Thank you Shane. I did the bleed but didn’t realise you had to pump the lever to complete the job? So I started again from scratch for the same result! Arrgghh! When I pumped the lever to finish the job all was swell. Your tip saved the day. Thanks again.
Like a pro! Better than any meditation video available, everything is right in the universe 🧘♂️ (Just picked up that Shimano tool myself... just need a new bike to build 😬)
I did this myself just a week ago! New Cervelo Aspero brake lines were too long after lowering the bars. I shorten at the caliper side so I didn't have to remove the bar tape.
Pro Tip: Keep track of the o-rings in the bleed port cover and the funnel (they each come with one). It's easy to end up with zero or two, when you should only have one.
Wow great job and great video. You have a knack for making a complex job look so tranquil. This plus some of the advice in the comments has given me the confidence to try this myself.
1 year later, I finally need your video as a reference. Thanks to you and ROJ, this should go without a hitch. My new TCR has enough brake hose for 2 frames.
Hi Shane! Long time follower here. As an experienced mechanic I’ll confirm a few things: I always use the block. But before pushing the pistons in, I try to clean them as much as possible in order to not damage the seals with dirt and particles. - I’d use a spare lenght of regular brake or shift housing to measure the desired lenght before cutting the actual hose - the BBB bleed kit is fantastic for Shimano (but you have the original kit now) - most people will strip the bleed port screw on the levers, be patient and careful :) - (I hate to say it: your bar tape is wrapped backward on the top 🤣) I hope It helps for your next brake maintenance session 🙏🏼 (You can see the BBB bleed tool in my latest video) Cheers ✌🏻
Comments like this are brilliant - I checked out the BBB bleed kit and loved the way it operated. Bought one myself and will use it this week to set up my first hydraulic brakeset. Thanks for the suggestion.
One question for pro mechanic please: i am planing to do the same job but rather cutting the hose from the calliper than from the sti levers. Is that fine or?
Make sure the pistons are super squeaky clean before you push them back to prevent the dirt getting behind the seals. Use cotton swabs and some clean mineral oil and the pistons slide in better as well. These look alright but while you're in there you might as well do it properly.
When pouring from a bottle with an offset opening, such as your oil bottle, position the opening at the top of the pour (opposite of 7:35 ) which will allow the the air replacing the fluid to enter smoothly and avoid the "glug glug".
I'm new to bike building but I memorized two things from watching several videos. 1) Before cutting a hose, when measuring the length, remember to turn the handlebars to determine the correct length then 2) keep a little length if you are 140 at the front because if one day, you wish to pass in 160, you would be very happy to have this extra length.
That dedicated tool.is gold and I'd seriously consider buying it if I did regular hose jobs. Oh and tks for not using a manic sound track in the background.
FYI, to push back the calliper pistons I use 2 hard wood (oak) wedges in opposition. These ensure the pistons are pushed back parallel to the calliper sides and do to not damage the pistons.
Hi Shane, noticed your lever is still a little spongy after a few squeezes, try cable tying the lever to the bar overnight to firm up the pressure, gravity will take place and any air still in the system will rise to the top and stay there..👍 nice job btw..
Good vid. I only have hydraulic brakes on my CAADX and I'm always surprised at how much lever travel there is before the pads engage the disc on the road. I like my pads set close to the rim on my rim brake bikes. Still, another topic for another day. Thanks for uploading Shane.
I had to do this with my new bike. Not only because I installed a narrower handlebar but also because the brakes where configurated wrongly (left/right vs front/rear) to what I´m used to. I had to repeat the bleading procedure because my shifter wasn´t at the perfect angle to bleed with the bucket on top.
Shane, I also used the ball end of my allen key when opening the bleed screw. Unfortuantely, the screw was probably overtightened by my mechanic during install: The ball broke off the allen key and jammed in the screw. Two lessons there.... and much swearing/butchering required.
If you use a bike bag for travel an addition check of cable length is needed to ensure you can remove your bars and rotate to the correct position in your bike bag. The bike shop offered me nice neat short cables that I thought were great till the first time I went to pack my bike in my Evoc bike bag!
Nicely done. From my experience there is not an unique way to bleed the brakes...sometimes you just need to pull the levers sometimes you need to push and pull from the calipers, sometimes you need to pull the bubbles from the funnel and sometimes a combination of everything :D
Good job man.....not a bad job for "home" mechanic!! Next (level) time you should try hidden cables with new bars and stem from FSA.....?? AERO is everything, right...??
One thing to remember, if shortening your front brake hose, is don't go too crazy and then find you don't have enough spare length to drop your forks out.
Yeah... Been there, done that... NOT the hydraulic brake line resizing... the finding a job to do so I could buy ANOTHER NEW TOOL!!!!! nyuk! nyuk! nyuk!
Is there any particular reason you chose to shorten the line at the brake lever, rather than the bottom at the caliper? I would think shortening the caliper end would be easier, not having to re-tape.
Question: why did you decide to cut the top rather than by the brake caliper? I'm working on changing the fork with a front GRX that threads through the fork. And deciding whether it's easier to thread from the top or bottom. If I cut at the caliper, I thread from the top and give a full bleed but don't rewrap the handlebar. If I cut at the top, I wrap the bar and still have to bleed. I have a set of cable cutters and tube cutters available but not the specific tool.
I did this on my Specialized Diverge & my local bike shop mechanic curses me for it each time I bring my bike in for work. I think it makes it look neater, but he reckons there's not enough slack to remove/move parts. I reckon I know better because I ride it like that way more than he ever works on it.
There's no point in doing the full fork rotation at the end. It should have been done before cutting the line. ;) Also, should have done the few squeezes to reseat the brake pads on the disk before removing the cup, so that the line fills with liquid completely. ;)
Given the bars/fork don't move, it wasn't required at all. All for show... and to be sure I really didn't screw up. ;) The rear will require it before cutting.
I have Shimano GXR 810 hydraulic but it didn't come with that brake block piece. Instead, it came with a thin block, the thickness of the disc. Where do I buy that yellow brake block?
I’m sure you got your answer already, and the answer is no, not at all. With normal olive you can just hold the hose in place without crushing it (shimano sells pads for this, maybe something else can work too) and then hammer the olive in. Cut can be made with box knife
Hey bud, the video was supper informative. However, your flange nut seems to be really easy to get it flushed with the shifter housing. Mine was done pretty tight up but there was still a visible gap between the flange nut and the body. Would this be a problem ? I've been riding with it for weeks without any issue, but just better to be safe than sorry.
Hi Shane, thanks for this video. I have few questions 1. Do I need the same tools and parts for a dura ace di2 12 speed ? 2. I only want to change my handlebar from a 40 to 38 which has internally routed cables, do I still need to cut the cables when rerouting internally through the new handlebar? Basically I bought a new bike with dura ace di2 system but came with a 42 cm internally routed aero handlebar, this bar is too wide for me and I want to swap it with a 38cm without bleeding or doing anything else to a brand new system.
@@gplama its a venge with a roval rapide handlebars, so it's not completely internally routing through the stem. It's only the handlebar thats internally routed. If your answer is yes then: 1.if I cut the cables with existing olive and barb and put in new olive and barb inserts, can the cables be reinstalled without bleeding the system or putting in additional fluid? Do you have a video of this process?
@@jhugle8106 Yes. You can drain it or leave it in there when working on it (by capping the ends). Shimano is easier to work with as it's just mineral oil, not DOT fluid.
Can I do it from the caliper instead from the shifters? I hire 3 bike mechanics to do the job but they ending up cracking the shifters. They wont cover it since the bike is 2nd hand 😢
They usually keep them long enough to accomodate the widest bars and highest stems people are likely to use. There's no real harm in longer cables. Shorter cables will need replacing if they're too short for any bar/stem swap.
@@gplama thanks for the reply. 😊 Maybe stick to the 25mm for the front at least, to stick closer to the 105% rule, considering your hunt rim has a 27mm OD. Unless you really prefer/wanna try the 28mm nominal. For the back, the aero factor, shouldn’t matter as much.
If you look at the MTB forums, there’s alternatives to the shimano mineral oil. I’ve been using Penrite LHM+ for a long time in my MTB brakes. A lot cheaper than the shimano oil.
@@neilwheel but you would need to do full bleed since you would need to let all the mineral oil out, i guess. The suction would probably hold most of it in but still longer way for bubbles to go and more chances of it trapping somewher.
That silly tool is £50 in the UK! Gotta love the bike industry, always inventing ways to rip off the lay mechanic. You can use cable cutters, then a vice and a hammer for the barb.
Great video! Would however use the method of pushing the fluid through the system. Like shown in picture 4 from www.bikeradar.com/advice/workshop/how-to-bleed-shimano-disc-brakes/.
@@gplama done a bunch of shimano bleeds on both mtb and RS685 road shifters. The good news is that shimano usually lets you get away with a half-arsed effort and still be mostly ok but it will annoy you eventually with wandering bite point. The better news is that a full up,down,shifter grab bleed exactly per the dealer manuals from si.shimano.com is not that difficult and makes brakes simply awesome
Clear and concise. I would advise checking hose length and routing by turning the bars back and forth BEFORE cutting anything and reviewing this th-cam.com/video/5MzIiv7pewE/w-d-xo.html to improve your bar taping skills. Cheers!
Thank you Shane. I did the bleed but didn’t realise you had to pump the lever to complete the job? So I started again from scratch for the same result! Arrgghh! When I pumped the lever to finish the job all was swell. Your tip saved the day. Thanks again.
Like a pro! Better than any meditation video available, everything is right in the universe 🧘♂️
(Just picked up that Shimano tool myself... just need a new bike to build 😬)
Didn't expect to see you here...
I did this myself just a week ago! New Cervelo Aspero brake lines were too long after lowering the bars. I shorten at the caliper side so I didn't have to remove the bar tape.
Same but Shane was looking at a different hose pathway so I can see why he did that.
Pro Tip: Keep track of the o-rings in the bleed port cover and the funnel (they each come with one). It's easy to end up with zero or two, when you should only have one.
Wow great job and great video. You have a knack for making a complex job look so tranquil. This plus some of the advice in the comments has given me the confidence to try this myself.
Thanks 👍
1 year later, I finally need your video as a reference. Thanks to you and ROJ, this should go without a hitch. My new TCR has enough brake hose for 2 frames.
Thanks Mr Miller. Finally managed to find a right hand GRX shifter and caliper to complete my gravel build. The tool list is especially handy.
Hi Shane! Long time follower here.
As an experienced mechanic I’ll confirm a few things:
I always use the block. But before pushing the pistons in, I try to clean them as much as possible in order to not damage the seals with dirt and particles.
- I’d use a spare lenght of regular brake or shift housing to measure the desired lenght before cutting the actual hose
- the BBB bleed kit is fantastic for Shimano (but you have the original kit now)
- most people will strip the bleed port screw on the levers, be patient and careful :)
- (I hate to say it: your bar tape is wrapped backward on the top 🤣)
I hope It helps for your next brake maintenance session 🙏🏼
(You can see the BBB bleed tool in my latest video)
Cheers ✌🏻
yeah i saw that and was like "dude your bar tape is wrapped wrong"
Can’t find your video Andreas... do u have a link?
@@thedownunderverse Specialized Aethos S-Works dream build - the lightest disc brake bike in the world? - 1080hd
Comments like this are brilliant - I checked out the BBB bleed kit and loved the way it operated. Bought one myself and will use it this week to set up my first hydraulic brakeset. Thanks for the suggestion.
One question for pro mechanic please: i am planing to do the same job but rather cutting the hose from the calliper than from the sti levers. Is that fine or?
Quality. Well done. Looking at a bike build in Jan / Feb 2021. Seems quite easy now you’ve broken it down to such small increments. Thanks.
Good job Shane. Much better now. I can't believe Giant would sell a bike with a line like that. I love my Émonda with hidden lines.
it's like that coz he lowered / slammed the stem.
Make sure the pistons are super squeaky clean before you push them back to prevent the dirt getting behind the seals. Use cotton swabs and some clean mineral oil and the pistons slide in better as well. These look alright but while you're in there you might as well do it properly.
When pouring from a bottle with an offset opening, such as your oil bottle, position the opening at the top of the pour (opposite of 7:35 ) which will allow the the air replacing the fluid to enter smoothly and avoid the "glug glug".
well done video. Calm clear narration, good video presentation. really appreciate the attached links to parts and tools.
cheers
Great video Shane. You make it look very straightforward and doable, nice one.
I'm new to bike building but I memorized two things from watching several videos. 1) Before cutting a hose, when measuring the length, remember to turn the handlebars to determine the correct length then 2) keep a little length if you are 140 at the front because if one day, you wish to pass in 160, you would be very happy to have this extra length.
That dedicated tool.is gold and I'd seriously consider buying it if I did regular hose jobs. Oh and tks for not using a manic sound track in the background.
FYI, to push back the calliper pistons I use 2 hard wood (oak) wedges in opposition. These ensure the pistons are pushed back parallel to the calliper sides and do to not damage the pistons.
I've been annoyed by one of my brake lines for a year... maybe I'll finally do this over the winter... and cut that steerer tube! Nice video!
Looks good for you, but I would make sure that the brake line doesn't rub on the head tube when the handle bars are turned right.
Hi Shane, noticed your lever is still a little spongy after a few squeezes, try cable tying the lever to the bar overnight to firm up the pressure, gravity will take place and any air still in the system will rise to the top and stay there..👍 nice job btw..
May have to do the same on my bike now having watched this. Been eager to get into doing more work on my own rather than using a shop.
I decided similar about 4-5 years ago. Now I have a lot of tools and thoroughly enjoy working on my own bikes! Can’t recommend highly enough
Good vid. I only have hydraulic brakes on my CAADX and I'm always surprised at how much lever travel there is before the pads engage the disc on the road. I like my pads set close to the rim on my rim brake bikes. Still, another topic for another day. Thanks for uploading Shane.
Thanks for the video. I just got my new TCR and they left way too much cable. So I was about to do exactly the same thing. This helps out greatly.
Wow, real-life maintenance.Good.
I'm always rooting for you.
In Korea~~^^~
I had to do this with my new bike. Not only because I installed a narrower handlebar but also because the brakes where configurated wrongly (left/right vs front/rear) to what I´m used to.
I had to repeat the bleading procedure because my shifter wasn´t at the perfect angle to bleed with the bucket on top.
Shane, I also used the ball end of my allen key when opening the bleed screw. Unfortuantely, the screw was probably overtightened by my mechanic during install: The ball broke off the allen key and jammed in the screw. Two lessons there.... and much swearing/butchering required.
Ouch!
I love this tool 😍 (and pedro's open ended disc spanner/wrench)
If you use a bike bag for travel an addition check of cable length is needed to ensure you can remove your bars and rotate to the correct position in your bike bag. The bike shop offered me nice neat short cables that I thought were great till the first time I went to pack my bike in my Evoc bike bag!
Great tip!
Excellent job Shane. You did that like a pro. Love that brake hose tool.
Fantastic video!! Helped me a lot! Its almost too easy with your video!! thx mate!!!
Nicely done. From my experience there is not an unique way to bleed the brakes...sometimes you just need to pull the levers sometimes you need to push and pull from the calipers, sometimes you need to pull the bubbles from the funnel and sometimes a combination of everything :D
one of the reasons I love my bike is hidden cables. I don't even need to think about these things.
I like the bike stand. Checking on a new purchase opportunity.
when you unscrewed the cable from the shifter why didn't any fluid come out?
Some did. There’s not a lot in the system.
Good job man.....not a bad job for "home" mechanic!! Next (level) time you should try hidden cables with new bars and stem from FSA.....?? AERO is everything, right...??
One thing to remember, if shortening your front brake hose, is don't go too crazy and then find you don't have enough spare length to drop your forks out.
Yeah... Been there, done that... NOT the hydraulic brake line resizing... the finding a job to do so I could buy ANOTHER NEW TOOL!!!!! nyuk! nyuk! nyuk!
Is there any particular reason you chose to shorten the line at the brake lever, rather than the bottom at the caliper? I would think shortening the caliper end would be easier, not having to re-tape.
Useful video - just got my 2022 TCR and this brake hose is already irritating me!
Question: why did you decide to cut the top rather than by the brake caliper?
I'm working on changing the fork with a front GRX that threads through the fork. And deciding whether it's easier to thread from the top or bottom.
If I cut at the caliper, I thread from the top and give a full bleed but don't rewrap the handlebar.
If I cut at the top, I wrap the bar and still have to bleed.
I have a set of cable cutters and tube cutters available but not the specific tool.
Air bubbles rise up. Better to cut at the top than at the bottom where air may be introduced into the system requiring a more thorough brake bleed.
Front brake on the right side? Ozzie thing or personal?
Every bike I owned in NZ was the same. Apparently it's British Standard.
It's a 'which side of the road' thing. Left hand side = front right. Right hand side = front left.
You could sell that bottle of mineral oil for thousands here in Spain. They've been out of stock for months and months now.
I got baby mineral oil I'm willing to sell for that price 🤣🤣
I've got a almost full.bottle here.
I spoke to a rider who messed up a brake bleed and put chain lube in there instead and the brakes work great he said!!!
I did this on my Specialized Diverge & my local bike shop mechanic curses me for it each time I bring my bike in for work. I think it makes it look neater, but he reckons there's not enough slack to remove/move parts. I reckon I know better because I ride it like that way more than he ever works on it.
He's not happy because it makes his life harder..... not quite the 'customer first' attitude there. 🤣
great video thanks. Yes, the bar tape job is not the best
Did you drain the whole system or just cut and top up fluid?
Great! Thank you Shane!
There's no point in doing the full fork rotation at the end. It should have been done before cutting the line. ;)
Also, should have done the few squeezes to reseat the brake pads on the disk before removing the cup, so that the line fills with liquid completely. ;)
Given the bars/fork don't move, it wasn't required at all. All for show... and to be sure I really didn't screw up. ;) The rear will require it before cutting.
I have Shimano GXR 810 hydraulic but it didn't come with that brake block piece. Instead, it came with a thin block, the thickness of the disc. Where do I buy that yellow brake block?
Jakiego smaru użyłeś do smarowania oliwy z oliwek?
Where does Shimano recommend greasing anything? Especially olives which interface with brake fluid, grease will contaminate it.
si.shimano.com/en/dm/GADBR01/replace_brake_hose
@@gplama respektos
Dude - Great vid. Thanks for the inspiration and confidence.
Good lunch video (shows what kind of a weirdo I am)
Love your videos, so helpful!
Do you absolutely need that special tool for the hose cutting and barb installation?
I’m sure you got your answer already, and the answer is no, not at all. With normal olive you can just hold the hose in place without crushing it (shimano sells pads for this, maybe something else can work too) and then hammer the olive in. Cut can be made with box knife
@@J0uzer thanks. I ended up getting an AliExpress tool. Worked like a charm
Hey bud, the video was supper informative. However, your flange nut seems to be really easy to get it flushed with the shifter housing.
Mine was done pretty tight up but there was still a visible gap between the flange nut and the body. Would this be a problem ? I've been riding with it for weeks without any issue, but just better to be safe than sorry.
Hi Shane, thanks for this video. I have few questions
1. Do I need the same tools and parts for a dura ace di2 12 speed ?
2. I only want to change my handlebar from a 40 to 38 which has internally routed cables, do I still need to cut the cables when rerouting internally through the new handlebar?
Basically I bought a new bike with dura ace di2 system but came with a 42 cm internally routed aero handlebar, this bar is too wide for me and I want to swap it with a 38cm without bleeding or doing anything else to a brand new system.
1. Yes.
2. It depends on the bike.
@@gplama its a venge with a roval rapide handlebars, so it's not completely internally routing through the stem. It's only the handlebar thats internally routed. If your answer is yes then:
1.if I cut the cables with existing olive and barb and put in new olive and barb inserts, can the cables be reinstalled without bleeding the system or putting in additional fluid?
Do you have a video of this process?
Great video Llama
Thanks!
Wait till you start working on SRAM. Hair pulling may ensue
Shane’s a step ahead with his hairstyle
Do you really not need to remove the brake oil before cutting the hoses, or did I miss something?
Yes, you don’t need to remove oil
I have a question, can the cable be disassembled without emptying the brake fluid circuit? Thank you
I’m not sure what you mean. There’s no cables as such, just hoses.
@@gplama What I mean is if there is brake fluid inside the hose? Thanks
@@jhugle8106 Yes. You can drain it or leave it in there when working on it (by capping the ends). Shimano is easier to work with as it's just mineral oil, not DOT fluid.
I crossthreaded mine. 180euro blown away. I recommend to loosen the caliper. Its easier to keep the hose straight while tightening.
why do you have the right side for the front brake? Seem backwards.
It's how things are setup in countries where we ride/drive on the left.
Thanks. Great info.
Great video. Do you ever use liquid silicon or oil on the pistons?
I didn't for this job. I haven't seen that mentioned anywhere. If it's best practice then I'll look into it.
@@gplama thanks
Here is a video from Hope showing the process :
th-cam.com/video/v83YFGi5uT0/w-d-xo.html
Can I do it from the caliper instead from the shifters? I hire 3 bike mechanics to do the job but they ending up cracking the shifters. They wont cover it since the bike is 2nd hand 😢
Sure but you'll likely introduce air into the lines doing it this way.
Well put together step by step tutorial 🙏🏻....
Cheers! There's a few additional tips here in the comments that are worth noting too.
The same work is waiting for me.... Why they always are putting so long cables?
They usually keep them long enough to accomodate the widest bars and highest stems people are likely to use. There's no real harm in longer cables. Shorter cables will need replacing if they're too short for any bar/stem swap.
Next step, shrink wrap the rear brake hose and the Di2 cable!
Nice job. Thanks
Way to go! What size contis are you running, if I may ask?
25. I have a set of 28 ready to I install.... if they’ll fit.
@@gplama thanks for the reply. 😊 Maybe stick to the 25mm for the front at least, to stick closer to the 105% rule, considering your hunt rim has a 27mm OD. Unless you really prefer/wanna try the 28mm nominal. For the back, the aero factor, shouldn’t matter as much.
I think you should buy the 2023 propel n move the new di2 to that
They look 👌🏼
If you look at the MTB forums, there’s alternatives to the shimano mineral oil. I’ve been using Penrite LHM+ for a long time in my MTB brakes. A lot cheaper than the shimano oil.
Can I consider this video actually relaxing? lol
Hi Shane, whats the cage on your rear mech?
CeramicSpeed OSPW.
I am planning on doing the same thing but thought I would shorten the caliper end of the hose is that a bad idea?
You spill more fluid
Is that the Fabric Knurl bartape?
BBB FlexRibbon.
nice video. god, please bring back rim brakes for road bikes.
Great video. By the way, are you planning to do a follow up video about your Hunt wheels ?
Eventually, yep.
@@gplama Just to know your feeling about it, are you happy with those wheels? Would you recommand it ?
@@tibusitus They are still on the bike after a year. They ride well... there's pros and cons I'll discuss when I cover them in depth.
Well that was a lot less stress than going tubeless!
I have another set of road tubeless tyres to install..... grab 🍿! 🤣
why is your front brake is installed on your right hand?
Countries that drive/ride on the left side of the road are setup like this.
@@gplama ah ok, i understand
thank you.
Why right side for front brake?
AU/UK/NZ drive on the left. Related to that.
Very good Video.
Nice work!
very usefull video thanks
even I can handle a couple of "squeezies" :), great video!
Why did you cut the line at the lever end? cutting at the caliper end would have been quicker - no tape to undo & retape!
It'd require a full bleed/un-bubble from the bottom up, I assume. I thought this would be less risky as my first time messing with hydraulics.
@@gplama Bubbles only go one way.
@@neilwheel but you would need to do full bleed since you would need to let all the mineral oil out, i guess. The suction would probably hold most of it in but still longer way for bubbles to go and more chances of it trapping somewher.
@@davidkosi7662 never had to do it. like you say, suction comes into play here and you'll be shortening the line, not lengthening it.
@@neilwheelYou would be surprised how little air you need for brakes to feel squishy.
The anxiety I get when considering these sorts of jobs is not my ability but the expense of the specialist tools required!!
Expensive specialist tools should make up for any lack of ability. They did in this instance! ;)
@@gplama next video will be facing the front and rear caliper mounts with the Park Tool DT-5.2. Looking forward to that video!🤣
@@TheCrossroads09 Niiiiice.... wait.... look at the price of that thing!? Crikey!
I'd like to do this myself but the cost of the tools and brake fluid is too high for basically one time use. It's cheaper to get a shop to do it.
Certainly looks a lot better but I still would be getting a mechanic (or you) to do this on my bike.
Top tip.👍
That silly tool is £50 in the UK! Gotta love the bike industry, always inventing ways to rip off the lay mechanic.
You can use cable cutters, then a vice and a hammer for the barb.
This video is a few years old, but you could have easily integrated these lines into the frame with no exposed cables at all
The 2019 TCR doesn't allow for internal cable routing of the brake hoses.
Yes it does @@gplama Ive done a few of them.
@@alvaroodeh4794 With which fork/bars/stem?
I would have left the bar tape alone and shortened the other end of the hose, down near the caliper.
Gravity was against me for that. It may have introduced air that would require a whole bleed.
You really covered the wire with duct tape
You could have cut the hose from the caliper line. Would have made life easier, without removing the bar tape etc.
Great video! Would however use the method of pushing the fluid through the system. Like shown in picture 4 from www.bikeradar.com/advice/workshop/how-to-bleed-shimano-disc-brakes/.
A full bleed might be next time. I'm just starting out. :)
@@gplama done a bunch of shimano bleeds on both mtb and RS685 road shifters. The good news is that shimano usually lets you get away with a half-arsed effort and still be mostly ok but it will annoy you eventually with wandering bite point. The better news is that a full up,down,shifter grab bleed exactly per the dealer manuals from si.shimano.com is not that difficult and makes brakes simply awesome
Half bleed, usually referred to as a burp.
Burp. Got it. 👍🏼 All these new technical terms to learn. :)
Clear and concise. I would advise checking hose length and routing by turning the bars back and forth BEFORE cutting anything and reviewing this th-cam.com/video/5MzIiv7pewE/w-d-xo.html to improve your bar taping skills. Cheers!
Squeezing the brake to the bar lol, yeh that works really well 😅
I can shorten the cables on my rim brakes in less than 5 min, no special tools needed (not sure about the air bubbles though).