The Beginning Hand Tool Kit
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- When you get started in woodworking the tools are exciting but also very daunting. It seems that we need so many tools just to build that first project. That's not exactly true. Certainly there are a lot of tools that will make things easier and faster but they are absolutely necessary. What I have assembled is a bare bones kit of tools that will allow you to do quite a lot and I actually walk through a bit of a cabinet I'm building using only this small collection of tools to demonstrate just how effective this starter set can be. I've written up this list on my blog as well at www.renaissance... with some additional descriptions of the types of tools you need to get started. There are also some great suggestions from the community at large in the comments section of that post.
Currently unemployed and trying to find a way to make a portfolio of work in order to land a joinery or carpentry apprenticeship. This video is a god send.
Best intel I've got through 10 more videos seen.
Great work for us beginners!
👍
You Have a great outlook and attitude young man!! Thank you.
Low Roman workbench, two 4x6 posts glued together with mortise and tenon legs. Easy enough to make in a day cheap and very effective. Several good videos on TH-cam on how to make one.
perfect that you did this.. I was wondering about this topic after your last podcast.
Yes that's a Mortice chisel? Quite hard to come by these days and quite expensive too! Saying that there is nothing like this chisel for making mortices. That is a beautiful piece of wood! Great video for beginners! (no workshop power tools involved)
Omg, your weight loss is amazing. I saw your recent video before this and cannot believe it. Best wishes from pakistan
I truly appreciate your videos. Wow, I mean they have been so helpful as my development as a woodworker and can't say thank you enough. The time you've put in these videos to make them both informative and efficient really puts them a step above the rest I've seen. Really looking forward to purchasing some of your classes in the near future.
This video is great, and informative. I have been holding myself back because I don't have a workbench and I'm never sure of what tools to get. Thank you for the inspiration!
This was awesome.
Awesome video! I started with power tools but find myself turning to hand tools more and more. Especially because I no longer have a space to use many power tools anymore. Anything I can do by hand for the sake of noise and space, I do by hand.
Great video. I'm new to woodworking and have managed to put together somewhat of an initial toolset but it was quite difficult making those initial decisions, even with having a first project in mind. I wish I had this video a few months ago :)
What I like about this video in particular is that it shows the basic tools, and example, and then sticks to those tools. Lots of other videos will cover the same set to start and then go on to 50 other tools that are "nice to have" etc. Often it just makes for more pressure on a beginner feeling like they'll need those too. Despite all the disclaimers these videos have that you only need the first few mentioned.
Your vid kept it simple and to the point. Thank you. Now where's that time machine to give this to me, 5 months ago ;)
I also really liked the jig at 5:21 for holding the board upright without a vise. I'll be making one of those for sure. First thought was "Oh geez, that would have been handy a few times already...."
Love the fact that you didn’t use a $1000 vise while using these tools.
Great video!
This is such great information for those starting or adding to a power shop. I know that my woodworking improved so much by adding hand tools.
Not sure I want to get into woodworking. My project is a shed door. Maybe I should find a plan first, I have the idea in my head. No problem with including wisdom in my project, so long as it fits my idea. I want to use 4” wide 8’ cedar. 4”, for aesthetics. 8’ high, is too high, so probably the right wood. I think I like the idea of 1” thick, as it will allow connecting boards at the top, middle and bottom. The outside to include X bracing, or at least look like X bracing. I think a fairly common looking shed door. I understand, it could be built with all the screws put in from the inside of the door. I need tools to somehow, while allowing for the boards to expand/contract, keep the wind from going through.
Looking at your list, I have over half the tools. Not sure I should include the chisels I have. The blades fail the sharpness test and are quite soft. I use them in fencing, barb wire fencing. At the corner posts, I use a hole saw to cut a 3” hole in the posts, 1 3/4” deep. Clean out the wood with a 1/2” chisel. I use the same hole saw on the stretcher, that goes between the two post, but use a bow saw to cut the outside off. Again 1 3/4” deep. High tinsel wire to bind it all together, failures are unheard of at least for 30 to 40 years. When fences are removed, that is not counted as a failure, just a different plan.
Anyway, as you say, some first projects require different tools. I am old, I have patients. Doing work the way you talk could only add to the patients. I don’t want to have to rebuild that door in 20 years, I will be 92. Of course it would be neat if I could rebuild that door.
I learned the hard way. Started off with just a cheap block plane, thinking i could use that for all of my planning. 😊 Still dont own a proper plane
Nice tips, I may get this very basic set of hand tools build some furniture.
Shannon, Wonderful video on the basic hand tool set. Your recommendation on spending a little money on good tools is a very good idea. When you first start out, it's important to have success with your first project and it's important to enjoy the process of milling, jointing and assembling your project. Cheap tool just impedes my previous statement.
Great lesson
Thanks Shannon, I agree with everything except spending lots of money on you first tools. When I started I bought a set of chisels from Harbor Freight. When I was starting out I didn't use the chisels properly and they got dull fast so I got good at sharpening. The steel in the chisels is soft and was easy to sharpen and I wasn't worried that it was a $25 chisel. Now I have purchased a good set but I wouldn't want to fix an edge on this hard Japanese steel.
Agreed. I started out with really crappy tools and it did have one upside: learning to repair and tune up basic tools really helps to understand the mechanics of them all. Learning wise it is really worth the effort to do this yourself. Another thing that I would highly recommend is vintage tools. It's difficult to beat a Type 11 or older Stanley 4 1/2 ! (Veritas makes some really nice planes that, unfortunately, are out of my budget)
I don't disagree with this at all. Especially with chisels. My favorite ones are vintage models with "less than" steel as compare to modern one. But I wanted to state this because I know waaaaaay too many people who have seriously struggled at first with a plane or a saw because it wasn't tuned well and they didn't know what it should work like. I completely agree with you and Rodrigo on your points that you learn a lot about how the tool works by restoring it. But...it also leads to a lot of frustration and a steeper learning curve for many. This is not an assumption either, but borne from 7 years of running The Hand Tool School and helping thousands of woodworkers through this initial struggle. Some handle vintage tool restoration with grace and I'm glad those folks are around.
I'm glad you actually mentioned the workbench (or lack thereof). I have never seen anyone bring this up in a beginner's tool kit and have always wondered what to do starting out without a workbench. I did, however, notice no mention of clamps or other tool to hold workpieces in place while planing. Do you have any tips for that?
Hi there from Portugal,
Nice :D
Obrigado(Thanks)
Great recommendations Shannon!
Now i understand why a trim-router gets so much love from woodworkers. It is probably the only tool which is cheaper faster and easier than the hand-tools it replaces. Except the saw, one always needs a handsaw.
Nice video. Couldn’t remember chisel sizes, did you mention any reason for sizes beyond 1”? I am upgrading my bench set to add some mortise only narex, so 1/4” and 3/8”.
I've just bought a new handsaw. 1.5 tpi, tungsten teeth. It's rubbish on wood, but absolutely rocks on cellular concrete blocks!
Nice Video, don't forget Clamps, no tool set is complete without a few of those.
sure but also easily picked up cheaply at any hardware store and even then best to be purchase as you need them instead of going out and buying a bunch of them without know why you got that type or if you will use that size. Best to not muddy the waters too much when first getting started. Rehearse your first project glue and walk through it to figure out what kind of clamping you need to do, then run and get your clamps. Repeat on the next project and the next until you find you don't need to buy any
RenaissanceWW that's a good point, I often find myself buying Clamps mid project, just bout some 72" inch length of 3/4 pipe to make 8 long Clamps for a bench. Have been woodworking as a hobbyist for 3 years and never needed that length
I like your perspective on this. I think I would recommend that the first project would be to build a marking gauge, maybe two or three. Teaches about precision and if you mess it up you're not out much money on materials. Plus I found that one is never enough because I forget to mark everything before I move it so I spend extra time on setup. Probably the next thing would be a saw bench because it doesn't take much room, helps with sawing and can be used as a workbench when one is not readily available. Working on other surfaces is fine but wives generally don't like you using their furniture so you become greatly limited pretty quickly. But the idea you purport of just getting what you need for what you want to build is definitely best. Better to start and learn what you need as you go along than have analysis paralysis.
I would suggest a bench hook before you dive into a gauge. Really a bench hook is like a micro workbench. Put it on top of anything and you have a work surface to chisel, saw, etc. It teaches you about milling a board flat and square and even gluing up a panel if you make a wider hook. Use a thin 1/4" fence and you can saw and do all kind of joinery on the hook which will be VERY useful for then moving on to the marking gauge.
greetings from Maine, good video as always
Great and inspirational. Thanks!
well done
Thanks for the info Shannon!
Great video.
that hand saw is a beauty!!! Who was the maker?
Great video thanks! The only deference to my original tool set is that my only saw was a Japanese pull saw. (and i still do not have a marking gauge)
A lot of good advice packed into a short video. It’s worth paying attention to the details: it’s called the “Beginning Hand Tool Kit”, not the “Beginner’s Hand Tool Kit” - probably for good reason: you’re looking at a 1000 dollhairs worth of tools, easily. Maybe this video is aimed at those who want to become professional woodworkers, but a lot of hobbyists will be watching: I really like the idea that amateurs should NOT settle for cheap, crappy equipment. But if you’re not sure whether this is for you, it might be a good idea to pick up a set of inexpensive chisels, learn how to sharpen them and have a go at making a few simple joints first. If that feels like fun, it’s time to call your bank and let them know that your account is about to undergo a… paradigm shift.
P.S. clamps
I think I would have added the hammer to the kit. You had it on the bench in the beginning. Gotta hit them chisels with something. Other than that you are correct that that little bit of kit can do quite a bit...
As far as a bench goes, you can build a bench from those tools. If you keep your eyes open for construction sites, you could possibly get enough 2x4/2x6 for free to make a bench. The only thing you need to purchase would be a box of screws and a scaffold leveler for a vise screw. After the mallet, this would be another really good project.
YES, YES, YES, YES....did I say yes? Exactly. That first bench needs to be a flat-ish surface, just knock it out and get to working. The fancy one can come later when you know what you want.
thank you for the info it makes sense
Btw i love that portable crotch. Might have to build one.
6:50
I'm somewhat of a newbie..... and perhaps I'm overthinking things, but I avoid having mortices where the longer dimension is end grain, reasoning that glue doesn't work as well on end grain connections.
In particular, I built an outdoor bench where I *could* have used a mortice and tenon exactly like this to join the legs to the top, but felt like I needed to do something different to avoid trying to glue up end grain.
Would a mortice and tenon have been fine to use in that case?
Thanks in advance to anyone who's willing to share their opinion.
Would you recommend a rip or crosscut carcass saw and could you do a series on building projects with that basic tool kit
Nixon Wu by definition a carcass Saw is filed crosscut. So definitely crosscut. If look across my channel you will find many projects where I rarely deviate from the tool set shown here.
The live videos are always fun and I'll have to be sure to show up. A quick (maybe?) question. I have a basic irwin coping saw from Lowes and the knew concepts one looks amazing but out of the budget for now. Would it be worth buying a vintage coping saw to use or just stick with what I've got. Also fret saw vs coping saw mainly with the intent of removing dovetail waste. Would a fine tooth coping saw blade be an adequate replacement?
if you can get a blade that will navigate the tight quarters of dovetails then yes I think a coping saw is fine. It isn't the pitch but the actual width of the blade you need to look for. I like my fret saw for it since it actually turns 90 degrees inside the saw kerf so I don't have to swoop into the baseline but just cut straight across. And yes, I think a typical coping saw would work just fine. The Knew Concepts fret saw is outstanding but the coping saw I think isn't nearly as necessary or impressive.
RenaissanceWW the blades I have are just about 1/8" so a bit big to turn in a kerf. I usually have to do the swooping cuts. I might have to look around to see if they have thinner ones or if a fret saw is in my future.
Aren't your work benches with holdfasts and stops tools?
What's the way to go for a first rip handsaw? Pax? Impulse hardened Stanley from Home Depot? I went with japanese saws, but I'd really like to pick up a traditional rip saw that's ready to go so I can avoid getting into sharpening saws for as long as possible..
Kirby Weldon if at all possible buy a vintage Disston or similar and have it sharpened or do it yourself. The impulse hardened saws do crosscut well but are painfully slow on a rip cut.
Maybe some clamps might be helpful? Good video. Thank you.
Shannon
Have to give you thumb UP for the most of it, however, I was astonished to see you using your "cutting" bench incorrectly!
The space that separates the two halves of the bench is to let the saw freely "ride" when you rip a long board, so, when you rip a piece that is longer that your bench, after the first 5-10 inches, you "back" the whole piece on the bench, for maximum support, doe let it "hang over" the bench like you did.
Over the years, I learned from my mistakes, but it's rather sweeter to learn from other people's mistakes...
ronin4711 that's one way to do it but I have found in myself and through teaching others that sliding the board back increases the weight distribution in the body towards the back, thus rotating the shoulders and drawing the cut out of plumb. You want to step forward with the standing leg to the point where your weight is totally forward and you are "perched" on the front of the bench. If I were to build it again I would eliminate the slot as it only serves a purpose when ripping very narrow strips. The best method I have found is to use a pair of sawbenches and saw between them. Alas I was feeling lazy and didn't pull out my saw bent for this. If a second bench isn't around then saw off the side of your bench and let the saw plate travel that way while still keeping your weight forward and shoulders aligned.
Shannon
There is more than one way to "skin a cat", although I hate this proverb but it's true.
Whatever floats your boat...
Thanks for your response.
wearing sandal in the work shop. my grandfather would kill me
and a portable bench to lock stuff
true and my Mobile Workbench could be a good solution, th-cam.com/video/LnWYPkq-wYY/w-d-xo.html
I get mad every time I see that Bontz saw and I can't get one. :-)
It's simple call Ron and tell him you want one. He's still making them ;)
That was very helpful Shannon. I'm starting traditional woodworking and carving classes in Camden, Maine (www.MaineCoastWorkshop.com/) and was debating what should constitute a basic student tool set. This was excellent - really like your rationale.
BTW, I'll be sending all my students to you as an ongoing follow-up after my hand tool, period project, and other classes. You are the perfect compliment to what I'm doing.
Very exciting William. And Camden is a lovely town. I'll pay you a visit when I'm next visiting my in laws up in ME. I'd love to see your school.
@@RenaissanceWW Where in Maine do you visit?
@@WilliamBrownGuitar Southport Island, in the Boothbay region
@@RenaissanceWW Beautiful area! Not too far from Camden. Would like to host you at our place Shannon.
And perhaps a couple of clamps and glue... Thanks for the video
Man, I just wish you would also use the metric system in your videos.
you said you would get to the reasons why those chisels were selected but I don't think you ever did get to those reasons why.
I selected my chisels based on the typical joinery cut in furniture projects. The 3/8 and 1/4 chisel match up with most mortises and the 1" is a great chisel for paring tenon cheeks.
I will ad a bench, it's a tool after all.
sure its a tool but you can use the basic kit outlined to build a bench so I don't include it. In fact I think that is an outstanding first project to get some experience.
@@RenaissanceWW yes you're right
if you are look for tools and your a apprentice / trainee buy WILLIAM GREAVES HANDSAWs and LYNX dovetail & tenon saws from Thomas flinn saw tradesmen can afford
dont forget a workmate bench until you can afford or have room for a full bench
Maybe i would add Just a Rasp and a file
agreed, but like I said it can come later unless you find yourself doing a lot of curves and sculpted work right away. But you can add those tools as needed.
I got all that stuff and realized I can't cut straight with a saw to save my life :(
a little practice goes a long way. Seriously layout 10 lines on a 24" long board and rip each of them. Stop and check each with a square in between cuts and work on adjusting your technique.
Shannon, while I really enjoy your videos, I am kind of frustrated by instructors implying, if not recommending, to woodworkers that that is what they should be going for. If I'm not mistaken, I see about 1000 to 1500 bucks worth of "minimal" tools here. "Invest a little bit of money"? In my ears that's arrogant (no offense), and to be honest, I'm quite tired of people talking about "a little bit of money" referring to a 400 dollar handplane or an 80 dollar chisel.
Again, thanks for your content and no offense, but I recall very well that that point was quite intimidating when I started out woodworking, I couldn't stop myself from doing the math seeing people's tool walls.
Lap Joint ok point taken but what do you feel is the alternative? Vintage tools have gotten pretty expensive too.
RenaissanceWW Thanks Shannon for replying! How about: Narex or MHG chisels, Crown Tools Square and marking gauge, Veritas or Flinn/Garlick/Pax saws. Any kind of coping or fret saw from the big box store. The only thing I cannot come up with is an affordable plane that's not made in China. I would probably recommend to a newcomer to go with Quangsheng (Wood River etc.). Tuning up a vintage plane is easier indeed if you have a premium plane so you know what to aim for. Here in Europe, I would look for a used Ulmia or ECE wooden plane which are about 5 Euros on the flea market.
Lap Joint of course. The point of this video was to identify the tools to start and their utility, not the brands to actually buy
RenaissanceWW Ok. Thanks!
Regarding new vs restored Vintage:
Sometimes the Restored Vintage will still remain a piece of s(%%t, no disrespect, so you invested some of your valuable (or not) time to restore it... vs a new tool, yes, expensive but worth it at the end....
It's always, either time or money...
Cheap tools bad. Just don't.