One frame is backwards in the extractor, the cells slope inward towards the center from the top , therefore always have bottom of frame leading in the direction of turning on this style of extractor. Nice, clever build
Thanks for the tip! I'm down to one hive but if I get some honey soon I'll try this out to see if it is more stable. Edit: Also, I can't believe I didn't think of that, knowing what I know....kicking myself.
Thanks for the video, I borrowed a large (expensive) 6 frame extractor, and at any speed it took total effort to keep the extractor from jumping all over. Your bucket extractor works as well as can be expected. I put my frames to be extracted in a tray in the sun before I decapped to warm. Again, thanks for your video.
Thanks for posting this. I tried the same extractor build this weekend, and immediately blew out a comb. Same situation you had here, with one very full comb and one half-completed comb (frame was half drawn, but what was built was all capped). I like the suggestions below to build a cross-piece to stabilize it. One other note, my local HW store only had two cross pieces of 3/4" PVC. The bottom of mine is a tee, with a hole drilled in the bottom and carriage bolt screwed into it. Carriage bolts have a curved top, so it makes the bottom very low-friction.
You have never heart about an uncapping fork? What crazy idea to extract the combs on this way! Extraction in a living room area i have never seen before!
I did build one with some slight modifications. I use frames with foundation, so I don't need to worry about blowing out the comb. I also added a lid with a hole in the middle to keep it centered. I cut the lid from the hole to one edge so I can remove it easier. Since I can max the speed the extraction is both fast and complete.
Thanks for the vid! Seeing is believing. I am still to make one. Pretty obviously - a two-handled, corded drill is the way to go (even a cheap one will do fine). Immediate mods came to mind: 1) out of 2x4 need to make a top bar with a centered hole in it and attach it to the top bucket - to hold the spinner part central at all times - so you don't have to spend attention on that 2) need to make the entire thing stable (not dancing on the floor) - just rachet it up to something heavy and stable - a pair of kettlebells may just work (or build a base to hold the thing in place)
Another mod: for the foundation-less frames - zip #2 or #4 wire screens to the spinner part - to NOT allow the combs to fly out - all it is. The frames will just push against the screens flat.
lid. adds lot of control also small bench seat bucket sets in saves on back and arms. works great. cut most of the tabs off the lid leave about 4 for easy access drill holes a little tighter on pivot points gets a lot more control. beautiful set up well dunn
did you consider adapting the top of the holder so you could fit it through a hole in a lid that would stabilize it as it spins... like the commercial versions that are attached top and bottom.. also looked like you could have made it slight narrower so it would hit the sides at all. I'm definitely going to use some of your design. Thank you.
Hay, try this, get a bucket lid and put a 3/4 hole in the center to help guide your slinging device. Cut the lid up so you don't need all of the, but just enough to keep your spinning device centered and maybe you could go faster. I hope this will help. Earl.......
Yes! Thanks. I did try that last year and it did help. I got a new (and more powerful) Makita drill for Xmas that allows me to set the speed. I'll try again this Spring and see if that makes it better too.
Simplest and cheapest way is to buy a used 6 speed food mixer and mount a piece of wood or metal across the top. then make a simple frame like you have made or one out of wood. On the base below frame holder mount another piece of wood for the frame to slot into the centre so it pivots as it spins without frame holder touching side. Using something like a plastic rain catching barrel is much taller and a large 2 inch tap can be mounted at the base along with sieves. The drum is much wider so a double frame could be mounted (one frame either side) so this means frames would empty both sides at the same time and not collapse. You would always start on low speed and speed up as they empty. Also much easier to clean being just one drum...
I bet if you would have looked at the switch on that corded drill you would have found a speed limiter. They are typically a round dial where your finger touches that controls how far you can stroke the switch. Even if that drill did not have one, you can find one that does.
This is a awesome idea but scrape off with a knife not a fork it will work better. I need to try this I was speculating in purchasing an extractor but not any more!! Loll
I'll try that! I just got a new drill for Christmas that is beefy and will let you lock the speed. I'm excited to give this another go and see if I have better luck.
I don't know what effect that would have. Due to centrifugal force, only the outside cells are going to release honey as it spins. The honey on the inside cells is just being forced deeper into the comb because they are facing backwards,
Just a thought... have you considered putting your electric drill on a dimmer switch? Then, you could tape the trigger into the "ON" position... and gradually move the dimmer switch until you increase the speed to where it extracts the honey. 🤷
A lid with a hole in the middle to keep it stable. And in capping both side before you start to extract the honey. Get a drill where you can adjust the speed. Best is around 100-120 RPM but most important. UNCAPP BOTH SIDE AND GET A LID ON. I made one myself from your video.
You need a bottom coupling glued to the center of your bottom bucket. Connect another pile to the bottom of your frame. Bingo, it all lines up. Pull that trigger and go man go.
I think for a prototype or first version, it's great. The little improvement suggestions are nice. I appreciate the video. Question. Can the drill go in reverse as fast? How warm was your room? Thick honey is a challenge.
Serena Peterson it was summertime and inside in my kitchen. Prob 75 degrees ish. My drill doesn't reverse. I still use this thing but it heats the drill up a lot and I have to pause while it cools. I like it because I don't have to waste comb, but it is a pain, I won't lie. Glad you enjoyed... Thanks for watching!
Herrick Spencer Check out the vid where I made it. Starting at about the 2 min mark and you will get the info. th-cam.com/video/zP4quOSP_ps/w-d-xo.html
It's called a hose barb. It's intended purpose is to connect vinyl tubing. There's a full parts list here: kiltedcraftworks.com/2015/10/03/diy-drill-powered-honey-spinner/ That's where I originally saw this build.
I crush and strain. Stage 1 is filter of window screen in Homer bucket set inside another Homer bucket but held up by a 2 gallon bucket with second filter between. Second filter is fashioned out of pantyhose. Works very well for my small op.
Jay Sergent I ended up buying a lid and just cutting a hole in the center. But I've been kind of frustrated with this contraption in the last year's. It absolutely burns up my drill so that I can only do about two frames in the drill so hot you can't touch it and it smoking. In fact this spring I just did crush and strain. I may see if I can tweak it over the summer and give it one last chance this fall.
@@IceManTX69 look up S Stroup on TH-cam. He has a great idea for an extractor that I think I'm gonna try. However, there will be a few modications , for instance, I think I'm gonna make a manual handle as it seems that would be smoother
I thought there is a little knob on the drill trigger that you can adjust for max speed? I thought I saw one but I think it was the reverse lever. Some drills have the max speed knob.
You could plug the drill into a variac (variable transformer) to limit the power going to the drill so you can just hold the trigger on full (I presume that would be more comfortable than using your finger to hunt for the right speed). You could make a frame and make a drill mount / clamp, hold the trigger on with a ziptie or something and control the speed through the variac. Or get even more fancy with a VFD.
Iron Golem Love the way you think. Since the drill is 8 amps does that mean I would need a 10a variac or could I get by with a 5a one? (Very limited electrical knowledge). Also variacs seem to be in the $60 range give or take which starts making this get cost prohibitive considering a cheap stainless steel extractor can be had for $100 give or take.
You should meet or exceed the drill's amp rating in the variac. So 10amp or better. As far as cost, sounds like the stainless steel extractor would be best. Is it crank or motor powered? The variac can be used on almost any plug-in AC motor to change a normally on-off to a speed adjustable motor. Perhaps just a frame and clamp for the drill, on the cheap.
Problem is when you get all the bits needed its cheaper to buy an extractor all the bits are quite expensive i went into bunnings and its cheaper to buy a 200 dollar tool for the job
flow hives are $600 +. Cut the comb on one side drain over food grade trays over night. The more the bees need to RE-build the foundation the more energy and honey they need.
with the price of the buckets, pvc , glue , paint strainer and the time to build it . its only 140$ for a metal 2 frame spinner that will last the rest of your life. not discrediting your video looks great! just saying
Yeah, prices were much lower back when I made this and it was still not saving a horrible amount. I have a love/hate relationship with this thing and it's a bit of pain in the ass.
Josh S i've come to realize that anytime someone starts a sentence with the word bro, it is never a good thing. Nevertheless, I understand your concern but I strain all of my honey through a paint strainer with a very fine mesh so I fail to see how plastic shavings would end up in the end product if they do exist.
![เจ็บที่ยังฮัก - ม่อน วรวิทย์ [ Official Mv ] จอนนี่มิวสิค](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KALIGSRSjFs/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for this awesome and honest video!!! You just saved me a bunch of time, money, and headache!!!
One frame is backwards in the extractor, the cells slope inward towards the center from the top , therefore always have bottom of frame leading in the direction of turning on this style of extractor. Nice, clever build
Thanks for the tip! I'm down to one hive but if I get some honey soon I'll try this out to see if it is more stable. Edit: Also, I can't believe I didn't think of that, knowing what I know....kicking myself.
Thanks for the video, I borrowed a large (expensive) 6 frame extractor, and at any speed it took total effort to keep the extractor from jumping all over. Your bucket extractor works as well as can be expected. I put my frames to be extracted in a tray in the sun before I decapped to warm. Again, thanks for your video.
Thanks for posting this. I tried the same extractor build this weekend, and immediately blew out a comb. Same situation you had here, with one very full comb and one half-completed comb (frame was half drawn, but what was built was all capped). I like the suggestions below to build a cross-piece to stabilize it.
One other note, my local HW store only had two cross pieces of 3/4" PVC. The bottom of mine is a tee, with a hole drilled in the bottom and carriage bolt screwed into it. Carriage bolts have a curved top, so it makes the bottom very low-friction.
You have never heart about an uncapping fork? What crazy idea to extract the combs on this way! Extraction in a living room area i have never seen before!
I did build one with some slight modifications. I use frames with foundation, so I don't need to worry about blowing out the comb. I also added a lid with a hole in the middle to keep it centered. I cut the lid from the hole to one edge so I can remove it easier. Since I can max the speed the extraction is both fast and complete.
Awesome mod. I need to do the lid thing on mine as well and give it another go.
Love a good DIY video......I'd been thinking about how to build my own and you gave me some important tips.....thanks...
Thanks for the vid!
Seeing is believing.
I am still to make one.
Pretty obviously - a two-handled, corded drill is the way to go (even a cheap one will do fine).
Immediate mods came to mind:
1) out of 2x4 need to make a top bar with a centered hole in it and attach it to the top bucket - to hold the spinner part central at all times - so you don't have to spend attention on that
2) need to make the entire thing stable (not dancing on the floor) - just rachet it up to something heavy and stable - a pair of kettlebells may just work (or build a base to hold the thing in place)
Another mod: for the foundation-less frames - zip #2 or #4 wire screens to the spinner part - to NOT allow the combs to fly out - all it is. The frames will just push against the screens flat.
Great ideas!
Image stabilization creates an interesting illusion out of your floor. LoL cool.
Looks like a D&D magic carpet.
A brace on top make it more stable, and you can spin it faster.
lid. adds lot of control also small bench seat bucket sets in saves on back and arms. works great. cut most of the tabs off the lid leave about 4 for easy access drill holes a little tighter on pivot points gets a lot more control. beautiful set up well dunn
that's a great idea! and why so few likes?
did you consider adapting the top of the holder so you could fit it through a hole in a lid that would stabilize it as it spins... like the commercial versions that are attached top and bottom.. also looked like you could have made it slight narrower so it would hit the sides at all. I'm definitely going to use some of your design. Thank you.
Yes, I did make a lid with a hole and it helped. Can't wait to try this year with my new drill that locks the speed. That was the biggest pain.
Thanks it has given me something to think about.
Hay, try this, get a bucket lid and put a 3/4 hole in the center to help guide your slinging device. Cut the lid up so you don't need all of the, but just enough to keep your spinning device centered and maybe you could go faster. I hope this will help. Earl.......
Nope, all honey is filtered, so he is all good
you could use the cover of the bucket with a hole in the center to get stable laps.
Yes! Thanks. I did try that last year and it did help. I got a new (and more powerful) Makita drill for Xmas that allows me to set the speed. I'll try again this Spring and see if that makes it better too.
@@IceManTX69 Very interesting your project. I like it. I want to see the new release.
Simplest and cheapest way is to buy a used 6 speed food mixer and mount a piece of wood or metal across the top. then make a simple frame like you have made or one out of wood.
On the base below frame holder mount another piece of wood for the frame to slot into the centre so it pivots as it spins without frame holder touching side. Using something like a plastic rain catching barrel is much taller and a large 2 inch tap can be mounted at the base along with sieves.
The drum is much wider so a double frame could be mounted (one frame either side) so this means frames would empty both sides at the same time and not collapse.
You would always start on low speed and speed up as they empty. Also much easier to clean being just one drum...
I bet if you would have looked at the switch on that corded drill you would have found a speed limiter. They are typically a round dial where your finger touches that controls how far you can stroke the switch. Even if that drill did not have one, you can find one that does.
It didn't have one. It was crap. I got a new Makita one for Christmas that I'm dying to try!
This is a awesome idea but scrape off with a knife not a fork it will work better. I need to try this I was speculating in purchasing an extractor but not any more!! Loll
I'll try that! I just got a new drill for Christmas that is beefy and will let you lock the speed. I'm excited to give this another go and see if I have better luck.
Asking for a friend, would it make more sense to uncap (scrape) both sides of the frame/comb to allow the honey to flow more freely?
I don't know what effect that would have. Due to centrifugal force, only the outside cells are going to release honey as it spins. The honey on the inside cells is just being forced deeper into the comb because they are facing backwards,
Just a thought... have you considered putting your electric drill on a dimmer switch? Then, you could tape the trigger into the "ON" position... and gradually move the dimmer switch until you increase the speed to where it extracts the honey. 🤷
Thanks! That is a good tip, but I was lucky enough to get a new corded drill for Xmas a couple of years ago that lets me set the speed.
I think you can buy drills with a dial on the switch for you to set up the full speed at full depression of the switch
Got me a new Makita drill for Christmas! Can't wait to try it out.
Need to ratchet strap that thing to a tree or something. Also slicing the caps off with a long knife might help to equalize the weight a little.
I'm your biggest fan
Is the pvc glue and primer food grade?
@@caru3257 Honey doesn’t contact joined surfaces but PVC has always been FDA-approved and never been subject to prohibitions of any sort.
another thing about a extrator need room on the bottom for honey to build and drain. The metal trash can works good
Most metal trash cans seem to be galvanized. Not a good idea
A lid with a hole in the middle to keep it stable. And in capping both side before you start to extract the honey. Get a drill where you can adjust the speed. Best is around 100-120 RPM but most important. UNCAPP BOTH SIDE AND GET A LID ON. I made one myself from your video.
Dag Andreassen hey, that's great to hear!
Adding a cross piece to stabilise the frame holder will remove a lot of the wobble. Nice build
Adding a cover may keep it steadier
How about a separate speed control for the drill?
Good video
A cover with a hole did help. I just got a new drill for Christmas with a speed controller. Hoping to try it out if I get some honey soon.
Your honey looks kinda thick too, some kinds of honey just don't spin well (such as heather)
You need a bottom coupling glued to the center of your bottom bucket. Connect another pile to the bottom of your frame. Bingo, it all lines up. Pull that trigger and go man go.
I think for a prototype or first version, it's great. The little improvement suggestions are nice. I appreciate the video. Question. Can the drill go in reverse as fast? How warm was your room? Thick honey is a challenge.
Serena Peterson it was summertime and inside in my kitchen. Prob 75 degrees ish. My drill doesn't reverse. I still use this thing but it heats the drill up a lot and I have to pause while it cools. I like it because I don't have to waste comb, but it is a pain, I won't lie. Glad you enjoyed... Thanks for watching!
What is the arbor used on the end of the PVC pipe? I can't find anything like it to attach the drill.
Herrick Spencer Check out the vid where I made it. Starting at about the 2 min mark and you will get the info.
th-cam.com/video/zP4quOSP_ps/w-d-xo.html
It's called a hose barb. It's intended purpose is to connect vinyl tubing.
There's a full parts list here: kiltedcraftworks.com/2015/10/03/diy-drill-powered-honey-spinner/ That's where I originally saw this build.
I crush and strain. Stage 1 is filter of window screen in Homer bucket set inside another Homer bucket but held up by a 2 gallon bucket with second filter between. Second filter is fashioned out of pantyhose. Works very well for my small op.
If it's still throwing honey out the top why don't you try another spacer on top?
Jay Sergent I ended up buying a lid and just cutting a hole in the center. But I've been kind of frustrated with this contraption in the last year's. It absolutely burns up my drill so that I can only do about two frames in the drill so hot you can't touch it and it smoking. In fact this spring I just did crush and strain. I may see if I can tweak it over the summer and give it one last chance this fall.
@@IceManTX69 look up S Stroup on TH-cam. He has a great idea for an extractor that I think I'm gonna try. However, there will be a few modications , for instance, I think I'm gonna make a manual handle as it seems that would be smoother
Nice vid dude also you know me from ps4
I thought there is a little knob on the drill trigger that you can adjust for max speed? I thought I saw one but I think it was the reverse lever. Some drills have the max speed knob.
Iron Golem I just went and checked the drill hoping for the best. Unfortunately I must have the cheap model. It only has forward and reverse.
You could plug the drill into a variac (variable transformer) to limit the power going to the drill so you can just hold the trigger on full (I presume that would be more comfortable than using your finger to hunt for the right speed). You could make a frame and make a drill mount / clamp, hold the trigger on with a ziptie or something and control the speed through the variac.
Or get even more fancy with a VFD.
Iron Golem Love the way you think. Since the drill is 8 amps does that mean I would need a 10a variac or could I get by with a 5a one? (Very limited electrical knowledge). Also variacs seem to be in the $60 range give or take which starts making this get cost prohibitive considering a cheap stainless steel extractor can be had for $100 give or take.
You should meet or exceed the drill's amp rating in the variac. So 10amp or better. As far as cost, sounds like the stainless steel extractor would be best. Is it crank or motor powered? The variac can be used on almost any plug-in AC motor to change a normally on-off to a speed adjustable motor.
Perhaps just a frame and clamp for the drill, on the cheap.
Problem is when you get all the bits needed its cheaper to buy an extractor all the bits are quite expensive i went into bunnings and its cheaper to buy a 200 dollar tool for the job
Great idea.. .but i think i'll go with flow hives. This just looks way too painful.
PimpinJac plastic buckets $20 vs Flow hive $600
flow hives are $600 +. Cut the comb on one side drain over food grade trays over night. The more the bees need to RE-build the foundation the more energy and honey they need.
It's always easier to have money:) I'm not begrudging you having it, just saying it's not an option for everyone.
Thank you that's good.but the motor power it's slow.
with the price of the buckets, pvc , glue , paint strainer and the time to build it . its only 140$ for a metal 2 frame spinner that will last the rest of your life. not discrediting your video looks great! just saying
Yeah, prices were much lower back when I made this and it was still not saving a horrible amount. I have a love/hate relationship with this thing and it's a bit of pain in the ass.
@@IceManTX69 oh yes true I did not take into account pre covid prices.
Even tho I only watched none of your vids
I was wondering why my honey looked orange with sugar frosting
What does you wife say about doing this in the house?
Before or after I clean up all the mess? LOL
Это русский?
Lolol
Bro... look at your honey under a microscope.... I'll grantee it's full of plastic shavings. Find a better way. Aloha
Josh S i've come to realize that anytime someone starts a sentence with the word bro, it is never a good thing. Nevertheless, I understand your concern but I strain all of my honey through a paint strainer with a very fine mesh so I fail to see how plastic shavings would end up in the end product if they do exist.
Josh S Bro, I guarantee it does not. All honey (except cut comb) is strained. I think you need to restrict your comments to subjects you know about