FOLLOWING.......I have a large US AB ss keg that I am wanting to do exactly what you are doing here!! I also appreciate you starting from the beginning and showing what parts to purchase as well!! Will you be using SS all the way through to chilling worm or will you be switching up to some copper? You have my attention!!
Subbed... The build is a learning curve. Running a pot still is nothing. Running a Reflux column or a Flute is another HUGE learning curve. Use PTFE seals and avoid Silicone seals in the vapor path. PID's are brewing beer, run a simple power management controller. It is much easier to dial in more heat or less heat rather than having to re tune a PID cause the wash volume, wash abv, and wash composition are gonna effect the settings. Cheers!
I made almost the exact same system only difference was that I staggered the heater elements one on the side and one on the back but more importantly as the bottom of the keg is concaved I got the welder to offset the bottom ferrule so that the heater element gets right to the bottom of the keg, not doing this will lead to a cold spot at the bottom of your keg (something I found out the hard way)! Nice video though.
I agree, build it yourself. Make it modular. Giving you room to expand your range. Pot still/reflux/plates/ccr. Still illegal here on the other side of the pond... But hey, only if they catch you right?
@@jeremiahbullfrog9288 I don't have anything against them I just don't think its right for my application. The problem is it pulses the element on and off at 100% power. When your running a pot still it works alright but wile I'm running my reflux column when the element turns off the alcohol drops out of the column. I've watched the videos by George he seems to make it work for him but I never see a steady drip from his stills.
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Good job and thanks for showing what parts you used and how you traversed Amazon to find these parts.
Thanks man. This was my first video they get alot better from here
I appreciate you taking the time to show your procedures. I looked forward follow through this process and learn from your experience.
I have several more videos on the still if it's your thing check them out.
Thanks for taking the time to put this out there. great content.
Thanks for this information. Very helpful especially the Amazon links. I look forward to your other videos
Nice one Scott great one mate.
Brother you just got a sub just for having KF2 on your desktop!
Lol great game
Nice vid pal 👌good to see you start from the beginning on your to journey into distilling,your gunna luv it! keep on shining 👍
Thank you. I'm definitely getting better at it.
thanks alot
Thank you for making it so simple.
No problem I'm glad you got value out of it
Great job on the video, hope to build my own soon!
You won't regret it
FOLLOWING.......I have a large US AB ss keg that I am wanting to do exactly what you are doing here!! I also appreciate you starting from the beginning and showing what parts to purchase as well!! Will you be using SS all the way through to chilling worm or will you be switching up to some copper? You have my attention!!
Thanks for the video
No problem hope it helps
Good job
Thanks
Do you have the hole sizes you drilled for the heating element and the others
Hay Scott the only thing that gave you away is the American plug socket.
Subbed...
The build is a learning curve. Running a pot still is nothing. Running a Reflux column or a Flute is another HUGE learning curve.
Use PTFE seals and avoid Silicone seals in the vapor path. PID's are brewing beer, run a simple power management controller.
It is much easier to dial in more heat or less heat rather than having to re tune a PID cause the wash volume, wash abv, and wash composition are gonna effect the settings.
Cheers!
Thanks for the tips!
I made almost the exact same system only difference was that I staggered the heater elements one on the side and one on the back but more importantly as the bottom of the keg is concaved I got the welder to offset the bottom ferrule so that the heater element gets right to the bottom of the keg, not doing this will lead to a cold spot at the bottom of your keg (something I found out the hard way)! Nice video though.
i do have a small cold spot right now im thinking about recirculation to fix that
I agree, build it yourself. Make it modular. Giving you room to expand your range. Pot still/reflux/plates/ccr.
Still illegal here on the other side of the pond...
But hey, only if they catch you right?
absolutely.
What size hole saws did you use for the holes for the triclamp ferules
I don't I had a local welder cut the holes and weld everything together
SO I gotta ask...why did you go with a couple 3500 watt elements as opposed to a single 5500 watt element? Less holes, easier to wire. Thoughts?
I wanted to be able to give a more even heat
How much are you paying to the welder? if you don't mind sharing. Thanks
Luckily for me he's a good friend of mine. Got it done fairly cheap. Typically a welder would charge 50 to 80 per hour.
Hi what sort of thermometer did you use ??? Thanks
I just use a standard oven probe in a cork bung that's in the top
Cost of your boiler build plus condenser
Together around 300 dollars
I found ya and put you in my wallet lol
Thanks man lol
Dude friends don’t let friends use PID’s!
Learned that the hard way
@@jeremiahbullfrog9288 I don't have anything against them I just don't think its right for my application. The problem is it pulses the element on and off at 100% power. When your running a pot still it works alright but wile I'm running my reflux column when the element turns off the alcohol drops out of the column. I've watched the videos by George he seems to make it work for him but I never see a steady drip from his stills.