I bought a vintage tuxedo that was made in the 1940s. It was in pristine condition only worn once before. It’s double breasted with a 4x1 buttoning stance. The lapels are in that wide 1940s style in grosgrain silk. The pants have suspender buttons. Only needed minor alterations, and I wear it with a wing collar Marcella bib shirt with gold monkey fist knot studs/cufflinks, patent leather opera pumps and a black Homburg hat when outside. Truly a vintage look you don’t see anymore at most modern black tie affairs.
Great video as always. We were already missing He Spoke Style. 😌👌 A video about dinner jackets (how to style them, the do’s and don’t, when to use them, outfit samples, etc) would be awesome.
Thanks for this. Though I may never need a tuxedo, I'm always enamoured by sartorial rules and guidelines. (And now I can be more snobbish when watching celebrity black tie events!)
Great primer! I'll mention that for a Slimer guy I always break the lapel width rule and go wider than perhaps advisable on any DB suit or my DB tux. This can work quite well if done with massive amounts of attention to all the other details, but probably isn't recommendable. I'm also a fan of even deleting the side adjusters and going well-tailored with suspenders.
Excellent informative video. I watched numerous black tie style videos before having my tuxedo made. This one lays it out beautifully. I followed all these rules. Kept it simple and classic. And I must say my tuxedo looks smashing. Another video I watched put it succinctly. When assembling a black tie outfit, do not “get creative.”
Hello! Would you please do a video on "Guide to Waistcoats"? Your Tuxedo series is incredibly helpful, and you mention waist coverings (the fabric type and that the pleats should face up) but you don't really go into the other types of 3-piece suits. A video diving into vest/waistcoats would be really so helpful. I'm getting married this fall and need this info! Thank you :-)
Thank you for all this black tie content. I've been loading up on items from le noeud papillon, and can't wait to commission a tuxedo in 90% mohair Dormeuil tonik!
Informative video! However, some important points were missing imo: 1) Fabric - worsted wool, either solid black or midnight blue 2) Deep cut evening waistcoat, or alternatively cummerbund - a must with single button tuxedo; not needed with double breasted variant. 3) Tuxedo shirt - white cotton, classic turn down soft collar, front bib with either pleated or pique / marcella, shirt studs, soft french cuffs 4) Bow tie made of the same material as lapel facing 5) Shoes - black patent leather oxfords, or patent opera pumps with a bow, or alternatively plain black leather oxfords without any ornaments, broguing, captoes etc. (must be highly polished) 6) Evening shoelaces 7) Evening silk socks
Brian, any suggestions for keeping the shirt tucked in nicely? Not only for a tuxedo, but when wearing suit pants that have side adjusters as well. Thank you! Love the channel!
@@dlk7777i sorry, I should’ve stated other than shirt stays. I have a pair of those, but I’ve only worn them once or twice. I was just wondering if there was anything else; Brian always enlightens me on stuff I’ve never thought of. Haha
One advise also given other than shirt stays is to have a good fitting shirt, tailored preferably. Shirt stays bother me though especially when you have to take a quick dump lol.
@@vinnieaguirre377 sometimes the french fly button hole (on trousers) lines up with the last button on your shirt which I use to use to align my gig line when I was in the Military; also you can use a safety pin but be careful!
I have a pair of double-striped trousers (no belt loops) with pleats, shawl collar jacket, pleated french cuffs, shirt, wingtip, fly covering the buttons! And to my shame a polyester bow tie, a black and a white! And two waist coats, 1 black and 1 white! two pairs of Oxford shoes - black capped and whole cut Patent leather. Would these be OK for a formal event?
Fantastic video Brain, quick and to the point. Just a quick question, what‘s your opinion on tuxedo pant pockets? Some people say they should not have pocket in order to keep it simple.
Thank you for the primer! I understand that for such a short primer shoes and shirts could not be discussed, however, I missed some remarks about the use of a cummerbund of even a waistcoat as they form an ensemble with the tuxedo. At one point in this primer, you yourself use a cummerbund. Thus my question, are they totally outdated, or are the restricted to one type of tuxedo, e. g. single breasted, one button with shawl lapel?
Thanks for the comment and kind words. Please consult this playlist and make sure to subscribe as I’ll be releasing even more wedding specific videos soon: th-cam.com/play/PL3v2lRj6jZMedwQU6xqnP8Jl_BFxTAbW1.html
Hey I really hope you can help answer my question, but.. I'm getting married soon and am a bit on the shorter side. Will a black cummerbund look good on me on someone who is 5 foot 5?
While “bigger” guys do look rather silly in jackets with “skinny” lapels, a man with a thin frame won’t necessarily look bad in a jacket with wider lapels. Fred Astaire, who was very skinny, always wore his coats with wide lapels. Question: where would you recommend buying proper shoes to be worn with black tie? American classic shoe market is now extremely narrow. I can only think of Allen Edmonds and Alden, with Allen Edmonds doing something very strange (their 100th anniversary brochure made me cringe with its pretentiousness), and Alden is very expensive. Besides, neither of these companies is actually famous for making tuxedo shoes. So, I assume, English brands are the only ones left, but, alas, even in New York City there are very few stores representing traditional English shoe brands, and those are also very expensive. What’s left is the cheap “patent leather” stuff that’s just plastic. Another issue for me, personally, is that most dress oxfords aren’t comfortable. I have high instep and find it difficult to wear oxfords. I know that plain toe derby on an elegant last is an acceptable shoe for black tie, but is rather difficult to come across. Overall, it seems, modern dress shoes are much more stiff and heavy than the vintage shoes I’ve tried. I once found a pair of vintage dress derbies by Brooks Brothers (Peal and co) and they were exceptionally light and soft. Unfortunately, the size was too small and I had to return them. They were very similar to a pair of plain toe derbies I’ve owned for decades (literally). It’s a pair of “Alfani” made-in-Italy shoes, probably made in the 90’s or maybe very early 2000’s. These are my most comfortable dress shoes. Unfortunately they’re falling apart and soon will be unwearable. But I haven’t been able to find anything similar on the market. The style doesn’t exist anymore. Thanks as always for a wonderful video! Yours is one of the best channels.
I've got a cummerbund for my tuxedo and I am not quite shure whether I can wear my suspenders as well. Can anyone tell me if I am "allowed" to wear both of it at the same time?
What if I reverse the colors of my tuxedo? jacket, dress pants, waistcoat, and bowtie all in ivory color matched with inner pleated shirt, pocket square, and patented leather shoes all in black. of course I will wear this at a formal lunch party instead of dinner.
Great content! May I ask, couldn’t you have a fine ribbed grosgrain on a shawl lapel? I’ve seen some tailors make it with faille, but wanted to get your thoughts! Also for bespoke tuxedo trousers, would you still recommend side adjusters if one is using suspenders? Cheers!
I have a simple question. On peak lapels there is a button hole for the boutonniere however on a shawl collar obviously there isn't any. Does it mean that on a shawl collar tuxedo its not proper weart a boutonniere?
@@hespokestyle I got a tip from someone that if it's a quality tuxedo it has 2 loops sewn behind the lapel. Bingo.. That's where I can attach the flower without destroying the lapel. I find a shawl lapel with a buttonhole is ugly as it ruins the continuation and therefore you cannot opt to wear without a boutonniere. This way I have both options.
@@viclucyzia cool. Glad you have a solution. But tell Ralph Lauren and Tom Ford what you think about a shawl with a button hole. They do it all the time.
@@KRW628 I was very pleased to learn that you chose the midnight blue suit. I am sure you are the epitome of elegance when you are wearing it. Will you be going formal for the holidays? Best wishes
When you are short, a double-breasted jacket doesn't look very good. The double-breasted version is also warmer and can't be worn open as the two fronts would "fly". It also shows less shirt and looks cropped. A flap pocket with sateen flaps can be nice, but in general, flaps are indeed to be avoided.
Just gotta slide it in there that the only respectable style of vent is no vent and a bother lapel is not accepted. The whole idea of black tie is the rules and that you shouldn’t experiment. Just throwing it out there as a tip.
Shop custom tuxedos and formalwear: hespokestyle.com/product-category/clothing/custom-tuxedos/
I bought a vintage tuxedo that was made in the 1940s. It was in pristine condition only worn once before. It’s double breasted with a 4x1 buttoning stance. The lapels are in that wide 1940s style in grosgrain silk. The pants have suspender buttons. Only needed minor alterations, and I wear it with a wing collar Marcella bib shirt with gold monkey fist knot studs/cufflinks, patent leather opera pumps and a black Homburg hat when outside. Truly a vintage look you don’t see anymore at most modern black tie affairs.
Great video as always.
We were already missing He Spoke Style. 😌👌
A video about dinner jackets (how to style them, the do’s and don’t, when to use them, outfit samples, etc) would be awesome.
Many thanks, Gerberth!
i've been looking at suit/tuxedo tips and tricks for the past 3 days. This came in just in time.
Thanks for this. Though I may never need a tuxedo, I'm always enamoured by sartorial rules and guidelines. (And now I can be more snobbish when watching celebrity black tie events!)
Haha. Cheers!
@@hespokestyle Can you please make a video about White tie dress code and i love all your videos
Great primer! I'll mention that for a Slimer guy I always break the lapel width rule and go wider than perhaps advisable on any DB suit or my DB tux. This can work quite well if done with massive amounts of attention to all the other details, but probably isn't recommendable.
I'm also a fan of even deleting the side adjusters and going well-tailored with suspenders.
Suspenders are awesome for sure!
Good video. A little surprised you didn't mention a waist covering. That's one thing I see guys omit a lot with their "tuxedos"
That's covered in a different video.
Great tips and straight to the point. Awesome and helpful vid
Always good to have a video from you, Brian. This is a good one, as usual. Thanks again.
Thanks, as always, Daniel!
Excellent informative video. I watched numerous black tie style videos before having my tuxedo made. This one lays it out beautifully. I followed all these rules. Kept it simple and classic. And I must say my tuxedo looks smashing. Another video I watched put it succinctly. When assembling a black tie outfit, do not “get creative.”
There you go! Happy to help.
Looking forward to your next video on other tuxedo details. Hope you can also cover acceptable jacket color options.
Thanks, Kev!
As always, always appreciate your immense knowledge of all menswear.
And, as always, appreciate the comment!
Hello! Would you please do a video on "Guide to Waistcoats"? Your Tuxedo series is incredibly helpful, and you mention waist coverings (the fabric type and that the pleats should face up) but you don't really go into the other types of 3-piece suits. A video diving into vest/waistcoats would be really so helpful. I'm getting married this fall and need this info! Thank you :-)
Thank you for all this black tie content. I've been loading up on items from le noeud papillon, and can't wait to commission a tuxedo in 90% mohair Dormeuil tonik!
You're very welcome. Would be honored if you'd consider ordering that tux from us!
Thanks, this is going to help me for my upcoming wedding.
So glad to hear that!
Very well explained. I'm looking forward to part two of this video
Sweet! Thank you.
Very good tutorial. I would be coutious with vents in the back.
Informative video!
However, some important points were missing imo:
1) Fabric - worsted wool, either solid black or midnight blue
2) Deep cut evening waistcoat, or alternatively cummerbund - a must with single button tuxedo; not needed with double breasted variant.
3) Tuxedo shirt - white cotton, classic turn down soft collar, front bib with either pleated or pique / marcella, shirt studs, soft french cuffs
4) Bow tie made of the same material as lapel facing
5) Shoes - black patent leather oxfords, or patent opera pumps with a bow, or alternatively plain black leather oxfords without any ornaments, broguing, captoes etc. (must be highly polished)
6) Evening shoelaces
7) Evening silk socks
This is great information to know. We're in Prom and wedding season
Cheers.
That feeling when I've ordered a tax 3 weeks ago for my daughter wedding and I'm fully in line with your advice's.
Awesome!
would love a video about tuxedo footwear
Patent leather shoes, nothing else.
Great. Just what I was after. Now I can go buy my Tux. Thank you. Bow tie size? Is my only concern ?
Dropped in to say you sounded great in Symbol of Strength performance!
I tried to find a travel suitcase packing guide by you. I could not find any. Now would be a good time to make one if you dont mind too much.
Very helpful video. Thanks!
Exactly what i wanted to know! Nice edit, u got a new follower 🤝🏾
I wonder from where all the rules about tuxedos are coming from.
History of the wearer
Pretentious pricks with office jobs that add nothing to humanity
Thank you Brian.
You bet!
Brian, any suggestions for keeping the shirt tucked in nicely? Not only for a tuxedo, but when wearing suit pants that have side adjusters as well. Thank you! Love the channel!
Get shirt stays. They are a life changer.
@@dlk7777i sorry, I should’ve stated other than shirt stays. I have a pair of those, but I’ve only worn them once or twice. I was just wondering if there was anything else; Brian always enlightens me on stuff I’ve never thought of. Haha
One advise also given other than shirt stays is to have a good fitting shirt, tailored preferably. Shirt stays bother me though especially when you have to take a quick dump lol.
@@6kevsd9 I actually wear Michael Andrews shirts that Brian promotes on the channel. I have 6 of them, and they fit amazingly well! Worth every penny.
@@vinnieaguirre377 sometimes the french fly button hole (on trousers) lines up with the last button on your shirt which I use to use to align my gig line when I was in the Military; also you can use a safety pin but be careful!
Fantastic and Very Informative Quality Video Really.
Many thanks.
Very Informative Video.Thank You!
Thank you!
I have a pair of double-striped trousers (no belt loops) with pleats, shawl collar jacket, pleated french cuffs, shirt, wingtip, fly covering the buttons! And to my shame a polyester bow tie, a black and a white! And two waist coats, 1 black and 1 white! two pairs of Oxford shoes - black capped and whole cut Patent leather.
Would these be OK for a formal event?
It helps me alot , thanks❤
Fantastic video Brain, quick and to the point. Just a quick question, what‘s your opinion on tuxedo pant pockets? Some people say they should not have pocket in order to keep it simple.
They should have pockets.
in reality the classic revers aren't true, but you said true , there aren't enough formal
What a great video. Thx👍
Thanks so much!
Traditionally, should you have pleats on a tuxedo pants or just flat? Thank you
This, dear people is a good vid. Sensible and on the money...
Very helpful, thank you!
Great video, very informative !! Also would it be wrong to wear tuxedo with a tie and/or brown shoes?
Thank you for the information.
I have a question about vent. The ORIGINAL tuxedo should have vent or not? Thank you.
No vent
Thank you for the primer! I understand that for such a short primer shoes and shirts could not be discussed, however, I missed some remarks about the use of a cummerbund of even a waistcoat as they form an ensemble with the tuxedo. At one point in this primer, you yourself use a cummerbund. Thus my question, are they totally outdated, or are the restricted to one type of tuxedo, e. g. single breasted, one button with shawl lapel?
Thanks for the comment and kind words. Please consult this playlist and make sure to subscribe as I’ll be releasing even more wedding specific videos soon: th-cam.com/play/PL3v2lRj6jZMedwQU6xqnP8Jl_BFxTAbW1.html
Hey Brian, should the chest pocket be the same fabric as the lapel?
Yessir
I noticed your tuxedo chest pockets don’t match the lapel fabric. Is this just personal preference? Is this a more modern look?
I can't afford to get these details right!
No, seriously, I don't have the money!
All jokes aside, amazing video. Thank you for setting it right.
i can relate, but if you scour thrift stores and ebay you can hopefully find a well fitting tux
This was great!
Hey I really hope you can help answer my question, but..
I'm getting married soon and am a bit on the shorter side. Will a black cummerbund look good on me on someone who is 5 foot 5?
What fabric goes best with velvet lapels?
Personally I like satin
While “bigger” guys do look rather silly in jackets with “skinny” lapels, a man with a thin frame won’t necessarily look bad in a jacket with wider lapels. Fred Astaire, who was very skinny, always wore his coats with wide lapels.
Question: where would you recommend buying proper shoes to be worn with black tie? American classic shoe market is now extremely narrow. I can only think of Allen Edmonds and Alden, with Allen Edmonds doing something very strange (their 100th anniversary brochure made me cringe with its pretentiousness), and Alden is very expensive. Besides, neither of these companies is actually famous for making tuxedo shoes. So, I assume, English brands are the only ones left, but, alas, even in New York City there are very few stores representing traditional English shoe brands, and those are also very expensive. What’s left is the cheap “patent leather” stuff that’s just plastic.
Another issue for me, personally, is that most dress oxfords aren’t comfortable. I have high instep and find it difficult to wear oxfords. I know that plain toe derby on an elegant last is an acceptable shoe for black tie, but is rather difficult to come across. Overall, it seems, modern dress shoes are much more stiff and heavy than the vintage shoes I’ve tried. I once found a pair of vintage dress derbies by Brooks Brothers (Peal and co) and they were exceptionally light and soft. Unfortunately, the size was too small and I had to return them. They were very similar to a pair of plain toe derbies I’ve owned for decades (literally). It’s a pair of “Alfani” made-in-Italy shoes, probably made in the 90’s or maybe very early 2000’s. These are my most comfortable dress shoes. Unfortunately they’re falling apart and soon will be unwearable. But I haven’t been able to find anything similar on the market. The style doesn’t exist anymore.
Thanks as always for a wonderful video! Yours is one of the best channels.
Great video but what about a cummberband and silk socks?
Yes. Your waist should always be covered with a cummerbund or waistcoat. And silk socks are a must.
I've got a cummerbund for my tuxedo and I am not quite shure whether I can wear my suspenders as well. Can anyone tell me if I am "allowed" to wear both of it at the same time?
Yes, you can and SHOULD wear both. A cummerbund is not a belt and it serves a different purpose than suspenders.
Can we put on a tie going with Tuxedo?
That's really helpful thx!
Can the Tuxedo pants have a single forward pleat or do you recommend the pants having no pleat?
I love a single pleat. All my trousers have one. Though not a forward pleat.
@@hespokestyle you are 100% correct. I was mistaken in that a single reverse pleat, or standard pleat is acceptable, correct? (NOT FORWARD! 😱)
What if I reverse the colors of my tuxedo? jacket, dress pants, waistcoat, and bowtie all in ivory color matched with inner pleated shirt, pocket square, and patented leather shoes all in black.
of course I will wear this at a formal lunch party instead of dinner.
Hey, can I wear black linen tuxedo trousers to a linen dinner jacket?
Sure
@@hespokestyle thank you!
Great content! May I ask, couldn’t you have a fine ribbed grosgrain on a shawl lapel? I’ve seen some tailors make it with faille, but wanted to get your thoughts!
Also for bespoke tuxedo trousers, would you still recommend side adjusters if one is using suspenders?
Cheers!
Yes, definitely.
if you are going the FULL bespoke style, I would recommend skipping the waistband completely. It gives a very sleek look and wil fit you perfectly
You forgot the cuff buttons on the sleeves of jacket. It too give an elegant look
Can we go without a bow tie in black tuxedo?
Sleeve length, how far must it reach at the wrist?
Great Video
I am planning on getting a white/ivory tuxedo. I am not really sure if the lapels on the white tux be made of satin. What do you recommend??
Never
Bayer Curve
I have a simple question. On peak lapels there is a button hole for the boutonniere however on a shawl collar obviously there isn't any. Does it mean that on a shawl collar tuxedo its not proper weart a boutonniere?
There can be a button hole on a shawl collar.
@@hespokestyle I see. Mine newly bought doesn't have. So I suppose no boutonniere in this case.
@@viclucyzia You could. But you just have to decide whether you want to put a pin through your lapel.
@@hespokestyle I got a tip from someone that if it's a quality tuxedo it has 2 loops sewn behind the lapel. Bingo.. That's where I can attach the flower without destroying the lapel. I find a shawl lapel with a buttonhole is ugly as it ruins the continuation and therefore you cannot opt to wear without a boutonniere. This way I have both options.
@@viclucyzia cool. Glad you have a solution. But tell Ralph Lauren and Tom Ford what you think about a shawl with a button hole. They do it all the time.
What about shoes and shirt details ?
You forgot the shoes.....what tyoe of oxfords (captoe, whole cut, plain toe), monk strap or loafers?
I can’t see the actual difference between lapels style, maybe it’s better if you explained em on non black jacket
Looking at this for prom, can't w8 to get a white tux lmao
Are you supposed to see the vest under the Jacket?
Black or midnight blue? I'm thinking midnight.
Midnight blue is more formal than black. Every gentleman should have one in their closet. If possible, have it tailor made. Best wishes
I have a midnight blue suit. Obviously, being a Michael comes with an enlightened sense of fashion (my Gloverall Duffle arrived just today)
@@KRW628 I was very pleased to learn that you chose the midnight blue suit. I am sure you are the epitome of elegance when you are wearing it. Will you be going formal for the holidays? Best wishes
Last time I wore a Tux was at a wedding - fifteen years ago.
I do think lapel width should be proportion to shoulder width.
has anyone ever worn just the peaked lapel jacket dressed down, with the likes of denims or pants? please share insta or similar link, keen to see
Dutch:de sjaalkraag is voor obers,presentatoren,quizmasters,croupiers en musici 😮
notched is for day wear
and wrong
What about shoes mate?
Never notch for a dinner suit. It's for lounge suit's only.
What about shoes watch to wear. ????????????????
Yay
First again!😊
When you are short, a double-breasted jacket doesn't look very good. The double-breasted version is also warmer and can't be worn open as the two fronts would "fly". It also shows less shirt and looks cropped.
A flap pocket with sateen flaps can be nice, but in general, flaps are indeed to be avoided.
Just gotta slide it in there that the only respectable style of vent is no vent and a bother lapel is not accepted. The whole idea of black tie is the rules and that you shouldn’t experiment. Just throwing it out there as a tip.
HARD disagree on lapel width. Tuxedo by default ALL should have WIDE peaked lapel.
Wedding? Getting married in tuxedo is a no-go. I know that it is widely done but knotting the tie in a tux is a faux-pas of size.
The dubble vent isn’t the best choice
Historically, it’s modern and not for a tuxedo
You should have a single vent or no vent
Says you.
Every time I see someone wearing a tux with notch lapel I cringe so hard! Notch + tux as a combo should be illegal
Shawl lapel is more formal than a peek lapel
✊🏼
sorry, a notched lapel is a black business suit.
Dutch:niet en één boutonniere en één pochet.
Dat is dubbele versiering.
De pochet is geen zakdoek 😮
If you wear a pocket square, wear a tie.
Extremely dated tastes in this video
Rather poor, outdated advice. Unless you want to appear a little like a Bond villian or some chum from the 1920's, pass on lots of this advice.
🤣👎🏻👎🏻
No, there are only 2 styles of lapels
Notched. Peaked. Shawl. That’s three.