OMG the sanibel is not Goodyear welted shoes, IT’S BLAKE STITCHED. Also the heel base is half/half leather one layer and fiberboard the other. I can see I’m going to leave 50 comments before this video is over🤦♂️🤣🤣
I admire that GG produces this kind of content from a consumer’s point of view so while he may misinterpret shoe construction on occasions, I nonetheless enjoy this format. I love Bedos videos too but the format and production are entirely different though there are certainly overlaps in core audience. If anything, I hope both channels collaborate in the near future so show and clothing experts gather their knowledge and experience.
@@CrispyFrenFry I understand the need to make these type of videos. But they are clearly out of their element deconstructing a shoe, this is why I have a problem with this, because they will just end up passing incorrect information to the public. They also didn't bother doing any basic research on these styles. Also, if you're going to make such a video, you should probably tackle the staple AE models, that are representative of their heritage production, such as the Park Avenue or Fifth Avenue. Especially for the most recent period (2000 to now), it wouldn't be too hard to find an old pair on eBay. It just doesn't seem a like a well thought out video.
@@MMM88X I agree with your observations and hope they revisit this series with a more systematic approach. The fact is that I don’t have the time and means to produce such content so the only contribution I can make are through viewership and comments.
I’m only at 2:30 and already misleading info.🤣Rafayel, those are fiberboard heel blocks friend. The crow bar is classic, I need to get one to take heels off, never thought about that. 🤣🤣ok back to the video
@@gentlemansgazette that’s a good question. The source for that answer would be to contact the manufacturer directly. No not A/E but the actual company that makes the heel bases. MONTELLO HEEL MANUFACTURING INC. HAS BEEN HANDCRAFTING CUSTOM SHOE COMPONENTS FOR OVER A CENTURY. They are located in Brockton MA. They call it leatherboard thou not fiberboard. They are good people, maybe a phone call would answer that question
The fishing line it to pull the toes during the lasting. Gem Band?????? You mean gemming. I think to be fair to A/E if you want to compare the older models, you should really compare the same models through out the years. A/E has so many different styles and all are built a little differently then one another. To get a fair review, you should take apart for example “McNeil” model through out the years. But understanding some models are discontinued It was an enjoyable video Rafayel, you made me laugh. Thank you🤣🤣
Couple of notes. The heel blocks are leather board, not leather. Allen Edmonds heels are thicker on the inside as a means of additional arch support. The thicker inside puts upward pressure in the waist area of the shoe as you walk. The pieces of canvas under some portions of the leather is there to prevent squeaking that sometimes happens when you have leather against leather. The cork is hot poured cork. It is actually slightly better than sheet cork that even bespoke makers use. Hot poured cork fills all of the void every time. Sheet cork can sometimes leave small voids. Not really noticeable in most instances. The staples in the upper are there to tack the shoe to the last before the welt is added.
Sheet cork can be just as effective as poured cork assuming several layers of contact cement is applied first. The liquid contact cement will fill in all the voids. Contact cement dries into a cushion of soft rubber.
Those tacks/ staples are temporary holds for the gamming, lining and upper before it is all stitched together with the welt. All shoes and boots that are not hand welted have those. Hand welted boots or shoes will use temporary nails that get pulled while the welt is stitched
So, basically, with all the talk about Allen Edmonds declining in quality, the only difference in construction the past 50 years is that they've replaced leather heel caps with thermoplastic heel caps. A perfect illustration of how a narrative takes hold and becomes accepted fact even though it has no basis in reality.
That's not completely true. I handled a few vintage AEs and apart form obvious QC issues can tell the uppers and welt stitching was much more dense, and soles were cut nicer
@@thebarofsoapIG Yes. It's hard to overstate this point - that quality control can easily vary as owners, manufacturing locations and experienced/trained employees change.
@@thebarofsoapIG Its more than QC, its operators on key jobs not being trained/supervised well enough. If the QC is receiving 80% of the product in a poor state, they cannot reject them all and decisions to pass lower quality have to be made. This is the state of the trade nowadays in lower priced brands. They cannot pay high enough wages to retain the more skilled operators and managers and the product suffers. Blame the cost of living for the loss of affordable quality
I’ve worn Allen Edmonds shoes for almost 40 years. I still own a pair that I bought new 25 years ago. My cobbler recently installed old stock JR soles. The stitch count on the welt of my 25-year-old shoes is noticeably higher than a pair of AE that I purchased two years ago. The mid sole on modern Allen Edmonds shoes is just a very thin piece of leather. The particle board heel stack is just unacceptable in a shoe retailing for almost $500. Two years ago, I purchased a pair of AE Landon boots. They had several obvious cosmetic flaws, and the midsole was a very thin piece of leather. The boots had Danite outsoles. I sent them back. I bought a pair of White’s MP’s. I recently wanted a pair of dress boots, but couldn’t pull the trigger during AE recent sale. I purchased a pair of Beckett Simonon boots instead. They are made to order, and won’t be ready for a couple months. I’ve seen several comparison videos between the two companies. BS boots come with genuine stack leather heel blocks. I paid $169 during their recent sale. It breaks my heart, but the quality and quality control at AE are not what they used to be. Unfortunately through the years, AE has been bought and sold numerous times. I hope AE can improve its quality control. They have been around over 100 years. I hope they can turn things around.
Also Carl Murawski has a great channel mostly workwear centric however but he does quality reviews on great classic brands to see if they still are a quality standard or if they have declined.
I think the quality depends on the model, their classic line like the park avenue or 5th avenue tend to be better quality. I have those mentioned for 2 years now and are still going strong. A lot of their offshoot models usually feel inferior. I had a pair of Chicago Derby from them and right away the leather felt off. The sole was full rubber(still goodyear welt) and single pieced.
New brands have also greatly reduced the value proposition of AE for most people. At the $400 to $450 price range, there are literally hand lasted, hand welted shoes available.
There's a channel, Trenton & Heath, who work on shoes. They have a few videos featuring Edmund Allen shoes. Maybe you could do a collaboration with them and learn more about good shoe construction and how some brands have changed.
Despite needing some more thorough research into the construction of dress shoes I absolutely love this video. I can see all the comments pointing out inaccuracies in what you’re interpreting during the deconstruction but I’m learning nevertheless. That’s the point of these fine video, to learn together!
I still have and wear on a regular basis AE shoes that I bought in 1980 and after 3 re-soles they are still a good shoe. I understand if quality is lacking as the price rises bc there are far fewer businessmen wearing suits so less are sold which translates to lower revenue to AE. Sucks but that’s just the way it is.
GG - Please watch a few videos by Bedo's Leatherworks or Trenton & Heath so that you learn more about the different types of construction methods. Paper vs Leather (you noted leather when it was paper), Good year vs Blake, etc. The "wrap around" piece of leather is actually call the rand. All the same, thanks for running through the models as I could see the differences.
It's my understanding, from training I received years back for selling shoes, that the lasts changed due to the fire. When the factory burned down all of the old lasts, that had been designed and made in house, were destroyed. All of the shoes since then have been on the generic replacement lasts. We were told that was why the older 'combi' lasts, which afforded a better fit, were no longer used.
What a horrible hatchet job on AE. Among other things, seconds are discounted shoes because they have flaws, and are therefore the prices are strongly discounted. Further, The only fair comparison would be the same shoe models from past and present.
I own about 25 pairs of AE size 14, and have yet to be disappointed. The most recent was the Discovery Moto Chelsea boot, which absolutely reeks of quality! I can't recommend the company any more highly!
Quality might be similar, but AE's quality control is absolutely terrible. I would only ever buy a pair if you are able to inspect it in person, and not order online.
I currently don't have a need to wear dress shoes on a consistent basis (I work outside so work boots all the way), but I'm sure in the future with a career change, I will. I'm going to be eyeing AE until that day comes and probably go for a pair of 2nds.
@@franky3fingers337 I second that. Can't recommend Grant Stone enough, although their last for some of their shoes can be a little "bloated" in my opinion. Nevertheless, great quality, great build, great leather and great looks
@@bossman4799 Just buy them now. Wear them when you're indoors, not working, relaxing, field tripping, shopping, ducking out to the corner shops. Allen Edmonds may be a beginner's brand for dress shoes but the quality far outweighs their position in the market. Truly worth the money and my used pairs from 2018 onward are still being worn. Today I slip into my Del Ray.
I have been watching your show for years now and I truly love it. But I must say leave shoe construction and explanation to the pros like bedos Leatherworks.. the heel blocks your pulling off with a crow bar at that is compressed fiberboard leather doesn't rip like you was doing in the show....stick with your knowledge of clothes...love your show
@@davidpielykh3996 carmina is more expensive than Allen Edmonds and that not considering that they run sales every other day. I'd personally rather support American brands and American jobs. Even then if I had to choose a made in spain shoe, I would go with TLB's Artisa line anyways.
A couple high-end shoe stores in town told me they even stopped selling them because the quality is so poor. They told me it depends on the style of shoe. A lot of their traditional styles are still of decent quality, but not always. I bought 3 pairs in 2016 and none of them were 2nds. The sole of the loafer wore all the way through in 3 months. The black wingtip's heal cap fell off after a couple months of wear during a funeral no less. The third pair, I still wear multiple times a week.
i can tell you why that's the case. It's because they wanted to sell from their own stores, and didn't want to do it through 3rd party retailer. Literally I asked a few dealers of high end shoes in the Gables and The Fashion district in Miami, thats what they told me. Simple Economics of cutting down cost
If you do another one of these videos, you should consider doing a collaboration with Bedo's Leatherworks channel. I think his expertise would be valuable. Thanks for the video!
I’m going to watch this later on! I’ve owned up to 14 pairs of AE at one point in time, and I’ve viewed the quality of the shoes I’ve received as quite similar. Thanks for doing this video! And… Minnesota represent! I used to live in EP ;)
Allen Edmonds Blake stitched shoes were made by the predecessor company to Rancourt (owned by Kyle's dad) until the early 2000s. They were still made in America, but were made in Maine rather than Port Washington. That's why the shoe looks so different inside.
The shoes look fantastic! I still hope to invest in Wingtips someday so appreciate the ideas. Truly curious what are your thoughts on wearing Suit Jackets as seperates? I'm trying to figure out if wearing my Glen Plaid Jacket would be suitable to also wear as a sport coat otherwise I'll try to find the matching pair of pants. It was sold as a seperate though so hopefully it can go well with Chinos.
Hi, great video. But just so that you know. The heal blocks you showed are leather board and not real stacked leather and the Sanabel model was Blake stitched and a few other little discrepancies. But, glad you're showing the differences.
Someone gift Raphael a proper set of cobbler's pincers, I was worried he was going to propel the heel blocks into his face... The little tacks are indeed to keep things in place during the assembly process, and some of them just wind up buried between the layers depending on how it is assembled.
Ive read several comments posted here by actual cobblers, and judging by their comments, it sounds like this guy is just embarrassing himself 🤣😅 (and many times came close to injuring himself)
I've been pretty happy with my Allen Edmonds shoes with a collection of 10 bought since 2016. One pair has been resoled and the others are going strong. Thanks for showing us the insides of this footwear.
As a big AE fan I’ve moved on. I still love my walnut strands and black park ave’s but I only get Alden’s, Vibergs, and for value Grant Stone. GS has really changed the way I shop for shoes.
Dude but Alden's QC is as bad as AE. Fiberboard heels and mid sole in theirs $600 Indy boot. Grant Stone's QC is 1000x better tan Alden's. I was an Alden's fan, but after watching the Bedos leather works videos on Indy boots I decided to move on
One of the worst $300 I have ever spend on a shoe was at Allen Edmonds. High Quality material but the worst of all the time manmade. Bought 4 pairs of shoe worth over $1k and two of them was very bad, stitching is coming off and one Sude shoe was completely deformed.
The materials quality and overall construction is good but the attention to details sucks for the price point given other options. I've seen stitches problems, welt ending point mess, scratches,asymetry, color mess etc.. on 1st display models. They are still good shoes to wear daily or to beat them up but I'll rather go with anything from Herring or Shoe passion. They are comfortable, that I get to give it to Allen Edmonds, they nailed whatever last they came up with.
What is the verdict? Also, Allen Edmond is now outsourcing some lines to India for Nordstrom Rack has anyone tried them for the long term and how bad were they compared to the one from Port Washington besides being hard leather vs soft and supple. I don't mind hard leather as it tends to last longer.
@@claytonberg721 People will have different experiences. But one of the benefits of a Goodyear welt is the protection against water coming through the connection between the upper and the sole. It is well understood that the 360 offers more protection than the 270. For some this isn't a big deal.
i think this is a great series but sometimes the music is too loud and unfortunately the gentleman's vioce seems to suffer some sort of impediment? speech issue? sorry please forgive me.
I bought some of their "speed last" loafers a while back, not expecting absolute top quality. The construction was adequate but was absolutely disappointed to find they were made from bookbinder leather.
Stay in your lane. There are channels for this facilitated by professionals in the world of shoemaking and repair. This discredits everything else of yours that I’ve watched. I’m done.
In my opinion: AE shoes look like they're just learning the craft. They're very terrible, I have three pairs & only 1 is acceptable quality. In order to get that one I had to exchange the scary Frankenstein shoes they mailed me to their mall store. It's very common to see their right foot shoes have the side stitching run off of the brogueing for two/three stitches, shoe bag fuzz glued to the edge coating & off center heal cups. One of my pairs have the wrong liners made for a 1/2 size smaller. All are very comfortable despite their irregularities. Most of their online sales would be to unload seconds, thirds or fourths. Feel free to check Amazon reviews. Don't waist your time.
There has been some debate in the menswear community about whether Allen Edmonds shoes have gone down in quality in recent years. While opinions vary, it is generally agreed that there have been some changes to the brand's manufacturing process and materials that have impacted the quality of their shoes. One major change was the introduction of a new "integrated cork" footbed system in some of their shoes, which some customers have found to be less comfortable and durable than the previous cork footbeds. Additionally, some customers have noted inconsistencies in the quality of the leather used in their shoes, with some pairs being more prone to creasing and wear than others. However, it's important to note that Allen Edmonds still produces high-quality shoes that are well-regarded in the menswear community. While some customers may have had negative experiences with the brand, others continue to be satisfied with the quality of their shoes and the company's customer service. Ultimately, the quality of Allen Edmonds shoes may depend on the specific pair and the manufacturing process used. It's important to do your own research and read reviews before making a purchase to ensure that you're getting a pair of shoes that meet your expectations for quality and durability.
It seems like Allen Edmonds were always just a fashion brand with some man made materials, if you wanna get a really high quality shoe but Grant Stone it's all leather with some models have a rubber sole. Grant Stone is a HIGH quality brand. I'll NEVER buy Allen Edmonds AGAIN cuz it not even worth the price they post for their shoes/boots!
I purchased a pair of strand oxfords with rubber tap sole in walnut in 2021. It took maybe a week or two to break in. They're still the most comfortable dress shoes i've ever owned. There is very minimal creasing in the past 2 years since i've owned them. In the beginning, i was using these about 3 days a week. Nowadays, i use them about two times a week to the office. I'm considering ordering a pair of Carlyle Oxfords with the Dainite or rubber tap soles but they're starting to get pricey, even during their sales. Not sure what alternatives would be out there in similar or lower price ranges.
Allen Edmonds are great shoes but their quality has definitely decreased in the last 30ish years and especially recently. It's noticeable with the fine details and materials they use. Granted they aren't raising prices proportionally with inflation so you're not getting ripped off and the shoes are still high quality.
Daltons and Liverpools for me. I don’t buy anything else from AE, but those two models. Everything else in their line up is where the complaints come from. Just my opinion and could be wrong. I’m just a consistent buyer.
Great video. Informative and fun to watch. Can tell Sven had a good time making it. Constructive criticism: put a conclusion at the top of the video. It'd hook me into watching the rest of the video to find out 'why?'.
I have only owned this brand for 3 years. I bout three pairs, none of them were seconds but they should have been. The company reduced the prices of the shoes to those of seconds. Service was good, footwear not so much. Alden’s, Vibergs. This are my go to brands. Never disappointed.
I watched reviews, read up on the Allen Edmonds manufacturing methods and history, it all sounded great. So I bought a pair of Chukka Boots, great product, great purchasing experience overall, I decided to buy more shoes. Bought a pair of Dalton Wingtip Dress Boots. I received 2 different color boots, also one of the boots seemed to be a different vintage or much older and had been on display for some time. Multiple price tickers attached and removed, physical dimensions were different, a different cut of the same style. I called customer service, they apologized and said they would send out another pair, free shipping. Got the next pair, shoes are with out a doubt reject, much worse than even factory second shoes. I wear a size 9.5, the shoes I received are a size 8 or possible even smaller, maybe 7, but marked as a 9.5 D The shoes were also misshapen. The left looked like a right, the toe was curved outward. The worst quality I've seen from any shoe company, shameful quality.
I just bought an Allen Edmonds shoes (Park Ave). I conditioned them because I wanted to get a mirror toe. I used saphir and as I was conditioning them, the dye was getting light in some areas and swirled in others. I called them and they told me that I ruined them using saphir , but I could send them back and they can tell me how much it would cost to repair them. I wish I had at least worn them one time, before this happened. Apparently, the factory is doing something different (or at least cut corners on mine), and doesn't stand behind the shoes. I hope this doesn't happen to anyone else. I won't purchase any other Allen Edmond shoes, because of the product and being told that I ruined them when I conditioned them..
Too late now of course, but I would take Justin Fitzpatrick's advice to avoid conditioning brand-new shoes. Only do so if the leather begins to look like it needs it.
Saphir renovateur has something in it that certain shoe dyes don't like. You didn't ruin the shoes, just polish anthem with black shoe polish. If I stabbed my shoes with scissors trying to trim the laces, they'd say it was my fault.... Because it was.
Renovateur had an effect on my bourbon Fifth Avenues however with some brown polish and a little bit of care, they still look good and have a unique patina.
OMG the sanibel is not Goodyear welted shoes, IT’S BLAKE STITCHED. Also the heel base is half/half leather one layer and fiberboard the other.
I can see I’m going to leave 50 comments before this video is over🤦♂️🤣🤣
Bedo's is coming in HOT 🔥
Just was about to say that, saved me the time!
I admire that GG produces this kind of content from a consumer’s point of view so while he may misinterpret shoe construction on occasions, I nonetheless enjoy this format. I love Bedos videos too but the format and production are entirely different though there are certainly overlaps in core audience. If anything, I hope both channels collaborate in the near future so show and clothing experts gather their knowledge and experience.
@@CrispyFrenFry I understand the need to make these type of videos. But they are clearly out of their element deconstructing a shoe, this is why I have a problem with this, because they will just end up passing incorrect information to the public. They also didn't bother doing any basic research on these styles. Also, if you're going to make such a video, you should probably tackle the staple AE models, that are representative of their heritage production, such as the Park Avenue or Fifth Avenue. Especially for the most recent period (2000 to now), it wouldn't be too hard to find an old pair on eBay. It just doesn't seem a like a well thought out video.
@@MMM88X I agree with your observations and hope they revisit this series with a more systematic approach. The fact is that I don’t have the time and means to produce such content so the only contribution I can make are through viewership and comments.
I’m only at 2:30 and already misleading info.🤣Rafayel, those are fiberboard heel blocks friend. The crow bar is classic, I need to get one to take heels off, never thought about that. 🤣🤣ok back to the video
Exactly what I was thinking. Kind of reminds me of the belt video.
How do you chemically determine if it is fiberboard made from wood vs, leather scraps?
@@gentlemansgazette that’s a good question. The source for that answer would be to contact the manufacturer directly. No not A/E but the actual company that makes the heel bases. MONTELLO HEEL MANUFACTURING INC. HAS BEEN HANDCRAFTING CUSTOM SHOE COMPONENTS FOR OVER A CENTURY. They are located in Brockton MA. They call it leatherboard thou not fiberboard. They are good people, maybe a phone call would answer that question
@@BedosLeatherworksLLC Thank you
The fishing line it to pull the toes during the lasting. Gem Band?????? You mean gemming.
I think to be fair to A/E if you want to compare the older models, you should really compare the same models through out the years. A/E has so many different styles and all are built a little differently then one another. To get a fair review, you should take apart for example “McNeil” model through out the years. But understanding some models are discontinued
It was an enjoyable video Rafayel, you made me laugh. Thank you🤣🤣
Hello Steve! do I smell a collaboration video?
The man himself!
@@Marx_Ramone haha it’s up to Rafayel
Good luck finding the same model from different eras ;). Collab wouldn't be easy at this point in time... but I am sure the stars will align some day.
@@gentlemansgazette yes understandingly that would be an issue.
No worries on the collab
Couple of notes. The heel blocks are leather board, not leather. Allen Edmonds heels are thicker on the inside as a means of additional arch support. The thicker inside puts upward pressure in the waist area of the shoe as you walk.
The pieces of canvas under some portions of the leather is there to prevent squeaking that sometimes happens when you have leather against leather.
The cork is hot poured cork. It is actually slightly better than sheet cork that even bespoke makers use. Hot poured cork fills all of the void every time. Sheet cork can sometimes leave small voids. Not really noticeable in most instances.
The staples in the upper are there to tack the shoe to the last before the welt is added.
Sheet cork can be just as effective as poured cork assuming several layers of contact cement is applied first. The liquid contact cement will fill in all the voids. Contact cement dries into a cushion of soft rubber.
Watching Raphael take these shoes apart, I'm surprised he still has all ten fingers.
Hope he cleaned up the mess all the way or his wife get mad and then hes in trouble 😄
Those tacks/ staples are temporary holds for the gamming, lining and upper before it is all stitched together with the welt. All shoes and boots that are not hand welted have those. Hand welted boots or shoes will use temporary nails that get pulled while the welt is stitched
So, basically, with all the talk about Allen Edmonds declining in quality, the only difference in construction the past 50 years is that they've replaced leather heel caps with thermoplastic heel caps. A perfect illustration of how a narrative takes hold and becomes accepted fact even though it has no basis in reality.
I think the issue is quality control rather than quality itself.
And I would not doubt if it’s the factory being overstressed to put out more shoes.
That's not completely true. I handled a few vintage AEs and apart form obvious QC issues can tell the uppers and welt stitching was much more dense, and soles were cut nicer
@@thebarofsoapIG Yes. It's hard to overstate this point - that quality control can easily vary as owners, manufacturing locations and experienced/trained employees change.
@@thebarofsoapIG Its more than QC, its operators on key jobs not being trained/supervised well enough. If the QC is receiving 80% of the product in a poor state, they cannot reject them all and decisions to pass lower quality have to be made. This is the state of the trade nowadays in lower priced brands. They cannot pay high enough wages to retain the more skilled operators and managers and the product suffers. Blame the cost of living for the loss of affordable quality
I’ve worn Allen Edmonds shoes for almost 40 years. I still own a pair that I bought new 25 years ago. My cobbler recently installed old stock JR soles. The stitch count on the welt of my 25-year-old shoes is noticeably higher than a pair of AE that I purchased two years ago. The mid sole on modern Allen Edmonds shoes is just a very thin piece of leather. The particle board heel stack is just unacceptable in a shoe retailing for almost $500. Two years ago, I purchased a pair of AE Landon boots. They had several obvious cosmetic flaws, and the midsole was a very thin piece of leather. The boots had Danite outsoles. I sent them back. I bought a pair of White’s MP’s. I recently wanted a pair of dress boots, but couldn’t pull the trigger during AE recent sale. I purchased a pair of Beckett Simonon boots instead. They are made to order, and won’t be ready for a couple months. I’ve seen several comparison videos between the two companies. BS boots come with genuine stack leather heel blocks. I paid $169 during their recent sale. It breaks my heart, but the quality and quality control at AE are not what they used to be. Unfortunately through the years, AE has been bought and sold numerous times. I hope AE can improve its quality control. They have been around over 100 years. I hope they can turn things around.
This channel, roseanvil and other similar channels are changing the world 1 product at a time and I am very thankful for it.
Also Carl Murawski has a great channel mostly workwear centric however but he does quality reviews on great classic brands to see if they still are a quality standard or if they have declined.
I think the quality depends on the model, their classic line like the park avenue or 5th avenue tend to be better quality.
I have those mentioned for 2 years now and are still going strong. A lot of their offshoot models usually feel inferior. I had a pair of Chicago Derby from them and right away the leather felt off. The sole was full rubber(still goodyear welt) and single pieced.
Just in time for the 100th Anniversary Sale lol , most people probs buy AE when they have sales nowadays since its so frequent
New brands have also greatly reduced the value proposition of AE for most people. At the $400 to $450 price range, there are literally hand lasted, hand welted shoes available.
@@hydroaegis6658 like?
@@gnarl12 Vass when on sale, Yearn Shoemaker, other Asian makers.
There's a channel, Trenton & Heath, who work on shoes. They have a few videos featuring Edmund Allen shoes. Maybe you could do a collaboration with them and learn more about good shoe construction and how some brands have changed.
I always love how he says "leather" .. "ledder" ... enjoy the videos and the accent!
Can I get those shoes to barrow for a more in-depth explanation from a second generation cobbler?
The fishing line they used when lasting the shoes to prevent the wrinkles on the toe cap. Thats the old way.
Despite needing some more thorough research into the construction of dress shoes I absolutely love this video. I can see all the comments pointing out inaccuracies in what you’re interpreting during the deconstruction but I’m learning nevertheless. That’s the point of these fine video, to learn together!
I still have and wear on a regular basis AE shoes that I bought in 1980 and after 3 re-soles they are still a good shoe. I understand if quality is lacking as the price rises bc there are far fewer businessmen wearing suits so less are sold which translates to lower revenue to AE. Sucks but that’s just the way it is.
AE has good lasts for large shoes. Most competing company’s do not even brother with sizes above 12
With either😒
Or with wide fit shoes.
AE is a serious & efficient company. Held up from 1900s to date. Kudos. GG, thank you for these Vids
Thanks for the video! Could you please make a video focusing on Lock & Co. Hats?
GG - Please watch a few videos by Bedo's Leatherworks or Trenton & Heath so that you learn more about the different types of construction methods. Paper vs Leather (you noted leather when it was paper), Good year vs Blake, etc. The "wrap around" piece of leather is actually call the rand. All the same, thanks for running through the models as I could see the differences.
It's my understanding, from training I received years back for selling shoes, that the lasts changed due to the fire. When the factory burned down all of the old lasts, that had been designed and made in house, were destroyed. All of the shoes since then have been on the generic replacement lasts. We were told that was why the older 'combi' lasts, which afforded a better fit, were no longer used.
What a horrible hatchet job on AE. Among other things, seconds are discounted shoes because they have flaws, and are therefore the prices are strongly discounted. Further, The only fair comparison would be the same shoe models from past and present.
Seeing the leeds get destroy made me feel so sad
that was a fantastic pair of leeds.
Port Washington WI? I’ve been to that exact shoe store several times. I’ve always thought they were fine quality.
I own about 25 pairs of AE size 14, and have yet to be disappointed. The most recent was the Discovery Moto Chelsea boot, which absolutely reeks of quality! I can't recommend the company any more highly!
Okay, so now I know what my shoes are made of. How do I get them back together ?
....... Only joking 😁.
Quality might be similar, but AE's quality control is absolutely terrible. I would only ever buy a pair if you are able to inspect it in person, and not order online.
I currently don't have a need to wear dress shoes on a consistent basis (I work outside so work boots all the way), but I'm sure in the future with a career change, I will. I'm going to be eyeing AE until that day comes and probably go for a pair of 2nds.
They have sales almost every month haha so you could find proper qc shoes for over 100 bucks off!
@@kart182 You're right about that. I checked their site earlier and they had 5th avenues down $100 so they were the same price as 2nds.
Get them used or as seconds. If you want better quality at a similar/lower price check out grant stone.
@@franky3fingers337 I second that. Can't recommend Grant Stone enough, although their last for some of their shoes can be a little "bloated" in my opinion. Nevertheless, great quality, great build, great leather and great looks
@@bossman4799 Just buy them now. Wear them when you're indoors, not working, relaxing, field tripping, shopping, ducking out to the corner shops. Allen Edmonds may be a beginner's brand for dress shoes but the quality far outweighs their position in the market. Truly worth the money and my used pairs from 2018 onward are still being worn. Today I slip into my Del Ray.
Who ironed your shirt? Doesn’t look like anyone did
2:10 is this really leather? I don't see how real leather can break apart that easily, is it not just fiberboard or something?
I have been watching your show for years now and I truly love it. But I must say leave shoe construction and explanation to the pros like bedos Leatherworks.. the heel blocks your pulling off with a crow bar at that is compressed fiberboard leather doesn't rip like you was doing in the show....stick with your knowledge of clothes...love your show
Great video. How about Edward Green? I think it would be interesting to see what goes into their shoes. Thank you
The sanabell is NOT a Goodyear welted shoe
I believe they’re good quality shoes but they’re a terrible value. Very overpriced
At full retail price they are indeed overpriced, but when you can often get them for $200-230 it’s a good deal.
Yep, Carmina offers better quality for same or even less
@@davidpielykh3996 not in the USA.
@Another TH-cam account Carmina's definetly not a small company, check their revenue and social media followers quantity
@@davidpielykh3996 carmina is more expensive than Allen Edmonds and that not considering that they run sales every other day. I'd personally rather support American brands and American jobs. Even then if I had to choose a made in spain shoe, I would go with TLB's Artisa line anyways.
A couple high-end shoe stores in town told me they even stopped selling them because the quality is so poor. They told me it depends on the style of shoe. A lot of their traditional styles are still of decent quality, but not always. I bought 3 pairs in 2016 and none of them were 2nds. The sole of the loafer wore all the way through in 3 months. The black wingtip's heal cap fell off after a couple months of wear during a funeral no less. The third pair, I still wear multiple times a week.
Interesting observations, Chris! Thanks for sharing.
- Preston
i can tell you why that's the case. It's because they wanted to sell from their own stores, and didn't want to do it through 3rd party retailer. Literally I asked a few dealers of high end shoes in the Gables and The Fashion district in Miami, thats what they told me. Simple Economics of cutting down cost
If you do another one of these videos, you should consider doing a collaboration with Bedo's Leatherworks channel. I think his expertise would be valuable. Thanks for the video!
I’m going to watch this later on! I’ve owned up to 14 pairs of AE at one point in time, and I’ve viewed the quality of the shoes I’ve received as quite similar. Thanks for doing this video!
And… Minnesota represent! I used to live in EP ;)
Allen Edmonds Blake stitched shoes were made by the predecessor company to Rancourt (owned by Kyle's dad) until the early 2000s. They were still made in America, but were made in Maine rather than Port Washington. That's why the shoe looks so different inside.
+1. I have some of these older handsewn Blake models and they were absolutely beautiful. On par with what you expect from Rancourt nowadays.
What are the newer Allen Edmonds heel blocks made out of? Paper?
I can’t help but cringe when Raphael pulls open the decades old shoes but Do appreciate a thorough review and education
The shoes look fantastic! I still hope to invest in Wingtips someday so appreciate the ideas. Truly curious what are your thoughts on wearing Suit Jackets as seperates? I'm trying to figure out if wearing my Glen Plaid Jacket would be suitable to also wear as a sport coat otherwise I'll try to find the matching pair of pants. It was sold as a seperate though so hopefully it can go well with Chinos.
Hi, great video. But just so that you know. The heal blocks you showed are leather board and not real stacked leather and the Sanabel model was Blake stitched and a few other little discrepancies. But, glad you're showing the differences.
Someone gift Raphael a proper set of cobbler's pincers, I was worried he was going to propel the heel blocks into his face...
The little tacks are indeed to keep things in place during the assembly process, and some of them just wind up buried between the layers depending on how it is assembled.
Ive read several comments posted here by actual cobblers, and judging by their comments, it sounds like this guy is just embarrassing himself 🤣😅 (and many times came close to injuring himself)
I love your “taking it apart videos” please keep them coming 👍
I've been pretty happy with my Allen Edmonds shoes with a collection of 10 bought since 2016. One pair has been resoled and the others are going strong. Thanks for showing us the insides of this footwear.
As a big AE fan I’ve moved on. I still love my walnut strands and black park ave’s but I only get Alden’s, Vibergs, and for value Grant Stone. GS has really changed the way I shop for shoes.
Dude but Alden's QC is as bad as AE. Fiberboard heels and mid sole in theirs $600 Indy boot. Grant Stone's QC is 1000x better tan Alden's. I was an Alden's fan, but after watching the Bedos leather works videos on Indy boots I decided to move on
@@Marx_Ramone that's why you buy your shoes from the shire.
@@claytonberg721 💯 couldn't agree more
One of the worst $300 I have ever spend on a shoe was at Allen Edmonds. High Quality material but the worst of all the time manmade. Bought 4 pairs of shoe worth over $1k and two of them was very bad, stitching is coming off and one Sude shoe was completely deformed.
The materials quality and overall construction is good but the attention to details sucks for the price point given other options. I've seen stitches problems, welt ending point mess, scratches,asymetry, color mess etc.. on 1st display models. They are still good shoes to wear daily or to beat them up but I'll rather go with anything from Herring or Shoe passion.
They are comfortable, that I get to give it to Allen Edmonds, they nailed whatever last they came up with.
Yes! And not only that, so has customer service. I returned a pair of shoes, and almost 3 months later, I'm still waiting for my refund.
What is the verdict? Also, Allen Edmond is now outsourcing some lines to India for Nordstrom Rack has anyone tried them for the long term and how bad were they compared to the one from Port Washington besides being hard leather vs soft and supple. I don't mind hard leather as it tends to last longer.
Nicely done. Thanks for doing this comparison.
The 360 degree welt has the advantage of better water resistance to the 270 degree welt. But you trade that for a less sleek look.
maybe, technically. But the iron ranger for one has a 270 welt. As does I believe the Indy.
@@claytonberg721 The Alden Indy boot and the Wolverine 1000 Mile have 270 also. Both experience water seepage at the quarters when exposed to water.
@@janerkenbrack3373 anecdotal of course but I hike in iron rangers in all kind of conditions but have never had water seepage.
@@claytonberg721 People will have different experiences. But one of the benefits of a Goodyear welt is the protection against water coming through the connection between the upper and the sole. It is well understood that the 360 offers more protection than the 270. For some this isn't a big deal.
I'm not sure that those heels that rip completely are leather. Bedos leatherworks says many AE have fiberboard heels.
Correct, also Alden uses fiber board as well. It doesn’t bother me as much as others but for the price of the shoes they should be leather.
God love you Raphael, but this content is screaming for a caleb with Rose Anvil.
Hi mate. Have you begged for more free stuff from Spier Mackay since last time? Asking for a friend.
Sir why you keep wearing this prisoner's shirt in many videos? Wear your tweed jacket!
There are way better tools for removing shoe parts. You should get better tools
I have several pairs of Alan Edmunds I don't feel a difference but let's see if Im Wrong.
i think this is a great series but sometimes the music is too loud and unfortunately the gentleman's vioce seems to suffer some sort of impediment? speech issue? sorry please forgive me.
I bought some of their "speed last" loafers a while back, not expecting absolute top quality. The construction was adequate but was absolutely disappointed to find they were made from bookbinder leather.
The AE in brown I can see raymond reddington wearing this brand. Hes well dressed
Stay in your lane. There are channels for this facilitated by professionals in the world of shoemaking and repair. This discredits everything else of yours that I’ve watched. I’m done.
Thinking the same....Not sure how this guy would know if things weren't repaired prior to his taking them apart.
In my opinion: AE shoes look like they're just learning the craft. They're very terrible, I have three pairs & only 1 is acceptable quality. In order to get that one I had to exchange the scary Frankenstein shoes they mailed me to their mall store.
It's very common to see their right foot shoes have the side stitching run off of the brogueing for two/three stitches, shoe bag fuzz glued to the edge coating & off center heal cups. One of my pairs have the wrong liners made for a 1/2 size smaller. All are very comfortable despite their irregularities.
Most of their online sales would be to unload seconds, thirds or fourths. Feel free to check Amazon reviews.
Don't waist your time.
I love the channel but this shirt looks bad lol the stripes are too big
There has been some debate in the menswear community about whether Allen Edmonds shoes have gone down in quality in recent years. While opinions vary, it is generally agreed that there have been some changes to the brand's manufacturing process and materials that have impacted the quality of their shoes.
One major change was the introduction of a new "integrated cork" footbed system in some of their shoes, which some customers have found to be less comfortable and durable than the previous cork footbeds. Additionally, some customers have noted inconsistencies in the quality of the leather used in their shoes, with some pairs being more prone to creasing and wear than others.
However, it's important to note that Allen Edmonds still produces high-quality shoes that are well-regarded in the menswear community. While some customers may have had negative experiences with the brand, others continue to be satisfied with the quality of their shoes and the company's customer service.
Ultimately, the quality of Allen Edmonds shoes may depend on the specific pair and the manufacturing process used. It's important to do your own research and read reviews before making a purchase to ensure that you're getting a pair of shoes that meet your expectations for quality and durability.
Seeing that wonderful spectator ripped apart really hurt, given how difficult it is to find spectators today.
As it happens, we might be working on some spectator-related content - stay tuned! ;)
@@gentlemansgazette
Marvelous. Really looking forward to it :)
AE had a handsewn factory in Maine at one point
It seems like Allen Edmonds were always just a fashion brand with some man made materials, if you wanna get a really high quality shoe but Grant Stone it's all leather with some models have a rubber sole. Grant Stone is a HIGH quality brand. I'll NEVER buy Allen Edmonds AGAIN cuz it not even worth the price they post for their shoes/boots!
I was unreasonably annoyed with Rafael calling the heel counter a heel cap but he totally redeemed himself pronouncing Blutcher at 44:08
I purchased a pair of strand oxfords with rubber tap sole in walnut in 2021. It took maybe a week or two to break in. They're still the most comfortable dress shoes i've ever owned. There is very minimal creasing in the past 2 years since i've owned them. In the beginning, i was using these about 3 days a week. Nowadays, i use them about two times a week to the office. I'm considering ordering a pair of Carlyle Oxfords with the Dainite or rubber tap soles but they're starting to get pricey, even during their sales. Not sure what alternatives would be out there in similar or lower price ranges.
The newer models dont have the sock liner with thd gold foil "ALLEN EDMONDS" embossing anymore, its all just insole :/
Allen Edmonds are great shoes but their quality has definitely decreased in the last 30ish years and especially recently. It's noticeable with the fine details and materials they use. Granted they aren't raising prices proportionally with inflation so you're not getting ripped off and the shoes are still high quality.
I think Mr. Schneider rather enjoyed taking those shoes apart. Perhaps a new channel "Gentleman's Sledgehammer"?
please wear eye protection.
The Sanibel venetian loafer is not goodyear welted. It's Blake-stitched.
Aren't the somewhat recent rise in complaints about AE shoes due to extremely poor quality control?
Daltons and Liverpools for me. I don’t buy anything else from AE, but those two models. Everything else in their line up is where the complaints come from. Just my opinion and could be wrong. I’m just a consistent buyer.
Great video. Informative and fun to watch. Can tell Sven had a good time making it.
Constructive criticism: put a conclusion at the top of the video. It'd hook me into watching the rest of the video to find out 'why?'.
Nylon lined. Not linen. Lol.
it would've been a better comparison if they were all the same model, but appreciate your thought
where is the cuting shoes service? please dont do manual work like that ever again
I have only owned this brand for 3 years. I bout three pairs, none of them were seconds but they should have been. The company reduced the prices of the shoes to those of seconds. Service was good, footwear not so much.
Alden’s, Vibergs. This are my go to brands. Never disappointed.
I watched reviews, read up on the Allen Edmonds manufacturing methods and history, it all sounded great. So I bought a pair of Chukka Boots, great product, great purchasing experience overall, I decided to buy more shoes. Bought a pair of Dalton Wingtip Dress Boots. I received 2 different color boots, also one of the boots seemed to be a different vintage or much older and had been on display for some time. Multiple price tickers attached and removed, physical dimensions were different, a different cut of the same style. I called customer service, they apologized and said they would send out another pair, free shipping. Got the next pair, shoes are with out a doubt reject, much worse than even factory second shoes. I wear a size 9.5, the shoes I received are a size 8 or possible even smaller, maybe 7, but marked as a 9.5 D The shoes were also misshapen. The left looked like a right, the toe was curved outward. The worst quality I've seen from any shoe company, shameful quality.
firts!
You get an Oscar award for that!
Your life is now complete, it's only downhill from now...
@@nemesis1291 Downhill, for a big bounceback!
@@keshavrao212 yes brother, that's how to play the game of life💪❤️
Dear God. Not the Leeds. You're killing me! 😆
Any recommendation for shoe brands I can invest on for my interviews?
Not quiet the 100 year anniversary video I was expecting. Lol
I want Aldens so bad but it's super hard to buy those in Russia
Hope the gentleman on brushes was well remunerated for this
My shoes 25 yrs old and still going strong A.E. 👍
Please start a playlist about “when to wear” what
15:10. The fabric is an anti squeak layer
Don’t think you can wear them again!
I had these concerns as well, thanks for clearing this up for us!
good entry level luxury mens shoe .
I own three pairs and like them lots!
These shoes are really nice i wish i had one of those shoes
I just bought an Allen Edmonds shoes (Park Ave). I conditioned them because I wanted to get a mirror toe. I used saphir and as I was conditioning them, the dye was getting light in some areas and swirled in others. I called them and they told me that I ruined them using saphir , but I could send them back and they can tell me how much it would cost to repair them. I wish I had at least worn them one time, before this happened. Apparently, the factory is doing something different (or at least cut corners on mine), and doesn't stand behind the shoes. I hope this doesn't happen to anyone else. I won't purchase any other Allen Edmond shoes, because of the product and being told that I ruined them when I conditioned them..
Saphir is one the highest quality shoe creams you can get. I would argue the shoe is to blame not the cream in this case
Too late now of course, but I would take Justin Fitzpatrick's advice to avoid conditioning brand-new shoes. Only do so if the leather begins to look like it needs it.
Saphir renovateur has something in it that certain shoe dyes don't like.
You didn't ruin the shoes, just polish anthem with black shoe polish.
If I stabbed my shoes with scissors trying to trim the laces, they'd say it was my fault.... Because it was.
Renovateur had an effect on my bourbon Fifth Avenues however with some brown polish and a little bit of care, they still look good and have a unique patina.
Not impressed with AE at all especially with what you can now get for your money.