I lived in a 4 bedroom house until my mom passed away 3 yrs ago and moved to the town 53 mile from where we lived. I now live in a 2 bedroom apt. In senior community. I rarely have visitors so I figured I would not need a living room anymore. So I turned it into my craft room. I'm a seamstress. I'm also a trained cobbler. I did a 5 yrs apprenticeship under a long time cobbler in a small East Texas town. I make shoes and boots. Mostly repair work of leather goods. I had a barn in the small rural town we live outside of and had lots of room. I don't have this luxury anymore, so I had to be creative to get everything to fit in a 12x16 area. I quickly found out I had to work Quigley to. So no hammering late at night. I though of an arbor press and realized I left a 5 ton press in the barn I once used. My sister took the press 65 mile away so getting that press was out of the question so I bought. 1 ton press on Amazon. It had a 3/8 hole in the ram already and a Allen screw. I was a set. I did like you, I cleaned it up. Since have a singer 29k and 3 other sewing machines I had plenty of mineral oil. If it's good enough for a cast iron sewing machine it's good enough for this iron arbor press. It all works fine. All my rivet tools fit the hole in the ram. I did have to take a few punches to a machinist to be cut to the 3/8" diameter of the ram as well as my Chicago rivet tool. I now have all my fastener tools that fit the arbor press. Life is good again😀
Kevin the larger rod I believe is for putting together the female part of the snap so it can fit in the cap of the top snap to mate to two pieces together.
Great video. In the process of making modifications to my press. The first tool you made with the concave end is for setting rapid rivets, the one with the small bump on the end is for setting Line 24 snaps. Also, you can get an 11 piece set of tools for setting all sorts of snaps/rivets, off eBay for $6 . I am just going to cut them down to fit in my press. Much cheaper and easier than making new ones.
@@Robinson-Homestead Kevin, I think your videos are GR8! As far as buying the items from Ebay; Fouts & Co; if they work & are available; I maybe, might tend to lean in that direction depending on the product ONLY because I don't have a lot of the equipment; ex; lathes, etc. But for people who are like Kevin; enjoy manipulating tools, making usable, highly functioning tools & equipment for much less than the MRSP; WHY would they even consider wanting to buy the cheap CHINA products when they could make better quality products themselves for the same or cheaper price? We all know these hobbies we've acquired & enjoy so much can be very profitable for some people but for the rest of us these hobbies literally cost us a small fortune. Therefore we must try to get, or make quality tools and/or equipment we feel can help us make our products more efficiently or of a better quality. I appreciate people like Kevin & his videos & applaud him & all the others out there in youtube who are unselfish enough to want to share their knowledge with us; & they don't have to take time out of their day to make these videos. Everyone's aware you can buy ton's of those CHINA products everyday on Ebay & Amazon sites for a few dollars. Why are you compelled to post it to Kevin's site? If you want to buy the CHINA items from Ebay, go ahead, but why not just keep it to yourself?? I buy items from Ebay all the time but I don't post it to other people's video sites who are making items about what I purchased. Sorry, now I sound argumentative & that's NOT what I'm trying to do. I'm just saying this is my opinion & we all know about opinions. But BTW Kevin, THANK YOU, I appreciate the time you take to share your knowledge w/ the viewers of youtube land!!! Keep up the GOOD WORK! & I SINCERELY apologize for the long post.
The concave punch is for setting rivets. The punch with the nipple is used to flair the post inside your snap and there should be a small concave anvil that accompanies it. All the punch kits do come with directions, it helps if you read them. As far as your stamping punch goes, you have a lathe, cut it down to fit into your press, it’s less work and a soft steel. All of those punches can be purchased at Tandy leather cheap. I did all of this 20 years ago.
The bigger one is for the double headed rivets concave side to drive cap onto the lower piece with the shank, which sits in the concave circle per size in the little bar piece.
4:04 a couple ideas I have to make your wire brush cleanup easier: 1 - wire brush a longer rod before you cut it. 2 - If you’re trying to wire brush short pieces, chuck them into a cordless drill and spin them while you wire brush them. The chuck can hold the little pieces securely, and the cleanup time is greatly reduced.
Kevin are you saying you had already drilled a hole into the arbor press? I have one coming in and I'm not sure if it will have a hole drilled into it.
Make a leather punch of different sizes. And get a leather stamping kit and put it on the press. You have about talked me into a press keep coming up with more things for it waiting for you to come up with more good stuff brofesser..
7:07 try holding your hand behind the small part you’re trying to focus on. The camera doesn’t “see” the small part, but it will see your hand, and therefore be in focus.
is there a reason you dont just shove the original tools up into that hole and tighten the set screw? I dont understand why that wouldn't work. If its about being centered then sticking a chuck up there would do it I'd think. Its not an incredible amount of force needed on the flimsy metal used in snaps and rivets. You can buy these hammering tools so cheap on amazon or ebay its crazy. I've seen some people who do this without even having the hole in the shaft and just use a rare earth magnet and hold the original tool that way. I dont have a lathe, so I'm sure your tools willlast much longer, but these cheap chinese tools are cheap and easy to replace if they wear out.
Hi, I'd like to purchase a arbor press and modify it to be able to hold jewelry stamps. Can someone tell me if the ram head is hollow inside or made of solid metal? If it is howw inside I'll cut it and add a screw and job done!
I lived in a 4 bedroom house until my mom passed away 3 yrs ago and moved to the town 53 mile from where we lived. I now live in a 2 bedroom apt. In senior community. I rarely have visitors so I figured I would not need a living room anymore. So I turned it into my craft room. I'm a seamstress. I'm also a trained cobbler. I did a 5 yrs apprenticeship under a long time cobbler in a small East Texas town. I make shoes and boots. Mostly repair work of leather goods.
I had a barn in the small rural town we live outside of and had lots of room. I don't have this luxury anymore, so I had to be creative to get everything to fit in a 12x16 area.
I quickly found out I had to work Quigley to. So no hammering late at night. I though of an arbor press and realized I left a 5 ton press in the barn I once used. My sister took the press 65 mile away so getting that press was out of the question so I bought. 1 ton press on Amazon. It had a 3/8 hole in the ram already and a Allen screw. I was a set. I did like you, I cleaned it up. Since have a singer 29k and 3 other sewing machines I had plenty of mineral oil. If it's good enough for a cast iron sewing machine it's good enough for this iron arbor press. It all works fine. All my rivet tools fit the hole in the ram. I did have to take a few punches to a machinist to be cut to the 3/8" diameter of the ram as well as my Chicago rivet tool.
I now have all my fastener tools that fit the arbor press. Life is good again😀
Thanks for sharing my friend good luck on the shop.
"The arbor press from harbor freight." I felt that frustration and I'm having fun trying to say it myself. Thanks for the video.
Lol it is a tounge twister
The first rod you made is for dome/round topped rivets. The other rod is for both side of the snaps. Great work!
Thank you for watching
These little presses really shine doing this type of work. Thanks bud. Nice job on the tooling fella !
Thanks Tomoko's.
Kevin the larger rod I believe is for putting together the female part of the snap so it can fit in the cap of the top snap to mate to two pieces together.
Great video. In the process of making modifications to my press. The first tool you made with the concave end is for setting rapid rivets, the one with the small bump on the end is for setting Line 24 snaps. Also, you can get an 11 piece set of tools for setting all sorts of snaps/rivets, off eBay for $6 . I am just going to cut them down to fit in my press. Much cheaper and easier than making new ones.
That's a good idea thanks Fouts &Co.
@@Robinson-Homestead Kevin, I think your videos are GR8! As far as buying the items from Ebay; Fouts & Co; if they work & are available; I maybe, might tend to lean in that direction depending on the product ONLY because I don't have a lot of the equipment; ex; lathes, etc. But for people who are like Kevin; enjoy manipulating tools, making usable, highly functioning tools & equipment for much less than the MRSP; WHY would they even consider wanting to buy the cheap CHINA products when they could make better quality products themselves for the same or cheaper price? We all know these hobbies we've acquired & enjoy so much can be very profitable for some people but for the rest of us these hobbies literally cost us a small fortune. Therefore we must try to get, or make quality tools and/or equipment we feel can help us make our products more efficiently or of a better quality. I appreciate people like Kevin & his videos & applaud him & all the others out there in youtube who are unselfish enough to want to share their knowledge with us; & they don't have to take time out of their day to make these videos. Everyone's aware you can buy ton's of those CHINA products everyday on Ebay & Amazon sites for a few dollars. Why are you compelled to post it to Kevin's site? If you want to buy the CHINA items from Ebay, go ahead, but why not just keep it to yourself?? I buy items from Ebay all the time but I don't post it to other people's video sites who are making items about what I purchased. Sorry, now I sound argumentative & that's NOT what I'm trying to do. I'm just saying this is my opinion & we all know about opinions. But BTW Kevin, THANK YOU, I appreciate the time you take to share your knowledge w/ the viewers of youtube land!!! Keep up the GOOD WORK! & I SINCERELY apologize for the long post.
Really enjoying this series. That first post is for rivets, the one with the nipple on the end looks as though it is for line 24 snaps
Thanks for the info and watching.
We are going to see you at the crafts shows soon with all the leather crafts you will be able to make with all this equipment. Thank you for sharing!
Maybe one day Paul just for fun.
Great video, thanks. I have seen the bar magnetised andcthat hold all the tools and bits.
Cool, thanks
Thank you
Thank you for watching and the comment.
very good demonstration good job thank you for everything you do Kevin🖒😎
Thank You my friend.
The concave punch is for setting rivets. The punch with the nipple is used to flair the post inside your snap and there should be a small concave anvil that accompanies it. All the punch kits do come with directions, it helps if you read them. As far as your stamping punch goes, you have a lathe, cut it down to fit into your press, it’s less work and a soft steel. All of those punches can be purchased at Tandy leather cheap. I did all of this 20 years ago.
Thank you for the info Listillo Lordoc and thanks for watching.
Kevin the con cave and the con vexed stamp I believe is used for flatting aluminum rivets at least that is what I use it for.
Bill
Thanks for that Bill.
The bigger one is for the double headed rivets concave side to drive cap onto the lower piece with the shank, which sits in the concave circle per size in the little bar piece.
Thanks Larry.
4:04 a couple ideas I have to make your wire brush cleanup easier: 1 - wire brush a longer rod before you cut it. 2 - If you’re trying to wire brush short pieces, chuck them into a cordless drill and spin them while you wire brush them. The chuck can hold the little pieces securely, and the cleanup time is greatly reduced.
Thanks for the idea.
Excellent idea’s!
Thanks Johnny.
Thank you I have tool envy
Thank for the comment Daniel.
Kevin, you are the man !!! What about Grommets ??
Good tip thanks for watching
Thank for the video I really enjoyed it you are a man of mine Talents your friend G-man
Thank you G-man.
If you put a copper bb in behind the set screw, it screw won't damage the shaft of your ram insert and it will drop out easily.
Thank you J DeWitt.
Kevin are you saying you had already drilled a hole into the arbor press? I have one coming in and I'm not sure if it will have a hole drilled into it.
Need to put a flat on the round stock, so when grub screw hits it, they will still be able to easily be removed from press shaft...
Thanks Joel good one.
Place a strong magnet attached to the stand of the arbor press… then you can attach the hex key for easy access
Good idea thanks
Concave is for double cap rivets, but saves the rivet cap getting dented.
thanks for the info.
Make a leather punch of different sizes. And get a leather stamping kit and put it on the press. You have about talked me into a press keep coming up with more things for it waiting for you to come up with more good stuff brofesser..
Another Greg Smith that works with leather.......Go figure.
Hi, use a magnet to attach your tools cutters etc. Love your videos, thank you.
Cool, thanks
nice!... tyfs
Where could you get a fairly inexpensive lathe that would be sufficient to do these modifications?
I use a harbor Freight one or look on Facebook.
7:07 try holding your hand behind the small part you’re trying to focus on. The camera doesn’t “see” the small part, but it will see your hand, and therefore be in focus.
Thanks for the comment.
For a double cap rivet
Thank you.
I use it for quick snaps
Are your stamps magnetic? If so put a small rare Earth magnet on the end of our inside of the ram or stamp.
I don't think they are magnetic but that is a good idea.
The concave is so you don't damage the head of the rivet or the cap.
thanks for the info.
Arbor Freight Harbour press? :P
That works
The first one is a rivet set.
Thanks Adrian.
I think the first one you made might be for making the female side of the snaps
Thanks Todd I will check it out.
It is for snaps that have a rounded top so you don’t flatten them.
Thank you Dennis.
That one is for snap rivets.
is there a reason you dont just shove the original tools up into that hole and tighten the set screw? I dont understand why that wouldn't work. If its about being centered then sticking a chuck up there would do it I'd think. Its not an incredible amount of force needed on the flimsy metal used in snaps and rivets. You can buy these hammering tools so cheap on amazon or ebay its crazy. I've seen some people who do this without even having the hole in the shaft and just use a rare earth magnet and hold the original tool that way. I dont have a lathe, so I'm sure your tools willlast much longer, but these cheap chinese tools are cheap and easy to replace if they wear out.
Thanks for watching.
Watch Geordie leather uk to see leather skills with an Arbor press, magnet top tip from the UK.
Thanks Disco3
Hi, I'd like to purchase a arbor press and modify it to be able to hold jewelry stamps. Can someone tell me if the ram head is hollow inside or made of solid metal? If it is howw inside I'll cut it and add a screw and job done!
I think it's solid I drilled mine.
Kevin Robinson Thank you Kevin for the info. I wish I was as skilled as you are!
Go to Tandy and buy a snap setter kit, you will find the answers you seek
Thanks Doc.
made a mistake it was suppose to be quick rivets
That,s ok my friend thank you.