Thank you! It certainly adds an element of challenge when working under there to make sure things are captured properly. Not to mention doing multiple takes, reviewing, etc add time to the whole project.
@@PBGarage Gave me some ptsd from dropping the pan on a 058 block to find the rear intermediate shaft journal bearing gone and chewed by the oil pump gears. All I could do was to mount the new pump we had bought (suspected strainer for low pressure but it was flow loss due to the bearing missing), fitting a big TD24 filter, 5w40 oil and silencing the cluster buzzer.
I didnt think the 058 had balance shafts, just a normal oil pump, like the 06a, b5 and b6 respectively. But thicker oil didnt help me once the engine was up to temp, too much play in the shaft.
@@PBGarage 058 had external water pump and instead a parallell intermediate shaft driven by the cam belt. The oil pump was then driven vertically on a shaft that would also drive the distributor on older engines. No balance, just a shaft.
haha the stretched one? It probably didnt even hit 20 foot pounds before it started to give. Definitely a QAQC problem with these bolts, since they are know to just snap during normal operation.
Very nice video! Only thing I'd like to add is that you don't actually have to remove the balance shaft sprocket. I personally was able to just remove the oil pump sprocket and get the chain off and back on.
You are 100%, just needed to remove the one to get it out. I took it out at that point incase I had to remove it later, would have been a bit of a bear to do on the bench.
Thank you so much for the detailed video. If I am doing the WASA freewheeel sprocket install, there's no need to remove the pump correct? Just the pan can come out and you're able to remove and replace the sprocket? Would you recommend replacing the tensioner as well? Would you need to do the timing belt if you do that? Thanks again.
Thank you. Correct, ONLY the pan has to come off to the WASA wheel. The pump can remain in place. The tensioner replacement is an easy to do item while you are in there. If it were me, 100% for peace of mind and preventative maintenance. Timing belt is subjective, when was it done last? Was it documented or the seller just saying it was done. If not documented, and/or unknown of age, I would certainly replace it.
Nice job...did my hex key on b7 2.0tdi as preventive maintenance..lster models had the crank shaft gear driven..good tip doing the oil sump dry approach...👌 Do you have a link for the bentely manual for torque settings etc ??
I should have mentioned that a support like that from harbor is available, i knew about them, just drew a blank I guess. To be honest I've never actually seen one in person.
Good video.. would you happen to remember what direction the weights were in when you set them to TDC? My old balance shaft is all out of whack and the weights are not in synch.
Man great video something I was thinking about doing but not sure,was hoping to get your opinion? So I did new intake,new oil filter housing and I also did the valves, I sand blasted them with fine grit walnut and made sure they were closed,well after I was done car started up and immediately check engine light came on and was camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor not in time something to that effect, so I bought new sensor everything was fine until I shut off and restarted and same code,mind u I never had this code before until I did the intake, fast forward I decided to do oil change even though I just did it week prior,and to my surprise the walnut fines I used were all in side of the oil filter! So I cleaned best I could seemed better,then code came back and now 4th cylinder missing and I just don't have the power of the turbo like I should,I really would appreciate your best idea of this fix,I mean doing I keep flushing oil or do u think I possibly caused I bigger issue now,because now I'm thinking this got into my turbo oil lines and elsewhere ,It still drives don't misfire when I'm driving only when I'm idle and low speeds,checked cylinder pressure there all at 210 plus everything has been replaced and I do this with the blasting. Sorry for the long post but before I keep dumping money I just need to know if I should just get another engine or a possible plan on cleaning this out,thanks much.
Hard to say really what the cause is. If yoy have compression, that's definitely good. I would need to log the misfires or when it's making boost to see when it happens. Maybe it's a spark plug or coil pack, try swapping those to other cylinders to see if it follows it. Could be an injector. I think the engine is fine to be honest.
My mk5 gti needs the pump of had a oil pressure warning light flicker on then straight of so changed timing belt and new timing chain then decided to remove the sump,full of metal flake and what looked like brass was going to remove oil pump to inspect but my fridge decided to break down,just to add the pick up pipe was blocked but not massively blocked,pipe cleaned out and sump cleaned out ready to refit but I know I should really drop the oil pump to inspect it,the car sits around a lot as I have another car but love my mk5 gti and don’t want to get rid of it
We are just about to upload a bunch of stuff about a failed oil pump in a 2007 GLI with the BPY. so much easier to deal with the oil pump in a transverse than a longitudinal.
@@PBGarage I’ll definitely watch that but finished work this morning collected some more bits from VW drove home and thought I’ll start taken the pump of so takes the plastic cover and decided to turn my engine to get my endoscope in checked the main end cap on cylinder 4 while it was there and love and behold it’s slack removed the end cap no shell in it and the crank is pitted to bits so my engine is toast just thinking of what to do scrap it or get another engine it’s a 06 plate gti with only 81 thousand miles on the clock always serviced and looked after and this happens VW quality now is junk
Am in the process of doing this… I think it’s just the oil pump itself rather than the whole balance shaft set up. Can I replace the oil pump without getting the main casing off the car?
You can take the impeller out from the casting, while keeping the casting bolted to the engine. But I bet it's the aluminum casting that's scored in the bore of the pump, rather than the impeller of the pump.
It would have been super useful to show us how you got those last 2 bolts for the oil pan off. I followed everything step by step and now I'm stuck because I can't see housing and none of my tools fit in there
I was able to use a 1/4" 10mm bit with long extension. You want to make sure you are seated on it square. You can also use a long 5mm Allen extension to get it aswell. You might need to rotate the crank to move your flex pipe out of the way too ever so slightly.
Thank you so much! Some vehicle have their oil pan painted on the inside “don’t ask me why” :)) So in that case after using strong decarbonisation products you have to drop the pan and clean it manually. No paint - no problem:))😉
Don't think the oil pump is available without buying the whole assembly. But ebay might have used parts of just the pump avaliable. Or grab a junk yard pump and remove it.
So did you remove the chain entirely? And do you have to put it back on first or?? I’m a bit confused. I’m installing a deleted Balance shaft assembly tomorrow and I’m wondering how to fit it all in nicely. Also plan on reusing my tensioner for the time being.
No you do not need to remove the chain off the crank sprocket. That would involve doing the timing belt. The chain rarely fails. If the tensioner looks okay I would send it, but definitely a part to replace while your there.
At 8:30 I mention where to clock the balance shaft. Technically if you are keeping your balance shafts engaged, then you could top dead center the engine before removing the oil pump, but the chain of the crank is never removed, making it easier to time it all with just the one sprocket at 12'oclock.
There is an OT mark on the timing cover that the cam gear aligns to, while the piston 1 is at its top. Stick a longe screw driver in the spark plug bore to see where the piston is, but if the OT timing mark is aligned, you should be good. There are some videos out there that that show how.
Alright I followed this video and it was easy the only thing I’m having a problem with are the 2 bolts inside the bell housing the sub frame isn’t low enough for me to see in there and all I can think of using is a long ball ended Allen but I can’t even see them. What am I doing wrong!?!?
a long ball end allen will work, but easy to strip. I was able to use a short 1/4" 10mm with a wobble extension to get them off. With the sub frame loose, engine supported, you should be able to push/pull the subframe a bit to make some room.
Holy crap, this is the most detailed video I've seen
Thank you! Sometimes I wonder if we are detailing to much, but I feel like you cant ever have enough details!
Great detail in this video! So many little potential snags and you cover them well. 👍🏻👌🏻
Thank you!
Great photography as always. Can’t even imagine how I would succeed to have a camera with me when doing stuff like this on jacks.
Thank you! It certainly adds an element of challenge when working under there to make sure things are captured properly. Not to mention doing multiple takes, reviewing, etc add time to the whole project.
@@PBGarage Gave me some ptsd from dropping the pan on a 058 block to find the rear intermediate shaft journal bearing gone and chewed by the oil pump gears. All I could do was to mount the new pump we had bought (suspected strainer for low pressure but it was flow loss due to the bearing missing), fitting a big TD24 filter, 5w40 oil and silencing the cluster buzzer.
I didnt think the 058 had balance shafts, just a normal oil pump, like the 06a, b5 and b6 respectively. But thicker oil didnt help me once the engine was up to temp, too much play in the shaft.
@@PBGarage 058 had external water pump and instead a parallell intermediate shaft driven by the cam belt. The oil pump was then driven vertically on a shaft that would also drive the distributor on older engines. No balance, just a shaft.
@Jonas Larsson ah you're right, I never noticed that difference in oil pumps on the 1.8s. Good to know.
That sledgehammer technique to clearance the subframe was a good idea. That was the hardest part for me. The subframe was getting in the way
Thanks!
Omg your sprocket bolt. 😂 love it!
haha the stretched one? It probably didnt even hit 20 foot pounds before it started to give. Definitely a QAQC problem with these bolts, since they are know to just snap during normal operation.
Very nice video! Only thing I'd like to add is that you don't actually have to remove the balance shaft sprocket. I personally was able to just remove the oil pump sprocket and get the chain off and back on.
You are 100%, just needed to remove the one to get it out. I took it out at that point incase I had to remove it later, would have been a bit of a bear to do on the bench.
@@PBGarage fair enough! Seriously though good job on the video, lots of detail and torque specs. We love to see it.
@evanquigley8964 the oil pump sprocket isn't timed? I've got a small triangle or arrow on mine.
@@jayalli707 oil pump sprocket does not need to be timed, balance shaft sprocket absolutely needs to be timed.
@@evanquigley8964 thanks for the reply.
Thank you so much for the detailed video.
If I am doing the WASA freewheeel sprocket install, there's no need to remove the pump correct? Just the pan can come out and you're able to remove and replace the sprocket? Would you recommend replacing the tensioner as well? Would you need to do the timing belt if you do that?
Thanks again.
Thank you. Correct, ONLY the pan has to come off to the WASA wheel. The pump can remain in place. The tensioner replacement is an easy to do item while you are in there. If it were me, 100% for peace of mind and preventative maintenance. Timing belt is subjective, when was it done last? Was it documented or the seller just saying it was done. If not documented, and/or unknown of age, I would certainly replace it.
Nice job...did my hex key on b7 2.0tdi as preventive maintenance..lster models had the crank shaft gear driven..good tip doing the oil sump dry approach...👌
Do you have a link for the bentely manual for torque settings etc ??
Thank you. I do not have a link specifically but there are a number of fourm threads out there that detail the torque specifications
@@PBGarage ah yea no hassle getn the torque settings I'd just lik to be fancy with a Bentley manual 👍😁
@@whatsup8464 haha i hear ya, after doing a lot of four reading, people reference the manual quite a bit
Any kind of engine vibration After this upgrade?
No additional vibrations experienced. The 2.0 is rough to begin with. Over a year and 16000kms, no issues.
@@PBGarage my TT with Revo engine mont a lot off under 2k rpm
Have you made any locator dowels for the body/subframe/engine mount index holes visible at 3:10?😅
No need to make one, just use a 3/4" ratchet extension. :D
@@PBGarage yep, i used an extension as well. Car drives straight as an arrow still
@@PBGarage That’s a fat extension then. I turned down large bolts to the correct diameter, they can be inserted from above and hang down.
I used an engine support bar from harbor freight. I already had one from previous repairs on other cars
I should have mentioned that a support like that from harbor is available, i knew about them, just drew a blank I guess. To be honest I've never actually seen one in person.
Good video.. would you happen to remember what direction the weights were in when you set them to TDC? My old balance shaft is all out of whack and the weights are not in synch.
I do not sorry.
Man great video something I was thinking about doing but not sure,was hoping to get your opinion? So I did new intake,new oil filter housing and I also did the valves, I sand blasted them with fine grit walnut and made sure they were closed,well after I was done car started up and immediately check engine light came on and was camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor not in time something to that effect, so I bought new sensor everything was fine until I shut off and restarted and same code,mind u I never had this code before until I did the intake, fast forward I decided to do oil change even though I just did it week prior,and to my surprise the walnut fines I used were all in side of the oil filter! So I cleaned best I could seemed better,then code came back and now 4th cylinder missing and I just don't have the power of the turbo like I should,I really would appreciate your best idea of this fix,I mean doing I keep flushing oil or do u think I possibly caused I bigger issue now,because now I'm thinking this got into my turbo oil lines and elsewhere ,It still drives don't misfire when I'm driving only when I'm idle and low speeds,checked cylinder pressure there all at 210 plus everything has been replaced and I do this with the blasting. Sorry for the long post but before I keep dumping money I just need to know if I should just get another engine or a possible plan on cleaning this out,thanks much.
Hard to say really what the cause is. If yoy have compression, that's definitely good. I would need to log the misfires or when it's making boost to see when it happens. Maybe it's a spark plug or coil pack, try swapping those to other cylinders to see if it follows it. Could be an injector. I think the engine is fine to be honest.
Great video! I gotta do this over the weekend to see why I have my low pressure warning light on.
You should!
I'm saving this video ,gr8t job
Thank you!
My mk5 gti needs the pump of had a oil pressure warning light flicker on then straight of so changed timing belt and new timing chain then decided to remove the sump,full of metal flake and what looked like brass was going to remove oil pump to inspect but my fridge decided to break down,just to add the pick up pipe was blocked but not massively blocked,pipe cleaned out and sump cleaned out ready to refit but I know I should really drop the oil pump to inspect it,the car sits around a lot as I have another car but love my mk5 gti and don’t want to get rid of it
We are just about to upload a bunch of stuff about a failed oil pump in a 2007 GLI with the BPY. so much easier to deal with the oil pump in a transverse than a longitudinal.
@@PBGarage I’ll definitely watch that but finished work this morning collected some more bits from VW drove home and thought I’ll start taken the pump of so takes the plastic cover and decided to turn my engine to get my endoscope in checked the main end cap on cylinder 4 while it was there and love and behold it’s slack removed the end cap no shell in it and the crank is pitted to bits so my engine is toast just thinking of what to do scrap it or get another engine it’s a 06 plate gti with only 81 thousand miles on the clock always serviced and looked after and this happens VW quality now is junk
@dirkdingle7926 if the rest of the car is still good a junkyard engine might be the way to go
Do you still have the engine support bar handy? I’d like to borrow it when I do my bmw oil pan gasket, please 🙂
ha I think it has since been turned into a shelf...
Am in the process of doing this… I think it’s just the oil pump itself rather than the whole balance shaft set up. Can I replace the oil pump without getting the main casing off the car?
You can take the impeller out from the casting, while keeping the casting bolted to the engine. But I bet it's the aluminum casting that's scored in the bore of the pump, rather than the impeller of the pump.
@@PBGarage Thank you mate, appreciate you replying. I will get the whole thing off and have a look
It would have been super useful to show us how you got those last 2 bolts for the oil pan off. I followed everything step by step and now I'm stuck because I can't see housing and none of my tools fit in there
I was able to use a 1/4" 10mm bit with long extension. You want to make sure you are seated on it square. You can also use a long 5mm Allen extension to get it aswell. You might need to rotate the crank to move your flex pipe out of the way too ever so slightly.
Is the oil pan painted inside on these please?:))🙏
Painted? No?
Thank you so much!
Some vehicle have their oil pan painted on the inside “don’t ask me why” :))
So in that case after using strong decarbonisation products you have to drop the pan and clean it manually.
No paint - no problem:))😉
Interesting!
Can you replace the actual pump portion of that assembly? Cannot find it anywhere.
Don't think the oil pump is available without buying the whole assembly. But ebay might have used parts of just the pump avaliable. Or grab a junk yard pump and remove it.
So did you remove the chain entirely? And do you have to put it back on first or?? I’m a bit confused. I’m installing a deleted Balance shaft assembly tomorrow and I’m wondering how to fit it all in nicely. Also plan on reusing my tensioner for the time being.
No you do not need to remove the chain off the crank sprocket. That would involve doing the timing belt. The chain rarely fails. If the tensioner looks okay I would send it, but definitely a part to replace while your there.
Isn’t there a timing process for the balance shaft?
At 8:30 I mention where to clock the balance shaft. Technically if you are keeping your balance shafts engaged, then you could top dead center the engine before removing the oil pump, but the chain of the crank is never removed, making it easier to time it all with just the one sprocket at 12'oclock.
I ended up purchasing the VIS balance shaft delete sprocket, but i like PB's idea of just cutting off the gear.
@@PBGarage Thank you, I scrolled back and forth and couldn’t find that bit.
Siiiiick!
barrrrf!!!!!
how to set the number 1 plug to balance the oil pump
There is an OT mark on the timing cover that the cam gear aligns to, while the piston 1 is at its top. Stick a longe screw driver in the spark plug bore to see where the piston is, but if the OT timing mark is aligned, you should be good. There are some videos out there that that show how.
Where'd you find a pump for $15?
Junk yard, have to pull it myself, but worth it in my opinion. Check mt other video of comparing options.
@@PBGarage How many miles did this B7 have on it?
Automatics and their extra lines eh. What a pain.
Next video, 1.8t swap!
So new motor you think?
@@jtlracer0707 nah we’ve just been bugging him to swap to a 1.8T and manual
Alright I followed this video and it was easy the only thing I’m having a problem with are the 2 bolts inside the bell housing the sub frame isn’t low enough for me to see in there and all I can think of using is a long ball ended Allen but I can’t even see them. What am I doing wrong!?!?
a long ball end allen will work, but easy to strip. I was able to use a short 1/4" 10mm with a wobble extension to get them off. With the sub frame loose, engine supported, you should be able to push/pull the subframe a bit to make some room.