Fujifilm Superia Premium 400 | The Best Film from Japan
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- From the very first time I came across Fujifilm’s Superia Premium 400 in a side street in Tokyo, I was enamoured by it. A special hidden gem exclusive to the Asian market, with beautiful vibrant colours and so much versatility!
Living in Australia - I had to search far and wide to find an importer of Superia Premium and couldn’t find anywhere that did, until I came across a vending machine (YES A VENDING MACHINE) on a recent trip to Melbourne, that sold this film!
If you want to see all the photos at a higher resolution, check out the blog post that goes along with this video: www.daniloalle...
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© Comet Brace 2019
(It may be unnatural because I used Google Translate) Hello! I'm glad that you like Japanese films. The price of this film has risen recently, hasn't it? Currently in Japan, it costs 1300 yen (15.36 Australian dollars). However, the image is good, so I use it regularly. Enjoy this film!
🥲 sadly the price just keeps climbing doesn’t it…
Only just found this film! film never die is quite a cool place, visited there once last year.
Such a fun film, have you shot it yet?
@@DaniloAllen No, only found it today so I watched your video to find out about it's characteristics! I'll have to order a roll or two :)
Definitely!!! Let me know how you go 😀
Actually CN film gets more saturated with over exposure until a certain point after they get really faded. Generally shooting at box speed will give you neutral images, a third stop gives you a bit more saturation, two thirds over will give you a nice snap, and a full stop gives you a punchy pop look. That's not for Ultramax. Ektar or Kodak Gold. Those perform best at box speed. Also you can have the sun in frame with CN film no problem.
Loving how your A roll video footage looks very film-like.
Loving the shot at 5:06!
Me too!
Informative video mate, keep up the awesome work, just leaving a comment for the algorithm, peace
thank you!
From my experience supported by what I’ve read, overexposing at least one stop will fairly reliably reduce grain and help ensure you have a proper exposure by filling in the holes of unexposed grain. Many color films have a latitude of two or three stops overexposure before looking bad because it is an additive color system, rather than subtractive, or vice versa, I always forget.
hey, what scanner do you use? the quality of the photos is great
All scanned with a Noritsu Scanner at my film lab
Not all film stocks are made to be overexposed. The pro emulsions like Portra, Fuji Pro 400H, Ektar, can (and dare I say, should) be overexposed by at least 1, but even 2 stops. Ultramax, Fuji Superia emulsions (and Gold, Kodacolor, C200), benefit more when shot +1 by having a bit less grain, but do not suffer reduced contrast or any other (d)effects. When you go +2 then you start observing some color shifts on consumer films, and for some films like C200, that makes them extremely nice looking, for others it gets a bit crazy, i.e. Gold gets such a yellow cast, that it looks like something out of 1970s. Rule of thumb, pro emulsions, great latitude, you are almost obliged to overexpose them by 1/2 stops, consumer grade, stay at box speed, or go no more than 1 stop over, unless you are after the (d)effects overexposing will produce.
If you wanna go crazy, overexpose by 2 stops, but develop for 1 stop overexposure - i.e. shoot 400 asa film at 100, but ask to be developed at 200. With Pro grade emulsions that produces amazing colors and color contrast.
P.S. Portra 800 does not lend itself to overexposure too. At +2 it starts to get weird.
Thanks for the info - I’ll be putting that into practice with my next few roles for sure!
“Obliged to overexpose them”? Uh... No. Do what works for you and gets you the look you want, but nobody else is obliged to do the same and you can’t generalize. Personally I hate the look of most films when overexposed, not to mention that it’s a nonsensical concept in many lighting conditions, such as night photography for example.
@@joeltunnah In night photography you are always overexposing. If you understand the sensitometry of film, you'll know that at some point, because of reciprocity failure, you *must* overexpose film, and you better have your calculator in advanced mode, because you are calculating logarithms.
As to the *overexpose*. You are always overexposing film. If you have one of the latest models of cameras, it's in a matrix metering mode and it *overexposes* film. If you are spot metering with a camera or a hand meter, you are again expected to meter for the shadows (the nature of film chemistry and grain), so your highlights are at least 2 stops over anyway. With even the cheaper emulsions having 5 to 7 stops of latitude, film is *always* overexposed anyway. There's the fact that film chemistry progressively looses sensitivity with time, travel, temperature, etc, so unless you take the roll from Kodak or Fuji's factory line, that box speed ASA is never what it says it is, so 1/2 a stop compensation on the box speed is a must, even slide film with 20% overexposure looks better. So yes, you are *overexposing* film anyway, mostly unknown to you. You can always underexpose it, too, if you are after the high contrast look, especially in daylight conditions and harsh light, but in most cases, and those include low light and night photography, you are overexposing, sometimes extremely (after the reciprocity failure). I would say it's simple chemistry, physics and math, but realizing my scientific background, that would be presumptuous of me, so it is not *that* simple. Again, it's always down to your own taste, but the nature of film means it is overexposed anyway, unless you are shooting all your scenes in a lightbox.
P.S. Joel, I found your Instagram and your photos are awesome and yes, it makes a lot of sense why you shoot at box speed.
Iliyan, thank you for the compliment. As I said, do what works for you. I don’t think there’s any such thing as a “correct” film exposure, unless you’re doing technical or copy work.
@@joeltunnah indeed, you're spot on. My initial comment on "overexposure" was meant in similar fashion and in the context of people new to film. Because of variation (in emulsion, metering, scene, etc) a stop or two of overexposure would be better because you are compensating for mistakes and equipment, but if you know your craft and you already developed your visual style, you can under or overexpose to extremes.
what’s your go to filmstock? do you still vist that vending machine?
I’m still exploring different stocks - so I’m trying out different ones all the time. The vending machine’s are in Melbourne and I haven’t been able to go there since COVID started unfortunately
Which is best ..kodak or fuji ..for pro use
it depends... on so much...
Bro, why don't you just put the camera on your nose instead of zooming every second. That's really annoying!
that's a great idea! I'll give it a shot in my next video (might be a bit heavy though) 😂😂 - you're right though I think went a little overboard on this edit with the zoom cuts