Did we Make this House TOO Air TIGHT??
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- Did we make this house TOO AIR TIGHT?? I may have found the ultimate vapor barrier and air control system on the market! I am always looking to new ways to improve and provide a better system for my clients and while looking for that perfect system, rockwool and SIGA Majrex kept coming up. Because we are in a cold climate we need a vapor barrier on the interior side of our insulated wall. The SIGA Majrex is a smart vapor barrier and I believe one of the only like it on the market. It allows for drying from the inside of the wall cavity out but also doesn't allow vapor to permeate into the wall cavity.
Have you ever used SIGA Majrex? It installs quite easily and I believe thanks to the way we frame our post frame homes, the Majrex will perform exceptionally. If you are curious about electrical and plumbing...stay tuned and subscribe for more information and how to on this barndominium we are building.
This Barndo as well as other RR Building Plans are available here.
rrplans.bigcar...
Milwaukee Stapler
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Siga Majrex
www.siga.swiss...
![[UNCUT] “บอสณวัฒน์” ลากไส้!! ใครหนุนหลัง "แม่ตั๊ก ป๋าเบียร์" I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 30 ก.ย. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QlD7mU2KKRk/mqdefault.jpg)
I hope you will do a blower door test when you are done and show the results. I think it will be extremely informative as to the efficiency of the home. Keep up the great work!
Yes, blower door test!!! I want to compare with a spray foam insulated house.
I am fully impressed! It’s just a complete th-cam.com/users/postUgkxGqOCINHE0Z0E5gxzSdNi9NWGugRY5Hm2 plan with the best resources and step by step instructions . These shed plans are so satisfying as if the sheds build themselves on their own. Worthy work Ryan!
Hi Kyle, My grandpa built furniture. My dad was a machinist. I code. Dont apologize for being accurate or using elegant design. It's not OCD. It's craftsmanship. Something our country no longer promotes with the current culture. It is great that you promote doing things right and not half-a.. Greg is lucky to have a mentor and not just a boss.
Well said. I've been watching this channel for a long time and I'm still addicted. Wish I knew someone around me that was into doing this kind of work. I've done construction on and off over the years but literally no one gives a shit anymore. I remember when I was younger getting into an argument with my uncle because we were remodeling a house and he got sick of spackling in the attic and started caulking the corners. I honestly don't understand how people can do anything in life and do it half assed. Idc if I was working at a Burger King I'd still do the best that I could.
@@jonathangaliano2617 hello
Truth! Kyle is a dying breed! LOVE the passion, craftsmanship & attention to detail.
How can I get the award
Well said that’s why I subbed
Being a homeowner of a house built as cheaply as possible. I can truly appreciate what Kyle and Greg do as they build these things. I’m looking at complete gut when I go to remodel someone else’s “just get it done” attitude
Man the contractor that built my parents place was so shit about air sealing that there is no controlling the dust. The house is as tight as a screen door, you can dust and two days later it looks like you haven't dusted in months. In the summer the 5 ton A/C on the main put of the house never shuts off, and the Humidity is crazy. I installed a ton and a half window unit in the Great Room just to suck the Humidity out and help make the house feel better in the Summer months.
I've been fighting this kind of battle with my house that was built in the 40's. I have been chipping away at bad air sealing and insulation
You pay for what you get. If you have higher building standards then earn more money to build a custom home and stop complaining
@@joseph1541 It was a 500k home when built in 2002. The contractor stole about 5 mil from 11 different builds an ran to Mexico. Idiot blow it all and got caught at a check point trying to come back in. Spent 10 years in jail. My parents were one of 3 out of the 11 that actually had something "Finished". We had to spend another 100k to fix his F'ups.
This guy came very highly recommend by people far richer than us. So more money =/= better build quality.
@johnbryant There is nowhere to stop with a cheap build. The foundation is probably substandard.
it's a slippery slope with diminishing returns. at some point it becomes chasing pennies with dollars while stuffing corporate pockets.
Your videos are must see for me. Well done Kyle. The addition of a camera man really helps with the visual flow of the video. Can't wait until the next video in this build.
Thanks Ty
@@RRBuildings are you going to have a cameraman for the videos from here on out? Or just the series?
I have really no use for this information personally and yet I can't not spend forty minutes of my Saturday morning watching it. Fascinating stuff and it's always a pleasure to see real craftsmen who maintain high standards in their work.
Lol thank you
I agree, it reminds me of this old house. I'm glued to the channel.
That is because it is far excitinger than watching 22 guys fighting over a lump of pigskin.
Looks like a pretty slick VB system. If they made a roll of the Majrex specifically for the course that contacts the floor with pre-applied tape on the bottom edge, it would save a lot of time, and perhaps give a better seal at the floor/wall junction. Especially if the insulation used doesn't have enough body to push against to get the tape to seal properly? Your attention to detail is outstanding!
Can you imagine the cost to his productivity to make all these invaluable videos? Blows my mind. I am not a builder and don't ever plan on constructing my own building. But I value the thinking and talent revealed on each build. I marvel at the details and finished product. Just incredible.
I appreciate that and hope that long after I am done building these videos can help others
My guess it’s not done for free. It’s a paid advertisement especially if a CEO is there.
@@RRBuildingsI’m assuming that’s offset to a decent degree by the money that your videos generate. I doubt you’re doing it at a big loss
I wish people had half the amount of pride in their work work that you do. A friend had a 700k semi custom home built. He went to check on the progress over lunch and found that the siding crew ran out of house wrap and were in the process of applying siding anyway.
That’s sad
I would definitely want my property's built out by someone as meticulous as you. Even if it took twice as long, it'd be worth the hard work done properly.
I think the words he used were “anal retentive”.
Spencer Lewis of Insider Carpentry has a Short about the necessity of wearing good knee pads. He recommends “Pro Knee”. Pricey but very comfortable. You are not doing your knees any favors on that concrete surface.
Heat the house with a candle and cool it with an ice cube. Beautiful workmanship as always.
Gotta move out to Illinois and start working for this man cause his knowledge on this stuff is just insane. Doing what seems to be about half of the entire project yourself is how you really make money.
what a waste of money. Fentrim makes sense around windows, thats it. both the swiss and germans use vapor barrier glue to connect with concrete or bricks. because its just better in every way. And this Majrex comes deliberately in tiny dimensions, so people buy more of the expensive tape to seal it. Siga tapes are good, if not the best. just use your head people.
Since I am no longer physically able to build a house like I was in 1989, 90, 92 (one piece at a time), I will have to pay out of pocket for everything (INCLUDING MY HELICOPTER HOVERING). My question is: what do you think doing the rock-wool and vapor barrier like you have done on this build, and cost-comparing it to a 3" closed cell foaming the exterior walls and roof would be. 30-70? 40-60? etc. on my next build. Thanks.
Good question. To do this yourself would be time consuming and labor intensive. If you paid someone to do it, most wouldn't have much experience with it, if any, and the labor cost in addition to the materials, would likely be somewhere close to the cost of 2" of closed cell spray foam, maybe not 3", but would be curious to see as well. Paying someone to do the spray foam and be done with it while I'm working on other things, is likely the way I will go. As with anything, the finished quality of a particular product is very dependent on the quality of it's installation.
Question: Now that I've seen these two videos on insulation, I really like both the Rockwool and the Majrex products. I also really like Structural Insulated Panels (SIP) as well but they are more expensive. I'm not sure what the SIP's cost (because you can order them pre cut or full sheets) but I'm sure that they are more expensive. Watching this video really makes me re consider using SIP's and using the Rockwool and Majrex system instead due to cost and it doesn't seem like the R value is much different. I'm sure the R value is less using this system verses the SIP's but not by much. What's your thoughts on this?
Finally you're getting into proper air and mousture control stuff ;)
Informative and inspiring as usual, can’t wait to start our build. Still waiting on plans to build from but we are getting closer. Thanks for all you do Kyle, you to Greg :)!
Excellent video! While I'm convinced Siga products are superior, what made you decide the go with your air control layer on the inside of the perimeter wall versus your outside? I'm also a big fan of the rockwall products; how would this approach have competed in price comparison with 2" closed cell foam? Keep the content coming! :)
the thing is you can use the Yellow Siga tape which is meant for indoors and the rissan and wigluv are meant for outside, since the Rissan and Wigluv are more elastic it ressist water which is when you use paper on the roof, thats what we use in germany
Not fully true.. Rissan and Sicrall is both made for inside use. Sicrall is meant for flat surface like majrex overlap and Rissan is for corners and little details. I recommend the siga website for more infos
You introducing this new system of building is amazing and I hope you get the recognition deserved
Its "new" to the channel, but its been around in Europe for quite a few years
@@Jack-OfAll-Trades That's everything in building science. In Europe for ten years and USA is way behind. Give everyone in the USA credit where it's due for making it visible here. Our suppliers are 20 years behind the curve and it's impossible to get them to catch up. This creates pressure on them to catch up.
@Luke Pighetti moisture management systems have been around here for a while. CertainTeed makes one that you can pick up at home depot
@@MrVodkaJohn that mindset is exactly why we're 10 years behind Europe for building materials. It makes no room for new technology
@Luke Pighetti Not sure what you are getting at. "new technology" this is old.
The same smart vapor barrier technology is available here.
I used certainteed as an example two fold. One being that the owner Saint gobain is the largest building material manufacturer in the world. Their isover and more important smart vapor barrier vario extra is at the forefront in Europe.
Secondly that the version made for America CertainTeed membrane is available at homedepot. It doesn't get much more widely available than a home center.
Hey Kyle, do you know if the double sided tape+ majrex combo is tough enough to withstand a dense pack cellulose application? Could I use it in place of something like Insulweb and get a better result?
I did some anecdotal testing when I build my shop. The primer for wood at concrete makes that tape stick so much better. In your application the flooring will hold it down but in a critical outside application is recommend the primer.
how about the eletrical and plumbing?They gonna cut everything
my knees are hurting just watching this
If I could only get you to build mine I would feel like I hit the lottery.. You are particular like I was until my injury. Í can't find anyone to do this level of work.
This series is definitely an eye opener. I am looking at building a post frame home within the very near future. All these above and beyond items going into this home is making my list of what to look for and implement in my build.
If your building is tight install a air to air heat exchanger. That way the air inside stays fresh and requires little extra heat.
but with energy costs..its the gift that never stops and maintenance too
I'm not sure if you're planning on it but an air exchanger is a must have for extremely tight homes.
I think it was mentioned already, but yet CONTROLLED ventilation is critical when you build an airtight house. The good news is that you keep out unwanted air and bugs. Then you get a system that admittedly uses a little energy to bring in air from the outside and pre-condition and filter it, before you let it in. Generally you put the suction end in bathrooms, kitchen or other spaces with odors and then return the air to bedrooms and other spaces. The folks over at The Build show has done a bunch of episodes on the various bits of tech to do that. These customers are getting a house that will simply "feel" good all the time and not cold and drafty. Amazing how a little bit of attention and $$ spent on materials will probably save 50% or more on heat in cooling for decades to come compared to a house built to minimum standards. That little but of energy used for fresh air control is more than offset by heating and cooling efficiency
Would this be appropriate for a southern state house in a high humidity area?? As we know, installing a traditional vapor barrier on an interior wall can cause mildew growth when used in a high humidity area. Thanks 😊
What the hell was that at 12’. Never thought of leaving the end you’re cutting away from attached. Makes total sense 🤯. Thanks Kyle.
I feel like I need to retire sooner so I can hire this man to build my house. My OCD is pleased with all of this.
Wow, that Rockwool really does give you something to push against. 👏
I found this video so valuable. It will make a huge difference in my techniques as well as save me time and headaches! Thank you and I'd like to see more like this one!
No such thing as too tight! Just need to ventilate right!
Question: I'm getting ready to install insulation but have already wrapped the outside of my house with ice and water shield. I'm building a geodesic dome home which is mostly roof so I decided to use Ice and water shield to protect it rather than using anything else. If I use that Majrex wrap will I have any issues or should I not use it and just use the Rockwool? I live in zone 3 in western Washington state. Thanks.
@32:00 Wasn't expecting so much ASMR in this video Kyle! Love the content!
I would love to see a blower door test on the house, I imagine you don't get much tighter than that.
That’s what she said
Blower door test coming up?
That barrier layer makes my heart happy, how straight and neat it looks! 🙌🏻
What's the point of using double sided tape, so you don't use staples, when you will be puncturing the sissalation/wrap with the internal cladding. Plaster screws etc
Great to see the craftsmanship - it's almost nonexistent where I live. All houses are built as quickly and with as many corners cut as possible, and minimum code allows it to happen because there's almost nothing about efficiency or air management in it.
This is one of the biggest issues with my 20 year old home, the wind can practically blow through the walls and right around every door and window.
So using the Weather Logic as an air and moisture barrier on the outside, then using SIGA Majrex as an air and moisture barrier on the inside, does this not trap moisture in the wall? This might be more of a concern in a moisture rich environment, like in the SouthEast U.S.? Thanks Kyle, we definitely rely on your instruction & videos, and will be starting our post-frame buildings this fall.
Very Nice, but what percentage additional cost would this system add to the job?
Kyle, I really appreciate your attention to detail, plus your explanation is top notch! Keep it up!
There is no such thing as "TOO AIR TIGHT." If the structure is completely air tight, an economic infeasibility, it would be better than if it had 0.001% air leakage. When the building is tight then you provide controlled ventilation, ideally in most climates by using an HRV.
Flawless vapour barriers on the inside have many consideration of climate, air conditioning,, perms of the interior surfaces and perms of the exterior surfaces. I repaired a home a number of years ago with a flawless interior vapour barrier. ALL the wood, OSB, plywood,, in contact with the surface facing the outside was soaking wet and rotted. The carpeting and sub floor, the top of the joists, the bond, all rotted,, in a 17 year old house. Can you make a house too tight,, Yes, absolutely. My best air tight builds,,, cost thousands extra to tighten,, and then thousands for air to air heat exchangers and the needed electric bills running fans 24/7/365.
Don't ever forget,, humans breathe. And humans do NOT like breathing formaldehyde, hydrocarbon fumes,, or cooking or old farts.
Can a house be too tight,, YES.
Enjoy the longer format.
Your ability to articulate your points and your ability to teach/train on these videos is top notch.
Much appreciated!
Kyle - You seem to have mis-spoken when describing the physical properties of the Majrex sheeting. You said it is "rigid", but the material is obviously not rigid, but highly flexible as your working with it shows. Was your intended meaning that the Majrex sheeting is "inextensible" (i.e. not stretchy)?
Hi Kyle. We live in a cold climate, Alberta. We plan on building this summer. The wall assembly will be metal cladding, strapping, zip r6, 2x6 walls, rock wool r24, strapping and drywall. Should we use Siga Majrex taped all seams ceiling and walls between the insulation and drywall as well?
Reliance on adhesives makes me think it's not going to last. E.g. my '94 Chevy pickup was great until after about 25 years, then everything made of petroleum products -- adhesives, glues, plastics, rubber, etc started to fall apart. The metal parts were still in good shape but those things weren't.
I applaud that you are putting a vapor barrier in your barn construction. However, you need to ensure that no water can enter into your walls from the exterior through ANY crack, crevice, joint or hole. I have not watched your entire series and so you may have taken precautions to prevent this. A further caution is that if you have installed and exterior vapor barrier AND you are installing an interior vapor barrier, you probably are making a mistake. Problems can occur if any water finds its way into the inter of the wall cavities. Because you have created a space inside the walls that is completely sealed off, the water will not easily evaporate and mold will grow in your walls. This becomes a problem that can take tens of thousands of dollars to remedy.
I am a licensed GC in AZ as well as a civil engineer and I have over 30 years of construction experience. When it comes to creating weatherproof, high insulated spaces, I have learned to follow the commonsense rule. In this case, you need to ask yourself "What happens to any water that infiltrates the walls?" You may say confidently that you have taken precautions to prevent water penetration through the exterior walls, roof, window, door and HVAC/electrical penetrations. But keep this in mind, whatever protection you have installed has to last at least 50 years or more. So the question becomes, "If my exterior water protection breaks down 20 years from now and water gets into the wall cavities, will the water be able to evaporate quickly enough so that mold does not proliferate through the walls?"
Most new home exterior systems will shed water for several years even if they are installed incorrectly. Further, even some proposed water protection systems will break down over time even if they are installed correctly. Using 30 lb felt under a concrete tile roof will fail in AZ in 15 -20 years in many cases, and code allows this installation. The tile itself will not fail, but the underlayment will dry up and crack into pieces. So if any water gets under the tile, it will leak into the house. This could easily be avoided by installing either a modified bitumen torch-down roof under the tile or using something like high temperature rated Grace Water and Ice modified bitumen underlayment. Either of these systems will extend the life of the roof to well over 50 years. The point is, many established systems in construction, even new "cutting edge" systems, may meet code, but they may not last.
For your houses, make sure that if you that two redundant barriers to prevent water penetration for your roof, walls and basement. Use mechanical (flashing) protection as much as possible to shed water away from weak points and openings on the walls and roof. This will save you a world of problems later. In the houses I design, I am very hesitant to install any type of vapor barrier over the interior of the wall, even though code allows it in cold climates. I ALWAYS install several layers of protection over the exterior walls and roof. As a rule, it is never good to entrap any air space between to vapor barrier systems in a house because if water somehow gets into that space, mold will develop. In the houses I design I WANT air from the interior of the house to be able to get into the wall cavity because if water does somehow get in, I want the water to be able to evaporate. I WANT interior air to get into the walls (to a limited degree) because in high humidity climates, condensation can occur if the insulated space of the walls is encased in two vapor barriers. Now when I say this, I am NOT saying I want the warm interior air to directly contact the outer siding, stucco, etc., directly, because THAT will produce condensation. I am saying I want interior air to have to filter through the interior insulation and cool gradually BEFORE it hits the exterior siding.
When I design any weatherproofing or insulation system for a house, I always ask, "What happens if this first barrier of this system fails?" I then try to provide a second redundant layer of protection. In most of the systems you work with, this idea of redundant layers of protection are already in use. However, some of the new systems of making an house "air tight" don't gain that much energy efficiency, and they can create catastrophic failures later. This is true for both hot and cold climates. Using closed cell spray-in insulations incorrectly is one example of a system that can fail catastrophically in humid, wet climates.
I live in Portugal, no floor, wall, roof is level or straight, it's called old school craftsmanship.
They have a lot of wine 🍷 in Portugal, it practically grows on trees, and cheaper than water.
I tried to make everything good.
It looked terrible and out of place.
So I had a glass of wine before every job.
Good enough sometimes is too good.
If table uneven, it has character
Are you paid/sponsored by SIGA? There are many options for this type of advanced building solutions, maybe show some options 👍👍
50% of his time is spent to make it 95% perfect. is another 50% of his time worth the extra 5%? I don't think so. don't waste your time and money to get to 100% perfect on anything. 95% is good enough. within 5 years that extra 5% will be lost in building movement/settling.
I'd love to see your make-up air system. HRV, ERV & especially the stove hood. Interestingly, code requires make-up air to match the exhaust of the stove hood, yet nobody makes a product to meet that code. So it's ignored. But in your case, this house is so airtight, you may need some sort of active makeup air systems.
Are you going to do a cost breakdown for this build? My Wife and I are looking for what we want to do in building our forever home, and this is definitely on the list.
When I see Rissan, I see Nissan and think it has to be pronounced like the car.
How did you handle running electrical wires from the light switch to the ceiling light? I did the same system for air tightness on my ceiling using siga majrex strapped with 2x4s just as in your video, keeping all electrical in the conditioned space. However now I'm not sure how to get the electrical wire from the switch over the wall top plate and back under the majrex in order to run it to the ceiling light without puncturing the majrex? Did you make a notch in the top plate to run the wire? Or do you run from the top plate into the attic, then back through the majrex taping where the wire penetrates? Thanks!
Greg is lucky to be able to work with you. I would love to have a boss like you in the way you pay attention to detail and make the work more enjoyable verse rush rush let’s get this done. I’m sure that on occasions but not all the time.
13:25 Yes, we all just could use some hands, not at all about the work-buddy bromance...
I wonder why you are not using the yellow sicrall at all, it would usually be obvious choice for the straight seams inside. Also I wonder why I have never seen the runner here, it seems useful sometimes.
I thought Greg is filming.
You should be proud Kyle, you Inspire a lot of diy chanells, like Ambition Strikes + say they follow the way you do things, you always get a mention .
That’s amazing
@@RRBuildings I got a messsage supposedly from you guys saying I should text you as I have won a prize!! Is this genuine?
Crawling on your knees on concrete is unwise. You're slowly damaging the kneecap (patella) and the tendons supporting it. The damage is often incremental and unnoticed until it is too late to avoid.
Buy some knee pads.
So on the top you said the drywallers will have no problem with the fold... are they going to be running screws through all the SIGA on the top?? alot of details just to have screw run through it. Correct me if im wrong please.
Cool product but once you factor the material costs of Majrex and Rockwool plus expensive time consuming labor costs for install. I would bet spray foam installation would be competitive or cheaper in cost with same blower door test results.
I didn't catch if what was a going over top I'm assuming its going to be drywall very few construction workers that I talk to know that drywall is when glued to the framing is all the air berrier you need. If there are penetrations like outlets then the Majrex is worse than nothing because it probably cost a lot of money. If the wiring is going just under the drywall then is going to work but with all this extra time putting the insulation on the outside of the wall would have been a better idea and that gives you warm walls so there is no chance of mold within the walls. I'm not here to criticize the dudes workmanship I'm talking about the engineering.
Looks great for a northern application (Canada) with little AC use. Put that barrier on the exterior of your framing add your insulation outside of it and then apply your cladding it would work anywhere in the world.
It serves a different purpose than housewrap, etc. It's to keep air infiltration out of the walls while letting it dry. You could certainly do exterior insulation as well in warm or hot climates followed by a barrier to keep rain out of the walls.
Ever wonder why so many victorian and craftsman homes are still around? No modern insulating, poor water and air sealing. They were not efficient in terms of temperature regulation but because they were so bad at being air tight, any moisture that got in, would dry out from air movement.
Americans and their wooden oversized sheds 😂 tape and glue 😂 then wonder why it blew away ...🤔
i Really think that there is a better way, less labor intensive way, to get the same effect and air tightness. I think back years ago when I put up a house with the aluminum faced foam sheets and then taped the joints. We ended up with a house that turning on the stove ventilation would actually cause smoke to come out of the fireplace from that fan. And frankly when we had a group of guests over for a party during the winter months we had to open skylights to let the excess body heat out. I think this home that you constructed will need an air to air heat exchanger to limit odors.
Amazing Kyle.Better than 6 mil plastic vapor barrier.Thanks for sharing.
Having lived in houses in the south with no basements, I experienced very cold floors due to the concrete being exposed along the edges of the building. Even though it doesn't get extremely cold, it still gets cold enough to seep into the concrete slab floors. How do you make a thermal break at the outer edges of the concrete so as to eliminate that cold seeping into the concrete and thus seeping into the house?
I may be missing something but... You are showing that you are adhering the Siga tape to the concrete, but you do not show that you are exposing an adhesive edge of the tape to do so.
It is not going to hurt anything if the Centrum extends under your interior wood framing. I am a journeyman carpenter as well as licensed GC.
You're getting really good practice at wrapping x-mas presents!! It's looking really nice guys!!
it will be interesting to see the radon test results when you're finished.
If radon was a concern in their area a radon system would have been installed before the floor slab was poured
What pants are you wearing? They look like they’re have built in knee pads? Pretty awesome gear.
As for the title, I was thinking that when I watched the insulation install video. That place is extremely airtight
Dad always said, A job worth doing . . . is worth doing well. Still true to this day. I miss you Dad.
My question is how long does this tape stay stuck? At what point does it eventually come loose from the glue loosing adhesion?
This should be the legal minimum standard for home building in the US but we have lobbyists.
that sigma paper behind drywall will probably cause future mold issiues
If you're using mechanical ventilation, there's no such thing as "too airtight".
That's nice. Some how I lost your reply. Could you repeat the message?
Where’s your knee pads buddy?!?!🤣😂
Watched a house that was so air tite when they turned the range hood on it pulled the smoke from the fireplace back in the house.
I do not put any type of vapor barrier on the inside walls.
I am old school, in my opinion a house has to breath, if you add up the cost of all the sealing material, air to air handler to add fresh air vs how they used to do it. Plus you live in a sealed container. Then we will see studies later on how a super sealed house will cause illnesses
Etienne, French for Stephen. Or at least so said my high school French teacher.
its very awesome...the mirex tape and rissan give me major anxiety...its alot
With how the corner was taped would it not be easier to cut the bulk out and just tape down the corner? I could be talking nonsense just an idea😂
Dead Air is not good. Materials need to breathe....The gain is not worth the effort lost...
In the future I hope our homes are so tight that I can just walk around with an oxygen tank while in my house.
Just get an air exchanger add on for new furnaces, or get a regular one like Spa use that are in tons of homes now. In response to the title/thumbnail.
Definitely going to need a air circulation system.
How do I get the house wrap with a custom decal
Pretty sure you have to buy a whole pallet of it to get that option
Great video, Just curious but how much does the tape and barrier cost.
Kyle! How dare you say green wood doesn't play as nicely as white wood. Sooooo racist! Lol
Well I mean if you fart and it lingers for way too long and it do t air out then you know it’s too air tight!