Here's how you use this stuff -- Hands down -- If you use it the right way you'll get EXCELLENT RESULTS! Now check out the Merchandise Shelf above this comment and help support My Friend Pete and DIY AUTO SCHOOL!
I have a 1970 Boss 302 Mustang and I need the Body restored . Can't get it restored in Salt Lake City as I would like it got to find somebody to do like Pete
so after this dries and you block sand it, what are you going to spray on the bare metal spots before spraying the 2k primer ? spot prime with self etching primer ? since it dries quick, use a red scotch-brite then 2k ??
@@michaelmaresh1972 I bet you Pete will l lightly sand it with 180? and not break through to metal . . Watch the video , he explains in detail that his intent is this spot prime ito cover the metal before his 2k ( 2-3 coats ) which is going to be the final sand . His prior bodywork is done and straight as an arrow already !!! … .. anyone who reads this and wants to learn the process , go back to Pete’s playlists on all bondo / bodywork videos …. Pete says all layers on a car is like an onion 🧅!!! you peel off layers and when u add layers step by step and feather everything out and do it right , no 👋 wavey wavey 😎
Pete has a way of making you pay attention to what he is teaching. Your mind isn't going to drift off while he is lecturing you on the correct way to do something.
I been painting for 20yrs & I love watching & still learning from my friend Pete & knowing your just like the rest of us 95% of what’s in your shop is what’s in mine. Thanks Pete!!
I agree My friend Pete. I just took over a 1969 rs/ss job and it was totally covered with G2 from a previous body shop . Tons of block sanding. Keep up the great work 👍👍
My wife always calls you "shouty man", but I love your knowledge and content. I wish you had that right moment in life to open that college, I would have attended it. Happy New Year Minnie and Pete.
Pete, this was a very informative video on this product and will show up online when looking for “G2” during a search. With 34 comments so far, I agree with almost everyone. You are doing it right based upon experience and other jokers tell folks no you spray the entire car, waisting product, sandpaper, time and still have a wavy car with an $890 gun that they plugged! Yeah! That’s for teaching us the “Right Way!” God bless those who help themselves and share! That is you buddy…
100% exactly the information I needed in the phase of my current project. Excellent, and I like that you drive the “don’t do” points with emphasis. Thanks for the time you take to make these informative videos.
Thanks Pete, that information will save me a ton of time and unnecessary manual labor along with materials. My brain and my body thank you as well. Have a well deserved amazing day.
Been watching you for years now Pete. Painting my own cars and for friends. Used the old epoxy primer and feather fill products that you are talking about. You're a no bullshit guy and there are a lot of us out here that really appreciate that you share your knowledge with us. Doing a 70' Corvette that I have owned for 35 years. I will replay your video on priming that car at least a dozen more times before priming this car for topcoats. Thanks again Pete!
This video was a revelation to me, I’ve been dragging ass forcing this stuff to spray through a regular 2.0 tip primer gun for years, I went and bought one of those harbor freight guns and it sprays just like regular 2k, flows out nice and everything. Awesome tip
I want take the time to thank you for tips and proper techniques and showing and explaining the correct ways I’ve really learned a lot from you God Bless you Pete
Hello Pete thank you so much for showing us the proper way of doing things I pray to God everything goes good for your knee surgeries my father did paint body work all his life he went to school for it down in Tampa he died when I was in junior high school he never got to show me all of the techniques and the reason why there was always those spots where he didn't do the whole car I never knew why thank you so much we love you man I hope everything goes good for you
Pete is right as per usual. Very good tutorial. I have a tech tip to add based on my many years of experience .. Only ONE coat of epoxy primer is needed Give the epoxy ample time to flash prior to applying the polyester. (Press your thumbnail into epoxy to check for hardness) If you apply too much epoxy or don’t give it enough time to dry, the polyester will WRINKLE under the polyester and ruin your day.
DO EXACTLY WHAT HE SAYS,your work will turn out just like his,he is a master bodyman,i've done a lot of cars doing restoration,with his tips i've made a lot of money,thanks PETE you hard working dude,don't miss the heat of dallas area do you,great job,thanks for teaching what you've learned,don't stop, these kids are lost in the fog,ITS ALL LEARNABLE CHILDREN
HA - I have missed you yelling at me Pete - for some reason your videos have not been coming up on my TH-cam feed - good to see a new video. Good idea using the pictures. Have a safe and nice day all. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
Another great informational video from My friend Pete. I’ve been using those types of guns for primer before there ever was a Harbor Freight. I always called them my primer guns. Cheap good gun for the right application.
Great vid Pete! Retired 30 year body man now just tinkering in the garage. Can't wait to try this stuff. Only wish we had it back in the day! Good luck with the knees.
Nice to find a channel that is about using body products instead of selling them, thanks need all the good info I can get for my project a 73 charger that's really in need of help you know the ones, looks good for a few years and then the Bondo starts to fall apart
Thanks for the straight dope on this product and how to use it, along with the prep before you apply it. Once again my friend Pete provides the real skinny on products, helping me as a DIY guy.
Thank you Pete!!!... you make it so more understandable... the way you are doing it... ty! I'll keep watching your videos.. so I didn't miss anything... Great job teaching us ... just a little of you in all of us that wants to learn... Thanks my friend!
That's crazy because I was just about to spray my entire foxbody with this stuff per instructed by other auto body videos. Glad I always watch my friend Pete first. By the way cool name "Pete" my foxbody name is "Squeeky Pete"
I worked in the fiberglass repair for 30 yrs, we used a ester based primer which required a catalyst to cure. Man did that stuff stink! Once cured, it was sandable. We also used pressure pots (Hot Pot) where the material was forced out of the pot through a hose to the gun.. This is due to the thickness of the gelcoat material being sprayed and the use of a half gallon pot.. So, with the pot hooked onto your belt, you have complete freedom to paint with just the weight of the gun in your hand.
Ive used this polyester G2 in the same way on a fiberglass body kits and this is a good product. Eliminates dye back on fiberglass and excellent blocking power.
You got right Scott. How many engines from Summit? Why the wrong bell housing for that engine / transmission combination? If customer service got it right once, I would be shocked. I am surprised that elastic holds up new under britches anymore. It is crazy. In the garden center looking to control dandelions! Not hard… Teenage workers ask and after 3 stacks turns to me & says; “Dandelions are good for you soil, the grow deep roots that let air & water into the yard!” WTF! I said; Girl, you like these, dig them and plant in you mom & dads yard and we’ll both be happy.” I left!
Pete This is my first comment, but I've watched a lot of your videos, THANK You for all the great information, I'm restoring a 65 chevy pickup and you are helping me out a lot. good luck with the knee and keep up the great videos.
Nothing wrong with priming the whole car with it. If you want to block the car nice and straight. Have been using these products for many years and you can block a car much straighter with polyester primer vs urethane primer. Urethane primer is much softer. been doing high end restoration work for 30+ years and polyester primer works the best all the way through the job to the finish sand and yes you can wet sand it, just wipe it down good and let it dry overnight. The epoxy primer must dry for 48+ hours before you apply this primer or you will have issues down the road because epoxy is very slow drying and you do not want to cap it off before it is ready. I learned the hard way along time ago about rushing products.
All epoxy primer/sealers a different. But always following the product sheet is best. It creates a hard waterproof surface that other products will adhere to correctly as long as it’s cleaned and within the open window. I prefer epoxy first on clean bare metal as it is like plastic wrap sealer it from moisture and rock chip after placed in service. I have seen the tiny chips on the hood or lower panels with rock damage. Sand into them and find a 10 inch spiderweb of rust fingers across a panel. It’s truly disheartening to find. That lead me to epoxy after a chemical strip. I am doing one last complete on a 67 C10 for me. I saw prices going up each week at the box stores and bought more & more. With 16 gallons, should do all with methylene chloride content. No wax paper or plastic. Painting on and paint comes off. Thanks EPA for being so smart!
I used feather fill in the early 80's only on body repair areas and Laqed the rest,if you did not use it right FF will lift,it is a great product but not needed for overall coverage,watch the time or junk the gun!!!😊😊😊
Why? Because he knows more than the average paint slinger? Start to finish over 14 years on TH-cam. What’s your channel? I would like to learn for my own project. ASE Master, 78. ADCelco instructor, tech seminar leader in 7 states, retired from Raytheon.
Brilliant video Pete ... better the another guy I saw going on bare metal ...... good to see your showing us how to do it right ....... thank you rich U.K.
I'm sanding down the OAI (Ram Air) hood on my 72 Cutlass 442I'm sanding the old paint off and plan on repainting the hood as well as the rest of the car with Duracryl Viking Blue metallic lacquer paint and clear coating it with their High Performance clear. I will be using KONDAR red Oxide primer on the rest of the car as well as the hood. I've been told that to avoid wavy finish, I need to use Feather Fill on the hood and block it down for a smooth flat finish. Will the Feather Fill play nice with lacquer paint? Also, years ago when I used to paint cars as a hobby, I used a Bink's number 7 knock off and had good results. I don't want to use that one now since once I used fish eye eliminator in it so it's contaminated. I have a Bink's 2001 with an agitator cup that has never been used, a new Devilbiss Finish Line HVLP gun and a new AEROPRO HVLP SPRAY GUN G6600 HVLP gun! I've never used an HVLP gun so I was wondering if there will be any issues using one for metallic lacquer? Some on car forums say it will be an issue getting the flakes to flow out? Some say to thin down the last coat with lacquer thinner and it will flow everything out. What say you Pete.....which of these guns would you use for metallic lacquer paint? I'm 70 years old and not as confident as I was 25 years ago! I enjoy your videos a lot!
Pete I used the primer you been using and I must say it does not crack up like some of the 2k primers do. when you are blocking your panels do you use a sealer before you paint? what is your favorite paint?
Since the G2 is a basically a polyester type resin using MEKP to kick it, instead of using acetone to reduce it use styrene. I use styrene to reduce polyester blue resin for our surfboard laminating. It’s better. It cures like the resin. I’ve used 50:50 resin:styrene and it all goes off nice and cures fine. You can’t do that reducing with acetone. Test some out first. I’ve cut the feather fill with styrene. It works. Some sellers will argue this. Try it out and see.
I've been using G2 primer about 4-5 years now on all my custom hand layed fiberglass parts that I make. I use the starting line devilbiss gun with 1.8 nozzle. I use acetone to clean it right after spraying and it's lasted me since 2016. I do use a strainer but I don't reduce the primer most the time as long as I shoot it right away I'm good. It drys fast.
I been using G2 for about 5 years also and I also use the devilbiss 1.8 or Eastwood gun 1.7 but I do thin it with acetone 1 oz for every 1 quart of primer and it flows out just perfect,and I blow acetone thru the gun after every quart of primer ,and clean my gun right away after I’m done and it’s been working just perfect for me,
Devilbiss Finish Line with 2.2 nozzle, reduce with acetone, sprays out great, but i spray THE WHOLE CAR, because I block THE WHOLE CAR, at least twice!!!
@@joedirt2166 Have you guys seen the price increase on the G2 primer now, I was paying $80 a gallon now its $160. Pist I bought the upol stuff Pete Showed in one of his latest vids and Im going try it out at $90 a gallon.
Excellent advice I also use the cheap guns for primer. It does a good job and like you mentioned, it’s a throw away. I try and keep the pots and clean them for future use. Thank you for some great down to earth videos. If you have time I do however have a question. I do hobby work. Many times when I am welding in a patch panel, it may be a while before I can get back to finishing it up. Should I be cleaning it and spraying maybe a self etching primer over it to protect it from flash rust? Or should I just leave it until I can get back to it and clean it then and prime? Is there and should I use an etching epoxy is there even is such a thing? And last but not least. Is there a good filler to be used over bare metal? So many times I have seen paint jobs where the filler separated from the panel. Thanks again
Pete your the man when it comes to painting cars. I appreciate all your videos, you have helped me so much. Quick question, Once you spot prime with Feather Fill G2 you block sand those spots and they you spray two to three coats of high build primer. Will I need to block sand that or can I move straight into sealer then color. Again thank you so much for all your videos.
Awesome video. Before you get to do anything you showed in the video. I assume repairs and the block sand the hole car. So do you use 80 Grit then ?? Next?
No BS Pete, works hard, get it done. Speaks true words 👌 Pete, ready to do the full Epoxy coat on my car, no doors or trunk on it, where do you recommend i start? Do the door jams and the other pain in the arse areas then larger panels .roof/quarters or the other way around? Also can i let the Epoxy tack up then shoot the 2k Acrylic over?
Hi, really informative video...i have one question for you since you sems very knowing your stuff, is it ok to apply "metal direct" polyester primer on a surface thats been sprayed with etching primer in its past life. thanks.
That cheap little gun sprayed pretty well. I only had a quart of poly primer for my current project, so I had no choice but to spray it only on the Worst areas. But I have seen videos like you said of spraying the whole car...
Here's how you use this stuff -- Hands down -- If you use it the right way you'll get EXCELLENT RESULTS! Now check out the Merchandise Shelf above this comment and help support My Friend Pete and DIY AUTO SCHOOL!
What about VP2050?? Have you ever used it? 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I have a 1970 Boss 302 Mustang and I need the Body restored . Can't get it restored in Salt Lake City as I would like it got to find somebody to do like Pete
so after this dries and you block sand it, what are you going to spray on the bare metal spots before spraying the 2k primer ? spot prime with self etching primer ? since it dries quick, use a red scotch-brite then 2k ??
@@michaelmaresh1972 I bet you Pete will l lightly sand it with 180? and not break through to metal . . Watch the video , he explains in detail that his intent is this spot prime ito cover the metal before his 2k ( 2-3 coats ) which is going to be the final sand . His prior bodywork is done and straight as an arrow already !!! … .. anyone who reads this and wants to learn the process , go back to Pete’s playlists on all bondo / bodywork videos …. Pete says all layers on a car is like an onion 🧅!!! you peel off layers and when u add layers step by step and feather everything out and do it right , no 👋 wavey wavey 😎
@@jimhoran5445 thats the stuff Sylvester uses and he swears by it
Pete has a way of making you pay attention to what he is teaching. Your mind isn't going to drift off while he is lecturing you on the correct way to do something.
I been painting for 20yrs & I love watching & still learning from my friend Pete & knowing your just like the rest of us 95% of what’s in your shop is what’s in mine.
Thanks Pete!!
I agree My friend Pete. I just took over a 1969 rs/ss job and it was totally covered with G2 from a previous body shop . Tons of block sanding. Keep up the great work 👍👍
My friend Pete you're the greatest. And thank you for your service.
Than, you. I a m 63. Just built a garage. I used to do auto ody repair 30 yeas ago. I just started a c10 build. Thanks again
My wife always calls you "shouty man", but I love your knowledge and content. I wish you had that right moment in life to open that college, I would have attended it.
Happy New Year Minnie and Pete.
Pete, this was a very informative video on this product and will show up online when looking for “G2” during a search. With 34 comments so far, I agree with almost everyone. You are doing it right based upon experience and other jokers tell folks no you spray the entire car, waisting product, sandpaper, time and still have a wavy car with an $890 gun that they plugged! Yeah!
That’s for teaching us the “Right Way!” God bless those who help themselves and share! That is you buddy…
Thanks Pete again for sharing your gift and technical information so that we can get it right!! You’re awesome… glad you doing well after surgery
The G2 TDS says no bare metal larger than 1” in diameter, in other words, no bare metal. I use PPG DP40 epoxy and Evercoat G2. Good video!
100% exactly the information I needed in the phase of my current project. Excellent, and I like that you drive the “don’t do” points with emphasis. Thanks for the time you take to make these informative videos.
The auto body master is back at it again. It’s like the Chevrolet saying, “the best never rest.”
Thanks Pete, that information will save me a ton of time and unnecessary manual labor along with materials. My brain and my body thank you as well. Have a well deserved amazing day.
Pete my friend Pete I know why I like you, your just like me! Excellent job as always.
Your all of the above,that's why we've been seeing ur vids for at least 7 yrs for me.
Been watching you for years now Pete. Painting my own cars and for friends. Used the old epoxy primer and feather fill products that you are talking about. You're a no bullshit guy and there are a lot of us out here that really appreciate that you share your knowledge with us. Doing a 70' Corvette that I have owned for 35 years. I will replay your video on priming that car at least a dozen more times before priming this car for topcoats. Thanks again Pete!
Same for me …. Pete’s process is the bible on body n paint real world 🌎!!!!!
This video was a revelation to me, I’ve been dragging ass forcing this stuff to spray through a regular 2.0 tip primer gun for years, I went and bought one of those harbor freight guns and it sprays just like regular 2k, flows out nice and everything. Awesome tip
I want take the time to thank you for tips and proper techniques and showing and explaining the correct ways I’ve really learned a lot from you God Bless you Pete
Hello Pete thank you so much for showing us the proper way of doing things I pray to God everything goes good for your knee surgeries my father did paint body work all his life he went to school for it down in Tampa he died when I was in junior high school he never got to show me all of the techniques and the reason why there was always those spots where he didn't do the whole car I never knew why thank you so much we love you man I hope everything goes good for you
Pete is right as per usual. Very good tutorial.
I have a tech tip to add based on my many years of experience ..
Only ONE coat of epoxy primer is needed
Give the epoxy ample time to flash prior to applying the polyester. (Press your thumbnail into epoxy to check for hardness)
If you apply too much epoxy or don’t give it enough time to dry, the polyester will WRINKLE under the polyester and ruin your day.
Haha yup. I learned the hard way. Ruined 2 days of work and added another 6 days of work to strip it all down again
My friend Pete is AWESOME!!!
Hey my friend Big Pete , your the man , I take my hat off for you🙏💪🏻👊🏻
DO EXACTLY WHAT HE SAYS,your work will turn out just like his,he is a master bodyman,i've done a lot of cars doing restoration,with his tips i've made a lot of money,thanks PETE you hard working dude,don't miss the heat of dallas area do you,great job,thanks for teaching what you've learned,don't stop, these kids are lost in the fog,ITS ALL LEARNABLE CHILDREN
HA - I have missed you yelling at me Pete - for some reason your videos have not been coming up on my TH-cam feed - good to see a new video. Good idea using the pictures. Have a safe and nice day all. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
Thank you my friend Pete for giving us the details....we are watching and learning....thank you thank you thank you....
Another great informational video from My friend Pete.
I’ve been using those types of guns for primer before there ever was a Harbor Freight.
I always called them my primer guns.
Cheap good gun for the right application.
You are a no nonsense fella with that mess around and find out attitude, loving the channel and the info dude, thumbs 👍
Great vid Pete! Retired 30 year body man now just tinkering in the garage. Can't wait to try this stuff. Only wish we had it back in the day! Good luck with the knees.
Loud, proud , and a good human- thanks Pete!
Nice to find a channel that is about using body products instead of selling them, thanks need all the good info I can get for my project a 73 charger that's really in need of help you know the ones, looks good for a few years and then the Bondo starts to fall apart
Thanks for the straight dope on this product and how to use it, along with the prep before you apply it. Once again my friend Pete provides the real skinny on products, helping me as a DIY guy.
Thank you Pete!!!... you make it so more understandable... the way you are doing it... ty! I'll keep watching your videos.. so I didn't miss anything... Great job teaching us ... just a little of you in all of us that wants to learn... Thanks my friend!
Been watching since 2014 really... Great on you and your channel... Love It!!!
That's crazy because I was just about to spray my entire foxbody with this stuff per instructed by other auto body videos. Glad I always watch my friend Pete first. By the way cool name "Pete" my foxbody name is "Squeeky Pete"
Old Pete is back 👍 Awesome more stuff like this!
A amigo Pete thanks for your time that primer is lite liquid primer that stuff is verry good cover the lows good 🤞👍 amigo pete
I love this channel I learn something new every time!
Hey Pete! Nice video. When you sand the Evercoat Feather Fill G2 spot prime! how do you avoid sanding the non sanding Epoxy sealer?
Thanks for yet another killer vid Pete... take it easy and praying Gods hands on the surgeon doing your knee and a God Speed recovery in Jesus Name...
Thank you My Friend Pete!
I laughed my ass off at some of the rants but Pete is definitely solid! Keep going my guy!!
I worked in the fiberglass repair for 30 yrs, we used a ester based primer which required a catalyst to cure. Man did that stuff stink! Once cured, it was sandable. We also used pressure pots (Hot Pot) where the material was forced out of the pot through a hose to the gun.. This is due to the thickness of the gelcoat material being sprayed and the use of a half gallon pot.. So, with the pot hooked onto your belt, you have complete freedom to paint with just the weight of the gun in your hand.
Great job my friend Pete
Ive used this polyester G2 in the same way on a fiberglass body kits and this is a good product. Eliminates dye back on fiberglass and excellent blocking power.
De Puerto Rico David Dios le bendiga tremendo trabajo
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience Mr.Pete
Pete your the man who cares about they thoughts about u Sir ur a beast at what u do honest direct to the point and definitely inspirational 👏 👍
Pete
,the professor of primer
Thanks Pete!! I did my work as instructed by you and it comes out FLAWLESS..
Im just learning and Sir I wish I found this video about week ago. 100% right on about the epoxy primer! Great video Thank you
Man, this video is so helpful for me and my current project. Thank you professor.
OUR FRIEND PETE!!!!!
Praying for you & Minnie and the doctor for a successful surgery on your knees
I saw the episode when you bought this car with the customer. I've been looking and waiting to see this car get built out forever it seems.
You got right Scott. How many engines from Summit? Why the wrong bell housing for that engine / transmission combination? If customer service got it right once, I would be shocked. I am surprised that elastic holds up new under britches anymore. It is crazy.
In the garden center looking to control dandelions! Not hard…
Teenage workers ask and after 3 stacks turns to me & says; “Dandelions are good for you soil, the grow deep roots that let air & water into the yard!” WTF! I said; Girl, you like these, dig them and plant in you mom & dads yard and we’ll both be happy.” I left!
Have a nice day Pete regards from Holland
(in my inner-hillbilly voice) My Papaw used to say "Plain talk is easy understood.) Really appreciate these videos!
Thank you Pete for all these videos you make for us.
Thank you for putting up videos , forget the haters . I got a new phone and had to start a new you tube account.
Pete This is my first comment, but I've watched a lot of your videos, THANK You for all the great information, I'm restoring a 65 chevy pickup and you are helping me out a lot. good luck with the knee and keep up the great videos.
THANKS PETE! Very good information. This will help me in my '50 Chev panel truck frame up build. Keep up the good work my friend.
Pete been watching you for a long time. FU to the naysayers. You point out valuable information every "Class" Keep the "Salteeness"
Nothing wrong with priming the whole car with it. If you want to block the car nice and straight. Have been using these products for many years and you can block a car much straighter with polyester primer vs urethane primer. Urethane primer is much softer. been doing high end restoration work for 30+ years and polyester primer works the best all the way through the job to the finish sand and yes you can wet sand it, just wipe it down good and let it dry overnight. The epoxy primer must dry for 48+ hours before you apply this primer or you will have issues down the road because epoxy is very slow drying and you do not want to cap it off before it is ready. I learned the hard way along time ago about rushing products.
All epoxy primer/sealers a different. But always following the product sheet is best. It creates a hard waterproof surface that other products will adhere to correctly as long as it’s cleaned and within the open window. I prefer epoxy first on clean bare metal as it is like plastic wrap sealer it from moisture and rock chip after placed in service.
I have seen the tiny chips on the hood or lower panels with rock damage. Sand into them and find a 10 inch spiderweb of rust fingers across a panel. It’s truly disheartening to find. That lead me to epoxy after a chemical strip. I am doing one last complete on a 67 C10 for me. I saw prices going up each week at the box stores and bought more & more. With 16 gallons, should do all with methylene chloride content. No wax paper or plastic. Painting on and paint comes off. Thanks EPA for being so smart!
I used feather fill in the early 80's only on body repair areas and Laqed the rest,if you did not use it right FF will lift,it is a great product but not needed for overall coverage,watch the time or junk the gun!!!😊😊😊
Gotta love my friend Pete!
Praying for you Pete ,get the home health you will be glad you did.
Man, I wish I could work with you Pete. Thanks for the content buddy. Hope your knees are going in ok.
2 more EXTREMELY PAINFUL DAYS and one knee will be replaced... Thanks for thinking of me!
His channel should be renamed "Pete, the angry car paint guy"
probably get him millions of hits
Why? Because he knows more than the average paint slinger? Start to finish over 14 years on TH-cam. What’s your channel? I would like to learn for my own project. ASE Master, 78. ADCelco instructor, tech seminar leader in 7 states, retired from Raytheon.
@@deankay4434Pete is amazing. That other guy is probably some gamer kid who's offended easily.
@@lodollar23 LOL, paint with “X” Box! Rebuilt his “Barbie House” into a paint booth.
Brilliant video Pete ... better the another guy I saw going on bare metal ...... good to see your showing us how to do it right ....... thank you rich U.K.
Another great video my friend.
My friend pet may be load but he don't stutter. Thanks guy to keep it real.
I'm sanding down the OAI (Ram Air) hood on my 72 Cutlass 442I'm sanding the old paint off and plan on repainting the hood as well as the rest of the car with Duracryl Viking Blue metallic lacquer paint and clear coating it with their High Performance clear. I will be using KONDAR red Oxide primer on the rest of the car as well as the hood. I've been told that to avoid wavy finish, I need to use Feather Fill on the hood and block it down for a smooth flat finish. Will the Feather Fill play nice with lacquer paint?
Also, years ago when I used to paint cars as a hobby, I used a Bink's number 7 knock off and had good results. I don't want to use that one now since once I used fish eye eliminator in it so it's contaminated.
I have a Bink's 2001 with an agitator cup that has never been used, a new Devilbiss Finish Line HVLP gun and a new AEROPRO HVLP SPRAY GUN G6600 HVLP gun! I've never used an HVLP gun so I was wondering if there will be any issues using one for metallic lacquer? Some on car forums say it will be an issue getting the flakes to flow out? Some say to thin down the last coat with lacquer thinner and it will flow everything out.
What say you Pete.....which of these guns would you use for metallic lacquer paint? I'm 70 years old and not as confident as I was 25 years ago! I enjoy your videos a lot!
Pete I used the primer you been using and I must say it does not crack up like some of the 2k primers do. when you are blocking your panels do you use a sealer before you paint? what is your favorite paint?
Good job My friend Pete learned a lot Thanks Pete
Been watching you from your early days. I still keep learning.
Urathane 10%
Thanks! Pete.
I have used the G2 as well. Not sure why anyone would do the entire car. Nice tip on the HF spray gun.
You are the man Pete...thanks for the lessons..
Since the G2 is a basically a polyester type resin using MEKP to kick it, instead of using acetone to reduce it use styrene. I use styrene to reduce polyester blue resin for our surfboard laminating. It’s better. It cures like the resin. I’ve used 50:50 resin:styrene and it all goes off nice and cures fine. You can’t do that reducing with acetone. Test some out first. I’ve cut the feather fill with styrene. It works. Some sellers will argue this. Try it out and see.
Awesome work and great skill and knowledge shared
Well done and thanks again! Pete
These are on clearance now for $14 while supplies last. Just called my local store has 3 left. I'm buying them all.
I've been using G2 primer about 4-5 years now on all my custom hand layed fiberglass parts that I make. I use the starting line devilbiss gun with 1.8 nozzle. I use acetone to clean it right after spraying and it's lasted me since 2016. I do use a strainer but I don't reduce the primer most the time as long as I shoot it right away I'm good. It drys fast.
I been using G2 for about 5 years also and I also use the devilbiss 1.8 or Eastwood gun 1.7 but I do thin it with acetone 1 oz for every 1 quart of primer and it flows out just perfect,and I blow acetone thru the gun after every quart of primer ,and clean my gun right away after I’m done and it’s been working just perfect for me,
@@cesaralcantar2843 If we could only convince good ole My Friend Pete to use these guns. Would save him alot of $$$
Devilbiss Finish Line with 2.2 nozzle, reduce with acetone, sprays out great, but i spray THE WHOLE CAR, because I block THE WHOLE CAR, at least twice!!!
@@joedirt2166 Have you guys seen the price increase on the G2 primer now, I was paying $80 a gallon now its $160. Pist I bought the upol stuff Pete Showed in one of his latest vids and Im going try it out at $90 a gallon.
@@JacobKnightRiderShop Hi Jacob, how did you like the upol primer?
this was a very good video Pete my friend
Peter you are the best and appreciated
Excellent advice
I also use the cheap guns for primer.
It does a good job and like you mentioned, it’s a throw away.
I try and keep the pots and clean them for future use.
Thank you for some great down to earth videos.
If you have time I do however have a question.
I do hobby work. Many times when I am welding in a patch panel, it may be a while before I can get back to finishing it up.
Should I be cleaning it and spraying maybe a self etching primer over it to protect it from flash rust? Or should I just leave it until I can get back to it and clean it then and prime?
Is there and should I use an etching epoxy is there even is such a thing?
And last but not least.
Is there a good filler to be used over bare metal? So many times I have seen paint jobs where the filler separated from the panel.
Thanks again
Pete your the man when it comes to painting cars. I appreciate all your videos, you have helped me so much. Quick question, Once you spot prime with Feather Fill G2 you block sand those spots and they you spray two to three coats of high build primer. Will I need to block sand that or can I move straight into sealer then color. Again thank you so much for all your videos.
Awesome video. Before you get to do anything you showed in the video. I assume repairs and the block sand the hole car. So do you use 80 Grit then ?? Next?
Great video!
No BS Pete, works hard, get it done. Speaks true words 👌
Pete, ready to do the full Epoxy coat on my car, no doors or trunk on it, where do you recommend i start? Do the door jams and the other pain in the arse areas then larger panels .roof/quarters or the other way around? Also can i let the Epoxy tack up then shoot the 2k Acrylic over?
Your a great guy thank you for sharing the information you have a wealth of knowledge
Need more of these type of videos!
I just keep learning from you! Keep it up.... thanks.
Will Pete, I appreciate the effort!
Pete needs some more subscribers.
Hi, really informative video...i have one question for you since you sems very knowing your stuff, is it ok to apply "metal direct" polyester primer on a surface thats been sprayed with etching primer in its past life. thanks.
Thank you for all the good knowledge it's really really helpful all you know
Super helpful! Thanks Pete for these type of videos!
Pete you kick ass.
Thanks Pete! As always you make complicated shit easy! Thank you!
One of your best videos!
That cheap little gun sprayed pretty well. I only had a quart of poly primer for my current project, so I had no choice but to spray it only on the Worst areas. But I have seen videos like you said of spraying the whole car...
Pete is the man!!