3D Printing for D&D 🤔 Is it Worth it? (Elegoo Mars)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 มิ.ย. 2024
- Is 3D printing for TTRPGs cheap, easy, and high quality? Let's discuss!
Elegoo Mars 3 3D Printer: amzn.to/400Okz9
Use code: 8GSW8ULJ to get 10% off Elegoo Resin - amzn.to/39E6A8I (only thru 7/31/20)
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0:00 - Intro
0:48 - Thanks to Elegoo and MyMiniFactory
1:38 - What to expect
2:20 - WHY 3D PRINTING?
3:15 - HOW MUCH DOES THIS COST?
5:58 - larger models and terrain
7:30 - cost of files
8:29 - return on investment
10:16 - HOW EASY IS IT?
11:58 - chitubox & supports
13:15 - print failures
14:30 - toxic! handling your prints
17:10 - clean-up and curing
19:15 - HOW GOOD IS THE QUALITY?
20:49 - free vs. paid - เกม
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UPDATE (January 2022)
I'm still loving 3D printing! I currently use an Elegoo Saturn, which is nice because it has a much bigger build plate and prints faster. However, my Mars link in the description now links to the (currently more expensive) Mars 2 Pro, because the Mars has been discontinued. So if you are looking for a comparable cheaper model, here are some suggestions:
Voxelab Proxima: amzn.to/3eZraUJ
Creality Halot-one CL-60: amzn.to/32RKy3v
As for me, I'm loving my Saturn, which is currently priced around $500. amzn.to/3qXHqeB
Feel free to suggest others below!
Really appreciate the update! just getting into the research for my first printer and its super helpful to get current info!
Any recommendations for a 6k printer?
Thanks this video really helped a lot! 😄😄
I found used vowel Labs proximas for $85 on ebay
Excited to start this weekend. My FDM has been printing terrain for a long time. I have also been printing dragonlock minis. Bit I am excited to print with my new photon 4k.
Also worth noting for people interested in water washable resin, do NOT just rinse it in the sink. You can use normal water for the rinsing, but you need to still treat that water as toxic and not flush it down the sink.
Yes keep it in a container, once it’s too dirty or you’re done you evaporate it, and take it to toxic waste disposal.
@@absolutelydegenerate1900 Leaving the container that held the water evaporating in the sun will cause the resin in the water to cure.
For custom minis, there's now also Desktop Hero 3D. They don't charge for STLs but instead sell asset packs (sets of clothing and items) that you can use to make as many minis as you want and the core pack is free.
Also, large minis should be hollowed to save resin.
I'm assuming you're talking about making the infill pattern smaller, if you are that's good advice, however I've found with completely hollow things they can sometimes missprint.
@@bluebobman6152 that and solid might be easier to glue if the thing breaks.
@@bluebobman6152 You can never clean an infilled model properly, you will end up with uncured resin on the inside which is bad news.
@@bluebobman6152 You don't require infill for resin miniatures, you only require a few internal supports if hollowed (along with drain holes)
Ok listen to these people not me, sorry i come from FDM Printing so SLA Printing is pretty new to me
I'm a scale modeller and 3D printing is pretty much revolutionizing this industry. It might not be for everyone, but people who are doing arts and crafts anyway, can surely benefit from printing. It's amazing how we are living in the literal future right now.
I’ve often wondered about 3d printing. I don’t have the room or the money for it right now, but it always seemed to be a massive boon for a DM. I can print minis for my players, I can develop a great collection of beasties and so on... yeah. It feels like the right choice.
And I’ll tell you, I REALLY needed this video. Thank you so much for making it, boss. Fantastically informative, answered all my questions... sincerely: grateful for this.
Thanks, Steve!
You need a 2'× footprint for the printer and needed items
I have two running printers right now, a resin like this (Anycubic Photon) and an FDM (Prusa I3 Mk3s), plus an Ender 3 that needs fixing. I use the resin for regular minis, and the FDM for really big stuff and terrain. I am currently doing the Tarrasque from Artisan Guild on the FDM, the quality is still great if you run small layers, it just takes forever. I used the FDM because his thing is freaking huge, and filament will cost about a quarter of what resin would, maybe even less.
@@PaulGuy Correct me if I'm wrong but it seems 2.2 pounds of filament would be $25-30. 1 liter of water washable resin is $45-50 or non water washable for $30 is 2.2 pounds. So it looks like it's the same weight which wouldn't mean any price savings unless you are getting cheap filament but you could also get $30 non water washable for the same price/weight. Please if I'm wrong let me know but not seeing any savings here.
@@WillWildsOutdoorAdventures FDM prints generally get printed hollow with support infill, so you use less filament. Resin prints the full layer solid. Technically you can hollow resin prints out, but you need to make drain holes for uncured resin, and the stuff inside will never fully cure.
Next step: Nate getting into 3D sculpting and making his own miniatures. :)
As a 3d artis and a mini fanatic I can say there is sutch a fulfilment when you start conceptin your mini, model it, print it and paint it. Its like crack :))
@@AndreiPek is there a way to scan sculptures you've handmade, then shrink down to make minis out of it!? :O This is definitely something that would push me toward getting a 3D printer! (the scanning part is something I'm not sure how you'd go about it)
@@FlRELAlR yes you can but being so small its hard to get acurate results. If its painted its even harder if it has metalics on or reflective coats. Perfect scenario: gray matt coat and lots of photos taken under a overcast sky or flooded light. Yf you search a bit on photogrammetry you'll see the ins ant outs and what is required.
@@AndreiPek I searched "Photogrammetry" and the first video showed me everything I had questions about. Thank you so much!
@@AndreiPek Oh cool, im doing the same. Do you have a MyMiniFactory account or art page? I'd like to see what stuff you make. (Sofar ive amde an undead skeleton horde, Orc warband, and spiders
One thing that helps when cleaning your build plate, vat, and LCD screen is Sprayway Glass Cleaner. It has a compound that dissolves resin and give them a hood protective coating that helps with plate adhesion.
I can see it now, “3D Printing A Fantasy Map!!”
Great review, Nate :)
If you need a commission. DM me I print lol.
Haha! Thanks, Bob. :)
There's absolutely nothing wrong with autosupports. You just need to go through it afterwards and check that everything is actually supported.
The mask doesn't really do anything for breathing in the fumes. To take care of fumes you need to wear a respirator. The mask keeps small amounts of resin from flicking up into your mouth or nose when you work with it. Usually, the most common time this could happen would be when taking the print off the build plate.
I would also recommend eye protection. you would not want to get resin in your eyes. Why that isn't brought up more when discussing safety is beyond me.
The smell can vary from resin to resin and even person to person. some people can be sensitive to the smell. A friend of mine printed just once and then sold his printer due to the smell. I used the resin which he gave to me and I didn't think it was bad at all.
Large prints also need to be hollowed and have drain holes put into the print. Uncured resin trapped inside the print will leech into the print and cause issues over time.
As far as auto supports, good when your new and still figuring it all out. However, over time you'll notice that the surface quality you can get from doing your own is far better. You can control the size and depth penetration of supports making for easier support removal with little to no surface defects. Auto supports doesn't really do that very well.
yeah it really bothered me that he just neglected this point so much. I was aiming for filament as I mainly wanted to do detail pieces for sci-fi scenery, and not miniatures, but resin just seems really superior, and might be worth putting in the extra effort - and actually knowing enough about safety.
This depends on the filters you are using. I use Draeger masks, Draeger offers different masks for different applications. Use P2/3 for dust only or go up to A1B1E1K1Hg P3 for organic fumes, unorganic fumes, sulfur dioxide, hydrogen chloride, ammonia, quicksilver fumes and particles.
the dangers of the toxicity of resin are wildly overreported. it's no more harmful than bleach or nearly any fluid you'd put in your car, yet people freak the hell out about resin and don't bat an eye about using bleach without a respirator.
take precautions, sure, but you don't have to suit up to print some minis.
I run a game off of entirely 3d printed minis and terrain. Resin for minis, FDM for terrain. Also the Phrozen Sonic Mini is a fantastic and FAST resin printer. I own one and highly recommend it!
same here. I'm using the Anycubic Photon, which was back then the best choice. Today I'd recommend anyone trying to get into resin 3d printing to get a Elegoo Mars, since their customer support and pricing is just fantastic. Can't wait to get my Elegoo Saturn to print even bigger minis :V
@@illidony3836 i have a question regarding photon. Does the photon S have bigger surface area than the OG photon? Im planning to buy one. Thanks. Stay safe and healthy.
@@akbarrmd7714 No, the Photon S only has faster curing times and a dual Z rod. The new upcoming Photon Mono will have a bigger build plate.
@@akbarrmd7714 I've heard from one TH-camr that the Photon S is NOT worth the price hike over the Photon. Many Photon users were pretty disappointed with it.
@@WASD20 thanks. so the OG photon then.
The unicorn was VERY unexpected, and I loved it :)
I got this notification as soon as I started preparing my 3D printer for printing a miniature
"This is a big toy to print small toys" hahahaahahahaha Oh, man, how i wanna a toy like that
The larger the build plate, the lower the cost per piece. Makes printing things like the dragon cost less and take less time to actually print. There have also been a bunch of after market pieces you cn buy, like a flexible, magnetic build plate.
love how he says beforehand that his links are affiliate links, i know a lot of youtubers who dont do that and its just nice that hes upfront about it
Awesome! I've been waiting on this video, and you did not disappoint, sir! I'm so glad to see how much you're loving your Elegoo Mars. You've done a wonderful job of breaking down the process for newcomers, you should really be proud. I especially love that your video will reach an audience who might otherwise not have looked up a video on resin printing, and hopefully others will now be drawn into the hobby. Looking forward to seeing more from you on this, Nate!
Thanks so much! I do hope it spreads the good word on how awesome this is. :)
I have a FDM printer and use it to print minis and dungeon tiles and I love it. I printed my daughter's d&d mini with it.
What printer is it
@@JJ-vp3bd it's a Tronxy XY-2 I am still learning some new things but love how the prints are coming out.
Yes it is 100% if you use a ton of miniatures but disclaimer there is a large learning curve but once you get it down it’s absolutely amazing plus you can make money from it
No there isn't a large learning curve at all, it's quite easy.
The learning curve seems to depend on the printer you get. Some printers seem more plug and play almost, where as some require a lot of work just to get going and then more work to get the prints to look good.
I’m basing my learning curve comment in the fact that I knew nothing at all about 3d printing other than I liked miniatures. So yes there was a large learning curve for me personally I had to learn how to slice software , how to use the machine and how to even get the files to print yes indeed a very large learning curve for someone like me that had less than zero experience with any kind of 3d computer knowledge. And I’m sure there are other printers out there that are plug and play I’m basing my knowledge of using the ANYCUBIC photon only and it’s wash machine. My comment on this thread wasn’t to discourage any one from getting into it. But from my personal experience it was not as easy as it looked. :)
@@WillWildsOutdoorAdventures If you've never used a slicer before (which I imagine most people haven't), 3D printing can be VERY confusing, and slicing your files wrong can waste hours, resin, and (in extreme cases) damage your printer. For resin printers especially, processing and handling minis after printing is awful and can't really be overstated. Whatever your experience, you have to acknowledge that someone who has had no 3D printing experience whatsoever is going to have to learn a LOT if they just pick up an Elegoo Mars out of the blue.
The BEST gaming purchase I've made hands down is my Ender 3 Pro. I use it primarily for terrain but have made amazing minis. The amount of detail is unreal. Ive printed large rock and mountain sections where the fractal like detail has to be seen to be believed. It really is too good to be true.
"I think we're all getting used to this by now!" - LOLZ
As a person who does 3d modeling, 3d printing seems extremely amazing for DnD, as I could actually create fully customized minis
And then sell them too lol
One of the guys in my primary group just bought one of these a month ago, and it has been pretty awesome. Any time I can't find a mini for sale I want, he just prints it up. We have been painting more than playing lately lol.
This was a super informative video! Really appreciate you taking the time to make this. Super thorough.
This is the video I was looking for, as I've been asking myself these same questions lately. Thank you!
Thanks for sharing your experience and the steps. I've been getting closer to making this leap myself. I really like the idea of mixing this with 3d sculpting for when I throw custom enemies at my players.
best review ever, you came out right at the beginning with your verdict without faffing around about nonsense. Thank you, im still gonna watch till the end but just wanted u to know that its very much appreciated :)
You crushed it in this video, Nate. Tight format, excellent information.
Thanks, Dave. That means a lot coming from you. :)
Lots of really cool info here. I’m considering creating custom minis, and your video answered the questions I had 👍👍
I just started getting into resin printing this week. Very helpful video! I'm excited to get into this
This video did answer allot of question I had in such way that other channels fail to do...BIG THX
This was a great video and has solidified my desire to keep using my paper minis! Print, cut, fold, trim done! Whoohooh! But thorough informative video as always by WASD20 for sure!
Thank you for covering the supports part, I've seen so many reviews but no one ever explains that the minis don't just print, you have to go in and add supports yourself, an auto feature seems super useful.
For auto supports, I use the Prusaslicer to auto orient the model and add auto supports (I usually add a couple extras too) and then export the supported model as an STL before throwing that into chitubox.
The result isn't as nice as my custom supports, but it goes about 10x faster, which means more minis on the table!
For getting the supports off, I soak the models in warm (as hot as your taps will go) water after washing them in alcohol to weaken the supports.
This way incredibly detailed yet simple to understand, thank you for making this video 3d printing minis for my games always sounded to expensive and intimidating but now I am looking to get a printer thanks for the insight!
I've had my Photon S for about a week and a half and it's been amazing. I've had one or two issues and a couple of "presupported" fails but I really enjoy the process and it's been essentially going 24/7.
The biggest weakness to the MSLA type machines are the LCD screens. The MARS needs a steady flow of FEP film and LCD screens to be reliable in a large scale setup. I have 12 of them running paid work, but I also keep 16 screens (1 for every 100-150 hours of printing) and about 20 FEP sheets (1 for every 50 or so hours depending on model complexity). You'll also need spare vats, as the stupid screws mounting the sheet to the vat as well as the film to the frame do tend to strip and sieze. Luckily they are the same size as ender 3 spare screws (I have 30 of the Ender 3 machines), so I have had a good supply of replacement hardware. Oh, and 3-in-1 PTFE lube on vat cleaning or FEP replacement is a MUST.
@@BlackRazor54 Rapid resin isn't too bad for smell, but the mess is pretty insane with more than a few machines. I wound up creating a 3' x 4' "Slap Mat" out of platinum cure silicone to try and keep it under control.
When you mentioned about the "return on your investment" being less when you printed that wyvern thing ......yes it becomes less of an overall return but you pay £9, whereas for the same size GW would charge £95...
Great video! Bought myself the Elegoo Mars Pro yesterday and got some pretty handy information from you. Can't wait to try some printing.
Awesome! Enjoy!
I keep my supports - the support bases and standoffs make awesome Greebles for spaceship moddeling :D
Thank you, Nate! Great video! I agree with your take on the subject 100 percent! Although I did decide to go with the more expensive Epax X1 and I don't regret it one bit! Fantastic machine and amazing customer service! I also have an Ender 3 Pro that I use for printing terrain and larger objects so I guess I have the best of both worlds! :)
Dude, great video and very informative. Thanks!
Oh man this is a great surprise. I recently got this printer and it comes in this weekend. I got it for miniatures because I spent so much time on Heroforge designing I was like. The cost is as much as a printer.
Excellent video, you won a new suscriber!
Bro, did really inspired me! just ordered mine!
I had the same grease issue on the z axis when I first got my photon, I now have a photon, elegoo Mars, and an ender 3 pro, I have to say the ender is excellent for terrain and very customizable if your seriously teetering on getting one I’d say jump on it when you get the chance!
Do you prefer Photon or Mars for resin printing? And why do you have both?
My Elegoo Pro 2 comes today. I'm stupid excited for it. Thanks for this video, I've been wondering how some folks do their workflow.
Resolution on 3d printers is around 50 or less microns. So it can print very fine details. Friend of mine currently writes about it.
I think it's more a matter of more time and energy being invested by GW for sculpting of models. I think sculptors for 3D printing will get better, but it's hard to compete with the resources of the big dogs at the moment. Still GW and Reaper better watch out. This is the future and if they don't get on board it could be bad for them. I think it WILL reach a tipping point.
Detail is determined by scupt, many STLs are ones made for Filament printers who cant print the detail of resin, GW Scupts there minis BIG then shrinks them down before Mold process.
Hey, I had that same issue with my Mars when I first got it. I actually returned mine (because I had no idea what was happening) and got a replacement that has been working without a hitch for about 6 months now.
Dude! Thanks so much. This really helped!
I do not own a 3d printer so I have not tested their models, but I hear Titan Forge offers a great deal with their Patreon subscription.
I think it's around $10 and you get a ton of stl files for high quality minis.
Oh boy, I have been telling Gonzo we need one of these for our channel for research and stuff. Yeah, that’s it research. Thanks for making this, Nate. Excellent video.
Thanks for watching! Keep up the good work on the vids. :)
WASD20 thank you, sir. You are one of our favorite channels and we look up to all you do.
If you get a failed print or a partially failed print instead of straining the resin and scratching your FEP film, do this. While you are cleaning the build plate and the resin is sitting, settled, fire the screen using the test function. I usually go 45-60 seconds. This will create a "model" of the screen. Usually at least one corner peels up and can be easily removed from the vat taking any solids with it.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts
I have an ender 3 pro and I print both minis and terrain.. They come out so nice ..even the minis come out really nice if you do your homework and learn how the printer works. You really can get great prints on from these kind of prints.
Thanks for your video. Great for beginners.
Very informative! Thank you.
I'm torn... I love crafting, but I am intrigued by this new fangled invention of 3d printing... and indoor plumbing.
Great vid!!!
amazing video, one of the best for this topic. thank you!
Glad it helped!
Great video! One of your best.
Thanks!
There are SO many talented artists on patreon. So far my fav there is Raging heros infinite. The details on their modles are mind blowing and my Anycubic has no trouble printing them.
For terrain and whatnot I really love EC3D. You can find a lot of his stuff on kickstarter. All of his terrain and minis are designed to be printed with an FDM printer. But they are detailed enough to look fantastic on a resin printer as well.
for some tool reccomendations, I always have paper towels, a box of disposable gloves, a plastic scraper (one comes with the Anycubic), a metal paint scraper, and a pair of little wire snips. The plastic scraper is fantastic for removing failed prints from the FEP sheet on the bottom gently without damaging anything. The paint scraper is for getting stuff off of the bed. In my reaserch I've found that its ok if the bed is a little scratched. Finally the wire snips are fantastic at helping to remove stubborn supports and removing bits that are hard to reach with fingers.
Finally, don't ever pour resin down the drain! Make sure anything that touches resin that you are going to toss (paper towels, gloves, ect) sits out in the sun a bit so the resin cures. Otherwise someone or something could come into contact with uncured toxic resin.
Happy 3d printing!!!
Great video, mate! I'm printing with the Epax X1 (that choice was all about the factory leveled bed. Talk about a quality of life upgrade!!) for minis and an Ender 3 for terrain and other large items. Both were first printers for me, and I couldn't be happier with the pair. If you are going to get an fdm printer, I'd highly recommend an Ender 3. For the price, you'll be hard pressed to beat it, and it can print at an amazing 0.04 mm layer height. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experience!
Sorry folks, I have a typo in this comment. The Ender 3 will print at 0.08, not 0.04. That's what I get for being awake so late at night.... Cheers all!!
Good video on 3d printing
I may get one of those eventually
Imo the biggest downside to 3d printing is the need to paint them yourself. It's pretty good practice for my warhammer minis, though. Other than that, I've had a great experience with my 3d printer. Really makes prepping for a new game easy, especially since all the hobby shops nearby are shut down.
Use it to bootleg your Warhammer miniatures.
A lot of creatures can be bought around Halloween time or made with some ingenuity. Picked up a large spider from Amazon for $1.29 and repainted it and applied some leg hairs. Used it for a Spider Queen boss fight for a low level party. Her minions were a bag of spiders I repainted. A recent trip to Wendy's netted some super hero toys and the Lux Luthor repainted could be some sort of golem.
Really interesting
Thank you Nate.
Thank you for an informative video! I really like the idea of printing my own minis, but this showed that I'm not prepared to put down the work that goes in to it.
omg i just ordeterd 3D printer with miniatures in mind so thanks for this
Super informative - great video - thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I was just looking for a 3D printer for my 5e minis this is perfect
great video, thank you!
Really cool vis Nate. Really 👍
Elegoo sells rather pricy resins. I've recently found that Jayo has pretty cheap but very good quality resin. Both the regular and ABS like resins are awesome. They pretty much cut your cost estimate by 25 to 50%.
For auto supports, some have used the Prusa slicer to generate supports, then save the STL and import into Chitubox to slice. Prusa slicer has better support capability while Chitubox slices better. But, that's what some perfectionists claim..... :)
I have also seen this.
Totally agree. Artisan Guild is absolute tier1 for minis.
I am pretty happy with my longer orange 10 resin printer ( I still love my ender 3 fdm printer for doing terrain and such .
I like that you've drybrushed your prints, helps us see the detail a lot better. Thanks
Thanks, yeah it’s super hard to see much otherwise. Especially because I used transparent resin for some of these.
@@WASD20 Would you be willing to share your technique? I love the look and am not artistic enough for full-color painting. Thank you so much!
@@StephenJoiner - Just look up dry brushing. It's one of the easiest techniques in painting. I prime black, then take a crappy wide brush (some people use make-up brushes) and fill it with light gray paint. Get a paper towel and wipe most of the paint out. You'll be left with a dry brush that still has some gray paint in it. Then lightly and quickly brush all over the mini, and the paint will catch the raised edges.
@@WASD20 Thanks dude you are awesome!
You definitely want to invest in a flex plate, makes popping off prints from the build plate super easy.
Crippled God Foundry, ur right! good stuff - very good quality. Thanks for thr tip
I love minis and want to make a diorama of a small town built into a table. I love painting large monster like giants and behirs so im look into the elegoo saturn as its alot larger than the mars. I also want to make bits and bobs for cool costume ideas i have so im excited
I've been using an Anycubic Photon for the last year, but I've gotten one of the pre-orders for the Elegoo Saturn. Looking forward to the larger build plate once that arrives in September.
Oh man. That Elegoo Saturn. Yeeeah. Looks so good. Twice the price, roughly, but that build plate has 3 times the surface area. I'm leaning toward an Ender 3 next, but it's tempting.
Thank you for the information
You’re welcome!
I hate FDM now a days
prints always fail
tried to add a Bltouch and that was a nightmare.
RESIN
Mother of god I love it, plus I love making 3D minis.
You do need to replace screens and FEP films every so often.
True! That’s a cost I did not mention.
Not directly related to the video, but I like the re-purposing of the Tupperware pickle container for 3D printing.
you could try hollowing out larger prints. (hollowing out is a bit weirder on resin printers, but it works well enough)
as for regular 3dprinting stuff, the supports is something you can learn...or you can go for supportless builds.
Rocket Pig Games has a ton of good supportless builds, these are awesome, sure you are a bit limited on angles when building supportless stuff, but the rocket pig games minis generally look amazing.
Please don't immediately toss your supports into the trash without post curing them. They'll be safe to dispose after some time in the sun though. Thanks for the video! I love printing on my Elegoo Mars. I'm fortunate to have the money for it, so I sprung for the Anycubic Wash and Cure station along with the printer for the quality of life improvement.
You seem pretty knowledgeable so thought I would just ask
but how toxic is this resin exactly?
Like ya dont get in on you don't touch it and all of that but if you do get it on you by mistake is that like a "go wash your hands really fast in alcohol" or a "go to a hospital" situation
I've had an Ender 3 for about a year, now seriously considering pulling the trigger on either an ELEGOO or the new Creality resin printer... 3D printing is an addiction!
I have an ender 3 pro I use for terrain and larger minis and an elegoo for smaller character models. I like them both for what they are. Good compliments.
I use my FDM (Ender 3) for terrain almost exclusively. My Mars I use for minis.
Im an FDM fan. I use ABS when printing my minis that way I can vapor smooth them.
If you would of told me 30 years ago that one day in the future I could be printing my own models I would of thought it was like something out of the Star Trek replicator. Just nuts. I bet its addictive!
Sir, I speak for myself but I am sure that some may agree... Your head is absolutely memorizing! p.s. Keep up the great vids! In all seriousness, I do love them! lol
You should get the Anycubic Wash & Cure machine. So worth it. It's down to $165.00 on Amazon. At least I think that's what I paid for mine.
I used my old LEGOs from the 80s for my RPG games from time to time. Until i discovered that there are Weapons and Armors for Minifigures to buy. After that, i bought tons of used LEGO and other brands that are compatible with it (I'm not a purist at all) and sold the parts i had no use for.
What i like about this (you just have to live with the Toy look of the minis) is their versatility and that you can basically build any environment AND dissasemble/modify it extremely easy (with no additional costs btw.) if you find something better.
Thank you!!
Given the models I printed on my Creality resin printer, it paid for itself in the first week. It is definitely worth it.
It's not for me, but I am super chuffed that this possibility is out there for others, and stuff from like, Titanforge and Artisan Guild looks amazing. There are so many cool models. Being made out there!
I got into painting minis just before Easter, but I don't see myself going into 3D printing, as the number of models I need is so small.
Two thoughts to share:
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1> You can make yourself known as someone that prints custom minis for others (online and/or locally) and use your printer to make some money that way (as another use for it).
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2> You might find someone local that you can send your custom mini files to, and who will print them for you for a small fee (as another use of their printer).
I bought the Elegoo Mars for $259 back in May and I'm very happy with it, even though the price has dropped a lot since then I'm not even mad about it cause $260 is still a good price. I use Elego ABS-like resin because it is a lot more flexible than the standard and is $40 a liter. Luckily the slicing program tells you a pretty close estimate to time, resin used, and how much that resin is costing you. My cost is usually between $0.80 - $1.05 for a complete build plate of minis and I squeeze as many as I can which is around 8 depending on the pose give or take a couple mini's. I finally gave in when I realized I was going to be spending over 1k on minis in reapers kickstarter. A month and a half later I bought an Ender 3 pro for printing anything I cannot fit on my Elegoo plate. I have not bought a miniature from a store since, but I do pledge to a few sculptors on Patreon and I buy resin and filament as I need it, usually keeping 2 of each on hand. One of the best parts is you can print better quality mini's than most companies sell.
I use Fingernail polish remover to clean them. 100% acetone, I bought a few microfiber towels from Dollartree and have 1 in front of my printer which is in my bedroom. After it prints I hang it from the plate holder that came with the printer, allows you to hang the plate at an angle upside down to save as much resin, then I use the scraper to get it from the plate onto the towel and just swish it in acetone. Initially I used mean green and an ultrasonic cleaner but swishing it in the acetone, you don't even need the ultrasonic cleaner.
I pledged to Crippled God Foundry after watching your video. I didn't know they started a Patreon so thank you for that. Hopefully more people will find out so we can get to the pre-supported level of miniature's.
I want to see a new d&d campaign book come with the files to print the miniatures that appear in the book