@7:20 Tangential. I just found these videos, beautiful and elegant work and designs done without going overly complex. Nicely produced in an open, friendly and inviting way. Makes me want to go out and build one myself and I don't even need a table.
I am really impressed. You are really good at what you do. It is nice to see someone that will figure out problems and fix them to make a better mouse trap without going to buy one of their own. when the plans are done, next week, I will buy them and build the table. The bottom legs are not an issue for me. I have a style I would like and would fit just great for the table. Like John Fithian-Franks said, I would love to have just a percentage of your knowledge in fixing problems you have. You are really an inspiration to fix things on my own. Thanks for the fun in watching your journey.
What about a protective metal ring (like a washer on a nut and bolt, only bigger) that the actuator brackets would slide on instead of the bare wood? Or maybe some tiny casters/rollers attached directly to brackets so the wood glides on the wheels, not the brackets?
Just a tip. Next time you want measure the current on your flame rod. have the meter in series with the ground wire. Then you wont get igniter voltage through the meter, but you will be able to check the current to ground.
RIP Fluke... Gibberish like that lends me to believe the actual main chip got toasted. The table is absolutely amazing! How does the wood on the rising level hold up at the center where it pushes against the three levers that lift the star? Would wear require periodic readjustment of the levers? Can that area be strengthened up in any way to reduce wear, or has it been a non-issue?
Dude, you are so smart! I just bought your plans last night and I am itching to get started. Since I am a big harbor freight fan I already have every tool I need to build this table. I just need the wood.
I showed someone this beautiful design and they sniped, "but it's not round in both states." * The table can only be round in 1 state--as Scott's mentioned. That's the nature or arcs and radii. An arc is "married" to exactly one radius/diameter round table. * The table is more distanced from round in one stated compare to makers like DB Fletcher because Fletcher uses more table panels to effect the same thing. * Scott's designs are pretty adjustable if you really want to tackle MORE panels--just in case creating this yourself isn't enough of a challenge....or, you can deplete your savings and buy DB Fletcher's entry level table at a $50K price. * Is round really that important? The allure of a round (or Scott's) table is that everyone can talk to everyone as equals (no head of the table.) * Fletcher choose the large size to be round, Scott the small one. Fletcher hides his small table's faceted (not round) size with an outwardly round table skirt that encapsulates his small table's deviations from roundness. That's very tricky to hand make.
Beautiful work as always Scott. Say, how many vertical pieces did you place on the outside of the skirt to facilitate its spinning? I can’t say for certain if it's 6 or 8. I ask because if wishing to hide the heads of the 4 elevator bolts that protrude from the skirt (that hold its rollers to spin and change skirt height) I’d guess we need some multiple of 4 of these vertical pieces. Thanks.
Like someone else said, you need mostly blue flame in the furnace to make it more efficient. Most likely the burner's holes are clogged from rust. Or it's not getting enough air
I wanted to ask if you've considered adding some PTFE pads or something to the moving parts so that they glide a little more smoothly and removes some of the wood on wood friction. In particular I was thinking you could add them to the skirt because of the guaranteed wood on wood friction you get when it comes up to support the leaves.
Scott Rumschlag I haven't watched all the videos on the table so I didn't know. Also I have to say that I love the design and the work that went into it. When I make the room for a new table, I know what I'm going to have to try and make.
Fantastic table, how you managed to sort out all the problems is just amazing.what I would give to be just 10% as cleaver as you. Keep up the good work I for one love seeing your videos
So nice! Approximately how many hours would this take to build if someone followed the plans? It's clear the troubleshooting and fine-tuning took a lot of effort... but the build itself... about how long would that take? I'm thinking it would take every weekend for a month or two.
+Awesome Wood Things That's probably accurate for the mechanism and mounting the panels. Making fancy legs or top panel designs can really spin the clock too.
for that star...id have just used a wood screw/nut(low tpi), then the turning motion would have just cranked the screw up n down. i do the same thing with a woodscrew for a vice mechanism, only diff in your case is its vertical. theres no max dia. of a wood screw either so the whole center cavity could be the screw, solve that stability problem
Is there a way to lock down the mechanisms while it is in both orientations? I'm just picturing it in day to day use and think that kids messing around, regular bumping of the table or someone tripping and catching themselves on the table could cause it to rotate when u don't want it to, potentially damaging the inner workings. If there was some kind of lock that kept the top from turning while the ring was in the raised position I think it would solve those issues.
The skirt's friction in the raised position does a pretty good job of keeping it still. For a more mechanical solution you could add pieces that would "catch" the skirt as it tried to expand when rotated at an inopportune time.
Could you still use a taper on the top of that ring to draw the table in tight for both forms? Any plans on making one that has a bigger opening ratio? Some nice star veneering would go a long way with the transformation sequence :o Cool vid
+Russell Kopp Those are (in my experience) referring to the ghosting issue which I already fixed on this unit. I'm afraid this is not practical to repair. I'll look into the EEV blog recommendation from aserta though.
+B. Winky Not yet, however I would like to build a fresh table from scratch (maybe next year . . .) which wouldn't have any "legacy" issues and in that cases aesthetics like the legs would be a much higher priority.
anytime you need vertical lift from horizontal rotation. or vice versa....think of a screw. its not just a fastener. it can be used to guide objects on a track with precision through rotation around the axis of the screw causing linear motion in a direction perpendicular to the plane of rotation. dont reinvent the wheel guy ;)
easiest way is to use a jig and your router, second way is with a tap n die for wood threads. 3rd way is a lathe. i recommend either the jig n router or lathe method for a screw more than 2inches in diameter. th-cam.com/video/WhOdrlGie68/w-d-xo.html Jig and router method th-cam.com/video/mTnVDl6Y6u4/w-d-xo.html Home Made Tap n Die method(traditional non power method) th-cam.com/video/y49v5Isdkjg/w-d-xo.html Lathe Method
the lathe method would probably produce the best large screws of the diameter you need though. just remember you need to make a nut for the screw too. or some other means of following the threads like a nut would, tongue n groove should work if threads are wide enough, or use it as a track for your bearings(put 4 rollers on the x/y axis of the second layers center cavity, as it spins it will lift the screw, no nut needed that way). just remember how many turns you need to fully expand the table and lock it in to get your tpi count across a 2-3 layer lift.
oh and for the tap n die, if its 2inches or less, you can save yourself some trouble and buy pre-made woodthread tap n dies for about $30-$50 as a set from Sears.com or the like
now that i think about it, your jig for rounding the dropping skirt....could be adapted to cut wood threads as well if you flip the router 90deg, and add a height adjustment with a piece of all-thread so the head can drop down as it rotates.. that jig could let you cut a screw pattern inside the diameter of the skirt, or cut screws up to the diameter of the table itself with a few adjustments to how you mount the router. let the jig rotate around a piece of all-thread at the center pivot, as it rotates it will drop down, flip the router on its side. and there you go....wood screws of any size. you might want a wood gear or pantograph setup to give you a ratio step up or step down on the TPI count(youtube mathias wendell for gear/pantograph help)
+Adam R It's pretty sturdy, the skirt fits snugly underneath (as you can hear) and this was by design, to help support it evenly everywhere. It's set up to have double rollers on the skirt if you want, to distribute the load.
EevBlog, get an account on their forum and post your plight. I'm sure that you'll get a fix with a few good pictures and a detailed explanation supplied. Oh and, for the three aluminium/aluminum petals, why not put ball rollers on top? Here's an example, www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_8022.jpg Something akin to this should cut friction considerably.
+aserta Too much depth, in the area immediately around the center there is not an 1/8" to spare vertically, most moving parts are closer than that in fact. One example: th-cam.com/video/WkjVAvoTwUo/w-d-xo.htmlm52s
On your Fluke meter try here: www.fluke.com/fluke/inen/support/replacementparts/ Ask if they offer a flat rate repair for your meter. I was able to find service pdf on google search. (I have same meter.) Best of luck.
Looking at service manual looks like you probably fried U4 main chip. Fluke part 921606. But even if you can get it at fair price, you will still need to have someone with SMD experience replace it. Think maybe flat rate repair or main board swap is likely your best bet.
@7:20 Tangential. I just found these videos, beautiful and elegant work and designs done without going overly complex. Nicely produced in an open, friendly and inviting way. Makes me want to go out and build one myself and I don't even need a table.
I am really impressed. You are really good at what you do. It is nice to see someone that will figure out problems and fix them to make a better mouse trap without going to buy one of their own.
when the plans are done, next week, I will buy them and build the table. The bottom legs are not an issue for me. I have a style I would like and would fit just great for the table. Like John Fithian-Franks said, I would love to have just a percentage of your knowledge in fixing problems you have. You are really an inspiration to fix things on my own. Thanks for the fun in watching your journey.
What about a protective metal ring (like a washer on a nut and bolt, only bigger) that the actuator brackets would slide on instead of the bare wood? Or maybe some tiny casters/rollers attached directly to brackets so the wood glides on the wheels, not the brackets?
5 years...holds up. This is amazing! Well done. :)
Good job ! Géniale ! Superbe table ! Congratulations from France.
que trabajo por Dios, felicitaciones por la calidad y la dedicacion
quedo expectacular.
saludos desde Argentina
Just a tip. Next time you want measure the current on your flame rod. have the meter in series with the ground wire. Then you wont get igniter voltage through the meter, but you will be able to check the current to ground.
RIP Fluke... Gibberish like that lends me to believe the actual main chip got toasted.
The table is absolutely amazing! How does the wood on the rising level hold up at the center where it pushes against the three levers that lift the star? Would wear require periodic readjustment of the levers? Can that area be strengthened up in any way to reduce wear, or has it been a non-issue?
Really interesting project. I have enjoyed following along.
Dude, you are so smart! I just bought your plans last night and I am itching to get started. Since I am a big harbor freight fan I already have every tool I need to build this table. I just need the wood.
+gary5209 Thank you and good luck!
I showed someone this beautiful design and they sniped, "but it's not round in both states."
* The table can only be round in 1 state--as Scott's mentioned. That's the nature or arcs and radii. An arc is "married" to exactly one radius/diameter round table.
* The table is more distanced from round in one stated compare to makers like DB Fletcher because Fletcher uses more table panels to effect the same thing.
* Scott's designs are pretty adjustable if you really want to tackle MORE panels--just in case creating this yourself isn't enough of a challenge....or, you can deplete your savings and buy DB Fletcher's entry level table at a $50K price.
* Is round really that important? The allure of a round (or Scott's) table is that everyone can talk to everyone as equals (no head of the table.)
* Fletcher choose the large size to be round, Scott the small one. Fletcher hides his small table's faceted (not round) size with an outwardly round table skirt that encapsulates his small table's deviations from roundness. That's very tricky to hand make.
I have no clue how you did that ,awesome.
Thanks for the demonstration, you are realy ingenious worker. Salutation from Swiss
Beautiful work as always Scott. Say, how many vertical pieces did you place on the outside of the skirt to facilitate its spinning? I can’t say for certain if it's 6 or 8. I ask because if wishing to hide the heads of the 4 elevator bolts that protrude from the skirt (that hold its rollers to spin and change skirt height) I’d guess we need some multiple of 4 of these vertical pieces. Thanks.
+Russell Kopp 8 on mine, though the number could be almost anything.
Felicidades amigo Excelente trabajo, Maestro de Maestros, Te envio un cordial saludo desde Mexico
Like someone else said, you need mostly blue flame in the furnace to make it more efficient. Most likely the burner's holes are clogged from rust. Or it's not getting enough air
fantastic job. Love the explaining and approach to building it. will be buying the plans and trying meself.
I wanted to ask if you've considered adding some PTFE pads or something to the moving parts so that they glide a little more smoothly and removes some of the wood on wood friction.
In particular I was thinking you could add them to the skirt because of the guaranteed wood on wood friction you get when it comes up to support the leaves.
+NerdyPi I use UHMW tape (same thing, basically) on the slides and other places, would probably make sense on the skirt as well.
Scott Rumschlag I haven't watched all the videos on the table so I didn't know.
Also I have to say that I love the design and the work that went into it. When I make the room for a new table, I know what I'm going to have to try and make.
Any plans on making 6 panels instead of 4, I see in the "Fletcher Kaplan" tables they have 6 panels which make their tables much rounder.
Fantastic table, how you managed to sort out all the problems is just amazing.what I would give to be just 10% as cleaver as you. Keep up the good work I for one love seeing your videos
So nice! Approximately how many hours would this take to build if someone followed the plans? It's clear the troubleshooting and fine-tuning took a lot of effort... but the build itself... about how long would that take? I'm thinking it would take every weekend for a month or two.
+Awesome Wood Things That's probably accurate for the mechanism and mounting the panels. Making fancy legs or top panel designs can really spin the clock too.
Cool... thanks for the feedback.
That is beyond badass...im at a loss for words. Good job
for that star...id have just used a wood screw/nut(low tpi), then the turning motion would have just cranked the screw up n down. i do the same thing with a woodscrew for a vice mechanism, only diff in your case is its vertical. theres no max dia. of a wood screw either so the whole center cavity could be the screw, solve that stability problem
Is there a way to lock down the mechanisms while it is in both orientations?
I'm just picturing it in day to day use and think that kids messing around, regular bumping of the table or someone tripping and catching themselves on the table could cause it to rotate when u don't want it to, potentially damaging the inner workings. If there was some kind of lock that kept the top from turning while the ring was in the raised position I think it would solve those issues.
The skirt's friction in the raised position does a pretty good job of keeping it still. For a more mechanical solution you could add pieces that would "catch" the skirt as it tried to expand when rotated at an inopportune time.
for those metal pieces under the star that lift the star use felt on it to prevent the scraping
Are you going to re-do the table legs? That would make it look a lot better.
Customer's have built some nice legs on their tables, see my site. Mine was more focused on the mechanism.
is that design part of patent ?
if someone makes it and sell it to people, does it means infringe on patent right?
Hola amigo muy buen trabajo y quedó muy bien felicidades y gracias por compartir saludos desde Morelia Mich México
Thanks and hello from the US.
Scott - Do you now (30 Dec 2017) see the need for any more modifications to the table?
There are always small things to improve but the main strategy is unchanged.
Could you still use a taper on the top of that ring to draw the table in tight for both forms?
Any plans on making one that has a bigger opening ratio?
Some nice star veneering would go a long way with the transformation sequence :o
Cool vid
I love this.
Gerar, super, hiper
Congratulation
Oh Scott...some good stuff on TH-cam regarding how to fix the Fluke 87's (i.e. the multimeter's) display. Maybe you've seen; hope it helps.
+Russell Kopp Those are (in my experience) referring to the ghosting issue which I already fixed on this unit. I'm afraid this is not practical to repair. I'll look into the EEV blog recommendation from aserta though.
+Scott Rumschlag Thanks. And "protrude" is a harsh word. The elevator bolts don't protrude from the table skirt. They abut it.
From the video, it seems your LCD fried in your Fluke. A repair kit costs $20 on eBay.
plastic glides?
Beautiful! You're brilliant!
I like it too much its amazing
How much does the finished table weight?
About 100 kg, more info like this on the FAQ section of my site.
how much would I have to spend in all the materials ?
I mean approximately ?
+Miguel Viera More info under the table plans section of: mechanicallumber.com/
Where can I buy a table?
Nice but it needs a coat of oil or something fam
Excelente trabajo
Will you upgrade the legs?
+B. Winky Not yet, however I would like to build a fresh table from scratch (maybe next year . . .) which wouldn't have any "legacy" issues and in that cases aesthetics like the legs would be a much higher priority.
Naow I need a titanium shield with this kinda tech, and also have it automatic so I just have to push a button.
I would appreciate if you would provide sketches with measurement
mechanicallumber.com/plans-for-sale/
anytime you need vertical lift from horizontal rotation. or vice versa....think of a screw. its not just a fastener. it can be used to guide objects on a track with precision through rotation around the axis of the screw causing linear motion in a direction perpendicular to the plane of rotation. dont reinvent the wheel guy ;)
How should I create this large precision screw in a way that can be duplicated by other people in their garage?
easiest way is to use a jig and your router, second way is with a tap n die for wood threads. 3rd way is a lathe. i recommend either the jig n router or lathe method for a screw more than 2inches in diameter.
th-cam.com/video/WhOdrlGie68/w-d-xo.html Jig and router method
th-cam.com/video/mTnVDl6Y6u4/w-d-xo.html Home Made Tap n Die method(traditional non power method)
th-cam.com/video/y49v5Isdkjg/w-d-xo.html Lathe Method
the lathe method would probably produce the best large screws of the diameter you need though. just remember you need to make a nut for the screw too. or some other means of following the threads like a nut would, tongue n groove should work if threads are wide enough, or use it as a track for your bearings(put 4 rollers on the x/y axis of the second layers center cavity, as it spins it will lift the screw, no nut needed that way). just remember how many turns you need to fully expand the table and lock it in to get your tpi count across a 2-3 layer lift.
oh and for the tap n die, if its 2inches or less, you can save yourself some trouble and buy pre-made woodthread tap n dies for about $30-$50 as a set from Sears.com or the like
now that i think about it, your jig for rounding the dropping skirt....could be adapted to cut wood threads as well if you flip the router 90deg, and add a height adjustment with a piece of all-thread so the head can drop down as it rotates.. that jig could let you cut a screw pattern inside the diameter of the skirt, or cut screws up to the diameter of the table itself with a few adjustments to how you mount the router. let the jig rotate around a piece of all-thread at the center pivot, as it rotates it will drop down, flip the router on its side. and there you go....wood screws of any size. you might want a wood gear or pantograph setup to give you a ratio step up or step down on the TPI count(youtube mathias wendell for gear/pantograph help)
How sturdy is it?
+Adam R It's pretty sturdy, the skirt fits snugly underneath (as you can hear) and this was by design, to help support it evenly everywhere. It's set up to have double rollers on the skirt if you want, to distribute the load.
perfect
EevBlog, get an account on their forum and post your plight. I'm sure that you'll get a fix with a few good pictures and a detailed explanation supplied.
Oh and, for the three aluminium/aluminum petals, why not put ball rollers on top?
Here's an example, www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_8022.jpg
Something akin to this should cut friction considerably.
+aserta I'll do that, thanks. I've watched quite a bit of his channel before, time to stop lurking and make an account!
+aserta Too much depth, in the area immediately around the center there is not an 1/8" to spare vertically, most moving parts are closer than that in fact. One example: th-cam.com/video/WkjVAvoTwUo/w-d-xo.htmlm52s
+Scott Rumschlag Why not use some Teflon moving pads or UHMW Slick Tape? Maybe even recess a ring of UHMW and the Teflon moving pads ride on that....
Muito top vou fazer uma pra mim 😃
The flames is too yellow on your heater... need to adjust the mix ...
Michael Adkins carbon buildup can cause off-colored flames, as well.
so smug at the end ;) nice work!
+P-A Larsson Thanks
Are these plans available for a Mac computer?
They're in pdf, SketchUp and DXF, all of which should be viewable on a Mac.
Thank you so much I will order after I get back from a vacation
Muito bom gostei queria fazer uma também
had je koude hande
im really interesting of this kind of tables, please answer me
regards
?
On your Fluke meter try here: www.fluke.com/fluke/inen/support/replacementparts/
Ask if they offer a flat rate repair for your meter. I was able to find service pdf on google search.
(I have same meter.) Best of luck.
Looking at service manual looks like you probably fried U4 main chip. Fluke part 921606. But even if you can get it at fair price, you will still need to have someone with SMD experience replace it. Think maybe flat rate repair or main board swap is likely your best bet.
Круто!)