Installing an internal wrap for Air Tightness and Vapor Control
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ค. 2024
- Efficiency Matrix demonstrates some key techniques and ideas for installing an internal fabric vapour retarding material called Smartvap(Proctor) inside a residential wall system in a temperate climate of Melbourne Australia.
Proctor Smartvap internal vapour retarder, can provide several significant benefits to your home:
1. Controls Moisture Levels: In cold or temperate climates throughout the world where there is a significant difference between indoor and outdoor temperatures, vapour barriers help prevent water vapour migration. It can help control moisture levels in the house, thereby keeping the indoor air quality healthier and preventing moisture damage to the structures of your home.
2. Combined with a heat recovery ventilation system, a vapour barrier can significantly improve indoor air quality and improve the efficiency and effectiveness of the heat recovery system itself.
3. Prevents Damage: By controlling moisture levels, a vapour retarding wrap can significantly reduce the risk of damage caused by dampness, such as mould, mildew growth, or decay in the home. This prevention can extend the lifespan of your building materials and reduce maintenance especially in extreme climates.
4. Energy Efficiency: It can enhance the effectiveness of insulation, providing you with improved energy efficiency. Keeping the insulation dry preserves its R-value (thermal resistance), thus helping save on energy costs.
5. Comfort: A well-placed vapour barrier can also improve the comfort of your home by helping to maintain consistent humidity levels.
It's important to note that the need for a vapour barrier, and where the vapour barrier exists in a wall or roof system can vary based on a region's climate, the type of construction, and local building codes. Improper placement can sometimes lead to trapping moisture in unintended places, so it's best to consult with a building performance consultant when you are considering building a home or retrofitting a product like this onto an existing home.
Dctech
dctech.com.au/
Efficiency Matrix
efficiencymatrix.com.au
00:00 Introduction
02:11 Product introduction
03:55 Window wrap
06:31 Double Sided Wrap
07:31 Horizontal wrap install
09:45 Internal Wall Gasket
11:26 Sealing to the Floor
12:34 Taping around windows
13:12 Vertical install
14:56 Ceiling wrap installation
16:27 Services Cavity Electrical and Plumbing
18:09 Protect corner junctions from Damage
18:55 Outro - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
These videos are vital to open this work up to a new generation of builders
Great clip guys, love the attention to details.
And I like the vertical installation too Mark.
But for the horizontal installation, I would recommend the top layer be applied first so as to prevent water from pooling in the overlap and the taped seem. (which we hope won't get there, but you never know....)
Building science isn't just about trying to control condensation and stopping water from getting in, but also giving water a preferred place to go if it does. Even if the manufacturer says otherwise.... question everything, and express your concerns, and we'll all keep learning and improving. 👍
Just to clarify: I'm not saying don't follow the manufacturers installation instructions, on the contrary. We need to follow their installation instructions more than ever. BUT manufacturers don't know EVERYTHING, and where some of us see an issue or come across a problem - then please please please contact said manufacturer to find a solution.
@@michaelcook9414 Might be a bit of confusion from the manufacturers installation instructions, as to the way you layer it would change depending on if the wrap is applied on the inside like this, or the outside. If on the outside, starting at the bottom up would be best, but as you said, on the inside, the other way around would be better.
Michael, if water gets into the wall cavity via rain, your insulation will be completely saturated before anything might pool in your lap of the internal wrap.
Building science wise, even if this lap was changed, and water that may be allowed in here, could flow down to the bottom plate, there is nothing designed in this wall system to allow it to go anywhere after that.
If water got in there, you’d need to open it all up and dry it out and reinstall everything.
The cavity must be a water free zone.
Really great video and i love the cimmitment to educating us on best practices. I would love to see how you would recommend making an existing weatherboard/chamferboard home (queenslander) to passive standards, especially when the external cladding isn't removed. I'd imagine it's much the same but i would think that consideration needs to be taken in the wall batts sitting directly on the external cladding and providing an air cavity to dry up any moisture that may come through. Love to hear your thoughts on a video on how to achieve this
Hi, are the holes made by the staples or from drywall screws / nails not a problem for maintaining air tightness?
Even if you don’t cut it right the first time as long as you can have a laugh 😂
Correct!
Hi, just a question in regards to plaster battens.
What’s the best way to do the ceiling on a renovation.
Because you would struggle to nail directly to old rafter?
Is there a way you can still use furring Chanel brackets?
In a previous efficiency matrix video you guys were installing an air tightness membrane and either double sided taping every stud or putting staples on ALL studs and putting pieces of tape over the staples after. Here it seems you only fix the edges of the air-tightness membrane with staples and tape the joints. Is it not considered necessary now to fix the middle of the sheets?
Fix the middle join? After this installation a services cavity is expected to be installed which also doubles as a mechanical fix.
I suppose the plasterboard batterns, plasterboard and any baseboard/skirting would cover the the 30mm overlap onto the floor - just thinking for those with exposed concrete floors.
Is this something the builder would do, or someone like Efficiency Matrix, as a subcontractor? Do you have any indicative costs for this
Correct.
Great video! Very helpful. Thank you for making it. But a quick question, as this looks to be a new build, how come the wrap wasn't put on the outside? Would have liked to see an example of how the services are run for the DIY wrapper, ie a powerpoint/water.
External vapour permeable wrap is still required on the outside.
Electrical services and plumbing can run in the services cavity in front of the wrap.
@@daniel.s8126 Yes there are a few ways to 'solve' the issue, which is why I was hoping they would do a few examples considering the wrap install was covered off really well. I can see the electrician just cutting the wrap if there isn't enough room when mounting a powerpoint or the plumber doing silly things as it was too tight. Plus I assume the battens would be cut/notched to allow the power to be ran around the walls to keep it all on the inside of the wrap?
Once these wraps are installed on an older house during a renovation, is it likely an energy recovery system is required for ventilation?
Yes, it's a system all or nothing.
Great video!
With the plasterboard having a significant gap now because of the spacer does it not require a thicker plasterboard to prevent and hollow sound and or wobble/dipping? Or is something else done to reduce this issue?
Or am I just overthinking it!!
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