Yes definitely a thicker tree in the middle would look good Tony, make it the thickest tree i think. Its a really nice little forest, you've done a great job with the composition. 👍
Thank you for your input Richard. I agree with you and the more I look at it, the more I like it as it is. As you say, if I mess about with that center tree I run the risk of ruining the overall feel of the composition.
Those look very healthy. That kind of pruning looks scary to beginners. With my silver birch forest I trimmed them down to foot tall featureless trunks in winter and they have since thrown out plenty of new shoots and branches. 👍
I really want my own silver birch forest like yours. I'm hoping to put one together in the spring, so it will be great watching the development of your group.
@@TonysBonsai my advice would be to grow the trees separately first, maybe in the ground even, rather than rush them into a pot as I did. They will grow quicker and gain the white bark far quicker - too young into a pot and it could take decades, if at all. 👍 It’s a tricky one since on the one hand you want the proportions of the pot grown trees - birch forests in nature are tall slender trees, but with the bark of a ground grown more mature (but thicker trunk) tree. 🧐
It's a conundrum, but I know a place with shed loads of young birch saplings growing, so I think I'll collect some of those and start from there. None of them have the white bark though.
Hi tony was wondering if maybe you could do a video on winter protection for trees in unpredictable uk weather? Love the videos and happy your nearly back to a full smile aswell💪🏻🌳
Thanks Jae. I'm always happy to be back smiling. To be honest regarding the uk weather, in Preston we have a very mild climate. We don't tend to get too cold, and the main issue is the wind, therefore I don't really protect any of my trees. If it goes crazy cold (-10) then I would perhaps put some of my Japanese maples in the workshop, but apart from that, I lust leave them to get on with it.
If you stick to one group rather than separating it into two groups as per Guy’s very creative suggestion, replacing the middle tree with a thicker one makes sense!
The tree that you want to replace just needs to be moved back. I honestly like the look of the thin trees on the outside give age to the forest because they are new to the expanding forest. As for the 1 in the middle swap with other outside tree. Going to look amazing in a couple of years.
Cheers Shane. This is why I love the bonsai community on youtube. So much helpful feedback. I think your suggestions make a lot of sense and really give me something to think about. Thanks
Nice forest and work. I agree with Guy. Especially about changing the grade of the planting on the next repot. Either way they’re developing well and set up nicely for the future. Thanks, keep growing
@@TonysBonsai I’m going to give it a go but I’m from Birmingham and the voice ain’t pretty mate, dull and monotone. Maybe just style it out with some subtitles 😂😂
Hi Tony, thanks for another great video. I think the group planting already has the feel and appearance of a copse in nature and will only get better in time. 👍
Was nice to catch up on your "work" after my wood carving class (badger head for walking stick). Not done a group yet still deciding on species. If my seeds grow will do maples too. Keep growing xx
That badger head sounds like a difficult project, but potentially a lovely object. I've been thinking about starting wood carving myself. I love the idea of producing very modern pieces out of exotic wood. I hope your maple seeds all germinate.
@@TonysBonsai - lime wood is the answer, I was hoping to do a bonsai tree but the tutor wasn't prepared for us odd balls. We went 3yrs ago and I did a duck and hubby did a badger, so I am trying it this time. He's doing an owl figurine and an eagle head walking stick. We sit for 2hrs not talking - saves fingers lol xx
Yes, I've heard that lime is a great wood for carving, I never turned any bowls with it becasue it's a bit bland. I always found that sycamore was really nice and soft to work. I just made a bonsai chopstick out of olive wood. You can't even plane it. crazy stuff. I hope you outdo your husband in the badger stakes! 🤣
I remember this planting you did in spring does need reducing in height, these plantings don’t look much in the start of winter but they do look good in spring, just hope you have buds lower down after you have reduced the height. You said you don’t have a dad then who the hell was the guy helping you I am sure you called ? Take care Tony.
Hi Joe. Yes theer seem to be plenty of buds on these trees, so plenty of opportunity for growth in the spring with a bit of luck. I think here must be some crossed wires r.e my dad? He was still alive this afternoon when I raided his wood store for my log burner! 🤣
I always use garden ties and assorted strings for tie downs….less scarring on the branches. Works very well for training willow branches, too. Why don’t you just cut the twin trunk away on the tree on the left edge (front view)? It was already well rooted, and had a nice little bend if you removed the other trunk. Just a thought….it’s always the objective to have a forest group’s roots all intertwine together, so I try and disrupt established plants as little as possible in a grouping…..unless it’s to replace a dead one. How cold do your winters get, and do you get tip die back from pruning this time of year?
Now that is a great idea, thank you Caryn. I hadn't considered that, but it makes complete sense to just remove one of the trunks. We don't generally get it cold here in Preston over the winter. Once every ten years we might get a particularly cold snap down below -10C, but in a normal year we just get the odd bit of ground frost in the mornings and that's it. Last year it pretty much never snowed.
@@TonysBonsai Lucky you! Supposed to get down to 7° F (-14 C) tomorrow night, and we aren’t even a third of the way through November. It’s a real challenge doing Bonsai here in Montana!! I have a variety of places to put my trees, all with varying degrees of warmth and protection, as well as simply leaving some outside. Always a crap shoot!🤪 Mostly successful, but I’m sure it takes a toll in overall vigor and growth rate…..my trees grow slower than those with more favorable climates. But, I thoroughly enjoy the hobby, and that’s what it’s all about anyway. Every day is a gift, and I love watching them grow and change, with a little help from me. Garden Art!! 😉👍
Definitely a lot more challenging place to grow bonsai, but as you say, it's all about enjoying it. I have been watching Dave's bonsai and he's getting all his trees indoors in cold frames and heated rooms etc. I'm glad I don;t have to bother with all that, plus I just wouldn't have the space.
Nice looking group Tony. Thinking about the thickness of that front tree - If you were to separate the group into 2 groups, the left 8 and the right 7, there is a natural gap between the two groups to form a path or something in the future. Then the end tree of the left hand group is perfect thickness and you have a nice thick trunk in the centre of that group already. The same situation also exists for the right hand group of 7. Actually, thinking about the 2 groups, when you come to repot, you could raise the level of the left and right groups and form a kind of ravine in between them. What do you think? 👍👍
Wow Guy. You are in a creative mindset mate. Love it! I agree with you about there already being two potential groups with a gap in the center. I did want this forest to have the feel of a relaxing walk in the woods though and possibly adding a ravine might take away that simplicity. I do love the idea though and perhaps I will create something like that with the silver birch group planting that I'm hoping to put together in the spring. Thanks also for the offer of the seeds. I've just replied mate.
@@TonysBonsai We've both got groups to start next Spring. I've got Beech and Hawthorn and lots of repotting so it's going to be a busy start to the year. 😀😀
Yes, I get what you are saying Richard. I think something like a ravine within a composition would have to be planned from the beginning for it to look realistic, but still a great idea by Guy, and definitely something I am going to try with some other trees.
If it were me I think I'd leave them as they are, let them develop. Turned out smashing. I had a liquid amber land yesterday. Pencil thickness 18" high, branching from top to bottom. Loads of potential.
Thanks for the input Kevin. On reflection you might be right about leaving the center trees as they are, although that one on the side is going to go I think. They grow really fast a bit like birch, so I'm sure you'll have it looking great pretty quickly.
Nice Work! I would go with the thinner tree in the middle, as there are some thicker Trees on the Left and Right Already. Otherwise ist could Easily Look too symmetrical!? and as there are already a lot of trees in this small area and they will also thicken a bit more I think keeping it more light-weight looks better in the future.
I'm coming round to your way of thinking Paul. i have decided to leave the center tree as it is, and prune one of the trunks on the tree on the left too. No need to mess with the roots at this stage, and as you say they will all thicken in time anyway.
Nice group, I have several young trees that I am growing on a bit before I put them in a group. Regarding the small low branches you are removing, would you be better leaving them, for now, to help the trunks thicken. I like the rope trick Cheers Richard.
Hi Rich. It's good idea to grow on your trees before putting them in a group. The more you can develop them the better really. Regarding the removal of the lower branches, with them being almost completely shaded out for most of the year, they really don't grow well anyway, so they would always be weak and would add minimal trunk thickness anyway, but it is a good way of thinking, and I am allowing some lower branches to grow in some of my other groups.
I've just woken up and two of you have said the same thing, and I can't believe that I didn't think of it myself. it seems so obvious. I'm definitely going to leave the tree and do as you say in a future video, thanks.
Bonsai phill very good quality trees nice group thanks Tony Nice video thanks. Mate
Cheers Phil. It's coming along much better than I thought, so I've got high hopes for this group in the future.
Yes definitely a thicker tree in the middle would look good Tony, make it the thickest tree i think. Its a really nice little forest, you've done a great job with the composition. 👍
Cheers mate. I tried to visualise it as a group of trees that would make a good photograph, and I think it's coming along nicely.
Perfect Tony!! That improved it alot!! When you bend the tree you got a littel pathway to the forest! Nice!
Cheers mate. I was surprised how much difference just moving that tree made to the composition.
Great group either way. I do like Guy’s idea about separating into two groups.
Thanks Raymond. I think there could be something in Guy's idea going forward.
Great job tony ,you should trust that the centre tree will thicken as it is naturally placed and would change the feel of the copse.
Thank you for your input Richard. I agree with you and the more I look at it, the more I like it as it is. As you say, if I mess about with that center tree I run the risk of ruining the overall feel of the composition.
Those look very healthy. That kind of pruning looks scary to beginners. With my silver birch forest I trimmed them down to foot tall featureless trunks in winter and they have since thrown out plenty of new shoots and branches. 👍
I really want my own silver birch forest like yours. I'm hoping to put one together in the spring, so it will be great watching the development of your group.
@@TonysBonsai my advice would be to grow the trees separately first, maybe in the ground even, rather than rush them into a pot as I did. They will grow quicker and gain the white bark far quicker - too young into a pot and it could take decades, if at all. 👍
It’s a tricky one since on the one hand you want the proportions of the pot grown trees - birch forests in nature are tall slender trees, but with the bark of a ground grown more mature (but thicker trunk) tree. 🧐
It's a conundrum, but I know a place with shed loads of young birch saplings growing, so I think I'll collect some of those and start from there. None of them have the white bark though.
@@TonysBonsai settle in for the long game 🥹😁😁
🤣
That field maple arrangement is wonderful, Tony. Good to see you are only 50 subs short of 3k - well done and best wishes, Nikki
Thank you Nikki. I'm really happy with how this project is coming along. Hopefully hit 3k in a week or so.
Very good looking forest. I really like how the trunk color pops against the dark pot!
Cheers mate. It's coming along nicely, and I'm hoping for a really strong growing season next year.
Wow & hello Tony. Your videos are fantastic. You have taught me heaps .
I am only a beginner at 52. ha.
Cheers Tony.
Hi Jason. I'm really glad you've been enjoying my videos. 52 is still young in the bonsai game. You've got another 30+ good years in you yet!
Hi tony was wondering if maybe you could do a video on winter protection for trees in unpredictable uk weather? Love the videos and happy your nearly back to a full smile aswell💪🏻🌳
Thanks Jae. I'm always happy to be back smiling. To be honest regarding the uk weather, in Preston we have a very mild climate. We don't tend to get too cold, and the main issue is the wind, therefore I don't really protect any of my trees. If it goes crazy cold (-10) then I would perhaps put some of my Japanese maples in the workshop, but apart from that, I lust leave them to get on with it.
Nice work!
Thank you
Learning Bonsai I've had a new application for spring.
Thanks for sharing that, I've yet to try a forest.
I agree. I always used to enjoy Autumn the most, but now I absolutely love spring. You should put a group together. They are great fun.
If you stick to one group rather than separating it into two groups as per Guy’s very creative suggestion, replacing the middle tree with a thicker one makes sense!
Yes, I could even go with one thicker than any of the others to add a central main tree. I've got some thinking to do.
The tree that you want to replace just needs to be moved back.
I honestly like the look of the thin trees on the outside give age to the forest because they are new to the expanding forest.
As for the 1 in the middle swap with other outside tree.
Going to look amazing in a couple of years.
Cheers Shane. This is why I love the bonsai community on youtube. So much helpful feedback. I think your suggestions make a lot of sense and really give me something to think about. Thanks
Great video Tony..
Cheers Michael. I love working on groups.
Nice forest and work. I agree with Guy. Especially about changing the grade of the planting on the next repot. Either way they’re developing well and set up nicely for the future. Thanks, keep growing
Thanks for the input Matt. I'm definitely liking how this is developing. I'll just wait and see for the time being I think.
@@TonysBonsai ,, forests are forests and Penjing are Penjing and never the twain shall meet. Congrats on closing in on 3K subs.
Cheers mate. Should get there this week. It still seems crazy to me!
Yeah Tony, swap that middle tree with the thicker one on the left (looking face on). Lovely arrangement mate, keep up the good work!
Cheers mate. Great Chanel name. Are you planning on producing some videos?
@@TonysBonsai I’m going to give it a go but I’m from Birmingham and the voice ain’t pretty mate, dull and monotone. Maybe just style it out with some subtitles 😂😂
Do whatever works for you, or should I say yow 🤣
Hi Tony, thanks for another great video. I think the group planting already has the feel and appearance of a copse in nature and will only get better in time. 👍
Thank you. I'm feeling really positive about how this group is developing. As you say, it should keep getting better.
so close to 3k subscribes! thats crazy, congratulations!
Cheers Adam. It amazes me.
Was nice to catch up on your "work" after my wood carving class (badger head for walking stick). Not done a group yet still deciding on species. If my seeds grow will do maples too. Keep growing xx
That badger head sounds like a difficult project, but potentially a lovely object. I've been thinking about starting wood carving myself. I love the idea of producing very modern pieces out of exotic wood.
I hope your maple seeds all germinate.
@@TonysBonsai - lime wood is the answer, I was hoping to do a bonsai tree but the tutor wasn't prepared for us odd balls. We went 3yrs ago and I did a duck and hubby did a badger, so I am trying it this time. He's doing an owl figurine and an eagle head walking stick. We sit for 2hrs not talking - saves fingers lol xx
Yes, I've heard that lime is a great wood for carving, I never turned any bowls with it becasue it's a bit bland. I always found that sycamore was really nice and soft to work.
I just made a bonsai chopstick out of olive wood. You can't even plane it. crazy stuff.
I hope you outdo your husband in the badger stakes! 🤣
I remember this planting you did in spring does need reducing in height, these plantings don’t look much in the start of winter but they do look good in spring, just hope you have buds lower down after you have reduced the height. You said you don’t have a dad then who the hell was the guy helping you I am sure you called ? Take care Tony.
Hi Joe. Yes theer seem to be plenty of buds on these trees, so plenty of opportunity for growth in the spring with a bit of luck.
I think here must be some crossed wires r.e my dad? He was still alive this afternoon when I raided his wood store for my log burner! 🤣
I always use garden ties and assorted strings for tie downs….less scarring on the branches. Works very well for training willow branches, too. Why don’t you just cut the twin trunk away on the tree on the left edge (front view)? It was already well rooted, and had a nice little bend if you removed the other trunk. Just a thought….it’s always the objective to have a forest group’s roots all intertwine together, so I try and disrupt established plants as little as possible in a grouping…..unless it’s to replace a dead one. How cold do your winters get, and do you get tip die back from pruning this time of year?
Now that is a great idea, thank you Caryn. I hadn't considered that, but it makes complete sense to just remove one of the trunks. We don't generally get it cold here in Preston over the winter. Once every ten years we might get a particularly cold snap down below -10C, but in a normal year we just get the odd bit of ground frost in the mornings and that's it. Last year it pretty much never snowed.
@@TonysBonsai Lucky you! Supposed to get down to 7° F (-14 C) tomorrow night, and we aren’t even a third of the way through November. It’s a real challenge doing Bonsai here in Montana!! I have a variety of places to put my trees, all with varying degrees of warmth and protection, as well as simply leaving some outside. Always a crap shoot!🤪 Mostly successful, but I’m sure it takes a toll in overall vigor and growth rate…..my trees grow slower than those with more favorable climates. But, I thoroughly enjoy the hobby, and that’s what it’s all about anyway. Every day is a gift, and I love watching them grow and change, with a little help from me. Garden Art!! 😉👍
Definitely a lot more challenging place to grow bonsai, but as you say, it's all about enjoying it. I have been watching Dave's bonsai and he's getting all his trees indoors in cold frames and heated rooms etc. I'm glad I don;t have to bother with all that, plus I just wouldn't have the space.
Yeah...breakfast at Tony's :) A great developing forest planting.
Just a shame Audrey Hepburn in her prime is nowhere to be seen 😉
@@TonysBonsai Now that is a top reply A*A*A*🤣😂
🤣🤣
Nice looking group Tony. Thinking about the thickness of that front tree - If you were to separate the group into 2 groups, the left 8 and the right 7, there is a natural gap between the two groups to form a path or something in the future. Then the end tree of the left hand group is perfect thickness and you have a nice thick trunk in the centre of that group already. The same situation also exists for the right hand group of 7. Actually, thinking about the 2 groups, when you come to repot, you could raise the level of the left and right groups and form a kind of ravine in between them. What do you think? 👍👍
Wow Guy. You are in a creative mindset mate. Love it! I agree with you about there already being two potential groups with a gap in the center. I did want this forest to have the feel of a relaxing walk in the woods though and possibly adding a ravine might take away that simplicity. I do love the idea though and perhaps I will create something like that with the silver birch group planting that I'm hoping to put together in the spring. Thanks also for the offer of the seeds. I've just replied mate.
@@TonysBonsai We've both got groups to start next Spring. I've got Beech and Hawthorn and lots of repotting so it's going to be a busy start to the year. 😀😀
Bonsai on youtube will be going crazy come March!
Splitting the group with a ravine down the centre might leave it looking symmetrical and contrived
Yes, I get what you are saying Richard. I think something like a ravine within a composition would have to be planned from the beginning for it to look realistic, but still a great idea by Guy, and definitely something I am going to try with some other trees.
If it were me I think I'd leave them as they are, let them develop. Turned out smashing.
I had a liquid amber land yesterday. Pencil thickness 18" high, branching from top to bottom. Loads of potential.
Thanks for the input Kevin. On reflection you might be right about leaving the center trees as they are, although that one on the side is going to go I think.
They grow really fast a bit like birch, so I'm sure you'll have it looking great pretty quickly.
Nice Work!
I would go with the thinner tree in the middle, as there are some thicker Trees on the Left and Right Already. Otherwise ist could Easily Look too symmetrical!? and as there are already a lot of trees in this small area and they will also thicken a bit more I think keeping it more light-weight looks better in the future.
I'm coming round to your way of thinking Paul. i have decided to leave the center tree as it is, and prune one of the trunks on the tree on the left too. No need to mess with the roots at this stage, and as you say they will all thicken in time anyway.
Looks like a nice composition. 😀👍I would not add a more heavy trunk in the middle of the pot. The risk is that it will look far too symetric.
Cheers mate. I think it's getting there.
Nice group, I have several young trees that I am growing on a bit before I put them in a group. Regarding the small low branches you are removing, would you be better leaving them, for now, to help the trunks thicken. I like the rope trick
Cheers
Richard.
Hi Rich. It's good idea to grow on your trees before putting them in a group. The more you can develop them the better really. Regarding the removal of the lower branches, with them being almost completely shaded out for most of the year, they really don't grow well anyway, so they would always be weak and would add minimal trunk thickness anyway, but it is a good way of thinking, and I am allowing some lower branches to grow in some of my other groups.
I thought Peter Chan was in da house.
🤣I was certainly going for it, Andrew.
Just remove the right hand side of the fork.
I've just woken up and two of you have said the same thing, and I can't believe that I didn't think of it myself. it seems so obvious. I'm definitely going to leave the tree and do as you say in a future video, thanks.
First!
Cheers Jon