Just changed mine based on your information. The hose clips are tricky items and I found pulling the hoses off themselves was a bit of a task. On disassembly, there was water and gunk in the control valve coil housing. Purchased the new HCV off ebay for a tenner and now have full heat and AC control. Many thanks for this
THANK YOU. Exactly what I have been looking for. I have a Ford Eplorer (EXPLODER) SPORTRAC with plastic heater valve, that cracked on one of the ports it must have been the intake port. I ordered a replacement of Ebay for $20.00.
Boss now all good.it was a hcv prob.i opened the hcv.it requires bit of cleaning.have rust and plumper spring bit of jamming. Clean it and give bit of lube.now good Thanks for ur support
I cant believe they design this so if it fails the car over heats. Never had these in my GM vehicles. BMW got a new rad, water pump and tstat and still overheating. Changing this do-hicky tonight.
Kolin Stallman It's a lousy design not helped by a flood of cheap pattern parts on the market. The main fault with this setup is failure of the internal diaphragm seal allows coolant to leak out through the solenoid body. The other main fault is any blockages of the HCV bypass port causes overheating - although I've only seen that happen on HCV's of the type in the videos.
Mine was broken when I took it out but it was failed open ish. My heating issue turned out to be the fan all along. Such a dumbass lol, didn't even test it, but at least I have a refreshed cooling system now, those fan prices are ridiculous! Had to go with a used one, wish me luck.
Thanks for the vid! Useful info, learned a lot. I am wondering.. When the engine is cold, and you turn the heating switch in the cabin to max would this still trip the valve, and let the coolant circulate in the matrix? Cheers
Yes. On a cold engine, coolant will only circulate around the cylinder head and matrix so long as thermostat is working correctly. This ensures the engine warms up as quickly as possible (as combustion chambers transfer their heat to the coolant channels in the cyl head) and to allow hot coolant to flow through the heater matrix. Of course this all depends on a cooling system that is working properly.
On these HCV, default valve position is 'open' so hot coolant will flow to heater matrix. The valve needs current to close the valve against spring pressure. When 'cold' is selected on control panel, the variable resistor allows more current to flow to the solenoid valve in the HCV. This fully energises it which closes the port to the matrix. Faults occur when HCV fails so spring keeps it open or it leaks internally into the solenoid which corrodes up and fails open or closed, control panel PCB can fail or supply fuse blows. Worst failure is when old valve breaks up and debris blocks bypass port so coolant can't circulate around the cylinder head which causes overheating. HCV can also leak coolant surprisingly fast.
@@TK42138 Ahh i see makes sense, maybe a cooling system with flaps (doors), so the coolant always flow in the matrix is a better design.. i would leave that to the engineers :) Very good explanation you give, im starting at school to become an authorized mechanic. after all this corona lock down, so just trying to learn as much as possible about various designs...
Classickid21 On the Fiesta Endura E the block drain plug is on lower front left hand side of block. If it hasn't been moved in a while, wire brush it and soak in Plusgas or similar before attempting to loosen it.
Dont talk to me about makers using bloody plastic items that are not suitable for the tasks that they are suppose to perform.Luckily, Ford decided to scrap this valve with the next gen Fiesta which we have, to go back to the trusted cable type valve.Though they still use a plastic part for the clutch MASTER CYLINDER!!!!!!....Mad
I'm trying to use this valve in a project where i need to bypass a radiator. When no voltage is applied and i blow in one of the ports, air escapes from all of them. when 12V is applied to the solenoid, one port is blocked and i get air escaping from the other 2 ports. Is that normal ? i would expect to have the bypass closed when no voltage is applied. Please help.
Is it possible with a faulty HCV for the ac to work when the vehicle is cold at a ambient temp of 70 degrees but as the engine coolant warms and the ambient temp increases throughout the day cause the ac to blow hot air as things heat up?
I think it would depend on whether the AC system has heater coolant temperature sensor that overrides signal from cabin temperature selector controls. For example if HCV failure is causing cabin to heat up but the AC controls are set to COLD, the AC will detect fault so won't pump cold air because the HVAC will essentially be fighting itself. Most modern systems work together so a HCV fault will prevent AC blowing cold.
I'm having the AC problem described above on a 2008 Gallardo. Everything checks out on the AC side including froen levels. The thing works great till things heat up. I'm thinking the HCV could be the culprit.
Hi, yes, you can bypass the HCV using hose joiners. I did the same when I originally bought the Fiesta (because the HCV failed) so there would be cabin heat in winter. The inlet pipe should have flow direction arrows marked on it (if it's original pipe). You'll need two hose joiners and four hose clips since you'll be joining the hot coolant pipe from engine to the inlet of the matrix and joining the matrix outlet to the return hose.
@@TK42138 Thank you kindly for the prompt reply, my plan is to join the supply from the engine to the return to engine effectively creating a loop before it reaches the HCV. I don't require the heater as I live in a hot area. From your answer I reckon I'd be safe to do so. Cheers
I fitted one of these (from Euro Car Parts) to my neighbor's SportKa about a month ago and it looks like it's already failed - losing coolant, smell in the cabin. Bastard thing. Out of interest, if you're caught out, do you reckon coolant loss can be minimised by setting the heater either fully on or off?
If the heater valve seals have failed, then the coolant will leak out via the small hole in the solenoid cover surprisingly fast. When mine leaked, it pretty much emptied the coolant expansion tank in less than two miles.
Hi@@TK42138, could you please help? My heater on my ford streetka was stuck on blowing hot air. I replaced the HCV using your videos. And now my heater only blows cold air! The coolant tank appears empty and there is no fluid going through the HCV. What type of engine coolant do I need? And how do I bleed the system. Is it easy to do? Many thanks
@@hugohenderson1788 Ford StreetKa uses Ford's red OAT type coolant or equivalent type for instance this; www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/antifreeze-and-screenwash/red-antifreeze/?523770511&0&cc5_866&type=shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5r26warm3gIVFpzVCh3eGwrOEAQYASABEgJTKPD_BwE
@@hugohenderson1788 When you top up the coolant level, start engine with coolant reservoir cap off and allow engine to idle but keep an eye on temperature gauge. As engine warms up and thermostat opens, radiator top hose should start getting hot. Coolant level will probably drop so top it up and replace pressure cap. Check for leaks then switch off. When engine has cooled down, at least an hour or next day, check coolant level BEFORE starting engine. If it needs topping up, bring it up to the level on the expansion tank.
@@TK42138 Okay great. I'll give that a try! Do you think it's a simple case of bleeding the system and adding coolant? Based on the symptom I'm getting of cold air with the new HCV? Thanks again
I found this video on TH-cam. It might be useful. Apparently the A8 has a secondary thermostat or regulator valve that can cause engine to run cold and cause lack of cabin heat. th-cam.com/video/mBLrl-fgQh0/w-d-xo.html
Hi there, I've been advised on numerous things in regards to my W reg 2.4 rwd Transit van, the temperature gauge only gets to a quarter when driving and then all of a sudden the gauge shoots over to the red and stays there for a few seconds and returns to quarter, ive thermo tested all the pipes and radiator and there are umpteen different readings, the main top hose is hot and solid whilst other pipes are quite cool, the two pipes going into the matrix are of different temperatures also as one will be scolding hot and the other warm, I've changed the waterpump, thermostat and tensioner, also there is only warm air being blown into the cab when I turn the heater on. I'm totally lost and anyone I ask says its different things. Would you know anything about this?
Hi, I'm not familiar with the 2.4 lump (I used to run smiley face '97 Transit with 2.5 di) but can't remember if the 2.4 engine has a secondary thermostat fitted. If it does then a sticking secondary will cause temperature fluctuations. Also a faulty radiator and/or pressure cap on coolant expansion reservoir will cause problems. Also worth flushing and reverse flushing the radiator with garden hose. Doesn't take much grot to affect coolant flow. Also check; Coolant level. Too low and heater function will be poor.
It could be a fault with the temperature control printed circuit board that isn't commanding the heater valve to close. Assuming the valve is working, check the fuse that protects the system. If it has blown then there won't be any power to the valve and this valve default (unpowered) mode is open so full heat.
@@domintemihai9569 If it's the same type of Fiesta as in the video, then fuse is in the fusebox on drivers side. I think it is F13 (fuse 13 in main fusebox) but that's according to the Haynes Manual wiring diagram for 'wash/wipe and heater blower up to February 2000'. It's been years since I sold the Fiesta so having to work from memory and old Haynes. If fuse is intact, put a test meter on the heater control valve connector plug with ignition on and see if there is a voltage present.
@@TK42138 Thanks again for your fast reply, its and ford ka 2006 1.3 petrol, i will check a wiring diagram, so i need to check for the fuse of heating control panel?
@@domintemihai9569 If it's similar to the Fiesta electrical layout then it might still be Fuse 13 which protects the heater control valve and other circuits. If fuse has blown then no power will reach the heater valve so it will be stuck open giving full heat all the time. The driver's handbook should list fuse numbers and what areas they protect.
Was your AC working correctly before the warm air fault? Switch the AC off and then test the cabin heater controls. With the control set to cool, if there is still warm air then HCV is probably at fault.
Most electrically actuated heater control valves tend to work on the same principle, but there will be differences to the bypass port arrangement. With the unit in the video, I think Ford designed it so if it failed, it failed in full cabin heat mode since spring pressure naturally keeps valve open until current is applied. The important thing is ensuring bypass port remains clear of debris.
The Mk7 Fiesta doesn't have a heater valve but uses an cold/hot air blending flap within the HVAC unit to control the amount of air passing over the heater matrix. Common fault is the cable actuated arm breaks or the cable attached to it falls off so flap doesn't move. Accessed behind a panel on drivers side of the dashboard/centre console. www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/103647-ford-fiesta-mk7-climate-control-heater-actuators-and-controls/
PLEASE PLEASE SOMEONE HELP ME ANYONE PLEASE HELP I HAVE A LINCOLN LS V8 AND HEATING COOLING VALVE HAS BEEN REPLACE BUT THE PASSENGER SIDE AIR IS STILL HOT AND DRIVER SIDE AIR IS COLD. I HAVE CHECKED THE 10 AMP FUSE THE RED COLOR FUSE ITS O/K. I HAVE CLAMP THE HOSES THAT GOES TO DCCV AND SAME PROBLEM WE HAVE BLEED THE ANTI FREEZE. I WENT TO MACHANIC SHOP ASKED HIM TO CHECK MY FREON HE DID CHECK ITS BUT TOOK ALL MY FREON. SO I WENT TO ANOTHER MECHANIC SHOP AND HE SHOWED ME I HAVE NO FREON REPLACE FREON. ANY ONE PLEASE HELP
RJ PRODUCTION Unfortunately I'm not familiar with HVAC on the Lincoln LS V8 but I've had a look on forums and it seems to be a fairly common problem. Several forum posts suggested air distribution flaps not working correctly, low aircon gas, so both cooling coils not getting enough aircon gas flow, (carefully check high and low pressure aircon pipes - low pressure should be colder than high pressure side) faulty DCCV (dual climate control valve), aircon compressor fault.
As the hot coolant transfers heat to the heater matrix, the overall coolant temperature will drop slightly. However the important thing is that the temperature gauge doesn't go into the red when the heater control is switched to cold.
TK42138 i have a bmw f10 diesel And its at middle then i turn on heater it immediately drops from half to quarter down then if i dont Go little hard on the car it wont go back up But i have hot
TK42138 it has digital Tacho and in secret menu i can check the Oil temp water temp everything..so basically i let the engine warm up without using Heater , my oil temp is when warm is 93-95c Water is 80-88c depends on my driving style ,,,,,, then once it gets operational temp i turn on the heater it immediately drops Oil temp from for example From 93c to 80c,,, Water temp from 83c to 70c then if car is idling It never turns back to Operational temp unless i Go to highway and drive it hard
Craptastic design, a result of manufacturer's obsession with using "by wire" for everything. I guess it works out cheaper than using a simple cable operated valve as used to be the case. These valves, even genuine OEM, which regulate temperature with pulses of open-shut-open every few seconds, WILL fail, it's a matter of WHEN not IF.
I just noticed that Ford went back to mechanical valves on the next generation of cars, as good as admitting that they've lumbered millions of owners with a system that's inherently unfit for purpose.
Standard 1/2" copper pipe, a tap and some T junctions. Ignore the supply altogether. This plastic mechatronics nightmare is not fit for purpose. How? Well after making your 'H', simply adjust the tap for the desired amount of heat. Can't adjust it from the dash? Stop being a snowflake - you'l only need to do this a few times a year!
Just changed mine based on your information. The hose clips are tricky items and I found pulling the hoses off themselves was a bit of a task. On disassembly, there was water and gunk in the control valve coil housing. Purchased the new HCV off ebay for a tenner and now have full heat and AC control. Many thanks for this
THANK YOU. Exactly what I have been looking for. I have a Ford Eplorer (EXPLODER) SPORTRAC with plastic heater valve, that cracked on one of the ports it must have been the intake port. I ordered a replacement of Ebay for $20.00.
Boss now all good.it was a hcv prob.i opened the hcv.it requires bit of cleaning.have rust and plumper spring bit of jamming. Clean it and give bit of lube.now good
Thanks for ur support
Glad to help.
Thank you! My heater has been uncontrollably hot even if i've put it on cool.this has helped me a lot.
I cant believe they design this so if it fails the car over heats. Never had these in my GM vehicles. BMW got a new rad, water pump and tstat and still overheating. Changing this do-hicky tonight.
Kolin Stallman It's a lousy design not helped by a flood of cheap pattern parts on the market. The main fault with this setup is failure of the internal diaphragm seal allows coolant to leak out through the solenoid body. The other main fault is any blockages of the HCV bypass port causes overheating - although I've only seen that happen on HCV's of the type in the videos.
Mine was broken when I took it out but it was failed open ish. My heating issue turned out to be the fan all along. Such a dumbass lol, didn't even test it, but at least I have a refreshed cooling system now, those fan prices are ridiculous! Had to go with a used one, wish me luck.
Thanks for the vid!
Useful info, learned a lot.
I am wondering..
When the engine is cold, and you turn the heating switch in the cabin to max
would this still trip the valve, and let the coolant circulate in the matrix?
Cheers
Yes. On a cold engine, coolant will only circulate around the cylinder head and matrix so long as thermostat is working correctly. This ensures the engine warms up as quickly as possible (as combustion chambers transfer their heat to the coolant channels in the cyl head) and to allow hot coolant to flow through the heater matrix. Of course this all depends on a cooling system that is working properly.
On these HCV, default valve position is 'open' so hot coolant will flow to heater matrix. The valve needs current to close the valve against spring pressure. When 'cold' is selected on control panel, the variable resistor allows more current to flow to the solenoid valve in the HCV. This fully energises it which closes the port to the matrix. Faults occur when HCV fails so spring keeps it open or it leaks internally into the solenoid which corrodes up and fails open or closed, control panel PCB can fail or supply fuse blows. Worst failure is when old valve breaks up and debris blocks bypass port so coolant can't circulate around the cylinder head which causes overheating. HCV can also leak coolant surprisingly fast.
@@TK42138 Ahh i see makes sense, maybe a cooling system with flaps (doors), so the coolant always flow in the matrix is a better design.. i would leave that to the engineers :) Very good explanation you give, im starting at school to become an authorized mechanic. after all this corona lock down, so just trying to learn as much as possible about various designs...
@@pansaw408 Good luck with your career.
Thanks 👍
Great bit of info, where is the coolant drain bung on the engine block ?
Classickid21 On the Fiesta Endura E the block drain plug is on lower front left hand side of block. If it hasn't been moved in a while, wire brush it and soak in Plusgas or similar before attempting to loosen it.
Classickid21 Left hand side of engine from point of view of driver sitting in drivers seat.
Thank you, i was just double checking
Thanks!
Dont talk to me about makers using bloody plastic items that are not suitable for the tasks that they are suppose to perform.Luckily, Ford decided to scrap this valve with the next gen Fiesta which we have, to go back to the trusted cable type valve.Though they still use a plastic part for the clutch MASTER CYLINDER!!!!!!....Mad
I have a 09 plate fiesta .very little heat ..any idea..coolant OK..thanks
All vehicles have plastic cooling systems. Theres a good reason for it... Glass fiber reinforced nylon is stronger then aluminium.
I'm trying to use this valve in a project where i need to bypass a radiator. When no voltage is applied and i blow in one of the ports, air escapes from all of them. when 12V is applied to the solenoid, one port is blocked and i get air escaping from the other 2 ports. Is that normal ? i would expect to have the bypass closed when no voltage is applied. Please help.
V good
Is it possible with a faulty HCV for the ac to work when the vehicle is cold at a ambient temp of 70 degrees but as the engine coolant warms and the ambient temp increases throughout the day cause the ac to blow hot air as things heat up?
I think it would depend on whether the AC system has heater coolant temperature sensor that overrides signal from cabin temperature selector controls. For example if HCV failure is causing cabin to heat up but the AC controls are set to COLD, the AC will detect fault so won't pump cold air because the HVAC will essentially be fighting itself. Most modern systems work together so a HCV fault will prevent AC blowing cold.
I'm having the AC problem described above on a 2008 Gallardo. Everything checks out on the AC side including froen levels. The thing works great till things heat up. I'm thinking the HCV could be the culprit.
Good day, could I bypass this valve unit altogether by joining the supply and return hoses? Would appreciate any advise. Thanks
Hi, yes, you can bypass the HCV using hose joiners. I did the same when I originally bought the Fiesta (because the HCV failed) so there would be cabin heat in winter. The inlet pipe should have flow direction arrows marked on it (if it's original pipe). You'll need two hose joiners and four hose clips since you'll be joining the hot coolant pipe from engine to the inlet of the matrix and joining the matrix outlet to the return hose.
@@TK42138 Thank you kindly for the prompt reply, my plan is to join the supply from the engine to the return to engine effectively creating a loop before it reaches the HCV. I don't require the heater as I live in a hot area. From your answer I reckon I'd be safe to do so. Cheers
In that case then yes - you can join the heater inlet to the outlet pipe thus bypassing the HCV and the matrix to retain correct coolant flow.
I fitted one of these (from Euro Car Parts) to my neighbor's SportKa about a month ago and it looks like it's already failed - losing coolant, smell in the cabin. Bastard thing. Out of interest, if you're caught out, do you reckon coolant loss can be minimised by setting the heater either fully on or off?
If the heater valve seals have failed, then the coolant will leak out via the small hole in the solenoid cover surprisingly fast. When mine leaked, it pretty much emptied the coolant expansion tank in less than two miles.
Hi@@TK42138, could you please help? My heater on my ford streetka was stuck on blowing hot air. I replaced the HCV using your videos. And now my heater only blows cold air! The coolant tank appears empty and there is no fluid going through the HCV. What type of engine coolant do I need? And how do I bleed the system. Is it easy to do? Many thanks
@@hugohenderson1788 Ford StreetKa uses Ford's red OAT type coolant or equivalent type for instance this;
www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/antifreeze-and-screenwash/red-antifreeze/?523770511&0&cc5_866&type=shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5r26warm3gIVFpzVCh3eGwrOEAQYASABEgJTKPD_BwE
@@hugohenderson1788 When you top up the coolant level, start engine with coolant reservoir cap off and allow engine to idle but keep an eye on temperature gauge. As engine warms up and thermostat opens, radiator top hose should start getting hot. Coolant level will probably drop so top it up and replace pressure cap. Check for leaks then switch off. When engine has cooled down, at least an hour or next day, check coolant level BEFORE starting engine. If it needs topping up, bring it up to the level on the expansion tank.
@@TK42138 Okay great. I'll give that a try! Do you think it's a simple case of bleeding the system and adding coolant? Based on the symptom I'm getting of cold air with the new HCV? Thanks again
I have a Audi A8 2006. It looks like the heater module has had some bypass on it and there is no hot air. Any ideas what is the solution for this plz
Hi, I'm not familiar with the Audi A8 heater setup. Might be worth contacting Audi A8 forums or Facebook groups.
I found this video on TH-cam. It might be useful. Apparently the A8 has a secondary thermostat or regulator valve that can cause engine to run cold and cause lack of cabin heat.
th-cam.com/video/mBLrl-fgQh0/w-d-xo.html
Hi there, I've been advised on numerous things in regards to my W reg 2.4 rwd Transit van, the temperature gauge only gets to a quarter when driving and then all of a sudden the gauge shoots over to the red and stays there for a few seconds and returns to quarter, ive thermo tested all the pipes and radiator and there are umpteen different readings, the main top hose is hot and solid whilst other pipes are quite cool, the two pipes going into the matrix are of different temperatures also as one will be scolding hot and the other warm, I've changed the waterpump, thermostat and tensioner, also there is only warm air being blown into the cab when I turn the heater on. I'm totally lost and anyone I ask says its different things. Would you know anything about this?
Hi, I'm not familiar with the 2.4 lump (I used to run smiley face '97 Transit with 2.5 di) but can't remember if the 2.4 engine has a secondary thermostat fitted. If it does then a sticking secondary will cause temperature fluctuations. Also a faulty radiator and/or pressure cap on coolant expansion reservoir will cause problems.
Also worth flushing and reverse flushing the radiator with garden hose. Doesn't take much grot to affect coolant flow.
Also check;
Coolant level. Too low and heater function will be poor.
Did some Googling and found this Transit van forum. Seems to be a known problem.
fordtransit.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=153166
Hello, i have changed that thing but i still get only hot air from the ac control, no matter if ac is turned on.. What would you advise the fault is?
It could be a fault with the temperature control printed circuit board that isn't commanding the heater valve to close. Assuming the valve is working, check the fuse that protects the system. If it has blown then there won't be any power to the valve and this valve default (unpowered) mode is open so full heat.
@@TK42138 thanks alot for the reply., i was thinking the topic is "dead" , however, can you be so kind and tell me where do i find that fuse?
@@domintemihai9569 If it's the same type of Fiesta as in the video, then fuse is in the fusebox on drivers side. I think it is F13 (fuse 13 in main fusebox) but that's according to the Haynes Manual wiring diagram for 'wash/wipe and heater blower up to February 2000'. It's been years since I sold the Fiesta so having to work from memory and old Haynes. If fuse is intact, put a test meter on the heater control valve connector plug with ignition on and see if there is a voltage present.
@@TK42138 Thanks again for your fast reply, its and ford ka 2006 1.3 petrol, i will check a wiring diagram, so i need to check for the fuse of heating control panel?
@@domintemihai9569 If it's similar to the Fiesta electrical layout then it might still be Fuse 13 which protects the heater control valve and other circuits. If fuse has blown then no power will reach the heater valve so it will be stuck open giving full heat all the time. The driver's handbook should list fuse numbers and what areas they protect.
In my fiesta Ac give cool air for few kms then starts blowing hot air.is thera any chance of heater valve failure??
Was your AC working correctly before the warm air fault?
Switch the AC off and then test the cabin heater controls. With the control set to cool, if there is still warm air then HCV is probably at fault.
Where is move it
By George, this is most likely relevant to all American/European vehicles???!!!
Most electrically actuated heater control valves tend to work on the same principle, but there will be differences to the bypass port arrangement. With the unit in the video, I think Ford designed it so if it failed, it failed in full cabin heat mode since spring pressure naturally keeps valve open until current is applied. The important thing is ensuring bypass port remains clear of debris.
@@TK42138 Thanx, good stuff indeed.
Ok mines gotta be the valve then in my mk7 replaced the actuator thinking it was that but still no heat
The Mk7 Fiesta doesn't have a heater valve but uses an cold/hot air blending flap within the HVAC unit to control the amount of air passing over the heater matrix. Common fault is the cable actuated arm breaks or the cable attached to it falls off so flap doesn't move. Accessed behind a panel on drivers side of the dashboard/centre console.
www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/103647-ford-fiesta-mk7-climate-control-heater-actuators-and-controls/
@@TK42138 I’m talking about the N85 valve yes it does it is a thing ..
@@TK42138 I’m talking about Volkswagen not ford I’m similar issue sorry for confusion
No worries.
PLEASE PLEASE SOMEONE HELP ME
ANYONE PLEASE HELP I HAVE A LINCOLN LS V8 AND HEATING COOLING VALVE HAS BEEN REPLACE BUT
THE PASSENGER SIDE AIR IS STILL HOT AND DRIVER SIDE AIR IS COLD.
I HAVE CHECKED THE 10 AMP FUSE THE RED COLOR FUSE ITS O/K. I HAVE CLAMP THE HOSES THAT
GOES TO DCCV AND SAME PROBLEM WE HAVE BLEED THE ANTI FREEZE. I WENT TO MACHANIC SHOP ASKED HIM TO CHECK MY FREON HE DID CHECK ITS BUT TOOK ALL MY FREON. SO I WENT TO ANOTHER MECHANIC SHOP
AND HE SHOWED ME I HAVE NO FREON REPLACE FREON. ANY ONE PLEASE HELP
RJ PRODUCTION Unfortunately I'm not familiar with HVAC on the Lincoln LS V8 but I've had a look on forums and it seems to be a fairly common problem. Several forum posts suggested air distribution flaps not working correctly, low aircon gas, so both cooling coils not getting enough aircon gas flow, (carefully check high and low pressure aircon pipes - low pressure should be colder than high pressure side) faulty DCCV (dual climate control valve), aircon compressor fault.
Mine is when i turn heat on highest dettings lowest fan my temp gauge drops down
As the hot coolant transfers heat to the heater matrix, the overall coolant temperature will drop slightly. However the important thing is that the temperature gauge doesn't go into the red when the heater control is switched to cold.
TK42138 i have a bmw f10 diesel And its at middle then i turn on heater it immediately drops from half to quarter down then if i dont Go little hard on the car it wont go back up But i have hot
@@bmwsincekid What does temperature gauge read when engine is idling in traffic but with the heater off?
TK42138 it has digital Tacho and in secret menu i can check the Oil temp water temp everything..so basically i let the engine warm up without using Heater , my oil temp is when warm is 93-95c Water is 80-88c depends on my driving style ,,,,,, then once it gets operational temp i turn on the heater it immediately drops Oil temp from for example From 93c to 80c,,, Water temp from 83c to 70c then if car is idling It never turns back to Operational temp unless i Go to highway and drive it hard
@@bmwsincekid Is the coolant at the correct level? The coolant expansion bottle might have a coolant hot and a coolant cold level marked on it.
Craptastic design, a result of manufacturer's obsession with using "by wire" for everything. I guess it works out cheaper than using a simple cable operated valve as used to be the case. These valves, even genuine OEM, which regulate temperature with pulses of open-shut-open every few seconds, WILL fail, it's a matter of WHEN not IF.
Had I kept the car, I would have retrofitted a cable operated heater valve.
I just noticed that Ford went back to mechanical valves on the next generation of cars, as good as admitting that they've lumbered millions of owners with a system that's inherently unfit for purpose.
@@EliteRock It's true, I also have an older Ford Escort and the hot air control is by cable and has never caused any problems
Standard 1/2" copper pipe, a tap and some T junctions. Ignore the supply altogether. This plastic mechatronics nightmare is not fit for purpose. How? Well after making your 'H', simply adjust the tap for the desired amount of heat. Can't adjust it from the dash? Stop being a snowflake - you'l only need to do this a few times a year!
Can get these www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/sliding-heater-valve-kit
How did you make that apex Mike?