Nice design, and I'm impressed by the high temperatures. Trying to use this in a horizontal sand battery that I'm developing that would use a bench configuration to heat water in stainless steel coils around the exhaust and also heat up the sand bed at the same time.
The vortex stove does work well when it is n song but can be a bit fickle on occasions, a well built and insulated J tubes are extremely reelable ( plenty of example on my channel ) and might suit you need better.
I've often pondered over how to construct a simple mechanism to open a damper door on the secondary air slot so it will open when it gets hot and close when the burn has cooled.
@@foxfish7115 Lol. Ok. Well, if you put it that way.....I'll get back to you. I'll have to look into the inner workings of a thermocouple. There might be something in there that can provide a little leverage.
Thermocouple won't work. I can't think of anything but a bimetal spring to provide the motive force. Or an automotive thermostat, if can figure out a way to make that work that doesn't look like bad steampunk.
@@Boscovius well first I need to get everything working and sized up and them we cam think more about the details. The stove is still in working order but I will soon have to re build a new one, just a few more test runs……
@@Boscovius I see 2 possible solutions, depending upon your skill in Rube Goldberging. 1st simple solution may be to flip bimetal spring over so it acts in different direction, ie clockwise or counterclockwise. 2nd solution is to add a simple reversing lever having center pivot with linkages to each end. A workable solution might need refinements that address the fact that spring torque applied to the reversing lever for lifting damper against gravity load is now working via expansion instead of contraction. Your mileage may vary. 🙃
What about a piece of bicycle chain layed flat between the gap of the secondary air where it can get super hot and heat the secondary air as it passes through the chain holes?
Cast iron with a door of small stove (recovered in forge steel), door in the shape of half-moon, put as a springboard at the bottom of the fireplace, on a BBQ stove brick, I have found that heat follows melting, The flames seems guided by the heat of iron.
Before you revert your secondary air could you try putting a brick in front of where the secondary air enters the flame and see if that helps not mess with the vortex early on? Also, I have had good luck with putting a damper on the stack. It seems to slow things down more than messing with air intake.
There is a chimney damper on my patio stove (last years videos) and it does help , these vortex stoves are sensitive I am trying to make them more user friendly but there are so many things to try out! Thanks for you reply and suggestion.
@fox fish yeah, I have been playing with a few different systems over the years but I haven't tried this style yet so I appreciate the videos. I might try one next year.
Yes secondary air must be hot but the more you heat the secondary air the more it expands and the less O2 it supplies. So hot but not too hot! My secondary air is around 250c, I would like to try 300c
@@mozit6 I am going to try ceramic glass first as I think metal will deform with the hear and cause issues, ceramic glass is very stable and will let the heat through but it might break!
@@foxfish7115 yes, metal does deform and deteriorate if too close too flame and high temps. Dense ceramic materials have high conductivity and heat absorption like steel. Expansion causes cracking in dense ceramics even though they do not melt or spall like steel. If you can increase inlet volume of 2nd air you reduce O2 deficit caused by heat expansion. But close proximity of 2nd air outlet orifice(s) to extreme heat will always be problematic. Of course added pressure and flow could help to cool the orifice and maintain a gap between orifice and flame, similar to a tip on an acetylene torch. But pressure is costly and inconvenient for the pressure and cfm requirements.
@@mozit6 it is working quite well as it is but I will try a few alternatives …… i dont need higher temperatures, the goal is to stop over fueling when adding fresh wood to a hot firebox. The stove works very well but when cooking on the hot plate, I sometimes need to add fuel and that has been an issue.
Love it and watching the progress. Keep them coming
Looking great and sounding ROCKETY!
These things are really sensitive compared to a J tube but yeah getting there!
good work. Thanks for posting.
Nice design, and I'm impressed by the high temperatures. Trying to use this in a horizontal sand battery that I'm developing that would use a bench configuration to heat water in stainless steel coils around the exhaust and also heat up the sand bed at the same time.
The vortex stove does work well when it is n song but can be a bit fickle on occasions, a well built and insulated J tubes are extremely reelable ( plenty of example on my channel ) and might suit you need better.
Thank you for your kind reply. I'll be sure to subscribe and watch your videos on J tube stoves.@@foxfish7115
I've often pondered over how to construct a simple mechanism to open a damper door on the secondary air slot so it will open when it gets hot and close when the burn has cooled.
Well dont stop pondering now…..
@@foxfish7115 Lol. Ok. Well, if you put it that way.....I'll get back to you. I'll have to look into the inner workings of a thermocouple. There might be something in there that can provide a little leverage.
Thermocouple won't work. I can't think of anything but a bimetal spring to provide the motive force. Or an automotive thermostat, if can figure out a way to make that work that doesn't look like bad steampunk.
@@Boscovius well first I need to get everything working and sized up and them we cam think more about the details.
The stove is still in working order but I will soon have to re build a new one, just a few more test runs……
@@Boscovius I see 2 possible solutions, depending upon your skill in Rube Goldberging. 1st simple solution may be to flip bimetal spring over so it acts in different direction, ie clockwise or counterclockwise. 2nd solution is to add a simple reversing lever having center pivot with linkages to each end. A workable solution might need refinements that address the fact that spring torque applied to the reversing lever for lifting damper against gravity load is now working via expansion instead of contraction. Your mileage may vary. 🙃
Very nice!!
What about a piece of bicycle chain layed flat between the gap of the secondary air where it can get super hot and heat the secondary air as it passes through the chain holes?
Cast iron
with a door of small stove (recovered in forge steel),
door in the shape of half-moon,
put as a springboard at the bottom of the fireplace, on a BBQ stove brick,
I have found that heat follows melting,
The flames seems guided by the heat of iron.
I wonder if you could make an automatic feeder with a door that opens when the stove cools using a bimetal spring
Before you revert your secondary air could you try putting a brick in front of where the secondary air enters the flame and see if that helps not mess with the vortex early on?
Also, I have had good luck with putting a damper on the stack. It seems to slow things down more than messing with air intake.
There is a chimney damper on my patio stove (last years videos) and it does help , these vortex stoves are sensitive I am trying to make them more user friendly but there are so many things to try out!
Thanks for you reply and suggestion.
@fox fish yeah, I have been playing with a few different systems over the years but I haven't tried this style yet so I appreciate the videos. I might try one next year.
Have you seen Peter van den Berg's DSR2 and DSR3?
Yes I have, they dont have the same display but are easier to tune.
Did you follow his (Peter's) formula for determining port and firebox, etc., dimensions using the base number ?
This could be a patent
Secondary air must be hot air.
Yes secondary air must be hot but the more you heat the secondary air the more it expands and the less O2 it supplies.
So hot but not too hot!
My secondary air is around 250c, I would like to try 300c
true, and metal conducts heat into the secondary air passageway better than other materials do.
@@mozit6 I am going to try ceramic glass first as I think metal will deform with the hear and cause issues, ceramic glass is very stable and will let the heat through but it might break!
@@foxfish7115 yes, metal does deform and deteriorate if too close too flame and high temps. Dense ceramic materials have high conductivity and heat absorption like steel. Expansion causes cracking in dense ceramics even though they do not melt or spall like steel. If you can increase inlet volume of 2nd air you reduce O2 deficit caused by heat expansion. But close proximity of 2nd air outlet orifice(s) to extreme heat will always be problematic. Of course added pressure and flow could help to cool the orifice and maintain a gap between orifice and flame, similar to a tip on an acetylene torch. But pressure is costly and inconvenient for the pressure and cfm requirements.
@@mozit6 it is working quite well as it is but I will try a few alternatives …… i dont need higher temperatures, the goal is to stop over fueling
when adding fresh wood to a hot firebox.
The stove works very well but when cooking on the hot plate, I sometimes need to add fuel and that has been an issue.
a une forme Volonté