The big converter blew its fuses and only did 800 watts because your input voltage was too low. If you raised the input voltage to 48 volts, it would've done 1200 watts with ease. However, the real test would be to see what load it could sustain for several minutes without overheating.
LOL that's ok this is your point of view to focus about howmany minutes it can works without overheating! But that's a good point to see. For to give you a response about that I never noticed a any one clue of over heat when from those converters when experimenting. Anyway you're right about the 48V supply to have 1200W and I supposed it raise this power if it's powered like that. Anyway, the purpose of this video was to show if those device are real, quite reliable, or fake. Even if I didn't raise lot's of power, I think those device are reliable and exceptionnel for the price. Thanks for your comment.
Do you know the maximum output voltage when the input is 48v? Some sellers say its about 92v, but im afraid to buy because my inverter uses about 90v, nothing less.
this was probably one of the best real-world tests that you could have ever done on these devices and I think so far this may just be the gold standard. as they say in Europe this is absolutely mental! you even tested the inrush current which is really awesome really dude you went Above and Beyond on this one!
Back in the day I was also interested in making my own car amplifiers so I researched the dc-to-dc converters as well and I did manage to build my own that gave me about 24 volts at 100 Watts total power. I had a Radio Shack book on building power supplies and it included how to build switching power supplies and one of the chapters was how to build a step up converter power supply so I model moine after that using a 555 timer and an IRF510 mosfet alomg with a hand wound toroid inductor
hello yes this kind of project maked us struggling a lot. But now with some information on internet we can find some interesting ideas. Back in the day, absolutely no one could help me, ingineers, or teachers, nobody know about that. Thanks for your comment.
@@researchandbuild1751, I was exactly 17-18, and I didn't have even a oscilloscope. I tryied very hard to build dc/dc converters, all my money was spent to buy mosfet, toroidals, which was destroyed instantaniously. It was a very struggling time. But I learn a lot. Thanks
thanks on all that! rad setup.. answered questions of what i would've never known.. informative info for someone scouring charging systems on a shoe string budget..
I have the white 250W 10A boost board but it has a design flaw. Input 12V - set Output 30V - Connect 30R load and switch it on with load connected. It draws over 5 Amps and gets very hot! I use a 5A limited PSU so it is not destroyed. But - if you switch it on with no load connected and then connect the load, then it works OK. So please repeat your tests but connect load FIRST and then switch on power. The result will be very different for some PSUs!
This is not a flaw design. The booster you are talking about is A LED DRIVER. And booster for LED doesn't work like a classical booster. They need to reach a certain voltage, according the voltage of the output, normally a high power LED voltage, before sending current. If current is growing on a linear way before reaching this setpoint voltage, the system will not work properly. you can add to the output a relay, or mosfet, to switch on the output only when the voltage is rising the maximum. Connect a 24v relay to your output with a 470 ohmw resistor, and connect your load trough the NO switch of this relay. You will be satisfyied. Don't forget this device is a LED driver, thanks.
Thank you for your excellent video :) I bought the large convertor to charge my (12v) 14.6v 120Ah LifePo4 DIY battery. Was planning to run a 20A psu at about 12v to get the 14.6v out. I think it should work just fine.
@@AIexanderHartdegen I already have the 1200w one now, I'll just current limit it. I always prefer to have a big thing running low than a small thing running high. Perhaps this is a bad idea with these convertors though?
@@AIexanderHartdegen I already have the 1200w one now, I'll just current limit it. I always prefer to have a big thing running low than a small thing running high. Perhaps this is a bad idea with these convertors though?
That's a good idea. But it was just about the price. Because those device are high efficiency you can use it as you like. But the current limit is a perfect choice on the 1200W model. Indeed, if you use the 150W model you have to care about current limitation yourself. y The white model have also a current limitation if I remember right. Thanks for your comment.
2:40 how about this converter to power a 80W (19V 5A) laptop from car (12VDC) continuously? I think it would fry because about 10A primary side current, or is it strong enough?
it seems to works nice, simply warm.Because this is a high effeciency boost converter. If you want to be more prudent, you can use two, connected in parralel, to dissipate more. But one can be enough. But for a continuous power, you need to forseen a air cooling box, or working without a box. If connected in parrallel, you need a low value resistor on each positive output.
Through this video you fully explained different different Boost Converter, thank you. Now I would like to ask you a question as, why Boost Converters are differentiated on watt basis? For example, 100 watts, 150 W, 1200 W or 1800 W.
Ok, thanks, but bitbattery needs low cut off at say 11 volt so I need to think this booster is needed for our emergency lights which we have planned to produce more in qty
dont forget the essential. Booster are used to convert a low voltage to an higher voltage, for any use you want. Charging batterys, light, amplifier, motors, ever you want. Thanks for your interest.
Very nice video. Thanks. I have a 48v battery bank. Would like to know if i can use this boy to increase the output voltage to something about 90v? That way i can use my nobreak as inverter. Thanks buddy and keep up the good work.
there is two models of the big one. The previous model is 1200W and gives 80V. But the new model about 1500W reach 86V. To reach 90v would be more difficult but if you can have enough of 86 you can buy the 1500w model
@@AIexanderHartdegen still cheaper than normal, they have been going for around 15-17 now they are going for 11-13, i have the 1500 as well with the fan and for what I'm using it for they will only ever use 500 watts at most at 66volts so the 1200 are a steal compared to all of the lower wattage ones.
Hey got a quick question I think you can help me with. With the white boost converter (with the aluminum bottom), do you think it can handle a 6s battery 22.2 volts, boosted to 31-33v 3 amps max? What do you think?
Thanks!!! I have 4 or 5 of these and I never really tested them. Got a project I’m working on and this is a key component. Thanks for the quick reply!!!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
For The white one 250 watts when I connect 12 volt battery it short circuits. Can you please tell what might be happening.... Have 2 of these both doing the same
first connect the booster, after the booster is on, connect the load. Be carreful, if the load is to strong, it can destroy the main MOSFET transistor. Those white boost converter are made for working without load until 35V (use for power LED). For that reason, you need to take time to let them switch on, and after, connect it to the load. If they are shorted without load, main MOSFET is dead, need to change it. Also, check output and input diod.
cracked a small ceramic capacitor in front of the output terminals. Located between two electrolytes 100v 470 mF and output connector. Please tell me his number
@Maier Maier Hello, you don't really need this ceramic capacitor. It's an capacitor between 10 and 100 nf (I think it's 4,7nF) used here to filter output in the range of high frequency output, helping the chimical capacitor by having a different behavior with high frequency. You don't really need it but if you want to replace it simply by another ceramic capacitor of 4,7nf...100nf.
Can i use the second one on 02:54 to connect with 12V 70A car battery? I want to increase the voltage, because I want to make a 200 Watts power amplifier in my car, i need 20V and 10A current.. Thanks for the answer..nice video and very inspiring..
I think it will work. But for your use, it will be better to use two converter, connected in parralel with connecting a low resistor value output for each (0,2 0,1 ohm). Dont forget there is a new version of it, slightly more powerfull, of the same booster. I advice to you to use the 3:40 version.
Got one more quick question...LOL. I need a PWM controller to control the power of a glow plug. I read somewhere that the White Boost converter uses a TL494 pwm chip. Do you think using the current side, I could control the temperature with this? I have a project coming up and I just need something simple to control the power. What do you think?
Maybe you are talking about a glow plug coming from a diesel car engine. Those plug, if that's you're talking about, use a high current to heat, mostly when they are cold. A single plug can pull between 15 and 20 amps when it's brandnew. But you want to control the temperature. I think those device are not suitable for to drive a load with an impedance of 0,5 ohms... Because this is simply a short circuit for them, and the raise of voltage across so little impedance is nearly impossible from a device like that. If you really want a temperature control, you need also a temperature probe for a feedback control... It is possible to manage to fix a thermocouple on the heating element of this glow plug? The other solution is to connect basically the plug to the power manager, and see how it's heat. Until it rise the desired temperature, the power need to be switched of. And reconnected when the temperature failed to much. The frequency of switching/unswitching need to be considered, and a on/off circuit of the same frequency need to be build, with a relay of power mosfet transistor. The TL494 can be use for to control temperature, but you need a feedback control.When plug are connected they pull more than 10 amps and they stay cold... If you intend to feed your plug with a high voltage decreased with this kind of boost module, you need to know than "boost" are not " buck", also they are not able to deliverate low voltage from a high voltage. On a car, plug are connected to the main by a simple power relay. If you want to "control the temperature", a feedback is need. Thant's mean you need to add a sensor on the glow plug tip. And this, after the question of the power supply able to feed such devices will be settled. The problem is not the power, the problem is to rise from a short circuit to the voltage required to maintain the plug hot. The most simple way is the adjustable flickering relay (mecanic or electronic), with temperature adjustement before will be approved.
Alexander Hartdegen most important f the chatter claims, the only way to control them is with a pwm of some sort without a temp return. The resistance is enough to pull around 8 amps from a 12v source. I forgot these boost converters don’t like resistive loads. I actually built a pwm with a temperature return from a lm358 and z44.(video is call 907f mini soldering iron), that may work for this. I also have some 10k 5% glass thermistor.(same ones use with the hakko soldering irons). Maybe I can figure something out with this??? Thanks for the details and heads up!!!!
In the hakko iron they use type K thermocouple or a PTC sensor of something like 1 kilohom maximum. Probably the thermistor you're talking about comes from the pcb of this hakko iron? Temperature probe for high value are special, you can not use a one intented for a pcb. You really need a termocouple and a v/V converter, like a op amp. I think 358 can do the job (I think but need to be tested). For this, you dont need a 394 but simply a first amplification and a new op amp for switching from a reference source. I think the mostly serious work here is to fix a thermocouple on the plug. But, also, you can use a plug just with a continue flickering power supply, regulating simply the heat by this way, very easely. Some people use this technic with soldering cartridge.
@@AIexanderHartdegen You are correct! The cicuit board I made is actually for the 907F hakko or fake soldering iron that uses the thermistor. But with a little tweaking, I can use a thermocouple. The cuiruit uses a basic lm358 PWM with sensing feedback from the resitance of the thermister. Take a peek when you get a chance. I'm thinking if i need a refrence from the glow plug, using a thermistor(may not be enough for 1000c). I may try and alter for a thermocouple. But I just found another post where the DIYer used the same lm358 system just to control the amerage going to the glow plug. I basiclly just want something to divide the heat from 1000c pus to 500c or under. No matter, sounds like some fun testing ahead..>LOL
Not like that. You need to add a low value resistor output for each before to connect it in parallel, something between 0,5 and few ohms. You need to make some test to found the best lower value.
Thank you so muchhh. I bought 4 pcs of type 1500w booster. I tend to boost 4 solar panel to 80V then series them upto 320-330V DC, then it could be power supply for Inverter Air conditioner! Do you think the idea is possible or not? Can it damage The whole Air Conditioner?
Each solar pannel need to be able to provide 1/4 minimum of total power of the air conditionner. Each output converter need to be connected to a high voltage and high capacitance capacitor. If your air conditionner need a triphase input, you need a DC/triphase converter. If your air conditionner have electronic rectifier dimmer, you can feed it simply with the dc voltage coming from the converters. You need a automatic switch to deconnect the air conditionner from the main before the power supply goes down, due to vanishing of the sun. You need to analyze if your air conditionner is able to work with DC current. (if it has electronic motor driver, it must be ok) You need to know than if your air conditionner is old, it will use a high pic of current when starting, and you need a lot of capacitors to allow it. It can works, but it need some studies and lot of test.
@kerala lottry C board guessing On Amazon www.amazon.fr/s?k=boost+converter&__mk_fr_FR=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&ref=nb_sb_noss On Aliexpress www.aliexpress.com/af/boost-converter.html?SearchText=boost+converter&d=y&initiative_id=SB_20190409085018&origin=n&catId=0&isViewCP=y&jump=afs On Bangood www.banggood.com/search/boost-converter.html On Ebay www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1312.R1.TR0.TRC0.A0.H0.TRS5&_nkw=boost+converter&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=brymen
Sir, awesome video. It was very educational. Can you please tell me how to change the trimmers on the first converter you featured to a linear rotary potentiometer. My converter is the 400 watt type. And it has a trimmer for CC and one for CV. My goal is to change those trimmers to the rotary potentiometers for a project I'm working on. Thank you so much. I hope you can help me. I tried many searches and have not found anything. Take care
@mario sellet Hello, if I understand your question well, it's very easy to change the trim on your inverter. First, you need to read the value on the original trim. Also, the rotary potentiometer for supersiding the trim need to have the same value. The trim have tree point, the center is the cursor, like a rotary potentiometer, and the edge are the limit connectors, like the rotary potentiometer. So, very basiquely, just desoldering trim, soldering long wires to a potentiometer, and using the same order (the central pin on the trim is the central pin in the rotary potentiometer) It's very easy. I hope I understood your resquest well. If not, just tell me. Thanks for your comment.
@@milvolts1 no, wire size and gauge doesn't matter. Just need to care about wire disconnection. During process, if a wire, or cursor is disconnected, it can increase the output voltage suddenly, wich can be very dangerous for supplied device, potentiometers are not as stable as trims. Thanks for your attention.
@Artur Dietrich hello. You can not use this boost converters as it is, because they have not separate ground. For your need, you can purchage a symetrical boost converter, but it's really more expensive. If you want a very cheap mean to create a symetrical power supply from a monorail boost converter, please refer at this video on my channel to create a symetrical from a single rail: th-cam.com/video/8a-9RnGA7QM/w-d-xo.html
hi i have a 36v 370wh battery its 10a, the charger is 42v 2a i'm wanting to buy something like this to charge it from my car at 12v, think the controller on the battery can accept up to 4a whats the best one of these dc to dc to do the job do you think?
You can make it with the white model, with adusting current output max and adding a diode on output for more safe. There is new models avalaibale, with more power, 600W instead 300.
@@AIexanderHartdegen thankyou what diode would you use ? think ive found it 600w version has amp and volts , costs about £7 inc postage. the only thing i cant see heatsink so nowhere to add a fan if i find it gets to hot, what you think?
@@lookoutleo you can use 3 x 1N4007 in parralel. This booster is built on aluminium plate, wich hold all power transistors. You can stuck it by adding special compound and fix it on a heatsink. You need to be careful because using those booster on 12V force them to work hardely. When you are experimenting, you can use 12V50W car bulbe is series with the booster to prevent any damage before fixing all presets.
@@AIexanderHartdegen Thankyou for the info, is it the module with 3 capacitors on both ends? Would I have an amp meter in series to set the output current , the battery has built-in BMS so should be ok even if the current is set wrong? I'll put an 8a fuse on the 12v side to as it should draw about 6a 12v to create 2a 42v ish? Thankyou for the help. I was looking at the 20a boost modules with the digital display , they are about £15 , these seem so cheap for what they are, I already have a 150w one I use on my laptop , it's 12v to 19v Chromebook works great :)
@@lookoutleo yes. the module with 3 capacitors. Yes you need ampmeter to check the output current. But you can not have 300W from 12V. Those devices have the full power with only few volts difference between entry and output. To have the best power you can use the 20A module, it's the most powerfull and reliable module, mostly if you want charge your battery fastly.
You can build or to make engineered the device you want. It can take time and it can cost. But you can spent some money on these bigs converters. You probably need 4, 5 or 6 of these. You have to connect all the output adjusted at same value with low value resistor each. It can make the job.
12 volts led need constant voltage to operate. After a while, when voltage would decreasing, you will have a significant plummet light. If you use a booster you can feed you 12V led until the battery dead completely, until the minimal voltage afordable to the booster. Without booster you will have a low effeciency light, but with no loss energy. With a booster you will have a high effeciency light but with a loss added due to the voltage/current conversion.
Hello, i've just got this dc booster. It has 3 pots, one for CC, other for CV, but the 3rd (near the input) what does it do? label is RV1 or something.
@@AIexanderHartdegen limitation current output is "CC" (Current Control). The 3rd (near the input, not near the output) is to limit the minimum input voltaje. Thanx
@@AIexanderHartdegen thank you... how many watt current loss on the battery 12 volt... 1500W 30A how many watts energy grout...Does 12 volt discharge the battery quickly?hopefully the correct translation has been....the subject i mean : What is the energy consumption fan and diodes ?
the power output is the same than the power input, with a little loss. For exemple, if you are supplying a device using 100 watts with this DC/DC converter, you will have 105 watts on the battery circuit. Yes, according to the power output you can use with this unit, this booster can be greedy of energy. And this is normal. Fan and led are not greedy of energy, and those consumption are negligeable.
Hi, i want to step up voltage of my electric scooter, it is 60v battery (30a discharge BMS), fully charged is 67v, can i step up from 67v to 77v? I read the maximum input of boost is only 60v, can it handle 67v? Thank you
This is a hard question. For to know that, you need to read the capacitor in front of the power supply section. They need to be at 67v at least. 67V here are the voltage of a non load battery, wich means than this voltage doesn't stay in the time. You can try by connecting your battery to your booster with a 25 or 50W bulb connected in series. At first, you can see the bulb emiting a short light, and switch of. If the light is always emited (with 5/6.7 volts at it's lead) that mean than the booster is over supplyied. Anyway, take care about that but I think it will works nice. Thans for your comment.
@@AIexanderHartdegen ok tell me just one more thing, in booster i can regulate the amperage correct? Im thinking in buy the 1800w booster in aliexpress and my battery bms is 30A and my controller is 25A, so in booster i keep the booster at maximum amperage? How i regulate it?
@@gabrielpinheiro114 you don't have to regulate anything. This is the role of your controller, you just need to supply enough current and voltage. Just keep the current control of the booster at the maximum. The potentiometer on the 1800 booster is a current limitation, for preventing an overload on a basic load, or an battery charging process.
@@AIexanderHartdegen so i keep the input voltage of potentiometer at maximum and also the potentiometer current at maximum? Just adjust the output to my desire voltage correct?
The big converter blew its fuses and only did 800 watts because your input voltage was too low. If you raised the input voltage to 48 volts, it would've done 1200 watts with ease. However, the real test would be to see what load it could sustain for several minutes without overheating.
LOL that's ok this is your point of view to focus about howmany minutes it can works without overheating! But that's a good point to see.
For to give you a response about that I never noticed a any one clue of over heat when from those converters when experimenting.
Anyway you're right about the 48V supply to have 1200W and I supposed it raise this power if it's powered like that.
Anyway, the purpose of this video was to show if those device are real, quite reliable, or fake. Even if I didn't raise lot's of power, I think those device are reliable and exceptionnel for the price. Thanks for your comment.
Do you know the maximum output voltage when the input is 48v? Some sellers say its about 92v, but im afraid to buy because my inverter uses about 90v, nothing less.
this was probably one of the best real-world tests that you could have ever done on these devices and I think so far this may just be the gold standard.
as they say in Europe this is absolutely mental! you even tested the inrush current which is really awesome really dude you went Above and Beyond on this one!
Sometimes I try to make my best. This is just a sample of it :)
Back in the day I was also interested in making my own car amplifiers so I researched the dc-to-dc converters as well and I did manage to build my own that gave me about 24 volts at 100 Watts total power. I had a Radio Shack book on building power supplies and it included how to build switching power supplies and one of the chapters was how to build a step up converter power supply so I model moine after that using a 555 timer and an IRF510 mosfet alomg with a hand wound toroid inductor
hello yes this kind of project maked us struggling a lot. But now with some information on internet we can find some interesting ideas. Back in the day, absolutely no one could help me, ingineers, or teachers, nobody know about that. Thanks for your comment.
@@AIexanderHartdegen exactly i was doing this in the early 90s when the internet really wasnt as big and information was much harder to find
@@researchandbuild1751, I was exactly 17-18, and I didn't have even a oscilloscope. I tryied very hard to build dc/dc converters, all my money was spent to buy mosfet, toroidals, which was destroyed instantaniously. It was a very struggling time. But I learn a lot. Thanks
thanks on all that! rad setup.. answered questions of what i would've never known.. informative info for someone scouring charging systems on a shoe string budget..
j'ai rien compris à ton commentaire mais merci quand même.
I have the white 250W 10A boost board but it has a design flaw.
Input 12V - set Output 30V - Connect 30R load and switch it on with load connected. It draws over 5 Amps and gets very hot! I use a 5A limited PSU so it is not destroyed.
But - if you switch it on with no load connected and then connect the load, then it works OK.
So please repeat your tests but connect load FIRST and then switch on power. The result will be very different for some PSUs!
This is not a flaw design. The booster you are talking about is A LED DRIVER.
And booster for LED doesn't work like a classical booster. They need to reach a certain voltage, according the voltage of the output, normally a high power LED voltage, before sending current. If current is growing on a linear way before reaching this setpoint voltage, the system will not work properly.
you can add to the output a relay, or mosfet, to switch on the output only when the voltage is rising the maximum. Connect a 24v relay to your output with a 470 ohmw resistor, and connect your load trough the NO switch of this relay. You will be satisfyied. Don't forget this device is a LED driver, thanks.
Thank you for your excellent video :) I bought the large convertor to charge my (12v) 14.6v 120Ah LifePo4 DIY battery. Was planning to run a 20A psu at about 12v to get the 14.6v out. I think it should work just fine.
Hello I think you might use the 150w inexpensive model, it can fit easely for increasing for few voltage. Glad you like the video.
@@AIexanderHartdegen I already have the 1200w one now, I'll just current limit it. I always prefer to have a big thing running low than a small thing running high. Perhaps this is a bad idea with these convertors though?
@@AIexanderHartdegen I already have the 1200w one now, I'll just current limit it. I always prefer to have a big thing running low than a small thing running high. Perhaps this is a bad idea with these convertors though?
That's a good idea. But it was just about the price. Because those device are high efficiency you can use it as you like. But the current limit is a perfect choice on the 1200W model. Indeed, if you use the 150W model you have to care about current limitation yourself. y
The white model have also a current limitation if I remember right. Thanks for your comment.
Thanks a ton for this video sir.
glad you like it.
Perfect. Very good tank you
glad u like it.
2:40 how about this converter to power a 80W (19V 5A) laptop from car (12VDC) continuously? I think it would fry because about 10A primary side current, or is it strong enough?
it seems to works nice, simply warm.Because this is a high effeciency boost converter. If you want to be more prudent, you can use two, connected in parralel, to dissipate more. But one can be enough. But for a continuous power, you need to forseen a air cooling box, or working without a box.
If connected in parrallel, you need a low value resistor on each positive output.
Through this video you fully explained different different Boost Converter, thank you. Now I would like to ask you a question as, why Boost Converters are differentiated on watt basis? For example, 100 watts, 150 W, 1200 W or 1800 W.
because it's need for all tastes.
Ok, thanks, but bitbattery needs low cut off at say 11 volt so I need to think this booster is needed for our emergency lights which we have planned to produce more in qty
dont forget the essential. Booster are used to convert a low voltage to an higher voltage, for any use you want. Charging batterys, light, amplifier, motors, ever you want. Thanks for your interest.
Sir! Can i use White (250 watt one) to charge my 24 volt battery pack from 12 volt power supply? (Which is a pc power supply unit)
yes you can. Be carefull with the output current, and voltage. You can use a low resistor and diode for safe.
Alexander Hartdegen thanks a lot for your reply sir!
Very nice video. Thanks. I have a 48v battery bank. Would like to know if i can use this boy to increase the output voltage to something about 90v? That way i can use my nobreak as inverter. Thanks buddy and keep up the good work.
there is two models of the big one. The previous model is 1200W and gives 80V. But the new model about 1500W reach 86V. To reach 90v would be more difficult but if you can have enough of 86 you can buy the 1500w model
Thoes 1200 watt boost converters are going for 11$ now on eBay, I'm guessing its because of the coronavirus but I just bought 2 more
no, it's because they became old model, there is 1500W model since long time now.
@@AIexanderHartdegen still cheaper than normal, they have been going for around 15-17 now they are going for 11-13, i have the 1500 as well with the fan and for what I'm using it for they will only ever use 500 watts at most at 66volts so the 1200 are a steal compared to all of the lower wattage ones.
Hey got a quick question I think you can help me with. With the white boost converter (with the aluminum bottom), do you think it can handle a 6s battery 22.2 volts, boosted to 31-33v 3 amps max? What do you think?
Yes, I think it can perfectly do the job.
Thanks!!! I have 4 or 5 of these and I never really tested them. Got a project I’m working on and this is a key component. Thanks for the quick reply!!!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
they are good stuff, that's nice to have them on the bench. Thanks for your comments.
Hey i like both of your Channels!
For The white one 250 watts when I connect 12 volt battery it short circuits. Can you please tell what might be happening.... Have 2 of these both doing the same
first connect the booster, after the booster is on, connect the load.
Be carreful, if the load is to strong, it can destroy the main MOSFET transistor. Those white boost converter are made for working without load until 35V (use for power LED). For that reason, you need to take time to let them switch on, and after, connect it to the load. If they are shorted without load, main MOSFET is dead, need to change it. Also, check output and input diod.
@@AIexanderHartdegen thanks
cracked a small ceramic capacitor in front of the output terminals. Located between two electrolytes 100v 470 mF and output connector. Please tell me his number
@Maier Maier
Hello, you don't really need this ceramic capacitor. It's an capacitor between 10 and 100 nf (I think it's 4,7nF) used here to filter output in the range of high frequency output, helping the chimical capacitor by having a different behavior with high frequency. You don't really need it but if you want to replace it simply by another ceramic capacitor of 4,7nf...100nf.
@@AIexanderHartdegen Thank you, you are a true friend (I found a scheme yadi.sk/d/LzwH7k0so8pmZA ) 👍
Nise boost converter
thanks glad you like it.
Can i use the second one on 02:54 to connect with 12V 70A car battery?
I want to increase the voltage, because I want to make a 200 Watts power amplifier in my car, i need 20V and 10A current..
Thanks for the answer..nice video and very inspiring..
I think it will work. But for your use, it will be better to use two converter, connected in parralel with connecting a low resistor value output for each (0,2 0,1 ohm).
Dont forget there is a new version of it, slightly more powerfull, of the same booster. I advice to you to use the 3:40 version.
Got one more quick question...LOL. I need a PWM controller to control the power of a glow plug. I read somewhere that the White Boost converter uses a TL494 pwm chip. Do you think using the current side, I could control the temperature with this? I have a project coming up and I just need something simple to control the power. What do you think?
Maybe you are talking about a glow plug coming from a diesel car engine. Those plug, if that's you're talking about, use a high current to heat, mostly when they are cold. A single plug can pull between 15 and 20 amps when it's brandnew. But you want to control the temperature.
I think those device are not suitable for to drive a load with an impedance of 0,5 ohms... Because this is simply a short circuit for them, and the raise of voltage across so little impedance is nearly impossible from a device like that. If you really want a temperature control, you need also a temperature probe for a feedback control... It is possible to manage to fix a thermocouple on the heating element of this glow plug?
The other solution is to connect basically the plug to the power manager, and see how it's heat. Until it rise the desired temperature, the power need to be switched of. And reconnected when the temperature failed to much. The frequency of switching/unswitching need to be considered, and a on/off circuit of the same frequency need to be build, with a relay of power mosfet transistor.
The TL494 can be use for to control temperature, but you need a feedback control.When plug are connected they pull more than 10 amps and they stay cold... If you intend to feed your plug with a high voltage decreased with this kind of boost module, you need to know than "boost" are not " buck", also they are not able to deliverate low voltage from a high voltage. On a car, plug are connected to the main by a simple power relay.
If you want to "control the temperature", a feedback is need. Thant's mean you need to add a sensor on the glow plug tip. And this, after the question of the power supply able to feed such devices will be settled.
The problem is not the power, the problem is to rise from a short circuit to the voltage required to maintain the plug hot. The most simple way is the adjustable flickering relay (mecanic or electronic), with temperature adjustement before will be approved.
Alexander Hartdegen most important f the chatter claims, the only way to control them is with a pwm of some sort without a temp return. The resistance is enough to pull around 8 amps from a 12v source. I forgot these boost converters don’t like resistive loads. I actually built a pwm with a temperature return from a lm358 and z44.(video is call 907f mini soldering iron), that may work for this. I also have some 10k 5% glass thermistor.(same ones use with the hakko soldering irons). Maybe I can figure something out with this??? Thanks for the details and heads up!!!!
In the hakko iron they use type K thermocouple or a PTC sensor of something like 1 kilohom maximum. Probably the thermistor you're talking about comes from the pcb of this hakko iron? Temperature probe for high value are special, you can not use a one intented for a pcb.
You really need a termocouple and a v/V converter, like a op amp. I think 358 can do the job (I think but need to be tested). For this, you dont need a 394 but simply a first amplification and a new op amp for switching from a reference source.
I think the mostly serious work here is to fix a thermocouple on the plug.
But, also, you can use a plug just with a continue flickering power supply, regulating simply the heat by this way, very easely. Some people use this technic with soldering cartridge.
@@AIexanderHartdegen You are correct! The cicuit board I made is actually for the 907F hakko or fake soldering iron that uses the thermistor. But with a little tweaking, I can use a thermocouple. The cuiruit uses a basic lm358 PWM with sensing feedback from the resitance of the thermister. Take a peek when you get a chance. I'm thinking if i need a refrence from the glow plug, using a thermistor(may not be enough for 1000c). I may try and alter for a thermocouple. But I just found another post where the DIYer used the same lm358 system just to control the amerage going to the glow plug. I basiclly just want something to divide the heat from 1000c pus to 500c or under.
No matter, sounds like some fun testing ahead..>LOL
Can i connect parallel to get more current
Not like that. You need to add a low value resistor output for each before to connect it in parallel, something between 0,5 and few ohms. You need to make some test to found the best lower value.
Thank you so muchhh. I bought 4 pcs of type 1500w booster. I tend to boost 4 solar panel to 80V then series them upto 320-330V DC, then it could be power supply for Inverter Air conditioner! Do you think the idea is possible or not? Can it damage The whole Air Conditioner?
Each solar pannel need to be able to provide 1/4 minimum of total power of the air conditionner.
Each output converter need to be connected to a high voltage and high capacitance capacitor.
If your air conditionner need a triphase input, you need a DC/triphase converter.
If your air conditionner have electronic rectifier dimmer, you can feed it simply with the dc voltage coming from the converters.
You need a automatic switch to deconnect the air conditionner from the main before the power supply goes down, due to vanishing of the sun.
You need to analyze if your air conditionner is able to work with DC current. (if it has electronic motor driver, it must be ok)
You need to know than if your air conditionner is old, it will use a high pic of current when starting, and you need a lot of capacitors to allow it. It can works, but it need some studies and lot of test.
I want this how to buy this item I need this name of boos converter is it available Amazon website
@kerala lottry C board guessing On Amazon www.amazon.fr/s?k=boost+converter&__mk_fr_FR=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&ref=nb_sb_noss
On Aliexpress www.aliexpress.com/af/boost-converter.html?SearchText=boost+converter&d=y&initiative_id=SB_20190409085018&origin=n&catId=0&isViewCP=y&jump=afs
On Bangood www.banggood.com/search/boost-converter.html
On Ebay www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1312.R1.TR0.TRC0.A0.H0.TRS5&_nkw=boost+converter&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=brymen
merci, très instructif
@michael ferrari Merci de votre retour, malgré le fait que ça ne soit pas en Français. Merci pour votre commentaire.
Sir, awesome video. It was very educational. Can you please tell me how to change the trimmers on the first converter you featured to a linear rotary potentiometer. My converter is the 400 watt type. And it has a trimmer for CC and one for CV. My goal is to change those trimmers to the rotary potentiometers for a project I'm working on. Thank you so much. I hope you can help me. I tried many searches and have not found anything. Take care
@mario sellet
Hello, if I understand your question well, it's very easy to change the trim on your inverter. First, you need to read the value on the original trim. Also, the rotary potentiometer for supersiding the trim need to have the same value. The trim have tree point, the center is the cursor, like a rotary potentiometer, and the edge are the limit connectors, like the rotary potentiometer. So, very basiquely, just desoldering trim, soldering long wires to a potentiometer, and using the same order (the central pin on the trim is the central pin in the rotary potentiometer) It's very easy. I hope I understood your resquest well. If not, just tell me. Thanks for your comment.
Alexander Hartdegen , thanks for your insight. I understand pots need to be same value as trims to be changed. Does wire size and gauge matter? Thanks
@@milvolts1 no, wire size and gauge doesn't matter. Just need to care about wire disconnection. During process, if a wire, or cursor is disconnected, it can increase the output voltage suddenly, wich can be very dangerous for supplied device, potentiometers are not as stable as trims. Thanks for your attention.
Can i get 500 watt 48 v from 12v?
yes with the big one. There is also the new model of 1500W wich can give you more reliability.
Hi!!Thanks for the video! What model si can use if need symetrical output?
@Artur Dietrich
hello. You can not use this boost converters as it is, because they have not separate ground. For your need, you can purchage a symetrical boost converter, but it's really more expensive. If you want a very cheap mean to create a symetrical power supply from a monorail boost converter, please refer at this video on my channel to create a symetrical from a single rail: th-cam.com/video/8a-9RnGA7QM/w-d-xo.html
hi i have a 36v 370wh battery its 10a, the charger is 42v 2a i'm wanting to buy something like this to charge it from my car at 12v, think the controller on the battery can accept up to 4a whats the best one of these dc to dc to do the job do you think?
You can make it with the white model, with adusting current output max and adding a diode on output for more safe. There is new models avalaibale, with more power, 600W instead 300.
@@AIexanderHartdegen thankyou what diode would you use ? think ive found it 600w version has amp and volts , costs about £7 inc postage. the only thing i cant see heatsink so nowhere to add a fan if i find it gets to hot, what you think?
@@lookoutleo you can use 3 x 1N4007 in parralel. This booster is built on aluminium plate, wich hold all power transistors. You can stuck it by adding special compound and fix it on a heatsink. You need to be careful because using those booster on 12V force them to work hardely. When you are experimenting, you can use 12V50W car bulbe is series with the booster to prevent any damage before fixing all presets.
@@AIexanderHartdegen Thankyou for the info, is it the module with 3 capacitors on both ends? Would I have an amp meter in series to set the output current , the battery has built-in BMS so should be ok even if the current is set wrong? I'll put an 8a fuse on the 12v side to as it should draw about 6a 12v to create 2a 42v ish? Thankyou for the help. I was looking at the 20a boost modules with the digital display , they are about £15 , these seem so cheap for what they are, I already have a 150w one I use on my laptop , it's 12v to 19v Chromebook works great :)
@@lookoutleo yes. the module with 3 capacitors. Yes you need ampmeter to check the output current. But you can not have 300W from 12V. Those devices have the full power with only few volts difference between entry and output. To have the best power you can use the 20A module, it's the most powerfull and reliable module, mostly if you want charge your battery fastly.
So, I want to take the output of an 100 amp car alternator and boost it to about 42v 2000w, what would you recommend?
You can build or to make engineered the device you want. It can take time and it can cost. But you can spent some money on these bigs converters. You probably need 4, 5 or 6 of these.
You have to connect all the output adjusted at same value with low value resistor each. It can make the job.
@@AIexanderHartdegen
Low value resistor value how many ohm
@@fapalakad665 between 0.4 and 3 ohms, need to test and check if regulation works for all devices in the same time.
Can the boost converter can be contacted to a solar panel and to a motor or battery
yes
And if we need to connect to a 12 v led from 12 v battery. If we connect directly from battery to led and through a booster what difference will be
12 volts led need constant voltage to operate. After a while, when voltage would decreasing, you will have a significant plummet light.
If you use a booster you can feed you 12V led until the battery dead completely, until the minimal voltage afordable to the booster.
Without booster you will have a low effeciency light, but with no loss energy. With a booster you will have a high effeciency light but with a loss added due to the voltage/current conversion.
Hello, i've just got this dc booster. It has 3 pots, one for CC, other for CV, but the 3rd (near the input) what does it do? label is RV1 or something.
limitation current output.
@@AIexanderHartdegen limitation current output is "CC" (Current Control). The 3rd (near the input, not near the output) is to limit the minimum input voltaje. Thanx
@@rodstartube OK I didnt know thanks
Its for input undervoltage protection. If you boost up battery.
@@RadimKonecny thanks
hi ,
Does the 48 volt inverter work ?
48 volt 4 batteries required..
Can I use this device with inverter by turning 12 volts to 48 volts
If you are talking about the 1500w model yes you can do it.
@@AIexanderHartdegen thank you
Can you assign AliExpress Link?
@@suataydemir9144 250 watt
m.fr.aliexpress.com/item/4000037330204.html?pid=808_0002_0109&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.4000037330204&aff_trace_key=093e286065e34f0cbe177f0e5ff513e3-1566671079052-07768-UneMJZVf&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=3354amp-Nyn1V3ZSbWSTtwPtERk9sw1566671192378
1500w m.fr.aliexpress.com/item/33044762095.html?pid=808_0002_0109&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.33044762095&aff_trace_key=093e286065e34f0cbe177f0e5ff513e3-1566671079052-07768-UneMJZVf&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=3354amp-Nyn1V3ZSbWSTtwPtERk9sw1566671192378
@@AIexanderHartdegen thank you...
how many watt current loss on the battery 12 volt...
1500W 30A how many watts energy grout...Does 12 volt discharge the battery quickly?hopefully the correct translation has been....the subject i mean : What is the energy consumption fan and diodes ?
the power output is the same than the power input, with a little loss.
For exemple, if you are supplying a device using 100 watts with this DC/DC converter, you will have 105 watts on the battery circuit.
Yes, according to the power output you can use with this unit, this booster can be greedy of energy. And this is normal. Fan and led are not greedy of energy, and those consumption are negligeable.
Hi, i want to step up voltage of my electric scooter, it is 60v battery (30a discharge BMS), fully charged is 67v, can i step up from 67v to 77v? I read the maximum input of boost is only 60v, can it handle 67v? Thank you
This is a hard question. For to know that, you need to read the capacitor in front of the power supply section. They need to be at 67v at least. 67V here are the voltage of a non load battery, wich means than this voltage doesn't stay in the time.
You can try by connecting your battery to your booster with a 25 or 50W bulb connected in series. At first, you can see the bulb emiting a short light, and switch of. If the light is always emited (with 5/6.7 volts at it's lead) that mean than the booster is over supplyied. Anyway, take care about that but I think it will works nice. Thans for your comment.
@@AIexanderHartdegen ok tell me just one more thing, in booster i can regulate the amperage correct? Im thinking in buy the 1800w booster in aliexpress and my battery bms is 30A and my controller is 25A, so in booster i keep the booster at maximum amperage? How i regulate it?
Do you have any other way of talk with you? Thank you
@@gabrielpinheiro114 you don't have to regulate anything. This is the role of your controller, you just need to supply enough current and voltage. Just keep the current control of the booster at the maximum.
The potentiometer on the 1800 booster is a current limitation, for preventing an overload on a basic load, or an battery charging process.
@@AIexanderHartdegen so i keep the input voltage of potentiometer at maximum and also the potentiometer current at maximum? Just adjust the output to my desire voltage correct?
So does it work best with 12v?
normally no. On these kind of converter, higher is the input voltage, better is reliability and power factor.
@@AIexanderHartdegen oh ok thank you
Nombrt send kro may need converter mangwana hay
thanks