the 40 plus years of climbing and felling trees. There are a lot more techniques an experienced cutter learns over time? And I like the cut this guy was using in video? And I have used it before. It just gives the wedge a place to go during the wedging process? And it can sometimes give you a faster lift? It's common sense really? Because the small tree doesn't have enough diameter to follow through with the wedge behind, the bar and chain? Thanks for the videos and be safe out there. God bless you guys and have a great day!
理にかなった切り方ですね👍
Sum ting wong
Curious as to why you fell it into other threes.
I'd like to see a video of you getting it down
Good one Casey!
usually when these videos come up someone is doing something absolutely dumb. BUT THIS, seems like a solid method when felling against the lean on small diameter. I will definitely try this one out up north.
Is that a good bar ? I’ve been looking at getting something lighter
Cottonwood trees are good for doing these practice techniques?
I'll try this cut soon!! Thanks for your great videos
Didn't look like much in the beginning but that's a sweet trick. You definitely made that look easy
I'm learning so much. Thank you.
Браво, мастер!
I love this videos, with people constantly using wedges, to 'push' the trees, from the base! Anyone ever heard of a come-along, to pull the tree, with leverage?
Wedges are faster, easier to carry around with you, don't require climbing or throwing a rope to a high part of the tree, and don't require an anchor point.
Pulling with a line has its place, but for 99% of jobs, wedges are the better solution.
These days, I only put wedges in to stop the tree from potentially sitting down on the backcut. I use lines for any movement needed. It is often much less effort. With a tree this size, I use the maasdam rope puller. You can just pull the rope tight by hand and then a couple cranks gets the job done. Hard hammering is rough on your joints and tendons over time.
trees this size i usually don’t pound on , you are correct, after 44years of climbing my joints need all the love they can get lol
Love my Maasdam for exactly this. I probably use it for progress capture more than actual winching.
25 year arborist speaking, I would suggest not calling this the "best" for control as there are a lot of inexperience viewers. The best control in my experience would be to simply put a line in the canopy with a traditional notch and back cut. Wedge only felling are fine but consider them best used for lower risk situations. Good quality video.
Yessir lol just said this before I read your comment. Good luck out there brother! From a young saw to an ol' one.
Not to forget windy conditions , in which a wedge wouldn't hold (mostly). Yes, put a line in it.
Not the best? Its terrible😅😅😅😅😅😅😅 what a joke
@@richardhessing1283 what the fuck would you know "Richard"? Never cut a tree a day in your life and until you do I still won't respect you. Nance to a man.
@@richardhessing1283 humble yourself bro
The green shirt matching the green wedge and using small sledge hammer worked well.
Neat! Another technique to work on and add to my list
Nice! Great tip! I'm gonna try this.
That was pretty good !
Great informative video. Thank you for sharing!
I learned to do a small back cut before the cutting the notch
Yeah, how you described is how it is normally done. Their cut seems very odd to me. But a lot of things are different and even odd with these guys.
But I still watch. Not sure why. I guess it’s my natural nature to be mean.
But their did is way freaking cool!
@@JamesM-l5gwtf
Thanks for the video. 🙂
Remember that God loves you!
Thats awesome ❤
Didn't even look real it was so clean, great video bro
great for when the tree wouldn't have enough room for a wedge with a back cut, ty
Cool, I had never thought of that, thanks for the info. I’m going to use that technique in the future.
If a tree has good enough hinge wood to cut a 3rd of it completely out the middle then its in good shape for a simple notch and backcut right?
Legit brother 👍
Ah good job! I was expecting you to finish cutting with one hand using the saw & the other hand-arm hitting in that wedge! But I quess it’s about safety.
I been loggin most my life and don’t use wedges hardly at all but good idea
anyone who's been logging most of their lives and never use a wedge sounds to me like someone who has not been working most of their lives
@@Mike-x9h5f I own a tree service brother lol and I didn’t say never used a wedge if you can read properly…
@@Mike-x9h5fmost of the time, wedges aren’t necessary
What's the reason for not cutting the wedge slit from the back? That way your hinge stays intact. Or was there not enough length for the wedge?
Gostei dessa é diferete 👍👍
Excellent!
Looks like a lot of work for such a small tree.
Nice easy safe technique
This is a huge tree! I would of pulled the 881 with a 47” bar out for this one
Thank you!
Really neat one to have in the bag!
Well done.
But I bet you go through a lot of wedges? When using this technique? But watch out for kick-backs?
…or use a coos bay for head leaners?
Nice one
How do you like that light 04 bar?
Are you in the new Stihl advert?
I could see how this could go very wrong .. But if you’ve got a heavy lean that will get a lot of people stuck in a bad situation..
Very cool trick though !
In BC's manual for actual fallers the method you're supposed to use is backcut first wedge in pound it to where it's close to level and then do a facecut. It is definitely simpler and works well in trees bigger than this one but for stuff this size and smaller it can be pretty greasy trying to get a wedge in and not have your bar get pinched, just no room there. What I've been shown in the bush is similar, has a billion different names. Shallow face, come in perpendicular on the backcut, low side almost like your cutting an oversize and getting the far post cut up, wedge in then cut juuust below the wedge to finish off the high side, little more efficient and easier to actually get lift on a wedge with a fully cut up side than what's shown here. However I can definitely see doing this in the future if I have to get something to go against AND across a lean and had no pushers, seems like it'd have some more staying power in that case
Nice " how you like that light 04" bar makes a big difference on that saw don't it my friend "
Nice job!
Thank you
Back cut first not good enough? That looks like a lot more work
Yea... But green plastic sawdust is so pretty..
Liked and subscribed! How would you cut down a large palm tree. It seems like there is no life to it. Thanks a lot. 🙏
Why not do it the normal way (wedge cut in front and normal cut in back)? I've never had a problem with it.
It has a heavy back lean…surprised he was able to wedge it over against the lean…good job
Neither have i im gonna do 2 more the normal way pretty soon when i get my other 2 jobs done then i can do the trees im gonna use a rope on one though because its right next to the person's neighbors shed and house i have one drop spot for it
And the other needs some top thinned out first cause im gonna make it weigh more on one side than the other so the weights gonna help it go were it needs to.
This is were most other normal people mess up by not doing it this way and going right at it cutting the tree then they have problems
How often does the average person cut into one of those wedges. My guess is, I’d beat the record 😂
Great stuff, always love seeing how easy you make this
Good one.
What saw are you using?
Stihl 500i
Very nice .
What did it get hung up on?
Ever do it back cut first for back leaners?
That can got terribly wrong ...this technique ist safer ...Here in Germany we do it even diffrent But the Harth plungecut ist known Here to ...WE use IT to Cut big trees with Out shorter Bars (18-24 inches ist the biggest Used Here in Germany Overall )
@@bjorn-e.t.6198 if a tree is leaning back and you put the face in first, it will lean back more and pinch the saw when you make the back cut. So make the back cut first, put wedges in, and then make the face cut.
I do it all the time, haven't smashed nothing yet. Back cut first easier and faster
You can’t do back cut first far enough without pinching bar, or deep enough without pinching to make it worth hammering the wedge in the back. This way appears to be far superior
awesome vid, thanks man means a lot for you to share your skill
He made that look easy
Nice!
My favorite part is the pitch changing every time you hit the wedge.
Amazing
Neat, thanks for sharing.
Гарно профі! ✌️🇺🇦🔱🔥🌻
Make a video where you explain a technique to avoid barber chair for heavy lean beech trees
Use caution when cutting with the tip of the chainsaw! Great in the hands of a pro, but dangerous for people who are new to kickback and other dangers. Experts only!
Plunge cut!
Awesome
僕も植木屋です。
海外の植木屋は規模がデカくて勉強になります。そんな事より画面に映っている人は絶対に実の兄がいますよね
Сибирь. Вальщик больше 10 лет. Мужик ты огонь 🔥. Не всем дано.
Do the 1 on the fence like u started
I see your back cut is just slightly below where your wedge is makes sense.
Seems like the advantage to this technique is that the plunge cut weakens the hinge, so it is a little easier to send it with the wedge
plunge cut is to stop it from Barber chairing
Great videos! Keep them coming
Impressive!
Hi, are you running ⅜ chain or .325 on that light 04 bar?
DO YOU LIKE THOSE ALUMINIUM BLADES???
Are you the guy from build a soils brother
What bramd wedges are you using?
Thank you sir. I’ve always struggled with smaller timber
looks like you hit every tree in sight and got hung up in the process
😂😂 and the tree fall off a building😂😂 what a technic bro.
Nice bore cut bro, but what amazed me was not hitting your wedge. I would work with you in the freezing rain my man.
That holding wood 💪🫡
good
Nice
This is really cool. Great video. But why do people use this technique 🤔
Simple question from a simple dude😂, what are your wedges made from ? Wood, plastic? 🤷🏻♂️
Plastic 😎
What's up Beav
Is it me, or is that blade autographed?
it’s the design of that specific bar 😂
This is 325 on ms 500i ?
500i