It’s a bute Iain! Running into your videos just last week I had no idea what went into the Unimog . I turned your videos to a Diesel Mec. Friend of mine. Hearing your voice for the first time I guess Pretoria? Cheers! Joe
Do you have any video on rebuilding the fuel system from the fuel tank components to the Injection Pump? I need to stop the air from infiltrating from the fuel tank to the fuel filters. I think the tube that enters the new tank that I had to install has micro-holes in the tube or I never had the correct internal parts for the tank in the first place. There was a 12 volt external pump on the exterior of the fuel tank. Is that the way that Mercedes Benz mounted the fuel pump on a 1975 (406) or is that rigged up to get the next guy to fix the Unimog?! LOL! Any help would be greatly appreciated. Love the rebuild - wish I had the knowledge to do your level of work!!
Hi Ron, The fuel system is quite simple. The normal way would be a line from the fuel tank to the lift pump on the engine block. The other guys must have fitted it. On ours I fitted a facet pump and a CAV fuel filter to protect our Pollock valve that swaps between the two fuel tanks The most likely source of air is the little T piece on the injector return line that goes into the feed for the lift pump, it is made from plastic and can crack after many years, and lets in air. The t piece is at the back of the block, just follow the return line down to the main line. If you look on Benzworld, there is lots of help there.
@@UnimogAdventures I will do that tomorrow in the morning. I have to have the 406 up and running to remove snow during the winter. The unit has been faithful since 1975 and just needs deep, deep service. Thank you for your input!
I have an OM352 in a sailing ketch, and came across your video channel. I was incredibly impressed by your engineering skill ! I have been completely rebuilding the yacht and am currently rebuilding the hydraulic gearbox. I wish I could rebuild the engine too, but just don't have the time or ability to get the thing out of the boat at the moment. Great videos! ..and great job on the cleaning and prep work as well (how did you get everything so clean), it looks like a brand new engine ...I guess it is, or was two years ago !
It is the two 19mm hoses near the thermostat, and they go to into the heater right at the back of the engine bay, hard to see as they are underneath and right at the back.
Hi! Thank you for this indepth look into your work. I'm planning buying a Mercedes Benz 613D with that same engine (but non turbo), 130HP. I'm planning a fulltime life in it. What would be your opinion on the reliability of this engine as well as availability of spare parts if I travel Through all Europe. Is it costly to maintain? Thank you so much if you can help me as I'm a bit at a lost at which camper I should choose.
HI, these engines run for millions of kilometers, just need to use good quality oil and change it regularly. The 130hp non turbo is very under-stressed and should last forever. Parts and spares are easily available, especially in Europe. It takes a fair bit of oil and I use a synthetic long life oil in mine, and change the oil filter every 5000km or so, and then oil every 20,000km. If you use cheaper oil, then you need to change it more often. You need good some decent fuel filters, and air filter, which are quite large, and pretty expensive but they last about 20,000km. It is not as economical as a modern engine though, but not too bad in our truck.
@@UnimogAdventures Thank you so much for your advises. So, is that to say you would consider buying one of those a ''reasonable'' choice for a full RV life and some decent trips too? I'm a good handyman. I must admit spending 100k in a van is not exactly on my bucket list. I saw some decent and well equipped 613d around 20k here. There is a broaden version available which seems to be quite roamy. I'm wondering...Have a good one bro!
@@UnimogAdventures I think I'm going to rebuild it anyways. Are there kits available (I think about piston rings, valve guides, etc...). I hope I'm not taking too much of your time. This is a very beautiful engine. It looks very solid and wel built. It's going to be a pleasure to work on it. Have a good one and thank you for your attention and the time in answering. Take good care.
This is your U1300 isn't it Ian? Great work on the engine too mate. Did you see that Pete and Joann are going to do a video series on rebuilding their gear box.
The rebuild kit cost me about $1100 ( Pistons, gasket set and bearings) , the balancing all the components another $500, and the phosphor bronze valve guides and valve seats another $450. New water pump, harmonic balancer, engine air compressor overhaul kit and other stuff brought the total up to about $3500 if I remember correctly. I also got a new injection pump with a set of injectors ( $400 off NZ Trademe), a new GT2860RS turbo for $1300 and the diesel pump set-up and new nozzles cost another $1500. The ceramic coating of manifold etc was another $600. Iain
Iain, I like the overview of your engine build. Some might say that it’s too fast, I prefer the video just as you have it.. One can always pause and replay if desired..
@@robertolameck912 Você pode ver o recesso na tampa lateral aqui th-cam.com/video/X_RUOo70t-g/w-d-xo.html O recesso precisa estar na parte de trás do motor
Wow, love to see a guy that does his own work...Cheers
Yes, at least I know it is done right.
@@UnimogAdventures Yup, know the feeling...
You’re quite a respectable mechanic in my view. Accuracy is paramount. Thanks for the video.
Much appreciated!
Please how can someone get the manual you're using
Классное видео.Все ясно и понятно жаль без перевода
very good video, thank you
Thanks for watching
awesome stuff
It’s a bute Iain! Running into your videos just last week I had no idea what went into the Unimog . I turned your videos to a Diesel Mec. Friend of mine. Hearing your voice for the first time I guess Pretoria? Cheers! Joe
Glad you like them, Iain is from England, but spent a long time in SA
can you give us your documentation ?
Do you have any video on rebuilding the fuel system from the fuel tank components to the Injection Pump? I need to stop the air from infiltrating from the fuel tank to the fuel filters. I think the tube that enters the new tank that I had to install has micro-holes in the tube or I never had the correct internal parts for the tank in the first place. There was a 12 volt external pump on the exterior of the fuel tank. Is that the way that Mercedes Benz mounted the fuel pump on a 1975 (406) or is that rigged up to get the next guy to fix the Unimog?! LOL! Any help would be greatly appreciated. Love the rebuild - wish I had the knowledge to do your level of work!!
Hi Ron, The fuel system is quite simple. The normal way would be a line from the fuel tank to the lift pump on the engine block. The other guys must have fitted it. On ours I fitted a facet pump and a CAV fuel filter to protect our Pollock valve that swaps between the two fuel tanks
The most likely source of air is the little T piece on the injector return line that goes into the feed for the lift pump, it is made from plastic and can crack after many years, and lets in air. The t piece is at the back of the block, just follow the return line down to the main line.
If you look on Benzworld, there is lots of help there.
@@UnimogAdventures I will do that tomorrow in the morning. I have to have the 406 up and running to remove snow during the winter. The unit has been faithful since 1975 and just needs deep, deep service. Thank you for your input!
I have an OM352 in a sailing ketch, and came across your video channel. I was incredibly impressed by your engineering skill ! I have been completely rebuilding the yacht and am currently rebuilding the hydraulic gearbox. I wish I could rebuild the engine too, but just don't have the time or ability to get the thing out of the boat at the moment. Great videos!
..and great job on the cleaning and prep work as well (how did you get everything so clean), it looks like a brand new engine ...I guess it is, or was two years ago !
Lots of de-greaser and elbow grease to get it that clean.
Do you know where contected heating system to make hot inside in the cabin?
It is the two 19mm hoses near the thermostat, and they go to into the heater right at the back of the engine bay, hard to see as they are underneath and right at the back.
Hi! Thank you for this indepth look into your work. I'm planning buying a Mercedes Benz 613D with that same engine (but non turbo), 130HP. I'm planning a fulltime life in it. What would be your opinion on the reliability of this engine as well as availability of spare parts if I travel Through all Europe. Is it costly to maintain? Thank you so much if you can help me as I'm a bit at a lost at which camper I should choose.
HI, these engines run for millions of kilometers, just need to use good quality oil and change it regularly. The 130hp non turbo is very under-stressed and should last forever. Parts and spares are easily available, especially in Europe. It takes a fair bit of oil and I use a synthetic long life oil in mine, and change the oil filter every 5000km or so, and then oil every 20,000km. If you use cheaper oil, then you need to change it more often. You need good some decent fuel filters, and air filter, which are quite large, and pretty expensive but they last about 20,000km. It is not as economical as a modern engine though, but not too bad in our truck.
@@UnimogAdventures Thank you so much for your advises. So, is that to say you would consider buying one of those a ''reasonable'' choice for a full RV life and some decent trips too? I'm a good handyman. I must admit spending 100k in a van is not exactly on my bucket list. I saw some decent and well equipped 613d around 20k here. There is a broaden version available which seems to be quite roamy. I'm wondering...Have a good one bro!
@@RenoLaringo I would say they are pretty reliable, you just need to find one that has been looked after, or re-build it yourself
@@UnimogAdventures I think I'm going to rebuild it anyways. Are there kits available (I think about piston rings, valve guides, etc...). I hope I'm not taking too much of your time. This is a very beautiful engine. It looks very solid and wel built. It's going to be a pleasure to work on it. Have a good one and thank you for your attention and the time in answering. Take good care.
@@RenoLaringo Good idea, everything is available. I also had everything balanced, and that has made it super smooth, well worth the effort I think.
Hey! Where can a guy get that detailed manual you have there? Only find vague manuals, and the most detailed i found are in german. Cheerz
I got mine from Atkinson Vos in the UK, but if you are in Australia, try Mog Central , they have them as well.
There are some free ones here - not as good in some areas, and for the ADF U1700s, but very helpful anyway. afmsafety.com.au/
This is your U1300 isn't it Ian? Great work on the engine too mate. Did you see that Pete and Joann are going to do a video series on rebuilding their gear box.
Wow Mate, You sound like a Kiwi, Nice one if you are, if not, no worries
No worries
What is your estimated cost end to end? - without labor
The rebuild kit cost me about $1100 ( Pistons, gasket set and bearings) , the balancing all the components another $500, and the phosphor bronze valve guides and valve seats another $450. New water pump, harmonic balancer, engine air compressor overhaul kit and other stuff brought the total up to about $3500 if I remember correctly. I also got a new injection pump with a set of injectors ( $400 off NZ Trademe), a new GT2860RS turbo for $1300 and the diesel pump set-up and new nozzles cost another $1500. The ceramic coating of manifold etc was another $600. Iain
Can you send me the book you used to assemble the engine?
Sorry, it is a paper, and I still need it.
Iain, I like the overview of your engine build. Some might say that it’s too fast, I prefer the video just as you have it.. One can always pause and replay if desired..
Cool, thanks, you can also slow it down to1/4 speed as well.
Great video ! Can I get this manual ? Please share it !
Heavy Mechanic it is an official manual purchased from Mercedes Benz. If you are based in Australia it is available from Mog Central.
Thanks ! I thought that is is available in pdf format or had been scanned. Show us how the engine is running now
Heavy Mechanic Still running great will take a video on the weekend.
I can not wait to see it
Sir I want to Mercedes Benz om 352 a import for Pakistan plz help me?
Try Merex in Germany, they sell OM352As
Dodged a bullet on that cam cover I’d say!
Was a pain to swap it around, but not that difficult with the cab raised.
Tampa lateral dos tuchos montado errado, mesmo assim não impeça que não funcione....
No meu, ele tem um recesso para a alavanca do acelerador, que travaria o acelerador se estivesse ao contrário.
@@UnimogAdventures O recesso que diz é só um suporte para as molas do tirante da bomba injetora, é isso??
@@robertolameck912 Você pode ver o recesso na tampa lateral aqui th-cam.com/video/X_RUOo70t-g/w-d-xo.html O recesso precisa estar na parte de trás do motor
Se você encaixá-lo para trás como eu fiz, você descobrirá que a alavanca do acelerador não gira para o link que empurra a alavanca da bomba injetora.
@@UnimogAdventures Entendi é uma série diferente, um forte abraço...
Hello