PHILLIPS GUN BLUE on zinc alloy replicas
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 พ.ย. 2019
- This is the results of using Phillips Gun Blue on zinc alloy replica firearms. This isn't a full how to tutorial, as it's not exactly rocket science to strip clean and prepare the metal surfaces. This is just to show the effects, and be prepared to spend a couple of hours on your own replicas to get the finish you desire.
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I've been looking for something like this for MONTHS. Well done I really pleased. Many thanks.
Hey Dean, just wanted to say thank you for this video. This gun blue paste works the best on zinc alloy, I’ve tried all the other brands. This came out perfect. Can’t thank you enough.
Thanks glad you found the video helpful.
@@thra5herxb12s hello Dean I just seen your video on this and I find it very helpful I have the same problem with my zinc alloy or pot metal blank Beretta92 it's the best video I have seen but can you give me the website of the link we're you got Phillips gun blue ...I have tried spraying it black but it as gone very wrong not I have to strip it back to metal but that gun blue is what I need please can you help me on the brother need your help bad if you look on my TH-cam channel it's called DISCOBROWN76 you can see what I have dun and we're I have gone wrong hope this get you you fast I will look forward hearing from you DEAN WATERS 👊👊👊👊
@@thra5herxb12s PS thank you so much for your videos on this it as bean very helpful if you can help me I will be very grateful for your help hope to hear from you soon DEAN 🤜👊🤛
Thank you for sharing the Phillips Blue!
I would have liked to see your bruni p38 getting blued too !
Thanks a great video I've been looking around for a gun blue for my Denix
Thanks. I should have mentioned in the video you should wear gloves as it stains the skin.
@@thra5herxb12s Hello, Would this work on a sten?
@@thra5herxb12show many passes did you do
Looks great!
Also do you wash under cold water afterwards like the birch wood stuff
What is the best method to strip paint off an airsoft gun?
THIS IS THE ONLY gun bluing that truly works with Zamak in my experience. I've tried all the other major brands. I think because it's a paste it is able to penetrate the alloy better than traditional gun bluing products.
- It should arrive in a DRY paste format. Adding water will reduce it's capabilities to penetrate the alloy metal. Apply it like you would a powder to get the most even finish.
- Unless you want to get more of an aged effect, make sure there is no dirt/debris/old gun bluing residue before applying. Otherwise it will mix with the bluing agent.
- Don't overdo it. A little goes a long way, just use tiny amounts at a time like Dean said. Otherwise the Zamak will corrode if you spread it out too much and wait too long to buff it.
- TAKE YOUR TIME. Keep buffing and going over the surface until you got an even coat.
- APPLY AND BUFF. Once you've applied it, I found it helps to firmly press down and buff the surface in order to get an even coat. Almost as if you are polishing the metal with it.
- After you've got a satisfactory even coating, you can use linseed oil or WD40 to do some additional polishing and buffing. Linseed oil darkens the finish nicely.
- DO NOT use steel wool to buff or polish. The oils typically found in steel wool will turn your finish an ugly rust color. However, you can use steel wool to remove the gun bluing in areas where it's splotchy and you need to start over, just be sure to degrease with something like rubbing alcohol afterwards, otherwise you will get the rusting effect.
Those are my tips. Hope they are helpful. Once again, thank you Dean for sharing this. It's the only method and product that gives me a true gun blue effect with Zamak replicas :)
how durable is the finish? does it scratch easily
@@gazov2115 In my experience it holds up better than most other bluing products since it almost works like a thin coating. Just treat it like you would paint, and make sure you keep it oiled.
@@papapetebreen ive noticed Phillips also sells a version of this product that can be diluted in water. i have quite a large denix replica with a lot of awkward parts that are hard to reach. would submerging the replica in this solution create the same effect?
@@gazov2115 I haven't used their liquid version, but I have used quite a few other liquid solutions. My experience is that they rust extremely easy if you don't wipe them immediately after applying. The Zemak metal oxidizes extremely fast. With the Phillips Gun blue paste you have more time to work it in an ensure nothing rusts, hence why I prefer it. I would recommend getting some Q-tips for those hard to reach areas, or taking the gun apart and doing each piece individually.
@@gazov2115 Just to follow up here further - I tried Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black on an airsoft MP44 and compared it to the Phillips. You can definitely get some great results with it. It gives a much more even and darker black finish with less blue. However you have to make sure to do proper surface preparation otherwise it rusts extremely fast. Hope this helps.
Do you buff this with 00000 wire wool?
The jar actually contains small blue crystals which require rehydrating with a few drops of water. This is not covered by the instructions.
No the jar contains a liquid. If you leave the lid off or do not tighten it. the liquid will dry out. I suspect you had a faulty jar.
Never occurred to me to try on alloy! I've got a couple jars of Phillips for my old revolvers, can't wait to try on old cap guns / replicas in my collection. Thank you!
How did it go
When applying this to an Air pistol, Do you need too remove the original paint on the slide first?
Yes. You have to remove all the paint. I also recommend going a step further and buffing it with some steel wool to remove any extra paint residue.
Have you tried it on Alum.?
could the orignal finish on the replica be removed and cleaned off with paint stripper?
The original finish on this one was done with a chemical compound called Ally Black and looks like black paint but needs to be removed with wire wool. Other cheaper replicas are powder coated and also not affected by paint stripper.
Hello my friend. Do you have to remove the finish on the gun ? Or can i leave it as it is and apply the gun blue
Gun blue needs to be applied to metal. You have to remove the black paint first.
@@thra5herxb12s sorry for the late response, thank you for the reply. Will this finish wear of over time?
@@BrosRemix It seems to last well but scratches easilly.
I have a few questions.
You sound like you live in the UK and I thought replica or blank firing guns have to be a bright color like orange or blue, I have a few blanks and I have stripped the blue and orange coating off them so I can blue them, how ever somebody told me once I take the original bright paint off them they are now illegal as they are now considered an imitation fire are?
Also where do you buy your guns from as I would like one of those thank you in advance
Good question. By removing the paint you have committed an offence under the firearms act and the VCRA and can result in up to 6 years imprisonment. To own a black replica you need to have certain valid defences, I am a Historic Re enactor and have Shooter Rights association membership and insurance to purchase and own a firearm like this. Any gun shop can get these in for you as long as you can provide proof of valid reasons to want one.
@@thra5herxb12s thanks for you reply that's good to know, maybe it's time to repaint them blue and orange
@@MrJamesstott You can always join the SRA they also have a fb page. shootersrightsassociation.co.uk/
Will it work for all gun metal . I have a 1911 45acp.ASAP!
This is regular gun blue and is formulated to work on steel guns, but it is just luck that it works well on die cast replicas as well.
I'd recommend to field strip the gun first.
I dont think you need to tell anyone that. They can work that out easily enough.
Would you mind sharing with me how you removed the original paint and finish please? I have an ekol in fume finish and i would like to remove and polisj the bare metal
I removed the Ally Black finish on a buffing wheel but you can use wire wool or any fine abrasive paper. If you use abrasive you need to polish the surfaces before applying the blue, or you will just have a dark scratched up finish.
@@thra5herxb12s thanks for your answer i just now started sanding with 400 grit sandpaper and it seems it has a thin copper plate under the finish wich its not hard at all to remove but it does seem that i will have to finish it off with a thinner grit and also a polishing wheel to get rid of all the small scratches
How do you get the original finish off the zinc please mate? I have the Phillips Blue but not sure how to get the remnants off before I start?
I used fine grade steel wool to get the Ally Black off. It took a long time but it was worth it.
@@thra5herxb12sAppreciate the reply :) Just tried to use steel wool on my beretta air gun, doesn't seem to have any effect and i'm rubbing pretty hard. A powder coating perhaps? Any ideas?
Will ballistal neutralize the the bluing?
The bluing is a chemical reaction caused by the acids in the solution. It wont clean off, but it will buff off with a light abrasive.
Is that a pre-VCRA blank firer?
Not it's a UK compliant version.
@@thra5herxb12s Just wondering how we're allowed to blue the slide in the UK, given 50% of the gun has to be a bright colour? Not having a dig, I was just asking if it was a pre-VCRA one as they were allowed to be black and can still be black. Or are you in re-enactment, in which case it can still be black? It's just I have a blank firer and the slide is really chipped and tatty now, but I don't want to stripe it and blue it if that would technically make it illegal!
@@StrathpefferJunction The whole pistol was painted black. I removed the black paint to apply the gun blue. Yes you need to have valid defence to own a black replica in the UK. Even an Airsoft replica, but anyone over the age of 18 can have a deactivated real gun.
I always thought that zinc alloy and other replica guns, could never be blued. Or chromed, or what ever... Where can I buy this on-line? Is there any seller in Europe??
I tried bluing my gsg 1911 which the frame is zinc alloy whole gun corroded with white rust currently the process of de-rusting trying to find something to refinish it
@@HAZEY781 Did you apply oil to it after the bluing?
@@SuspiciousKoala yes I did thinking I shouldn't have
@@HAZEY781 interesting. All the forums I've read said to oil after bluing to prevent the rust. I'm trying to figure out the best way to blue my Denix Lemat without destroying it
@@SuspiciousKoala did you ever get round to blue the denix replica, im thinking of doing the same soon
Zinc alloy?
Pure zinc is far too soft to use on its own.
@@thra5herxb12s aw right , my p4 blank pistol is steel , am sure the ppk ones are too
This is just what I've been looking for! One question. I collect half scale zinc alloy replicas which are typically powder coated. If I strip the powder coat, do I have to polish the zinc alloy first or can I just apply to the freshly stripped and cleaned surface? Thanks in advance!
It depends on the quality of the bare metal surface, but if it's smooth enough just a light rub with fine wire wool will do the job.
Thanks so much! I appreciate your help! Cheers!@@thra5herxb12s