Lashing in a Hob + Oven
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- How we installed a hob and oven with our little tips
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This video is for entertainment purposes only and is in no way intended as a guide or 'how to'.
10:15 fit the switches in the top corner so the shelf can still be used for storage, some tins could fit there. The gap above is wasted space.
I'm not fan of isolators in cupboards and wiring the appliance straight into them . My preferred methods is isolators above work tops and a 40 amp connect unit made for cookers but hat was the way I was taught many moons ago . But nick is quite correct. Regs does allow isolators inside cupboard and directly wired into them . Is heat resistant cable need the answer is no the outer casing of the oven is insulated from the rest of the oven and it barely gets warm. As I say give a 100 sparks the same job and your most probably get a 100 ways of doing the said job and they will all comply with regs . And a foot note you install all appliances according to the manufacturer instructions
Did an extension recently, installed a 6mm 32a for 7kw hob and a 2.5mm 20a for 4.1kw oven. Came back to 2nd fix and customer kicked off saying oven needed a 6mm supply as this is what was stated on website. Showed him the calc coming in at 17.8A and the 2.5mm factory flex on oven and he calmed down and it went ahead. Pain in the ass though.
Just run 6s and charge more ! We should have a list of moany customers- like a check a customer list .
That's why I keep my mouth shut unless I really know better 😅
Diversity in calculations for electric hobs and ovens
@@funky_junkie Exactly, I don't thinkni have ever used all 4 plates on my induction at level 9 all at once. With double ovens does the top oven with the grill element have a separate element for the oven or does it use the grill element for the oven also? Damn it's 11pm and I'm debating on going the van right now and getting my clamp meter to see what my oven actually pulls.
@@davey6024 I have a similar set up on a single 6mm cable on 32 amp. Never had a trip and I use both oven and hob like no tomorrow. Where have I gone wrong lol
I was hoping you were going to do a video like this. Thank you for all your content.
Adam's quote for the day 'Do you want me to guide that in'.......................
Hate doing these, cold tile floors and if your a big guy getting in those cabinets and screwing a nightmare ... but saying that better in cabinet than on the wall, great tip on keeping the cables long that really helps
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 You may not know this, but I think your video is the only one that shows how to connect a hob that isn't pre-wired out the box. All the other demonstrations on TH-cam are for connecting hobs with the cable already attached.
However, I noticed you used standard 6mm T&E. Are you not supposed to use heat resistant cable (H07RN-F) beneath a hob?
I always prefer to use H07 for the final connection.
It’s more flexible and I think easier to fish through holes etc. Also, I don’t like seeing T&E swinging in the breeze (not you will behind an oven, but I’ll know it’s there).
Agree, I don’t use t&e into appliances only rubber h07.
Nick only stocks 4 cable sizes/types 🤣
Fact
@@NBundyElectrical And 2 are left in the unit 😄
@@AndyK.1 to be fair, beyond 1, 2.5, 4, and 6mm, you rarely need much more in 90% of domestic installs.
Only issues with putting them isos flush with the shelf is that you can’t lift the shelf up a bit to get it out. Assuming they are still like that these days
Thinking of future lads and lasses, fair play 👍
One thing to mention is the cutout for the hob. The edge wasnt protected with heat reflective aluminium tape to stop the worktop getting damaged from radiant heat.
O really cheers pal 👍
@@tomspencer5731 lol I’ve put thousands of hobs n never had a customer come back to me u didn’t protect my worktop aswell as you’ve burnt my surface
No there was no foam seal fitted to hob either as this stops spillages getting under the hob as per manufacturers instructions lol
@@kaivicker8778 foam seal is most probably attached the the hob by manufacturer but I think its useless as foam tears easy.
10:15 I think I would have personally preferred one switch above the other.. It would use up less "shelf space" though realistically we are talking like 1 can worth of space ... but I wouldn't put anything above those switches, so it just becomes 'unused air space' so might as well put the other switch above.
The only sockets I tend to install inside kitchen cupboards but fixed to the wall is for the ignition on a gas hob and for the led lights wired to a FCU on 3amp but I'm gonna use a 1 amp fuse. 3 amp fcu is plenty for TVs and amplifiers. As it goes I might try the 1amp in my fcu for tv and amplifier.
Hiya sweetheart. Just from a kitchen fitter, save you a world of pain. Lay your drills flat. I was cringing with that drill with the holesaw on the oven. It's top heavy, slightest knock and them work tops are bolloxed. Maybe get your cool workmats out or double correx maybe... honestly I'm constantly bollocking sparks for it. The other is tools on steps with no floor protector down
Just sharing. Not being rude x
Yes, I had a joiner come round who immediately placed their tools on my new tops! I guess some only learn the hard way, when they have to fork out for new tops...
It's just a bit of complacency, we've all done it, and maybe got away with it. It happens when we're very busy, pulled from job to job. We end up disorganised and stuff scattered everywhere. I wasn't having a pop at Nick, just trying to save him from the potential world of pain. 👍
What is the point of isolator if they are not accessible? At that point if you want to turn off power just turn off the breaker at the fuseboard, these switches will be covered with stuff and never be used. Regulation for allowing them doesn't make sense, either they are required in accessible places or not required at all (generically requiring a means of isolation that could as well be the breaker itself in the fuse board, provided that that breaker only turns on only that appliance).
Manufacturer's instructions will sometimes request local isolation. They sometime spec cable type too H05 or H07.
Local isolation means exactly that and must be acceptable.... Your comments are correct 👍
The thumbnail gave me unrealistic expectations of what I would see in this video. :)
would you be able to add these on with a fused spur or will a whole new circuit with a new mcb/rcbo be needed for this sort of installation? thank you
6mm to isolator above work top. Then to a cooker splitter and power both hob and cooker from the one splitter. 👍. Saves money and cable
What kind of splitter?
Not a fan of isolators at the back of a cupboard. I personally put them at the front of the cupboard so when it's full of kitchen stuff you still have easy access to the isolates.
I come across stuff like that when the kitchen fitters have done the wiring.... Anything for the easiest.
Just my opinion
8:35 You say it's rarely turned off.
Why is there a switch in front of the ovens in England? Isn't it enough to switch off the MCB in the fusebox?
What happened to diversity calcs? Even with future expansion, 2x6mm2 is overkill. 6mm2 for hob, 2.5 (or 4) for hob.
Lashin in 😳, & when did you start muscling in on Liverpool home turf ? 🤷♂️😜🤣🤣
Should use heat resistant flex for hob not t and e. Great video tho mate
Wasn't being funny. Watched ya videos since you started mate 👍
Didn’t think you were mate 👍
Thanks dude appreciate it
@@NBundyElectrical top spark
Cracking work and thanks for sharing this with us take care
Well i might as well say it before more people do, you should use H07 for the hob 😳
noticed you connected both hob and cooker to the double pole switches and not to the connection unit on the wall. ?
I guess its floor boards or is it a solid floor and the 6mn cables rum downn the edge of the wall within safety zone? If this was the case then I feel it would be best to have an isolator above the worktop.
Can’t believe the CEF knew the history and still didn’t give you a good deal 🤣
CEF have a huge database of people they hate!
swell thumbnail. wouldn't that pic of adam go great engraved on a notepad?? 🤣
Lol that it would 😂😂
32A hob and a 9.5A oven
Could you use same circuit 6sq on a 32a mcb ?
All rings on hob would have to be on full and oven on max to reach total load of 41.5A
I’d have wired in in one circuit 4mm and used a dual outlet plate to supply two 45a switches. That’s ok up to about 16Kw total load on a 32A OCPD. I like to put the hob switch near to the hob above worktop I think with an induction hob when it all gets messy boiling over you should be able to hit the big switch rather than look for touch buttons on the hob. I’d use 2.5 or 4mm H07 from the outlet plate to the appliances
Oven manufacturers always like to make out they have a much much bigger load in Amps for some reason
Covering their arses lol...
Dam again 🤣
To this day I can't fathom why they don't file the sharp edges on oven cases, I mean how hard can it be to do that this day and age?! If you were born in Stoke, you'll always be a Stokey, duck! Inabit.
1 x 6mm is plenty, 2 x 6mms gives 30kw of cooking appliances😮 it aint gonna happen
Can I have the link for the group please
Check my community page on my channel dude
isolators been in cupboards n on top of wall units for years much easily n less messy
8:52 probably not the best thing to say when a bloke is bent down in front of you.
someone missed the point of first fix in that kitchen.......
Quality not quantity nicholous
When will we have another van video
Next month I think mate. Just too busy to do the next stage
First
Eye bleedy.
Twin and earth to the oven and hob is just wrong
Why?
@@roydowling2542 should be heat resistant flexible
@@Mainly_Electrical what reg states that?
Regs state you install according to the manufacturer instructions
@@roydowling2542 common sense states that
So much easier with 6mm flex ( HO7RNF)) you can buy it by the meter
Are you going to get 6mm h07 in the cooker cable clamp?
@@adoughertycontracting7243 certainly do