Hey man where u at in canada i have a landscaping company and youre the only guy on youtube actually teaching this trade. Please make videos of you banging out paver jobs, retaining walls all deadly time lapse hardscaping vids man. I WANA LEARN BRO
Great instructional especially with the knots! Going to have to use these when I re-string what's out there. Those concrete stakes look handy too. Some question for you: when grading the slope/elevation, do you *start* at the native base (in our case clay) and screed it as evenly as possible in addition to achieving the grading? I'm guessing you want to start there so that you have a better estimate on how much material you need to order? Then you just follow the slope of the line? Also, is there a general height that you'll set your lines to (e.g. the height at which there will be 2" of space between the line and your final top layer/pavers/etc)?
Yes as long as you get to the minimum depth you need based on the thickness of the base, sand and paver and whether it is pedestrian or vehicle traffic etc. I always like to set my strings to the finished height of whatever I am building, but you could always set them up from that if you prefer, as long as you are aware and everything is kept consistent you can play with these techniques to do whatever makes your job easiest!
Thank you for this video, it is so helpful! I have a question regarding staking. I'm hardscaping on solid limestone hills, many areas have only 1-3 inches of soil before stone, so I can't drive stakes into the ground. Do you have any suggestions on how I can secure the stakes?
Hey this can be a bit tricky for sure! You can use a hammer drill to quickly drill into the stone, then set some rebar as stakes. Or you could setup wooden batter boards instead.
@@HardscapeCanada Thank you! I'm staking my first project today :) got the proper knots down, let's see if my stakes hold up! I'm trying some concrete stakes and will try the rebar with hammer drill as you suggested if it isn't working!
Is there a proper way to position the knot on the rebar? In other words, there seem to be three variables. The rebar, the knot and the extended string. Assuming the rebar is in the correct spot, the knot can still be positioned anywhere from the far left side of a rebar post to the far right or anywhere in-between. Depending on where the knot ending is positioned, there's an effect on the overall positioning of the string layout. Yes, we're only talking millimeters but we are seeking precision which is why I ask. One follow up question..... I want to install pavers on the side of a home, extending from the foundation, to the property line. The side of the home has a chimney. The chimney prevents me from extending a string line from one end of the side of the house, to the other, without being obstructed by the chimney. Is there a workaround that still results in precise leveling on the left and right side of the chimney along the exterior wall? Great video. Thumbs up!
Hey great questions! The key with the knot positioning on the rebar is being consistent. So if you have the knot on the inside on one rebar stake, do the same on the others for a higher degree of accuracy. You can flip the second knot over so if need be to get the knot on the correct side. For the second part: yes you can setup the stringline just in front of the chimney, paralleling it on both ends from the house, and use that as your slope reference. You can simply screed the gravel etc over to the house with that string as your reference, or shoot heights with the laser and make marks on the house foundation on both sides as well as the chimney. Could snap a chalk line on this as well if you like. Let me know if that makes sense or you have any other questions!
Not being professional... once you set your slope with your string line, how do you transpose it on the ground while putting you base ? You keep measuring from the line with a tape ?
Yes exactly! As well as use an exact width of a 2x4 or screed level to get the height of your road base consistent under the string. Depending on your width of paver
Please do a video of how to use a string lines to determine gradient/ slope without the laser.
Thanks again!!!! The good news is I can practice this here in the house so I know how to do it when I get out there
Great idea!
First knot is a girth hitch, second is a clove hitch. Useful stuff.👍
Hey thank you!
Loop is larkshead.
@@deanaoxo or a cow hitch.
@@EdwardBIl never heard it called that, thanks. It's how kiters attach their lines to the kite.
@@deanaoxo probably a cowboy thing. From Wyoming :)
Hey man where u at in canada i have a landscaping company and youre the only guy on youtube actually teaching this trade. Please make videos of you banging out paver jobs, retaining walls all deadly time lapse hardscaping vids man.
I WANA LEARN BRO
Great video. Thanks so much.
Great video !
Nice one man, great information in here . Love from NZ
Thank you and great to connect with you!
so that is what a "simple' laser level looks like? You should see the one I bought for $5 from the Chinese store.
Great instructional especially with the knots! Going to have to use these when I re-string what's out there. Those concrete stakes look handy too. Some question for you: when grading the slope/elevation, do you *start* at the native base (in our case clay) and screed it as evenly as possible in addition to achieving the grading? I'm guessing you want to start there so that you have a better estimate on how much material you need to order? Then you just follow the slope of the line? Also, is there a general height that you'll set your lines to (e.g. the height at which there will be 2" of space between the line and your final top layer/pavers/etc)?
Yes as long as you get to the minimum depth you need based on the thickness of the base, sand and paver and whether it is pedestrian or vehicle traffic etc. I always like to set my strings to the finished height of whatever I am building, but you could always set them up from that if you prefer, as long as you are aware and everything is kept consistent you can play with these techniques to do whatever makes your job easiest!
Thank you for this video, it is so helpful! I have a question regarding staking. I'm hardscaping on solid limestone hills, many areas have only 1-3 inches of soil before stone, so I can't drive stakes into the ground. Do you have any suggestions on how I can secure the stakes?
Hey this can be a bit tricky for sure! You can use a hammer drill to quickly drill into the stone, then set some rebar as stakes. Or you could setup wooden batter boards instead.
@@HardscapeCanada Thank you! I'm staking my first project today :) got the proper knots down, let's see if my stakes hold up! I'm trying some concrete stakes and will try the rebar with hammer drill as you suggested if it isn't working!
Retaining wall lavels and step ups please 🙏
How do i ensure the pegs are dead inline?
Is there a proper way to position the knot on the rebar? In other words, there seem to be three variables. The rebar, the knot and the extended string. Assuming the rebar is in the correct spot, the knot can still be positioned anywhere from the far left side of a rebar post to the far right or anywhere in-between. Depending on where the knot ending is positioned, there's an effect on the overall positioning of the string layout. Yes, we're only talking millimeters but we are seeking precision which is why I ask. One follow up question.....
I want to install pavers on the side of a home, extending from the foundation, to the property line. The side of the home has a chimney. The chimney prevents me from extending a string line from one end of the side of the house, to the other, without being obstructed by the chimney. Is there a workaround that still results in precise leveling on the left and right side of the chimney along the exterior wall?
Great video. Thumbs up!
Hey great questions! The key with the knot positioning on the rebar is being consistent. So if you have the knot on the inside on one rebar stake, do the same on the others for a higher degree of accuracy. You can flip the second knot over so if need be to get the knot on the correct side.
For the second part: yes you can setup the stringline just in front of the chimney, paralleling it on both ends from the house, and use that as your slope reference. You can simply screed the gravel etc over to the house with that string as your reference, or shoot heights with the laser and make marks on the house foundation on both sides as well as the chimney. Could snap a chalk line on this as well if you like.
Let me know if that makes sense or you have any other questions!
need another part 2 please
Okay! Anything specificity you’d like to see?
The second knot is called a square knot
Not being professional... once you set your slope with your string line, how do you transpose it on the ground while putting you base ? You keep measuring from the line with a tape ?
Yes exactly! As well as use an exact width of a 2x4 or screed level to get the height of your road base consistent under the string. Depending on your width of paver
When asked, who teach you? The answer is Mr. Kevin Wilson👍
My laser machine lights are not working
Maybe a battery issue?
Why are the green light not showing