makes sense. same "rules" as a table saw: - if you're ripping, use a rip blade. - if you're cross-cutting, use a cross-cut blade. plywood cuts are always cross-cuts, because of the alternating grain of the layers.
I know a guy, a professional woodworker, who never uses anything other than a Forrest Woodworker II (40-tooth verzion, IIRC). He has a few of them. When one gets dull, he uses another and sends the first out for sharpening.
@@kwilliams2239And he probably never bitches about his 3.5 HP tablesaw being underpowered. I want to be rich enough I can afford two TS55s so I can just slap on the dust collection and the Bluetooth battery and do crosscuts or rips without changing the blade.
If this is true, then WHY are other companies able to make single-battery saws that blow the power of the Festool away? I understand that blades matter greatly, but Festool is definitely underpowered compared to many other saws on the market. I love my Festool HKC on the jobsite, but it is definitely underpowered, even with a ripping blade. Pressure treated lumber really pushes it to its limits. No saw these days should struggle with a simple 2x lumber crosscut. They need to update their electronics or motors or batteries or something to catch up with the others. Oh, and just ONE battery on the saw Festool!
Right blade for the job certainly matters. One other thing that matters is blade cleanliness--if you've got a bunch of pitch built up on the blade from use that'll bog down the saw too. I've used my TS55 to joint a lot of red oak boards, and found that over time I would get a lot of pitch, primarily on the back of the blade where it's harder to see. Soaking in simple green & scrubbing with a wire brush would restore the blade's performance.
Festool is missing out on not having bundling the other two blades in a package deal. I own the fine cut, universal, and panther blades. When I’m cutting hardwood under 8/4, usually I’m using the universal blade. Blades are like tires, the best all season tires are beat by even the cheapest snow tires in winter; they’re simply built different for different jobs. And like swapping tires, my fine tooth gets less wear and tear and stays sharper longer (I could probably use the sharpening service this year.
But few find any advantage of winter tires over all-season tires. Winter tires are soft, so wear quite quickly. There is something to be said for using a single blade, too. Table saws have the oomph to power through with either (crosscut or rip). When I first got my TS55, I was surprised that it was underpowered, too. A 7-1/2" circular saw has a lot more power,.
@ while it’s not a discussion about snow tires, I found there to be a significant difference in my car’s handling on snow and icy roads - night and day difference. Also, I swap my winter tires out when the temps get above 45°/50° consistently so they last longer. As for blades, I have 3 blades and usually keep the 28 tooth blade but I have found the 12 tooth (16?) to be significantly faster in ripping thick lumber. For around $40-$50, I think it’s worth it.
@@AaronGeller Sure, while it isn't about tires, there are a lot of analogies. I lived in NY/VT for 30+ years, and have used every sort of tire there is. I finally settled on decent all-season radials. If the plows could get out, so could I. We've since moved to AL/GA and though I'd never have to deal with snow again. Last night we got 3" of snow and ice. Everything is shut down, which is a good thing. The drivers here are simply nuts! I normally keep a 48-tooth WWII on my table saw. It's a excellent cross-cut blade and good all-around. I have a Freud Glueline Rip, If I'm going to rip a lot of wood. I don't bother changing it over for just a couple of cuts. Hence my analog of car tires. I have one of the very early (I think) TS55s (TS55-EQ) . It's about 15 years-old, which may account for it being under-powered. I just use it for breaking down sheet goods, so it works. I say under-powered because even a cheap circular saw has more power.
@@AaronGellerjust been to the Lake District in Northern England, temperature was -5c and lots of snow, car handled perfectly on standard Michelin tyres. Winter tyres are a waste of money, unless you live in Iceland or Alaska.
I bought a Panther 210 mm blade just last week to rip 4 metre long boards of recycled Australian eucalyptus 50 mm thick. Very happy! Incredibly hard wood.
I really tire of video titles that claim some statistic without citations. These rank right down there with "99% of woodworkers don't know ..." or "less than 1% of woodworkers know ..." Enough with the clickbait titles. I really don't want your channel to become one of those on my do not watch list simply because of clickbait titles. Steve
The problem with the title is it doesn’t indicate the content. “What blade should I use in my track saws?” would be more useful and universal to all brands. I really do appreciate and enjoy your content but it becomes less useful when you imply it’s only relevant for Festool.
Concur. Jason - please revert to making the professional, educational vids. that earned my subscription. A good first step, IMHO, would be to use descriptive, non-sensationalized, titles. For this vid., consider something simple like “Use the Right Blade for Your Track Saw.”
If you look at a saw blade like a drill bit. When drilling wood with a fluted bit the waste fills up the flutes and compacts then makes it difficult to finish the hole until you clean the flutes. The same goes for a saw blade with more teeth and small flutes or gullets that is there to carry away waste when they fill up they have to exit the wood and discard the waste in order to become efficient at cutting. When you have a low tooth blade or ripping blade notice the gullets are larger. With a larger gullet it allows the tooth to keep cutting until it exits from the material and discard it so it can cut again when it comes back around. Hope this makes sense. You need the blade for what you are cutting wood needs a positive rake on the tooth and if you cut plastics and or aluminum panels you need a specialty blade and they will have a negative rake on the tooth.. The right tool for the job makes all the difference as you stated
A lower tooth blade with bigger gullets can remove the saw dust more efficiently. Deeper cuts in harder wood along the grain do better with ripping blades for this reason.
I bought my ts55 req about 15 years ago and after using it I thought the same. That the saw was under powered. Yes I used the stock blade to cut cabinet grade plywoods. Honestly I was disappointed with the tool because of this. Not wanting to give up on something that cost that much. I realized like any other woodworking tool, machine it needed to be setup correctly. For some reason the unit I got the blade was not parallel to the base of the saw. Maybe this was in the manual idk. After a few adjustments this saw is amazing!!!! No the saw is not under powered. The tool just needs to be used correctly. 15 years later and it is still going strong!!!
I used to hate changing the blades on my old circular saw. So I rarely changed the blade. But the Festool saws (and all their tools) are so easy to change. I’ll be getting the Panther for when I start cutting my walnut. My jointer is too small for the longer boards (for me) and I’ll be using my tracksaw
I just bought the ripping blade for my CSC SYS 50 table saw and the difference between that and the standard blade for cutting through hardwood is incredible. I know it’s a cliche but the ripping blade does rally feel like it’s cutting through butter.
Good video and relevant for all circular saws and jigsaws. TBF, the Festool underpowered meme was for earlier versions. But that was compared with Mafell, which is more suited to heavier duty site work or joinery and makes even Festool feel like a toy. On site, where perfectly clean cuts don't matter, they don't want to swap blades as it takes time and requires having a place to store the unused blade in a chaotic environment, so Mafell with a general blade does the job. Over 50 years, whenever I get a new circular saw, I get three good quality blades: crosscut, general, & rip. Sometimes I get a 4th for ultra fine cutting of melamine coated chipboard. The biggest mismatch is using crosscut or general blades on a deep rip where fibres coil up in front of the blade like ploughed roots then clog the cutline. When working with friends or lending them my tools, I demonstrate the effects of using crosscut blade to rip and vice versa - they go 'Ah ha!', and wish they'd learned the lesson years ago. I have corded Makita saws as they hit my price-performance-usage band; if I could afford it, I'd get Festool or Milwaukee cordless but my usage wouldn't justify that purchase. I and my acquaintances are not just making nice furniture cabinets, instead we are probably doing more DiY construction plus some shelves and cabinets. The same works for jigsaws where you can also adjust the throw. I helped a neighbour make some cross and rip cuts along some pine with a jigsaw and he was fascinated to see the effects of adjusting blade, speed, and throw on rip and cross cuts
Great point! It is so important for everyone to understand that although it's an amazing Festool saw, the blade it comes with is NOT for everything. I was in that thought process for a long time and when I tried a Panther blade for the first time it was life changing!
Most of my cuts are with plywood, baseboard, or molding. I keep sharp ultra fine cut blades in my track saw, table saw, Ryobi 6.5" saw, and my miter saw. They work great and are not under powered. These blades are not designed for rough construction or demolition so they don't zip through composites or fibered wood fast. Can I use an ultra fine blade for framing, yes, but that's mostly cross cut and OSB ply wood, so the blade will clog up quicker. Would I use a construction blade to build cabinets, no, the cut would not be as clean. Use the right blade for the right job.
I have used the TS saws for 30+ years. Maybe it's a European thing, but I remember mine coming with both blades. I cut mostly plywood, but recently I made a 50mm (2") oak table top for my kitchen island, and the ripping blade (believe it has 12 teeth) made it very easy and fast. One cut, no bugging down, no burns, with ready to glue cuts. Now do a video of how most people go way too deep when routing, you know where you get that "screaming" sound from the struggling bit.
This is why users give a bad rep to the WEN track saw, that thing is a beast you just need to know how to use it. I bought from Amazon a blade set with low, medium and high teeth count (carbide) and I can cut through anything.
i watch a youtube channel of a german online tool retailer. they did plenty of videos on track saws from all kinds of different manufacturers. even did a lot of comparrison videos. from cheapo german brands like einhell and scheppach, over makita bosch and dewalt, all the way up to mafell and festool. they consistently say that the festool (alongside the mafell and metabo) has the smoothest cut and feels the most powerful.
Perfect timing. Just bought a Festool track saw (love it) and have been cutting plywood. Plan is to cut a walnut slab tomorrows. Off to Woodcraft. Thanks :)
All power saws including track saws are still using the same old blade fastening system since they were first designed. Making a blade change simpler is what is needed these days on all power saws.
Totally agree, until you change blades, you won’t realise the difference. I cut quite a bit of plywood with a 50 tooth combo blade, but using the Amana 24 tooth ripping blade on Aussie hardwood (Redgum) was effortless
With all the comments of people saying the Festool is under powered you would think there would be more qualified woodworkers who know about which blade to use on a saw that would refute these comments of under powered. Maybe they are still ticked off with the price of the saw from Festool and remain quiet or they or wrong. I did do some research and watch a qualified person tear down the saw on TH-cam and go over the different parts of the saw including power of the saw.
As many cutting tools, track saw is not the cutting tool, it is just the tool holder (same goes for router, table saw, sander, etc...), a good tool holder is worth nothing if used with the wrong tool for the application
Well said. I've assisted fellow woodworkers with this same issue. Now, for the ones that I found with the blades mounted backwards in their circular saws, I simply recommended that they retire from woodwork and take up knitting or painting. ;-)
Great video Jason! Nothing but common sense really. I’ve read some of the ‘underpowered’ comments in the past and when you look at application, many are used at jobs sites with ‘wet’ wood.
Probably also an example of misuse. But I found cutting MDF and OSB goes really well and quick with the panther blade. I keep a second one just for that. Actually I have a third I messed up some tooth’s of on a screw head that I use for cutting drywall.
Hey Jason - Great video! I wish I had a dollar for every time someone has told me that Festool track saw is underpowered, yet they try using the wrong blade for what they are trying to cut. I do have a question for you. Where did you get the Festool green "plug" that you use to cover the blade change bolt? I have one that I got from someone that 3D printed it, and it tends to pop off when I am using the saw. Thanks and have a great day!
I can’t believe people with Festool money and experience don’t know the correct blades to use. I am totally a beginner woodworker and all my saws have the proper blades in them for the tasks they’re doing. Just surprising.
Even with cross cuts in 34mm elm wood the original 48 teeth blade in my Bosch GKT 55 gives bad results. I bought a 12 teeth blade and it goes very good. Even ripping goes easily and the cutting surface looks better as expected. I'll keep the 18 teeth blade for plywood. 18mm goes without probleem for sure, haven't cut anything thicker.
Bent's Woodworking... Very well explained. That is something that I wasn't aware of. I'm just getting back into woodworking and still need a few things like a track saw (when budget allows) so thank you for going over this issue.
The 48 tooth blade that comes with the TSC55 has a 1.8mm kerf. The panther blade is 2.2mm? Surely this means when you swop back, the splinter guard would have been re cut...
I must respectfully disagree. I’ve taken a brand new Tenryu 40t 160mm track saw blade and installed it on a corded TS55, and then swapped the same blade onto a cordless Makita 40v track saw. The difference was significant, and the Makita was much more powerful. Additionally the cordless Metabo HPT is even more powerful than the Makita. Blade choice is obviously very important, but comparing the Festool to other premium saws, it is underpowered. I’ve also used the cordless Festool track saw, and it’s even worse. Lastly, I never recommend thin kerf blades for any track saw. In harder material thin kerf blades will wander. Just my 2 cents.
Because you have idiots like 731 who knows absolutely nothing about tools or woodworking telling these ppl otherwise. Great video and great info Jason!
I’ve thought the same about his channel for a while now. Also, he never builds anything. A tool review channel run by someone that doesn’t use their tools.
@@howler5000 that’s exactly it. I don’t understand it. He must be doing something right because ppl take his word as gospel when all he is doing is making money off of affiliate links.. I unsubscribed a while ago I couldn’t watch it anymore. Last I checked he had over 600k subscribers which is another mystery to me lol.
@@howler5000same as most photography “gear review” channels, talking heads waffling on about auto focus tracking etc, with zero photos on display. I have no idea why people watch those tool channels where nobody ever makes anything.
To make an accurate comparison, watch some ProjectFarm videos. Your clip would be more accurate is you measured and compared the amp draw on the different blades or used a weight to pull the saw through the cuts at measurable/comparable speeds.
I Just did ripcut 3.8m 5.5cm thick French Oak with the high teeth blade. My TS60 didn't feel underpowered. Are you telling me, that i could push it harder with a rip blade?
Guilty. Went over to a buddies place to rip some thick hardwood for him and it sucked. However; I DID realize the problem and I DID have the rip blade with me and was able to correct the problem straight away. But......had to use TH-cam to noodle out HOW to change the blade. It was a huge difference for sure.
Lets be honest tho... if other saws like the Makita can use whatever blade you want and not behave as underpowered, then the Festool IS in fact underpowered in relation to the competition. Is it underpowered in reality aside from any other factors? Not really. Is it underpowered in relation to a comparison of other offerings? Yes. Especially at the price point.
I drive my car with the pedal all the way to floor, I can’t understand why it overheats! Must be underpowered! Thanks for an explanation that should just be common sense. Keep up the good work!
Great content, but needlessly “clickbait” title. Please don’t make this a habit. At least for me, it’s off putting. Titles are your first chance to make a good impression, and demonstrate that the vid. is worth me investing my learning time. I hesitate to open vids. w/ sensationalized titles. I’m glad that I resisted the urge to skip this vid. based on the title, since the content was solid (what I’ve come to expect from you). Other channels insisted, for whatever reason, on making sensationalized title their new method. All I learned from these channels is how to unsubscribe from them.
Great insight on the saw. Bad grammar in video title: Change to "...say this is wrong." And link to TSC 55 is broken (404). Thank you for all your great videos. They've helped me a lot. (English major in transition from wordworker to woodworker.)
English major here, still writing and woodworking: in this case the plural is correct. It depends on what the percentage refers to. If it is plural, like “people “ it takes the plural; if singular, as in “pie”, or innumerable, as in “the mixture” or “the gravel”, use the singular. 🙂
Common sense really. I have never understood when others have moaned about the festool saws. Possibly festool should send it out with the lower cost panther blade.
Hallelujah brother! Maybe they can sell more saws with different blades for different cuts. How about a combo kit with multiple blades? I hear you may know a guy. 🤪
So what you are saying is there are different blades for different purposes on Festool, just like on normal tablesaws? Impossible. One Festool blade to rule them all!! 🤣 People, at large, are in possession of felony levels of stupidity and ignorance.
To be honest, I'm not a Festool hater but I don't like the company. I think the tools are somehow overpriced which they are entitled to, and they try to wallgarden you in their ecosystem making things incompatible with other brands. The thing is... All manufacturers do that. It baffles me that batteries are non standard (bosch seems to be making in effort in that arena but we'll see), tracks could be standarized as well, but again, other manufacturers are doing the same.
makes sense. same "rules" as a table saw:
- if you're ripping, use a rip blade.
- if you're cross-cutting, use a cross-cut blade.
plywood cuts are always cross-cuts, because of the alternating grain of the layers.
I know a guy, a professional woodworker, who never uses anything other than a Forrest Woodworker II (40-tooth verzion, IIRC). He has a few of them. When one gets dull, he uses another and sends the first out for sharpening.
@@kwilliams2239And he probably never bitches about his 3.5 HP tablesaw being underpowered. I want to be rich enough I can afford two TS55s so I can just slap on the dust collection and the Bluetooth battery and do crosscuts or rips without changing the blade.
If this is true, then WHY are other companies able to make single-battery saws that blow the power of the Festool away? I understand that blades matter greatly, but Festool is definitely underpowered compared to many other saws on the market. I love my Festool HKC on the jobsite, but it is definitely underpowered, even with a ripping blade. Pressure treated lumber really pushes it to its limits. No saw these days should struggle with a simple 2x lumber crosscut. They need to update their electronics or motors or batteries or something to catch up with the others. Oh, and just ONE battery on the saw Festool!
Right blade for the job certainly matters. One other thing that matters is blade cleanliness--if you've got a bunch of pitch built up on the blade from use that'll bog down the saw too. I've used my TS55 to joint a lot of red oak boards, and found that over time I would get a lot of pitch, primarily on the back of the blade where it's harder to see. Soaking in simple green & scrubbing with a wire brush would restore the blade's performance.
That's an excellent tip for keeping your blade clean!
Festool is missing out on not having bundling the other two blades in a package deal. I own the fine cut, universal, and panther blades. When I’m cutting hardwood under 8/4, usually I’m using the universal blade.
Blades are like tires, the best all season tires are beat by even the cheapest snow tires in winter; they’re simply built different for different jobs. And like swapping tires, my fine tooth gets less wear and tear and stays sharper longer (I could probably use the sharpening service this year.
That makes sense!
But few find any advantage of winter tires over all-season tires. Winter tires are soft, so wear quite quickly. There is something to be said for using a single blade, too. Table saws have the oomph to power through with either (crosscut or rip).
When I first got my TS55, I was surprised that it was underpowered, too. A 7-1/2" circular saw has a lot more power,.
@ while it’s not a discussion about snow tires, I found there to be a significant difference in my car’s handling on snow and icy roads - night and day difference. Also, I swap my winter tires out when the temps get above 45°/50° consistently so they last longer.
As for blades, I have 3 blades and usually keep the 28 tooth blade but I have found the 12 tooth (16?) to be significantly faster in ripping thick lumber. For around $40-$50, I think it’s worth it.
@@AaronGeller Sure, while it isn't about tires, there are a lot of analogies. I lived in NY/VT for 30+ years, and have used every sort of tire there is. I finally settled on decent all-season radials. If the plows could get out, so could I. We've since moved to AL/GA and though I'd never have to deal with snow again. Last night we got 3" of snow and ice. Everything is shut down, which is a good thing. The drivers here are simply nuts!
I normally keep a 48-tooth WWII on my table saw. It's a excellent cross-cut blade and good all-around. I have a Freud Glueline Rip, If I'm going to rip a lot of wood. I don't bother changing it over for just a couple of cuts. Hence my analog of car tires.
I have one of the very early (I think) TS55s (TS55-EQ) . It's about 15 years-old, which may account for it being under-powered. I just use it for breaking down sheet goods, so it works. I say under-powered because even a cheap circular saw has more power.
@@AaronGellerjust been to the Lake District in Northern England, temperature was -5c and lots of snow, car handled perfectly on standard Michelin tyres. Winter tyres are a waste of money, unless you live in Iceland or Alaska.
I bought a Panther 210 mm blade just last week to rip 4 metre long boards of recycled Australian eucalyptus 50 mm thick.
Very happy!
Incredibly hard wood.
Glad it’s working out for you!
I really tire of video titles that claim some statistic without citations. These rank right down there with "99% of woodworkers don't know ..." or "less than 1% of woodworkers know ..." Enough with the clickbait titles. I really don't want your channel to become one of those on my do not watch list simply because of clickbait titles. Steve
The problem with the title is it doesn’t indicate the content. “What blade should I use in my track saws?” would be more useful and universal to all brands. I really do appreciate and enjoy your content but it becomes less useful when you imply it’s only relevant for Festool.
I agree! Also, “change the game” has essentially lost all meaning (just like Jimminy Jillickers 😄!)
@ it’s true, the way the video is titled isn’t useful and comes across slightly defensive 🤔
Concur. Jason - please revert to making the professional, educational vids. that earned my subscription. A good first step, IMHO, would be to use descriptive, non-sensationalized, titles. For this vid., consider something simple like “Use the Right Blade for Your Track Saw.”
500% of people agree with your comment!!!!
If you look at a saw blade like a drill bit. When drilling wood with a fluted bit the waste fills up the flutes and compacts then makes it difficult to finish the hole until you clean the flutes. The same goes for a saw blade with more teeth and small flutes or gullets that is there to carry away waste when they fill up they have to exit the wood and discard the waste in order to become efficient at cutting. When you have a low tooth blade or ripping blade notice the gullets are larger. With a larger gullet it allows the tooth to keep cutting until it exits from the material and discard it so it can cut again when it comes back around. Hope this makes sense. You need the blade for what you are cutting wood needs a positive rake on the tooth and if you cut plastics and or aluminum panels you need a specialty blade and they will have a negative rake on the tooth.. The right tool for the job makes all the difference as you stated
A lower tooth blade with bigger gullets can remove the saw dust more efficiently. Deeper cuts in harder wood along the grain do better with ripping blades for this reason.
I bought my ts55 req about 15 years ago and after using it I thought the same. That the saw was under powered. Yes I used the stock blade to cut cabinet grade plywoods. Honestly I was disappointed with the tool because of this. Not wanting to give up on something that cost that much. I realized like any other woodworking tool, machine it needed to be setup correctly. For some reason the unit I got the blade was not parallel to the base of the saw. Maybe this was in the manual idk. After a few adjustments this saw is amazing!!!! No the saw is not under powered. The tool just needs to be used correctly. 15 years later and it is still going strong!!!
Agreed!
I used to hate changing the blades on my old circular saw. So I rarely changed the blade. But the Festool saws (and all their tools) are so easy to change.
I’ll be getting the Panther for when I start cutting my walnut. My jointer is too small for the longer boards (for me) and I’ll be using my tracksaw
Track Saw is great for edge jointing
I just bought the ripping blade for my CSC SYS 50 table saw and the difference between that and the standard blade for cutting through hardwood is incredible. I know it’s a cliche but the ripping blade does rally feel like it’s cutting through butter.
TS55 cross cuts 5/4 hardwoods on the stock blade fine. Straight line ripping 5/4 it’s going to squawk a bit, hence they make the panther.
Great info. I definitely have been guilty of pushing my track saw through hardwoods with the wrong blade.
Good video and relevant for all circular saws and jigsaws.
TBF, the Festool underpowered meme was for earlier versions. But that was compared with Mafell, which is more suited to heavier duty site work or joinery and makes even Festool feel like a toy. On site, where perfectly clean cuts don't matter, they don't want to swap blades as it takes time and requires having a place to store the unused blade in a chaotic environment, so Mafell with a general blade does the job. Over 50 years, whenever I get a new circular saw, I get three good quality blades: crosscut, general, & rip. Sometimes I get a 4th for ultra fine cutting of melamine coated chipboard. The biggest mismatch is using crosscut or general blades on a deep rip where fibres coil up in front of the blade like ploughed roots then clog the cutline.
When working with friends or lending them my tools, I demonstrate the effects of using crosscut blade to rip and vice versa - they go 'Ah ha!', and wish they'd learned the lesson years ago. I have corded Makita saws as they hit my price-performance-usage band; if I could afford it, I'd get Festool or Milwaukee cordless but my usage wouldn't justify that purchase. I and my acquaintances are not just making nice furniture cabinets, instead we are probably doing more DiY construction plus some shelves and cabinets.
The same works for jigsaws where you can also adjust the throw. I helped a neighbour make some cross and rip cuts along some pine with a jigsaw and he was fascinated to see the effects of adjusting blade, speed, and throw on rip and cross cuts
Thank you for this verry basic and important illustration of the facts Jason. All the best for the new year.
Great point! It is so important for everyone to understand that although it's an amazing Festool saw, the blade it comes with is NOT for everything. I was in that thought process for a long time and when I tried a Panther blade for the first time it was life changing!
Most of my cuts are with plywood, baseboard, or molding. I keep sharp ultra fine cut blades in my track saw, table saw, Ryobi 6.5" saw, and my miter saw. They work great and are not under powered. These blades are not designed for rough construction or demolition so they don't zip through composites or fibered wood fast. Can I use an ultra fine blade for framing, yes, but that's mostly cross cut and OSB ply wood, so the blade will clog up quicker. Would I use a construction blade to build cabinets, no, the cut would not be as clean. Use the right blade for the right job.
yup when I bought my TSC 55 KEB-F-Plus I also ordered a ripping blade at the same time and it definitely makes all the difference
I have used the TS saws for 30+ years. Maybe it's a European thing, but I remember mine coming with both blades. I cut mostly plywood, but recently I made a 50mm (2") oak table top for my kitchen island, and the ripping blade (believe it has 12 teeth) made it very easy and fast. One cut, no bugging down, no burns, with ready to glue cuts. Now do a video of how most people go way too deep when routing, you know where you get that "screaming" sound from the struggling bit.
This is why users give a bad rep to the WEN track saw, that thing is a beast you just need to know how to use it. I bought from Amazon a blade set with low, medium and high teeth count (carbide) and I can cut through anything.
The video says it well!! Additionally, pls get blades cleaned, sharpen, replaced when required and the tool will work best for you.
i watch a youtube channel of a german online tool retailer. they did plenty of videos on track saws from all kinds of different manufacturers. even did a lot of comparrison videos. from cheapo german brands like einhell and scheppach, over makita bosch and dewalt, all the way up to mafell and festool.
they consistently say that the festool (alongside the mafell and metabo) has the smoothest cut and feels the most powerful.
Perfect timing. Just bought a Festool track saw (love it) and have been cutting plywood. Plan is to cut a walnut slab tomorrows. Off to Woodcraft. Thanks :)
Thanks Jason. 👍
You bet
All power saws including track saws are still using the same old blade fastening system since they were first designed. Making a blade change simpler is what is needed these days on all power saws.
Totally agree, until you change blades, you won’t realise the difference.
I cut quite a bit of plywood with a 50 tooth combo blade, but using the Amana 24 tooth ripping blade on Aussie hardwood (Redgum) was effortless
Heavens! sanity in the TH-cam woodworking space!!! bravo my friend.
Thank you!
With all the comments of people saying the Festool is under powered you would think there would be more qualified woodworkers who know about which blade to use on a saw that would refute these comments of under powered. Maybe they are still ticked off with the price of the saw from Festool and remain quiet or they or wrong. I did do some research and watch a qualified person tear down the saw on TH-cam and go over the different parts of the saw including power of the saw.
As many cutting tools, track saw is not the cutting tool, it is just the tool holder (same goes for router, table saw, sander, etc...), a good tool holder is worth nothing if used with the wrong tool for the application
Well said. I've assisted fellow woodworkers with this same issue. Now, for the ones that I found with the blades mounted backwards in their circular saws, I simply recommended that they retire from woodwork and take up knitting or painting. ;-)
Great video Jason! Nothing but common sense really. I’ve read some of the ‘underpowered’ comments in the past and when you look at application, many are used at jobs sites with ‘wet’ wood.
Probably also an example of misuse. But I found cutting MDF and OSB goes really well and quick with the panther blade. I keep a second one just for that. Actually I have a third I messed up some tooth’s of on a screw head that I use for cutting drywall.
Hey Jason - Great video! I wish I had a dollar for every time someone has told me that Festool track saw is underpowered, yet they try using the wrong blade for what they are trying to cut. I do have a question for you. Where did you get the Festool green "plug" that you use to cover the blade change bolt? I have one that I got from someone that 3D printed it, and it tends to pop off when I am using the saw. Thanks and have a great day!
I believe Drew Witt from WittWorks sent me mine.
Nice video. Whether track saw or table saw why not always use a thin kerf blade? What situation would you want to use standard kerf and why?
Nicely said!!!!💪👍
I’m glad you found it helpful!
I’m still using the blade that came with the ts 55 keb and cut Australian hardwood, it’s great, but mechanical sympathy goes a long way.
I can’t believe people with Festool money and experience don’t know the correct blades to use. I am totally a beginner woodworker and all my saws have the proper blades in them for the tasks they’re doing. Just surprising.
You are 100% correct. 💯
Even with cross cuts in 34mm elm wood the original 48 teeth blade in my Bosch GKT 55 gives bad results. I bought a 12 teeth blade and it goes very good. Even ripping goes easily and the cutting surface looks better as expected. I'll keep the 18 teeth blade for plywood. 18mm goes without probleem for sure, haven't cut anything thicker.
Bent's Woodworking... Very well explained. That is something that I wasn't aware of. I'm just getting back into woodworking and still need a few things like a track saw (when budget allows) so thank you for going over this issue.
That’s great you are getting back into woodworking!
Is it necessary to change the splinter guard on the tracks as you switch blades for different tasks?
only if the dimensions of the blades differ. If they are the same kerf width then theoretically no.
The 48 tooth blade that comes with the TSC55 has a 1.8mm kerf. The panther blade is 2.2mm? Surely this means when you swop back, the splinter guard would have been re cut...
I must respectfully disagree. I’ve taken a brand new Tenryu 40t 160mm track saw blade and installed it on a corded TS55, and then swapped the same blade onto a cordless Makita 40v track saw. The difference was significant, and the Makita was much more powerful. Additionally the cordless Metabo HPT is even more powerful than the Makita. Blade choice is obviously very important, but comparing the Festool to other premium saws, it is underpowered. I’ve also used the cordless Festool track saw, and it’s even worse. Lastly, I never recommend thin kerf blades for any track saw. In harder material thin kerf blades will wander. Just my 2 cents.
Because you have idiots like 731 who knows absolutely nothing about tools or woodworking telling these ppl otherwise. Great video and great info Jason!
I’ve thought the same about his channel for a while now. Also, he never builds anything. A tool review channel run by someone that doesn’t use their tools.
@@howler5000 that’s exactly it. I don’t understand it. He must be doing something right because ppl take his word as gospel when all he is doing is making money off of affiliate links.. I unsubscribed a while ago I couldn’t watch it anymore. Last I checked he had over 600k subscribers which is another mystery to me lol.
100%
@@howler5000same as most photography “gear review” channels, talking heads waffling on about auto focus tracking etc, with zero photos on display.
I have no idea why people watch those tool channels where nobody ever makes anything.
Thanks and Happy New Year.
You too!
Silly question, are the holes in your MFT "filled in"?
Same hold true for any saw, I even have rip blades for my chainsaw.
fantastic, thank you.
What you recommend when using the HKC with pressure treated 2x6.
To make an accurate comparison, watch some ProjectFarm videos. Your clip would be more accurate is you measured and compared the amp draw on the different blades or used a weight to pull the saw through the cuts at measurable/comparable speeds.
This is such a basic knowlege in woodworking
Got the melamine blade for a project awhile ago…cut like butter with perfect edges 🍻
I Just did ripcut 3.8m 5.5cm thick French Oak with the high teeth blade. My TS60 didn't feel underpowered. Are you telling me, that i could push it harder with a rip blade?
Guilty. Went over to a buddies place to rip some thick hardwood for him and it sucked. However; I DID realize the problem and I DID have the rip blade with me and was able to correct the problem straight away. But......had to use TH-cam to noodle out HOW to change the blade. It was a huge difference for sure.
Where could we find that 5mm set tool that you used to set the cut distance?
That's the anti-tip deal included with the saw.
@@BuckRogers2491thanks!
Been using my TS55 for 15 years without a failure!!
That's awesome, glad you've had such good luck!
Lets be honest tho... if other saws like the Makita can use whatever blade you want and not behave as underpowered, then the Festool IS in fact underpowered in relation to the competition. Is it underpowered in reality aside from any other factors? Not really. Is it underpowered in relation to a comparison of other offerings? Yes. Especially at the price point.
Depending on the amount of cuts you need to make, the fine tooth blade may still be faster than having to change blades twice.
Faster doesn't mean better.
Did you understand this video or not?
It's so annoying having to change blades constantly. I am going to buy a second saw just so I don't have to change the blade as much.
Great video. Thanks for sharing
I'm told that the 1.8mm blade can't be used in the older TS55s. You sorta imply that it can?
If you get the riving knife from the latest TS55, the corded one with 1.8mm blade, you can use a 1.8mm blade on an older saw.
@@BuckRogers2491 Are these available?
I drive my car with the pedal all the way to floor, I can’t understand why it overheats! Must be underpowered! Thanks for an explanation that should just be common sense. Keep up the good work!
Great content, but needlessly “clickbait” title. Please don’t make this a habit. At least for me, it’s off putting. Titles are your first chance to make a good impression, and demonstrate that the vid. is worth me investing my learning time. I hesitate to open vids. w/ sensationalized titles. I’m glad that I resisted the urge to skip this vid. based on the title, since the content was solid (what I’ve come to expect from you). Other channels insisted, for whatever reason, on making sensationalized title their new method. All I learned from these channels is how to unsubscribe from them.
Especially when it's grammatically incorrect.
Even if the user has both blades and when to use one over the other a lot of people are too lazy to change the blade.
Saw blades? Horses for courses!!
Great insight on the saw. Bad grammar in video title: Change to "...say this is wrong." And link to TSC 55 is broken (404). Thank you for all your great videos. They've helped me a lot. (English major in transition from wordworker to woodworker.)
Thanks for the feedback, I'll update the link.
English major here, still writing and woodworking: in this case the plural is correct. It depends on what the percentage refers to. If it is plural, like “people “ it takes the plural; if singular, as in “pie”, or innumerable, as in “the mixture” or “the gravel”, use the singular. 🙂
People v person. The title is correct.
You're absolutely correct. Apologies. I get my glasses from Costco...
My TS 75 cut 8/4 Hard Maple like a champ right out of the box. Please not I do spray with Blaster Dry Blade Lubricant.
Common sense really. I have never understood when others have moaned about the festool saws. Possibly festool should send it out with the lower cost panther blade.
Hallelujah brother! Maybe they can sell more saws with different blades for different cuts. How about a combo kit with multiple blades? I hear you may know a guy. 🤪
So what you are saying is there are different blades for different purposes on Festool, just like on normal tablesaws? Impossible. One Festool blade to rule them all!! 🤣
People, at large, are in possession of felony levels of stupidity and ignorance.
Amen brother
Maybe not underpowered, but just like Woodpeckers; overpriced. Unneeded because other brands that cost less do just as well.
To be honest, I'm not a Festool hater but I don't like the company. I think the tools are somehow overpriced which they are entitled to, and they try to wallgarden you in their ecosystem making things incompatible with other brands. The thing is... All manufacturers do that. It baffles me that batteries are non standard (bosch seems to be making in effort in that arena but we'll see), tracks could be standarized as well, but again, other manufacturers are doing the same.
No im not buying a festool lol nice try
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100% of people say you need to return to school and take an English course!