Great overview of this beautiful camera. I recently discovered the double 8 format by accident and been buying a few cine cameras because they are so cheap (nobody really wants them) and comparing viewfinders brightness and size, clarity of lens. Discovered the Bolex P1,2,3 are far superior to any of the other cine cameras for this format produced in the 60s (even the Japanese ones) I've got a P1, P2, both running and gearing up to shoot my first cine film using cheap Foma 50 B+W for testing with. These Bolex cameras are absolutely beautifully designed, attention to detail was very high.
@@csb65536 working on it, did an animation title but now looking for subject matter and proper lighting. When I was out attempting to shoot on a brilliant Sunny day in Cambridge I felt I could not stop down enough to shoot with even the smallest aperture for 100 speed film. In my anxiety and poor planning I forgot about being able to half close the shutter, so didn't end up shooting that day and didn't feel comfortable drawing attention to myself fumbling with camera. Still ready to shoot when I get the subject and myself sorted and ready.
It was brought to my attention that after shooting about 10 rolls (at the most) of film, you should take out the pressure pad and clean it, and the Film gate (instructions are in the manual), and when your not using the camera, it should be in the locked position. I would also like to say that you should always make sure the camera motor is not in the wound position when storing it.
Sorry for the very long delay in posting some of the videos I promised. I will be posting one on how to do an 8mm/super8mm camera test without film. It will cover some basics but obviously not as extensive as shooting an actual test roll and having it processed. But it will tell you if some of the basic features are at least functional. Hopefully it will be up in the next few weeks at the most.
I haven't tested the meter yet, I'm looking for a new battery kit. I was wondering, how do you use a Series VII Polarizing filter with this camera? Everything else works properly!
Leon Aguilera Radford do you have the metal lens hood? If so, that’s is actually two pieces, the filter goes in between the two. If not, I would suggest getting a 43mm to 49mm adapter and using 49mm filters, they are inexpensive, and there’re everywhere.
I just realized you were asking about a polarizing filter. The only way I know of to use a polarizing filter is to get an adapter that goes from 43mm to either 48, or 49mm so you can use a more common modern type filter.
Very cool..Thanks. Mine has a black smooth rod that fits into the handle mount. Some kind of alternative. The case has two loops for it on the left when opened. The camera will seem to lock so tight in the case it don't come out. Push the camera toward the inner rear of the case to get it out. In other words, push the bottom of the handle towards the top of the camera to help get it out. Nothing else will work.
Nick Haisch it depends on which film I’m shooting. The black and white I have Spectra Film in Hollywood (actually they can do it all) for the E6 film I use Dewaynes in Parsons, Ks. And for the color negative film (Kodak Vision 3) I have Cinelab in Boston process and scan it at the same time. My guess is that you would be safe in letting Spectra do the processing of anything you shot. I shoot in both regular/double 8mm as well as Super 8mm, but my favorite by far is the regular 8 using the P1. They really are great cameras. I would highly suggest that if your not 100% sure everything is functioning properly, send it to Bolex camera repair and have a basic CLA done on it, or at least get an expired roll of film to use as a test roll and run it through the camera and listen to see if the camera maintains the proper speed. Good luck, and have fun.
Awesome video, thanks so much. I just recently purchased an 8mm Bolex on Ebay and the first few times I used it, it ran perfectly. Now I can’t feel the motor winding and the film won’t run anymore. Maybe I’m doing something incorrectly, but could the camera be in need of a repair? Didn’t know if you’d maybe encountered a similar issue with any of yours. Thanks a lot!
Bryce Parish Is it a P1’s? And if so, is the motor wound, but the camera will not run? And did you accidentally flip the release selector (silver switch in front of the shutter angle selector? Give me a few more details if you can.
Hi there, I don’t know whether you’re still reading comments on this but just wanted to thank you for producing such an informative video! I just bought one of these cameras a couple of weeks ago and have been getting familiar with it over my first roll. The only part that doesn’t work is the light meter (I don’t have a battery for it) so in the interim I’ve just been shooting everything with the diaphragm wide open at f/1.9. Mostly I’ve been shooting interiors and on cloudy days. I haven’t yet got the first roll developed - do you think overexposure will be a significant problem in this case? Or in your experience are 8mm films shot on these cameras difficult to overexpose completely? Thanks again.
Hello Daniel, it actually depends on the films ASA/ISO you are shooting with, along with just how much ambient light each scene has. Outside, even on a cloudy day may be over exposed, and indoors even at 1.9 could very well be underexposed. If you have a still camera with a working light meter, you can use it by setting the Asa on that camera the same as the film you are shooting. Then set the shutter speed at 1/60 for 24fps, or 1/40 for 18fps. The P1’s are great cameras. Enjoy shooting. Just let me know if you have any other questions.
Michael Carter I was just basing that on the 18FPS being red on this camera. I also thought I had read it somewhere as well. But what you say makes sense because a few of my older cameras don’t have an 18fps option just a 16 then it goes to 24. Again I always welcome comments from one as knowledgeable as you. I love your videos.
Hello. Thank you for a good upload. I got this camera today from a second hand shop. It's missing the zoom extention lever, and also the winder (crank) - but the normal wind works, and the rubber eyepiece is gone too. It's the camera, the handle and the sun protector. Well...the camera is not in a very good condition, since all the buttons and so are very, very hard to move. The film mechanism seem to work. What I can hear is some sort of rattle from the silver colored part above the lens. If i turn the camera at different directions, something is "living" in there. I also do need a battery for the camera. But at this moment, I need to get in contact with any repair / service store in Sweden - or germany (or something like that). Any suggestions? Thank you once again. =)
rymdskrotet Thank you for watching. The zoom extension lever and the little reverse crank are not important at all. As for getting the camera repaired, I would recommend you do, they are great cameras. I’m not familiar with the repairs shops in Sweden, or Germany but I’m sure there are more than a few. Hopefully someone else we read this and let as know who does repairs there.
Great video! Very informative! Where do you get your film from? I've only been able to find black and white regular 8mm from Foma but I can't seem to find any other sources or any color film at all.
Wild Pikmin are you in the USA? If so, International Film Brokers (buy8mmfilm.com) has Cine X 125 B&W film for $18.00. I have had much better luck with it over the Foma film. It gives a very well balanced look and doesn’t seem to have the problems that I found with the Foma.
Hi:) I have the Bolex k1 and I have a weird red triangle shape when I look through the viewfinder? Is that the light meter tell me I'm over or under exposed? Or is it the focus?
The Rayovac 675 zinc air hearing aid battery is what I use, make sure that when you remove the tab to let it air, you let it sit for a few mins before installing it. As for the crank, it is an optional item that you would probably never use, I wouldn’t worry about not having one. As for the crack you are seeing in the viewfinder, it is supposed to be there, that is what is called a split image viewfinder. When you are focusing you line up a vertical edge. When it’s in focus, the section above, and the section below the line are in line with each other. If you download the operators manual it will explain it in more detail. The last thing I will suggest is to have the camera cleaned by a camera tech that is familiar with these cameras. bolexrepair.com in Az is the best one I know of to have the unit cleaned, lubed, and adjusted. Good luck, and happy filming!
Hi, I love your video, it's very informative! I got a Bolex P1 camera and wondering can you tell me the settings for 100 iso b&w, like 21 din and so on? Also, does the film last a 2 minutes or so? I filmed in the street a bit but it just stopped after about 10 seconds and I had to wind it up again. I'm starting out with it so I'll more than likely waist one or two rolls. Thanks again CS B! Dublin,Republic Of Ireland.
Ok, first let me say thank you. Now, on to the camera. If it is fully wound, it should run 20 to 22 seconds at 24fps, and about 30 seconds at 18fps. If it only running 10 seconds, it may just need a CLA (Clean and Lubed) or, if it was stored wound, the spring/mechanical motor may be weak. As for settings. If the meter is working you can test it’s accuracy by setting the 24fps at ASA 64 and in bright sun light point the camera at an 18% grey card and adjust the f-stop (dial at the base of the lens) until the needle is in the middle. This should be between f11 and f16. If it is slightly to the right of the center when set on F16, that’s fine. If the meter isn’t working at all, let me know, and I will give you other ways to set the f-stop.
@@csb65536 Hi again,I put in the small spacer, put in spring,then the battery.But a little black marker is pointing to the top left corner as I look through the viewfinder.I feel it is not working but film is wound halfway around the takeup spool.I have to finish the rest of the film
My shutter slider in front of the shutter selector for closed ,half open and open, that silver slider that is supposed to give you single frame, the middle position, then down for running the camera, won't fully move all the way down. One of two possible reasons my camera won't run. The other is that it's wound tight. So, trying to figure out what to do to get that slider to go to open.
Hello sir just bought this camera to test shoot some stop motion on! On thing i know about these cameras is if its been sitting for a very long time the lubrication dries up and the gears get stuck, everything seems to work properly besides my ASA knob it seems to be stuck. I took it apart and looked underneath the little light meter mortor and didnt see how i could get it off. It seems the star looking thing on top of the plastic knob needs to be unscrewed? Am i correct on this? I saw on a post that there might be something i need to unlock to move the ASA knob is thar correct? Im sorry if you abswered this in the video just didnt see you do anything like that.
Ok, I guess I may not be following you on this. On the ASA setting, you have to make sure the tam is pulled outward before you can adjust it. However, you must first establish the light meter even works. To do this, you need to put the battery in it. The hearing aid battery I mentioned in the video. If you find that the meter does not function, then the ASA setting is of no use. I recommend using a handheld meter, or a phone app and not to even worry about the ASA setting on the camera. Lastly, I would definitely recommend getting a CLA before going further. Otherwise you stand the risk of the camera freezing up.
@csb65536 the battery contacts definitely has corrosion on it but I'm trying to get into repairs and CLAing 16mm and 8mm cameras so I'll see what I can do! How can I pull out the cam for the asa exactly?
So sorry for the delay. As far as what filters to use highly depends on the Film you are using. But, as a general rule, I do like using a polarizing filter for B&W. But when using it, you must remember that the filter will change when you focus. Otherwise I would recomend any filter that will darken the sky slighty.
I have one of these. Had it for years. Suddenly the shutter release is just loose to push in and doesn't engage anything so it doesn't release the shutter and toll the camera. Any idea how I can repair this on my own?
If it’s the shutter release on the trigger handle I would try the one on the camera. If it’s the one on the camera I would try a mechanical/shutter release cable. Let me know if that does not work.
It's not the handle as that only pushes the camera shutter release so make no difference oaths problem. I will try and get hold of a cable release and see if that works and then come back to you and let you know. Thnx@@csb65536
Hi there! Inherited one of these from my mom. I can't seem to get the battery cap open. Is there a trick? I suspect it hasn't been opened in about 40 years or so, so... could just be on there pretty tight. But appreciate any advice.
I’m going to ask a silly question. Sorry for that in advance. I received this camera as a Christmas present yesterday. It was working for a second, and suddenly stopped. It’s without batteries. But it was working (I will buy batteries today) my question is. With the batteries will run again or theres a manual system or something? It’s my first reflex video camera. I have the analog cameras under control. But that one is driving me a bit crazy xD thanks for your video. Answered to me loads of questions. Kind Regards
Emerita Martinez The battery is for the light meter only. The camera runs by winding it up. So, if it’s wound up, and you push the the run button and nothing happens, it may be that the release selector is in the up, or middle position. It must be all the way down for the camera to run. The release selector is the small silver colored tab just in front of the shutter opening selector. Again, you do not need batteries for this camera to run, just wind it up. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Thank you! I will try it now. Yes. I have a other one. Sorry. I read the 25ft films can be used as 50ft film if is reversal. It does that automatically or I need to exchange the wheels positions? Affects the light same as an analog camera?
Emerita Martinez All double 8mm film comes in a 25ft roll of 16mm wide film. Your shoot the first 25ft, then you take the film out, turn it over and film the other 25ft. When the lab processes it, they splice the two sections together and it comes back to you as a 50’ roll of 8mm. You really should download the manual for this camera and go over it. It will explain a lot of the features, and how to load the camera.
Hi! I hope all is well! I’m confused about one detail. You said in the video “match the ASA to the frame rate.” Isn’t the ASA technically the “ISO”? So for example. If I shoot on 100D film. So my ASA would be 100? And if so, how would I match it to the FPS? And please excuse my ignorance!
Ok, yes the ASA and ISO are the same. However, it was referred to as ASA when this camera was manufactured. So if you look on the side of the camera that has the winder, you will also see two adjustment dials. The one on the upper left say ASA on it. If you look in the center portion of that dial you will see indicator lines with the numbers 12, 18 (18 is in red) 32 and 64. There are a few indicater lines without numbers one is between the 18 and 32, that’s the 24 indicator line. These numbers are the frame rate reference numbers. On the outer portion of that same dial you will see a series of markers with numbers next to them ranging from 5-200. These numbers are the ASA of the film you are using. You match the frame rate number to the ASA number. Say for instance you are shooting FOMA 100, and want to shoot it at 18fps. You line up the number 18 on the inter portion of the dial to the 100 on the outer portion of the dial. The other dial on that side of the camera is the frame adjustment dial. You line up the frame rate number with the dot on top of the dial. In this case you would line up the 18 with the dot. I hope this helps you understand the camera better. These are great cameras.
@@csb65536 you’re amazing you really are! God bless you mister 🙏 it makes sense now! Thank you! If I have any more questions. I’ll make sure to come to you.
I just got my camera and set everything up perfectly. I have a couple of questions I hope you can answer. 1. So I put the camera on “run” mode. I press the trigger and the camera won’t run. Unless I wind it manually. Idk if the battery’s are good. I just barely received the camera. But if the battery is good. Should the camera run without manually cranking the winder??
@@josefloresjr1968I must apologize for missing this question. The battery for the Bolex P1 is strictly for the light meter. The camera is an all mechanical camera that basically operates the same as a wind up watch. You wind the motor until you feel it wanting to stop. Then you set your desired run speed (Frames per second) and push the shutter button. If the camera is running properly, you should get around 30 seconds of run time at 18 frames per second, and 20-22 seconds when set at 24fps.
mizdrmcdooglesRBLX There are multiple places to get it processed. It depends a lot on which film you are shooting. I have used Spectra Film in Ca. for my B&W as well as color negative film. I have also used Yale Film Labs. You may also want to check out a company called “The Film Photography Project for film and processing. I just started using Cine Lab in Bedford, Ma. You do have many options.
Thank you for coming back so quick, I am interested in how the meter works is to connected to the aperture value, does the stopping of the aperture dime the viewfinder ? I have enough of 8mm cameras with non working meter, and I am not keen to use external meter if I could find one with a working one. (I carry too many things with me as is) :-)
Petko Iordanov Ok, now I understand. The meter itself is just a meter, it reads the available light based on how the frame rate is matched to your ASA setting. It has a needle that you center by adjusting the aperture manually while looking through the camera. It does not have an effect on the amount of light in the viewfinder because the aperture is post viewfinder, so the only thing that changes in the view finder is the needle position. The two best features of the meter on this camera is: One, the meter is through the lens, so as you zoom, it reads only what the lens sees,. Two, the amount of light in the viewfinder doesn’t change from f1.9 to f16. The only bad thing about the meter is, because the meter is post viewfinder, when you push the run button, the meter is no longer reading, it zeros. So you get your light reading of whatever you will be shooting then pull the trigger. If you are looking for a standard 8mm camera, you cannot go wrong with this camera. Make sure when you buy one that the battery compartment is clean, otherwise, the meter will not work at all. If all else fails, contact me and I will help you locate a functioning one.
Michael Bledstein This camera is a regular/double 8mm film camera. None of which recorded sound, at least that I ever knew. Some of the Super 8mm film cameras did. But that type of film is no longer available.
Why would Bolex and other movie cameras in the early 60s not have a sound option? When did movies in the early 60s use a sound camera made in 61? I realize the Bell and Howell camera is without sound, too.
Michael Bledstein No consumer regular 8mm camera has sound (to the best of my knowledge).The cost of that would not be affordable to the avg. consumer. They didn’t figure out an affordable way until Super 8mm was out. It’s just the way it was.
Great overview of this beautiful camera. I recently discovered the double 8 format by accident and been buying a few cine cameras because they are so cheap (nobody really wants them) and comparing viewfinders brightness and size, clarity of lens. Discovered the Bolex P1,2,3 are far superior to any of the other cine cameras for this format produced in the 60s (even the Japanese ones) I've got a P1, P2, both running and gearing up to shoot my first cine film using cheap Foma 50 B+W for testing with. These Bolex cameras are absolutely beautifully designed, attention to detail was very high.
So, have you had the chance to shoot a roll of film yet?
@@csb65536 working on it, did an animation title but now looking for subject matter and proper lighting. When I was out attempting to shoot on a brilliant Sunny day in Cambridge I felt I could not stop down enough to shoot with even the smallest aperture for 100 speed film. In my anxiety and poor planning I forgot about being able to half close the shutter, so didn't end up shooting that day and didn't feel comfortable drawing attention to myself fumbling with camera. Still ready to shoot when I get the subject and myself sorted and ready.
@@GSchmitable keep me posted.
It was brought to my attention that after shooting about 10 rolls (at the most) of film, you should take out the pressure pad and clean it, and the Film gate (instructions are in the manual), and when your not using the camera, it should be in the locked position. I would also like to say that you should always make sure the camera motor is not in the wound position when storing it.
I was just given this camera thank you very much for the information you kept it simple. And to the point (Good Job) 👍 Kevin so cal.
Thank you for the nice review! I just got a Bolex S1 …. Slightly different but close enough. Great, beautiful quality, nice looking cameras!!
I wasn’t able to do any follow ups, but I will be doing more videos on Regular 8mm in the near future mainly on Bolex cameras.
Thanks for doing this video!
Aloha Culture you are very welcome. I hope the information was useful to you.👍
Sorry for the very long delay in posting some of the videos I promised. I will be posting one on how to do an 8mm/super8mm camera test without film. It will cover some basics but obviously not as extensive as shooting an actual test roll and having it processed. But it will tell you if some of the basic features are at least functional. Hopefully it will be up in the next few weeks at the most.
thank you for this!!!
Aurora D'Errico Prat you are very welcome.
Great video - Jason
@@csb65536 got it thanks
Thanks for the video, I love this camera!
Leon Aguilera Radford Make sure you shoot with it! They are great cameras. Does your meter work on yours?
I haven't tested the meter yet, I'm looking for a new battery kit. I was wondering, how do you use a Series VII Polarizing filter with this camera? Everything else works properly!
Leon Aguilera Radford do you have the metal lens hood? If so, that’s is actually two pieces, the filter goes in between the two. If not, I would suggest getting a 43mm to 49mm adapter and using 49mm filters, they are inexpensive, and there’re everywhere.
I just realized you were asking about a polarizing filter. The only way I know of to use a polarizing filter is to get an adapter that goes from 43mm to either 48, or 49mm so you can use a more common modern type filter.
Very cool..Thanks. Mine has a black smooth rod that fits into the handle mount. Some kind of alternative. The case has two loops for it on the left when opened. The camera will seem to lock so tight in the case it don't come out. Push the camera toward the inner rear of the case to get it out. In other words, push the bottom of the handle towards the top of the camera to help get it out. Nothing else will work.
Bought a P3 model Bolex. Judging by the photos it’s in immaculate especially the lens! I’m just hoping the battery op zoom will work!
It would be nice I’m sure. But I’m sure you will still enjoy it even if you manually zoom it
@@csb65536 you can do manual zoom on this too? Sweet!
thanks for the overview! I'm looking forward to using a P1 I got from my in-laws. Where are you getting your 8mm film developed?
Nick Haisch it depends on which film I’m shooting. The black and white I have Spectra Film in Hollywood (actually they can do it all) for the E6 film I use Dewaynes in Parsons, Ks. And for the color negative film (Kodak Vision 3) I have Cinelab in Boston process and scan it at the same time. My guess is that you would be safe in letting Spectra do the processing of anything you shot. I shoot in both regular/double 8mm as well as Super 8mm, but my favorite by far is the regular 8 using the P1. They really are great cameras. I would highly suggest that if your not 100% sure everything is functioning properly, send it to Bolex camera repair and have a basic CLA done on it, or at least get an expired roll of film to use as a test roll and run it through the camera and listen to see if the camera maintains the proper speed. Good luck, and have fun.
Awesome video, thanks so much. I just recently purchased an 8mm Bolex on Ebay and the first few times I used it, it ran perfectly. Now I can’t feel the motor winding and the film won’t run anymore. Maybe I’m doing something incorrectly, but could the camera be in need of a repair? Didn’t know if you’d maybe encountered a similar issue with any of yours. Thanks a lot!
Bryce Parish Is it a P1’s? And if so, is the motor wound, but the camera will not run? And did you accidentally flip the release selector (silver switch in front of the shutter angle selector? Give me a few more details if you can.
Hi there, I don’t know whether you’re still reading comments on this but just wanted to thank you for producing such an informative video! I just bought one of these cameras a couple of weeks ago and have been getting familiar with it over my first roll. The only part that doesn’t work is the light meter (I don’t have a battery for it) so in the interim I’ve just been shooting everything with the diaphragm wide open at f/1.9. Mostly I’ve been shooting interiors and on cloudy days. I haven’t yet got the first roll developed - do you think overexposure will be a significant problem in this case? Or in your experience are 8mm films shot on these cameras difficult to overexpose completely? Thanks again.
Hello Daniel, it actually depends on the films ASA/ISO you are shooting with, along with just how much ambient light each scene has. Outside, even on a cloudy day may be over exposed, and indoors even at 1.9 could very well be underexposed. If you have a still camera with a working light meter, you can use it by setting the Asa on that camera the same as the film you are shooting. Then set the shutter speed at 1/60 for 24fps, or 1/40 for 18fps.
The P1’s are great cameras. Enjoy shooting. Just let me know if you have any other questions.
18 fps was for magnetic sound stripe, 16 fps was silent standard speed, but 18 could be silent also
Michael Carter I was just basing that on the 18FPS being red on this camera. I also thought I had read it somewhere as well. But what you say makes sense because a few of my older cameras don’t have an 18fps option just a 16 then it goes to 24. Again I always welcome comments from one as knowledgeable as you. I love your videos.
Hello. Thank you for a good upload. I got this camera today from a second hand shop. It's missing the zoom extention lever, and also the winder (crank) - but the normal wind works, and the rubber eyepiece is gone too. It's the camera, the handle and the sun protector.
Well...the camera is not in a very good condition, since all the buttons and so are very, very hard to move. The film mechanism seem to work. What I can hear is some sort of rattle from the silver colored part above the lens. If i turn the camera at different directions, something is "living" in there. I also do need a battery for the camera. But at this moment, I need to get in contact with any repair / service store in Sweden - or germany (or something like that). Any suggestions? Thank you once again. =)
rymdskrotet Thank you for watching. The zoom extension lever and the little reverse crank are not important at all. As for getting the camera repaired, I would recommend you do, they are great cameras. I’m not familiar with the repairs shops in Sweden, or Germany but I’m sure there are more than a few. Hopefully someone else we read this and let as know who does repairs there.
Great video! Very informative!
Where do you get your film from? I've only been able to find black and white regular 8mm from Foma but I can't seem to find any other sources or any color film at all.
Wild Pikmin are you in the USA? If so, International Film Brokers (buy8mmfilm.com) has Cine X 125 B&W film for $18.00. I have had much better luck with it over the Foma film. It gives a very well balanced look and doesn’t seem to have the problems that I found with the Foma.
@@csb65536 Great, I will check that out. Thank you!
Hi:) I have the Bolex k1 and I have a weird red triangle shape when I look through the viewfinder? Is that the light meter tell me I'm over or under exposed? Or is it the focus?
I am not familiar with the K1 model, but hopefully someone reading this is can comment on it. Or, try to look up the manual on Google
What is the best replacement battery for the P1?
Do i need to use the crank? Is it a mandatory item that I will need to film or optional?
The Rayovac 675 zinc air hearing aid battery is what I use, make sure that when you remove the tab to let it air, you let it sit for a few mins before installing it. As for the crank, it is an optional item that you would probably never use, I wouldn’t worry about not having one. As for the crack you are seeing in the viewfinder, it is supposed to be there, that is what is called a split image viewfinder. When you are focusing you line up a vertical edge. When it’s in focus, the section above, and the section below the line are in line with each other. If you download the operators manual it will explain it in more detail. The last thing I will suggest is to have the camera cleaned by a camera tech that is familiar with these cameras. bolexrepair.com in Az is the best one I know of to have the unit cleaned, lubed, and adjusted. Good luck, and happy filming!
Hi, I love your video, it's very informative! I got a Bolex P1 camera and wondering can you tell me the settings for 100 iso b&w, like 21 din and so on? Also, does the film last a 2 minutes or so? I filmed in the street a bit but it just stopped after about 10 seconds and I had to wind it up again. I'm starting out with it so I'll more than likely waist one or two rolls. Thanks again CS B! Dublin,Republic Of Ireland.
Ok, first let me say thank you. Now, on to the camera. If it is fully wound, it should run 20 to 22 seconds at 24fps, and about 30 seconds at 18fps. If it only running 10 seconds, it may just need a CLA (Clean and Lubed) or, if it was stored wound, the spring/mechanical motor may be weak. As for settings. If the meter is working you can test it’s accuracy by setting the 24fps at ASA 64 and in bright sun light point the camera at an 18% grey card and adjust the f-stop (dial at the base of the lens) until the needle is in the middle. This should be between f11 and f16. If it is slightly to the right of the center when set on F16, that’s fine. If the meter isn’t working at all, let me know, and I will give you other ways to set the f-stop.
@@csb65536 That's great to hear! Thanks! When I look through the diopter,there is a small black line to the top left of the screen
Hilltop Viewer Did you get the meter working?
@@csb65536 Hi again,I put in the small spacer, put in spring,then the battery.But a little black marker is pointing to the top left corner as I look through the viewfinder.I feel it is not working but film is wound halfway around the takeup spool.I have to finish the rest of the film
My shutter slider in front of the shutter selector for closed ,half open and open, that silver slider that is supposed to give you single frame, the middle position, then down for running the camera, won't fully move all the way down. One of two possible reasons my camera won't run. The other is that it's wound tight. So, trying to figure out what to do to get that slider to go to open.
Will the camera work on the single frame positron?
Hello sir just bought this camera to test shoot some stop motion on! On thing i know about these cameras is if its been sitting for a very long time the lubrication dries up and the gears get stuck, everything seems to work properly besides my ASA knob it seems to be stuck. I took it apart and looked underneath the little light meter mortor and didnt see how i could get it off. It seems the star looking thing on top of the plastic knob needs to be unscrewed? Am i correct on this? I saw on a post that there might be something i need to unlock to move the ASA knob is thar correct? Im sorry if you abswered this in the video just didnt see you do anything like that.
Ok, I guess I may not be following you on this. On the ASA setting, you have to make sure the tam is pulled outward before you can adjust it. However, you must first establish the light meter even works. To do this, you need to put the battery in it. The hearing aid battery I mentioned in the video. If you find that the meter does not function, then the ASA setting is of no use. I recommend using a handheld meter, or a phone app and not to even worry about the ASA setting on the camera. Lastly, I would definitely recommend getting a CLA before going further. Otherwise you stand the risk of the camera freezing up.
@csb65536 the battery contacts definitely has corrosion on it but I'm trying to get into repairs and CLAing 16mm and 8mm cameras so I'll see what I can do! How can I pull out the cam for the asa exactly?
Just a shot in the dark question if you're still reading comments; are there any filters you would recommend seeking out for this model?
So sorry for the delay. As far as what filters to use highly depends on the Film you are using. But, as a general rule, I do like using a polarizing filter for B&W. But when using it, you must remember that the filter will change when you focus. Otherwise I would recomend any filter that will darken the sky slighty.
I have one of these. Had it for years. Suddenly the shutter release is just loose to push in and doesn't engage anything so it doesn't release the shutter and toll the camera. Any idea how I can repair this on my own?
If it’s the shutter release on the trigger handle I would try the one on the camera. If it’s the one on the camera I would try a mechanical/shutter release cable. Let me know if that does not work.
It's not the handle as that only pushes the camera shutter release so make no difference oaths problem. I will try and get hold of a cable release and see if that works and then come back to you and let you know. Thnx@@csb65536
bobbybray did you get a chance to try the shutter release cable yet?
I don't have one and haven't had the chance to find one yet. I will do and let you know when I do. Thnx
@@csb65536
Hi there! Inherited one of these from my mom. I can't seem to get the battery cap open. Is there a trick? I suspect it hasn't been opened in about 40 years or so, so... could just be on there pretty tight. But appreciate any advice.
Put a cloth on it and try pliers.
I agree, a cloth or something to protect it from getting scratches and try needle nose pliers
Did you get the battery cover off?
I’m going to ask a silly question. Sorry for that in advance. I received this camera as a Christmas present yesterday. It was working for a second, and suddenly stopped. It’s without batteries. But it was working (I will buy batteries today) my question is. With the batteries will run again or theres a manual system or something? It’s my first reflex video camera. I have the analog cameras under control. But that one is driving me a bit crazy xD thanks for your video. Answered to me loads of questions. Kind Regards
Emerita Martinez The battery is for the light meter only. The camera runs by winding it up. So, if it’s wound up, and you push the the run button and nothing happens, it may be that the release selector is in the up, or middle position. It must be all the way down for the camera to run. The release selector is the small silver colored tab just in front of the shutter opening selector. Again, you do not need batteries for this camera to run, just wind it up. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Thank you! I will try it now. Yes. I have a other one. Sorry. I read the 25ft films can be used as 50ft film if is reversal. It does that automatically or I need to exchange the wheels positions? Affects the light same as an analog camera?
Emerita Martinez All double 8mm film comes in a 25ft roll of 16mm wide film. Your shoot the first 25ft, then you take the film out, turn it over and film the other 25ft. When the lab processes it, they splice the two sections together and it comes back to you as a 50’ roll of 8mm. You really should download the manual for this camera and go over it. It will explain a lot of the features, and how to load the camera.
Just doing a quick follow up with you. Did you get the camera figured out? And, is there anything else I can help you with on it?
Hi! I hope all is well! I’m confused about one detail. You said in the video “match the ASA to the frame rate.” Isn’t the ASA technically the “ISO”? So for example. If I shoot on 100D film. So my ASA would be 100? And if so, how would I match it to the FPS?
And please excuse my ignorance!
Ok, yes the ASA and ISO are the same. However, it was referred to as ASA when this camera was manufactured. So if you look on the side of the camera that has the winder, you will also see two adjustment dials. The one on the upper left say ASA on it. If you look in the center portion of that dial you will see indicator lines with the numbers 12, 18 (18 is in red) 32 and 64. There are a few indicater lines without numbers one is between the 18 and 32, that’s the 24 indicator line. These numbers are the frame rate reference numbers. On the outer portion of that same dial you will see a series of markers with numbers next to them ranging from 5-200. These numbers are the ASA of the film you are using. You match the frame rate number to the ASA number. Say for instance you are shooting FOMA 100, and want to shoot it at 18fps. You line up the number 18 on the inter portion of the dial to the 100 on the outer portion of the dial.
The other dial on that side of the camera is the frame adjustment dial. You line up the frame rate number with the dot on top of the dial. In this case you would line up the 18 with the dot.
I hope this helps you understand the camera better. These are great cameras.
@@csb65536 you’re amazing you really are! God bless you mister 🙏 it makes sense now! Thank you! If I have any more questions. I’ll make sure to come to you.
I just got my camera and set everything up perfectly. I have a couple of questions I hope you can answer.
1. So I put the camera on “run” mode. I press the trigger and the camera won’t run. Unless I wind it manually. Idk if the battery’s are good. I just barely received the camera. But if the battery is good. Should the camera run without manually cranking the winder??
@@josefloresjr1968I must apologize for missing this question. The battery for the Bolex P1 is strictly for the light meter. The camera is an all mechanical camera that basically operates the same as a wind up watch. You wind the motor until you feel it wanting to stop. Then you set your desired run speed (Frames per second) and push the shutter button. If the camera is running properly, you should get around 30 seconds of run time at 18 frames per second, and 20-22 seconds when set at 24fps.
do you happen to know where to get film developed?
mizdrmcdooglesRBLX There are multiple places to get it processed. It depends a lot on which film you are shooting. I have used Spectra Film in Ca. for my B&W as well as color negative film. I have also used Yale Film Labs. You may also want to check out a company called “The Film Photography Project for film and processing. I just started using Cine Lab in Bedford, Ma. You do have many options.
@@csb65536 thanks! I appreciate the response I'll check those places out!
How do you meter with it?
I guess I’m not following the question. There is a built in meter. The meters in the ones I own all work. However, I prefer to use a hand held meter.
Thank you for coming back so quick, I am interested in how the meter works is to connected to the aperture value, does the stopping of the aperture dime the viewfinder ?
I have enough of 8mm cameras with non working meter, and I am not keen to use external meter if I could find one with a working one. (I carry too many things with me as is)
:-)
Petko Iordanov Ok, now I understand. The meter itself is just a meter, it reads the available light based on how the frame rate is matched to your ASA setting. It has a needle that you center by adjusting the aperture manually while looking through the camera. It does not have an effect on the amount of light in the viewfinder because the aperture is post viewfinder, so the only thing that changes in the view finder is the needle position. The two best features of the meter on this camera is: One, the meter is through the lens, so as you zoom, it reads only what the lens sees,. Two, the amount of light in the viewfinder doesn’t change from f1.9 to f16. The only bad thing about the meter is, because the meter is post viewfinder, when you push the run button, the meter is no longer reading, it zeros. So you get your light reading of whatever you will be shooting then pull the trigger.
If you are looking for a standard 8mm camera, you cannot go wrong with this camera. Make sure when you buy one that the battery compartment is clean, otherwise, the meter will not work at all. If all else fails, contact me and I will help you locate a functioning one.
Great, i see, does it dim the viewing when you close the aperture?
Petko Iordanov no, it doesn’t. The aperture is after the viewfinder so the light stays the same through the viewfinder.
Does this camera record sound because I read that most Bolex's do not.
Michael Bledstein This camera is a regular/double 8mm film camera. None of which recorded sound, at least that I ever knew. Some of the Super 8mm film cameras did. But that type of film is no longer available.
Why would Bolex and other movie cameras in the early 60s not have a sound option? When did movies in the early 60s use a sound camera made in 61? I realize the Bell and Howell camera is without sound, too.
Michael Bledstein No consumer regular 8mm camera has sound (to the best of my knowledge).The cost of that would not be affordable to the avg. consumer. They didn’t figure out an affordable way until Super 8mm was out. It’s just the way it was.
Then how did Hollywood movies in the early 60s record sound? Did they have to reduce everything in the sound booth?
@@csb65536 I was being serious.
I have some extra questions could I have your email and maybe you could help me out? Great video!
Erik McFarland if you could give me yours, I will respond and be more than happy to answer any questions you may have.