Key point. ASK if you can remove the engine cover, and if they say no, ask why not. Don't just rip it off and expect the seller to stand there and not say anything.
Don’t forget the classic trick of covering up the check engine light. Turn the key to on but don’t start it. Check engine light will be on. If not, huge red flag.
And also airbag and ABS light. People have bought crashed cars where they didn't replace the airbag and just disconnected the light. Some of those people died in car crashes later...
@@JoeUrbanYYC The good news is, scan tools are getting super cheap. Which means, they can disconnect the Check Engine light all day long, all the codes will still show up if you check the car with a scan tool.
The best advice I ever got about buying used cars was to be very careful about buying a car that was just running or is when you arrive. There's a good chance they are hiding something
@@diallo1347 this is bad advice a " few minutes " is not enough time for the engine to cool off completely and witnessing a cold start is paramount feel the engine climb underneath feel the exhaust check the cats etc ..or walk away ..
as someone who worked in the automotive industry for 10 years as a parts guy. I can tell you that they use the cheapest parts available they do the least possible and they call it a safety lol. They then turn around and up the price four five thousand dollars more than what they pay for the car. Always take the car to another mechanic do not trust dealerships
Very helpful! Just one more to add: the parking lot test. Park directly next to a painted line in the parking lot and then look at the reflection in the side of the car. If the (straight) line is all distorted and wavy, the car had impact damage. Doesn’t matter if they used filler and the paint is smooth as such, you will still see it.
@@nicholaswildethethird you missed my point. The OP essentially said that no matter how well a repair is done, it's impossible to get it back to factory specs and you will be able to tell it's been repaired. This is not true.
@@CadillacDriverUnless you’re planning on spending stupid money or have the skill and time to get it back original as possible. OP’s advice is good for the average joe to look out for. That’s the point you’re missing.
@@Iridiumcosmos what the hell? I'm not missing any "point" - YOU are. Another absolute plank who reads one thing, but sees something completely different. READ my posts again. Read them slowly and carefully until you understand what I'm saying.
I always take a car to the dealership for a “pre-purchase” inspection. Dealer mechanics tend to know the specific weaknesses of a particular model that won’t show up in diagnostic codes. These inspections are very thorough. And they include a list of any needed repairs and a parts list and the cost of the repairs. A good investment of $250. If you’re too far from a dealership, consult a trusted mechanic. If the seller won’t allow this inspection, walk away.
@@AfricaGeodrove my car to an independent mechanic shop during the test drive. The dealer went with me - he had agreed to it before I showed up to check out the car. I wasn't going to give him my business if he didn't agree to the inspection!
One thing I look for when looking on used cars is whether both headlights are equally as faded. If one headlight is crystal clear and the other one is a bit foggy that’s a good indication that the car was in an accident.
Not to mention headlights can be sanded and reclearcoated to look new.. or a 3 m restoration kit $30 parts store or temporarily clean by running a buffer over it
Or you can use the Hoovie "Car Issues" approach: show up, rev the engine twice, shake hands, hand over an envelope of ca$h, and leave. Takes substantially less time.
19:30 The one thing you missed is before you start the engine just turn on the key and make sure all the bulbs light up particularly the check engine bulb. A lot of times people will remove them but of course your code scanner should pick that up. But you should check all the bulbs in the dash
@@DannyTOG well exactly! That’s why you should check for that sort of thing it could just be burned out but you want to make sure that it is working or at least to be aware if it’s not.
@@wakeywakey8603yes. The truck I bought had an oil change sticker on. By mileage on that sticker...the oil change was "in the future ". Somehow the truck lost 5000 miles.
This is often true. I bought a 170k mile 2006 prius last year and the owner already had it running. It ran decent, but not perfect. The next day when I picked up and paid for the car, the seller had it running again. The next morning, I was greeted with a surprise on cold start. It took 2 start attempts before it reluctantly started and ran very rough for a couple minutes, before it mostly smoothed out. During that first 2 minutes, it sounded like a jackhammer and had obvious misfires. The engine oil was fresh, but I suspected the oil changes had been neglected for a long time. The dipstick had heavy varnish on it. After a motor flush that got A LOT of gunk out of the engine and some fresh spark plugs, it ran way better. After 8 more short-interval oil changes with marvel mystery oil, it is healthy again. On the first few MMO-laced oil changes, the oil turned black in a matter of days. Now, at 184k miles, it runs as it should, even on cold start. I thought for sure I'd be swapping an engine in this car. I'll bet the previous owner thought the same. I got lucky with just a tune-up and clean-up fixing it. The joke's on him, as it's now worth 2x what I paid for it.
@@Brandon_Nelson92 Mmo in every used car I buy! I add it to the gas at every fill up , and in the 1st few oil changes, & along with new plugs, those engines run great!
@@russellhltn1396 when I bought my prius, I met the dude in a shopping center, both when I first drove it and when I met him again the next day to pay for it and pick it up. When selling a cheap car, I schedule the meet-up in a public place with video surveillance for safety/security reasons. I understand why the seller of my prius did the same, except it also allowed him to hide the engine problems.
One other thing is make sure the engine is cold when you get there. If its already warmed up walk away. Some cars seem fine when warmed up, but cold they are completely different. I had an Audi that ran fine once it was warmed up, but when it was cold was really hard to start.
No title, no deal. That's good advice. Years ago, I bought a bike from a guy who didn't have the paperwork handy, but a mutual friend vouched for him. The promised paperwork kept taking longer and longer to arrive... Eventually it worked out, I got the ownership a couple of months later. But for that time, I couldn't register it or do anything with it, and didn't know if I ever could. So in case it's not clear, no title, NO DEAL!
I've been looking at bikes for quite some time on Facebook Marketplace and some of them be saying they don't have the title. I be wondering why folks be having these bikes and no title, I just instantly think they're stolen. They also always claim that you can just go to the DMV and get it, then the question comes to mind for me "Why didn't the seller just go and get the title themselves before trying to sell the bike?" Wouldn't that make more sense?
@@bman409 It may or may not be stolen, but the title is a crucial bit of paperwork. If someone can't keep track of that, I'd wonder what else is wrong. In any case, there would be legal and procedural hoops to jump through, which are a headache.
@@eyerollthereforeiam1709 Right, but what I'm trying to get at is that I shouldn't have to be going through all that when the seller could've just did it themselves. It saves the headache for both parties. Anyone with common sense is gonna ask about the title. No, title.. I'ma just assume you're hiding something. Another thing that they do on Marketplace that I've noticed is that they never take pictures of the interior. So when I message them and ask about the interior, they always tell me the same thing "Oh I don't have any at the moment, but I will when I get off work or have time" like really? You had time to put up the ad with 6+ pictures of the body and even wrote a paragraph about the car but can't provide interior pictures?! So after I ask about the pictures, they come back to me about it. I don't even respond again cause that shows me that they're not trying to sell that car for real.
Section 1.2 - Current registration. You could find a car with a clean title and they haven't registered it for 5 years. You will be on the hook for past registration, fees, penalties, etc. Also, when I go to look at a car I talk myself into not wanting it before I look at it. After inspection, if enough boxes get checked I may change my mind. Much better than going into this with " i want this car I want this car I want this car" and after you get home saying "I wish I never bought this car."
*You can be scammed with the coolant reservoir/expansion tank. I've seen where they will clean it out real nice, then they will take off the hose and plug it off with something, put the hose back on with the restriction in it, then fill it with clean fluid. Looks can be deceiving and they do this to hide a serious problem. Pop that hose off and check it if you're suspicious about it.*
I went to MD to NJ myself, as a woman, to purchase an Eclipse. I purchased a cheap code reader before I left. Put the code reader in the eclipse. I forgot what code came on but I called my mechanic and cousin with the code. They both said it was the catalytic converter. He wasn’t willing to bargain is what he told me when i initially asked. I walked away from the headache from the one small investment. Obviously the code had been turned off but the issue not fixed.
It’s actually good to rev it if you have another person/camera looking at the engine. If it moves out of place at all, it likely has a broken motor mount. Unexpected engine movement can lead to dozens of problems. Water/vacuum hose stress, wire stress, etc.
Wizard! I’m not into cars,but Jeeps But somehow you keep me interested. I really just like your car wizard show. I have boats also. Just wanted to tell you , and your family, The wizard family is amazing! Be honest just lost of words.
I walked away from a vehicle the minute I opened up the oil cap. I looked into the valve cover and all I saw was white milk. More important than most of the other stuff. I am surprised the car wizard did not mention this Major Red Flag.....
Coolant in the oil could also be a bad intake gasket. But even if the gasket and fluids are replaced, there's a pretty good chance that all the bearings in the bottom end are gone. Just walk away. Also, look for varnish on the oil dip-stick. If there's varnish there, the car has missed too many oil changes. Walk away.
So this one is actually not as much of a red flag as you might think IF it’s in the middle of winter. My 2007 Chevy impala oil cap looks like milk in the middle of winter but during the summer its dry.
Barely 3 minutes in and I can concede that I do not know how to buy a car 😂 I will definitely be watching this a few times to get the information stuck in my mind for when I do, I will be finding a mechanic to pay for him to look it over and make a recommendation, thank you sir
@@frznrrfan.frznrrfan102The Mechanics here in Nigeria are often buddies with the guys at the dealership, so for the most part you're in for a long haul 😂😂😂😂 There's no getting out of that one.
I bought a car, thought I was real smart to check under the oil fill cap for water. I was so focused on that, I didn’t realize the paint underneath the hood was a different color. Fortunately even ‘tho it had been in an accident, it was ok and someone actually did decent body work!
I would always check the tires. Worn tires are one thing, but uneven wear indicates that something is up with the suspension. And if the tire brands don't match, or it is running a budget brand that you've never even heard of, you know that the owner has tried to run it on a shoestring budget.
One thing I would add is do a proper research of the model, find what usually goes wrong with it and make sure most of those problems have sorted alredy, otherwise thing can get really expensive. For example: old Mercedes CL or S class - ABC suspension. Jaguar XJ8/XK8 chain tensioners. Northstar engine - headgasket and so on.
Tip for cars with part-time 4WD. Put it in 4L and 4H to make sure the front end doesn’t have drivetrain issues and that the transfer case is engaging/working
Videos like this are GOLD. Car buying from a private seller can really be a hassle with some seller's. It's like they expect you to do the old school approach (check the oil and kick the tires and your good to go)
Sadly I can say I’ve made multiple mistakes mentioned in this video 😅 I bought a used Jeep from a guy who I knew from high school. He didn’t have the title at the time, but assured me it was in transit from the DMV… safe to say it wasn’t. I was too trusting because I thought I knew him, but ultimately I paid the price.
@@aussie2uGA depends on the state, but in CA as long as you have a signed Bill of Sale you can obtain a title as long as the previous owners records match the DMV.
@@YumboYack2521 California buyers should double check that with DMV. If that was ever true, I don't think it is anymore. Now you can't even get a duplicate California title without a notarized application.
Since bumper covers, especially unpainted ones, can pop right back out, It could also be a good idea to look in the trunk for damage. Lift the trunk floor and check that there's no damage to the rear structure. Personally I would also be cautious if the engine bay is showroom clean. Makes me wonder if they're trying to hide leaks. Maybe also unscrew the oil fill cap and check for "chocolate milk".
Your comment that a very clean "power barn" is a sign of hidden problems may not indicate that seller is hiding problems. I personally try to keep the engine bays of my vehicles NEAR "showroom clean", by "hand detailing" (NOT power washing) on a monthly basis. My vehicle is only driven during good weather (I am retired, don't drive much) so keeping the vehicle detailed adds to my driving enjoyment and is relatively easy to do. I am driving LESS but enjoying it MORE!
These Daytonas are fairly rare but there are about 20 in my town lol. They came from Brampton Assembly to get their stripes put on here and it seems many didn't leave. The place that did them is right next to the Mini Van plant and I think a lot of employees saw them in the flesh and had to have one.
@@larryc506 Windsor. Ground Effects did all the decaling on the special edition SRT's and Ram's etc. Ram plant is just across the river in Detroit (Warren) MI. Minivan plant is a block from Ground Effects and Brampton Assy in near Toronto about 3.5 hrs away. Charger/ Challeger/300
in your under the hood inspection you should also take the oil fill cap off and make sure there is no milky sludge on the inside of the fill cap which could mean head gasket issues.
Check for even tire wear. If the tire isn't evenly worn, could mean the bushings/ tie rods, or even the whole strut is bad. Suspension work is VERY expensive. It costs less for an entire engine swap on some cars than for suspension work!
I found this out the hard way but the frame was bent and the car was going down the Rd practically side ways. Would absolutely destroy the back tires In just a couple months
I bought a car with new tires in October 2020 , 600 miles later the rf tire was totally worn out , I checked the rest of the tires and they were manufactured in July 2010. WHERE did they find 10 year old tires ? I had to have the front end rebuilt and purchase 4 new tires. About 300 miles later the transmission went out ( total 900 miles ). I had to have the transmission rebuilt. I called the person and told him what I thought about him.
what kind of car is suspension work expensive? a quick google of a 2013 toyota camry strut is $50 for factory kyb, tie rod $40 for upgraded moog brand. if you cant afford $200 struts how do you afford gas?
You probably should have added to check under the oil cap, and the coolant reservoir cap and make sure it’s not all glittery, has weird substance on it like you mentioned in your previous videos to see if they’re hiding a head gasket issue.
Great point. Great Great point. I bought a car somebody put a head gasket sealer in. The car was NOT designed for the sealer, didn't even need a head gasket seal, it ultimately destroyed the cooling system. I had to fill and drive the car with water until about 100 liters of water had gone into the car and leaked out of the car. It then started to run. Perfectly like a normal car. I just flushed thr cooling system yesterday and immediately lost all heat. So the heater core is probably clogged
To speak on the antifreeze smell after the engine has been running, I had a leak and replaced all the tubing and water pump. My vehicle smelled like hot coolant for months after the repair when I was done driving just from the residual coolant that had leaked prior to the fix. So, the smell of a coolant should raise red flags but not necessarily be a deal breaker.
I've bought and sold a lot of cars over the years and I've never been scammed... I do my homework and when i drive a car I can tell what items need attention. The only car I really took a loss on was a 64 Mercedes, it ran great and looked great but no one wanted it. BTW, sometimes I look for salvaged titles. If the car was in a minor accident you can pick it up for way less money. I bought an Sion XB with that title because it had been stolen and still driving it after 5 years with zero issues.
Another thing to check is the digital display on the dashboard of the oil life, miles vs hours, etc. In 2007 I bought a 2003 Suburban, fully loaded, 4x4, etc. but after I got it home and started looking at the stats on the digital display it showed 39k miles but over 3600 hours. I still believe to this day that the dealership rolled back the mileage. Beware. Thanks Car Wizard for helping people.
Best thing to do,after you seen it all and like it, is to take it to a shop, pay 1/2 labor or so, if they charge you,and have the mechanic check it out for you, and put it on the lift;if the owner of the car declines and does not reschedule, probably better to leave it.
*It’s sad that so many people don’t understand the basics of buying a car…* Although, it makes me happy when people ask me what I think about the car they’re about to buy. It also makes me feel too good, when I tell people they shouldn’t have bought that. Then later, the car is so messed up, it’s not worth keeping.
It’s the continual “dumbing down” of society. We are supposed to buy the car from the dealer, our food from a grocer, hear our news from a presenter, etc. We are supposed to embrace “easy & convenient”, not to think smarter. That level of ignorance is going to bite us all one day.
3 additional issues: 1 tire condition 2 metal "flakes" on dipstick 3 thorough rust inspection (rockers, pans and "extreme" use of undercoating) great vids keep up the good work! T
Remove the oil fill cap and shine a bright light in. If the inside looks golden and clean the car probably been cared for,if you see black sludge don't buy it.
The person in charge of the estate who has the authority to sell things is actually called the administrator or executor (varies by state). An estate can't have a power of attorney, only a living person can have a power of attorney.
Hey Car Wizard, excellent in-depth review and great advice. I would like to add a few tips that weren't covered (my apologies, if they were, while I went to the fridge). 1. Check the tires for unusual tread wear. 2. Besides checking the power windows, locks, mirrors, etc., also check if all the lights work. 3. If you have a buddy along for the inspection, have him/her follow you in a separate car and look for defects. Vehicles with 'frame damage' don't track correctly. (An exaggerated case would be the vehicle driving 'crooked' or semi-sideways.) Any liquids dripping from the tail pipe? 4. Do the 'bounce test' on the front and rear ends, while it's stationary to test the shocks/struts. 5.. Does the front end 'dip or do a nose-dive' when braking? Or, 'lift' while accelerating? As always, your videos are informative and unbiased. Thank you.
I worked for chrysler...i was the release engineer for the engine and trans dipsticks on this thing. I had to get rid of the trans dipstick as a cost savings measure...it was on my goals for the year.I did as I was told
Great video Mr. Wizard...I live in Michigan where we use salt to keep our roads ice free during the winter. Looking at the underside of a vehicle here is extremely important. I've seen vehicles that look great but have frames that are rotted out. Pickups and SUV's are particularly susceptible to having compromised frames.
In California, the seller must also provide a certificate of a recent successful smog test which will be necessary for the title transfer. And, for safety, the buyer should also check NHTSA for outstanding recalls. There are still cars on the road with Takata airbags.
@@mitsuturbo that’s the common and surprisingly legal term for an emission test. All over the State you find “smog test centers “ where motorists go to emission test their 1975 and newer vehicles. If you pass you get a “smog test certificate “ that enables you to renew your registration. Most cars older than 5 years, need to to be tested every two years.
I'm not a car person but I'm trying to learn as much as I can on TH-cam so I don't get scammed by sellers and mechanics. I'm really grateful for videos like this.
Here's a few more tips if you're going to buy used buy Honda's Toyotas Mazda if it's the right one even a Kia. Stay away from all the German brands because if you don't have the money to upkeep the way that they're supposed to they're not going to work like they're supposed to and they're going to cost you more in the end . Also steer clear of any charger or Challenger as people tend to drive the s*** out of those. That's the reason why you are considering purchasing one right? Don't do it
Wizard, great video as always! One thing - if an estate car, ask to see the WILL and make sure the seller’s ID matches the “Executor” named in the will. “Power of attorney” ceases at death and they are not always the same person. It is its own separate legal document though, so if someone shows you the POA document, it means nothing.
I once found a pristine Buick Lesabre owned by a widow but the title was in the name of her dead husband. I could have had her forge his name but was afraid it would come back to haunt me. To do the sale legally would have cost her more than the car was worth in legal costs. I backed away.
A little trick i was taught was you can swipe the tailpipe with your finger and if it comes out all black it means the car burns oil bad. And open oil cap to see if its sludgy or chocolate milk .
All very good information! Wizard is absolutely correct about the title situation. Clear title is critical. Wizard - you have provided an invaluable service to the car buying public, which is all of us. A heartfelt thank you!
Don't think you are safe buying from a dealership. I bought a used Nissan Altima from a dealership. On the way home from the dealership the oil light came on. Took it to a Nissan service department and found out the engine had a cracked block. Engine was junk. I called the dealership that I bought it from and they said it was as is. No warranty. After I threatened to put it all over social media they agreed to go half in with me for a used engine. Needless to say I spent an extra $3000 out off pocket. Always have a pre buy inspection done before buying any car especially from a dealership offering no warranty.
When you arrive to see the car, make sure it is cold. Not only to be able to look under the hood safely, but you want to hear the engine start when it is cold. If it is warm that may hide trouble
I had cases where I specifically asked the seller not to start it before I got there, so I could hear it start, but I got there and it was already warmed up! They got angry that I wouldn’t look at it anymore. :P
@@retributionaura Yeah I just saw a guy who first wanted to bring the car out to me to look at like he was saving me a trip to his place! Then when I go over there at a scheduled time, he says "oh I just came from the shopping center quick." Engine was totally hot.
These days, this is great advice for dealerships too! The pre-owned sections of lots have really lowered their standards due the current market, so being this detailed protects you!
Sometimes the stabiltrac light and other problems that come up quickly on the Cruze are due to a bad ground wire on the battery the crimp cracks and causes problems usually a simple fix
Couple more things to add: I also check tire wear and depth and date on the sidewall to see how old they are. I also want all four to match up. Tires are not cheap so I will use that to bargain the price. Also in my state, a smog check is required whenever a car changes owners. I want a passing smog check in hand. I also always run a CarFax if for nothing else to verify the mileage. I have a family member who was scammed in the mileage department a few years ago. I also had a buddy who sold a car on CL with a certain number of high miles on it and literally a few hours after the sale, the new buyer was advertising it on CL with ALOT less miles (he had them lowered) while using the same exact photos from my buddy!!!
@@wyrazowfkp Sometimes not even a computer is needed. Certain cars only store the miles in the cluster and not in the computer/BCM of the car itself, so simply swapping the cluster in 5mins can add thousands in value for a scammer.
Recently purchased my dream car - an 06 Magnum RT AWD w/124k. I’ve bought a lot of cars in my lifetime, most of them without a mechanic checking it. I’ve had great luck until my Magnum (law of stubborn averages). This video is so helpful even after a purchase.
I concur with your statements car wizard I until recently have worked at a used dealership for the past 8 months and I'm still stunned to this day how many people can walk in test drive a terrible car that obviously had flaws and then had no clue in just assumed that they all behave that way and then walk out with that car in tow unfortunately having been tricked into accepting a financial burden. Of course our response was and always will be "well it's too late now you've already bought the car." I have absolutely no sympathy and/or mercy towards dealerships they're one of the few occupation, that's whole entire premise seems to be based solely around deception.
Love it when the seller goes when you start looking, hey your buying a used car its not brand new things aren't going to be perfect. Have boughten more than one car because i liked the car and ignored the red flags, like my current mistake that i've put more money into than i paid for the car.
Well said Wizard. Also with selling a car, do it at the DMV to make sure the buyer is going to do the transfer properly. You are on the hook for your car until ownership has been transferred.
Auto club also good if either buyer or seller is a member. Lines are MUCH shorter. I sold a car to my neighbor that way, and when they told him to pay the sales tax, we walked to his bank, luckily nearby.
One thing about buying a salvage car, you should plan on keeping it until the wheels fall off. As a first car for my son was a salvage Hyundai with about 7000 miles for $6000. Checked the usual things out, everything worked. It had repaired front end damage, replaced right fender, bumper, right side lights, and hood. Repainted. No frame damage. Test drive was good. 8 years of driving my son put on over 175k miles very few problem, usual maintenance. Dealer/seller showed me all the paper work, he paid $3,200 for it. We sold the car cheap for $400 as the catalytic converter went bad and it would cost about $700.
Useful video. Heavy wear on the gas pedal rubber won't tally with low mileage. If the car has steel bodywork taking a small magnet along and placing it on areas commonly scuffed/scraped can reveal previous accident repairs as the magnet may not stick to those areas due to the presence of body filler. Feel the hood when you turn up. If it's warm the seller could have run it a while to hide cold start issues (it's also a warning not to open the coolant reservoir immediately). If a car has a tow hitch/ball mount fitted but not the hitch/ball itself, rust or wear around the bolt holes on the mount can can betray a hard life of heavy towing. That might not be an issue but be suspicious if the seller says it's never towed anything. And don't buy a car on a rainy day. Wet bodywork can hide all sorts of paintwork issues.
Dear Wizzard: Every time I ask for the title and if it's a salvage or rebuilt title and that they should email me a copy of the front and back of the title and a copy of Carfax, they all of a sudden block me on Facebook or they stop responding to me or they tell me the car is sold when it's not sold. Some scam dealers also have paid for overinflated values to be printed on top of the Carfax to ripoff the public
I loved your video, please stay healthy cause I need your informative videos. It's refreshing to know that there are good honest mechanics like you. I'm lucky to have a very good, honest shop that I can trust for repairs
I have a multiple page checklist I use. I crawl all over and under for about an hour before even starting it. Look in the trunk, pull back the carpet and look for bodywork. Are any of the panels different colors? Also check all the windows, are the labels the same. Look underneath for crumpled or kinked parts.
There are many decent salvage title cars out there. I bought one, 10 years ago. Yes, the repair paint wasn't perfect but I showed the "before" photos to an auto body expert and told me that a damaged car is more likely to be repaired if the damage is in the rear (front engine vehicle). I then talked to others who have owned multiple salvage title cars. Do your due diligence, have the car inspected, thoroughly, and you can save 50% over a clean title car. My car has been fantastic over these years.
I know people with cars that have had the entire front end replaced with clean titles that nobody will ever know about. So clean titles dont mean shit.
About the car scanner, some cars like my VW shows how many kilometers it drove since the last time the codes were cleared and how many times the car started since. I also would suggest a cheap battery tester, when I got my car last years, one week later the battery died and wasn’t covered on the reseller warranty.
Another consideration is where do we meet. If I were to be interested in purchasing a car off of Facebook or craigslist, I would suggest meeting at the local police department. I have no idea about the person selling the car. Nor do the know anything about be. This would be safer for both parties. But if I mention the police dept. They say No way. Then I would not even consider buying from that individual.
One thing that can also help is to write up a checklist to bring with you when you look at the car. Print it out and get a clipboard to put it in. The last time I was looking for a car, I created a checklist from watching videos like yours, and put the print out on the clip board so I don't miss something I should look at. A couple of times I showed up with the clip board, almost immediately the seller has said something like "Sorry, it's just been sold or "Sorry, It's no longer forsale", and that tells me that there is possibly something wrong with the vehicle.
It means that they don't want to put up with that kind of scrutiny. I wouldn't either. You just can't always call the shots because you are a nervous buyer.
@@clifft7832 It's my money. I don't want to give it away to someone who might be trying to scam me. By the way, I have this great bridge from Brookyn for sale at a sweet price...
Surely when you are checking under the bonnet, you should also be checking the VIN plate and the punched number on the chassis, plus check the chassis legs for damage, straightness, different paint colour etc.
I believe at this point if the car is overpriced then its understandable to be so picky. If the car is offered at a good price as long as the mechanical parts of the car are good dont be acting like its a new car or the seller will kick you out of their house. Happened to me☺️
I checked out a subaru XT 2010 and i did those things, then i test drove it and it had a noise at boost. It had 160k miles and they wouldn't go down on the price after seeing that very little was done in the car fax. I'm glad i did.
#1 on the code reader...I bought one and had an issue with our Nissan Maxima post oil change at the dealer....turned out to be a MAF code...turns out they checked the airfilter but didn't put the air box correctly....back to the dealer with the code...and they admitted they caused the issue and corrected it.
#1 Rule when looking at a car,Never go look at a car at night,everything looks good at night,you want to go during the Day always. #2 Rule when looking at a car,Make sure the engine is cold to the touch,it’s the best way to check the oil,coolant and other fluids,specially when looking under the oil cap to check if it has a blown head gasket if you see that peanut butter color gunk under the oil cap.
On the brake fluid. The level will drop as the pads/ shoes wear. If the level is low, check the state of the brake pads. It is not a good idea to top up brake fluid as it will spill when changing old pads/ shoes for new units.
@@kalashnikov1343 The fluid level will drop in the master cylinder because as the pads/shoes wear the wheel cylinders will be further extended and hold more brake fluid. When you put on new pads/shoes it compresses the wheel cylinders back in and pushes the brake fluid back into the master cylinder.
Leaving the wheel cylinder bleeders closed and forcing the brake fluid back into the master cylinder is a really bad idea on cars with ABS brakes. The ABS valves and pump are extremely delicate and any particles from the downstream brake lines and wheel cylinders forced back through the ABS system can cause the ABS to fail.
1. only buy one owner cars. 2 . you are right about the title and walk around. 3. check all bolts for tool marks , if bolts have tool marks, its been worked on. 3. if the trans is full of new looking fluid, be care full. 4, your wright about the rest.
To be sure it's a one owner car, look at the title for "previous title number" it should say "MSO" (manufacturers statement of origin) anything else means it is NOT a one owner vehicle.
Thanks for another great video. My two daily drivers are salvage titles, but I knew that going into it. I've put tens of thousands of care-free miles on my '06 Element and '03 Vitara 2 door. Passing on any salvage titled vehicle is just the advice us bottom feeders like to hear.
@@rickreese5794 I got this '06 Element for a steal with under 100k miles. Needed a few odds and ends but I got it sorted and it's been a winner. Coast to coast camper.
Brought a salvage ford. Only damage was the grandma put in reverse and floored it (instead of the brake). Tail light, bumper cover, 2 rear shocks, and a slightly off-center tail gate on the hatch back.
There's one sitting in my driveway. I always like to ask the seller of pictures of damage prior to repairs. Nothing wrong with salvage titles, these days shopping around Copart there's a lot with minor damage that are salvage due to no available parts.
Tried to buy this truck from some dude, said it’s was his moms, had the title and everything, ran a car fax and it popped up being reported stolen, even if they got the title you can’t never be safe
If I recall, there's a plastic piece in the shifter panel. And to shift it out of park is to take a screwdriver and take the trim bezel off, and inside there's a cable and if you move that along with the shifter it'll go out of park. My dad has a 300 and I bet it's the plastic piece inside the shifter panel. They make metal aftermarket ones bc it was so common on them.
A couple more simple checks. Are all 4 tyres matching (same manufacturer, size and type) and all with similar tread left. Open the boot (trunk) and check that there is a spare wheel with a jack (unless it is one of the newer vehicles with run flats and no spare of course). You can also look inside the boot for any signs of accident damage or repairs by lfting the carpet.
If they have access to a lift, I usually request it to be put up on the rack so I can inspect the underneath. There you will usually see how well the car was taken care of by the amount of corrosion, the condition of the suspension, exhaust, see any leaks, or loose parts. Ive seen cars that "look" great and once I peak underneath, they look like they went 200K on a saltwater highway without ever being washed.
Solid Video with good advice. However I have always recommended to my friends & family that they take the car being sold to a mechanic that SPECIALIZES in that make of car. This way they are familiar with all the things that can/will go wrong with that particular car and be able to warn you accordingly.
Car Wizard, one thing you left out. If your buying from a private seller always do the transaction at your local DMV. This actually protects both buyer and seller. I consider this step mandatory. If the seller won't agree, pass on the car.
Should check tire tread too just to see if you have to replace the tires soon. Think of the reasons why a lot of people dump cars. They usually don't want to pay to fix SOMETHING, so almost ALWAYS there is pending maintenance to be done.
I got a great deal on my current car, did the research, it was a Salvage title, from a major accident, but was put back together pretty darn well, the paint doesn't match completely in a number of places, but what I neglected to check was the AC and the CD-player - both of which were dead or damaged. But, for a 2000 Honda Civic with 120K miles, for $1,900 six years ago, that I have only put about another $1k in in upkeep, I am happy - but this gave me a couple more things to look at if I get another car, thank you, Wizard
I just went to look at a used car. Met the guy at the shopping center and he just tried to rush me. As soon as I grabbed my OBD scanner he slammed the hood shut, jumped in the drivers seat and took off.
The sunroof is probably something that should DEFINITELY be checked out by you even if you never plan on using it. Sometimes they have defects in the design that don't come up during warranty period (because it wasn't used) and it's one of those things that probably isn't a "cheap DIY fix". Even if you don't need it, you will have to fix it before you ever sell it.
i.e. nearly every year ford focus since 09. Every headliner is stained from the sunroof drains clogging due to being only about 1.5mm wide. It takes just a few grains of sand to clog them in a day or two then rain fills the entire roof of the car then spills inside the entire interior of the roof then rest of the vehicle. Literally flooding the entire vehicle. EVERY single focus I've been in had brown head liners and mold in every crevice of the body If your focus has this issue. You must clean out the 2 drain ports weekly.
First thing you need to check for is if it has a dodge logo in my opinion 😂. My girlfriend has a 2016 charger. Only 120,000 miles, shes had to replace the subframe, water pump, thermostat, all four breaks, new radiator, had to get all new sway bar, all 4 new motor mounts, check engine light is CONSTANTLY on, and wont go off, tpms system no matter how much you fix it, that light will also never turn off
just a few other things that might help it's best to look at a car when it hasn't been running and the engine is cold. sometimes a vehicle will have a problem with starting cold.do all inspections before starting the engine. then after you shut the engine off, wait a few minutes for the fluids to settle and check them again. also restart the vehicle after it's up to temperature. sometimes there's a problem with starting after they're warmed up too. also, besides a mirror and flashlight, a good thing to take with you is a magnet. if the paint looks off in an area, see if the magnet sticks. if it doesn't, that means there's plastic body filler there. also look and feel around the door, trunk, and hood jambs. if they aren't smooth, it's most likely a tape line from painting. if you notice that a repair has been made, check everything in that area. example, Wizard showed the damage on his car. if I was looking at that car I would look inside the trunk thoroughly to look for damage and paint differences. look under the vehicle for the same. also if you see undercoating that doesn't look factory, it's probably hiding damage. if you live in an area where they salt the roads in the winter. check the frame and around the wheel openings for rust or repairs. be cautious if you see undercoating. I've seen cars where the frame was duct taped and undercoated to hide rust holes. if you see a little rust it's normal. but if it's scaly tap on it with a screwdriver to see if it's solid. if you push through with the screwdriver, walk away. hope this helps
I made some of those mistakes when I bought my first car. Luckily the worst thing that I missed was a stuck shut sunroof, but I wish I had been more attentive when I was looking it over
My 2009 Dodge Charger has been a great car for the last 8 yrs. Small issues like fuses or nails in tires, but as far as the engine, it's been awesome. (knock on wood). Also, you can't check the transmission fluid because you need a special dipstick for it. @13:11
@@EvanDickersonM81 2005 Chrysler 300C in my garage right now with 187,000 miles and my Hemi runs strong like the day I bought it 4 years ago with almost half the miles. Take care of them properly and they last as long as anything else. Biggest issue I've had is my coolant started boiling in the overflow tank last year, almost overheated but I shut it down quick before the temp needle got to the H - almost thought it was a head gasket but turned out to be a clogged radiator (I neglected my antifreeze flush intervals).
@My Pronoun is WTF it's called hemi tick, it's a known issue. I've yet to hear of Toyota tick or Honda knock. buddy has a 09 challenger that got it and ended up needing a whole bank of valves and rockers.
No one likes getting ripped off , nit pick everything like a dealer would do , hate everything, it smells, it's noisy, it shakes , it leaks , I hate the color , it's my kids first car , let's talk
One important thing that could be added is checking the oil fill cap area for sticky oil or moisture which would also indicate head gasket failure or water entering oil.
My personal take : the first thing I check is the oil stick - if the oil is dirty and low there's a good chance the motor burns oil - then just verify if the exhaust pipe is full of black soot which confirms the engine is burning oil - walk away unless you intend to replace the engine . Any oil leaks in the engine compartment could indicate the engine is "pumping oil" - walk away. Next check the radiator for corrosion and leaks and while the engine is cold check the rad fluid level which if low could indicate the engine is using Prestone. Walk away because a blown head gasket could be the cause. Bring a friend who knows cars well or better yet spend the money to have the car checked by a mechanic. If the seller refuses - walk away.
Friend of mine purchased a car from a “as is” used car lot. Come nighttime, he found out that the headlights didn’t work. I teased him for years about that one….
Wizard, you are amazing. That bit about the title just saved me so much trouble. I was about to go look at a toyota camry and when I asked if the sellers name was on the title, I got an elaborate story about why it wasn't in their name. Wow. Thank you!
I definitely make a title/vehicle ownership history report blundering mistake last time I bought an old van, luckily for me, the issue wasn't too bad in the end, but boy it could have been much worse and I really didn't need the extra stress, I now definitely agree, title is the first thing to check for sure.
I'd also like to point out that if you get any bad gut feelings, as either a seller or buyer, stop the transaction immediately. There are quite a few people who's sole source of income is lawsuits.
17 out of 20 of the used cars for sale right now need immediate attention. And 20 out of 20 are overpriced.
This dude talks like the market 2 years ago. My man theres a car shortage, even used cars are way overpriced.
Loooooooool. So true.
I’ve been wearing my thumbs to nubs scrolling through cars looking for something close to priced right.
Most dont
Knit pick
Key point. ASK if you can remove the engine cover, and if they say no, ask why not.
Don't just rip it off and expect the seller to stand there and not say anything.
Don’t forget the classic trick of covering up the check engine light. Turn the key to on but don’t start it. Check engine light will be on. If not, huge red flag.
And also airbag and ABS light. People have bought crashed cars where they didn't replace the airbag and just disconnected the light. Some of those people died in car crashes later...
@@redbaron6805 ABS light was a red flag!
Yep one of the cars I bought years ago turned out to have no bulb for the check engine light. Super shady.
@@JoeUrbanYYC The good news is, scan tools are getting super cheap. Which means, they can disconnect the Check Engine light all day long, all the codes will still show up if you check the car with a scan tool.
@@redbaron6805 oh yes, that was 12 years ago, I am much better prepared when I go shopping again this fall.
The best advice I ever got about buying used cars was to be very careful about buying a car that was just running or is when you arrive.
There's a good chance they are hiding something
Good one.
So true. If the car is running already, then turn it off. Sit a few minutes and pretend to talk about the interior, then turn it on
@@diallo1347 this is bad advice a " few minutes " is not enough time for the engine to cool off completely and witnessing a cold start is paramount feel the engine climb underneath feel the exhaust check the cats etc ..or walk away ..
as someone who worked in the automotive industry for 10 years as a parts guy. I can tell you that they use the cheapest parts available they do the least possible and they call it a safety lol. They then turn around and up the price four five thousand dollars more than what they pay for the car. Always take the car to another mechanic do not trust dealerships
Very helpful! Just one more to add: the parking lot test. Park directly next to a painted line in the parking lot and then look at the reflection in the side of the car. If the (straight) line is all distorted and wavy, the car had impact damage. Doesn’t matter if they used filler and the paint is smooth as such, you will still see it.
Are you implying it's not possible to repair damage to factory specifications?
@@CadillacDriverIf it's been repaired to factory specifications then there's no issue essentially
@@nicholaswildethethird you missed my point. The OP essentially said that no matter how well a repair is done, it's impossible to get it back to factory specs and you will be able to tell it's been repaired. This is not true.
@@CadillacDriverUnless you’re planning on spending stupid money or have the skill and time to get it back original as possible. OP’s advice is good for the average joe to look out for. That’s the point you’re missing.
@@Iridiumcosmos what the hell? I'm not missing any "point" - YOU are.
Another absolute plank who reads one thing, but sees something completely different.
READ my posts again. Read them slowly and carefully until you understand what I'm saying.
I always take a car to the dealership for a “pre-purchase” inspection. Dealer mechanics tend to know the specific weaknesses of a particular model that won’t show up in diagnostic codes. These inspections are very thorough. And they include a list of any needed repairs and a parts list and the cost of the repairs. A good investment of $250. If you’re too far from a dealership, consult a trusted mechanic. If the seller won’t allow this inspection, walk away.
That’s a lie. My dealership wouldn’t even inpsect the vehicles during trade in. The dealership is “Infiniti of coconut creek. “
No u don't lmao
@@shinski8114😂no dealer will let you take their car of the lot for an inspection
@@AfricaGeo really so why is dip,pop leing bro
@@AfricaGeodrove my car to an independent mechanic shop during the test drive. The dealer went with me - he had agreed to it before I showed up to check out the car. I wasn't going to give him my business if he didn't agree to the inspection!
One thing I look for when looking on used cars is whether both headlights are equally as faded. If one headlight is crystal clear and the other one is a bit foggy that’s a good indication that the car was in an accident.
Not necessarily. I’ve replaced one head light because the seal went on it and started to collect water…
Not to mention headlights can be sanded and reclearcoated to look new.. or a 3 m restoration kit $30 parts store or temporarily clean by running a buffer over it
@@markbell5701my friend did that to my Terra at his body shop. Wet sand them, wipe off, spray clearcoat
Or you can use the Hoovie "Car Issues" approach: show up, rev the engine twice, shake hands, hand over an envelope of ca$h, and leave. Takes substantially less time.
And then cash off with your videos 😉
Me when I find a sub-$1000 shitbox 🗿
I fully support this method
ALWAYS offer more than the asking price to be sure you're the "winner".
Sounds about right lol
19:30 The one thing you missed is before you start the engine just turn on the key and make sure all the bulbs light up particularly the check engine bulb. A lot of times people will remove them but of course your code scanner should pick that up. But you should check all the bulbs in the dash
What if they’re burned out? Lol. Mine burned out but my car is 47 years old. Fuse popped
@@DannyTOG well exactly! That’s why you should check for that sort of thing it could just be burned out but you want to make sure that it is working or at least to be aware if it’s not.
He has another video on that, but a gauge check is critical.
Can digital odometer be rolled back to show lower miles?.Is that a common scam??
@@wakeywakey8603yes.
The truck I bought had an oil change sticker on.
By mileage on that sticker...the oil change was "in the future ".
Somehow the truck lost 5000 miles.
If you show up and the car is running or engine is hot, 99% of the time something is wrong.
This is often true.
I bought a 170k mile 2006 prius last year and the owner already had it running. It ran decent, but not perfect. The next day when I picked up and paid for the car, the seller had it running again.
The next morning, I was greeted with a surprise on cold start. It took 2 start attempts before it reluctantly started and ran very rough for a couple minutes, before it mostly smoothed out. During that first 2 minutes, it sounded like a jackhammer and had obvious misfires.
The engine oil was fresh, but I suspected the oil changes had been neglected for a long time. The dipstick had heavy varnish on it. After a motor flush that got A LOT of gunk out of the engine and some fresh spark plugs, it ran way better. After 8 more short-interval oil changes with marvel mystery oil, it is healthy again. On the first few MMO-laced oil changes, the oil turned black in a matter of days. Now, at 184k miles, it runs as it should, even on cold start.
I thought for sure I'd be swapping an engine in this car. I'll bet the previous owner thought the same. I got lucky with just a tune-up and clean-up fixing it. The joke's on him, as it's now worth 2x what I paid for it.
@@Brandon_Nelson92 Mmo in every used car I buy! I add it to the gas at every fill up , and in the 1st few oil changes, & along with new plugs, those engines run great!
Assuming you meet the seller at their home. If you're doing the transaction in a shopping center parking lot, that's obviously not going to work out.
@@russellhltn1396 when I bought my prius, I met the dude in a shopping center, both when I first drove it and when I met him again the next day to pay for it and pick it up.
When selling a cheap car, I schedule the meet-up in a public place with video surveillance for safety/security reasons. I understand why the seller of my prius did the same, except it also allowed him to hide the engine problems.
@@russellhltn1396 good point
One other thing is make sure the engine is cold when you get there. If its already warmed up walk away. Some cars seem fine when warmed up, but cold they are completely different. I had an Audi that ran fine once it was warmed up, but when it was cold was really hard to start.
Badly worn.
what if you meet in a public place and the owner had to drive the car to get it there
My 1973 Datsun pic up if raining forget starting i changed my plugs to a different depth didn't hit piston fired up.
You’re not the only buyer to check the car
Yup, just what I was thinking when watching the video.
No title, no deal. That's good advice. Years ago, I bought a bike from a guy who didn't have the paperwork handy, but a mutual friend vouched for him. The promised paperwork kept taking longer and longer to arrive... Eventually it worked out, I got the ownership a couple of months later. But for that time, I couldn't register it or do anything with it, and didn't know if I ever could. So in case it's not clear, no title, NO DEAL!
Looked at a truck a while back, almost bought it, they could not find the title, I drove away
@@TheSleepingonit That was the smart move.
I've been looking at bikes for quite some time on Facebook Marketplace and some of them be saying they don't have the title. I be wondering why folks be having these bikes and no title, I just instantly think they're stolen. They also always claim that you can just go to the DMV and get it, then the question comes to mind for me "Why didn't the seller just go and get the title themselves before trying to sell the bike?" Wouldn't that make more sense?
@@bman409 It may or may not be stolen, but the title is a crucial bit of paperwork. If someone can't keep track of that, I'd wonder what else is wrong. In any case, there would be legal and procedural hoops to jump through, which are a headache.
@@eyerollthereforeiam1709 Right, but what I'm trying to get at is that I shouldn't have to be going through all that when the seller could've just did it themselves. It saves the headache for both parties.
Anyone with common sense is gonna ask about the title. No, title.. I'ma just assume you're hiding something.
Another thing that they do on Marketplace that I've noticed is that they never take pictures of the interior. So when I message them and ask about the interior, they always tell me the same thing "Oh I don't have any at the moment, but I will when I get off work or have time" like really? You had time to put up the ad with 6+ pictures of the body and even wrote a paragraph about the car but can't provide interior pictures?! So after I ask about the pictures, they come back to me about it. I don't even respond again cause that shows me that they're not trying to sell that car for real.
Section 1.2 - Current registration. You could find a car with a clean title and they haven't registered it for 5 years. You will be on the hook for past registration, fees, penalties, etc.
Also, when I go to look at a car I talk myself into not wanting it before I look at it. After inspection, if enough boxes get checked I may change my mind. Much better than going into this with " i want this car I want this car I want this car" and after you get home saying "I wish I never bought this car."
*You can be scammed with the coolant reservoir/expansion tank. I've seen where they will clean it out real nice, then they will take off the hose and plug it off with something, put the hose back on with the restriction in it, then fill it with clean fluid. Looks can be deceiving and they do this to hide a serious problem. Pop that hose off and check it if you're suspicious about it.*
I went to MD to NJ myself, as a woman, to purchase an Eclipse. I purchased a cheap code reader before I left. Put the code reader in the eclipse. I forgot what code came on but I called my mechanic and cousin with the code. They both said it was the catalytic converter. He wasn’t willing to bargain is what he told me when i initially asked. I walked away from the headache from the one small investment. Obviously the code had been turned off but the issue not fixed.
It’s actually good to rev it if you have another person/camera looking at the engine. If it moves out of place at all, it likely has a broken motor mount. Unexpected engine movement can lead to dozens of problems. Water/vacuum hose stress, wire stress, etc.
I just discovered that the car I bought 2 years ago had a motor mount bolt that was missing. I bought a new bolt and installed it right away.
Wizard! I’m not into cars,but Jeeps But somehow you keep me interested. I really just like your car wizard show. I have boats also. Just wanted to tell you , and your family, The wizard family is amazing! Be honest just lost of words.
It's much easier to test for bad motor mounts by putting the car in drive and reverse repeatedly. No need to touch the gas pedal.
@@johnbrown1381, how does this work? Works only with a hydraulic auto transmission, right?
@@johnbrown1381what if it's a manual
I walked away from a vehicle the minute I opened up the oil cap. I looked into the valve cover and all I saw was white milk. More important than most of the other stuff. I am surprised the car wizard did not mention this Major Red Flag.....
Bad head gasket
@@jogmas12 , and/or cracked head or block.
…would the dip stick show foam???
Coolant in the oil could also be a bad intake gasket. But even if the gasket and fluids are replaced, there's a pretty good chance that all the bearings in the bottom end are gone. Just walk away.
Also, look for varnish on the oil dip-stick. If there's varnish there, the car has missed too many oil changes. Walk away.
So this one is actually not as much of a red flag as you might think IF it’s in the middle of winter. My 2007 Chevy impala oil cap looks like milk in the middle of winter but during the summer its dry.
Barely 3 minutes in and I can concede that I do not know how to buy a car 😂 I will definitely be watching this a few times to get the information stuck in my mind for when I do, I will be finding a mechanic to pay for him to look it over and make a recommendation, thank you sir
Same here, it might be better to pay a few bucks to take a mechanic with you to help.dont tell the sell he's a mechanic 😂,
@@frznrrfan.frznrrfan102 agreed, that would make things slightly uncomfortable 😬🤣
Absolutely! Best plan ever… keeps one from looking like a jerk.
@@frznrrfan.frznrrfan102The Mechanics here in Nigeria are often buddies with the guys at the dealership, so for the most part you're in for a long haul 😂😂😂😂 There's no getting out of that one.
Same here. I've gotten really lucky with several vehicle purchases off FB market. Man, ive been buying like an idiot, and ive just had good luck 😬
I bought a car, thought I was real smart to check under the oil fill cap for water. I was so focused on that, I didn’t realize the paint underneath the hood was a different color. Fortunately even ‘tho it had been in an accident, it was ok and someone actually did decent body work!
I would always check the tires. Worn tires are one thing, but uneven wear indicates that something is up with the suspension. And if the tire brands don't match, or it is running a budget brand that you've never even heard of, you know that the owner has tried to run it on a shoestring budget.
One thing I would add is do a proper research of the model, find what usually goes wrong with it and make sure most of those problems have sorted alredy, otherwise thing can get really expensive. For example: old Mercedes CL or S class - ABC suspension. Jaguar XJ8/XK8 chain tensioners. Northstar engine - headgasket and so on.
yes
Tip for cars with part-time 4WD. Put it in 4L and 4H to make sure the front end doesn’t have drivetrain issues and that the transfer case is engaging/working
Videos like this are GOLD. Car buying from a private seller can really be a hassle with some seller's. It's like they expect you to do the old school approach (check the oil and kick the tires and your good to go)
Yes and it just needs a $20 dollar tune up to run perfect you know.
Sadly I can say I’ve made multiple mistakes mentioned in this video 😅 I bought a used Jeep from a guy who I knew from high school. He didn’t have the title at the time, but assured me it was in transit from the DMV… safe to say it wasn’t. I was too trusting because I thought I knew him, but ultimately I paid the price.
I’m curious what happened? If you never received a title, could you ever get a license plate or even resell it?
I'm curious too, please tell us what happened.
@@aussie2uGA depends on the state, but in CA as long as you have a signed Bill of Sale you can obtain a title as long as the previous owners records match the DMV.
@@YumboYack2521 California buyers should double check that with DMV. If that was ever true, I don't think it is anymore. Now you can't even get a duplicate California title without a notarized application.
Sorry to hear that, but we learn from our mistakes and Mr Wizard. Thank God for him
Since bumper covers, especially unpainted ones, can pop right back out, It could also be a good idea to look in the trunk for damage. Lift the trunk floor and check that there's no damage to the rear structure.
Personally I would also be cautious if the engine bay is showroom clean. Makes me wonder if they're trying to hide leaks.
Maybe also unscrew the oil fill cap and check for "chocolate milk".
Your comment that a very clean "power barn" is a sign of hidden problems may not indicate that seller is hiding problems. I personally try to keep the engine bays of my vehicles NEAR "showroom clean", by "hand detailing" (NOT power washing) on a monthly basis. My vehicle is only driven during good weather (I am retired, don't drive much) so keeping the vehicle detailed adds to my driving enjoyment and is relatively easy to do. I am driving LESS but enjoying it MORE!
These Daytonas are fairly rare but there are about 20 in my town lol. They came from Brampton Assembly to get their stripes put on here and it seems many didn't leave. The place that did them is right next to the Mini Van plant and I think a lot of employees saw them in the flesh and had to have one.
There're super yum I wish there was an online place to order from
Same with 5th gen camaros in Oshawa, good place to look for one to buy. Usually the people who built the car will take good care of it.
What city are you in?
@@MI-mx3rh He was replying to the original commenter
@@larryc506 Windsor. Ground Effects did all the decaling on the special edition SRT's and Ram's etc. Ram plant is just across the river in Detroit (Warren) MI. Minivan plant is a block from Ground Effects and Brampton Assy in near Toronto about 3.5 hrs away. Charger/ Challeger/300
in your under the hood inspection you should also take the oil fill cap off and make sure there is no milky sludge on the inside of the fill cap which could mean head gasket issues.
Check for even tire wear. If the tire isn't evenly worn, could mean the bushings/ tie rods, or even the whole strut is bad. Suspension work is VERY expensive. It costs less for an entire engine swap on some cars than for suspension work!
I found this out the hard way but the frame was bent and the car was going down the Rd practically side ways. Would absolutely destroy the back tires In just a couple months
Very good point, I'll check the tires 1st before I get in the car because if the tires are bad, why go farther. RUN AWAY FROM THE CAR
Dont buy a car with warm engine
I bought a car with new tires in October 2020 , 600 miles later the rf tire was totally worn out , I checked the rest of the tires and they were manufactured in July 2010. WHERE did they find 10 year old tires ? I had to have the front end rebuilt and purchase 4 new tires. About 300 miles later the transmission went out ( total 900 miles ). I had to have the transmission rebuilt. I called the person and told him what I thought about him.
what kind of car is suspension work expensive? a quick google of a 2013 toyota camry strut is $50 for factory kyb, tie rod $40 for upgraded moog brand. if you cant afford $200 struts how do you afford gas?
You probably should have added to check under the oil cap, and the coolant reservoir cap and make sure it’s not all glittery, has weird substance on it like you mentioned in your previous videos to see if they’re hiding a head gasket issue.
Or engine sludge buildup.
Great point. Great Great point. I bought a car somebody put a head gasket sealer in. The car was NOT designed for the sealer, didn't even need a head gasket seal, it ultimately destroyed the cooling system. I had to fill and drive the car with water until about 100 liters of water had gone into the car and leaked out of the car. It then started to run. Perfectly like a normal car. I just flushed thr cooling system yesterday and immediately lost all heat. So the heater core is probably clogged
To speak on the antifreeze smell after the engine has been running, I had a leak and replaced all the tubing and water pump. My vehicle smelled like hot coolant for months after the repair when I was done driving just from the residual coolant that had leaked prior to the fix. So, the smell of a coolant should raise red flags but not necessarily be a deal breaker.
I've bought and sold a lot of cars over the years and I've never been scammed... I do my homework and when
i drive a car I can tell what items need attention. The only car I really took a loss on was a 64 Mercedes, it ran great
and looked great but no one wanted it. BTW, sometimes I look for salvaged titles. If the car was in a minor accident
you can pick it up for way less money. I bought an Sion XB with that title because it had been stolen and still
driving it after 5 years with zero issues.
Another thing to check is the digital display on the dashboard of the oil life, miles vs hours, etc.
In 2007 I bought a 2003 Suburban, fully loaded, 4x4, etc. but after I got it home and started looking at the stats on the digital display it showed 39k miles but over 3600 hours.
I still believe to this day that the dealership rolled back the mileage.
Beware. Thanks Car Wizard for helping people.
Nah that's just a load of idling time.
@@russell-gt1dyThat's what I was gonna say.
Best thing to do,after you seen it all and like it, is to take it to a shop, pay 1/2 labor or so, if they charge you,and have the mechanic check it out for you, and put it on the lift;if the owner of the car declines and does not reschedule, probably better to leave it.
*It’s sad that so many people don’t understand the basics of buying a car…*
Although, it makes me happy when people ask me what I think about the car they’re about to buy.
It also makes me feel too good, when I tell people they shouldn’t have bought that. Then later, the car is so messed up, it’s not worth keeping.
My dad taught me this when I was 12
It’s the continual “dumbing down” of society. We are supposed to buy the car from the dealer, our food from a grocer, hear our news from a presenter, etc. We are supposed to embrace “easy & convenient”, not to think smarter. That level of ignorance is going to bite us all one day.
@@aussie2uGA it's for their total control over the people. While people distrust their own neighbors.
3 additional issues:
1 tire condition
2 metal "flakes" on dipstick
3 thorough rust inspection (rockers, pans and "extreme" use of undercoating)
great vids keep up the good work!
T
Remove the oil fill cap and shine a bright light in. If the inside looks golden and clean the car probably been cared for,if you see black sludge don't buy it.
I change the oil on my cars religiously
I lost my car because I didn't change the oil :(
Or “Chocolate Milk”, which indicates contamination with coolant.
The person in charge of the estate who has the authority to sell things is actually called the administrator or executor (varies by state). An estate can't have a power of attorney, only a living person can have a power of attorney.
Wizard, don't forget the gaps between body panels, and the shifted bolt marks!
I'd also stay away from any old car that has an 'underbody coating' or appears to have been painted black. They're usually hiding rust.
Mike Brewer said of all body damage; the shape spare tyre well, if internal, is a valuable element because that area does not repair easily.
Hey Car Wizard, excellent in-depth review and great advice.
I would like to add a few tips that weren't covered (my apologies, if they were, while I went to the fridge).
1. Check the tires for unusual tread wear.
2. Besides checking the power windows, locks, mirrors, etc., also check if all the lights work.
3. If you have a buddy along for the inspection, have him/her follow you in a separate car and look for defects.
Vehicles with 'frame damage' don't track correctly. (An exaggerated case would be the vehicle driving
'crooked' or semi-sideways.) Any liquids dripping from the tail pipe?
4. Do the 'bounce test' on the front and rear ends, while it's stationary to test the shocks/struts.
5.. Does the front end 'dip or do a nose-dive' when braking? Or, 'lift' while accelerating?
As always, your videos are informative and unbiased. Thank you.
Does liquid not always drop from exhaust pipe on a petrol engine.
@@martymartin2894I would assume it does that when it’s running rich, which means the fuel/air mix is too high in fuel.
I worked for chrysler...i was the release engineer for the engine and trans dipsticks on this thing. I had to get rid of the trans dipstick as a cost savings measure...it was on my goals for the year.I did as I was told
You are evil! Maybe asbestos of a thousand brakes pads accumulate on your nightstand
Mercedes transmissions of these years never have a dipstick. That was a Mercedes decision
Great video Mr. Wizard...I live in Michigan where we use salt to keep our roads ice free during the winter. Looking at the underside of a vehicle here is extremely important. I've seen vehicles that look great but have frames that are rotted out. Pickups and SUV's are particularly susceptible to having compromised frames.
In California, the seller must also provide a certificate of a recent successful smog test which will be necessary for the title transfer. And, for safety, the buyer should also check NHTSA for outstanding recalls. There are still cars on the road with Takata airbags.
WTF is a "smog" test?
Is that like a tailpipe emissions test?
@@mitsuturbo that’s the common and surprisingly legal term for an emission test. All over the State you find “smog test centers “ where motorists go to emission test their 1975 and newer vehicles. If you pass you get a “smog test certificate “ that enables you to renew your registration. Most cars older than 5 years, need to to be tested every two years.
Good call and I always do. My Taurus wagon had 8 recalls and thankfully all were completed and cleared. Most would never think of that site. Smart
Bc California is a Democrat shithole..........lol
*I really appreciate this video. What makes me sad, is that everyone watching this is already a “car person.”*
True but car people can send this video to people that are about to look at a car
Just because you're a car person doesn't mean you're a smart car person, everyone can learn something..
@@frznrrfan.frznrrfan102 that’s very true
I'm not a car person but I'm trying to learn as much as I can on TH-cam so I don't get scammed by sellers and mechanics. I'm really grateful for videos like this.
Here's a few more tips if you're going to buy used buy Honda's Toyotas Mazda if it's the right one even a Kia. Stay away from all the German brands because if you don't have the money to upkeep the way that they're supposed to they're not going to work like they're supposed to and they're going to cost you more in the end . Also steer clear of any charger or Challenger as people tend to drive the s*** out of those. That's the reason why you are considering purchasing one right? Don't do it
Wizard, great video as always! One thing - if an estate car, ask to see the WILL and make sure the seller’s ID matches the “Executor” named in the will. “Power of attorney” ceases at death and they are not always the same person. It is its own separate legal document though, so if someone shows you the POA document, it means nothing.
As a seller, I would show you the door. Don't make life complicated.
Correct! Well said.
Banker here. I was looking for this comment.
@@clifft7832 If it's an expensive car people need to make sure
I once found a pristine Buick Lesabre owned by a widow but the title was in the name of her dead husband. I could have had her forge his name but was afraid it would come back to haunt me. To do the sale legally would have cost her more than the car was worth in legal costs. I backed away.
A little trick i was taught was you can swipe the tailpipe with your finger and if it comes out all black it means the car burns oil bad. And open oil cap to see if its sludgy or chocolate milk .
All very good information! Wizard is absolutely correct about the title situation. Clear title is critical. Wizard - you have provided an invaluable service to the car buying public, which is all of us. A heartfelt thank you!
Don't think you are safe buying from a dealership. I bought a used Nissan Altima from a dealership. On the way home from the dealership the oil light came on. Took it to a Nissan service department and found out the engine had a cracked block. Engine was junk. I called the dealership that I bought it from and they said it was as is. No warranty. After I threatened to put it all over social media they agreed to go half in with me for a used engine. Needless to say I spent an extra $3000 out off pocket. Always have a pre buy inspection done before buying any car especially from a dealership offering no warranty.
When you arrive to see the car, make sure it is cold. Not only to be able to look under the hood safely, but you want to hear the engine start when it is cold. If it is warm that may hide trouble
@Crazy Ohioan Cars, Guns, and Gaming it could also cover up timing chain noise.
I had cases where I specifically asked the seller not to start it before I got there, so I could hear it start, but I got there and it was already warmed up! They got angry that I wouldn’t look at it anymore. :P
@@retributionaura Yeah I just saw a guy who first wanted to bring the car out to me to look at like he was saving me a trip to his place! Then when I go over there at a scheduled time, he says "oh I just came from the shopping center quick." Engine was totally hot.
These days, this is great advice for dealerships too! The pre-owned sections of lots have really lowered their standards due the current market, so being this detailed protects you!
100% agree, i test drove a cruze and half through the drive the stabilatrac light came on.
Sometimes the stabiltrac light and other problems that come up quickly on the Cruze are due to a bad ground wire on the battery the crimp cracks and causes problems usually a simple fix
@@richardogle7772 keyword is usually
A dealership car can be taken to a independent mechanic. Pay the $100, get it up on the rack, and go through the thing. It’s worth the hassle.
@@motojaymn4131 that's just what cruzes do
Couple more things to add: I also check tire wear and depth and date on the sidewall to see how old they are. I also want all four to match up. Tires are not cheap so I will use that to bargain the price. Also in my state, a smog check is required whenever a car changes owners. I want a passing smog check in hand. I also always run a CarFax if for nothing else to verify the mileage. I have a family member who was scammed in the mileage department a few years ago. I also had a buddy who sold a car on CL with a certain number of high miles on it and literally a few hours after the sale, the new buyer was advertising it on CL with ALOT less miles (he had them lowered) while using the same exact photos from my buddy!!!
Check everything on a used car PERIOD
How can you lower miles on modern cars?
@@wolfeadventures Easier than on the old ones .... just computer needed
@@wolfeadventures Seen people advertising scan tool services on FB marketplace for that purpose.
@@wyrazowfkp Sometimes not even a computer is needed. Certain cars only store the miles in the cluster and not in the computer/BCM of the car itself, so simply swapping the cluster in 5mins can add thousands in value for a scammer.
Recently purchased my dream car - an 06 Magnum RT AWD w/124k. I’ve bought a lot of cars in my lifetime, most of them without a mechanic checking it. I’ve had great luck until my Magnum (law of stubborn averages). This video is so helpful even after a purchase.
I concur with your statements car wizard I until recently have worked at a used dealership for the past 8 months and I'm still stunned to this day how many people can walk in test drive a terrible car that obviously had flaws and then had no clue in just assumed that they all behave that way and then walk out with that car in tow unfortunately having been tricked into accepting a financial burden. Of course our response was and always will be "well it's too late now you've already bought the car." I have absolutely no sympathy and/or mercy towards dealerships they're one of the few occupation, that's whole entire premise seems to be based solely around deception.
Love it when the seller goes when you start looking, hey your buying a used car its not brand new things aren't going to be perfect. Have boughten more than one car because i liked the car and ignored the red flags, like my current mistake that i've put more money into than i paid for the car.
Well said Wizard. Also with selling a car, do it at the DMV to make sure the buyer is going to do the transfer properly. You are on the hook for your car until ownership has been transferred.
Auto club also good if either buyer or seller is a member. Lines are MUCH shorter. I sold a car to my neighbor that way, and when they told him to pay the sales tax, we walked to his bank, luckily nearby.
One thing about buying a salvage car, you should plan on keeping it until the wheels fall off. As a first car for my son was a salvage Hyundai with about 7000 miles for $6000. Checked the usual things out, everything worked. It had repaired front end damage, replaced right fender, bumper, right side lights, and hood. Repainted. No frame damage. Test drive was good. 8 years of driving my son put on over 175k miles very few problem, usual maintenance. Dealer/seller showed me all the paper work, he paid $3,200 for it. We sold the car cheap for $400 as the catalytic converter went bad and it would cost about $700.
Useful video. Heavy wear on the gas pedal rubber won't tally with low mileage. If the car has steel bodywork taking a small magnet along and placing it on areas commonly scuffed/scraped can reveal previous accident repairs as the magnet may not stick to those areas due to the presence of body filler. Feel the hood when you turn up. If it's warm the seller could have run it a while to hide cold start issues (it's also a warning not to open the coolant reservoir immediately). If a car has a tow hitch/ball mount fitted but not the hitch/ball itself, rust or wear around the bolt holes on the mount can can betray a hard life of heavy towing. That might not be an issue but be suspicious if the seller says it's never towed anything. And don't buy a car on a rainy day. Wet bodywork can hide all sorts of paintwork issues.
Dear Wizzard: Every time I ask for the title and if it's a salvage or rebuilt title and that they should email me a copy of the front and back of the title and a copy of Carfax, they all of a sudden block me on Facebook or they stop responding to me or they tell me the car is sold when it's not sold. Some scam dealers also have paid for overinflated values to be printed on top of the Carfax to ripoff the public
Check all the power windows, but also check each individual switch on all the doors. Make sure everything works. Every feature.
I loved your video, please stay healthy cause I need your informative videos. It's refreshing to know that there are good honest mechanics like you. I'm lucky to have a very good, honest shop that I can trust for repairs
I have a multiple page checklist I use. I crawl all over and under for about an hour before even starting it. Look in the trunk, pull back the carpet and look for bodywork. Are any of the panels different colors? Also check all the windows, are the labels the same. Look underneath for crumpled or kinked parts.
There are many decent salvage title cars out there. I bought one, 10 years ago. Yes, the repair paint wasn't perfect but I showed the "before" photos to an auto body expert and told me that a damaged car is more likely to be repaired if the damage is in the rear (front engine vehicle). I then talked to others who have owned multiple salvage title cars. Do your due diligence, have the car inspected, thoroughly, and you can save 50% over a clean title car. My car has been fantastic over these years.
I know people with cars that have had the entire front end replaced with clean titles that nobody will ever know about. So clean titles dont mean shit.
About the car scanner, some cars like my VW shows how many kilometers it drove since the last time the codes were cleared and how many times the car started since.
I also would suggest a cheap battery tester, when I got my car last years, one week later the battery died and wasn’t covered on the reseller warranty.
Another consideration is where do we meet. If I were to be interested in purchasing a car off of Facebook or craigslist, I would suggest meeting at the local police department. I have no idea about the person selling the car. Nor do the know anything about be. This would be safer for both parties. But if I mention the police dept. They say No way. Then I would not even consider buying from that individual.
One thing that can also help is to write up a checklist to bring with you when you look at the car. Print it out and get a clipboard to put it in. The last time I was looking for a car, I created a checklist from watching videos like yours, and put the print out on the clip board so I don't miss something I should look at. A couple of times I showed up with the clip board, almost immediately the seller has said something like "Sorry, it's just been sold or "Sorry, It's no longer forsale", and that tells me that there is possibly something wrong with the vehicle.
The paper checklist idea is a good one. The clipboard is funny, but I bet a lot of sales don't happen just because of that.
It means that they don't want to put up with that kind of scrutiny. I wouldn't either. You just can't always call the shots because you are a nervous buyer.
@@clifft7832 It's my money. I don't want to give it away to someone who might be trying to scam me. By the way, I have this great bridge from Brookyn for sale at a sweet price...
@@clifft7832 Why _wouldn't_ you want to put up with that kind of scrutiny? What's wrong with the car?
Very good idea
Surely when you are checking under the bonnet, you should also be checking the VIN plate and the punched number on the chassis, plus check the chassis legs for damage, straightness, different paint colour etc.
I believe at this point if the car is overpriced then its understandable to be so picky. If the car is offered at a good price as long as the mechanical parts of the car are good dont be acting like its a new car or the seller will kick you out of their house. Happened to me☺️
I checked out a subaru XT 2010 and i did those things, then i test drove it and it had a noise at boost. It had 160k miles and they wouldn't go down on the price after seeing that very little was done in the car fax. I'm glad i did.
#1 on the code reader...I bought one and had an issue with our Nissan Maxima post oil change at the dealer....turned out to be a MAF code...turns out they checked the airfilter but didn't put the air box correctly....back to the dealer with the code...and they admitted they caused the issue and corrected it.
#1 Rule when looking at a car,Never go look at a car at night,everything looks good at night,you want to go during the Day always.
#2 Rule when looking at a car,Make sure the engine is cold to the touch,it’s the best way to check the oil,coolant and other fluids,specially when looking under the oil cap to check if it has a blown head gasket if you see that peanut butter color gunk under the oil cap.
On the brake fluid. The level will drop as the pads/ shoes wear. If the level is low, check the state of the brake pads. It is not a good idea to top up brake fluid as it will spill when changing old pads/ shoes for new units.
That’s true but if you pop the bleeder valve open like you “supposed” to then it doesn’t matter much
Why do it get lower? Because of the wear of the brake material? Does it keep the pistons pushed out farther or something when the pads are thin?
Had this happen the first time I changed pads myself, and was confused/concerned there was something else wrong with the car until I did my research.
@@kalashnikov1343 The fluid level will drop in the master cylinder because as the pads/shoes wear the wheel cylinders will be further extended and hold more brake fluid. When you put on new pads/shoes it compresses the wheel cylinders back in and pushes the brake fluid back into the master cylinder.
Leaving the wheel cylinder bleeders closed and forcing the brake fluid back into the master cylinder is a really bad idea on cars with ABS brakes. The ABS valves and pump are extremely delicate and any particles from the downstream brake lines and wheel cylinders forced back through the ABS system can cause the ABS to fail.
1. only buy one owner cars. 2 . you are right about the title and walk around. 3. check all bolts for tool marks , if bolts have tool marks, its been worked on. 3. if the trans is full of new looking fluid, be care full. 4, your wright about the rest.
To be sure it's a one owner car, look at the title for "previous title number" it should say "MSO" (manufacturers statement of origin) anything else means it is NOT a one owner vehicle.
Thanks for another great video. My two daily drivers are salvage titles, but I knew that going into it.
I've put tens of thousands of care-free miles on my '06 Element and '03 Vitara 2 door.
Passing on any salvage titled vehicle is just the advice us bottom feeders like to hear.
Nothing wrong with them as the body man knows what's doing.
I bought several, minor stuff and have a solid
Piece of transportation, have one now low miles,
Needs a headlight and fender…
@@rickreese5794 I got this '06 Element for a steal with under 100k miles. Needed a few odds and ends but I got it sorted and it's been a winner. Coast to coast camper.
Brought a salvage ford. Only damage was the grandma put in reverse and floored it (instead of the brake). Tail light, bumper cover, 2 rear shocks, and a slightly off-center tail gate on the hatch back.
There's one sitting in my driveway. I always like to ask the seller of pictures of damage prior to repairs. Nothing wrong with salvage titles, these days shopping around Copart there's a lot with minor damage that are salvage due to no available parts.
Tried to buy this truck from some dude, said it’s was his moms, had the title and everything, ran a car fax and it popped up being reported stolen, even if they got the title you can’t never be safe
Had a friend with a Charger, at the job site, the auto transmission pawg in the shifter broke, he couldn't even shift it out of park.🤦♂️
What's a pawg? Something in your predictive text that you search for often?!
@@bodysuitguy 😂😂
@@bodysuitguy
Perfect Ass White Girl(s). Parking pawls are yesterday's technology.
If I recall, there's a plastic piece in the shifter panel. And to shift it out of park is to take a screwdriver and take the trim bezel off, and inside there's a cable and if you move that along with the shifter it'll go out of park.
My dad has a 300 and I bet it's the plastic piece inside the shifter panel. They make metal aftermarket ones bc it was so common on them.
@@bodysuitguy oh my gosh, that comment brought me so much joi.
A couple more simple checks. Are all 4 tyres matching (same manufacturer, size and type) and all with similar tread left. Open the boot (trunk) and check that there is a spare wheel with a jack (unless it is one of the newer vehicles with run flats and no spare of course). You can also look inside the boot for any signs of accident damage or repairs by lfting the carpet.
If they have access to a lift, I usually request it to be put up on the rack so I can inspect the underneath. There you will usually see how well the car was taken care of by the amount of corrosion, the condition of the suspension, exhaust, see any leaks, or loose parts. Ive seen cars that "look" great and once I peak underneath, they look like they went 200K on a saltwater highway without ever being washed.
Solid Video with good advice. However I have always recommended to my friends & family that they take the car being sold to a mechanic that SPECIALIZES in that make of car. This way they are familiar with all the things that can/will go wrong with that particular car and be able to warn you accordingly.
Car Wizard, one thing you left out. If your buying from a private seller always do the transaction at your local DMV.
This actually protects both buyer and seller. I consider this step mandatory. If the seller won't agree, pass on the car.
Auto Club works too.
Should check tire tread too just to see if you have to replace the tires soon. Think of the reasons why a lot of people dump cars. They usually don't want to pay to fix SOMETHING, so almost ALWAYS there is pending maintenance to be done.
I got a great deal on my current car, did the research, it was a Salvage title, from a major accident, but was put back together pretty darn well, the paint doesn't match completely in a number of places, but what I neglected to check was the AC and the CD-player - both of which were dead or damaged. But, for a 2000 Honda Civic with 120K miles, for $1,900 six years ago, that I have only put about another $1k in in upkeep, I am happy - but this gave me a couple more things to look at if I get another car, thank you, Wizard
I just went to look at a used car. Met the guy at the shopping center and he just tried to rush me. As soon as I grabbed my OBD scanner he slammed the hood shut, jumped in the drivers seat and took off.
Did he want to meet you at the shopping center? Bad sign if the engine is warm.
Wizard: "make sure it does not say junk, salvage or off highway"
Ed and Freddie: "pffft... Whatever" 🙄
Spare tire, you would be amazed how many of the GM car's don't come with a spare tire or even a place to put one, and they don't come with run flat's.
The sunroof is probably something that should DEFINITELY be checked out by you even if you never plan on using it. Sometimes they have defects in the design that don't come up during warranty period (because it wasn't used) and it's one of those things that probably isn't a "cheap DIY fix". Even if you don't need it, you will have to fix it before you ever sell it.
i.e. nearly every year ford focus since 09. Every headliner is stained from the sunroof drains clogging due to being only about 1.5mm wide. It takes just a few grains of sand to clog them in a day or two then rain fills the entire roof of the car then spills inside the entire interior of the roof then rest of the vehicle. Literally flooding the entire vehicle. EVERY single focus I've been in had brown head liners and mold in every crevice of the body
If your focus has this issue. You must clean out the 2 drain ports weekly.
"you will have to fix it before you sell it" last guy didn't, why do i
the mustard yellow / white pick-up is what i want !!
First thing you need to check for is if it has a dodge logo in my opinion 😂. My girlfriend has a 2016 charger. Only 120,000 miles, shes had to replace the subframe, water pump, thermostat, all four breaks, new radiator, had to get all new sway bar, all 4 new motor mounts, check engine light is CONSTANTLY on, and wont go off, tpms system no matter how much you fix it, that light will also never turn off
just a few other things that might help
it's best to look at a car when it hasn't been running and the engine is cold. sometimes a vehicle will have a problem with starting cold.do all inspections before starting the engine. then after you shut the engine off, wait a few minutes for the fluids to settle and check them again. also restart the vehicle after it's up to temperature. sometimes there's a problem with starting after they're warmed up too.
also, besides a mirror and flashlight, a good thing to take with you is a magnet. if the paint looks off in an area, see if the magnet sticks. if it doesn't, that means there's plastic body filler there. also look and feel around the door, trunk, and hood jambs. if they aren't smooth, it's most likely a tape line from painting. if you notice that a repair has been made, check everything in that area. example, Wizard showed the damage on his car. if I was looking at that car I would look inside the trunk thoroughly to look for damage and paint differences. look under the vehicle for the same. also if you see undercoating that doesn't look factory, it's probably hiding damage.
if you live in an area where they salt the roads in the winter. check the frame and around the wheel openings for rust or repairs. be cautious if you see undercoating. I've seen cars where the frame was duct taped and undercoated to hide rust holes. if you see a little rust it's normal. but if it's scaly tap on it with a screwdriver to see if it's solid. if you push through with the screwdriver, walk away.
hope this helps
I made some of those mistakes when I bought my first car. Luckily the worst thing that I missed was a stuck shut sunroof, but I wish I had been more attentive when I was looking it over
My 2009 Dodge Charger has been a great car for the last 8 yrs. Small issues like fuses or nails in tires, but as far as the engine, it's been awesome. (knock on wood). Also, you can't check the transmission fluid because you need a special dipstick for it. @13:11
You better knock on wood since hemis tend to knock on valves.
@@EvanDickersonM81 2005 Chrysler 300C in my garage right now with 187,000 miles and my Hemi runs strong like the day I bought it 4 years ago with almost half the miles. Take care of them properly and they last as long as anything else. Biggest issue I've had is my coolant started boiling in the overflow tank last year, almost overheated but I shut it down quick before the temp needle got to the H - almost thought it was a head gasket but turned out to be a clogged radiator (I neglected my antifreeze flush intervals).
@My Pronoun is WTF Leaving the gas cap loose will throw a check engine light, which also disables the MDS
@My Pronoun is WTF it's called hemi tick, it's a known issue. I've yet to hear of Toyota tick or Honda knock. buddy has a 09 challenger that got it and ended up needing a whole bank of valves and rockers.
@@chynacash3138 buddies 09 challenger got it after not even 100k miles. Not all hemis will get it but it has a common nickname for a reason.
No one likes getting ripped off , nit pick everything like a dealer would do , hate everything, it smells, it's noisy, it shakes , it leaks , I hate the color , it's my kids first car , let's talk
Great advice. A lot of people find out after the fact how hard it is to drive a bargain.
20:17 when you pulled that line that’s when I knew I needed to leave 😂got enough info 💀
One important thing that could be added is checking the oil fill cap area for sticky oil or moisture which would also indicate head gasket failure or water entering oil.
Number one priority 👌
My personal take : the first thing I check is the oil stick - if the oil is dirty and low there's a good chance the motor burns oil - then just verify if the exhaust pipe is full of black soot which confirms the engine is burning oil - walk away unless you intend to replace the engine . Any oil leaks in the engine compartment could indicate the engine is "pumping oil" - walk away. Next check the radiator for corrosion and leaks and while the engine is cold check the rad fluid level which if low could indicate the engine is using Prestone. Walk away because a blown head gasket could be the cause. Bring a friend who knows cars well or better yet spend the money to have the car checked by a mechanic. If the seller refuses - walk away.
Friend of mine purchased a car from a “as is” used car lot.
Come nighttime, he found out that the headlights didn’t work. I teased him for years about that one….
That would be my luck
@@pops55650 i bought a car from a new car dealer (but this one was used) transmission went out the same month but car was sold "as-is" so I was fked.
Wizard, you are amazing. That bit about the title just saved me so much trouble. I was about to go look at a toyota camry and when I asked if the sellers name was on the title, I got an elaborate story about why it wasn't in their name. Wow. Thank you!
I definitely make a title/vehicle ownership history report blundering mistake last time I bought an old van, luckily for me, the issue wasn't too bad in the end, but boy it could have been much worse and I really didn't need the extra stress, I now definitely agree, title is the first thing to check for sure.
I'd also like to point out that if you get any bad gut feelings, as either a seller or buyer, stop the transaction immediately. There are quite a few people who's sole source of income is lawsuits.