Another option these days is to use a U.V. flatbed printer. Some you can drop the cab directly under the printer, others are printing a side or front section before assembly of a new cab build based on the specs of the original. If you get the chance, it's the best.
A very lightly soapy water solution sprayed to the surface prior to application of the stencil allows you to make minor adjustments more easily. Once it is in place use a rigid plastic squeegee to get all the bubbles out, and press every edge down. Some of those enamels you use make me nervous as they can take a ridiculously long time to cure out and subject to imprinting from the stencil or squeegee. A modest air compressor and a modest Sharpe spray gun will net you some fabulous results and not require wet sanding.
I use water but the soap makes me nervous but I should try it. I’ve never had much of an issue with dry times with oil paint but that might be the climate I’m in or that I tend to do multiple light coats. When I used the airless spray gun however it took about 48 hours to dry compared to way less than 24 with the foam roller.
@@VintageArcadeGal I painted professionally in a prior life. Touch of soap is fine as long as you are wiping the surfaces down with wax and grease remover between coats. There are two favors of wax and grease remover (alcohol, and traditional solvent). Alcohol is your safest bet for your selected paint technology. Lots of DIY'ers use glass cleaner. I'd say your light coats is the greatest contributor to fast dry times... but it also contributes orange peel. Yeah the airless is a whole lot like spraying with a fire hose. Beyond the orifice size you can't really moderate material deposition rates.
Howdy Vintage Arcade Gal, Howdy ya'll, I gotta say, I always look forward to watching your latest videos, you say your not an expert, however I watch and am subscribed to many Classic Arcade channels, like Todd at TNT, Arcade Hollywood, Retro Ralph, and many more, and again, I gotta say, I have learned more from watching your workshop videos, plus the knowledge you have and the way you present it regarding the history of Arcade games, is next to none, infact 2 nights ago a Friend and I, binge watched a bunch of your videos, because my Friend had never seen any of your videos before, and he said the same thing, that your knowledge of these Arcade games and how to fix and restore them is Amazing, I can tell you ,after watching some of your videos, he subscribed to your channel too, the only thing I'd like to see on your channel, is even More new videos lol although I do realize you have a busy life, keep the informative videos comes Cassandra, love your content, Thank you, Stay safe, Stay Calm and game on my Friend, Peace
Parabéns, estou aprendendo muito com seus videos, muitas informações valiosas que são difíceis de encontrar hoje em dia. Seu canal é um tesouro para os amantes dos arcades.
I tell ya you are so good for this community and just want to say thank you. I have a pac man to do and have TOG stencils and was so worried but feel a little better now
Love your content and channel. So informative. I have some questions as I make full size replicas of certain cabs but don’t use stencils. I have some projects in the works and one is a Pac man or a Ms Pac/Galaga Reunion , haven’t decided yet. But my first question is on a real Ms Pac /Galaga did they stencil the Ms Pac side and use a sticker for the Galaga side? Next , I usually laminate then use full vinyl graphics or laminate and stickers for cabs with just stickers like DK. My question is if I’m going to paint and try stenciling , what type of wood are most cabs that used stenciling made of ? I normally use mdf but I feel like it’s not the best “painting wood” like maybe a birch would be? I want to try stenciling if I do a Pac man cab or if the Ms Pac Galaga side is stenciled but still very nervous. Lastly , where can I get a stencil for these cabs ?
Only the original 80's Bally-MIdway versions of Pac games used stencils (with a few exceptions), I am pretty sure all the Namco issues anniversary games just used vinyl stickers of some kind. Galaga was just a sticker even during the original release :-D The material of the cabinet depended on the company but most modern cabinets are either plywood or MDF. Birch would be nice but might make your cabinet pretty heavy! Good luck!
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
You're a pillar to this community. Thanks for making these videos.
6:33 the cat trying to claw at qbert made me lol
Loving the new animated intro in your last two videos!
Another option these days is to use a U.V. flatbed printer. Some you can drop the cab directly under the printer, others are printing a side or front section before assembly of a new cab build based on the specs of the original. If you get the chance, it's the best.
Moon Patrol, one of all time favorite cabs!
Looks cool!
A very lightly soapy water solution sprayed to the surface prior to application of the stencil allows you to make minor adjustments more easily. Once it is in place use a rigid plastic squeegee to get all the bubbles out, and press every edge down. Some of those enamels you use make me nervous as they can take a ridiculously long time to cure out and subject to imprinting from the stencil or squeegee. A modest air compressor and a modest Sharpe spray gun will net you some fabulous results and not require wet sanding.
I use water but the soap makes me nervous but I should try it. I’ve never had much of an issue with dry times with oil paint but that might be the climate I’m in or that I tend to do multiple light coats. When I used the airless spray gun however it took about 48 hours to dry compared to way less than 24 with the foam roller.
@@VintageArcadeGal I painted professionally in a prior life. Touch of soap is fine as long as you are wiping the surfaces down with wax and grease remover between coats. There are two favors of wax and grease remover (alcohol, and traditional solvent). Alcohol is your safest bet for your selected paint technology. Lots of DIY'ers use glass cleaner. I'd say your light coats is the greatest contributor to fast dry times... but it also contributes orange peel. Yeah the airless is a whole lot like spraying with a fire hose. Beyond the orifice size you can't really moderate material deposition rates.
Howdy Vintage Arcade Gal, Howdy ya'll,
I gotta say, I always look forward to watching your latest videos, you say your not an expert, however I watch and am subscribed to many Classic Arcade channels, like Todd at TNT, Arcade Hollywood, Retro Ralph, and many more, and again, I gotta say, I have learned more from watching your workshop videos, plus the knowledge you have and the way you present it regarding the history of Arcade games, is next to none, infact 2 nights ago a Friend and I, binge watched a bunch of your videos, because my Friend had never seen any of your videos before, and he said the same thing, that your knowledge of these Arcade games and how to fix and restore them is Amazing, I can tell you ,after watching some of your videos, he subscribed to your channel too, the only thing I'd like to see on your channel, is even More new videos lol although I do realize you have a busy life, keep the informative videos comes Cassandra, love your content, Thank you,
Stay safe, Stay Calm and game on my Friend, Peace
Thanks I really appreciate that!
Wow, I wish I'd seen this 25 years ago when I started restoring arcade machines. So many mistakes. I learned a lot. Fear the latex, for sure.
Parabéns, estou aprendendo muito com seus videos, muitas informações valiosas que são difíceis de encontrar hoje em dia. Seu canal é um tesouro para os amantes dos arcades.
This is terrific information. Thanks so much for making this and all your other videos!👍👍
I tell ya you are so good for this community and just want to say thank you. I have a pac man to do and have TOG stencils and was so worried but feel a little better now
This channel was just right now in my feed! F**k this is awesome!
Yellow might appear brighter if a base of bright white or primer gray applied first for the yellow stencil
Magnifique 👍🕹️
Awesome video hun
Love your content and channel. So informative. I have some questions as I make full size replicas of certain cabs but don’t use stencils. I have some projects in the works and one is a Pac man or a Ms Pac/Galaga Reunion , haven’t decided yet. But my first question is on a real Ms Pac /Galaga did they stencil the Ms Pac side and use a sticker for the Galaga side? Next , I usually laminate then use full vinyl graphics or laminate and stickers for cabs with just stickers like DK. My question is if I’m going to paint and try stenciling , what type of wood are most cabs that used stenciling made of ? I normally use mdf but I feel like it’s not the best “painting wood” like maybe a birch would be? I want to try stenciling if I do a Pac man cab or if the Ms Pac Galaga side is stenciled but still very nervous. Lastly , where can I get a stencil for these cabs ?
Only the original 80's Bally-MIdway versions of Pac games used stencils (with a few exceptions), I am pretty sure all the Namco issues anniversary games just used vinyl stickers of some kind. Galaga was just a sticker even during the original release :-D The material of the cabinet depended on the company but most modern cabinets are either plywood or MDF. Birch would be nice but might make your cabinet pretty heavy! Good luck!
I'm here for the Buns content ;)
HA!
Making portable wwf all-star console w hand art where u women