The first car I drove with my grandpa, as a 12 year old. And also the first car I ever was allowed to repair. I took out the carburetor and cleaned it, with no supervision. Just some brief explanations from the grown ups. Their trust made me feel like superman. And I have rarely been afraid to take on anything mechanical since.
There is a bit of a learning curve to installing one of these bus engines. The technique I have found that works is to use two floor jacks, one for the trans and one the engine. Get the engine and trans mated before you try and bring the rear engine support up to its resting position.Get the upper two trans bolts through the body and supporting the engine before you secure the rear mount) The flexible tube that the clutch cable runs through is called a "boden or bowden tube" (boden in German is ground or floor). In any case the tube allows for some rocking of the engine without tugging the clutch cable. Tip: many "bugs" that show clutch chattering can be fixed by installing washers so as there is more of a loop in the boden tube (you will be lucky if this works as there are so many reasons for a VW clutch to chatter).
In 1968 my Dad taught me the hydraulic method of removing pilot bearings/bushings: Fill the cavity with wheel bearing grease, find a dowel about the same outside diameter as the inside diameter as the bushing/bearing. Use tape to adjust the outside diameter of the dowel to be about 0.001 or so bigger than the inside diameter of the bushing/bearing. Take a hammer and pound dowel into the center of the bushing/bearing. You will then observe the non-compressible physics of a fluid (essentially) and the bushing/bearing will be forced out.
A good tool for removing those is exactly that bolt, with a modification. Slice it down the middle, aaaalll the way up, then, once you've placed it inside, use a nail to split the two sides apart so they catch the lip of the bearing. Works great.
Use an MDF slug (glue multiple sheets together) to punch those in, it makes life sooo much easier. Made myself a small kit to fit all the drive-in seals i usually service. BEST part, i didn't even bother with the wood lathe, i just chucked the chunk of MDF on the pillar drill and used a grinder with a paint stripper wheel. The lip that catches the seal is made with a screw driver. Quick and dirty, time savers.
Great idea with the dowel pins. I've been using a designed set, but even the high end one (looking at you Starrett) end up losing that tit that holds the pin, especially on stuff like 3 mm pins. And yeah, hammering on that won't do squat to the machine, you reaaaly have to strike it to get it have an issue.
This is the exact situation where i am currently at with my 1974 VW bus. Engine rebuilt ready to be put in, needs new cables and wires run as well. Great video, helps tremendously. The test drive around the block is great inspiration. Thank you!
Hey Mustie1, another fantastic video!!! Just on installing the crankshaft oil seal, instead of whacking it with a hammer, you can make a cheap install tool by taking a piece of thick steel plate, drill holes in it (that match your flywheel bolt pattern), then just use something like the flywheel bolts (or longer bolts if necessary) to walk/squeeze the seal into place evenly. A couple of the lads I know use this method and swear by it...
I assembled a 78 engine in my 77, bought the same aftermarket EMPI? muffler yet couldn't fit my good heaterbox's so had to purchase a new (like the old.) round muffler, clamp and y connector; this system was installed in later 1977's that were used with catalitic converters in some states. mine originally from Omaha. Looks like someone tried to use older heaterbox's. Looks good, fun to watch you assemble one!
Too bad you weren't up to filming more of the heating stuff. I have the exact same year of bus. Working on the heat. Lots to learn. Enjoyed what you did film. Thanks
That clutch cable noise of being pulled out of the tube is a sound you never forget, as much as you want to. The "kit" you used to get, was a cable. The VW dealership you bought the cable from made you think you were damn lucky that they would even wait on you. Oh the memories of the 70's. That is why I will never, ever buy a newish VW.
Had the same experience in the 70's with VW dealers when I had my Bugs but then, most dealers have the same attitude. I know, I worked for GM dealerships in the parts dept for 35 yrs. Not all parts guys are created equal. Worst was buying the hose that went from the spare to the wsw. in 1977 it cost me $35.00 but then, it only cost $8.00 to fill the gas tank from empty.
My shop teacher used to make us whack a crankshaft on a counterweight with a four pound mallet. He said if we could break the crank doing that on the bench then the crank would surely take a dump on some random lonely stretch of highway at 2 in the morning.
Hi Brenden! When I had the kids in the car when they were little, every time one of them saw a veedub of some sort, one of them would punch the other in the arm & say - "Punch Buggy!". Then of course, another kid would say - " Ow Daad he just hit me!"....Lol bloody kids who'd ever have them!
Nice really good conformandy and capitchulating adjustment for what you had and now what a pearl nice shinney one at that thanks for that the ride Mustie!¡!!😀😀😀👍👍👍
Sooty you had to deal with those poorly made exhausts and heater boxes. You would think they would have gotten the specs right after 38+ years. Nice work and bet the customer is going to be very happy with it knowing you did it!
@@mustie1 My brother had to remove a pilot bearing on a 302, a transmission guy told him a trick. Fill the pilot bearing with grease then find a socket that bearly fits in tje bearing, put a extension on it, get it slightly inside the bearing and then hit it with a hammer. The pressure from the socket moving in pushes the bearing out. Second try it worked !
Nice build Mustie, I'm located in the Netherlands and there are shops here totally specialist in vw Beatles and busses I see you gave got not so good aftermarket exhaust half a inch off? That's horrible stuff. Again nice build
I've seen on Corvairs where you can get the pilot bearing out using bread. You put bread in there and hammer it and it forces the bearing out. I don't advise eating the bread after, unless you need a little lube in your diet :-) .
Dear Mustie, thank you so much for the vids again, I always look forward to your vids. A handy way to remove the spigot shaft flywheel bearing, is to fill the bearing and the space it occupies with grease, as much as you can, then insert a steel shaft that is a nice snug fit in the bearing, then hit the shaft until the bearing pops out. This method will shift the tightest bearing or bush, I used to use it all the time when I was mechanicking ( please excuse, I`m not even sure if mechanicking is a word) Kind regards, Torchy
That part when you said “ it’s not gonna hurt it. It’s not gonna bend the crankshaft...” reminded me of the part where Jim Breuer in the movie Half Baked gets fired and he says “don’t worry. I’m not gonna do what everybody thinks I’m gonna do...” Had the same kind of tone. Lmao. Another great video
when coils in relays go bad they don't have enough strength to initially pull the relay armature in, but if it wants to be pulled in, and you push it in, it will stay. If this is true in your case, you need a new relay, or coil for that relay.........Good work, Mustie !!!!!!
also quick tip on metal drill bits. keep a vaseline container handy to dip the bit in as needed. extends the life of bit. also makes a tad cleaner hole
Just replaced the clutch on my 78 Westy and experienced what sounds just like that knocking you had with the flywheel pins I’m gonna check it out tommorow I already pulled the engine back out and everything seems fine hopefully it’s that
i use to install oil seals. i would use pvc pipe & turn a mallet sideways & tap it in like that. also i would grease the rubber part of seal for longevity
you can use wood between your seals and bearings by the way lol not only is it flat but its not metal on metal wood is softer so the wood will deform before anything else
I usually just thread an appropriately sized tap in all the way, then keep spinning to push the bushing out like a screw jack. works great for really stubborn hollow dowels in blind holes, too.
Tried that. Tried wet paper pulp. No Bueno. Returned to the slide hammer and after several days (ok, maybe 30 minutes) it finally came out. I guess some are more difficult than others.
Mustie1 you have just about changed my mind about VW little air cool engines. I had little respect for them as they seemed so tiny and delicate also coming in at the end of the muscle car era the power output was almost laughable. this was further reinforced when several yrs later i drove an Autostick. not the most gutless thing I ever drove but close. That "honor" goes to a 73 pinto wagon 2300 cc auto. During the test drive after getting it going, i refused to take it out of the neighborhood as it was 6sec "+" to get to 40mph. As a friend said there was sound but no motion to speak of. After that I no longer made fun of Karen when she got scared riding in my 69 Charger R/T w/440 Magnum 375hp under rated 430tq and sub 20 teen guy at the wheel.
nice to see they eventually moved away from the "gland nut" and dowel pin setup lol. Had one of those come loose on me once, not a fun experience. Junked everything crank related when it came loose lol.
actually, my friend had a bus like this. It was still fuel injected. We got it running by using a conductive paint pen to fix the wear on the mass airflow sensor, it ran good that way for a couple years. He had the bus with fuel injection and a type 3 with fuel injection. I think the reason they still worked is because it appeared the have been left alone all the years and not messed with.
when ever knocking in a seal with a spring you have a chance of dislodging it. fill the spring side with grease and it will never happen. just a mechanics tip.
Petroleum jelly instead which completely melts at just over 100 degrees F. Some greases have very high melting temperatures and may never melt at normal oil temperatures. Engines assembled with grease on the parts can actually end up with oil passage clogs.
Hookemups use a shout the same size or feeling ID of the bearing and pack for bearing with great drive the shaft into the bearing and they will remove it that will remove it I don't trip when you don't have anything else to use
@@scdevon Hi mate! Hey that's a great thought using the low melting point 'vasso' that can melt away after the engine has been running! A gold nuggett thank you!
..........this guy is so good at what he does, he could work on my car anytime..........but for the life of me and as a guy myself I could never figure out why some men wear baseball caps indoors???!! :)
I use a big 56mm (I think that's the size) socket on those rear main seals, being able to hit it in the middle of the socket top makes them go in nice and central.
Hi Mustie 1, I was kind of wandering what was happening about the saga of the old VW Westfalia van. Here in my country Guatemala is almost rare to see a VW bettle or a VW van not to mention a single cab or a double cab; back in the '60s I Recall hearing a jingle over the radio about the VWs cars that says : won't pass a minute without seeing a VW pass, on that time there was a countless VWs. Nice to see You wrenching, fixing and put them in good shape, those lovely and unforgettable VWs .Greetings. P.D. Hope You get over your back pain soon.
An easy way to remove the pilot bearing it to fill the whole bearing area with grease then with rod of the same size as the bearing hole tap the rod in and the hydraulic pushes the bearing out.
Sorry if I commented on this prior, but please take care of your spine. I've undergone nineteen spinal surgeries. My spinal x-rays makes me look like a titanium robot. I have had three surgeries on my cervical spine, two were fusions, and my entire lumbar spine is fused as well. Many other surgeries were for disc repair, scare tissue and spinal stimulator etc.. Again, please understand how bad it can get if your don't respect your body. I'm pretty much forced to use a power chair all the time now.
Mustie1 original: It's safe...hahaha.... it's safe as far as an aircooled Volkswagen is concerned...." Speaking out of my heart (and head especially!). By the way: In my opinion this engine sounds very good...hmm...as far as an aircooled Volkswagen engine...! LOL ;-) ;-) Last but not least: It was very good (also important) that you listened to your body/back at least. Get well!
Yeah 2jeffs, there was a particular type of 'karate chop' I had to apply to the original little chrome hubcaps on my '72 XA falcon, to get them to clip on & not bounce off the stock 5 & a half inch rims! If I got it right it was ok. If I got it wrong the hubcap fell on the ground & I hurt my hand!
I have always shaved a bar of soap filled old pilot bearing took a round piece of steel rod that fits inside old bearing repack soap pound soap repeat till bearing comes out I learned 50 years ago n have showed several people that way
Veedubs don't make much power until they are fitted with dual carbs dell ortos or webers. Top tip get Ferodo brand brake shoes/pads. Other brands are half as good. It could save your life and the good news is they cost pretty much the same as the competitors rubbish!
The ill fitting exhaust parts takes me back many years when I installed new mufflers on my beetles. It was always a struggle to force the muffler tube flanges onto the engine studs. It still seems strange why they never fit since they must have been fabricated on a jig.
Yeah Don, I can't understand it either. I mean, an inch out of alignment? Geez they must be some fancy jigs they use to weld up exhaust systems - not! Despite this, mustie got it sounding & running pretty well in the end. I knew he would!
About replacing cables, connect new one to old one with heat shrink tube, and while pullig out old, you will pull in new one :) Works in some cases (eg. Skoda 105/120 and Rapid, that rear engined ofc.). I see that preload tube is made in Poland, great to know that some products are exported to USA from my country :)
Yeah, I saw that later (few seconds later to be correct) but it might help in some cases. Skoda used straight wires, I bought some from bicycle shop and replaced this way.
This guy is unreal! I cant get enough of his video's... Thank You Mustie...
Man, I wish I had the facilities, tools and indoor space to work on my vw bus, especially during this quarantine period!
I swear these videos make beer taste better....
The first car I drove with my grandpa, as a 12 year old. And also the first car I ever was allowed to repair. I took out the carburetor and cleaned it, with no supervision. Just some brief explanations from the grown ups. Their trust made me feel like superman. And I have rarely been afraid to take on anything mechanical since.
There is a bit of a learning curve to installing one of these bus engines. The technique I have found that works is to use two floor jacks, one for the trans and one the engine. Get the engine and trans mated before you try and bring the rear engine support up to its resting position.Get the upper two trans bolts through the body and supporting the engine before you secure the rear mount) The flexible tube that the clutch cable runs through is called a "boden or bowden tube" (boden in German is ground or floor). In any case the tube allows for some rocking of the engine without tugging the clutch cable. Tip: many "bugs" that show clutch chattering can be fixed by installing washers so as there is more of a loop in the boden tube (you will be lucky if this works as there are so many reasons for a VW clutch to chatter).
In 1968 my Dad taught me the hydraulic method of removing pilot bearings/bushings: Fill the cavity with wheel bearing grease, find a dowel about the same outside diameter as the inside diameter as the bushing/bearing. Use tape to adjust the outside diameter of the dowel to be about 0.001 or so bigger than the inside diameter of the bushing/bearing. Take a hammer and pound dowel into the center of the bushing/bearing. You will then observe the non-compressible physics of a fluid (essentially) and the bushing/bearing will be forced out.
"We do it right because we do it twice!" 17:17 Yea. That's my motto too! LOL
Another great project in the books. Thanks, Mustie.
So glad that I ran across your channel. I like your style, focus and expertise. You're a pleasant person as well. Thanks for educating us.
A good tool for removing those is exactly that bolt, with a modification. Slice it down the middle, aaaalll the way up, then, once you've placed it inside, use a nail to split the two sides apart so they catch the lip of the bearing. Works great.
Use an MDF slug (glue multiple sheets together) to punch those in, it makes life sooo much easier. Made myself a small kit to fit all the drive-in seals i usually service. BEST part, i didn't even bother with the wood lathe, i just chucked the chunk of MDF on the pillar drill and used a grinder with a paint stripper wheel.
The lip that catches the seal is made with a screw driver. Quick and dirty, time savers.
Great idea with the dowel pins. I've been using a designed set, but even the high end one (looking at you Starrett) end up losing that tit that holds the pin, especially on stuff like 3 mm pins.
And yeah, hammering on that won't do squat to the machine, you reaaaly have to strike it to get it have an issue.
This is the exact situation where i am currently at with my 1974 VW bus. Engine rebuilt ready to be put in, needs new cables and wires run as well. Great video, helps tremendously. The test drive around the block is great inspiration. Thank you!
Hey Mustie1, another fantastic video!!!
Just on installing the crankshaft oil seal, instead of whacking it with a hammer, you can make a cheap install tool by taking a piece of thick steel plate, drill holes in it (that match your flywheel bolt pattern), then just use something like the flywheel bolts (or longer bolts if necessary) to walk/squeeze the seal into place evenly. A couple of the lads I know use this method and swear by it...
I assembled a 78 engine in my 77, bought the same aftermarket EMPI? muffler yet couldn't fit my good heaterbox's so had to purchase a new (like the old.) round muffler, clamp and y connector; this system was installed in later 1977's that were used with catalitic converters in some states. mine originally from Omaha. Looks like someone tried to use older heaterbox's. Looks good, fun to watch you assemble one!
Awesome work men!
I would like to see an old porche engine instaled on one of those vw.
I had one of just like this one mine was ab1979. I miss it so much
I saved this video till Sunday morning. Watching with a cup of coffee is just the best.Thank you for your efforts.
funny, im having a coffee reading your comment, it works both ways
Too bad you weren't up to filming more of the heating stuff. I have the exact same year of bus. Working on the heat. Lots to learn. Enjoyed what you did film. Thanks
That clutch cable noise of being pulled out of the tube is a sound you never forget, as much as you want to. The "kit" you used to get, was a cable. The VW dealership you bought the cable from made you think you were damn lucky that they would even wait on you. Oh the memories of the 70's. That is why I will never, ever buy a newish VW.
Had the same experience in the 70's with VW dealers when I had my Bugs but then, most dealers have the same attitude. I know, I worked for GM dealerships in the parts dept for 35 yrs. Not all parts guys are created equal. Worst was buying the hose that went from the spare to the wsw. in 1977 it cost me $35.00 but then, it only cost $8.00 to fill the gas tank from empty.
A lot of knowledge, effort and work. Oh yea, a lot of patience! LOL!
My shop teacher used to make us whack a crankshaft on a counterweight with a four pound mallet. He said if we could break the crank doing that on the bench then the crank would surely take a dump on some random lonely stretch of highway at 2 in the morning.
LOL!
yes- just had a flashback to automotive course I took in college
Being a Jersiete, I know that if i saw a Volkswagen bus while cruising down the road, i'd remain cock-eyed for at least a couple eyes.
Hi Brenden! When I had the kids in the car when they were little, every time one of them saw a veedub of some sort, one of them would punch the other in the arm & say - "Punch Buggy!". Then of course, another kid would say - " Ow Daad he just hit me!"....Lol bloody kids who'd ever have them!
"You're not too stable over there." Mustie, you are not the first person to tell me that.
you and me both
Nice really good conformandy and capitchulating adjustment for what you had and now what a pearl nice shinney one at that thanks for that the ride Mustie!¡!!😀😀😀👍👍👍
like a 6" section of 2x4 would be beautiful for getting the seal in, too
" Hold on the best you can , alright ? " love it
Sooty you had to deal with those poorly made exhausts and heater boxes. You would think they would have gotten the specs right after 38+ years. Nice work and bet the customer is going to be very happy with it knowing you did it!
Flexible,clutch tube also prevents clutch “chatter”
Hot damn I was needing my Mustie fix
Glad to see you back at the bus, just yesterday I was wondering if I had missed an episode.
nah but lost some footage
@@mustie1 My brother had to remove a pilot bearing on a 302, a transmission guy told him a trick. Fill the pilot bearing with grease then find a socket that bearly fits in tje bearing, put a extension on it, get it slightly inside the bearing and then hit it with a hammer. The pressure from the socket moving in pushes the bearing out. Second try it worked !
Fast forward to 6 years later after this video was made, and they now (mercifully) make the proper fuel tank again for fuel injected cars. SWEET!
As you're tapping, you will hear a tone change and that tells you the bearing is seated
yep its like tapping in Wheel bearings the old four parts
Nice build Mustie, I'm located in the Netherlands and there are shops here totally specialist in vw Beatles and busses I see you gave got not so good aftermarket exhaust half a inch off? That's horrible stuff.
Again nice build
nice to see you back
I so wish I'd been able to keep mine.... 1977 2.0 automatic 8 seat microbus!
Makes me appreciate my "advanced" water cooled Vanagon (Subaru powered) all that much more, but I had a '66 Beetle for a time. Kinda miss it...
I've seen on Corvairs where you can get the pilot bearing out using bread. You put bread in there and hammer it and it forces the bearing out. I don't advise eating the bread after, unless you need a little lube in your diet :-) .
That tank strap idea was a great easy fix.......kind of like USA Farnicastaffs
Dear Mustie, thank you so much for the vids again, I always look forward to your vids. A handy way to remove the spigot shaft flywheel bearing, is to fill the bearing and the space it occupies with grease, as much as you can, then insert a steel shaft that is a nice snug fit in the bearing, then hit the shaft until the bearing pops out. This method will shift the tightest bearing or bush, I used to use it all the time when I was mechanicking ( please excuse, I`m not even sure if mechanicking is a word) Kind regards, Torchy
That part when you said “ it’s not gonna hurt it. It’s not gonna bend the crankshaft...” reminded me of the part where Jim Breuer in the movie Half Baked gets fired and he says “don’t worry. I’m not gonna do what everybody thinks I’m gonna do...” Had the same kind of tone. Lmao. Another great video
Looks good, sounds good, nice job. Thanks for the video.
Hey man mustie don't let the jackasses with bad comments get you down man run a good clean show thanks for the entertainment man
when coils in relays go bad they don't have enough strength to initially pull the relay armature in, but if it wants to be pulled in, and you push it in, it will stay. If this is true in your case, you need a new relay, or coil for that relay.........Good work, Mustie !!!!!!
Beautiful country out there on your test drive!
also quick tip on metal drill bits. keep a vaseline container handy to dip the bit in as needed. extends the life of bit. also makes a tad cleaner hole
What a mine field! How many things can go wrong? Congratulations on winning the battle.
murphys law
Just replaced the clutch on my 78 Westy and experienced what sounds just like that knocking you had with the flywheel pins I’m gonna check it out tommorow I already pulled the engine back out and everything seems fine hopefully it’s that
i use to install oil seals. i would use pvc pipe & turn a mallet sideways & tap it in like that. also i would grease the rubber part of seal for longevity
That was a lot of work...nice
wish i had known what you know when i was changing the clutch cable on my 68 westy. i invented 3 new curses
Another very informative, satisfying video, thanks so much.
Eh? I saw a lot of methods that are unacceptable from an engineering point of view, not impressed.
Use a flat piece of wood to push (hammer) in the rear flywheel seal. ;)
And a few oil around its outer lip helps that the seal slips easier in.
"Drove my VW bus... All the way to Woodstock. Had to hitchhike home." Hippies.
All I need is Woodstock....❤️
you can use wood between your seals and bearings by the way lol not only is it flat but its not metal on metal wood is softer so the wood will deform before anything else
I always use the hydraulic method for removing pilot bearing/bushings. Your method sure is a lot cleaner without the axle grease.
I usually just thread an appropriately sized tap in all the way, then keep spinning to push the bushing out like a screw jack. works great for really stubborn hollow dowels in blind holes, too.
Such a beautiful bus!!! I don't even own a VW but I love your videos.
We used to take the pilot out by filling it with grease, putting a shaft into it and one quick shot of a hammer and the grease pushes out the bearing.
That's a pretty cool trick!
Tried that. Tried wet paper pulp. No Bueno. Returned to the slide hammer and after several days (ok, maybe 30 minutes) it finally came out. I guess some are more difficult than others.
pilot abuse? xddd
thats right
Grease is always the way for stubborn bushings not as good with a bearing style pilot .
You can put bearings in the freezer for half an hour, they will shrink a little and go in a lot easier.
Thank you for the update. I am still looking for a VW for my location.
Awesome vid I love the longer videos
though I'm commenting now on this past video 👍I've enjoyed the varied other numerous builds you have completed or will eventually complete blessings
Mustie1 you have just about changed my mind about VW little air cool engines. I had little respect for them as they seemed so tiny and delicate also coming in at the end of the muscle car era the power output was almost laughable.
this was further reinforced when several yrs later i drove an Autostick. not the most gutless thing I ever drove but close. That "honor" goes to a 73 pinto wagon 2300 cc auto. During the test drive after getting it going,
i refused to take it out of the neighborhood as it was 6sec "+" to get to 40mph. As a friend said there was sound but no motion to speak of. After that I no longer made fun of Karen when she got scared riding in my 69 Charger R/T w/440 Magnum 375hp under rated 430tq and sub 20 teen guy at the wheel.
I love New Hampshire’s motto “Live free or die” 😀
Paul that would be the whole country's motto
mrromantimothy 🤣
25:00 Kinda interesting how when the band saw was turned on, the camera was shaking. Tells you how powerful it is.
Amazing! Nice work, you have the necessary patience for working on an air cooled projects!
Great work around. Lesson One: Only buy Made In Germany Parts that are stock with/for the VW you are working on.
I had fun sort of working with you! --great video and great dialogue . I restored my 78 datsun p.u. and it looks new!
Whenever I intall a flywheel seal I use a tiny bit of silicone and it slides right in. Done hundreds that way never leaked. 8-)
Bought same model and same color new in Monterey CA. Good vehicle. Wish I still had it. Traded it for new Aerostar.Dumb.
Another great video! Love the longer ones like this mustie
nice to see they eventually moved away from the "gland nut" and dowel pin setup lol. Had one of those come loose on me once, not a fun experience. Junked everything crank related when it came loose lol.
actually, my friend had a bus like this. It was still fuel injected. We got it running by using a conductive paint pen to fix the wear on the mass airflow sensor, it ran good that way for a couple years. He had the bus with fuel injection and a type 3 with fuel injection. I think the reason they still worked is because it appeared the have been left alone all the years and not messed with.
We do it right because we do it twice!" @ Yea. That's my motto too! LOL
when ever knocking in a seal with a spring you have a chance of dislodging it. fill the spring side with grease and it will never happen. just a mechanics tip.
Always use grease, seen many springs pop off. To each his own.
Petroleum jelly instead which completely melts at just over 100 degrees F. Some greases have very high melting temperatures and may never melt at normal oil temperatures. Engines assembled with grease on the parts can actually end up with oil passage clogs.
Hookemups use a shout the same size or feeling ID of the bearing and pack for bearing with great drive the shaft into the bearing and they will remove it that will remove it I don't trip when you don't have anything else to use
@@scdevon Hi mate! Hey that's a great thought using the low melting point 'vasso' that can melt away after the engine has been running! A gold nuggett thank you!
..........this guy is so good at what he does, he could work on my car anytime..........but for the life of me and as a guy myself I could never figure out why some men wear baseball caps indoors???!! :)
Use soft faced hammers tapping seals in and lube the outer edge and the inner lip with a bit of grease so it doesn’t drag and tear on the crank.
I use a big 56mm (I think that's the size) socket on those rear main seals, being able to hit it in the middle of the socket top makes them go in nice and central.
I've seen some folks put a tee fitting at the gas tank exit for FI return.
Always great entertainment...u have a gift
Sounds nice
Hi Mustie 1, I was kind of wandering what was happening about the saga of the old VW Westfalia van. Here in my country Guatemala is almost rare to see a VW bettle or a VW van not to mention a single cab or a double cab; back in the '60s I Recall hearing a jingle over the radio about the VWs cars that says : won't pass a minute without seeing a VW pass, on that time there was a countless VWs. Nice to see You wrenching, fixing and put them in good shape, those lovely and unforgettable VWs .Greetings.
P.D. Hope You get over your back pain soon.
all is well, thanks for watching
An easy way to remove the pilot bearing it to fill the whole bearing area with grease then with rod of the same size as the bearing hole tap the rod in and the hydraulic pushes the bearing out.
Sorry if I commented on this prior, but please take care of your spine. I've undergone nineteen spinal surgeries. My spinal x-rays makes me look like a titanium robot. I have had three surgeries on my cervical spine, two were fusions, and my entire lumbar spine is fused as well. Many other surgeries were for disc repair, scare tissue and spinal stimulator etc.. Again, please understand how bad it can get if your don't respect your body. I'm pretty much forced to use a power chair all the time now.
sucks when your back takes you out from turning 🔧s going on round 3 back surgery hopefully theses rods out give me some relief fingers crossed
Mustie1 original: It's safe...hahaha.... it's safe as far as an aircooled Volkswagen is concerned...."
Speaking out of my heart (and head especially!).
By the way: In my opinion this engine sounds very good...hmm...as far as an aircooled Volkswagen engine...! LOL ;-) ;-)
Last but not least: It was very good (also important) that you listened to your body/back at least. Get well!
great Bus Mustie.
Excellent Video
OMG!!! YOUR GOING TO BEND THE MUFFLER BEARINGS TAPPING THOSE DOWEL PINS INTO THE FLYWHEEL!!!
mou're
Those ring gears are totally different and were balanced.
Trying to get s seal started into a bore - we called that the hub cap effect.
right, but at least you can cick a hub cap
2jeffs1 8)
Yeah 2jeffs, there was a particular type of 'karate chop' I had to apply to the original little chrome hubcaps on my '72 XA falcon, to get them to clip on & not bounce off the stock 5 & a half inch rims! If I got it right it was ok. If I got it wrong the hubcap fell on the ground & I hurt my hand!
I have always shaved a bar of soap filled old pilot bearing took a round piece of steel rod that fits inside old bearing repack soap pound soap repeat till bearing comes out I learned 50 years ago n have showed several people that way
Thank you for uploading such a very informative video. Brilliant to watch. PC 19.05.2017. UK. Very well filmed.
I was a waiting for the HOLY BLEEPING BLEEPITY BLEEP when you smashed your hand.
very interesting - Sir
I use Vasoline...for seals...automotive.
Veedubs don't make much power until they are fitted with dual carbs dell ortos or webers.
Top tip get Ferodo brand brake shoes/pads. Other brands are half as good. It could save your life and the good news is they cost pretty much the same as the competitors rubbish!
Put bearing or race in freezer for couple hours, makes going in so much easier.
The ill fitting exhaust parts takes me back many years when I installed new mufflers on my beetles. It was always a struggle to force the muffler tube flanges onto the engine studs. It still seems strange why they never fit since they must have been fabricated on a jig.
Yeah Don, I can't understand it either. I mean, an inch out of alignment? Geez they must be some fancy jigs they use to weld up exhaust systems - not!
Despite this, mustie got it sounding & running pretty well in the end. I knew he would!
back on the road ,
Nice work Mustie.
I like the video my friend good too see you.
About replacing cables, connect new one to old one with heat shrink tube, and while pullig out old, you will pull in new one :) Works in some cases (eg. Skoda 105/120 and Rapid, that rear engined ofc.). I see that preload tube is made in Poland, great to know that some products are exported to USA from my country :)
cant do that , they have hooks on the end, and dont want to cut it off as the old cable becomes the spare
Yeah, I saw that later (few seconds later to be correct) but it might help in some cases. Skoda used straight wires, I bought some from bicycle shop and replaced this way.
Yip, i use a bike brake cable to pull wires through e-bike frames, would also work for this.