I haven't had a ton of use for paste flux as of late as I hardly do any surface mount work, but I keep mine refrigerated. I have a dedicated chemical refrigerator for that purpose in which I also store my super glues.
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamer I've only done one- turn the board upside down and heat from the top so the port falls out the bottom when ready. Don't have low melt solder 😢 it would help with removing solder from the anchor holes
Haha nice to watch you. You remind me of my self when I was young and finding out my skills. I'm sure you will smile too later when you watch your video. My work now is microsoldering of iPhone and macbooks for data recovery. Love your passion for repair and solution oriented. One Tip I can give you. Make it your self easy by rotating the board more often. Buy a better microscope and tools. Your skills will go up👍
If your iron keeps sticking while drag soldering these chips then the temp Is too low or the iron isn’t responsive enough. A higher than normal temperature is usually safe for drag soldering since you will be moving quicker anyway. You can expect a few of the pins to be power or ground and need to have enough heat and thermal mass to stay molten right through those.
@@emmettturner9452 yeah that’s right. The bent cone shaped tip needs more heat to maintain optimal thermal temperature than the K tip with more mass. I upped the heat and it was fine after, I usually use the KU tip.
Yesh, K tip is also my favorite for drag soldering thanks to the thermal mass. That said, soldering SMD chip legs is what the bent J tip is made for so it should definitely do better. To get away with low temps on that one requires an ultra-responsive cartridge-type iron with fast thermal recovery. It was definitely struggling with the braid since it’s just meant for contacting a few legs at once. Cutting the braid short there would help since the rest of the braid is sinking away all your extra thermal capacity. Heck, you can get by with less braid too since solder couldn’t soak down the length but it means saturating a couple pieces and then making a clean up pass with a third or fourth piece (still uses less and flows more readily). That can be more tedious than you might be willing to do just to save some braid but I developed that habit/technique to get away with using junk irons that otherwise couldn’t use the braid effectively.
It would be possible to replicate the custom logic in the WRAM chip with programmable logic so a standard SRAM could be used but it would most likely also take up too much space.
nice video! i have a bunch of snes with the black screen that i would like to get repaired. this might help me out getting them back up and running. if you dont mind me asking, where did you get that socket for the cpu? i work with a retro game store fixing consoles and am very capable with soldering
@@FluffyTheGryphon yeah it also uses an extended board and I believe a special chip similar to the FX chip. That’s a great game for testing the snes. 👍
Wow, Where did you get this socket? I had google it several times in the past and the only thing I could find was a expensive model that I would need to import to Brazil. I had also tried to design my own and 3D print it but no luck.
@@BarbaDNZ www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Yamaichi-Electronics/IC149-100-014-B5?qs=nO3wRANIIvk9sNuXOto9aQ%3D%3D When I ordered they had like 15 in stock and now they’re back ordered.
www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Yamaichi-Electronics/IC149-100-014-B5?qs=nO3wRANIIvk9sNuXOto9aQ%3D%3D When I ordered they had like 15 in stock and now they’re back ordered.
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamer Tks. I found this socket only in the website Mouser. But a living in brazil and import this site is very expensive. Have a other option this socket in aliexpress?
Hey Punk, I love your videos, I have a question. Some time ago I fixed a SNES Jr that had a broken fuse, after changing it, the console shew no screen, but it suddenly works after reseting, but it ends up showing glitched graphics. What could be the problem? I can show you pictures of the symptoms. Greetings from Chile!
@@NesuProps it could be many things from a dirty cart connector, broken traces between main chip and ram, or a bad main chip. Clean the cart connector really well, and if that doesn’t help check for broken traces or corrosion.
@PunkNDisorderlyGamer I cleaned the cart connector several times, and made sure there were no real dirt or stains, but the games only kicked in after pressing reset button. I'll check for any broken trace.
@ that’s not normal. I usually don’t suspect bad capacitors unless there’s an unstable video or audio issue, but in this case you might not have enough power due to some bad cap, a bad ac adapter, or intermittent voltage regulator. When you hit reset the game works without issue?
@PunkNDisorderlyGamer the ac adapter is working fine, I tested it on a Snes Jr I got around and it's definitely not that the problem. But I can suspect that considering that the console's fuse was bad any bad capacitor around the ac port might be bad. What happens is that after I reset, the game works, but it's showing the usual problems seen in PPU with graphic errors, the game works but has that issue. It happens with every game I tried like Mario Kart or F-Zero for giving examples Do you have a Discord? I can send you video of the issue. Mine is nesuart
@ yes I have a discord check the pinned comment. If you have graphic issues you might have a bad main chip or a broken trace that lead off the main chip.
I was working on my test bench the other day and my power switch accidently grounded against my board and friend the system. Has that ever happened to you?
Join the Discord it's the best way to contact me. Come share your own mod and repairs. discord.gg/q8KhMjYnfd
One chip boards repair video because I have two Bad distotortion screen help 👍
@ if you got discord please come and share some pictures of the problem.
I haven't had a ton of use for paste flux as of late as I hardly do any surface mount work, but I keep mine refrigerated. I have a dedicated chemical refrigerator for that purpose in which I also store my super glues.
@@douro20 yeah I keep my low melt solder refrigerated.
Can't wait to go back to fixing Snes stuff after replacing a PS5 HDMI port, it's way more fun
How do you replace those HDMI ports? With hot air or low melt solder?
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamer I've only done one- turn the board upside down and heat from the top so the port falls out the bottom when ready. Don't have low melt solder 😢 it would help with removing solder from the anchor holes
Haha nice to watch you. You remind me of my self when I was young and finding out my skills. I'm sure you will smile too later when you watch your video. My work now is microsoldering of iPhone and macbooks for data recovery. Love your passion for repair and solution oriented. One Tip I can give you. Make it your self easy by rotating the board more often. Buy a better microscope and tools. Your skills will go up👍
Thanks for the tip I will keep that in mind. 👍
im so stoked to see a new video from you dude, keep[ being awesome :)
Damn dude, you got set up with some good stuff
Looking forward to watching this!
If your iron keeps sticking while drag soldering these chips then the temp
Is too low or the iron isn’t responsive enough. A higher than normal temperature is usually safe for drag soldering since you will be moving quicker anyway. You can expect a few of the pins to be power or ground and need to have enough heat and thermal mass to stay molten right through those.
@@emmettturner9452 yeah that’s right. The bent cone shaped tip needs more heat to maintain optimal thermal temperature than the K tip with more mass. I upped the heat and it was fine after, I usually use the KU tip.
Yesh, K tip is also my favorite for drag soldering thanks to the thermal mass. That said, soldering SMD chip legs is what the bent J tip is made for so it should definitely do better. To get away with low temps on that one requires an ultra-responsive cartridge-type iron with fast thermal recovery. It was definitely struggling with the braid since it’s just meant for contacting a few legs at once. Cutting the braid short there would help since the rest of the braid is sinking away all your extra thermal capacity. Heck, you can get by with less braid too since solder couldn’t soak down the length but it means saturating a couple pieces and then making a clean up pass with a third or fourth piece (still uses less and flows more readily). That can be more tedious than you might be willing to do just to save some braid but I developed that habit/technique to get away with using junk irons that otherwise couldn’t use the braid effectively.
It would be possible to replicate the custom logic in the WRAM chip with programmable logic so a standard SRAM could be used but it would most likely also take up too much space.
@@douro20 the wram hardly ever fail, I’ve got plenty of them. The chips that are needed are CPUs and PPU1s.
nice video! i have a bunch of snes with the black screen that i would like to get repaired. this might help me out getting them back up and running. if you dont mind me asking, where did you get that socket for the cpu? i work with a retro game store fixing consoles and am very capable with soldering
www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Yamaichi-Electronics/IC149-100-014-B5?qs=nO3wRANIIvk9sNuXOto9aQ%3D%3D
Trace where is number 32 on third mainboard is broken, corroded. You repair three traces, but four trace is corroded, where is number 32.
I just checked the board, it seems to have continuity, but it does look broken in the video.
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamer OK)
Yoshi's island is another good game to test for weird effects.
@@FluffyTheGryphon yeah it also uses an extended board and I believe a special chip similar to the FX chip. That’s a great game for testing the snes. 👍
Oh the trusty flush box cutters
@@MavHunter20XX 🥹
excited
Wow, Where did you get this socket? I had google it several times in the past and the only thing I could find was a expensive model that I would need to import to Brazil. I had also tried to design my own and 3D print it but no luck.
@@BarbaDNZ www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Yamaichi-Electronics/IC149-100-014-B5?qs=nO3wRANIIvk9sNuXOto9aQ%3D%3D
When I ordered they had like 15 in stock and now they’re back ordered.
First, like before watching, ciao Daisuke
Brother, where can a man get one of those CPU sockets???
www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Yamaichi-Electronics/IC149-100-014-B5?qs=nO3wRANIIvk9sNuXOto9aQ%3D%3D
When I ordered they had like 15 in stock and now they’re back ordered.
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamerThats a very expensive socket 😢 i was already dreaming of buying 3 and make a 3 chips console testing rig... :(
What this model of socket? This possible use in ppu?
Yes it can be used in PPU1 and 2. The socket is a Yamaichi IC149-100-014-B5
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamer Tks. I found this socket only in the website Mouser. But a living in brazil and import this site is very expensive. Have a other option this socket in aliexpress?
Hey Punk, I love your videos, I have a question.
Some time ago I fixed a SNES Jr that had a broken fuse, after changing it, the console shew no screen, but it suddenly works after reseting, but it ends up showing glitched graphics.
What could be the problem? I can show you pictures of the symptoms.
Greetings from Chile!
@@NesuProps it could be many things from a dirty cart connector, broken traces between main chip and ram, or a bad main chip. Clean the cart connector really well, and if that doesn’t help check for broken traces or corrosion.
@PunkNDisorderlyGamer I cleaned the cart connector several times, and made sure there were no real dirt or stains, but the games only kicked in after pressing reset button.
I'll check for any broken trace.
@ that’s not normal. I usually don’t suspect bad capacitors unless there’s an unstable video or audio issue, but in this case you might not have enough power due to some bad cap, a bad ac adapter, or intermittent voltage regulator. When you hit reset the game works without issue?
@PunkNDisorderlyGamer the ac adapter is working fine, I tested it on a Snes Jr I got around and it's definitely not that the problem.
But I can suspect that considering that the console's fuse was bad any bad capacitor around the ac port might be bad.
What happens is that after I reset, the game works, but it's showing the usual problems seen in PPU with graphic errors, the game works but has that issue.
It happens with every game I tried like Mario Kart or F-Zero for giving examples
Do you have a Discord? I can send you video of the issue. Mine is nesuart
@ yes I have a discord check the pinned comment. If you have graphic issues you might have a bad main chip or a broken trace that lead off the main chip.
What's your temp setting in, "C" or "F"?
@@jimdavis6833 Celsius
I was working on my test bench the other day and my power switch accidently grounded against my board and friend the system. Has that ever happened to you?
@@JDPeters538 yeah a lot of times, it usually just kills the fuse.
Bro you definitely need to get yourself a Microscope...
I have one but I don’t record with it. I bought it to check silver coins for mint marks 🤓